CARING FOR YOUR RABBIT
Basic tips and information
Your Rabbit was born on 15th November 2011 to a Male Angora X Rabbit called Piglet and a Female Silver Martin/Dwarf X
Rabbit called Pepper. Pepper and Piglet were rescued from a garden were they were being neglected and hurt.
Diet/Food: Rabbits tummy’s can be easily upset and this can cause major health problems from fatal blockages, diarrhea,
urinary tract infections and urine sludge. Keeping your Rabbits diet consistent and balanced can help prevent all of these
conditions. The correct food is also important for maintaining good healthy teeth. Your Rabbit has been raised on a Diet of
Hay, Pellets and fresh vegetables and fruit.
Always have a reliable source of fresh cool drinking water available for your Rabbit.
Sudden changes to their diet can be fatal, always introduce new foods slowly and one at a time (per 2-3 days) See below
for current food list.
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HAY – Essential to the Rabbits diet and should make up approx 80% of its daily feed
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Hay helps to keep the teeth from over growing and becoming crooked, ingrown, misaligned or spurred.
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Hay also helps to maintain a healthy digestive tract and provides essential fibre.
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Rabbits like to chew whilst they poo so placing some hay in a box when they are playing freely indoors will
help to reinforce good litter habits.
PELLETS- Plain is best, do not feed fancy pellets with extra grains and fruit, these are fattening and do not have the
right levels of proteins, salts and enzymes.
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Peters Pellets are the ones that your Rabbit has been raised on, these are highly recommended for house
Rabbits, they do not contain extra treats that can cause gastric problems or weight gain. Peters Pellets can
be purchased in the Pet Food aisle of Coles Supermarkets (near the birdseed)
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Changing brands suddenly can make your Rabbit very sick. If you must change brands do so by adding a
small amount of the new pellets each day and increasing the new and decreasing the old over a 3 – 4 week
period.
VEG and FRUIT –A regular supply of fresh greens is vital to keep your Rabbit healthy. They provide additional fluid
for hydration, important fibre for digestion and many vitamins and minerals for good health.
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NEVER FEED YOUR RABBIT ice berg lettuce, potato (skins, plant parts or flesh), tomato leaves or stems.
See attached Poisonous Plant List.
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Carrots are a treat like candy and should only be fed in small amounts, same with apple, strawberries and
banana.
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Your Rabbit has had twice daily bundles of Fresh basil, parsley, broccoli leaves and stems, nasturtium leaves
and flower (NOT SEEDS), Fennel/dill, grass, peppermint, celery leaves and stems and kale(kale only 2-3
times per week) There are many other vegetables that they can eat but introduce them to their diet slowly
only one new thing at a time on a day.
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NEVER FEED YOUR RABBIT Mouldy, wilted, decaying or fermented hay, fruit or veg. It will cause stomach
problems that will kill them.
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Environment and well being
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HOUSING – Previously Rabbits were expected to live in outdoor hutches rather than come inside and be part of
the family. These days people have realized that Rabbits are excellent as indoor pets. Easily litter trained, they
are affectionate, inquisitive, intelligent and entertaining animal companions. Rabbits are susceptible to heat and
will die if not kept out of harsh sunlight and kept cool during the Summer months. Indoors; fans, air conditioning
or evaporative coolers can help keep your Rabbit cool. Also freeze some plastic 1.25 litre bottles of water and
place them in the hutch. Your Rabbit will love resting against it in the hot weather. If your Rabbit is outside
ensure it is in the shade and out of any direct sunlight and heat and that several fresh icepacks are placed in the
hutch to help keep them cool. (Check and replace the icepacks regularly). In Winter ensure they have shelter
from the rain and wind, warm bedding in their sleeping box and a ventilated cover for areas where the weather
is particularly cold or inclement.
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The Hutch, Still popular the hutch is the most common form of housing in Australia. Rabbits do need room
to move so it needs to be large enough for your Rabbit to move freely in all directions and also stand
upright. If your Rabbit’s ears touch the roof when he is sitting the hutch is too low. If you Rabbit cannot
turn around freely then the hutch is too small.
