Newsletter Latest Denim News & Updates from Across the Globe Your Window To The World Of Denim Global denim research findings revealed by Invista 21 May 2014 www.denimclubindia.org Innovative New Color Effects by Archroma at Denim by Premiere Vision Glut squeezes margins of denim manufacturers Designer Eco-friendly jeans Arvind Ltd Q4 net up 11.49% Blue Jeans Patented May 20, 1873 Events Show Preview : Denim by Premiere Vision, Spain Being Human Launches �Denim fever’ collection Pg No. 3 Denim Industry Who’s Who Mr. Rahul Mehta, CMAI, India Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Mafatlal Industries Ltd., India Re le as in g in Ju ly, 20 14 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Collection Being Human Launches �Denim fever’ collection For summer 2014, Being Human Clothing introduces Denim Fever - the biggest trend of the season, the range includes ultra-soft washed denim shirts in light weight fabrics and light jeans, to beat the heat in style. Leaving behind winter’s dominating dark hues; this season denim is dominating like never before. The �blue deeper than indigo’ collection of denim wear range by Being Human Clothing is available in multiple wash options and designs. The collection also includes shirts in every shade of blue, roll up sleeves shirt, t-shirts with denim detailing, printed shorts and much more and feeds every need for summery denim look. Jeans for men and women is one of Being Human Clothing’s most loved products and this season it is available in completely washed out and distressed versions to crisp raw wash options; there is something for everyone with multiple fit options. Image Source: Beinghuman.com Ditch the dark hues for the light shades of denims this summer and if dark is the choice one can still indulge in some extravagant options at Being Human Clothing. Team up the stylish and new “boyfriend fit” denims with a cool pin-stripped shirt to have the spring days covered. And don’t forget to roll up the legs; just to add some nonchalance. The collection can be styled in any look one prefers! From denim on denim to a humble t-shirt inside the denim shirt, one can experiment this trendy fabric with any style one likes. Sport a formal look or head out for an evening of fun, or just have a relaxed sunny day. Keep it clean with a pair of undamaged dark jeans for Fridays at work or an evening soiree. The Spring Summer 14 collection has got the denim wardrobe covered this season. Source: Fibre2fashion.com Website : www.beinghumanclothing.com Image Source: Beinghuman.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 03 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Research Global denim research findings revealed by Invista INVISTA unveiled a summary of the results from its Global Men’s Denim Study at the first European Kingpins Show held at Amsterdam last week. The study covered consumer insights from over 3,000 male participants in Germany, Italy, India, China, the U.S. and Brazil and was conducted by ICM Research out of the U.K. The study was designed to better understand men’s purchase preferences related to denim and covered topics such as the key attributes men look for in jeans, how satisfied they are with current offerings, and where they get information about jeans. Top line results showed that the two most important attributes that men were seeking were �fit’ and �comfort’, yet 30% of participants felt current jeans offerings did not fully meet their expectations in these two areas. In the area of thermal comfort, over 80% of participants said they would be interested in jeans that would help them stay cool and dry in the summer or warm and dry in the winter. Yet less than 35% of participants felt current consumer selections addressed these needs. Out of a variety of commercial fabric brand names, the most preferred for a summer jean concept was the COOLMAX brand while the most preferred for the warm and dry concept was the THERMOLITE brand. As per Jean Hegedus, INVISTA’s Global Denim Segment Director, the results reflect the consumer’s desire for performance clothing that can meet a variety of needs. “Today’s time starved consumers want garments that can simplify their lives and allow them to look good and feel comfortable under different circumstances,” Hegedus said. “Offerings like COOLMAX and THERMOLITE fabrics can help brands and retailers achieve this goal.” Reflecting a consumer shift from traditional to social channels of commerce, the survey showed that across all countries the internet was the most preferred source for information about jeans, followed by �friends.’ The results were presented by INVISTA at a seminar on May 7th at the first ever Kingpins Show in Europe. “This is the 29th Kingpins show INVISTA has sponsored and once again it has been a great success”, said Ebru Pirinccioglu, INVISTA Outerwear Marketing Segment Manager for EMEA. “Since the Dutch own more jeans per capita than people in any other country, Amsterdam provided us with the perfect location to showcase our innovations in denim, from our LYCRA dualFX technology for super-stretch garments that keep their shape, to thermal concepts such as our COOLMAX ALL SEASON and THERMOLITE technologies, and durable options such as TOUGH MAX LYCRA fabrics.” To highlight the benefits of its denim offerings, INVISTA commissioned a street dance team to perform in jeans made with their innovations during the Kingpins after-party. The high energy show was enthusiastically received by the crowd and highlighted the freedom of movement and other functional advantages that INVISTA fibres can bring to denim Source: Fibre2fashion.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 04 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Dyestuff - Sustainable Fashion Innovative New Color Effects by Archroma at Denim by Premiere Vision Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, and the former textile, paper and emulsions businesses of Clariant, is looking to secure a home-win at this year’s Denim by Premiere Vision (DPV) in Barcelona with its amazing new effects for jeans that stand-out from the crowd. Barcelona is home to Archroma’s Global Denim Center and On May 21-22, at Denim By PV, its specialists will share their extensive expertise in ever more sustainable denim dyeing and color management, with the denim community, retailers and brand owners. Visitors to Booth B03 can look forward to garment collections and prototypes highlighting the potential of Archroma’s new technologies for more sustainable and exciting fashion and results. Bring out the hidden color of your jeans: A capsule collection of jeans will capture a highlyinnovative new way for designers to play around with wash-down techniques to apply spectacular “local” effects and contrasts. The eye-catching results are achieved by combining Archroma’s new Optisul® C sulfur dyes – affinity-free sulfide-free dyes, suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval – with select Printofix® T pigments. Great casual collections made easy and sustainably: A collection of Chinos with high versatility in wash-down effects. Optisul® C dyes allow easier application than current techniques. Their use in a Pad-Dry/Pad-Dry process makes woven fabric dyeing with almost zero water consumption a real possibility. New way to color finishes: With Optisul® C liquid dyes, Archroma presents a new option to combine resins and dyes to create touches and finishes without compromising the casual final look. This new alternative for coloring finishings is especially suitable for “local” chemical washdowns allowing to create more natural look than conventional pigment coloring. Blue garment collection alternative to indigo: Manufactured with eco-conscious ADVANCED DENIM technology and its Diresul® RDT Indicolors specialties. Yarn dyeing using Archroma’s ADVANCED DENIM technology helps adding to the desired “sustainable touch” with unlimited tones and shades. ADVANCED DENIM enables water consumption to be reduced by up to 92%, up to 87% of the usual cotton waste can be avoided, and up to 30% can be saved in energy costs compared to traditional denim processes. As ADVANCED DENIM technologies are being adopted by more and more denim mills around the globe, visitors will be able to see denim articles made using the technology at booths of important exhibitors at the show. May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 05 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Industry - Outlook Orchid tones: With its team of color management specialists Archroma is at the forefront of supporting customers in choosing the best technical recipe and process for denim, woven and garment dyeing for collections based on this year’s color trend. Archroma helps customers turn technology into benefits that can be seen and felt. Sustainability calculator: Visitors will be able to evaluate the potential savings of ADVANCED DENIM using Archroma’s ONE WAY system. ONE WAY is a 3-step systematic approach to the selection of chemicals and production processes. ONE WAY was honored with the prestigious ICIS Innovation Award for Best Business Innovation 2013, and the effectiveness of its sustainability calculation system was confirmed in physical tests carried out by leading machine builder Fong’s. Nuria Estape, Project Manager for ADVANCED DENIM at Archroma, comments: “Archroma’s technologies aim at helping customers to take not only their creativity but also their environmental