Guide - Fabulous Lanzarote

Guide to
Lanzarote
1
WELCOME
Lanzarote
lifestyle
The climate in the Canary Islands is widely regarded as amongst the
most enviable in the world. In centuries past the archipelago was often
referred to as the Fortunate Islands for this very reason – and today
this incredibly clement climate creates the ideal environment for a wide
range of sport and leisure activities.
Cycling
Contents
Lifestyle.........................................3
Markets...........................................43
Attractions....................................6
Food & Drink................................45
Museums........................................22
Bards & Vineyards......................47
Mountain Look-Outs.................33
Essentials.......................................49
Resorts & Places.........................35
Transport.......................................52
Beaches.........................................38
Weather & Map...........................54
Fiestas & Festivals.....................40
Welcome to our guide to the Island of Lanzarote, where you can find out
everything you need to know to get the best out of your holiday on this
unique and beautiful island.
There is plenty to do and to see on Lanzarote even though it’s a small
island. Whether you’re looking for a taste of culture, some natural
beauty or a bit of fun. Apart from a spectacular natural landscape
and enviable climate, Lanzarote has managed to develop some truly
stunning cultural centres, museums and art galleries.
The climate is probably Lanzarote’s
biggest plus. Being so close to the
African coast, the island is drier than
Tenerife or Gran Canaria, the other
well-known cycling destinations on the
Canary Islands archipelago. The weather
is a lot more predictable and unlike
Mallorca, you will never be surprised by
snow. The monthly average temperatures
during the winter are high enough for
cycling and in summer you can still
enjoy your bike in the morning, although
July and August are pretty hot and
temperatures can reach above 40oC.
The weather, the landscape, the wind and
the roads all play their part in making
Lanzarote a favourite cycling destination
for many riders, who return to the island
year after year.
The island’s terrain plays an important
part in its popularity amongst cyclists.
There are plenty of flat and undulating
roads in Lanzarote, but there is no
shortage of climbs too. The tarmac is
generally in a very good condition, many
cycling routes have very little traffic and
the drivers are used to cyclists, which
makes them patient and courteous.
Diving
It’s difficult to believe that this volcanic
island has such a variety of landscapes
under the sea, where most of its fauna
lurks beneath its waters.
It is a destination that an experienced
diver will not tire of repeating. The more
you dive in its waters you like it. It has
more than 50 outstanding dives so you
can hardly know their funds in one trip.
And, with more than 100 dive sites, few
people can presume to know them all.
The volcanic landscape, however, is not
everyone’s cup of tea. Some describe
it as dramatic, but others are not afraid
to call it… ugly. Love it or hate it, the
landscape is unique and offers views
quite different than those on mainland
Europe or other Mediterranean islands.
Andrew Williams
Managing Director
2
3
Fishing
Marine Excursions
Spas, Shopping & Indulgence
Trekking & Trailing
The Atlantic Ocean surrounding
Lanzarote provides excellent conditions
for big game fishing and if you want to
try your hand at it – or you are already
an enthusiast – head for the marinas
and harbours on the south coast
(Puerto del Carmen, Puerto Calero
and Playa Blanca).
One of the best ways to get a good view
of Lanzarote is from offshore and there
is a wide range of marine excursions
available in almost all harbours. Perhaps
you would enjoy a trip on a catamaran
or on a genuine two-masted foreand-aft schooner on which you can
get the authentic pirate feel? Whale
watching is also possible during their
migration season! Plus, you can discover
Lanzarote’s stunning underwater world
without getting wet. Climb on board
a mini-submarine and journey to the
bottom of the ocean!
If you’re more interested in a spot of
pampering then Lanzarote’s growing
legion of spas provide plenty of scope
for some luxurious relaxation and self
indulgence. As do the island’s shops –
where visitors can browse the bargains
in the surroundings of shopping centres
such as the Biosfera in Puerto del
Carmen or Arrecife’s Calle Real.
Lanzarote is an island that combines sea
and mountains, but the mountains here
are ideal for trekking. As well there’s
a growing trend to trekking that runs
through the beaches and rugged terrain
of Lanzarote while affording some of the
world’s most unique vistas.
Once suitably relaxed and attired
you can then hit the islands bars and
clubs, which offer night owls plenty of
possibilities for partying long into
the night.
The perfect place for a triathlon event.
So perfect that the infamous IronMan
event has been held here annually for
over 25 years and it is recognised as
one of the toughest IronMan events
in the world.
All of them offer professionally equipped
boats for charter, some even specialise
in shark fishing. The main species
caught in the waters off these ports are
blue marlin, tuna (the best season for
these two species is between April and
November) wahoo, dolphin and bonito.
As Lanzarote is renowned for its rich
fishing grounds and many anglers want
to try their luck, we recommend that you
book early!
Triathlon
Sailing
For centuries the Canary Islands have
played an important role in maritime
history. The seven islands of the
archipelago occupy a strategically
important position in the Atlantic Ocean
- right in the path of the Trade Winds.
Golf
Although Lanzarote has had a golf
course for nearly 30 years, it has not
been well known for the sport. With the
newest course now two year’s old, a
number of new courses in the pipeline
and an enviable year round climate, that
is about to change.
This once made them the perfect
launching pad for naval expeditions to
the New World and a vital conduit for
trade between Europe, Africa and The
Americas.
Christopher Columbus embarked upon
his famous voyage of discovery from
the Canaries. Admiral Nelson lost his
arm at the Battle of Tenerife in 1797. And
during the Second World War Winston
This is a shame as the perfect year round Churchill, fearing the fall of Gibraltar,
weather would allow golf to be played at even prepared plans for the British
times when it is not possible elsewhere — invasion of the islands.
at least not without some discomfort.
Today, the Canaries provide a base for
The advent of desalination plants,
the more sedate pursuits of sports
which produce abundant water straight
sailing and marine excursions. Lanzarote
from the Atlantic means that it is now,
alone boasts four harbours and two
possible to produce the rich growth of
new marinas.
grass needed for a top-class course.
So there´s no shortage of alternatives
This important fact, coupled to the
for those who want to sample the seas
desire of the local council to take tourism around the island.
much more up-market in Lanzarote, has
allowed for additional golf courses to be
planned and constructed.
The dry climate in Lanzarote does not
naturally lend itself to the creation of
lush green golf-courses.
4
Watersports
Parascending, jet skiing, water skiing,
a trip on a speedboat and other
adrenalin-pumping activities are mainly
offered at the major resorts. The ever
popular banana boats, pedal boats and
sea kayaks are also available for hire on
many beaches.
Surfing
Lanzarote is definitely an incomparable
paradise for surfers. This magnificent
island has a pleasant temperature all year
round, beautiful and splendid beaches
and powerful waves along a coastline of
volcanic lava of singular beauty.
Windsurf & Kitesurf
With a selection of the best spots for
windsurfing and kite on the island
you can enjoy the magnificent sailing
conditions offered by this destination,
classic in Europe. The geography of the
island (30 minute drive at most from
coast to coast) allow you to truly enjoy
their conditions of wind and waves.
You’ll find spots with beach breaks, reefs,
slabs and high quality waves. Every year
heats for the world championships are
held, but here you can surf at all levels,
from beginner to expert.
Lanzarote has an area of 60 km long
by 35 km wide. It is very easy to move
from one side to another and climate
is another plus. Average temperatures
range from 25ºC in winter to 31ºC in
summer with water temperatures
ranging from 18°C to 25°C, an
absolute blast.
5
Lanzarote
attraCtions
Timanfaya National Park – Montañas Del Fuego
Raw Nature
Three hundred odd years have passed
since the eruptions of 1730-1736. Even
though the wind and sun can take their
toll, the lava fields, seas of sand and
lapilli (the black fine volcanic pebbles
and stones) all retain a pristine look
about them. Of course, this is helped by
the fact that visitors to Timanfaya are not
permitted to walk through the park so
there has been little erosion by footfall or
off-road vehicle.
Instead the coaches, which pick up
visitors from the car park at Timanfaya,
wind their way skilfully through the
landscape, in some places turning on
hairpin bends and ascending the flanks
of the highest volcano of Santa Catalina
as if it was an ordinary road.
The Volcano Park at Timanfaya
is Lanzarote´s most popular tourist
attraction. Every year close to one
million people explore this unique
lava-scape, home to a sea of colourful
dormant volcanoes, following a route
originally mapped by the island born
artist and architect César Manrique.
Background
Manrique is credited with having created
the optimum route through the park.
He also designed the restaurant which
sits on top of the Islote de Hilario, where
the car park and coach pick up point
are. The restaurant El Diablo offers
marvellous panoramic views - which are
particularly impressive at sunset.
Photo Opportunities
Especially if you consider that some of
the slabs of rock you will see standing
perpendicular to the horizon must have
flown through the air and landed where
they are from the force of the explosions.
The coach drivers stop their vehicles
at numerous points along the route so
that visitors can get a proper look at the
variety of vistas Timanfaya has to offer.
There is also a commentary throughout
the tour, provided in English, Spanish
and German.
The heat just below the earth’s crust
is still so intense that the restaurant at
Timanfaya uses an opening in the ground
to grill all the meat and fish they serve
to diners. Go into the grill room and
experience the heat for yourself.
An eyewitness to the eruptions, Father
Curbelo, recorded events in his diary as
he watched the eruptions from his parish
in Yaiza.
Earth Wind & Fire
Such was the extent of the eruptions
during these years, that although
no one died, many villagers who had
successfully farmed the area had to
flee their homes, leaving the island
altogether. So much ash and smoke
was hurled into the atmosphere that
the sun virtually disappeared for much
of this time. Three small villages were
swallowed up by the rivers of lava,
which flowed across the countryside,
devastating what had been some of the
most fertile and productive land on the
island.
There are also several demonstrations,
performed just outside the restaurant,
where staff will pour water down a
number of holes in the ground, only for
it to burst back up again in a geyser
like spout, a few seconds later. Another
demonstration shows how quickly hay
will catch light when exposed to the heat
emanating beneath the earth.
There are several other ways of exploring
this extraordinary place. If you leave
the park via the road to Yaiza, there is
a small visitor’s centre on the right hand
side of the road, where you can take a
ride up the side of a volcano on a camel.
Cuban Cigars
As a result, many of the inhabitants
undertook journeys to the New World
in search of work and a new life. The
cigar trade in Cuba was helped along
by many former Lanzaroteños, as were
many banana and sugar plantations in
countries such as Venezuela.
The camels are led in a crocodile,
with all their riders seated in the ‘English’
chairs strapped across their backs. They
have a most ungainly walk, as they move
the front and back leg on the same side
of their body at the same time - this gait
accounts for the rolling movement you
can see or feel when you experience this
ride, as well as the camels nickname of
the ship of the desert.
Liquid Lava
The sight of all this lava, in places
looking like melted wax, is awe-inspiring.
Although the volcanoes are of the
Hawaiian type, (which means that the
lava is slow moving and there is no
pyroclastic flow of ash and suffocating
debris), it is still hard to visualise quite
how terrifying it must have been to
see the earth in its molten liquid form.
Countless comparisons to a lunar
landscape have already been made.
But in reality the raw landscapes of
Timanfaya allow visitors to imagine what
the earth might have looked like when it
was first formed.
6
Fact File
Admission: ¤8 adults, ¤4 children
Open: Daily 10.00 – 17.45
Camel Ride: ¤12 per Camel
7
Jameos Del Agua
The Tour:
Referred to by César Manrique as
‘the most beautiful nightclub in the
world’ and by Rita Heyworth, the
legendary Hollywood movie star
as ‘the eighth wonder of the world’,
the Jameos del Agua is arguably the
greatest example of the artist’s work
on Lanzarote. First opened in 1966, the
Jameos really helped to put Lanzarote
on the map as a new and exciting tourist
destination at that time.
Into The Jameos
The Jameos was conceived by the island
born artist and architect César Manrique,
during the 1960’s.
