Celebrating mid summer in the Wachau

July 2012
Celebrating mid summer in
the Wachau
river before a couple of us pointed out the mistake and we
did a u-turn. But we had some wine and crackers on the
bus and still arrived at the ship with time to spare.
Wikipedia describes it thus: In Austria the
midsummer solstice is celebrated each year with a
spectacular procession of ships down the Danube
River as it flows through the wine-growing Wachau
Valley just north of Vienna. Up to 30 ships sail down
the river in line as fireworks erupt from the banks
and hill tops while bonfires blaze and the vineyards
are lit up. Lighted castle ruins also erupt with
fireworks during the 90-minute cruise downstream.
With perfect weather and a great bunch of people, so it
was again this year. Fifty OzCon members and friends
boarded the Kaiserin Elisabeth II at Dürnstein for the
night’s adventure.
Those who chose to travel by chartered bus from Vienna
had their own little adventure when the driver took a
wrong turn and we ended up on the wrong side of the
Page 1
After a meal (the Sissi salad was popular) and drinks,
people made their way to the upper deck and bar, and
watched the countryside slip by as the ship joined a line
of vessels making their way up river to Spitz. It was here
that the ships gathered, holding a position in the fastflowing river while
others arrived.
As it grew dark the
first bonfires were
lit on the hill tops
and river banks, and
the
fireworks
started
crackling
overhead. A castle
and the vineyards
on the terraced hills
became a blaze of lights as the ships, with horns
sounding, turned and for the next 90 minutes sailed down
river beneath the fireworks to Dürnstein.
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
Hooters, sirens, fireworks and a
pagan atmosphere
By Colin Higgins
Our vessel the Kaiserin Elisabeth II held station off the
historic town of Spitz and the spectacular
Tausendeimerberg hill named for its
ability to yield 1000 buckets of grapes
in a good vintage.
The surrounding hills create a natural
amphitheatre to make sure that the flat
crack of the fireworks from all sides
gained full effect. The activities
focussed on the Tausendeimerberg with
the huge bonfire atop providing the pagan atmosphere and
neatly contrasting the large cross standing alongside it.
Lanterns were lit in many of the vineyards and the spread
of lanterns across the Tausendeimerberg was fascinating
to watch as we sipped our after dinner drinks on the top
deck.
And so it was
over
for
another year
and back on
the bus with
some
more
wine for the
return
to
Vienna. Our
thanks
to
Colin Higgins
and Rob Reed
for pulling it all together. Colin arranged the bookings
and the hire of the bus while Rob did a great job keeping
track of the payments which were needed well before the
event.
Also highlighted by lanterns was the gate in the medieval
town wall where the Swedish besiegers in the thirty years
war (1618-1648) slaughtered many of the townsfolk. The
gate is known as Rotes Tor (Red Gate) as it ran red with
blood and is now a gateway to many wonderful and
recommended springtime hikes. Across to the left, and
brought to our attention by a garland of lanterns, was the
Spitz Castle whilst to the right a burning cross adorned
the slope above
yet more lantern
bejewelled
vineyards.
Further fires lit
the southern bank
of the Danube to
surround
our
flotilla as the
firework
crescendo gradually built. Eventually after an almost
firework battle between the northern and southern shores
(won narrowly by the South we felt), it was time for the
little ships to be swept back down the river to Dürnstein
with hooters and sirens sounding.
Once again the crescendo of fireworks continued over and
around the Kaiserin Elisabeth until we landed and were
treated to a further firework send off from Dürnstein
itself.
Rest-assured OzCon will do it again next year and will be
making a block booking soon. - Brett
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All of this begs the question - Is it too late for us to start a
Summer Solstice celebration tradition in Australia?? Our
greatest national tradition is 'any excuse for a party and a
cracker show!!!!!' so it should fit rather well (apart from
the bushfire hazard).
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
From the President
Two articles caught my attention last month, and both had
the theme of pessimists – in Austria and in Australia.
Austrians love to grumble, while Australians are "grimly
determined to see our glass as half empty rather than half
full". I can relate to both.
The online BBC News Magazine set the balling rolling
with a column by its Vienna correspondent Bethany Bell
who wrote: “For a number of years Vienna has scored top
marks in international surveys for safety, cleanliness and
public services, but while many Viennese are fiercely
proud of their city, there is also an unexpectedly strong
tradition of discontent and complaint.’’
She gives several examples of this, like walking in the
Volksgarten in Spring after a storm had blown rose petals
to the ground. "Look," one said in strong Viennese
dialect, "Alles schon vorbei." "It is all over now." Her
companion sighed. "Ja, ja, leider." "Unfortunately."
“The Viennese tendency not to look on the bright side of
life still catches me by surprise,’’ Bell wrote. “Perhaps it
is a sign that I am still a foreigner - even after living here
for more than 10 years. To be discontented is, of course,
human - the motor, some would say, of progress.
“But in Vienna, many people seem to cultivate and even
wallow in their dissatisfaction. They have a special word
for it, "raunzen" - which roughly translates as to grumble,
moan or whinge. It is all the more remarkable to an
outsider - when you consider how good life is for most
people here - not just for the city's wealthy and middleclass, but for its poorer citizens as well.
“Vienna is one of the best-run cities I know. It is, in
comparison to many other European capitals, a safe place.
Most of my female friends think nothing of walking home
alone late at night. Decades of Socialist-led
administrations have brought in generous and affordable
housing and other public services.
