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JCPENNEY SEWING MACH
INE
Record in space provided bel
ow the Serial No.
and Model No. of this applian
ce.
The Serial No. is located Rear
of arm.
The Model No. is located Rear
of arm.
Ser
ial
No
.
Model No. 6560 Catalog No
.868-1769
Retain these numbers for fut
ure reference
.
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
5
5
FOR YOUR CONVENIEN
CE A TOLL FREE NUMB
ER IS
AVAILABLE FOR ANY QU
ESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE
ABOUT YOUR JCPENNEY
SEWING MACHINE. CA
LL
800-321-1644, OHIO CA
LL COLLECT 216-252-33
70,
CALLING HOURS 8:00
AM TO 5:00 PM EASTE
RN
STANDARD TIME.
TO OUR VALUED CUST
OMER
You are now the owner of
a new zig zag sewing
machine,
the most versatile type of
its kind you can possess.
Buttonholes, monogrammi
ng, overcasting and
embroidery are done with
creative
ease and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the
greatest performance fro
m your
new sewing machine, thi
s book on its care and use
has been
written for you. Read the ins
tructions carefully, as
a thorough
understanding of your machi
ne will reward you with
many hours
of trouble-free creative sew
ing.
This manual is divided into
eight separate sections.
section deals with one spe
Each
cial portion of your sewing
machine.
For example:
1. “GETTING READY TO SEW
” explains the basic functio
ns
your machine; how to thread
your machine, wind bob of
bins,
etc.
2. “STRAIGHT AND ZIG ZA
G” explains the uses of
straight
sewing, zig zag stitches and
use of the built in utility
stitches.
3. “TVVIN NEEDLE SEWING
” explains how to use a twi
n needle
and the application of twi
n needle sewing.
4. “BUTTONHOLES” exp
lains four different styles of
buttonholes.
5. “STRETCH UTILITY STI
TCHES” explains the use
of elastic
triple stretch stitches.
6. “FUN STITCHES DECORA
TIVE” explains the use of
stretch
stitches as decorations by
adding the fun stitches,
swans,
flowers, etc., to garments
.
7. “FEATURES AND PA
RTS” explains many par
ts and features
of your machine.
8. “CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
” explains maintenance,
oiling,
minor problems and soluti
ons, alphabetical index.
Also included in the front por
tion of this manual is a
table
of contents and glossary of
terms to further aid you
to enjoy
your sewing machine.
J. C. Penney Co.
CO
NTENTS
Introduction
/Contents
Glossary of Sewin
g Machine And Se
wing Terms
GETTING READY
TO
Parts Description SEW
Installing Sewing
Head
To Connect Foot Co in Portable Case
ntrol Wires
Installing Sewing
Head in Cabine
t
Changing Presser
Foot
ChangingThe N
eedle
Changing The Bo
bbin
Windingihe Bo
bbin
Threading The Bo
bbin Case
‘
Adjusting Bobbin
Tension
Upper Threadin
g
Picking Up Lo
wer Bobbin Thread
Twin Needle U
pper Threading
‘
Feed Dog Heigh
t
Adjusting Upper
Tension
a
Fabric Thread A
nd Needle Chart
Basic Needle Info
rmation
Decorative Stitc
h Control
Zig Zag Width Co
ntrol
Stitch Length Di
al
Stitch Length
Guide
Reverse Stitch Bu
tton
STRAIGHT AN
D Z1GZAG
APPLICATIO
NS OF THE STRA
IGHT STITCH
Seams
Basting/Topsti
tching
Darning
Elastic Thread
Shirring
Holding The Fa
bric
Turning Corn
ers
Curved Seams
Ending Seam/R
emoval of Fabr
ic
APPLICATIO
NS OF THE ZIGZ
AG STITCH
Overcasting
Seaming Knits
Sewing on Butto
ns
Forming Thread
Shank on Butto
n
Satin Stitching
Tapering/Crea
tive Embroide
ry
Manual Embroi
dery Designs
Free Hand Mon
ogramming
Applique
Gathering Over
Cord
APPLICATIO
NS OF THE MUL
TIPLE STITCH
Overcasting
ZIGZAG
Patching
Mending A Tear
Or Instant Dar
ning
Lace Applicatio
n
Flutter Hem
Elastic Applic
ation
Understitching
Facings
Decorative Ef
fects
APPLICATIO
NS OF THE ST
RETCH BLIND
Hemming
HEM
Edging
Eyelash Buttonh
ole
Decorative Stitc
hes
Shell Tuck As
Decorative
Inserting Lace
APPLICATIO
NS OF THE BL
IND HEM ST1T
Blind Hemmin
CH
g
Coy
2
2
2
2
V.