responsibility to new levels. With more than 2 billion pairs of jeans made every year all over the world, there is room to create with ADVANCED DENIM a much more sustainable denim industry! With the wide palette of tones and looks achievable through ADVANCED DENIM, we truly honor our slogan at the show: “We touch and color people’s lives every day, everywhere”. Source: Archroma.com Glut squeezes margins of denim manufacturers The glut in the denim industry has been aggravated by continued addition of capacity. The oversupply has not only exerted price pressure on denim mills but also forced some of them to reduce capacity utilisation by 20-30 per cent. Against a capacity of 1.3 billion metres, the domestic demand for denim is estimated to be around 600-700 million metres, and another 200-300 million metres are exported. The denim industry was functioning at a capacity of close to 1 billion metres per annum around a year ago. However, existing as well as new players have continued to add capacities. According to industry players denim fabric prices recently fell by 5-7 per cent in certain categories. he Ahmedabad-based Aarvee Denims & Exports Ltd is now partly producing non-denim fabric. "Our denim capacity utilisation is 70 per cent now. There has been both price and margin pressure due to overcapacity. We are forced to produce 30 per cent non-denim fabric," said Ashish Shah, the company's managing director. Aarvee Denims, which has 85 million metres per annum denim capacity, recently reduced prices by 5-7 per cent in certain fabric types. "Though we have not reduced prices yet, rising input costs are exerting pressure. It is yet to be seen if the pressure from rising input costs will be borne by denim producers or consumers," says Deepak Chiripal, CEO of Nandan Denim Ltd. Nandan Denim is in the process of adding capacity. From 80 million metres now, the Rs 900-crore company's denim capacity will cross 100 million metres by 2015. Some companies have been able to insulate themselves from glut in the domestic market by focusing on exports. "Over 60 per cent of our denim business comes from exports. This has helped us maintain 100 per cent capacity utilisation," said Jayesh Shah, director and CFO of Arvind Ltd, which has denim capacity of over 110 million metres. Source : Business-standard.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 06 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Apparel - Collection Designer Eco-friendly jeans Jeans have always been a passion for Designer Shani Himanshu, creative director of indie label 11.11/eleven eleven. Having worked as a consultant with brands like Diesel, Levi’s and Gas Jeans, it was his experience that led him to create a collection of handmade denim. Created in association with Arvind Mills, the range is completely hand-crafted, uses very little electricity and reinforces his firm’s commitment to sustainable fashion. When Shani and design partner Mia Morikawa showcased this collection, “100% HANDMADE” at Lakme Fashion Week in March, the message was clear — wearing designer denim may be hip, but donning a pair of ecofriendly signature jeans is the epitome of cool. “We all wear denims. I think it’s good to wear something that’s has soul and character,” says Shani, of the unique line that celebrates the human touch, with its hand-spun yarn, handwoven textile and a hand-stitched final product. Veteran designer Rajesh Pratap Singh has been making denim for export for a few years now. He married his love for khadi with denim over two years ago, and introduced his first khadi denim line. What started as a partnership with Arvind Limited is today a dedicated collection, with Singh sourcing part of the raw material from Arvind and spinning, weaving and dyeing the rest at his weaving centre in Neemrana, Rajasthan. “For us, it’s not just another fashion product. Khadi is an individualist fabric with a lot of history, a textile that is eco-friendly and innately Indian. And with this handmade, nomachine intervention line of jeans, we are creating a pure Indian product,” says Singh. Singh and 11.11/eleven eleven participated in a fashion show in April, titled �Denim India Made’, organised by the Denim Manufacturer’s Association. The primary focus was on authentic khadi denim. “India has been manufacturing denim for companies all over the world, according to their specifications and needs, with nothing intrinsically Indian in the final product. Just as how Japanese, Italian and American denim have unique identities, we want to make something which is originally from India,” says Rajesh Gupta, creative head, Arvind Limited, denim division. Arvind is engaging with families of craftspeople who specialise in spinning, dyeing and