Whilst other Spanish sunspots were busy
building golf courses and water parks to
attract visitors, Manrique rejected this
route. Instead he planned to fuse art
with nature on his native Lanzarote and
create a unique cultural attraction. Some
people thought he was crazy. What could
possibly be forged from the lava? By 1968
they were forced to think again.
What is a Jameos?
The Jameos del Agua - like the
Cueva de los Verdes - are part of a 6km
long lava tube which formed about 4,000
years ago when the Montaña La Corona
erupted. Molten lava continued to flow as
the surface hardened, which in turn led
to the formation of the tubes, which run
down under the Atlantic. The word Jameo
is used in this context to refer to the large
openings in the tube which formed when
parts of the roof collapsed due to
a pressure build up caused by the
volcanic gases.
One enters the Jameos by climbing down
a stone-staircase into the first cave known
as ‘Jameo Chico’, which has been turned
into an unusual bar / restaurant, with
views over a small lake. This natural lake
has extremely clear water - regulated
by the Atlantic Ocean - and is home to
a species of blind albino crabs known
as ‘Jameitos’ which are only found
on Lanzarote. These crabs have been
adopted as the symbol of the Jameos
del Agua.
It is these open-air caves which Manrique
used as the centrepiece for the attraction
and which have given it a name.
Manrique created an identity or logo for
each of the cultural attractions developed
under his aegis and symbols of crabs and
lobsters are echoed throughout the site
– from the big statue welcoming visitors in
the car park through to the giant lobster
pots used as hanging planters for giant
ferns through to more minute details such
as the lobster shaped door handles into
the main concert auditorium.
Crossing the lake, by a narrow
footpath, you then find yourself
in the ‘Jameo Grande’.
8
Refreshments
Although you have probably seen this
picture before on a myriad of postcards,
nothing is quite like walking out of the
dark tunnel to be faced, suddenly with
a huge open-air cave lined with tropical
plants and the most fantastic swimmingpool you may ever see.
As well as the bar / restaurant in the
‘Jameo Chico’ there is a second cafe next
to the Casa de los Volcanes; which enjoys
great views over the Swimming Pool area
and out to the Atlantic Ocean nearby.
Jameos del Agua At Night
This crystal-clear, turquoise pool is truly
paradise, even if you can’t actually use
it, as swimming is forbidden. Reputedly,
only the King of Spain is allowed to
swim here.
The Jameos is doubly atmopsheric at
nightime, when visitors can enjoy an
a la carte meal and tradtional folk dancing
and music on Tuesday and Saturday.
From the far end of the ‘Jameo Grande’
you can access the auditorium which has
been constructed in part of the volcanic
tube running down to the Ocean.
Fact File
Admission: ¤8 adults, ¤4 children
Open: Daily 10.00 - 17.00
and 19.00 - 02.00
(Tuesday and Saturday only)
Concert Auditorium
The auditorium that is located behind
the pool was first opened in 1987 but
was closed for several years until 2009,
due to the need for extensive restoration
work. Now completed, the auditorium
is used for classical concerts as it has
excellent acoustics and also for film
screenings. Pedro Almodovar´s film
‘Broken Embraces’ which was partially
shot in Lanzarote had its premier
screening here in 2010.
Tel: 0034 928 848024
(for evening reservations)
La Casa de los Volcanes
Climbing out of the caves one reaches
the Casa de los Volcanes (House of
the Volcanoes) which is an avantgarde
building that houses some fantastic
information about the island of Lanzarote
and volcanoes around the world. Here
one can view instruments and computers
showing live temperature measurements
and movements of the earth. These have
been placed behind glass, as they are
part of scientific studies. The Casa de
los Volcanes hosts an annual meeting
of international volcanologists and also
provides talks about volcanoes to the
general public from time-to-time.
9
The Green Caves – Cuevas de los Verdes
The Mirador del Rio
In fact there is actually a chamber
within the tunnel which is known as
‘The Refuge’, because it was so often
used for shelter.
Hidden Secrets
As with many cave systems,
the Cueva de los Verdes has its own
optical illusions, which you will be shown
on the guided tour; which is the only
way to see the Green Caves.
The Cueva de los Verdes are part of
the same collapsed lava tunnel that
forms the Jameos del Agua - a 6km
long volcanic tube which was created
about 5,000 years ago by the eruption
of the nearby volcano Monte Corona.
This 2km long underground pathway
has been brilliantly lit and houses one
of Lanzarote´s best kept secrets.
Is it worth going?
It is definitely a site worth visiting, the
beauty of the caves is amazing and it
is certainly one of the most interesting
volcanic structures on the island.
However it is a cave (a big cave) which
is lit for effect rather than visibility and
some people may find it claustrophobic.
So if caves and underground places
really really don’t turn you on, you
would probably be better visiting
the Mirador del Rio.
What is it?
Since 1964 a 2km pathway has been
open which shows off the caves to their
best effect after having been carefully
transformed by Jesus Soto. Unlike
many tourist attractions, it is difficult
to tell that there has been any human
intervention in the cave structure. The
main work has gone into an awesome
lighting system which highlights the
walls of the cave extraordinarily well.
As there aren’t a lot of facilities at
the Green Cave, you really need to
combine it with a visit to the nearby
Jameos del Agua.
Hiding from Pirates
Lanzarote has suffered attacks from
pirates and raiders throughout its history;
which is one of the reasons that the
inland town of Teguise, used to be
the capital of the island.
The Cuevas de los Verdes was an
excellent place to hide for the local
people, going as far back as the
Guanches who were an aboriginal people
who used to inhabit the Canary Islands.
Fact File
Admission: ¤8 adults, ¤4 children
Open: Daily 10.00 - 18.00
10
Enjoy a real natural high and visit the
Mirador del Rio at the northern tip of the
island. The Mirador is another amazing
Manrique creation and was formerly
a naval gun battery. Today however it
grants visitors spectacular views down
to the small neighbouring island of
La Graciosa, whilst boasting all of
the usual Manrique design flourishes.
The incredible vista across the tiny
strait of El Rio (so narrow it’s just called
the river) to the islands of the Chinijo
Archipelago remains the same though.
In 1974 César Manrique, in conjunction
with architects Jesus Soto and Eduardo
Caceres, decided to utilize the old
gun battery for an altogether more
peaceful purpose.
Historic Lookout
Initially, Manrique planned to create a
restaurant on the site, and the curvaceous
windows of the Mirador are very similar to
those he later utilized when transforming
the basement of the Castillo de San Jose
into one of the most impressive dining
rooms on the island.
Mirador literally means a lookout and this
particular vantage point, right at the end
of the Risco de Famara range, some 479
metres high, has been used for this very
purpose - albeit in varying forms - for
many hundreds of years. As long ago as
the 16th century this spot was used by the
island’s recently arrived Spanish settlers
to keep a lookout for marauding pirates,
who invaded and pillaged the island on
an on-going basis for the best part of two
hundred years.
In order to create a suitable restaurant
space Manrique had a large room quarried
out of the cliff top and created a roof
by covering the two cupolas used for
excavation with earth and grass, so cleverly
concealing the construction method.
In 1898 a small fortress and gun battery
was added to the site to deter any naval
incursions by American vessels, as Spain
went to war with the USA over the
ownership of Cuba.
Inside, he created a narrow winding white
corridor that gives visitors little clue to the
visual surprise that lies ahead. This leads
into a large, white-walled open plan area
with a wooden floor, tables and chairs.
This minimal design ensures that visitor’s
eyes are not distracted from the real feast
laid out before them.
Today, the guns are long gone and now
nominally stand guard over the modern
art treasures housed in the Castillo de San
Josein Arrecife.
11
The Cactus Garden - Jardin de Cactus
Impressive Architecture
Whilst it’s still possible to buy snacks and
drinks at the Mirador, it doesn’t house the
grand restaurant that Manrique initially
envisaged. Instead the space is dedicated
to framing the fantastic view across to the
island of La Graciosa, just one thousand
metres away, and the smaller uninhabited
islands of Alegranza, and Montaña Clara.
Immediately down below visitors can also
see the hard-to-reach beach of Playa El
Risco and the Salinas salt pans, which are
the oldest in the archipelago, dating back
to Roman times.
César Manrique
The Cactus Garden in Guatiza is a
celebration of the plant world’s spiniest
species and is located in a former quarry
in what was once the heart of Lanzarote’s
cactus growing country where locals
still harvest the cochineal beetle used
to create red dye. There are over 10,000
plants and 1,400 different species of cacti
to discover here.
This is all the work of César Manrique,
the island born artist and architect
who famously helped to shape relatively
restrained development on Lanzarote
during the 1970’s and 80’s.
A Prolific Influence
Manrique’s prolific output is reflected
in the fact that he not only designed
virtually every major tourist attraction
on the island, albeit in collaboration with
many other eminent artists and architects,
but also that he designed each of them in
great depth too.
Cactus Everywhere
The Mirador del Rio is a stunning
architectural achievement and was lauded
at the time as one of the most important
new buildings in the world. In keeping
with Manrique’s ecological philosophy
the structure blends effortlessly into it’s
surroundings whilst still providing visitors
with a real buzz.
The design proved such a hit that
Manrique later repeated the trick,
creating a similar structure, the Mirador
del Palmajero, on La Gomera, the little
sister island to Tenerife.
Fact File
Admission: ¤4.50 adults, ¤2.25
children (7 to 12 years)
Open: Daily 10.00 - 17.45
12
This truly is a celebration of the plant
world’s spiniest species, comprising
one of the best collections of cacti in
the world. Better still, these have all been
displayed to their optimum effect against
the beautiful backdrop of an amphitheatrelike giant bowl, hewn from an old quarry,
laid out in steep terraces, echoing the
stone wall patterns of the local fields.
There’s no real way to miss the Cactus
Garden as a giant, eight metre high,
green, metallic sculpture of a cacti, spikes
and all, stands sentinel-like over the car
park and main entrance. This cacti motif
is cleverly repeated everywhere: on door
handles, in the big wrought iron front
gates and in slightly more abstract forms
throughout; such as in the beautiful glass
ball sculpture that adorns a sinuous
spiral staircase in the stylish bar, situated
beneath the restored Gofio mill, at the
rear of the garden.
13
The César Manrique Foundation
Attention to Detail
For example, at every one of the
official seven centres of culture and
tourism, Manrique created a special
motif, or logo, such as the Fire Devil
at Timanfaya or the crab at Jameos
del Agua.
Spectacular Planting
with 1,000 + species
A Significant Location
Similar attention to detail can be found
not just in the planting within the garden
itself but also within the structure and
colours of some of the 1,000 plus species
on show, with many displaying incredible
complexities and colours on close
inspection and stunning flowers at
certain times of the year.
The Cactus Garden is located right in the
heart of Lanzarote’s traditional cactus
growing country, where 300 acres are still
given over to the exclusive cultivation of
the Tunera cacti.
The Importance of Cochineal
The garden highlights the historic
significance of the region in the
production of Cochineal and its
importance to the economy of the island.
Estanislao Gonzales Ferrer
The plant selection, design and layout
was the work of an eminent botanist,
Estanislao Gonzales Ferrer and the
collection of both cacti and succulents
have been drawn together from the
Canary Islands, Madagascar and America.
Do They Really Use
Crushed Beetles?
The Tunera cacti attract cochineal beetles.
Their crushed larvae, once scraped from
the plant, were once the mainstay of a
thriving island industry. The invention of
artificial colourants reduced demand for
this natural dye. It is still used in certain
items of food and drink though as, unlike
its chemical cousins, it isn’t highly toxic.
Enterprising Locals
Whilst times may have changed in
the cochineal industry at least one
enterprising local has adapted.
Every day, in the car park outside
The Cactus Garden, groups of
tourists flock around as a local farmer
demonstrates just how you actually
go about harvesting a beetle.
The former home of the famous island
born artist and architect has been built
over five inter connected bubbles in
the lava flow. This ingenious feat of
architecture was Manrique´s first major
project on the island and today showcases
his many paintings and sculptures as well
as the works of contemporaries such as
Picasso and Lasso.