2
22
22
22
23
23
23
24
24
25
25
25
26
26
27
27
27
28
28
29
29
30
30
31
31
31
32
32
32
33
Shell Tuck
Decorative Effects
34
Topstitching Effects
34
TWIN NEEDLE SEV
ING
34
Twin Needle Upper
Threading
Twin Needle Sewing
35
Effects
Decorative TucksO
35
Designs
Pin Tucks
36
BUTTONHOLES
36
Preparation
Determine Length/Wi
37
dth
Built in Buttonholes
38
Cutting Buttonholes
38
Eyelash Buttonholes
39
Turn Around Button
39
holes
Corded Buttonholes
40
Stretch Buttonholes
41
STRETCH UTILITY
STITCHES
42
APPLICATION OF TH
E STRAIGHT TRIPL
E STRETCH STITCH
Seams
Topstitching
43
APPLICATIONS OF
43
THE RICK RACK
Topstitching/Rick Rac
k
Tapering/Rick Rack
44
APPLICATIONS STR
44
ETCH OVERLOCK
Stretch Overlock
APPLICATIONS OF
45
THE TRICOT STITCH
Lingerie Seam And
Inserting Lace
APPLICATIONS OF
45
THE OVERLOCK STITC
H
Seaming
Hemstitching Eff
46
ect
Topstitching Overloc
46
k
APPLICATIONS OF
47
THE ULTRA STRETC
H STITCH
Seaming
FUN STITCHES DE
CORATIVE
48
APPLICATIONS OF
THE DECORATIVE FU
N PATTERNS
WaveFish SwanTuli
p,Briar Fun Stitch
es
Creative Patterns Con
49
trol
Fun Pattern Cams
50
FEATURES & PARTS
51/52
& ACCESSORIES
Accessories
Changing Foot
53
Buttonhole Foot
54
Button Sewing Foot
55
Buttonholes Cutter
56
Zipper Foot And Inse
56
rt Cord
Cloth Guide And Qui
57
lting Guide
CARE OF YOUR MA
CHINE
58
Maintenance
Cleaning
59
Oiling
59
Changing Light Bulb
60
MINOR PROBLEMS
60
AND SOLUTIONS
Skipped Stitches
Thread Breaking
61
Needle Comes Unthre
61
aded
Needle Breaks
62
Material Puckers
62
Threads Jam at Sta
62
rt of Sewing
Machine Noisy
62
Bobbin Does Not Win
62
d Properly
Index
62
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
..
.
.
.
63/65
GLOSSARY OF SEWIN
G MACHINE TERMS
ACCESSORY BOX
For storage of extra feet
, needles, bobbins
and accessories
BOBBIN CASE
Holds bobbin.
Holds thread in bobbin
cas
upper and lower tension e and balances
threads.
BOBBIN TENSION SCREW
To adjust the tension
of bobbin case.
BOBBIN WINDING
For winding bobbin wit
SPI N DLE
h thread.
BOBBIN WINDING STOP
For automatically stoppin
g bobbin at full
capacity
CABINET
Used to mount sewing
machine in furniture;
also a storage area for
machine.
CAM DOOR
Located on the top of
the machine. access
to place cams.
CAMS
Plastic cam inserts which
will perform
numerous designs.
CREATIVE PATTERN
A dial located on the bac
k portion of the arm
CONTROL
used to elongate or con
strict a stretch pattern
DROP FEED LEVER
For lowering the feed
dog
FACE COVER
Snaps open for changing
the bulb.
Also provides easy access
to needle and
presser bar assembly for
oiling.
FEED DOG
For feeding material through
machine.
FOOT CONTROL
For activating power to the
machine. amount
of pressure exerted on the
foot pedal controls
the speed; attached wires
plug into machine
and wall socket.
H A N DWH EEL
tiirn
BOBBIN CASE
TENSION SPRING
tnn rnrrhnicm h\ han
d ta hrnn
PORTABLE CASE
PRESSER BAR
PRESSER FOOT
PRESSER FOOT LIFTER
PRESSER FOOT
THUMB SCREW
RACE
REVERSE STITCH
BUTTON
SELECTOR LEVER
SHUTTLE
SHUTTLE COVER
SHUTTLE DRIVER
SHUTTLE RACE
COVER CLAMPS
SLIDE PLATE
SOCKET
A receptacle to store a sew
ing machine when
not in use
Controls the pressure exe
rted on various
materials being sewn
When lowered onto materia
l it holds the
material against the feed
dog.