weaving techniques with the support of the Khadi Board and its many institutions. With minimal utilisation of power in the ginning process and fewer pollutants released thanks to the natural indigo dyeing process, the final product is extremely environment-friendly. While khadi denim has found both creative and commercial clout, individual efforts like that of designer Deepika Govind are adding momentum to the cause. Govind launched her line of organic jeans “Denim Green” in 2012, after nearly four years of research and development. The range of handwoven denim, dyed in pure indigo, remains her pet project and a testament to her commitment to all things natural. “It was during a stint at a huge denim manufacturing unit in Bangalore that I noticed that nearly 20 to 25 litres of water were wasted per pair from the beginning of the process till it reached the shelves,” says Govind. She chose to May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 07 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Industry - Corporate source organic cotton, use plant-based dyes, eliminate the acid wash and weave her fabric on the handloom. Today, Denim Green sells in classic fits, comes with tea tree aroma wash, anti-bacterial wash and even retails with pure silver buttons. Designer Samant Chauhan who, worked on a pilot handloom denim line with the Ministry of Textile and the Denim Club, is looking to launch his own collection. “The handmade ideology resonates with our brand philosophy because handloom fabric has a very unique character,” says Chauhan. Like him, there are many who are discovering romance in the variable warp and weft of handspun denim. “There are effects built into the fabric with loom stop marks and high and low of fabric. These features only add to the texture of the denim,” says Gupta. And it’s these imperfections that Shani is counting on to lend individuality to his product. Each 100% HANDMADE khadi denim is handstitched and realised by one craftsperson, who autographs the finished garment and adds a serial number. This kind of labour intensiveness that adds to the price of the product and nudges it into the premium segment. “Apart from labour involved, there is a lot of expenditure that goes into research and development. This time and money could be earned back if there was a mass movement and costs could be controlled,” says Govind. And while the numbers might not add up yet — Arvind Limited manufactures nearly 9 million metres of regular denim per month, in comparison to just 3,000 metres of khadi denim — this does not deter Shani and Morikawa, who are experimenting with extra weft techniques and are working on making khadi denim from organic Kala Cotton. Singh is set to launch his 2014 edition of khadi denim in June. Source: Indianexpress.com Arvind Ltd Q4 net up 11.49% Arvind, with its buoyant portfolio of brands, has witnessed positive growth and reported a 11.49 percent rise in its standalone net profit for the fourth quarter ended March 31, 2014. The Q4 standalone net profit for the fiscal year 2013-14 rose to Rs 94.89 crores, up from Rs 85.11 crores for the corresponding period last fiscal 2012-13. Ahmedabad based Arvind is one of the largest integrated textile and branded apparel players in the country. The company also registered a 6.5 percent increase in its standalone revenue for the fourth quarter at Rs 1,283.96 crores, viz a viz last year’s Rs 1,205.36 crores. On consolidated basis, while its Q4 net profit rose by 24.09 percent at Rs 94.05 crores, up from Rs 75.79 crores, its consolidated net income registered a 5.90 percent increase at Rs 1,879.08 crores as against last year’s Rs 1,774.28 crores for the said period. The board of directors have also recommended a dividend of 23.5 percent for fiscal 2013-14 as against 16.5 percent for the previous year. The company witnessed a 38.34 percent and 26.32 percent growth in its yearly standalone net profit and net revenue at Rs 361.39 crores and Rs 4,775.48 crores, respectively which was Rs 261.22 crores and Rs 3,780.29 crores, respectively for the fiscal 2012-13. Meanwhile, on consolidated basis, the yearly net profit of Rs 353.89 crores was up by 42.46 percent for FY ’14 as against Rs 248.41 crores. The company’s revenues grew by 29.65 percent at Rs 6,862.12 crores as compared to Rs 5,292.52 crores. After acquiring a 49 percent stake in Calvin Klein from PVH, denim fabric maker Arvind is all set to become a billion dollars company. While on one hand, it would help Arvind scale up its branding business, on the other, it would also assist in executing the long term strategy. The company has presence in 671 retail stores, 656 departmental store counters and 1,500 multi-brand outlets, coupled with its presence across price points and categories, which are expected to give a considerable boost to its sales in the next few quarters Source: Authintmail.