“Turn on the tap, and you get mountain spring water,
piped in from the Alps. But to hear some Viennese, it
would be easy to come away with the impression that the
place is going steadily downhill. "Nix ist wie frueher,"
"Nothing's the way it used to be," is a constant refrain at
the sausage stands and bars.’’
In May the price of tickets for travelling on the public
transport system rose in some cases and fell markedly for
an annual ticket (see details on page 12).
Bell wrote that some Viennese are upset because the price
of individual journeys has now gone up. “Over the past
few weeks, I have been told time and again, that the
underground will now be insufferably crowded - and no
Page 3
one will ever get a seat on a tram again.’’
She speculates that if people live here all the time they
have nothing to compare it to and don’t know how good
they have it.
I believe the same can be said for Australians. While I
believe that per head of population Australians travel a lot
more than Austrians, those who don’t experience life
overseas tend to do exactly the same.
In Australia columnist Laurie Oakes pointed out that
Reserve Bank Governor Glenn Stevens put it eloquently
when he complained that economic discussion in this
country has "reached a rather curious position".
An objective observer arriving from overseas, according
to the governor, would feel that Australia's glass is at least
half full, but Australians themselves are "grimly
determined to see our glass as half empty". Mr Stevens
said: "Numerous foreign visitors to the Reserve Bank
have remarked on the surprising extent of this pessimism.
"Each time I travel abroad I am struck by the difference
between the perceptions held by foreigners about
Australia and what I read in the newspapers at home."
Treasurer Wayne Swan reflected the same frustration
when the latest National Accounts showed the economy
had grown by 1.3 % in the March quarter and a
remarkable 4.3 % over the year.
And while the international news channels from BBC
World, to CNN and Aljazeera all reported positively on
the strong Australian economy, Mr Swan was accused by
some sections of the media of "gloating".
Oakes wrote: “Even in the face of economic numbers that
other countries can only dream about in the current
climate, the "glass-half-empty" brigade was still out in
force.”
He said Mr Stevens referred to
gloomy" nature of public discussion
apparently unshiftable pessimism
Government getting any credit
management front.
the "unrelentingly
in Australia and an
that prevents the
on the economic
Oh well, one could say that’s politics. But it’s unusual to
find such pessimism in two countries where things are
actually going along rather well. Both economies are
doing well by comparison to many.
But I suspect it is more than that and I feel growing
pessimism for whatever reason, towards our leaders and
our lifestyles, is particularly changing the face of
Australia from what I knew not so many years ago.
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
Changes to OzCon Board
It is with regret that the Board announces the resignation
of Eden Sarelius as OzCon Secretary. Eden notified us of
his reisgnation a couple of weeks ago for personal
reasons. I am assured they have nothing to do with
OzCon, its board or
members.
Eden has played a major
role in OzCon in recent
years. He was a regular
helper behind the curtain
at UN Bazaars helping
the team decorate the
pavlovas. He was a
regular attendee at our
other events and a keen
organiser who earlier
this year drew up a calendar of events with names
assigned to organise those events, it often being his name.
He has been a strong advocate for us spending rather than
hoarding our funds in the bank and you can thank Eden
for the decision of the board to charter buses and
subsidise events more than we have in the past.
Our newer members are probably not aware that we
almost lost Eden when he had a major heart attack in June
2010. But he bounced back and agreed to become
Assistant Secretary in January 2011 and then Secretary in
February this year.
On behalf of all the board members, I say thank you Eden
and all the best for whatever the future holds for you.
And so the Board was left short and we considered our
options. It was decided not to retain the title of Secretary
which wrongly implied secretarial duties and keeping of
minutes.
Charlie Ps on Donaukanal
attracts a good crowd
The football was all around us on TV screens, but it
didn’t interfere with a pleasant evening at Charlie P’s at
Summerstage on Donaukanal. The weather was perfect
after some rather dull and wet days earlier.
There were a few cheers when France beat Ukraine but
otherwise it was the crowd around us who told us
something was happening.
Never knowing who will come along, Eden Sarelius
booked a table for 12 knowing that many of the regulars
from the Vienna International School would be attending
an end-of-year function. About 30 came and went and we
had to hassle the waiters to squeeze everyone in.
We welcomed some new members who were joining us
for the first time.
New members
John and Fran
Fran Wright and
partner Robert
Pobitschka
managed to find
us among the
throng as did
John Twining.
Ric Casagrande
who was at the
Lunch
Out
Instead, we have opted to appoint two new members to
the Board to share the workload with others, primarily in
helping organise events. I am pleased to announce at the
time of writing that one of those positions has been
accepted by Mark Webster who arrived in Vienna earlier
this year.
Mark is on leave from the
Department of Foreign
Affairs and Trade while his
wife Liz, also with DFAT,
occupies the position of
Consul at the embassy in
Vienna.
Not being sexist, I would
encourage a woman to put up her hand for the other
position.
Page 4
earlier introduced his wife Rebecca.
John, from Sydney, is here for just five months and his
wife will join him this month. He works at the IAEA
Terrestrial Environment Laboratory at Siebersdorf.
p.s. The fish and chips were pretty good.
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
Visiting Litomyšl and Padubice in
the Czech Republic
A traveller’s tale By George Park
There are more than 2000 castles and chateaux in the
Czech Republic which works out to more per square
kilometer than any other country in the world.