Manrique returned home from America
in 1966, just as the tourist industry on
Lanzarote began to take off. Aware of
the dangers, the well-connected César
was determined to avert the threat of his
beloved island becoming buried beneath
a sea of five star concrete.
César Manrique Foundation
– Uniting Art With Nature
He championed an ecological approach
towards development, but needed to
physically demonstrate both his skills as
an architect and what could be achieved
by uniting art with nature in order to win
over opinion.
The House of Manrique
This ingenious feat of architecture was
Manrique´s first major piece of work
on Lanzarote
It perfectly encapsulates his organic
approach and desire to create a perfect
symbiosis between man, art and nature
“I want to extract harmony from
the earth to unify it with my feeling
for art.”
– César Manrique
Lava Lover
Manrique discovered his site by walking
the lava fields that surround much
of Tahiche.
So he decided to build a home, using land
that had instead been buried beneath a
sea of lava.
The green tip of a fig tree caught his
eye growing just above the sea of black
volcanic rock and on closer inspection
he found that this emerged from one of
five large bubbles that had been created
within the flow.
Work commenced, the five underground
bubbles were interconnected, and by
the end of 1968 Manrique´s creation
was complete, providing him with the
perfect work and display space and
Lanzarote with a model and vision
for future development.
Fact File
Admission: ¤5 adults, ¤2.50
children children (7 to 12 years)
Open: Daily 10.00 - 17.45
14
15
Go With The Flow
In The Swim
The route through the house takes you
through the upper floor – which houses
a considerable modern art collection,
including drawings by Picasso, Miro and
other renowned artists. Then you start
the descent to the volcanic bubble rooms
– the flow has been cleverly designed to
ensure that even on a busy day visitors
are all moving in the same direction and
everyone has the chance of taking photos
without lots of people in the way.
Following the passage through to the
garden, you can glimpse the shower
room to your right – complete with
shower fitting protruding from the rock
walls. Then you are outside, in the sunken
garden you will have glimpsed from
upstairs, with its dazzlingly turquoise
swimming pool. The garden is compact
but beautifully finished and encompasses
a lovely seating area near the barbecue, a
pathway laid out with large volcanic slabs
and a bridge over the pool.
Fountains And Bubbles
Once you have reached the bottom
of the volcanic staircase you enter the
first bubble, where there is a fountain
quietly murmuring in the background.
This bubble is almost Zen in its careful
use of texture, light, water and planting.
A doorway opens into the rock and you
pass through a short passage way to
the first living room – an elegant space,
decorated with a white marble coffee
table, a beautiful royal palm and a built in
concrete sofa with white vinyl cushions.
There are elements of this bubble which
pay homage to Georgia O’Keeffe (the
goat’s skull) and Barbara Hepworth (the
porcelain jars on the table).
Making An Entrance
Visitors enter the main dwelling through
double doors which open directly onto a
small courtyard, where the top of a palm
tree can be seen poking out of one of
the bubbles.
There are some good examples of
Manrique’s passion for making art objects
out of junk in this courtyard. And some
excellent examples of stylish planting,
with a pillar box red bougainvillea spilling
over the wall and an unusual wall-climbing
cactus used to good effect.
Red Room
From the white room the passage
leads into the red bubble, which has a
centrepiece of a (dead) fig tree, possibly
the fig tree that Manrique first saw when
he discovered the place. This bubble has
seat cushions decorated in red vinyl and
a striking statue of a man and a woman.
The staircase which connects this bubble
to the upper floor gives access to the
main living room – although now it is
only used by staff at the Foundation.
Traditional Touch
The house at ground level borrows many
features from the traditional architecture
of the Canaries – with wooden doors and
shutters, a courtyard garden, low onestorey construction with thick walls and
North African style chimneys. But once
you have entered the house and passed
through what was once the living room,
you step out onto the balcony and stairs
which hang over the sunken garden.
From here on in it is clear that this is a
house like no other.
The planting of this garden is sensitive to
the mural – bright coloured flowers mimic
the bright colours of the broken tiles.
At the edge of this garden are the
Foundation shop and a small café,
where you can sit and contemplate
the atmosphere of the house. The
surrounding environs of the Foundation
also encompass a separate gallery for
smaller exhibitions, the Foundation’s
offices and the half-wild half-cultivated
land which surrounds the whole area.
VIP Visitors
Picture This
Today, Manrique’s house appears to
be very 70’s to the eyes of many visitors:
but at the time it was considered very
progressive by the cognoscenti, if not
outlandishly futuristic.
Walking through the garden you reach
another passage way, which is partly
open and communicates with yet another
bubble room, this time with a live fig tree
growing in the middle. This is the largest
bubble apart from the garden and is
decorated in a similar style to the others.
The stairs leading out of this bubble take
you directly into what was Manrique’s
studio, and is now the gallery where
most of his art work is shown in a
standing exhibition.
As a result a non-stop stream of
glamorous visitors, such as royalty and
film stars, beat a path to his front door,
all clamouring to see this wonderful
new creation.
Foundation César Manrique
Unsurprisingly, the house remains just
as popular today, welcoming on average
some 300,000 visitors a year.
Occasionally there will be other works
of art hanging here – if there is a
particularly large exhibition being held at
the Foundation, but mostly it houses his
larger oil canvases, numerous sketches,
ink drawings and other examples of the
range of his work. The studio is also a
testament to the artist’s creative vision,
as the large picture window looking out
on to mount Maneje proves. The window
was positioned so that the view of the
volcano is central and the lava spill in the
foreground brings the outer view directly
into his workspace.
It now houses the best art gallery on
the island as well as the HQ of the César
Manrique Foundation, a non-profit body
established to promote his work and
artistic philosophy.
Fact File
Admission: ¤8 adults, children
under 12 free
Open: Daily 10.00-18.00 Monday
to Saturday, 10.00-15.00 Sunday
Off The Wall
On leaving the studio you are once more
outside and a series of steps take you
up to a more formally planted garden
with another fountain. The most stunning
aspect of this garden is the large mural on
the wall, created out of broken tiles and
depicting several bulls.
16
17
Monumento & Museo del Campesino
Exploring the House Museum
Which often provides the backdrop for
local wedding parties and other large scale
functions.
From the Monumento, the carefully laid
path of planed volcanic slabs leads into
the house museum, the Casa-Museo. This
is a life-size reconstruction of a typical
farm of the past, replicating how former
inhabitants would have lived.
The whole area - which was developed
after Manrique’s death – is lit by two large
openings in the ceiling that are covered by
retractable sailcloth awnings. The further
wall of the restaurant almost appears
to have been hewn out of the rock, as it
consists of several continuous layers of
quarried stone. The interior is adorned with
numerous plant species that tolerate low
light, with ferns, monstera deliciosa and
palms used in groups, both behind the bar
and in the picon garden in the centre of the
larger dining area.
The buildings were normally constructed
around a courtyard, to create an external
workspace that was out of the wind.
There are two examples here, one to
the left and the other to the right of the
circular threshing floor at the top of the
staircase. The courtyard on the right hand
side is home to several pieces of original
machinery used to process the crops
grown on the island.
This structure sits on a mound called
La Peña de Tajaste - a rocky outcrop
that was left untouched by the
volcanic activity which transformed the
surrounding countryside. Figuratively it
represents a local farmer astride his beast
of burden. At the foot of the monument
is a small plot of land covered in the black
volcanic picon that is used as a mulch for
the vines that are grown locally. The picon
in this field has been swept into carefully
maintained furrows as if ready for planting
– and has something of the appearance of
a Japanese Zen garden as a result.
Designed by César Manrique the
Monumento is symbolically located in
the heart of Lanzarote´s countryside and
essentially pays homage to the resilience
of the island’s farmers. Visitors can enjoy
watching local artisans creating tradtional
craft items and visit the excellent tapas
bar or more formal restaurant.
Monumento Al Campesino
Located right in the heart of the island,
the Museo is a celebration of Lanzarote’s
rural past. Providing visitors with an
insight into Lanzarote’s traditional
arts and crafts as well as a great
staging post for a bite to eat at the
excellent on site restaurant.
The menu for the main restaurant is
extensive and covers many traditional
Canarian dishes, such as goat and rabbit.
There are also examples of the English
chair, seating specifically designed to
carry two people on a camel’s back. The
overwhelming use of white paint on the
floor and wall surfaces make sunglasses
essential in this part of the museum,
to reduce the dazzling effect as much
as possible.
As with all of Manrique’s architectural
designs, there is an unexpected and playful
element to the layout, which culminates
in a waterfall. The cascade emerges from
the rocky outcrop that continues along the
whole of the far wall of the restaurant and
behind the stage where folklore groups
perform traditional Canarian music. The
water flows down the rocks on either side
of the entrance way to a volcanic tunnel
that leads to the Centro de Artesania
(Handicraft Centre).
At the bottom of the staircase of
white flooring and volcanic stone is
the restaurant and a tapas bar which
offers reasonably priced tapas at 4¤
a plate.
Typical dishes include white anchovies
(boquerones), octopus (pulpo), goat’s
cheese (queso de cabra), tuna (atun)
and green olives (aceitunas). The interior
space is decorated with examples of
the furnishings that were once used in
Canarian homes, such as the oil lamps
adorning the walls.
The location of the Monumento is clearly
signposted by the towering 15 metre
sculpture of ‘Fecundidad’ or ‘Fertility’,
constructed in 1968 from old water tanks
following a design of César Manrique’s,
executed by Jésus Soto, the island born
artist and architect’s key collaborator
on his larger scale spatial works and
installations. It is strategically located
in the centre of Lanzarote at a point where
the island’s main agricultural methods
such as jable (sandy soil), and enarenados
(dry cultivation) meet and overlap.
Shelves showcasing the handmade
ceramics line the tunnel’s walls, which are
constructed from planed volcanic stone.
The underground passage emerges into a
sunken well garden, complete with another
water feature and a spiral staircase to take
visitors back up to ground floor level. The
fountain area is beautifully planted, again
using plenty of monstera deliciosa, ferns
and papyrus.
Going Underground
To the right of the tapas bar is a double
doorway that leads visitors to the main
restaurant area, below ground. Again,
agricultural equipment has been used for
decorative purposes, with threshing boards
hung on the walls. The staircase descends
into an enormous dining space, divided
into two overlapping circles.
18
19
Shelves showcasing the handmade
ceramics line the tunnel’s walls, which are
constructed from planed volcanic stone.
The underground passage emerges into a
sunken well garden, complete with another
water feature and a spiral staircase to take
visitors back up to ground floor level. The
fountain area is beautifully planted, again
using plenty of monstera deliciosa, ferns
and papyrus.
Plots And Plans
Picon Rocks
Stray inland away from the coastal resorts
and it is readily evident that many locals
still maintain and cultivate plots and fields
all over the island. Even those with limited
land are adept at growing a large variety
of vegetables and tropical fruits.
Ingeniously, local farmers managed to turn
the island’s worst ever natural disaster on
its head. After the major six year cycle of
volcanic eruptions devastated Lanzarote
in the 1730’s one third of the most fertile
farming land was buried beneath fields of
lava and rock.
These agricultural skills were partly
passed on by necessity, as the island
has experienced many serious periods
of hunger in the past.
Artisan Centre
The top of the staircase opens out into
the courtyard of the Centro de Artesania.
Where once again the traditional
architecture predominates, with green
painted wooden doors and windows and
white walls. Canarian folklore music is
usually playing in the background as well.
Numerous workshops are housed within
these buildings, where local craftsmen and
women make baskets (cesteria), pottery
(ceramica), leather goods (artesania de
cuero) and woven fabrics (del telar - from
the loom).
Today, staples such as tomatoes,
potatoes and spinach are still cultivated
in abundance and Lanzarote even manages
to produce an one-third of Spain’s annual
onion quota. This is remarkable considering
that Lanzarote has less rainfall than the
nearby Sahara desert, some 100km to
the west!