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 08 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim From The Denim Directory Denim Industry Who's Who Mr. Rahul Mehta, President CMAI, India Having passed his MBA from one of the most prestigious Management Schools of India, the Bajaj Institute in 1971, he joined what was then called Goodlass Nerolac Paints, and rose rapidly to be the India Sales Manager by 1982 – when the Entrepreneurial bug bit him. Mr. Mehta joined the Creative Group as Partner and Managing Director in 1982, and launched the UFO Jeans – perhaps one of the earliest International Brands to come to India. Today, he oversees most of the Domestic Business of the Group, such as 109F, Fusion Beats, Portico, etc. He is acknowledged as one of the leaders of the Domestic Garment Industry, and is currently the President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), Chairman of the Japan India Fashion Trade Forum, Director of International Apparel Federation, Member, Textile Committee, Govt. of India, and member of the Managing Committee of the Apparel Export Promotion Council. He is extremely involved in Education, is Chairman, Advisory Board, School of Fashion Technology, Pune, Vice Chairman, Institute of Apparel Management, Delhi, and on the Board of B. D. Somani Institute of Fashion. Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director & CEO Mafatlal Industries Ltd., India Mr. Rajiv Dayal is a Chemical Engineer from Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi. He has a total work experience of 35 years and prior to joining the Arvind Mafatlal Group; he worked with Hindustan Lever Ltd., a subsidiary of Unilever plc, for 14 years and with Arvind Mills Limited for 6 years. Mr. Dayal has a wide cross-functional experience and has worked in various capacities in manufacturing, product development, projects and factory operations with HLL. He had joined Arvind International (a part of the Arvind Mills Limited) in 1992 as Vice President. Subsequently he headed the International Marketing division and became the Regional Director of their Hong Kong operations. Mr. Dayal joined the Arvind Mafatlal Group in 1998 as the Chief Executive Officer of Mafatlal Burlington Industries Ltd and subsequently was appointed as Managing Director & Chief Executive Officer of Mafatlal Denim in April, 2006. Mr. Rajiv Dayal was appointed as the Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer of Mafatlal Industries in May 2013. May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 09 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Events Show Preview : Denim by Premiere Vision, Spain The 14th edition of the leading show in the upstream jeans sector, Denim by Première Vision, is brimming with change. Launched in Paris in 2007, the show has become the can’t-miss meeting place for the denim community. Always taking the initiative, faithful to its original concept, the show settles into Barcelona as of this season, affirming its role as an engine for change. The venue for the show being held on May 21 and 22, 2014, is Hall 8 of the Fira Montjuic, in the heart of the Catalan capital. Denim by Première Vision aims to create an international platform for an international industry, and address the needs of premium denim, in search for more elaborate and sophisticated products. The 14th edition of the show welcomes some 100 professional exhibitors, both loyal and newcomers: Weavers (45%), manufacturers/ launderers / finishers (23%), accessory makers (22%), machine makers, fibre producers and spinners, and technology developers. Know-how, technologies and developments from 20 producing and manufacturing countries with high added-value numbering among the leaders in the jeans industry - from the Euromed zone - Turkey (31% of exhibitors), Italy (20%), Morocco (9%) and Tunisia (3%) - to Japan, India, Pakistan, Hong Kong and Brazil. The Denim Trends Area : revealing the secrets of an enigmatic autumn winter 2015-16 season In a secret, enigmatic and playful atmosphere, infiltrate a season rich in creativity, inspiration and innovation. Discover exclusive fashion information spaces, and join the game of directions for autumn winter 2015 -16 at the Denim Trends Area. The four stand-out players and guides will help in the discovery of the season: Ÿ The High Roller - made of softly washed out wool and corduroy, of broken twill and blurred effects, of knits and backs with a brushed fleece aspect, all played in softness and suppleness. Ÿ The Expert bets skilfully blue variations, for outsized clothing in barely