For raising the lowering
the presser bar and
presser foot. When raised,
the tension is
released and when lowered
, the tension is
engaged
For fastening presser foo
t and attachments
to the presser bar.
Groove in which shuttle turn
s.
For changing from forw
ard to reverse
direction, button must be
held in for
continuous reverse sewing
.
Used to insert cams, mak
e buttonholes,
and straight and zig zag stitc
hes.
For forming lock stitch.
For holding shuttle in race
,
For turning shuttle in race
.
For fastening the race cov
er onto the race.
Access to bobbin case and
bobbin, slides
forward and back.
Located under the face cov
er to change the
light bulb.
APPLIQUE
GLOSSARY OF SEWING TE
RMS
)
BASTING
BLIND HEM
BUTTONHOLE
COUCHING
‘
‘
DARNING
EMBROIDERY
FACING
FUN STITCHES
GATHERING
Applying a material with a spe
cific design
onto another material by usin
g a straight
or zigzag stitch.
To sew with a temporary stitc
h that can be
removed with ease. This is
possible by using
the longest straight stitch,
setting your top
tension on “0’ and sewing
a line o stitches.
The top stitch will be loose
and the bottom
stitch tight; this allows you
to be able to
remove the lower thread by
pulling It may
be necessary to cut the low
er thread at
different points for easier
removal
A variation of the zigzag
stitch used to
finish a hem where you can
control the
holding stitch.
A means of strengthening the
sides of a hole
in cloth by a zigzag stitch
to hold a button
To fasten down another mat
erial, like a ribbon
lace, with a fine zigzag stitc
h.
A method of repairing a rip
or tear by
stitching over the flaw.
To decorate with stitching,
using either a
straight or zigzag stitch.
The addition of another piec
e of material to
increase the body or edge of
material.
A triple stretch pattern used
mainly as
decorative, can be sewn with
one or twin
needle.
Forming a zigzag stitch ove
r cord, elastic,
or any separate material
;
SATIN STITCH
SEAM
SHELL TUCK
SHIRRING
STRAIGHT STITCH
STRETCH BUTTONHOLE
STRETCH STITCH
TAPERING
THREAD SHANK
TQPSTITCHING
TRICOT STITCH
A solid line of zig zag stitching
formed by a
zigzag stitch sewn very close
together.
A line formed when sewing two
pieces of
material together.
The use of the zigzag or varia
tion of the
zigzag stitch to give a shell effec
t to the
edge of material.
To gather cloth by drawing two
or more
threads together.
A forward or reverse single line
of sewing
which may vary from 6 to 8
stitches per
inch to “0’ stitches.
A buttonhole made with a stret
ch stitch
pattern to be used on double knits
,
sweaters, etc.
A combination of stitches form
ed by a
forward and backward motion
which
allows the stitches to flex and not
break,
used on stretch materials, doub
le knits,
tricot, lingerie, etc.
A line of zigzag sewing varying
from a
narrow to a wide range.
A space composed of thread
between the
button and cloth to engage
button to
buttonhole on bulky material.
A line or series of lines of straight
or zigzag
sewing which enhances a bord
er giving
the stitching a raised effect.
A triple stretch pattern used to
finish
Parts Description
3
3
3
3
3
1 Thread guide for bobbin
winding
2 Take-up lever
3 Upper thread tension dial
4 Face cover
5 Thread guide for upper thr
eading
6 Presser foot thumb screw
7 Presser foot
8 Drop feed lever
9 Slide plate
10 Spool pins (retractable>
I
1
0
15 Bobbin winding spindle
16 Bobbin winding stop
1 7 Handwheel
18 Stop motion knob
19 Socket
20 Cam door
2 1 Thread guide for
upper threading
22 Creative pattern
control
23 Light Switch
24 Presser foot lifter
25 Thread cutter
Installing Sewing Head in Portable Case
3
Please read these important instructions which were written to aid
you in placing your new sewing machine in its portable case.
First remove the foot control which is fastened inside the packing to
avoid damage in shipping. After unpacking the sewing machine unit.
being certain to take out the instruction book, guarantee and accesso
ry box, lay the unit face down on a table. You will see two clamping
screws A entering head hinge holes B on the underside of the back.
On the base you will find two head hinges C which will fit into holes B
Lower the base onto the sewing machine fitting hinges C into holes B
Tighten screws A securely with a screw driver.
3
3
5
LFTh
il\
PORTABLE CASE
4
r
A
S
1
S
S
S
B
uNDER SIDE OF
MACHINE
Place the foot control on the floor, and you are ready to sew. But
first
read the instruction book to become familiar with the threading
of
the machine, tension adjustments and all the other features designed
to make sewing a pleasure.
