out & about The amazing Survivorbear A true story of adventure, tragedy and seriously inhuman endurance jack ie besteman by j.b. MacKinnon At twilight on the first night, she could no longer see any land. It was late August, and the midnight sun was a distant memory; eight hours would pass before light filled the sky again. Until then she was adrift in the Beaufort Sea of the Arctic Ocean. She had no food, no fresh water, no navigational aids, and no sense of how far she would need to travel before she reached either landfall or pack ice. There’d be no chance to sleep. Nonetheless, she was there by choice. Whether or not it still felt like the right choice as that first night fell, no one can say. What is beyond doubt is that, at some point over the next eight days, the journey failed to go as expected and became a raw struggle to survive. It might, in fact, be the most incredible survival story ever told, though this, too, is difficult to say, because “she” is not a human, but a female polar bear. Or did you think that only people have adventures? Her only name is Polar Bear 20741, or B741 for short, which seems fair enough— she’s a wild bear, after all, not a plush toy. No one noticed anything remarkable about her when she was darted from a helicopter on August 23, 2008, along with her cub. At seven years old, B741 was still a young bear, and weighed in at a healthy but not unusual 500 pounds; her cub, a yearling female, was already 350 pounds. The pair was tranquilized on Alaska’s northern coast, not far from where the Colville River softens into the Beaufort Sea. Over the next hour, B741 became a fully modern polar bear. Researchers fitted her with a Telonics brand radio collar with GPS, designed to record her location hourly and uplink to a satellite. The collar also featured an external thermometer, plus a 3-D accelerometer to gauge her activity level. Finally, a body-temperature sensor was surgically implanted near the base of her tail through an incision as long as a thumb. Over the next three days, the information beamed to the satellite was, if anything, unusually dull. Bear 741 moved a total of about one kilometre. Then, on August 26 at about 6 a.m., she disappeared into radio silence. “The assumption was that she was in the water,” says George Durner, the zoologist with the U.S. Geological Survey science centre in Anchorage, Alaska, who was monitoring the movements of collared polar bears. The scientific name for polar bears is not Ursus polaris but Ursus maritimus, the sea bear—they’re known to be good swimmers. The researchers were about to learn just how good they can be. From the place where B741 entered the water, there’s nowhere, really, to swim. A few barrier islands scatter down the coast, but if you head straight out to sea, the next land you encounter is the Svalbard j u n e 2 0 1 1 explore 2 9 out & about Archipelago in Norway, on the other side of the North Pole. Long before that, of course, you’d hit ice, but in the summer of 2008, the sea ice recorded by NASA’s Aqua satellite was impossibly far away—more than 600 kilometres to the north. Still, there was reason to believe that the ice pack might be B741’s ambition. When her story was told this year in an academic paper published in Polar Biology, the authors, led by Durner, acknowledged that she might have gone searching for sea ice as “a response to handling.” In other words, the shock of being anaesthetized only to wake up with what amounted to an alien probe in her hiney scientist emeritus with the Canadian Wildlife Service, who has studied polar bears for nearly 40 years. Given this cub’s genes, I’m going to imagine the yearling managed up to 300 kilometres. If so, she drowned after four days straight of swimming. Ethologists, who study animal behaviour, warn against assigning human emotions to other species. Here, though, we’re talking about intelligent, social animals that fiercely defend their cubs, play with them, teach them—animals that appear capable of forming friendship-like bonds even with unrelated bears. Bear 741 may not have wept frozen tears as her cub slipped under the surface and sank, ghostlike, into the black depths, but I don’t doubt that she felt the loss. By that point, she had already achieved the extraordinary. After four days at sea, sider the fact that polar bears swim with an inefficient dog paddle, their hind legs acting as little more than rudders. Consider the fact that, before B741, the legendary Russian bear biologist Nikita Ovsyanikov had written that polar bears probably couldn’t swim much more than 120 kilometres. By her fourth day at sea, B741 had more than doubled that distance. She’d been in continuous motion for 96 hours, and it was taking its toll: Her body temperature was in chronic decline. With no land or ice in sight, she was swimming as much toward death as anything else. That night was the new moon. Bear 741 had now swum a distance 10 times the breadth of the English Channel. Below her yawned a watery abyss so deep the numbers are meaningless. Above her, perhaps, the northern might have provoked her to abandon the coast. More likely, it was a perfectly normal decision. Beaufort bears often make midsummer swims to get back to the ice pack, home to their favourite prey, the ringed seal. The Arctic is changing, though, and what was predictable in the past is often full of surprises today. Days passed, and