Term List Clothing Design
Basting-Temporary stitches
Clipping-cutting to the seam allowance into small slits
Notching-cutting wedges or v’s into the seam allowance
Gathering-stitch that makes/allows a larger piece to fit into a smaller one.
Seam allowance-the distance between the seam and the edge of the fabric. Usually 5/8 inch.
Grading-cutting one layer of the seam allowance shorter than the other to reduce bulk
Bias-diagonal grain of fabric which has greatest amount of stretch.
Grainline Arrow-double ended arrow that lets one know that the pattern piece should run parallel to the selvage.
Lengthwise grain-grain that runs the length of the fabric or parallel to the selvage.
Crosswise grain-grain that runs the width of the fabric or perpendicular to selvage.
Edgestitch-stitching that is close to the edge of the fabric. (less than a presser foot width)
Equipment
Seam Gauge-6 inch ruler with adjustable slides used to measure seams, hems, buttonholes or pleats.
Pinking Shears-used to cut zig zags in your fabric to prevent raveling.
Rotary cutter-a round cutter used for cutting straight lines. Used with the rotary mat & ruler.
Rotary Mat-self healing mat used with the rotary cutter to cut straight lines.
Rotary ruler-a see thru ruler used with the rotary cutter and mat to cut straight lines.
Tape Measure-a flexible ruler used to measure the body, fabric or pattern pieces.
Tracing Wheel-used to transfer pattern symbols to your fabric that goes around.
Tracing Paper-wax coated paper which transfers symbols from pattern to fabric.
Machine Parts
Stitch Length-Length of stitches per inch. (typically 2.5)
Stitch Width-width of stitches
Double stitch seam is used most often in the Crotch area of pants. 2 rows of stitching.
French seam is used most often for satin fabrics. An enclosed seam to prevent raveling.
A Flat felled seam is most often used on jeans. An enclosed seam.
A slot seam is similar to putting in a zipper.
A welt seam is found most often on jeans.
Why do we do seam finishes? Seam finishes are done to make the garment more professional, the seam stronger and
not pull out as easily.
Why do you need to know how to hand sew? So you can fix an item in an emergency, add decoration to what you are
making, minimize raveling, or temporarily hold something together.
Name the 3 Hand stitched hems –Slant stitch, Catchstitch, Slip stitch