To Connect The Foot Control Wires
‘Connect special plug to the block on machine located behind the
arm
portion, as shown in diagram.
•Connect the outlet plug to the electrical outlet. (110-115 volts>
When sewing, keep children’s hands away from the foot control
and wiring.
‘After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical outlet.
‘,
P
Installing Sewing Head in Cabinet
1 Loosen both head hinge set screws until head hinge hole is clear.
2. Tilt head hinge fingers up and back as far as they will go
3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges—making sure fingers are
inserted as far as they can go into head hinge holes.
4. Allow the head to rest in its tilted back position.
5. Tighten both set screws securely with screw driver.
p
—8
—
Changing Presser Foot
)
Raise the needle bar to the highest posi
tion by turning the handwheel
toward you, and raise the presser foot
by lifting lever J
To remove the presser foot:
Remove foot by loosening screw
with screwdriver.
)
To attach the presser foot:
Replace new foot by inserting
and the slots on the foot to be
screw.
Extra lift is available under the
as possible and placing bulk
the holding shank over the presser
bar
in line with the holding screw. Tigh
ten
presser foot by lifting the lever as high
material under the foot.
—9
—
p.
Changing The Needle
Proper needle
straight shaft
sharp point
•Always make sure needle is straight.
‘To check straightness of needle, lay needle on flat
a
surface and see
the needle is straight and parallel as shown in
above diagram.
‘Turn handwheel toward you to raise needle
bar to its highest
position
‘Loosen needle clamp screw and insert needle upward
as far as it will
go, making sure flat side of needle Is towards
back of machine as
shown in the above diagram.
Tighten needle clamp screw.
‘Follow the same procedure for insertion of twin
needle.
•To make sure that needle has been inserted correct
ly, turn handwheel toward you and see that needle comes down
through the
center of the needle hole in the needle plate as shown
in the above
diagram.
•Zigzag width control lever must be set in zero
position when
checking needle alignment.
‘If skipped stitches occur, needle may be incorre
ctly inserted.
—10—
Changing The Bobbin
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
To remove the bobbin from bobbin
case:
3 ‘Raise needle bar to
its highest position. Bobbin
case cannot be
3 removed when needle bar is at low position.
3
F,
‘Open slide plate,pull bobbin case latch with
two fingers and remove
bobbin case as shown above.
‘Remove bobbin from bobbin cas
e by releasing latch
3
3
3
Notch
Finger
-3
3
3
3
3
3
3
5
3
To attach the bobbin case:
‘Thread bobbin as shown on page
1 3.
‘Pull thread at least 6 inches from
bobbin.
‘Making sure that needle bar is at its
highest position insert bobbin
case into shuttle race by holding bobb
in case latch. Make sure
bobbin case finger is inside shuttle not
ch.
‘Press bobbin case into shuttle as far
as possible until latch catches
on center post of the shuttle.
3
3
3
I,
‘5
(5
‘5
K—.
—11—
b
Winding The Bobbin
N
To disengage the handwheel:
•HoId the handwheel with left hand, turn
stop motion knob
counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown
LTh
To wind thread onto bobbin:
•Lead thread through spring thread guide and through one of the hole
in your bobbin from the inside out, or make several turns around
the bobbin.
•Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft.
Push the bobbin winder to the right
•Hold loose end of thread firmly and turn handwheel to make thread
tight. Apply gradual pressure on foot pedal until the bobbin
disengages and stops turning.
•Cut off loose end of thread.
troubie
correction
If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open face cover and loosen
set-screw of the guide for bobbin winding. Adjust as shown.
b
—
12—
—
Threading The Bobbin Case
Pull thread at least 6
inches
from
bobbin
insert bobbin in bobbin
case so that thread will
unravel clockwise.
4’
3
3
—
3
3
3
Pull thread into slot of
bobbin case as shown a
3
3
3
3
3
Draw thread under the
tension spring and into
the fork-shaped open
ing of the spring as
shown b.
3
3
C,
C,
C,
C,
C)
C,
C)
C,
C,
To Adjust Bobbin Tension:
First check upper tension, mak
e sure
tension knob is set at “5”
position.
•Turn screw on side of bobb
in case
clockwise to increase tension.
•Turn screw on side of bobb
in case
counterclockwise to decrease
tension.
Caution: Turn adjustment screw
turn at a time so the screw
will not
disengage from spring.