Many are only a few hours drive from Vienna, so if you
are an aficianado of such places, the Czech Republic has
much to offer. Our most recent Czech trip took us first to
Litomyŝl which is about
an hour and a half north
of Brno.
Robert, Charles and Pam were all smiles
Lyndy and Greg
Departing Australian Ambassador
The Australian community in Vienna farewelled
Ambassador Michael Potts and wife Lynda at a reception
at the embassy on 21 June. They were due to leave for
Wellington, NZ, on 2 July.
It's a small town with an
attractive
medieval
market square and an
impressive renaissance
chateau. The chateau-which is a UNESCO
world heritage site -- was
constructed in the 1560's
and 70's by Italian
builders and is well
worth a visit. To visit the
castle one has to take a
guided tour which is in Czech, but there is a hand out in
English. One of the highlights is a small theater complete
with original sets.
Litomyŝl is also the birthplace of the Czech composer
Bedřich Smetana (1824-1884) and the town hosts an
annual international music festival from mid June into
August to commemorate the composer, including
performances of his works. Many of the performances
take place in the interior courtyard of the castle.
Although one could do this excursion in one long day, we
opted to stay the night. This gave us the opportunity to
visit another town with a medieval square, namely
Padubice, before driving back to Vienna the next day.
Pardubice--about an hour's drive west of Litomyŝl--has a
small but very delightful medieval square.
Mr and Mrs Potts arrived in Vienna in August 2009.
The new Ambassador to Austria, the five other countries
-- Kosovo, Ukraine, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Slovenia
and Slovakia -- and the various international
organisations headquartered in Vienna for which he is
accredited, is known.
However, at the time of writing he cannot be named
because the formal processes had not been completed. He
is due to arrive in Vienna on 10 September.
The square--which in this case really is in the shape of a
square--is lined with renaissance buildings together with a
Page 5
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
neo-renaissance town hall.
One of the buildings has an 18th century facade with a
stucco relief of Jonah being swallowed by a whale. The
square is lined with cafes and bars, making it a good place
for a coffee or lunch stop. We only stopped for coffee, but
we could easily have stayed for lunch. One option would
have been a Czech pizza. We counted at least three
pizzerias around the small square.
A farewell and a hello at
MAK Lunch Out
The timing was good because it was one of those
beautiful warm days before Vienna experienced a week of
cloudy days with thundery rain.
Seven of us had lunch outdoors at the MAK Museum café
near Stadtpark. We sat there so long that the waiters left
and we had no option but to pay with a credit card, which
is the opposite to the norm of cash only in Vienna.
newsletter, Jeanette has been a big contributor to OzCon
during her years in Vienna and we are sorry to see her go.
Jacquie Punzengruber will take on the task of organising
future Lunch Outs following Jeanette’s departure. Being
summer with many people away, there will not be a
Lunch Out this month.
It is always nice to see new faces and this time it was Ric
Casagrande who is in Vienna accompanying his wife
Rebecca Lewis who has just started in the IAEA, Office
of Legal Adviser. Rebecca has come from the Department
of Foreign Affairs and Trade in Canberra and is currently
on leave from her department.
Ric is also a lawyer having been in private practice in the
Hunter Valley and a permanent RAAF Legal Officer for
25 years. He is still a Group Captain on the RAAF active
Reserve and is also on leave from the Australian Federal
Police where he was the Chief Lawyer.
His last job in the permanent RAAF was as the Defence
Attaché in Rome between 2005-2008, covering Italy,
Greece, Turkey, Israel and parts of North Africa. Previous
overseas postings have been to Washington DC (1998-99)
where he served in the Pentagon on exchange with the US
Air Force and he was on active service in Baghdad in
2004.
Rebecca has also served in the Middle East on active
service as a RAAF officer holding the rank of Squadron
Leader. She has worked in the Australian Embassy in DC
as well as UN FAO in Rome.
George, Jacquie, Jeanette, Ric, Meredith and Sandra
They look forward to their time in Vienna and hope to
take advantage of many of the things it has to offer. Ric is
an avid sports follower and participant, and is looking
forward to playing the golf courses of Austria and nearby
regions over the coming few years, as well as learning
German and improving his cooking.
Farewell to Jeanette and hello to Ric
It was like the end of an era saying farewell to Jeanette
Hannaford who left for New York at the end of the month
to join husband Simon. As we said in our June
Page 6
Sunset on the Danube
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
What to do with your Economic
Stimulus payment
Different European experiences
by Australian writers
Sometime this year Australian taxpayers may
again receive another 'Economic Stimulus'
payment.
Two recently published books crossed my desk last
month. Both have Australian authors and both have
European themes.
This is indeed a very exciting program which can be
explained by using a Q & A format:
Tim Bonyhady was in Vienna to promote his book, Good
Living Street. The Fortunes of my Viennese Family, that
included a presentation at
the Vienna Museum.
Q. What is an 'Economic Stimulus' payment?
A. It is money that the federal government will send to
taxpayers.
Q. Where will the government get this money?
A. From taxpayers.
Q. So the government is giving me back my own
money?
A. Only a smidgen of it.
Q. What is the purpose of this payment?
A. The plan is for you to use the money to purchase a
high-definition TV set, thus stimulating the economy.
Q. But isn't that stimulating the economy of China?
A. Shut up.
Below is some helpful advice on how to best help the
Australian Economy by spending your stimulus
cheque wisely:
 If you spend the stimulus money at Coles, the money
will go to China or Sri Lanka.