So how is it possible to cultivate anything
in such arid conditions?
Ironically, the very substance that had
done so much to destroy agriculture also
provided its salvation as island fields are
now instead covered in small black grains
of chipped volcanic rock called picon.
The picon basically serves as porous
mulch, drawing moisture from the air,
releasing it into the ground and preventing
evaporation, so enabling a method of dry
cultivation known as ‘enarenado’.
Fact File
Admission: Free
This ingenious agricultural system is
entirely unique to Lanzarote and can be
seen to best effect in the wine region of La
Geria and the agricultural environs of San
Bartolome such as La Florida.
Open: Daily 10.00 – 18.00
Restaurant Open: 10.00 – 16.30
There is also an outlet for locally produced
wines, products such as bags made
from palm leaves (palma palmitos) and a
small souvenir shop, which also houses a
cashpoint. Upstairs in the Centre there are
several rooms with permanent exhibits,
displaying models of all the local churches
and dedicated to past activities such as
communal milling.
Using the main exit of the Centro de
Artesania, there is a pathway to the left
which goes all the way back round to
the tapas bar, passing the more formal
entrance to the subterranean restaurant.
Planted along this pathway are lemon
trees and numerous vines, illustrating the
methods adopted by farmers on Lanzarote
to protect their crops from the prevailing
wind. These semi-circular rock walls,
called zocos, can be seen in greater
abundance just a few kilometres further
up the road, in La Geria.
Fact File
Admission: Free
Open: Daily 10.00 - 18.00
Restaurant Open: Daily 10.00 - 16.30
20
21
Lanzarote
Museums
For such a small island Lanzarote has a surprisingly large number
of attractions that fall under the general, category of museums.
Some of these follow the conventional route - with exhibits, displays
and gift shops.
Others are more eclectic and could be better described as living or
working museums offering insights into specific aspects of island life.
Museum of International & Contemporary Art (MICA)
Pirate Raids
Renaissance Art
This strategic site was also selected
in order to repel repeated incursions
by British pirates, looking for easy spoils
from the Spanish vessels docked below.
After two and half years of sympathetic
renovation, The Museum opened its
drawbridge and heavy wooden doors to
the public in 1976 and today modernist
paintings and sculptures by some of the
worlds leading artists are set against the
ancient backdrop of the Castillo’s thick
stone walls.
Camel Light Brigade
After completion, the Spanish soldiers
stationed in the Castillo would mount
their camels to drive the British
buccaneers back into the Atlantic.
Downstairs, in the basement restaurant,
diners are able to enjoy panoramic,
picture perfect views of the
harbour below.
Today, visitors from the UK and all over
the world glide into the harbour aboard
luxury cruise liners to an altogether
warmer welcome, whilst primary
coloured shipping containers, are
stacked one on top of another like
bricks on the quayside.
César Manrique
The Castillo’s current incarnation can
be attributed to island born artist and
architect César Manrique, who famously
helped to shape relatively restrained
development on Lanzarote during the
1970’s and 80’s.
Natural Developments
Housed within the thick walls of the
Castillo de San José in the island capital
of Arrecife, the Museum of International
and Contemporary Art provides a real
feast for the senses. As it is home to a
small but top quality collection of Canarian
art as well as a stylish restaurant designed
by César Manrique.
as it boasts one of the island’s most
stylish restaurants, overlooking Arrecife’s
main port.
Manrique believed that Lanzarote’s
ecology and economy would be better
served over time by developing tourist
attractions of genuine cultural and
historic significance, in harmony
with the natural beauty of the island.
Fortress Of Hunger
Césars Palace
Indeed, the Castillo has an historic
food-related legacy, dating back to its
original construction in 1774.
Manrique had already successfully
demonstrated this philosophy to great
effect, having created a wildly original and
futuristic home out of five lava bubbles in
Tahiche and by developing the incredible
Jameos del Agua from a giant collapsed
volcanic tube.
Then, the incumbent King Don Carlos III
announced the five-year building project
of the Castillo as a sort of public works,
in order to alleviate the desperate poverty
and hunger that resulted from the almost
apocalyptic volcanic eruptions of
the 1730’s.
Lanzarote’s small but impressive Museum
of International and Contemporary
Art really does provide visitors with
a genuine feast of the senses.
Castillo de San José
Uniquely situated in an old historic
fortress, the Castillo de San José, the
Museum not only caters to the appetites
art lovers but discerning diners as well,
As a result the Castillo quickly became
known locally as The Fortress of Hunger.
22
Fact File
Admission: ¤2.50 Adults,
¤1.25 Children
Manrique was also able to persuade the
island authorities to allow him to restore
the Castillo, which had now been sitting
sadly, disused and abandoned, for the
best part of a century.
Open: Daily 11.00 – 20.00
Restaurant Open: Daily 13.00– 16.00
and 19.00 - 23.30
23
Palacio Spinola – Teguise
The Inquisitors House
The Palacio was originally known as the
Inquisitors House – as it was once the
HQ of the Holy Inquistion. And from the
middle of the 18th Century it became
home to the Feo Peraza family, the best
known of whom was the policitican Jose
Feo Armas. But by 1895 the Palacio had
passed into the hands of the wealthy
Spinola family.
The impressive frontage of the building
with its six huge windows enclosed by
intricately carved wooden shutters is a
clear indication of the prosperity of the
original owners.
This beautiful House Museum dating
from the 1730s offers a rich insight into
both the lifestyle of a wealthy merchant
and the architecture of the period.
Today, echoes of this prosperous
past still resonate through Teguise´s
cobbled streets – which are home to
some fantastic old buildings and a wealth
of colonial architecture that cannot be
found anywhere else on Lanzarote.
La Villa, as it is known locally, is one of
the best-preserved historic centers in the
whole of the Canary Islands.
Palacio Spinola
The house-museum at the Palacio
Spinola – renovated during the 1970´s
by the César Manrique - provides the
perfect opportunity to step back in time
and sample the lifestyle of an affluent
nobleman in 18th century Lanzarote.
Many of these buildings are now private
residences and are therefore hidden away
from public gaze behind green wooden
shutters. But the house-museum at the
Palacio Spinola is open to the public.
Historic Teguise
Teguise was the first official Spanish
crown settlement in the Canary Islands
– dating back as far as 1418 – when Maciot
de Bethencourt first demarcated the
towns boundaries.
Plaza de Leones
The Palacio Spinola is located in the
heart of Teguise in the Plaza de San
Miguel – also known locally as the Plaza
de Leones because of the two statues
of lions that stand guard opposite the
entrance to the Palace.
And across the centuries – as the
threat of pirate raids, which had
blighted the town’s security and
prosperity, receded – it became
the hub of business and commerce
on the island and the main seat of
political, military and financial power,
making it the place to reside for the
islands great and good – such as wealthy
merchants, noblemen and politicians.
Visitors walk through a formal entrance
way, tiled with volcanic stone – for
a small admission charge. – and they are
then free to explore the passageways
and patios of the Palacio with the help of
a basic printed guide which outlines the
function of each room.
Amongst the most fascinating of
these are the kitchens, with a chimney
arrangement that is open to the
elements in order to carry away cooking
smoke, a latticed viewing gallery that
overlooks the two main salons, or living
rooms, a massive dining room with
seating for thirty two guests and a
small private family chapel, featuring
an intricately carved wooden altar.
Courtyards & Patios
The exterior of the building is equally
impressive, as long passageways lead
visitors out into a delightful courtyard
area that houses two stately old
Canarian palm trees as well as a variety
of flowering plants such as hibiscus and
strelitza as well as an array of colourful
succulents.
Throughout the Palacio, modern
paintings by local artists such as
Aguilar are juxtaposed with antique
and reproduction furniture.
Here, visitors can observe the giant
wooden door guarding the entranceway,
built to a height that would allow both a
horse and rider to enter unhindered.
The Palacio Spinola isn’t huge,
comprising eleven rooms in total,
and will probably only occupy an hour
or so of your time at best. But it is an
extremely well preserved example of
18th Century architecture.
Construction on the building
started in 1730 – the same year that the
south of the island was subjected to a
six-year volcanic eruption that forged
the national park at Timanfaya. These
eruptions disrupted life on Lanzarote
and the building of the Palacio took
another fifty years to complete.
24
You might even meet a modern day
grandee, as the Palacio Spinola is
also now the official residence of the
Governor of the Canary Islands when he
is visiting Lanzarote.
25
LagOmar – Oasis de Nazaret
LagOmar - A Brief History
Step into the incredible grounds and
house built for film star Omar Sharif by
Jesus Soto in the 1970’s. Newly opened
to the public, the Museum at LagOmar
perches above the gardens, caves and
restaurant and features an exhibition
about the architect who created this
amazing property.
Background Information
Fact File
From Tahiche, follow the LZ10 to Teguise.
Continue until you reach a roundabout
with a silver, S shaped sculpture in the
centre, at which you need to take the
exit to your left. There is usually ample
parking (free) by the Convento de San
Francisco (the big church like building
on your right) or the streets close by.
Open:
Winter:
09.00 – 16.00 Monday to Friday
09.00 – 15.00 Saturday, Sunday
(and Festival Days)
The property was constructed as a
pilot house in the 1970’s by an English
developer called Sam Benady. The idea
being that it would work as a show home
to attract investors and property hunters
who wanted something similar built
for themselves.
Legend has it the actor lost the house
in a high stakes game of bridge, only
days after buying it, which has been
immortalised as part of the exhibits.
Guided tours of the house are available
every half an hour.
The developer was greatly assisted by
the architectural talents of Jesús Soto,
a Lanzaroteño who worked on numerous
projects alongside César Manrique,
including the internal lighting and
layout of the route through the
Cueva de los Verdes and various
aspects of the Timanfaya National Park.
The stylish Bar La Cueva (Cave Bar)
opens every Tuesday to Sunday from
20.00 until the early hours, making it
an ideal venue for late night drinks.
Former Quarry
It was Soto who devised the schema
for the house’s design, which was
based upon a marriage of the red
volcanic cliffs of the former quarry
site, lush green planting and smooth
white plaster surfaces, similar to those
favoured by Manrique in a number of
his constructions.
Summer:
09.00 – 15.00 Monday to Friday
09.00 – 14.00 Saturday, Sunday
(and Festival Days)
Note that Teguise is home to a large
Sunday market, when parking close
to the town is far more difficult.
Admission:
Adults: ¤3.00 Residents: ¤1.80
Children Under 12 yrs: Free
26
27
1001 Nights
This event is immortalised in a large
photograph of the two men playing cards,
which now forms part of the exhibition
on display in the house. Elsewhere, the
exhibits focus more on the construction
process, with several photographs
illustrating the different stages of the
house’s development. The internal style of
the house still retains many of the original
seventies design touches, which visitors
to the other attractions on Lanzarote will
already be familiar with.
The inspiration, however, is said
to have been an idea of Manrique’s, whose
influence is clearly in evidence throughout
the gardens and the house. The overall
effect was to create a setting that evokes
the Arabian tales of 1001 nights.
The cliff walls have been incorporated into
the design both inside and outside, with
the kitchen and dining room featuring the
rough picon stone as retaining walls.
The gardens extend down the
side of the hill, with caves and curving
staircases leading to a large terrace
with an oval swimming pool. Overlooking
this terrace is an outsize traditional
Canarian bread oven which acts as
both a place to cook and a refuge
from the heat, as it contains banquette
seating and a large built-in table.
Museo Atlantico
Sala Jesus Soto
And in the Sala Jesús Soto there is more
information about the designer, who has
won several awards for his works as an
artistic architect in the Canary Islands. He
originally began his professional life as
an electrician, but as a result of working
alongside Manrique, his talents extended
into the construction of various installations
and projects, such as Casa Sharif.