CORRECT
INCORRECT
TOP TENSION TIGHT
BOTTOM TENSION LOOSE
INCORRECT
TOP TENSION LOOSE
BOTTOM TENSION TIGHT
—13--
1
-
Upper Threading
•
p
p
p
•Raise needle bar to its highest position.
•Raise presser foot.
Lead thread through top plate thread guide 1 and between
tension
discs 2 Tension is divided in center by a larger disc, thread
to
the right side of disc.
•Pull thread down around arm thread guide J3 and
up to takeup lever 4
•Lead thread through slot on take-up lever from right to left and
down through thread guide , hooking thread into guide.
•Pull thread down through needle clamp guide 6 and through
needle hole from front to rear 7
•Always use the same type of thread on top and bottom
as different
sizes or types of thread will cause tension proble
ms.
Example: Polyester thread on the bobbin and cotton
thread on top
will result in poor tension quality.
b
—14—
Picking-Up Lower Bobbin Thread
1,t
Hold end of upper thread with left
hand.
Turn handwheel slowly towards you
until needle moves dow
n and
up again.
Pull upper thread slowly and lower
thread will be brought up in a loop
.
15
,
Pull out both threads to
about 1 5cm (6”) and place
them together
under presser foot and
to the left.
—15—
Twin Needle Upper Thr
eading
H
Follow threading instruction for
single needle with these exc
eptions
Place thread, matching or con
trasting in color, on both Spoo
l pins
•Draw threads through the thre
ad guides as normal, but separat
e the
threads at the tension, pass one
thread through the left side disc
and
one thread through the right side
disc. Tension discs are divided
in
center by a flat slightly raised disc.
SNow treat both threads as one until
you reach the needle eyes,
one
thread through the left needle eye
and the other through the right
needle eye,pull both threads back
and to the left as in normal sew
ing.
Caution: Zigzag width cont
rol, set at desired width
between “0”
and “2” if you set the control
higher than 2, the needle will
hit the
needle plate and break.
STITCH LENGTH Set at desired
stitch length.
‘I
Feed Dog Height
The drop feed lever is unde
r the slide plate.
To lower feed dog, move
lever to *. position.
This position is for button
sewing, darning and embroide
ry.
For normal sewing, move lever
to
position.
—16—
Adjusting Upper Tension
-3
3
3
3
3 •To increase upper tension, turn upper tension dial to higher
n urn be r
S ‘To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension dial
to lower
n urn be r
‘Turning tension dial from ‘0” to “9” will increase tension
S Normal sewing is performed between “4’ and “5’.
S Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone a 4, 5 and 6
for regular cotton threads.
3
5
5
FigProper Tension
Fig
-‘
Upper Thread Tension Too Loose
.5
Fig-
—
v_i
— — —
;;
—
.•:•
Upper Thread Tension Too Tight
•A perfect straight stitch will be formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric as shown in Fig. (I
‘When using the zigzag stitch for embroidery (satin stitching),
decrease upper tension so that top surface will look smooth at the
expense of the bottom surface.
‘5
(S
‘S
5
a
a
—17—
•
4)
4)
11V
4)
4’
4)
I-)
V
•‘
V
KNITS—fake furs, velours, sweater
LEATHERS—vinyls, plastics
)
V
,
V
,,
V
.
V
LEATHER—vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric
H EAVY—overcoatings. canvas, upholstery, awning
4
V
t
4
,
4’
4’
4
4’
MEDIUM HEAVY—gabardine, tweed sailcloth, denim,
duck, coatings, wools, drapery
KNITS—double knit, power net
LIGHTWEIGHT—batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, silk,
crepe, chiffon, velvet
KNITS—tricot, brushed tricot, jerseys, synthetic leather
s, power net
LEATHERS—plastic film, vinyls
MEDIUM WEIGHT—gingham, percale, linen, chintz,
faille, satin, corduroy, velvet,
suitings, wools, pique, terry
KNITS—jersey, double knit power net, bathing suits
LEATHERS—vinyls, plastic film
KNITS—sheer tricot
DELICATE—tulle, chiffon, voile, fine lace, organdy,
lawn, crepe, taffeta
FAB R IC
90
80
70
100
110
,,
,,
4’
Wedge point
heavy ball point
18
Wedge point
heavy ball point
16
Wedge point
light or medium ball point
14
Wedge point
light baIl point
11
light ball point
3
NEEDLE (Long Scarf)
HAx1 130/705H
European
Fabric, Thread And Needle Chart
1-3/4—2
2-1/2—3
1-3/4—2
,
,
Heavy Duty Mercerized
European 30
Synthetic
2-1/2—4
-
1-1/4—1-3/4
STITCH
LENGTH
SElliNG
2-1/2—3
Mercerized 50
Heavy Duty Mercerized 2—2-1/2
European 30
“A” Silk
2-1/2—3
Synthetic
Mercerized 50
European 30
“A” Silk
Synthetic
Fine mercerized 60
European 50—70
Fine Synthetics
“A” Silk
Fine mercerized 60
European 50—70
“A” Silk
Fine Synthetics
THREAD
,
.p
,
3
4)
4)
Flat
Point
,
/ Round
4)
i.