still B741 failed to transmit her location. Durner never felt much concern—collars malfunction, batteries fritz out, bears sometimes pry off the whole shebang and ditch it in the muskeg. She was, for the moment, simply a missing data point. Meanwhile, the flesh-andblood B741 continued to paddle into the open ocean. It was the morning of August 30, if not earlier, that tragedy struck. No one knows whether B741’s cub swam out to sea with her, but that’s seen as the most likely scenario. “A couple hundred kilometres at the most is getting out toward the limit for their cubs, even yearling cubs,” says Ian Stirling, a 3 0 explore j u n e 2 0 1 1 B741 had swum a distance greater by far than any ever managed by a human being—the Guinness record for uninterrupted swimming is a 225-kilometre Adriatic Sea crossing by Veljko Rogosic of Croatia. The Beaufort Sea in August, meanwhile, is more than 10 degrees colder than the coldest allowable temperature for internationally sanctioned open-water swimming. Throw a man in a Speedo into the Beaufort, and he could die from cold shock within five minutes. If he survived the initial immersion, he’d likely lose the dexterity to swim within half an hour and drown. Even with a life jacket, he’d be dead from hypothermia in an hour; add a quality survival suit, and he still wouldn’t last one day. If we sometimes picture animals as cartoons just waiting for a voiceover by George Clooney or Meryl Streep, the other temptation is to dismiss them as otherworldly and incapable of suffering. Can an animal be what we think of as a “survivor”—able to fight against the odds, to hunger for another hour, another minute, in the world of the living? “This particular event has got to be very unusual and toward the upper limit of what they’re capable of,” says Stirling, who described B741’s swim as “astonishing.” Con- lights made witchcraft in the sky. More likely, clouds obscured the stars in one of the most lightless corners of the globe—a perfection of night. Her life had been reduced to a single command: Keep swimming. Her only destination was due north, using powers of navigation that are unknown, but known to be excellent. But just imagine it. Blackness above, blackness below. Anyone who has been in dense forest at night, or held a hand to their face in the bowels of a cave, knows that true darkness is impenetrable. It’s an observed fact that polar bears can feel fear—in fact, some are surprisingly quick to be afraid. Ovsyanikov once watched an adult male bolt in terror at the spectre of a few leaping, cackling ravens, and suggests that a propensity to fear the unknown helps explain why a perpetually hungry predator that can claw its way through quarter-inch steel plate has fatally attacked people only a few dozen times in recorded history worldwide. Meanwhile, humans have killed an estimated 150,000 polar bears in the past three centuries. In other words, don’t imagine that this polar bear, pawing away at the darkness, feeling its life force slowly slipping away, no jack ie besteman The final numbers are mind-boggling. By the time she clambered onto the ice, B741 had swum non-stop for 232 hours— more than nine and a half days straight. She’d travelled a total of 687.1 kilometres out & about end in sight, wasn’t capable of feeling—and overcoming—fear. She could. She did. Suddenly, there she was. Durner was in Anchorage, looking over the daily satellite data, when he noticed a point in the middle of the Beaufort Sea. “It was pretty exciting,” he says, and Durner does not sound like someone who is easily excited. Between the bear’s new location and her last transmission from the Alaskan coast was a huge, blank, watery space. Durner fired off an e-mail to his colleagues: Hey, guess what? Bear 741 had found ice where there wasn’t supposed to be any—a sheet too thin to be detected by NASA, but thick enough to hold one tired bear. Her final days had been the hardest. She’d been lucky with the weather overall, mainly facing light winds. Rough seas can be lethal to swimming bears; a Beaufort gale in 2004 is estimated to have killed 27 polar bears along a 600-kilometre stretch of coastline. As B741 neared her landing, the swells climbed to six feet, the sea hoary with whitecaps and spray beginning to blow—what mariners call a “fresh breeze” on the wind force scale. The water was also the coldest she’d encountered, at 2°C, and she responded, it seems, by pushing herself—the accelerometer recorded the highest activity levels since she hit the water. How she hauled herself onto the ice is a question for the imagination. Perhaps she erupted out of the water, triumphantly, the way polar bears sometimes do when they hunt ringed seals. More likely she came ashore lethargic, shivering and desperate for fresh water. Do bears, like so many sailors, feel landsick when they stand on solid ground after days on the moving sea? The final numbers are mind-boggling. By the time she clambered onto the ice, B741 had swum non-stop for 232 hours—more than nine and a half days straight, combining epic physical effort, sleep deprivation, dehydration and hunger with the loss of a cub, for a perfect storm of sentient endurance. She’d travelled 687.1 kilometres. I’m going to guess that those last 100 metres were the longest. It’s the lack of sleep that gives me most pause. In 1964, a 17-year-old from San Diego named Randy Gardner broke the record for human sleeplessness, going without for exactly 11 days, which remains the only properly monitored achievement of its kind. By his fourth day, Gardner was sufJ u n e 2 0 1 1 explore 3 1 fering delusions—he was a famous black football player!