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NIC Cubes, Currently the most popular form of enclosure for indoor House Rabbits. NIC cubes are a
modular wire mesh cube. They can be locked together in a variety of shapes sizes and levels. Always ensure
that you place grass mats, willow mats or board over exposed wire floor as constantly moving over an
exposed wire mesh will result in painful hocks and cause long term damage to your Rabbits feet. (Available
from Ikea and Bunnings)
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Cages, Basically the same requirement as the hutch. Cages usually have wire bases so once again you will
need to place something in the cage to provided a soft flat surface to give your Rabbits feet some rest and
protection from the wire.
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House/Free Access, This is great if you have no other predatory pets also if you live in an apartment or
small unit. You will however need to Rabbit proof your home.
Rule 1 – Bunnies Like to Chew !!
Rule 2 – If you don’t want it chewed your Bunny will chew it !!
You will need to ensure all electrical cables are protected with cable sleeves (Curly things that easily wrap
around or clip over the cords). Your Rabbit can be diverted from chewing furniture by providing them with
toys such as chew blocks, toilet rolls stuffed with hay, balls made from willow or straw. Toss toys made from
sisal or wood.
Bunnies love to play so the big bonus in having them inside is you don’t miss a minute of the action. They
will binky and run to their hearts content then flop and snuggle up with you on the lounge when they have
worn themselves out.
“What is a binky” I hear you ask. A binky is an
expression of joy! Your Rabbit when happy will run all over his play area and at times leap into the air
kicking his back feet out or sideways.
The flop, suddenly dropping onto their side, tummy or back with their feet out. This Flop is the sign of
complete relaxation. It means “I am confident and happy in my surroundings”.
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HEALTH AND MEDICAL
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Vaccinations The two main diseases threatening domestic Rabbits in Australia are the Calicivirus and Mixomatosis.
There is a vaccine for the Calicivirus and it is essential that all outdoor Rabbits are vaccinated from an early age,
every few weeks as kits then annually as adults. The vaccine for Mixomatosis is not available in Australia.
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Fleas - Yes, Rabbits can and do get fleas. Most readily available Flea control products will kill a Rabbit. Revolution
(Puppy and Kitten under 4kg) and Advantage have been found safe. A single ampule will last several treatments.
Though these products are readily available and it is recommended that you check with your vet for the correct
dosage x weight for your pet.
My Rabbits receive a single drop to the back of their neck each month. This also protects the babies whilst they are still taking milk
from their mother. Once they are weaned they will need to be treated individually.
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Worms – Rabbits are prey to intestinal worms just like cats and dogs, the flea treatment Revolution will also protect
against intestinal worms and mites. If you are not using Revolution you will need to consult with your vet for an
appropriate Rabbit safe worming treatment.
Fleas and Mosquitoes are a considerable threat to your Rabbits health as they can carry the Calici and Mixoma virus.
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Desexing – But I’ve only got one Rabbit !! Well, here are some good reasons to consider when deciding if your
Rabbit needs to be desexed.
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Rabbits are territorial, territorial Rabbits spray (Mark their territory with poo and urine) Boy Bunnies are
very good at getting their urine to new and unprecedented heights and distances.
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Male Rabbits are much happier when they have been fixed and you will be able to bring them indoors
without worrying about nasty smells or bad behavior. Plus if you do decide to extend your Rabbit family
later you won’t need to worry about any furry little surprises coming along.
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Female Rabbits will also spray and poop territorially if they so desire and they can become aggressive.
Additionally un desexed female Rabbits run a very high risk of Uterine Cancer.
So get your Rabbit spayed or neutered regardless. You will both be happier for it and you won’t have to worry
about unwanted litters, bad behavior, aggression or fighting if you do decide to get another Rabbit.
Your vet will desex your Male Rabbit from 3 months old and your female Rabbit from 4 months old.
BE WARNED: Male Rabbits can remain fertile up to one month after sterilization. If
you are thinking of a second Rabbit and think you can leave it till the last minute
to get your Rabbit fixed,
THINK AGAIN !!!!!!