 If you spend it on petrol, your money will go to the
Arabs.
 If you purchase a computer, it will go to India,
Taiwan or China.
 If you purchase fruit and vegetables, it will go to
Mexico, Honduras and Guatemala.
 If you buy an efficient car, it will go to Japan or
Korea.
 If you purchase useless stuff, it will go to Taiwan.
 If you pay your credit cards off, or buy stock, it will
go to management bonuses and they will hide it
offshore.
Instead, keep the money in Australia by:
1) spending it at garage sales, or
2) going to the footy , or
3) spending it on prostitutes, or
4) beer or
5) tattoos.
(These are the only Australian businesses still
operating in Australia)
Conclusion:
Go to a footy game with a tattooed prostitute that you
met at a garage-sale and drink beer all day!
Page 7
Tim is an art historian and
environmental lawyer. Since
2004 he has been director of
the Australian Centre for
Environmental Law at the
Australian
National
University. His many books
include
Images
in
Opposition:
Australian
Landscape Painting 18011890,
Places
Worth
Keeping, Conservationists,
Politics and Law and The Colonial Earth which won the
NSW Premier’s Prize for Australian History and the
Queensland Premier’s Prize
for History.
Good Living Street is the
story of three generations
of women spanning a
century of upheaval, from
high society in Vienna to a
small flat in Sydney; from
patrons of the arts to
refugees
from
the
Holocaust.
Tim’s great-grandparents
were leading patrons of the
arts in fin de siècle Vienna:
Gustav Klimt painted his
great-grandmother's portrait, and the family knew many
of Vienna's leading cultural figures. In Good Living Street
he follows the lives of three generations of women in his
family in an intimate account of fraught relationships,
romance, and business highs and lows. They enjoyed a
lifestyle of luxury and privilege, until everything changed
for families of Jewish origin like his.
The book has been published in Australia and North
America and will be published in German next year.
The other book is Where to go for a seven-year cycle and
the author is a former colleague of mine, Lyn Drummond.
Her book is a philosophical, often off the main tourist
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
beat, travel book based
on her seven years’
travel
experiences
working mainly in central
and eastern Europe. The
book’s title is based on a
Jung philosophy that
seven years of our lives
represent a particular
cycle and she has just
completed such a cycle.
The seven years began
when she left Sydney in
2002 to work in Chuuk in
the Federated States of
Micronesia as a volunteer for an aid agency. The journey
continues in 2003 to Hungary and a three year contract at
the Australian Embassy in Budapest, and later as a
teacher and journalist in other parts of the region, such as
Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia and Albania.
It is not a travel book in the sense that it lists places and
contact details, but an exploration of a region she
previously had no particular interest in, a renewed
discovery of her European heritage, a strong relationship
with a city (Budapest) she has no traditional or family
connection to and a contemplation of the strong feelings
she once had for Australia.
It was published in June 2011 by Ginninderra Press.
www.ginninderrapress.com.au - Brett Bayly
The first Olympic joke
It's 2012 and it's the Olympics in London.
A Scotsman, an Englishman and an Irishman want to get in, but
they haven't got tickets.
The Scotsman picks up a manhole-cover, tucks it under his arm
and walks to the gate.
"McTavish, Scotland," he says, "Discus," and in he walks.
The Englishman picks up a length of scaffolding and slings it
over his shoulder.
"Waddington-Smythe, England," he says, "Pole vault," and in
he walks.
The Irishman looks around, picks up a roll of barbed wire and
tucks it under his arm.
"O'Malley, Ireland," he says, "Fencing."
OzCon Events
Lunch Out
With many people on holidays, there will not be a Lunch
Out this month.
Bar night
But there will be a bar night with a return to Flanagans.
Friday 20 July 18:00
Page 8
Excursion to Steiermark...and a
chocolate factory
The grand summer cruise is behind us, so on to the next
big event.
It is a day-long excursion to Steiermark, to a schloss
(pictured above), a heurigen, a schnapps maker and…..a
chocolate factory where there is plenty to sample. Once
again the OzCon budget has stretched to subsidise a bus.
We will ask €10 a head to offset the day-long cost. We
need to know how many will come, not only for the bus
but also for the tours.
DAY OUT
in Steiermark: Riegersburg:
DATE:
Saturday 15 Sept 2012
Please respond directly to
[email protected] by 20 July
******************The Plan********************************
8am: leave with bus from Vienna (Süd Bahnhof)
10am: Arrive in Riegersburg
10am-11:30am: Attend the RiegersburgSchloss. Tour
takes approx. 1 hour/Cost approx. 10 €per person.
(http://www.riegersburg.com/)
12noon-130pm: Lunch at heurigen overlooking the
Schloss Riegersburg
Travel on/off bus: 30 minutes
2pm-3pm: Tour of schnapps/vinegar Gölles. Tour takes
approx. 1 hour/Cost approx. 10 €per person.
(http://www.goelles.at/cms/index.php?page=eng-aktuell)
Travel on/off bus: 30
minutes
330pm-530pm: Zotter
chocolate factory. Tour takes
approx. 2 hour/Cost approx.
12 €per person. Mr Zotter
(http://www.zotter.at/en/home.
html)
Travel on/off bus: 30
minutes
6pm-8pm: Travel back to
Vienna Süd Bahnhof
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
A nice hot day to go cruising –
on an icebreaker
It was the hottest day of the summer so far (36 C) when I
went for a cruise on Vienna’s one and only icebreaker,
the Eisvogel. The only ice we saw was in our drinks.