Star Attraction
Whilst the house was still in construction
in 1972, a number of film stars, including
Omar Sharif, were on Lanzarote filming
‘The Mysterious Isle’. This was a Spanish
production, directed by Juan Antonio
Bardem based on the Jules Verne novel
and starring Omar Sharif as Captain Nemo.
Reproduced with kind permission of Jason deCaires Taylor and CACT Lanzarote
But as a result of Manrique’s extensive
legacy, Soto has been left somewhat
in the shadows, which is much of the
reason for the museum’s focus on his
contribution to various projects based
in Lanzarote.
Museo Atlantico is Europe’s first
underwater contemporary art museum,
located in the clear turquoise waters off
the coast of Las Coloradas, Lanzarote.
The brainchild of British sculptor, Jason
deCaires taylor, the project is designed on
the basis of a conservationist objective,
tracing a dialogue between art and nature
through the creation of an artificial reef
and large scale sculpture to help increase
marine biomass and species of local fish.
Sala Jesus Soto
During filming the cast visited the house
being built on the side of the cliffs at
Nazaret and Sharif was so taken with
the design he bought it there and then.
At the time, the house was almost the
only dwelling in Nazaret, as can be seen
from several of the photographs which
form part of the exhibition at the museum
Guided tours around the house and
gardens are now available, starting at 11.00
and then every half hour, with explanations
of the history of the house in English,
Spanish and German. The remaining
gardens, restaurant, gallery and Bar La
Cueva, which were all constructed during
the 1990’s have been open since their
completion and can be visited at the same
time. Visitors to LagOmar Museum should
go in through the entrance for Bar La
Cueva, where the ticket office is located.
Gambling on the House
Sharif’s purchase of the house was shortlived however. As within days he lost the
property in a game of bridge. And the
winner was none other than the developer
Sam Benady, who, unbeknown to Sharif,
was the European Bridge Champion at
that time and who, knowing the actor’s
addiction to gambling, challenged him
to a game.
The museum sits on the seabed, about 12
metres deep, and is accessible by diving or
visits in a glass bottomed boat.
Fact File
Fact File
Admission: ¤5 for adults and ¤2
for children over 12 years.
28
Open: Mon – Sat 09:00 – 18:00
(Sun 09:00 - 18:00 Jul - Oct)
Reproduced with kind permission of
Jason deCaires Taylor and CACT Lanzarote
Telephone: 0034 928 51 73 88
29
El Grifo Wine Museum – Masdache
Secrets of Success
To the delight of guests each tour
concludes with a tasting, allowing
visitors to sample the wine of their
choice from the bodegas portfolio of
thirteen different varieties.
How has a once relatively small player
managed to achieve such a feat?
Especially as the bodega was only
founded some 40 years after most of
Lanzarote´s wine region was covered in
layers of lava by the volcanic eruptions
of 1730-1736.
Most popular is the dry white or seco –
reflecting current day preferences for
dry over sweet wines. Although visitors
who are really keen to sample a taste
of tradition can also enjoy sweet or
semi-sweet Malvasia wines that are
very close cousins to those once enjoyed
by Shakespeare and the aristocracy
of Europe.
The answers can be found within the walls
of the El Grifo Wine Museum – where
highly knowledgeable and multil lingual
guides provide visitors with a fascinating
insight into the bodegas production
methods and innovative philosophy.
Europe´s Top Tipple
Learn more about the unique method
of viniculture on Lanzarote by visiting
the Wine Museum, which is housed at El
Grifo, the island’s oldest bodega.
By the end of the 17th century exports of
Malvasia had reached record levels
– with some six million litres heading
into Northern European ports such
as Amsterdam and London, where it
commanded a premium price over
wines from other regions.
The bodega building is a classic example
of local architecture, dating back to the
1770’s and the museum houses all sorts
of bacchanalian paraphernalia, such as
ancient presses and bottling equipment.
Malvasia Grapes
El Grifo Wine Museum
Today, the Malvasia grape is still grown
on Lanzarote – and underpins the wide
range of wines that are created by the
El Grifo bodega, the largest winery on
Lanzarote (and the second biggest in
the whole of the Canary Islands). Up to
700,000 litres a year are produced both
for domestic consumption and for export
around the world.
The El Grifo Wine Museum gives tourists
a real taste of island history. As well as
a fascinating insight into the unique
methods of viniculture employed on
Lanzarote.
History of Viniculture
Wine production has long been centrally
important to the economy of the island –
and boasts a rich heritage – as vines have
been under cultivation on Lanzarote for
at least 500 years. In fact, back in the
16th and 17th centuries sweet Canarian
Malvasia wine was one of Europe´s
top tipples.
Award Winning Wines
El Grifo wines still garner plaudits from
those in the know – picking up prestigious
awards such as a Gold Medal for their
beautifully packaged fortified wine,
Canari, at the 2007 International Wine
and Spirit Championship in London.
Regarded by the cognoscenti as the
´Nectar of the Gods’, bottles of malmsey
or sack (as it was more widely known
then) graced the tables of European
Kings and Queens and was praised by
William Shakespeare, who enjoyed an
annual allowance from the Crown of 268
gallons – in appreciation for his role as
poet laureate.
Tour Times
Under the Influence
of César Manrique
Guided tours take place every day at the
following times: 11.00, 11.30, 12.00, 12.30,
13.00, 15.00, 15.30, 16.00, 16.30 and 17.00.
And visitors can choose from two tour
packages: A standard tour and a superior
tour which features a more in-depth tasting
session, featuring five wines, cheese
and crackers.
The Wine Museum was developed by
artist and architect César Manrique around
eighteen years ago, with the bodegas
highly distinctive griffin logo. It is divided
into a number of zones in what was once
the estates bodega – enabling visitors
to gain a step by step insight into the
production process from grape to glass.
How To Get There
The El Grifo Wine Museum is three
kilometres away from the landmark of
the Monumento al Campesino. Follow
the LZ30 from the Monumento – which
is located just outside San Bartolome –
and follow the road in the direction of
Masdache, Uga and La Geria. The Museum
is clearly signposted on your right
hand side.
In the El Lagar area guests find out how
grapes have been pressed here over the
centuries – using a variety of different
types of wonderful machinery – examples
of which date back hundreds of years.
Amongst them a massive giant screw
press, called El Husillo.
Whist in El Bodegon we find out how
wines were stored and fermented in
massive limestone tanks – which are now
used to display a fine array of wine making
machinery and gadgetry, such as pumps,
corking machines and copper stills.
Fact File
Tradtional Architecture
Open: Seven days a week,
10.30 to 18.00
All of these exhibits are set against
the backdrop of a fantastic Canarian
architecture, featuring thick white
washed walls and wooden ceilings that
are hundreds of years old.
30
Telephone: 0034 928 524951
31
Other Museums in Lanzarote
Museo del Tanit - San Bartolomé
This quirky and fascinating ethnographic
museum is a collection of every day
items of island life from the last 200
odd years, giving a faithful insight
into how real people used to live.
Mountain
look-outs
As an island formed from some 100 plus volcanoes, Lanzarote naturally
offers some incredible vantage points, or miradors (from the Spanish
verb mirar, to look), for visitors in search of memorable views and vistas.
The Museum is housed in the basement
bodega of a beautiful 18th century house
with an art gallery and pretty gardens.
Open Monday to Saturday from 10.00
to 14.00.
Some of these lookout points are so
spectacular or panoramic that they have
been further enhanced by man made
additions, such as the Castillo Santa
Barbara on Mount Guanapay above
Teguise or César Manrique´s beautiful
building at the Mirador Del Rio.
Agricultural Museum
El Patio - Tiagua
Travel back through time and discover
more about the agricultural traditions
of Lanzarote. This excellent museum is
housed in one of the biggest and best
old rural houses on the island, where
traditional crops are still cultivated and
farm animals roam free.
Past the chapel lie various outcrops
of rock that afford the most incredible
views down to Famara below, over to
Graciosa and back down to the center
and south of the island.
Not one for vertigo sufferers
and keep a tight rein on the kids.
Others remain very much as Mother
Nature intended and are well off the
beaten track. There are even special road
signs, displaying the symbol of a camera,
marking many of them.
There is also a small cactus garden,
a chapel and a wine museum. Visitors
can also buy wine and goat’s cheese
produced on the farm. The museum
is open from 10.00 to 17.00 Monday
to Friday and from 10.00 to 14.00
on Saturday.
Pirate Museum
- Castillo de Santa Barbara, Teguise
Lanzarote´s location as a staging post
between the New World and the Old
made the island a prime target for
pirate incursions. This museum, housed
in the Castillo de Santa Barbara which
overlooks the former island capital of
Teguise, relates the experiences of the
locals as they struggled to cope with
repeated raids.
The Pirate Museum is open 10.00
to 15.00 Monday to Saturday,
closed Sundays.
32
Las Nieves can be reached from the
LZ10. Drive through Los Valles and
watch out for the signposts.
Mirador Valle del Palomo
Here are some of the best spots to head
for if you fancy reaching higher ground.
Little more than a lay by really on the
LZ10 in the north of the island but the
views down to Arrieta, Mala and Guatiza
are well worth pulling over for.
Las Nieves
Easy to find, the lay by is directly
after the giant golf ball, or observatory,
which sits atop the Risco de Famara, as
you drive towards Haria from Los Valles.
Los Valles-Haria
Head in the clouds? It will be here.
Las Nieves sits on top of the Risco de
Famara range of mountains that runs
all the way from the beach of the same
name up to the Mirador del Rio in the
north of the island.
Here you’ll find the impossibly pretty
Ermita de las Nieves - the fittingly titled
Hermitage of the Clouds. This chapel is
dedicated to the Virgin of las Nieves to
whom the locals have prayed for rain for
many centuries.
She must be a little hard of hearing
though as rainfall stays as low as ever on
the island. Alternatively the prayers may
have been lost on the wind as it can be
extremely breezy up here.
33
Resorts
Mirador de Haria
Just a couple of minutes past the lay
by for the Mirador Valle del Palomo sits
a restaurant, Los Helechos. The food
here is nothing special but the view is
incredible, so order a coffee and just
feast your eyes on the beautiful Valle de
Temisa and the coastline of Arrieta below
& places
There’s so much more to Lanzarote than just the three main tourist
resorts.
Mirador de Guinate
Easy to find but little known spot which
offers great views over to Graciosa. Drive
to and past the Guinate Tropical Park for
around 3/4 minutes and you can’t miss it
as the road comes to an abrupt end.
Get out and discover historic towns
such as Teguise, the former island
capital and home to a treasure trove
of colonial architecture. Explore the
modern metropolis of Arrecife. Discover
picturesque villages such as Haria in the
Valley of 1,000 Palms and Yaiza, close to
the Timanfaya National Park.
El Balcon de Femes
El Balcon (The Balcony) in the lovely
old village of Femes is well worth a visit.
It sits some 450 metres high and gives
breathtaking views down across the
Rubicon Plain to Playa Blanca below
and out to the neighbouring island of
Fuerteventura.
attendant urban hustle and bustle.
The capital also lays claim to two
historic castles, the Castillo de San José,
which is home to the island´s Museum
of International and Contemporary Art
and the Castillo de San Gabriel. Where
visitors can learn more about the history
of Arrecife.
There’s a small historic quarter that is
also well worth exploring in and around
the Charco and Church de San Gines.
Where you will also find some good,
atmospheric restaurants.
Mirador de Yaiza
This mirador has been enhanced by
man with the creation of steps and
landscaped gardens but still offers
great views back to the Volcano Park
at Timanfaya.
Femes is easy to find its well signposted
on the LZ2 running between Puerto
el Carmen and Yaiza and also boasts
the added bonus of a couple of decent
restaurants. The best is Casa Emiliano,
set back a little from the Balcony.
The best views however are from the
restaurant Balcon de Femes.
The Main Resorts
There are three main resorts on
Lanzarote, along with the marina at
Puerto Calero, which is also home to a
brace of top quality hotels, the Costa
Calero and the Hesperia.