4)
4)
n
4,
4)
4)
%,
4)
Medium Ball
Point Needle
Long Groove
(Round Side of Needle)
Shaft
Basic Needle Information
4)
A))purpose
Needle
Short Groove
(Flat Side of Needle)
.
Ey
4)
Regular Sharp
Needle
4)
.
..
4)
Long Groove
.
Body
4)
Eye
Short Groove
Elongated Scarf
4)
Wedge Point
Needle
HI
IhiIll
..
Li
Ef11
4)
U
—
-
Li
Li
Li
Li
4)
Decorative Stitch Control
I
Selector Lever
Your machine is equipped to produce all the necessary stitches
for
sewing on the various knits and stretch fabrics available on
the
market today.
Sewing on the knits and how to produce the decorative stitche
s
designs will be described later in this book.
To sew the straight and zigzag stitches be sure your machine is
set
as follows:
(1) Open cam door to be sure the zigzag cam is in place. If not,
replace with zigzag cam.
(2) Set selector lever at its extreme left hand position “Cam Release”.
(3) Lift cam out and replace with the zigzag cam.
Place zigzag cam on stud and with a slight downward pressure
turn cam until drive pin enters hole in cam.
(4) Return selector lever to the zigzag position “sew’
Zigzag width control
,.-“.
Set control at required
number. Larger the number, wider the stitch.
Set it at 0 for straight
sewing.
Make sure needle is in upper
position when you set con
trol
I
0. ‘I .2 .3.4
Stitch length dial
Set dial at indicating point
according to stitch size
required.
01234
For a longer stitch, turn dial
downwards. For a shorter
stitch, turn it upwards.
I
For normal sewing it is set
between 2 and 3.
For buttonholes set at colored
dots between 0 and 1.
I
I
I
I
I
i
4
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
i
Stitch length guide
Numbers on dial
0
1
2
3
4
Stitches per inch
No Feed
24
12
8
6
Reverse stitch button:
•Used for reverse stitching
r tacking.
•Keeping the button pressed
in will allow you to sew a
reverse stitch continuously.
—20—
push
V
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH
Seams
The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen
should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics
require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitche
s
For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length
to add
strength and elasticity to the seam.
3
3
3
3
Pattern
Length 2-4
Width 0
Feed DogAA
Foot: All Purpose
—
_)
3
—
—
Basting/Topstitching
Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior
to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straight stitch.
For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded
through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole
twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needle(size
16 or 1 8). Basting instructions in glossary.
Pattern
Length 4
Width 0
Feed Dog:AA
Foot: All Purpose
Darning
Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an emb
roidery hoop is optional depending on the fabric. A fine thread is reco
mmended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly.
Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to
start, then move the fabric slowly back and forth while running the
machine very fast to fill the area. More professional results will be at
tained by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern while sewing. After
filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the same
manner.
Pattern
Length: 0
Width 0
Feed Dog:
Foot: None
—
—21—
—
—
Elastic Thread Shirring
Wind elastic thread onto bob
bin,
letting
the
thread
pass
through your fingers. The thread
should be wound smoothly with
out stretching. Place bobbin
in
case as usual, being sure that the
elastic is drawn through the ten
sion. Use regular thread on
the
top of the machine. Do a trial run
on the chosen fabric to test len
g
th of stitch. Lay a piece of pap
er
under the fabric to keep it from
gathering up as you sew. Thi
s
will enable you to sew man
y
parallel rows of stitching wit
hout
difficulty. Afterwards tear
out
the paper and the fabric wil
l be
gathered.
p
Pattern’
Length: 3-4
Width’ 0
Feed Dog: 4
Foot’ All Purpose
—
—
—
Holding The Fabric
For most fabrics, it is not
necessary to hold the fabric
in both front and
back, Merely guide the fab
ric with one hand from the
front.
For the fine delicate fabrics
, such as chiffon, geogrette,
and tricot, the
best results will be attained
by holding the fabric in front
and back of the
needle without pulling on
it.