It was an eye-opener as I had no idea of the complexity or
size of the Vienna port system. It is a trimodal system of
ports – the main harbor Hafen Freudenau, the grain port
Hafen Albern and the oil port Hafen Lobau. Hafen Wien
also owns the Marina Wien and the ship station
Schiffahrtszentrum.
These three harbours
handle around 1,700
cargo vessels a year.
The Danube is used
for the transport in
particular of oil
products, road salt,
building materials
such as cement, sand
or steel products, and agricultural products such as grain
and fertilisers.
was used immediately. According to historians, no fewer
than 380 vessels docked there during the first winter
season and all berths were taken. In 1925 a mooring for
floats and flying boats (which was later to be of military
importance) was completed.
Today, the Eisvogel, which can cut through 60 cm of ice,
is used to keep the harbours free of ice. It also provides
assistance in emergencies and, as was our delight, tours
for visitors with refreshments.
The port is a distribution point for 83,000 cars to agencies
in Vienna, Lower Austria, Hungary and Slovenia each
year. These barges can carry hundreds at a time.– Brett
Bayly
Vienna: A Guilty Pleasure:
Part 3 – Culture Vultures
By Chris Cubitt
Before I begin, I have been informed by a very good
source that in contrary to one of my earlier articles,
Hawelka Café is now smoke-free! May the gods of
heaven and earth be praised. Happy days indeed!
Drinks with ice please
Alright so let’s stay on target and have a nosey around
some of the more formal Viennese eateries as well as a
‘Captain Cook’ at the Wien music scene. But first let’s
turn our attention to our tummies.
RESTAURANTS:
It is the largest storage provider in Austria and spans a
surface area of 350 hectares offering a facility unequalled
along the river system that stretches 2,000 km in one way
to the Black Sea and 1,500 km in the other to the North
Sea.
The cruise was provided by the City of Vienna through its
Vienna Service Office (VSO) to employees of the Vienna
International Centre and families.
And why have an icebreaker? In 1881 30 ships were
crushed when a chunk of ice broke free, emphasising the
need for a winter harbour. Before the ports existed there
were no facilities to protect river traffic from floods or ice
and so in 1892 it was decided to develop the Danube
Canal into a freight and passenger harbour that could be
used in winter. Freudenau Harbour opened in 1902 and
Page 9




Figlmueller – The biggest and best schnitzels in
the world. Fairdinkum, if you love schnitzel (who
doesn’t?), then you just have to get your laughing
gear around one of these puppies. Go to the
restaurant on Baeckerstrasse. They serve the
schnitzel with beer; the restaurant in the Wollzeile
Lane doesn’t.
MAK – Contemporary Viennese. A little expensive
but superb.
Plachutta – The best Tafelspitz in the world (I am
more certain of this than rain on a Melbourne
summer’s day). Plachutta is a must. True Viennese.
Everyone who comes to Vienna, I believe, should
at some point, have Tafelspitz at this place (order
the shoulder cut).
Raimen – Asian food that us Asians are used to (as
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012

opposed to the super salty Asian food served up in
most of Vienna’s Asian restaurants). Do you
remember what a laksa tastes like? If not, get
yourself to this place. Oh yeah and it’s near the
hammam I discussed in my previous article. A
swish combo.

Red Elephant – Great little contemporary Viennese
restaurant.

Black Camel – An institution. Expensive but
incredible Viennese tucker. The goulash is what
I’m talking about. Not bad sangers as well. Go on
get in there tiger!

Zu den Zwei Lieserln – A classic Viennese pub
with amazing schnitzels. On Burggasse. A cool
street by the way that is worth a walk along and a
good afternoon’s sticky beak.
I love this street. In my book, it’s right up there
with Schleifmühlgasse in the cool streets of Vienna
game. Mind you, how can you say that Burggasse
is cooler than Schleifmühlgasse or that Brunswick
Street is hipper than Hindley or Beaufort? This
street comparison game, clearly, is not a young
players game. It’s an inexact science. Diversity I
think is the key here folks. If you have a TAB, a
provedore, a serious coffee café, a butcher that
knows his way around a lamb and rosemary snag, a
flouncy florist as well as a fancy and ‘locals’ pub
all in throwing distance of each other, then I reckon
you are getting close to becoming a cool street. I
hold Hindley Street in this regard. This much
maligned boulevard in the heart of Adelaide can
boast the Symphony Orchestra headquarters, a
literati book shop (Imprints), a classic student
eating house (Jerusalem Middle Eastern
Restaurant), as well as the Crazy Horse Club (a
men’s interest establishment). Now that is a street
with a diverse mix! On the cool street theme, have
you ever enjoyed an eggs benny (Benedict) and a
Virgin Mary for brekky in Brunswick Street?
OMG! Ya gotta do this when you’re next in
Melbourne. Get the Benny and the Mary going
whilst reading the Age. Once all is said and done,
wander over to the G and watch some blokes chase
a Sherin around. As the British band, Madness,
once said, “Oh what fun we had……”. I
digress……. back to Vienna…

Amarcord – Modern northern Italian and Viennese
food. Always good. It’s always full. A great
atmosphere.