It´s easy to find too. If driving into Yaiza
from Puerto del Carmen take the first left
after the church, drive straight ahead for
a couple of minutes and you cant miss it.
Puerto del Carmen
Puerto del Carmen is the oldest and
largest resort on Lanzarote and the
spot where modern tourism first took
off. Originally built around the old town
harbour it has now extended along six
kilometres of golden, sandy beaches.
Lanzarote´s Capital Arrecife
If you want to catch a more modern and
metropolitan side of Lanzarote then visit
Arrecife, the island’s capital. Here you
will find a lively port city, shaped both
by its seafaring past and its current,
rapid regeneration.
It offers a wide range of holiday styles
from studio apartments overlooking
the lively beach road to luxury private
villas in the exclusive Los Mojones area
perched on a clifftop overlooking the
harbour and out to sea.
Arrecife is home to around one third
of the island’s inhabitants, with a
population of some 45,000 and boasts
shopping galore, beaches, parks,
promenades, nightlife and all of the
34
35
Costa Teguise
Puerto Calero
Tias
Coastal Villages
One of the island’s longest established
resorts, Costa Teguise was first
developed in the 1970’s under the aegis
of César Manrique and was purpose
built as a tourist resort from the start.
Much smaller than Costa Teguise, Playa
Blanca or Puerto del Carmen — and
definitely more upmarket. There’s no
beach here either but tourists can swim
from the rocks at either side of the
marina and there are two hotels and a
number of holiday villas available for
those seeking accommodation.
Despite being one of the oldest and
most important towns on the island
Tias doesn’t often feature very
prominently in many tourist guides
and, on the face of it, appears to
boast few major attractions.
There are still a number of small, seaside villages which have escaped the
developers’ excesses found in the main
resort areas.
Yet this busy town, overlooking the main
resort of Puerto Del Carmen, was home
to a Nobel prize winner as well as a
growing army of ex-pats. It also boasts
a growing reputation as a destination in
its own right and is the conduit through
which the vast majority of the island’s
sizeable tourist revenue flows.
Small fishing village - and an amazing
beach - on the North-West coast,
which is highly popular with local and
international surfers.
As a result the one criticism that some
visitors have is that Costa Teguise
lacks an organic heart - with nothing to
match the atmopshere of the Old Town
harbour in Puerto del Carmen or indeed
the small centre of Playa Blanca, which
was once a tiny fishing village.
Puerto Calero represents one man’s
dream and is definitely a place to visit
if you appreciate the finer things or
have a love of boats, as the marina
here is excellent.
That being said there are plenty of
great beaches in Costa Teguise and the
resort is ideally located for exploring
Lanzarote’s many attractions.
Other Towns & Villages
Haria
Playa Blanca
Located in the valley of 1,000 palms,
Haria has much to offer the visitor who
wants to see a real slice of Lanzarote.
The resort of Playa Blanca has seen
rapid development over the last few
years, although thankfully due to the
island’s strict planning laws, none of this
has involved high-rise developments.
The scenery here is breathtaking whilst
the village itself is very atmopsheric.
A weekly artisan market takes place
here every Saturday, there’s a small art
gallery located in the old aljibe or water
deposit in the main square and César
Manrique is also buried in the local
cemetry, having lived his final years
in a house in Haria.
Although it continues to grow, it has
retained its more relaxed atmosphere
and is still considered more upmarket
than Costa Teguise or Puerto del
Carmen by some visitors.
Caleta de Famara
With some stunning views, bracing
walks and a selection of nice — if simple
— restaurants, it has much to offer if you
want to chill out for a while.
Yaiza
Arrieta
Voted the Prettiest Village in Spain on
more than one occasion, Yaiza is a quiet
and tranquil place to explore.
This unspolit former fishing village is a
real gem and in Playa de Garita boasts
one of the best beaches on Lanzarote.
Lucky to still be here at all, because
of its proximity to the volcanoes at
Timanfaya, it should be on any visitor’s
list of places to see.
Just a few kilometres South of Puerto
Calero, this is a very small village, where
the houses spill right onto the black,
volcanic beach.
It certainly offers an insight into what
Lanzarote used to be like, before it was
discovered by the tourist trade.
Teguise - La Villa
Teguise was the capital of the island for
hundreds of years, until it lost this title
to Arrecife.
Now largely ignored by tourists — other
than for the Sunday Market — it remains
a great place to visit during the week,
as it boasts some excellent architecture
and remains relatively tranquil.
If you are hiring a car and exploring the
island it´s highly likely that you will be
passing through Teguise at some stage
as it is en route to many attractions in
the North and in quite close proximity
to the beach at Famara.
36
37
Lanzarote
Beaches
Lanzarote is a real beach lover’s paradise. The island is home to
close to 100 superb stretches of sand, some of which are regarded
as amongst the best in the Canaries, such as the huge sweeping bay
at Famara on the rugged North West coast and the interconnected
coves of Papagayo, located close to Playa Blanca in the south.
And best of all the vast majority boast golden grains, not the black
volcanic sand prevalent on some other Canary Islands.
Land of Sand
Black Gold
Whilst Lanzarote has many attractions
the island’s climate and beaches are
the main draw for the vast majority
of visitors. All of the main resorts of
Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise
and Playa Blanca boast some excellent
Playas, most of which were created for
tourists using sand imported from the
Sahara. But the island is also home to
some spectacular, all natural beaches
which are well worth exploring.
The Canary Islands are often associated
with black sand beaches, but there are
few of these on Lanzarote, despite the
relatively recent volcanic eruptions on
the island. If you do want to discover
these then head for Playa Quemada,
close to Puerto del Carmen or El Golfo,
which is en route to Playa Blanca
– as these are both great examples.
Blue Flag Beaches
As you’d expect, all of the three main
resorts - Costa Teguise, Puerto del
Carmen and Playa Blanca – have an
excellent selection of Blue Flag beaches.
These are well maintained, cleaned
regularly and offer all of the usual
facilities, such as loungers, sun shades
and toilets.
Peak season
Inevitably the beaches in the main
resorts can get busy, especially during
peak seasons such as summer, Christmas
and other school holidays.
So should you tire of sharing the sand
with hundreds of others there are plenty
of other options to explore.
38
Off The Beaten Track
Arrieta
The most beautiful beaches on the island
are a bit more off the beaten track and
generally less crowded than the beaches
in resort. They have also been largely left
in their natural state - which means most
have no facilities and any cleaning is left
to the tide.
Families or those who prefer to have a
few more facilities on hand should head
for Playa Garita at Arrieta. The beach here
is around 1km long and has a couple of
restaurants right on the sand. There are
also well-maintained showers and toilets.
Best Beach?
Around half of the island’s population of
140,000 lives in Arrecife and they’ve got
an excellent beach right on their doorstep.
The palm fringed beach of Playa Reducto
is right in the centre of town. Great for
swimming due to the reefs that surround
the capital’s shoreline.
Sand & The City
As beauty is in the eye of the beholder
its tough to rank one above the other.
However most locals would agree that
the beaches at Papagayo and Famara are
the most stunning on the island.
Both are very different. Papagayo is a
picturesque collection of coves whilst
Famara is a nine-kilometre stretch of sand.
Local Favourites
El Cable lies just outside Arrecife and the
little conurbation here has the feel of an
up-market housing estate. There is a nice
little beach here though which can also be
reached on foot via the coastal path that
now runs all the way from Arrecife through
to Puerto del Carmen.
Crucially though, Papagayo generally
enjoys far better weather as it lies at the
southern tip of the island. Famara, on the
other hand, sits on the north west coast,
which means it isn’t really suitable for
sunbathing during the winter months.
Playa Honda is a large seafront
conurbation close to the airport and
there’s a 5km long expanse of beach here
called Guacimeta. The beach is backed
by a picturesque, well-planted walkway
and there are a few bars and restaurants
dotted around too.
Even at other times of the year strong
winds can also make Famara better suited
to activities such as walking or kite surfing
Wild Things
Orzola at the northern tip of the island
is home to a number of wild and natural
beaches. The best known of these is
Caleton Blanco, the last beach before
you hit the village on the road from the
Jameos del Agua.
Just north of Orzola lies Playa de la
Canteria, another beautiful beach but
with big breakers, making it dangerous
for swimmers but a firm favourite with
local surfers.
Further north, beneath the
Mirador Del Rio, lies Playa El Risco,
This is probably the wildest beach on the
island and it is difficult to access – by boat
from Orzola or by coming down a cliff
path just close to Guinate Tropical Park.
A serious one-hour hike that feels twice
the distance on the uphill return.
39
Fiestas
and Festivals
Lanzarote boasts an abundance of unique fiestas and festivals that are
well worth visiting. Virtually all of these events are religious in origin –
but you don’t have to be a Catholic or a Conejero to get involved.
The best place to watch the festivities is
in the island’s capital Arrecife, where a
large scale and well attended procession
takes place on the evening of January 5th,
usually commencing at 6pm.
We’ve featured some of the biggest and
best events below. These are further
augmented by Spanish national holidays
and more localised fiestas in specific
villages, towns and municipalities
throughout the year. So if you´re
planning to Lanzarote you might want
to coincide your visit with one of these
events.
The procession is also repeated later in
Puerto del Carmen along the main Avenida
de las Playas, normally
from 9pm.
Processions also make their way through
every town and village on the island.
Carnaval – Dates Vary
Carnival in the Canary Islands is a serious
business. After Rio de Janeiro these seven
islands of Spain host some of the biggest
and most riotous celebrations
in the world, especially on the island
of Tenerife.
Lanzarote does it’s bit too though – and
many holiday makers time their visit to
coincide with this annual event, which
traditionally kicks off in the last week or so
of Februrary.
Dia De Los Reyes – January 5th/6th
In Spain it’s the Three Wise men who
come bearing gifts, not Santa Claus. And
as a result Twelfth Night, or Epiphany, is
one of the most important events on the
festival calendar. Especially if you are a
kid – as this is when (officially anyway)
you get your Christmas presents.
Carnival takes place on different dates in
different locations – but the best places to
catch the action are in Arrecife and Puerto
del Carmen. In Arrecife the event stretches
across a week or so – building up to the
main procession, which features brilliantly
decorated floats, fantastic costumes and
lots of riotous music and dancing.
The event is marked with a colourful
camel back procession as the Three
Kings dispense sweets to children
throughout the main towns on the island.
Smaller scale versions of the event also
take place in Costa Teguise and Playa
Blanca.
40
Corpus Christi - Mid-June
Canarian wrestling and game hunting
competitions.
After Carnival, Corpus Christi has to be
Lanzarote’s most colourful event.
Even the local supermarkets get in on
the act with loads of free food and wine
tastings. And most hotels mark the event,
usually with themed food and folklore
celebrations - so everyone has a chance
to celebrate the event.
As with most fiestas and festivals on
the island the best place to take in the
celebrations is in the capital, Arrecife.
On the Saturday afternoon following
Corpus Christi islanders create incredibly
intricate carpets of sea salt, in elaborate
and colourful designs, all along the roads
and pavements around the Church of San
Ginés (adjacent to the El Charco Area).
Nuestra Señora del Carmen - mid
to late July
The actual official Saints day of Nuestra
Señora del Carmen is 16th July. From this
date onwards a variety of events and
celebrations are held in various towns
around Lanzarote, including Teguise,
Playa Blanca and Puerto del Carmen.
The next day a major procession
proceeds from the Church across the
carpets of salt. So these works of art
are visible for one day only.
The most impressive aspect of this saint’s
day is the maritime procession, when the
effigy of Saint Carmen is paraded out
of the church and carried through the
town, down to the water’s edge. Where
a boat festooned with flowers transports
the saint out onto the waves. The boat
carrying her likeness is surrounded by a
flotilla of fishing vessels, as the fishermen
make their annual blessing of the sea
and pray for a bountiful catch during the
coming year.
The date of this fiesta changes every
year – so keep an eye on
www.lanzaroteinformation.com
Canarian Day - Dia de Canarias –
May 30th
May 30th marks the date when the
Canaries first gained autonomy from
Spain, back in 1983. And now it’s an
annual holiday across all of the seven
islands in the archipelago.