—and also mood swings, short-term memory loss, paranoia and hallucinations. I myself once stayed awake 56 hours, at which point I fell asleep in midconversation. Nine days without rest, constantly in motion, always at risk of death, is beyond human comprehension. There was probably nothing to eat where B741 ended up, and, although polar bears normally rely on food for hydration in their frozen world, she would have eaten snow or searched out the midday puddles of meltwater. There was, at least, sweet rest. For three days she snoozed or moved slowly toward thicker ice, averaging about one kilometre per hour. Then she encountered open water again. She slipped into the sea, and swam another 80 kilometres. There’s a story about climate change in all of this, of course. “Prior to 15 years ago, sea Your family is enjoying roasting marshmallows on a campfire, when... ... suddenly your daughter falls forward onto the flames. She cries out in pain, and you immediately see a large red mark on her hand. Would you know what to do? a. After cooling the burn with water, cover it with a loose, sterile dressing? b. Apply ointment to help cool the burn? c. Drain blisters before covering the burn with a sterile dressing? “a” would be the right response. First Aid Treatment Tip: blisters offer natural cooling and healing, which is why it’s better not to use grease or ointments when treating a burn. Come take a Wilderness & Remote First Aid Course. Be prepared for the unexpected! Sponsored by: 1.877.356.3226 | www.redcross.ca/firstaid Red Cross First Aid. Prepare for life.® out & about ice generally remained over the continental shelf near the Alaska coast throughout the summer. So when a bear had to go swimming, this behaviour was very beneficial because it allowed them to get to better habitat relatively quickly in terms of distance—a distance of maybe tens of miles,” says Durner. “Well, they have this behaviour ingrained in them, and now the sea ice is retreating hundreds of miles from the coast.” It’s possible, then, that B741’s journey was truly historic—a situation no other polar bear had ever before encountered. The Arctic appears to be warming faster than the rest of the planet, and some observers consider it warmer now than at any time in the past 2,000 years. The historical range of polar bears has shrunk (they once were common in southern Newfoundland and Labrador, and likely reached as far down as the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence), and the equation for the remaining bears, www.zamberlan.com Since 1929 Zamberlan® has given shape to your passion, making the highest quality and most comfortable boots. Reliable partners on your journey. 210 Oak GT WNS who depend on the ice pack to hunt seals, is simple: less sea ice, fewer polar bears. Long-distance swimming could be an unanticipated threat. The bears that hunt harp and hooded seals off northern Labrador in spring, then walk and swim their way north as the ice breaks up, face similar dangers to the Beaufort bears. “We may be seeing more of this in the future,” says Stirling. But I’m tempted to put the polar bear’s role as symbolic climate martyr aside, and simply stand in awe of the species. Polar bears and human beings are contemporaries in geologic time, with both Ursus maritimus and Homo sapiens appearing on the scene about 200,000 years ago. We’re both astonishing creatures, humans for our ability to render the harshest environment livable, and polar bears for their capacity to live in the harshest environment. A polar bear knows its exact place on Earth even as it roams moving ice in the endless night of winter; it is so well insulated against the cold that it’s invisible in infrared photos; it can travel in a single year a distance equal to the Trans-Canada Highway between Vancouver and Halifax. And now, with B741, we know it is capable of survival in the same terms that we celebrate in ourselves: through the will to live. If anything can be said to be the mysterious spark of life, it is this. On October 26, 2008, a welcoming party was waiting for B741. The research team had been capturing Alaskan coast bears again, and had noticed in the satellite reports that a certain long-distance swimmer was making her way back down the expanding autumn ice pack. She was in the Yukon, but trending toward Alaska. In a single day, the entire field lab was moved to the border village of Kaktovik, and B741 was darted almost as soon as she crossed that imaginary frontier. Her return trip had covered another 1,800 kilometres, and in the two months since she’d last been weighed she had lost almost a quarter of her body weight. Still, she looked healthy. The researchers removed her temperature probe and gave her a new radio collar, and, at her last known transmission, she was far away again, on a trajectory toward Russia. She hasn’t been heard of since. It could be a problem with the collar. It’s possible she’s died. All anyone can say for now is that a miracle has disappeared. e J.B. MacKinnon is explore’s senior contributing editor. 3 2 explore j u n e 2 0 1 1
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