Zum Alten Fassl – A hidden Viennese gem
(Ziegelfengasse 37). A non-descript door leads into
a hidden wine garden. Really ace desserts as well.

Neni Restaurant – A great place for brekky.
Fantastic Jewish food…. A fave place to kick start
a spring Saturday morning.

Around Josefstadt are a whole bunch of bars
restaurants and cafes that are enjoyed by locals. We
would wander and always find a gem.
Around Spitalgasse behind the MQ (between Burggasse
and Siebensterngasse) are several small lanes packed with
Page 10
restaurants, pubs, cafes and bars.
MUSIC
Vienna and music, actually Vienna is music. We all have
our favourite muso places a bit like Adelaidians have
their favourite small winery in the Barossa. Here are a
few of my experiences, thoughts and tips:
The little lady and I have been brought to tears a few
times when watching music in this capital of chords: the
Vienna Philharmonic and the Vienna state Opera were the
culprits. Before Vienna, I think the last time music
brought me to tears was hearing the triumphant Shinboner
theme song at the end of the 1999 Aussie Rules Grand
Final.
Okay, so some planning is involved if you want have a
look and listen to the big two Viennese musical draw
cards: the Vienna Philharmonic and the Vienna State
Opera. The former is best to book 3-4 months in advance.
But the Vienna State Opera is a different gig. You can get
standing tickets for less than €10. Standing room is great.
Free concert at Schönbrunn Palace
Avoid the Mozart dressed touts. The orchestras are okay
and they do play in some of the Hofburg Palace’s coolest
halls. But they are really pretty twee and touristy with all
of the musicians dressing up like Mozart. But if you want
to see some classical music in one of Vienna’s classic
music halls on a short notice, then these guys are the go.
The MQ Platz has DJs (free) on weekend nights. Near the
Rathaus on the Ring there is an amazing outdoor food
court where some of Vienna’s top restaurants set up stalls.
The music also pumps here as well. In the Heurigens
(cellar door wineries) you will hear Viennese folk
music… Lots of piano accordion and fiddles which goes
amazingly well with the wine… nice.
Jazz is a solid scene in Vienna (and Graz for that matter).
In Vienna, travelling artists from the planet stop over.
Jazzland and Porgy & Bess are the two clubs where you
will constantly see/hear great music. The Vienna Jazz
Festival in August is also a great distraction from all of
the other summer distractions in Vienna.
There is a healthy rock and pub band scene in Vienna.
Regular acts of such genres grace the Gasometer venue
with Aussie luminaries such as Nick Cave and The Cat
Empire gracing the stage.
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
My family ‘connection‘ with
Chicago mobster Ale Capone
By Brett Bayly
It's amazing what you learn when you talk to people who
have been around for a long time.
When I was in Canada recently I spent quite a few hours
sitting and talking with my first wife Claudette’s mother
and grandmother to my children, an amazing woman of
93 who loves to debate politics (she hates Republicans),
research everything on Google, and spend hours on her
computer when not reading books. She lives in a small
community called Peace River in northern Alberta and
claims to have read just about every book in the local
library. The library receives a regular list from her and
orders books from elsewhere.
Marie-Jeanne has been doing well but recently she has
had some health
problems so I went
to see her.
We spent hours
talking, often about
politics, or just
messing
around
with
computers,
watching TV and
drinking coffee.
One day she told me about life in Ontario when she was a
child. She and her late husband used to live in a place
called Chatham near the Great Lakes just across from
Detroit. Her husband Phil later became a farmer as was
his dad. They had 10 children and still managed to adopt
twins.
In those days leading into the Great Depression Phil’s dad
grew barley and other cereal crops which were bagged
and hidden in old farm sheds along the shore of Lake
Erie. The bags of grain were ferried along canals in a boat
pulled by a horse. Marie-Jeanne told me the horse was
trained to do the work without supervision because it was
dangerous for anyone to be seen walking beside the boat
with the horse. They would direct the horse by whistles
while they remained hidden from view.
would meet them and examine the grains. Some of these
guys were carrying Thompson (Tommy) sub-machine
guns. It was like in the movies: “We don’t want no
trouble, see!” (I made that up).
The grains were carried across the water to be made into
illegal moonshine and beer, and the dad was paid off in
cash on the spot.
And who was the boss? None other than Chicago mobster
Al Capone! So I guess I can claim that Claudette's
grandfather and father once worked (indirectly) for Al
Capone. Just love it.
Prohibition and the gangsters are
an integral part of America's history
in the 1920's. The 18th Amendment
had banned the sale, transportation
and manufacture of alcohol in
America. But it was clear to some
that millions neither wanted this law
nor would respect it. There was
obviously a huge market for what in
the
1920's
was
an
illegal
commodity. It was the gangsters
who dominated various cities who provided this
commodity. Each major city had its gangster element but
the most famous was Chicago with Al Capone. Within two
years of making it unhealthy for a rival to stay in town,
Capone was earning $60 million a year from alcohol sales
alone. Other rackets earned him an extra $45 million a
year.
*****************************************
Final curtain for the English
International Theatre
First it was the British Bookshop; now it is the
International Theatre.
As the Vienna Review put it: “On June 30 the final
curtain will fall on the intimate little theatre on
Porzellangasse in the 9th District, looking back on a 32-year history of repertory theatre in English in Vienna.”