The fiesta is a celebration of Canarian
culture and events are held across
the island. School kids don traditional
dress, tuck into local dishes and dance
to folklore music. The Canarian flag
(white, blue and yellow) flies everywhere
and the Cabildo organises fishing,
Both Playa Blanca and Puerto del Carmen
have churches dedicated to Nuestra
Señora del Carmen. A repetition which
testifies to both towns’ origins as small
fishing villages, when many local families
survival would have depended on the
haul they could bring in from the sea.
41
The historical significance of the fiesta
can be traced back all the way to the
maritime town of Haifa in Israel. Which
is where the cult of Carmen (or Carmel,
as she is known there) began.
itself, where traditional island sports such
as Canarian sailing and wrestling are
celebrated and a new Miss Lanzarote is
elected annually.
The whole event then culminates in an
impressive and extremely well attended
fireworks display on the main beach
promenade next to the Arrecife Gran
Hotel on the night of the 25th, usually
starting at around 23.30 hrs.
Its emergence as a focal point in the
Roman Catholic calendar occurred over
centuries, but certainly by the eighteenth
century, the current style of festival
had begun.
An admiral, Antonio Barcélo Pont de la
Terra, native of Mallorca introduced a
gala amongst his ship’s crew in honour of
Carmen. Today on this Balearic island the
same commemoration still takes place, in
the town of Port d’Andratx.
Fiesta de Nuestra Señora de Los
Dolores - September
Lanzarote
MARKETS
What’s a holiday without a bit of souvenir hunting or a spot of serious
shopping? Well, heaven for some and hell for others, but at least
Lanzarote’s open air markets offer some atmosphere and entertainment.
Fantastic fiesta celebrating the island’s
patron saint and marking the point
where the flow of lava from yet another
volcanic eruption miraculously came to
a halt in 1824 just outside the village of
Mancha Blanca.
On the mainland, in areas such as
Fuengirola, similar processions occur,
with the effigy of Carmen at their centre.
Likewise Tenerife also has its own Fiesta
of Sra. Del Carmen, except that it is
celebrated in September, on the first
Sunday of the month. But the same
traditions are observed nonetheless.
This attracts serious crowds – most in
traditional Canarian dress – with many
walking on foot to Mancha Blanca
from all over the island as a form
of pilgrimage. Often accompanied
by supermarket trolleys full of
‘refreshments’.
Fiesta de San Gines – 15th-25th
August
In Mancha Blanca itself the action
revolves around the church, where
Dolores is paraded – as well as around
the huge array of mobile bars and food
stalls that spring up especially for
the event.
This major fiesta is in honour of Arrecife’s
patron saint San Gines.
San Gines was formerly the Bishop of
Clermont. During the 16th century he
was responsible for the construction of
a small hermitage, now the Church de
San Gines, that ministered to the nearby
population of the small inland port area,
called El Charco (also known locally as
the puddle).
Teguise Market - Sunday
Sadly, there aren’t many of the
traditional food markets that you find in
mainland Spain, although fresh fruit and
vegetables can be found at the Saturday
market in Haria, at La Recova in Arrecife
and the Sunday market in Mancha Blanca.
The mother of all markets, this huge
affair is as much a weekly social and
cultural event as a shopping excursion.
The normally sleepy town of Teguise is
transformed, as hundreds of stalls selling
all manner of goods vie for custom
amidst the thousand-strong throngs
of locals and tourists.
However, Lanzarote does host a massive
market every Sunday in the old capital
of Teguise, which attracts thousands
of visitors from all over the island. In
addition, smaller scale markets are held
across Lanzarote throughout the week.
You really can buy pretty much
anything here - ranging from
genuine, locally produced handcrafts
such as pottery and timples (a small
Canarian guitar) through to Chinese
mass-manufactured goods and the
obligatory African wood carvings.
Legend has it that during the 1700’s a
portrait of the Bishop appeared, floating
on the waters of El Charco. And from
that moment on the “porteños” (port
dwellers) proclaimed him the Patron
Saint of the city.
Just like Monty Python’s Life Of Brian,
haggling is obligatory and local folklore
groups performing in Teguise’s Main
Square add further volume to the
spectacle. Busy, bustling and good
fun but best reached either by private
car or on an organized excursion
Whatever the truth of the legend it’s
a great excuse for a fiesta. And during
the daytime much of the activity is
concentrated around the El Charco area
42
43
Food &
Haria Market - Saturday
In total contrast to Teguise, Haria
stages a laid back, small-scale market
every Saturday morning, with 20 to 30
stalls set up in the shade of the town’s
beautiful tree-lined main square.
drink
Haria has traditionally attracted
individuals in search of a more
alternative lifestyle and the goods on
sale here often reflect that.
Memorable meals out are a vital part of the holiday experience for many
visitors. So what sort of food are you going to encounter in restaurants
on Lanzarote? What’s on a typical menu? And what are the local
specialties?
The accent is on hand produced art and
craft items as well as limited amounts
of locally grown fruit and veg, as well as
fresh produce such as goat’s cheese.
Blend Of Influences
There are a number of good bars and
restaurants in the square where you can
just sit and drink in the atmosphere.
In general, Canarian cuisine is a blend
of Spanish, African and Latin American
influences. Reflecting the island’s
geographical position as a staging and
one time trading post between these
points of the compass in centuries past.
Whilst serious shoppers will find Haria
less engaging than Teguise Market,
those who want nothing more than a
relaxed browse in a more atmospheric
environment should head here.
Fish versus Flesh
You could be forgiven for thinking
that fish dishes dominate. But despite
being an island race the Canarians in
fact eat less fish than their mainland
counterparts.
Arrecife Market - Saturday
Arrecife Market is staged in the old
quarter of the capital city - in and around
El Charco and the Church de San Gines and is an entertaining place to spend
the morning. With stalls selling arts
and crafts as well as food and drink
and much more besides.
Other Island Markets
Marina Rubicon - Playa Blanca
There’s usually plenty of entertainment
on offer too in the form of local folkore
groups. Parking can be tricky in the
capital so head for the rough ground
by El Charco where you can leave
your car for a couple of euros.
Every Wednesday and Saturday from
09.00 to 14.00 in the atmospheric
surroundings of the Marina Rubicon in
Playa Blanca. Around 30 stalls mostly
selling clothing and general souvenirs.
Artisan Market - Mancha Blanca
Every Sunday from 09.00 to 14.00, with
the accent on local arts and crafts and
organically grown produce.
Traditional Market – Uga
Small twice weekly market from
09.00 to 14.00 every Saturday and
Sunday in the pretty little village of Uga,
close to Yaiza and the volcanic region.
44
This could possibly be a genetic
hangover from the original island
inhabitants, the Guanche. As they were,
apparently, lousy fishermen and excelled
instead at rearing livestock such as
goats and sheep.
Fishy Business
Meat Market
Despite the carnivorous preference
of the locals there is still of course a
good variety of local fish and seafood
to sample – the most common being
dorada, sama, vieja and cherne. These
are all tasty white fish and are usually
grilled (a la plancha) and served with
the ubiquitous papas arrugadas –
or wrinkled potatoes - possibly the
best known Canarian dish. Which are
basically baby spuds boiled, with their
skins on, in seawater.
As a result, even today, you’ll find that
goat features prominently on most
menus, along with other indigenous
animals such as rabbit, whilst baby kid
is regarded as something of a local
delicacy.
The Latin American connection comes
into play with other meat dishes –
especially beef – which is usually
imported from Argentina – and is of the
highest quality.
45
Mojos
One safe option for vegetarians however
are the local goat’s cheeses, which are
of particularly high quality – especially
those from Fuerteventura. These have
won all sorts of awards and accolades –
and usually feature as a starter in most
restaurants ‘tipico’.
Papas arrugadas are always served with
a variety of sauces - or mojos. Whilst
recipes vary from chef to chef you can
always guarantee that you’ll be given a
choice of at least two of these sauces to
pour onto your potatoes. The green mojo
is a blend of olive oil, vinegar, parsley,
coriander and garlic – whilst the fierier red
mojo contains the same oil and vinegar
base but with the additional kick of chilli
and red peppers.
Bards &
vineyards
Gofio
If you really want to really immerse
yourself in the traditional flavours of the
island then you’ll also need to sample
gofio – a flour made from ground and
toasted maize which was once the
staple diet of Lanzaroteños.
Soups and Stews
Soups and stews also feature heavily on
the traditional Canarian menu. One of
the most common is puchero, which is
pretty much a meal in itself. The classic
puchero contains a variety of meat cuts,
vegetables such as potatoes, carrots
and onion along with either lentils or
chickpeas to further thicken the mix.
Wine has been produced on Lanzarote for over 500 years. But there is
still debate about how vines were first introduced to the island.
Today gofio is used in a variety of
ways – often appearing as a thickening
agent in soups and stews as well as in a
number of sweet dessert dishes.
Wine Time
Most wine lists offer a selection of both
locally produced and mainland Spanish
wines. It is extremely rare to come
across bottles from other countries such
as France, Italy or the New World.
For Starters
These soups are often enjoyed as a
starter – but there are of course plenty
of alternative options, such as the everpopular gambas al ajillo, which is such
a staple on restaurant menus here that
it could almost be termed the Canarian
prawn cocktail. The gambas - or prawns are cooked with olive oil, brandy, chilli and
heaps of garlic and served sizzling hot –
usually with a good portion of bread for
dunking in the oil.
The Canaries used to be world leaders
in the production of sweet Malvaisa
wine-which still features widely on wine
lists today and which makes a good
accompaniment to dessert and coffee.
A number of good quality red, white
and rosé wines are also produced on
Lanzarote, such as El Grifo and Bermejo,
via a unique form of cultivation. To find
out more see Bards & Vineyards.
Vegging-Out
Whist vegetables are obviously used
in many traditional dishes vegetarian
options are virtually non-existent. As
meat or fish is usually added in some way
shape or form, even to green sounding
options such as watercress soup – which,
for example, often contains bacon.
were also well located for exporting it.
The Canaries perch on what was then the
key trade triangle between the Americas,
Africa and Europe.
The Rise & Fall Of Malvasia Wine
But I faith, you have drunk too
much canaries and that’s a
marvelous searching wine
Nectar of the Gods
— Henry IV
Canarian Malvasía wine was a prestigious
drink. Bottles graced the top tables of
kings and queens across Europe. It was
widely regarded by the cognoscenti as
‘the nectar of the gods’.
Some historians claim that vine stocks of
the sweet Malvasía grape from Greece
arrived with the Romans 1,000 years
ago. Others support the theory that the
Portuguese prince, Henry the Navigator,
transported vines here in the 15th century.
This was partly because medieval palettes
favoured sweet tasting drinks with a
strong bouquet, not least because sugar
was a luxury item. In addition they needed
something to counter the taste of salt, the
prevalent preservative of the time.
Either way for a couple of hundred
years during the 16th and 17th centuries
Canarian wines ruled the roost worldwide.
The same is also true of main course
dishes where vegetables are often little
more than a garnish accompanying fish
and meat dishes.
Malvasía fitted the bill perfectly and
this sweet, aromatic wine was to prove
especially popular in England, the major
market for exports.
Trade Triangle
Geography is partly to thank. As well as
providing conducive climactic conditions
for producing wine the seven islands
46
47
sugar cane. But exports had been
decimated by competition from the New
World colonies.
As a result, wine production provided
sweet relief. It became the foundation
for a period of prolonged prosperity on
Lanzarote.
Wine in Decline
Tastes change however. As do
tastemakers. In 1649 Charles II came to
the throne in that all important export
market, England.
William Shakespeare
Sadly for Lanzarote’s farmers the new
King was a sherry man. His courtiers and
countrymen soon followed suit and the
popularity of Malvasía began to drain
away.