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Pooping/Urinating – If your Rabbit has stopped pooping, urinating or eating GET THEM TO A VET IMMEDIATELY.
There is a serious problem…..
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If your Rabbit is urinating frequently and only small amounts they may have a Urinary tract Infection or
some sort of blockage. This situation also requires prompt attention from your vet but may be fixed with
antibiotics.
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Your litter trained Rabbit has suddenly started pooping every where but the litter box. It could be stress
related or an act of reclaiming territory. Have you recently added another pet to the household? How old is
your Rabbit, they may be growing up and this is a short phase, regular litter habits will have to be
reinforced whilst they go through this period of adolescence.
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Your Rabbits urine is chalky.. Well that’s normal
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Your Rabbits urine is thick and sticky…. That’s’ not normal, get to your vet immediately
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Your Rabbit has stopped eating…. Get them to the vet immediately
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Pain – Your Rabbit is huddled into itself and is grinding it teeth. This means your rabbit is in pain and needs urgent
medical attention.
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Quivering and Panting- This can indicate a number of things, here in Western Australia heat stroke would be the
first concern, next is intense pain or shock. No matter which is the cause this also requires immediate veterinary
attention. Keep them calm and comfortable and try to get them to the vet as soon as physically possible.
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Bloating – Rabbits cannot burp, fart or vomit – This is why you DO NOT Fast a rabbit before surgery. Watch them
closely and if they have stopped eating, drinking, urinating or pooping get them to a vet. For temporary relief a
little fresh mint may give them some comfort whilst waiting for treatment.
COMMUNICATION
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Stomping or Thumping - I sense danger heads up everyone/ you are pissing me off, stop it now and go away.
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Grunting and Charging- I am not a happy camper, if you continue to bother me I will nip you, if you still don’t leave
me alone I will bite you!!!!
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Hopping in a circle around your feet – I really like you, in fact I think I’m in love… I might hump your shoe.
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Squealing or crying – I AM IN PAIN OR EXTREME DANGER, HELP ME!!!!
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Head Bumping/Nuzzling- I want pets and cuddles and I want them now.
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OTHER HELPFUL INFORMATION AND LINKS
Excellent site with a variety of Info
http://www.rabbit.org/care/new-bunny-index.html
Rabbit Specialists (has an extremely good reputation)
Landsdale Animal Hospital
10 Madeley St, Landsdale Western Australia 6065
(08) 9342 8822
The Rabbit Shop AND Medical Centre
Unit 10, 20 Sheilds Cres
Booragoon 6154
Telephone: (08) 9317 6615
Dr. Elizabeth-Jo Vickridge
Fax: (08) 9329 9200
E-mail: [email protected]
Basic Rabbit Treatments (were excellent when I had Piglet de-sexed)
Vetwest Animal Hospital
Corner Wanneroo and San Rosa Road, Wanneroo WA 6065
(08) 9404 1174 · vetwest.com.au
Advertise that they treat small animals and exotics
Joondalup Central Veterinary Hospital
2/1 Winton Road, Joondalup WA 6027
(08) 9300 2322 · joondalupvet.com.au
This is a good one regarding hot weather. This is going to be your main concern at first, they don't mind the cold but do like
a nice warm sleeping box to keep them out of drafts and bad weather.
My neighbour actually puts her outdoor rabbits into their pet carriers on the really hot days and brings them inside in the
air conditioning.
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/warm-weather.html
But frankly and indoor Rabbit is much happier as they can be bored and lonely if left in an outside hutch.
More Links
http://picapetkirrawee.com.au/SutherlandSydneyPets/pets/rabbit-hutch-and-run/
http://www.rspcansw.org.au/education/pet_care/pocket_pet_care/rabbits
http://www.mypets.net.au/flex/rabbits/1000053/1
http://www.bunspace.com/
http://www.binkybunny.com/
http://members.iinet.net.au/~rabbit/hrs3.htm
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/so-you-want-a-pet-rabbit-supplies-youll-need.html
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