Financial pressures, including cutbacks in government
subsidies, have forced the closure much to the regret of
expatriates and Austrians alike for having staged English
and American classics including A Christmas Carol
(every year for more than 20 years), Blythe Spirit, The
Mouse Trap and Happy Days.
OzCon has visited the theatre occasionally, the last time
being in February 2011 when a group first had dinner
then saw George Orwell’s play, 1984.
Why? I asked. Well some tough looking gentlemen
Page 11
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
Price of wine
A special noticed in a local supermarket last month: six
bottles of Lindemans Cawarra Shiraz-Cabernet for €17.94
($22.36) or €2.99 ($3.72) a bottle.
*********************************************
Summer alternatives for part of U1
Here is more information on the summer closure of part
of the U1.
The U1 will be modernized between Schwedenplatz and
Reumannplatz this summer. Construction work will start
on 7 July and end 26 August. The project is planned for
summer because there are 25% fewer passengers at this
time.
As a substitute for the U1 there will be tram 66 and tram
line 68 instead of the tram 67. In addition, the lines 6 and
14A will run more frequently. For downtown Vienna the
U2 and U4 and the ring line are recommended.
New fares and fines now in effect
From 1 May new fares came into effect for the UBahn,
trams and buses.
The cost of a yearly ticket has fallen from €449 to €365,
the cost of a single ticket has risen to €2 and a weekly
ticket to €15. The fine for travelling without a ticket has
risen from €70 to €100.
This month’s OzCon flashback
Pavs and lamingtons galore at our Aussie stall, UN
Bazaar Dec 2007
Aussie News Briefs
28 June - LABOR has indicated it could be willing to
dump plans to send asylum seekers to Malaysia, after
the Senate killed off legislation aimed at restoring
offshore processing. The vote scuttled hopes of an
immediate breakthrough in the border protection policy
stalemate that has gripped Parliament for the past two
days. And it has prompted Prime Minister Julia Gillard to
announce the formation of an expert panel, led by former
Defence Force chief Angus Houston, to develop a new
plan to stop asylum seeker boats. (ABC)
25 June - SYDNEY to London in just four hours - that's
the hope of aircraft enthusiasts eagerly awaiting details of
a new supersonic jet to replace the mothballed Concorde.
NASA is involved in the project, with plans expected to
be unveiled at next month's Farnborough air show next
month. Boeing, Lockheed Martin and Gulfstream are
leading the way to build the new supersonic passenger
plane which will target the business jet market, according
to Britain's Daily Mail newspaper. (AAP)
25 June - AUSTRALIA'S big banks have been ranked
the most profitable in the developed world for the
second year running by the influential Bank for
International Settlements. Despite slower credit growth
threatening to crimp local lenders' profits, the big four
enjoy wider interest margins and lower costs than most of
their overseas peers, the annual report of the Switzerlandbased institution shows. (Brisbane Times)
23 June – RESCUERS have found two more bodies
from a capsized asylum seeker boat, bringing the
death toll to five. But ninety passengers from the
overcrowded boat are still unaccounted for. One hundred
and nine people have been rescued since the crowded
vessel capsized on Thursday afternoon about halfway
between the Indonesian island of Java and Christmas
Island. Authorities say it is unlikely more survivors will
be found. (West Australian)
21 June - THE federal government has called for calm
after a High Court decision ruled the school chaplains
program invalid and threatened billions of dollars in
federal funding for roads, the arts, sports and other
services. The High Court ruled 6-1 that the national
school chaplaincy program, introduced by the Howard
government, was constitutionally invalid because it
exceeds the Commonwealth's funding powers. While this
invalidated the program, it also exposed to challenge
every other state service to which the Commonwealth
contributes direct funds. (Sydney Morning Herald)
21 June - POLICE have swooped on an asylum seeker
they allege is a people smuggler in claims similar to
those against alleged kingpin Captain Emad. Ewaz Ali
Rezaie boarded a boat with his wife and two sons, aged
Page 12
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
11 and 15, and came to Australia in January claiming to
be a refugee. A court heard yesterday that he arrived
without documentation and claimed to be from
Afghanistan. Prosecutors told the court they would
present witnesses who would testify Rezaie was "their
people smuggler". (Telegraph)
20 June - THE baby kangaroos at Vienna’s
Schönbrunn Zoo are enjoying the heatwave in
Austria.. The pair of rare Parma kangaroos are making
their first jumps around to discover their new home but it
doesn’t take long until they jump back into the safety of
their mothers pouch if scared. The babies, known as
joeys, were born in December but spent the first six
months of their lives in their mother’s pouch. (Austrian
Times)
12 June - THREE Australian cities are now rated as
more expensive than London for expatriates, with the
strong dollar and steep rents blamed for the high cost
of living. Sydney, Melbourne and Perth now rank as
among the world's 20 most expensive cities, according to
the 2012 Mercer Worldwide Cost of Living Survey.