Turning Corners
To pivot at a corner, leave the
needle in the fabric while on
the upswing so that the stitch
is almost completed, thus preven
ting the possibility of skipped
stitches in the corner. Lift the
presser foot and pivot the fabric.
Then, lower the presser foot and
continue sewing.
Curved Seams
On a curved seam use
a slightly shorter stitch leng
th than you are using
for the rest of the seams.
For example, if length
2 is being used for the
seams, a 1-1/2 stitch leng
th would be preferred for
curves. A smaller
stitch length will add stre
ngth and elasticity to
the seam.
When guiding the fabric,
keep your fabric edge on
the guide lines that
are clearly marked on you
r needle plate.
—22----
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—.
Sewing on Buttons
Set machine as shown.
Zigzag stitching is a very easy and
convenient method of sewing on
button without a shank. First,
lower the feed dog with the drop
feed lever.
Place the button so its left hole
comes directly under the needle,
then gently lower the button
sewing foot Take a stitch in the
hole.
Raise the needle and move zigzag
width control to the right until the
needle comes down exactly over
the right hole in the button.
Caution: Be sure the needle clears
the holes of the button by moving
the hand wheel by hand before
runn!ng the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are ade
quate for securing a button in
place. Stop with the needle in the
left hole To lock the threads,
set the stitch width at 0, and take
a few stitches in the left hand
hole
p
17
Jv
71
Pattern
Length 0
Width 25
Feed Dog A,
Foot Button Sewing Foot
Forming Thread Shank on Button
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have
a thread shank to make
them stand away from the fabric. To form
a thread shank, sew over a pin
or rounded toothpick which can be inserted
directly under the button
sewing foot
After stitching the button to the fabric, remo
ve work from under the
presser foot leaving threads about six inch
es from fabric Remove pin or
toothpick. Pull the threads to back of butto
n and form a shank between
button and fabric by winding threads tightly arou
nd the attaching stitches,
then tie securely
—
)
z
Pattern
Length
Width 1-5
Feed Dog AA
Foot All Purpose
3
3
3
.3
Satin Stitching
This is useful for decoration such as tapering manua
l designed embroidery,
monogramming, and applique.
The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag stitch,
is obtained by setting
the stitch length as near to “0” as possible withou
t stopping the feeding
action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It
may be desirable to
loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threa
ds to lock underneath,
in order to make the top surface look especially smooth
. For lightweight
fabrics, place paper underneath the fabric while sewing
for best results.
3.
3
)
Tapering/Creative Embroidery
3
Pattern ,vv,,
Length 2
Width 0-5
Feed DogAA
Foot All Purpose
Tapering is done by gradually increasing and decreasin
g the stitch width
while sewing. By this method, tapered monograms and
other interesting
designs can be created. For tapered monograms run
the machine fast
while turning the width control slowly from narrow
to wide and back.
First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide straigh
t. Then, learn to
pivot the fabric as you are tapering by holding the fabric
at one point.
Various strokes can be combined to form letters and
designs. Variegated
thread can give attractive results.
3
3
3
4
Manual Embroidery Designs
Different designs can be made by
turning the stitch width control
between 0 and 5. By running the
machine at a constant speed and
turning the width control in a
definite rhythm, various designs
can be created.
Pattern AJ’A
Length 23
Width 0-5
Feed Dog
Foot All Purpose
—25—
—
I
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-
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p
—
,;:
Pattern: AI’A
Length 0
Width 1-5
Feed Dog A,
Foot. None
p
,//
p
_,,
.i
‘S
‘S
Free Hand Monogramming
For giving garments and linens a personaliz
ed touch, first transfer the
design to the right side of the fabric. An emb
roidery hoop is recommended
especially for soft fabrics and toweling. In
order to monogram, you must
move the fabric slowly and run the mach
ine rapidly. Monogramming is
like writing by moving the paper under
a stationary pen. Guide the fabric
slowly so that the zigzag falls close together like
a satin stitch, but be careful
that the stitches do not pile up.
When guiding from side to side, move fabri
c slightly faster to avoid a
heavy area.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is acco
mplished any letter is easy.
Sometimes the use of paper or non-wov
en interfacing under the fabric
may make guiding the fabric easier.Th
e paper or interfacing may be torn
or cut away at the completion of the mon
ogram When monogramming
towels, cellophane placed on the top will
help cover loops and make the
monogram smooth. Pull or cut away rema
ining cellophane when finished.
Stepl
Pattern: P\
Length. 1
Width: 0-1
Feed Dog .4,4
Foot AM Purpose
t:::”
-
S.