washed raws, in blue/black twills, in recoloured selvedges. Ÿ The Provocateur - disguised weaves, secret pockets and hide-and-seek trims. Plays with pretence, double faces marked by lasers or ice, and experiments with almost seedy-looking greasy coatings. Ÿ The Nimble One plays with the light of compact and dazzling fabrics, sometimes glazed, plasticized or lacquered. Plays tricks with open diagonals, sculpting and virtuously comfortable stretch, for slim and close to the body fits, accessorised with diamondlike metallic points and glints. Truth & Light by Jeanologia The Truth & Light show highlights the new environmentally-friendly laser-technologies for fabrics. The space is specially designed and outfitted to present, on one side, reality, the TRUTH, with its vintage pieces naturally workedon and worn out by time, and on the other side, the LIGHT, the laser, a real «time machine allowing for impressive results with a hitherto unparalleled vintage appearance. Royolution – The Denim Revolution Spanish weaver TEJIDOS ROYO, has collaborated with the IED University of Barcelona (European Institute of Design) for an exhibition of iconic pieces from denim history, revisited by students and created using fabric provided by Royo. A multidisciplinary exhibition that called on the fashion, products, decoration and visual communications departments of the IED, and the five finalist pieces from the project will be presented at the show. Source: Denimbypremierevision.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 10 Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim Industry - Historical Event Blue Jeans Patented May 20, 1873 An icon American fashion was patented on May 20, 1873, when the United States Patent and Trademark Office issued U.S. Patent No. 139,121, titled Fastening Pocket-Openings. The ’121 patent, which was granted to Jacob W. Davis and jointly assigned to himself and to Levi Strauss & Company, ushered in the era of denim blue jeans. The ’121 patent specifically related to copper rivet fasteners for denim trousers, which proved to be extremely desirable and durable. Davis, a tailor by training, revolutionized fashion after being asked by a customer if he could create a durable pair of trousers for her husband, who was a woodcutter. When Davis created these pants he used the now familiar copper rivet fasteners. Davis charged $3 for that first pair of jeans in 1870. See Your Denim Jeans Are a Nevada Invention. The patent, which included only a single photograph and text not even amounting to a full page, described the invention as below: “ [The] invention relates to a fastening for pocket-openings, whereby the sewed seams are prevented from ripping or starting from frequent pressure or strain thereon; and it consists in the employment of a metal rivet or eyelet at each edge of the pocket-opening, to prevent the ripping of the seam at those points. The rivet or eyelet is so fastened in the seam as to bind the two parts of cloth which the seam unites together, so that it shall prevent the strain or pressure from coming upon the thread with which the seam is sewed. Jacob further described the invention narrowly with an eye toward known prior art, saying: “ I am aware that rivets have been used for securing seams in shoes, as shown in the patents to Geo. Houghton, No. 64,015, April 23, 1867, and to L.K. Washburn, No. 123, 313, January 30, 1872; and hence I do not claim broadly, fastening of seams by means of rivets. Having thus described my invention what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is— As a new article of manufacture, a pair of pantaloous having the pocket-openings secured at each edge by means of rivets, substantially in the manner described and shown, whereby the seams at the points named are prevented from ripping, as set forth. “ The durable patents with the rivets turned out to be extremely popular, with more and more customers asking for Davis to make them a pair of the rivet clad durable pants. It was at this point that David thought that he was on to something big, which lead him to want to patent what he had invented. In order to accomplish this he approached Levi Strauss and ask him to partner with him. Strauss agreed and paid the patent fees. See Jacob Davis and the Copper-riveted Jeans. Source: Ipwatchdog.com May 2014 DENIM CLUB INDIA 11 “ Lectra, a French Société Anonyme with capital of €28,918,680 - RCS Paris B 300 702 305 - Registered office: 16-18 Chalgrin – 75016 Paris – France Tel: + 33(0) 1 53 64 42 00 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 53 64 43 00 / ® Vector is a registered trademark of Lectra / Graphic Design by BUG Agency / photos Getty Images
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