Melbourne jumped to 15th spot from No.21 in the
previous year, ahead of the Chinese cities Beijing and
Shanghai. Perth, meanwhile, soared 11 places to No.19 in
the year as the mining boom pushed up costs across the
board. Canberra also leapt, to 23rd from 34th within one
year, while Brisbane rose to 24th from 31. Among major
Australian cities, Adelaide surged the fastest up the
rankings, climbing to 27th from 46th a year earlier. By a
variety of rankings, Australian cities are among the most
expensive places to live and do business in. (Brisbane
Times)
11 June - A TRIO of former Labor Party stalwarts
heads the list of the most exclusive Queen's Birthday
honours, with former Keating foreign minister Gareth
Evans, former Queensland premier Peter Beattie and
former Victorian premier Joan Kirner appointed
Companions in the Order of Australia. The three are
among only eight recipients of the 2012 Companions in
the Order of Australia. (Canberra Times)
7 June - FOREIGN Affairs Minister Bob Carr says
Australia will lift its remaining sanctions against
Burma to encourage further democratic reforms. Senator
Carr is on a three day visit to Burma, which in the past
year has surprised observers with a series of democratic
reforms, following half a century of military rule. (ABC)
5 June – SHARES in Qantas dived to an all-time low
after the airline warned profits would slump by up to 90
per cent due to deeper losses at its international
operations, weak travel demand and soaring fuel costs.
Qantas, which plans to split its profitable domestic and
loss-making international operations from next month,
said underlying profit before tax for 2011-12 would be in
the range of $50 million to $100 million. (Sydney
Morning Herald)
Page 13
4 June OPPOSITION Leader Tony
Abbott's disapproval rating has risen to a record high
to be just three points behind the Prime Minister's,
according to the latest Fairfax/Nielsen poll. Mr Abbott's
disapproval rating rose five points to 57 %. But that is of
little consolation for Prime Minister Julia Gillard, whose
disapproval rating remains steady at 60 %. Her party's
primary vote has fallen two points to 26 %, which is equal
to its record low of last July. (Courier Mail)
THE PERFECT HUSBAND
Several men are in the locker room of a golf club. A
cellular phone on a bench rings and a man engages
the hands-free speaker function and begins to talk.
Everyone else in the room stops to listen.
MAN: "Hello"
WOMAN: "Hi Honey, it's me. Are you at the club?"
MAN: "Yes."
WOMAN: "I'm at the shops now and found this
beautiful leather coat. It's only $2,000. Is it OK if I buy
it?"
MAN: "Sure, go ahead if you like it that much."
WOMAN: "I also stopped by the Lexus dealership and
saw the new models.
I saw one I really liked."
MAN: "How much?"
WOMAN: "$90,000."
MAN: "OK, but for that price I want it with all the
options."
WOMAN: "Great! Oh, and one more thing... I was just
talking to Janie and found out that the house I wanted
last year is back on the market. They're asking
$980,000 for it."
MAN: "Well, then go ahead and make an offer of
$900,000. They'll probably take it. If not, we can go
the extra eighty-thousand if it's what you really want."
WOMAN: "OK. I'll see you later! I love you so much!"
MAN: "Bye! I love you, too." The man hangs up.
The other men in the locker room are staring at him in
astonishment, mouths wide open.
He turns and asks, "Anyone know who's phone this
is?"
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012
Unless otherwise specified, all telephone
numbers are in Vienna
Australian Connection (OzCon)
Website: www.ozcon.at
Email: [email protected]
President: Brett Bayly
Mobile: 06991 264 5813
[email protected]
Vice President: Gabrielle Costigan
Mobile: 0664 61 22522
[email protected]
Treasurer and Membership Coordinator:
Rob Reed
Mobile: 06764870036
[email protected]
Board member: Colin Higgins
Mobile: +43 664 612 2138
[email protected]
Board member: Pam Morris
Mobile 0664 7310 6008
[email protected]
Board member: Mark Webster
Mobile 06991 4403 587
[email protected]
Bank Account Details:
OZCON Account
Raiffeisenlandesbank Niederosterreich – Wien
BLZ 32000
Kontonummer (Account Number): 12.097.176
IBAN AT90 32000 00012097176
BIC RLNWATWW
Annual Family Membership Fee: €20
Useful Websites:
www.vienna4u.at
www.australiawine.com.au
www.wien.info/en/music-stage-shows/operaoperetta/open-air-opera
www.awavienna.com/publications/living-invienna.html
www.language-learning-advisor.com/learninggerman.html
www.aussiehouseswap.com.au
www.wien.gv.at
www.nucolorvue.com.au
www.australien-lifestyle.de
www.australien-info.de
www.virtualvienna.net
www.ninemsn.com.au
www.kids-days.com/Wien/index_wien.html
www.expat-consulting.com
www.homesick.com.au
www.viennababiesclub.com
www.abc.net.au/vod/news/
www.australianaonline.com.au
www.news.com.au
www.expatriates.com
www.australia.gov.au
www.amadeus.net/home/dialing_codes/en/top.htm
www.austrain.vc
www.vienna-expats.at
www.aussiehouseswap.com.au
www.exfin.com
Austrian media in English:
Austrian Times, online daily English news
www.austriantimes.at
The monthly Vienna Review:
www.viennareview.net
Ether magazine, monthly www.ethermagazine.at
Worldwide media guide www.mondotimes.com
Guided Walks
Australian Embassy
Mattiellistrasse 2-4, 1040 Vienna
Tel: 506740
www.australian-embassy.at
Other Associations
Austrian-Australian Society (OAG)
Gabriele Weichart, General Secretary
Tel: 681 107 53661
[email protected]
www.australia-austria.at
Page 14
Places of Human Rights, Shadow of the Past
Schonberg and Freud
Roman Findings in Carnuntum and the National
Park
More information visit: www.viennawalks.at
The Old City of Vienna
The Third Man
More information visit: www.wienguide.at
The Australian Connection (OzCon) – July 2012