Perhaps this was partly attributable to
the power of PR. William Shakespeare
no less was fulsome in his praise of
‘malmsey’ or ‘sack’ (as Malvasía was
often called then). So much so that
references crop up in thirty of his works.
Britain’s growing enmity with Spain
finally burst the bubble. The British
began to boycott Spanish wines in the
late 17th century, both to better support
their ally Portugal and to undermine
their enemy.
He certainly had a vested interest in
promoting the stuff. As poet laureate
he enjoyed an annual allowance of 268
gallons from the Crown, free of charge.
Maybe he was simply swayed by the
high alcohol content. Malvasía then had
more in common with sherry or port
than the table wines of today.
Madeira became the drink of choice.
Malvasía a memory.
Last Orders
Vine Time
The Malvasía grape is still cultivated
on Lanzarote today, albeit in smaller
quantities. It accounts for around 75% of
all wine production on the island.
For farmers in Lanzarote the arrival of
Malvasía vines was extremely timely.
Previously the primary crop had been
Lanzarote
essentials
It’s always good to know where to get
the best exchange rate, what are the
shop opening hours and what to do in
the event of an emergency.
Some banks will ask you to present
your passport in order to process the
transaction.
Some banks charge commission – ask
before making the transaction.
Arrecife Airport
Cash point machines are located at
reasonably frequent intervals throughout
all of the main resorts.
Arrecife Airport isn’t in fact in Arrecife
at all. The airport is known locally as
Guacimeta and is located equidistantly
between the resort of Puerto del
Carmen and the capital city of Arrecife.
Both are no more than 10 minutes from
the airport by taxi.
Bureau De Change
Bureau de Change offices are situated
in the three main resorts and offer rates
that are competitive with the local banks.
See Transfers below for estimated
journey times to other resorts on
the island.
A number of shops – such as those
selling electrical goods - also offer an
exchange facility. Their rates can appear
competitive – usually because they solely
advertise the higher rate for traveller’s
cheques. Make sure you are on the ball
and don’t expect a receipt if you use this
sort of facility.
Banks
Generally, open from 8.30am until
14.00pm, Monday to Friday.
All banks are happy to exchange your
sterling (or travellers cheques) for Euros
and generally speaking you are likely
to get a better rate here than if you
exchange your money before leaving
the UK.
Buses
Cheap and reasonably reliable if you are
in the main resorts along the south east
coast of the island but less so within the
island interior.
You will also usually get a better
exchange rate here than at your
hotel reception.
For sightseeing, we recommend hiring
a car. Car hire and petrol here is cheap
but your holiday time here is precious.
So you probably don’t want to spend it
hanging around at bus stops.
You can check rates on the display
boards in each bank. There is little to no
variation between the rates that different
banks offer.
48
49
Christmas Opening
Electrical Goods
Petrol
Telephones
Most supermarkets and restaurants
in Lanzarote open as per normal
throughout the Christmas period.
Buyer Beware. Especially when it comes
to buying electrical goods on Lanzarote.
Far cheaper than in the UK. There are
petrol stations located in and round the
three main resorts.
Public telephones are located throughout
the main resorts.
There are plenty of electrical shops in the
resorts offering tempting looking deals
on goods such as digital cameras. And
whilst not all of them are untrustworthy
there are probably more complaints
made about these retailers than any
other issue.
Crossing Roads
Unlike the UK or Ireland drivers here are
not obliged to stop for you at what pass
for pedestrian crossings. So don´t just
step out and expect them to stop. Wait
for a break in the traffic instead.
So unless you really know what you’re
doing – don’t bother.
Dimensions & Distances
Lanzarote is a small island – which makes
everything here very accessible and
sightseeing easy.
Insects
As in most hot countries mosquitoes and
flies are present and can be a nuisance.
But unless you are allergic that’s all they
are really and can usually be dealt with
by use of mosquito repellant and plugins.
The island covers a square area of just
846 km – making it possible to drive
from one end to the other in around an
hour or so.
Driving
Cockroaches can also crop up – but
again they come with the territory here.
Apart from the obvious fact that you
need to drive on the opposite side of the
road there are, as you would expect, a
number of other cultural differences.
Internet Access
Is now available as standard in most
hotels and apartments – although more
often than not in a designated area
rather than within bedrooms.
For example, indicating is deemed
optional and lane discipline at
roundabouts is non-existent.
There are also Internet cafes and WiFi
hotspots in the three main resorts.
But don’t be put off. Once you get out
of the resorts and off the bigger roads
there’s hardly any traffic to contend with
anyway.
Opening Hours
In resort, most shops are open
from 9.00am until 20.00pm. Many
supermarkets are open even later
than this. Out of resort, in Arrecife for
example, shops close from 14.00pm17.00pm.
Electricity
The electrical system is different to
the UK or Ireland – utilising two pin
connector plugs operating at 220 volts.
Telephone Code
Pharmacies
If calling a Lanzarote number from either
the UK or Ireland you will need to add
the prefix 0034.
There are a number of pharmacies
located in all three of the main resorts
– as indicated by the large green
illuminated crosses.
Time
Unlike mainland Spain, Lanzarote runs
on Greenwich Mean Time. So there is no
need to adjust your watch.
There is a duty pharmacy open seven
days a week, so in the event of an
emergency consult reception at your
accommodation.
Transfer Times
Post Offices
From Arrecife Airport by Taxi:
To Costa Teguise 15-20mins
To Matagorda 5-10 mins
To Playa Blanca 35-40 mins
To Puerto Calero 15-20 mins
To Puerto del Carmen 10-15mins
There are main Post Offices located in
all three main resorts of Costa Teguise,
Playa Blanca and Puerto del Carmen.
Stamps
Are available from most supermarkets
and usually from the reception area of
your accommodation.
Vaccinations
However, you usually have to buy a
postcard first as many will not sell
stamps separately.
Visas
No inoculations are required.
EU passport holders do not need a visa
to enter Lanzarote.
Taxis
Water
Taxis are metered. They can be flagged
down in the street as in the UK when the
green light on the roof of the vehicle is
on.
Wash in it, bathe in it, brush your
teeth in it ….but don’t drink it. It’s not
dirty or contaminated in any way, it’s
just desalinated and not designed for
consumption. Bottled water is much,
much cheaper than the UK – especially
if you buy the large 5 litre bottles sold in
the supermarkets.
Taxi queues at the airport can be lengthy
– especially on main changeover days
such as Thursdays.
Sun Park
Lanzarote
So you will need to buy an adaptor plug
to use any appliances that you bring with
you. These are readily available in most
supermarkets on the island.
www.fabulouslanzarote.com
50
51
Getting around
lanzarote transport
There are a number of different
options available if you want to
travel around Lanzarote, including
public bus services, private
transfers and of course car hire.
You could also book a guided tour
in order to explore the island.
Taxis From Arrecife Airport
Taxis in Resort
The taxi rank is located directly outside
the arrival hall at Terminal 1.
Taxis are a relatively cheap way of
getting round your resort as short hops
usually cost little more than a few euros.
During peak holiday periods passengers
can be subjected to queues for taxis
on arrival – especially on days such as
Thursdays (the main changeover day
on the island) and during the busiest
periods of the year.
A taxi is free for hire when displaying a
green light and can be flagged down in
the street. Alternatively, there are taxi
ranks throughout all of the main resorts.
Taxi ranks can also be contacted direct
for bookings – however it is pot luck
as to whether the person answering
your call can speak sufficient English to
understand you.
Taxis are metered. Tipping is at your
own discretion. Passenger numbers are
limited to four people per taxi.
Lanzarote Airport Transfers
Public Bus Limitations
the main bus depot in the nearby island
capital of Arrecife and the airport.
It´s important to note though that public
bus services are a little limited - there
is no transfer service from the airport
to the main resorts and many of the
main attractions are also not serviced.
However car hire in Lanzarote is very
affordable - starting from around ¤15 per
day - and petrol is much cheaper than in
the UK. So for many tourists this is the
best and most convenient option.
Lanzarote Car Hire
You can pre-book airport transfers to
your destination and save queuing
on arrival.
Cheap and arguably the most convenient
form of transport for anyone seeking to
discover the island at their own pace.
There are many different companies to
choose from – all in truth offering fairly
similar levels of pricing and service.
This service runs is in the opposite
direction to the resorts of Playa Blanca,
Puerto del Carmen and Matagorda.
So unless you have a lot of time to kill
or are on a very tight budget this is
not the best option for reaching your
accommodation quickly and comfortably.
Tourists staying in Costa Teguise
however can take the bus to Arrecife bus
station and then get a connection onto
Costa Teguise from there. Again, this
would be a relatively time consuming
option – despite the short distances
involved.
The public bus service runs directly from
outside the arrivals hall at Terminal 1.
The bus line number is 22 or 23. Journey
time from the airport to the bus depot in
Arrecife is around 20 minutes. The fare is
approximately ¤1.
Buses To & From Arrecife Airport
Most tourists are transferred to their
resort accommodation by coach,
courtesy of their tour operators, or by
taxi. There are no airport shuttle buses
to the main resorts. So anyone visiting
Lanzarote is advised to arrange an
airport transfer or pre-book car rental.
Buses Around The Island
Want to travel under your own steam on
public transport? Lanzarote Bus page
timetables are available locally.
There is a public bus that services
Arrecife Airport. However, this route is
very limited - running solely in between
52
53
Lanzarote
weather & MAP
When’s the best time of year to visit?
What´s the weather like in any given
month? How hot does it get?
as predictable as they once were.
And even Lanzarote can have cloudy,
grey days.
Lanzarote is a year round, sunshine
destination with very low rainfall. The
temperature rarely falls below 68-70oF
– so you can enjoy a beach holiday here
any time of year. And that includes all of
the months when Northern Europe is in
the depths of winter.
You are, as a rule, more likely to get
hot sunny weather during the summer
months.
And most long-term residents would
agree that September and October
are probably the best months of the
year weather wise. As the trade winds
that blow through March-August have
usually dropped by then.
But, just like any other part of the world
these days weather conditions are not
Prices from
£9.50
per day per person
Life
begins
at
50
COME TO OUR STAND TO HEAR ABOUT OUR SHOW SPECIALS
Living
Living
Sun Park is an inspiring home-from-home
community for active independent singles
and couples over 50. A unique complex of
self-catering apartments set amidst beautiful
tropical gardens with its own on-site cafe,
shop, bar, and private pool, in the heart of the
popular resort of Playa Blanca, Lanzarote.
· Enjoy a perfect year-round climate
· Exclusive private resort for over 50s
· Stay for as long as you like*
· Safe, secure and friendly community
close to all local amenities and shops
The unique and welcoming community spirit
at Sun Park quickly embraces you and you’ll
soon feel part of a much wider group of
friends. Sun Park offers safety, security and a
ready made group of friends and companions!
Visit www.fabulouslanzarote.com
or call our friendly team on 0844 826 8503
*Minimum 7 nights. Calls will cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s access charge.
54
Holidays to Sun Park
are operated by
The air holiday packages and
flights shown are ATOL protected
by the Civil Aviation Authority.
Our ATOL number is 10423
Did you
Guide price
Know
Lanzarote
is home to
approximately
150,000 people
Lanzarote is the
Eastern most
island of the
Canary Islands
It’s main
economy is
tourism
There are 500
different kinds
of plants
Setting for famous
films – One Million
Years BC & In the
Heart of the Sea
The Stone Roses
filmed ‘Fools
Gold’ & ‘I wanna
be adored’ on
the island
4.99€
Lanzarote is
home to 5,000
British nationals
It’s main airport
is Arrecife
(ACE)
There are 180
different species
of lich-forming
funghi
Home to one
of 2 surviving
populations of
the threatened
Canarian
Egyptian vulture
The Wind of the
Small Isles by Mary
Stewart features
Playa Blanca
We hope you enjoyed this guide which has been compiled by
Sun Park, Europe’s Favourite Over 50s Resort.
Sun Park is operated by
www.fabulouslanzarote.com