-
-•
Step 2
Pattern t’J’
Length
Width. 2-4
Feed Dog 44
Foot: All Purpose
Applique
-
S
-
-
‘
-
‘.
-
‘St.,
.5,
-
S
Applying decorative shapes of fabri
c scraps to household articles and
clothing is a very interesting way of trim
ming an otherwise plain article.
First, trace the design on fabric to
be appliqued, then pin or baste it
securely in place on garment. With
a small straight stitch or narrow
zigzag, sew around the transferred desig
n. After excess fabric is trimmed
away, sew around the applique with
a satin stitch. For a smooth curve,
stop frequently at the inside edge of the
curve to pivot the fabric slightly.
Corners look much better when the
point is stitched by pivoting rather
than Just turned.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may
be used to give more body to the
fabric when stitching and can be torn away
when the applique is completed.
-
Gathering Over Cord
Ordinary gathering with a bastina
stitch often breaks while pulling in
fullness. A small zigzag across a
cord such as crochet thread or
carpet thread, gives a much strong
er cord for gathering fullness into
fabrics. Once the gathers have
been stitched in place, the cord
can be pulled out in order to
eliminate bulk
3
Pattern t.i
Length 2
Width 3
Feed Doa *A
Foot AU Purpose
APPLICATIONS OF THE MULTIPLE STITCH
ZIGZAG
Overcasting
Pattern:
Length 21
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog 44
Foot: All Purpose
[i
The multiple stitch zigzag is an
excellent choice for overcasting.
It keeps the fabric flat and prevents
raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch
is better than the zigzag stitch for
overcasting
The stitch should fall right at the raw
edge of the fabric. Feed the fabric
under the presser foot by guiding
the raw edge along the right hand
side of the hole in the presser foot.
Patching
.
-‘
i,
V
iiiii i ilii,
V
V
V
V
Pattern:,.:....
<; Length: -1
<
A
A
A
A A
A
A
A’
LV.yVvvvVVMFoot:
*
All
Purpose
The multiple stitch zigzag is an
excellent stitch for patching It is
stronger than the zigzag and the
tiny stitches bury into the fabric to
make an almost invisible stitch when
using matching thread.
Place the patch over the right side
of the worn or damaged area. Sew
around the patch with the multiple
stitch zigzag letting the last stitch
to the right overcast the edge of the
patch. When turning corners leave
the needle in the fabric at the
corner. Usually this will be the
furthest stitch to the right or left.
In this way, the corners are doubly
stitched and very strong. When the
patch is stitched in place, trim away
the excess worn fabric on the
wrong side of the patch.
—27—
Mending A Tear Or Instant
Darning
The multiple stitch zigzag provid
es
a strong and easy repair for torn
garments. It gves an almost invisible
mend, especially when a fine darning
thread is used.
p
p
To mend a tear, hold the torn edges
close together and stitch down the
middle.
If the tear is guided under the slot in
the middle of the presser foot,
stitching will be equal on both sides.
If necessary, sew again on either
side of the first row of stitching
making sure the needle catches the
stitch in the center. With very worn
or frayed fabric, place a piece of
lightweight interfacing or cotton
batiste under the tear for rein
forcement.
Pattern:..:
Length. Near 0.12
Wdth 4-5
Feed Dog 44
Foot. AB Purpose
Pattern fA/\
Length: I
Width: 1-2
FeedDog.AA
Foot. All Purpose
Lace Applications
Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch
to lingerie, dresses, or linens.
Pin or baste laces in place easing or mitering
corners where necessary.
A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient
line to follow when sewing.
When using a scalloped edged lace follow the
design of the lace for an
almost invisible application.
Note: Try multiple stitch zigzag for different
effects.
—28---
b
w
___
_
Pattern t’J’A
Length 2
Width 4-5
Feed Dog 44
Foot: All Purpose
Flutter Hem
An unusual way of hemming or finis
hing edges of tricot or soft knits
is
by a flutter edge. Hemming in this manner
is just like overcasting an edg
e,
but the fabric is stretched in back and in
front of the needle as you sew.
For best results, pull the fabric equally,
making sure the needle goes over
the edge. When you stop to repositio
n your hands, keep the needle
in the fabric.
Elastic Application
4
Pattern:
Length: 4i 2
Width 4-5
Feed Dog 44
Foot: All Purpose
Applying elastic to lingerie or soft
knit fabrics is easy when using the
multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic
2 inches smaller than your waist
measurement. Overlap the raw
ends to form a circle and stitch with
a tiny zigzag to form a box as shown.
Fold the elastic into quarters or
eighths and mark with pins. Do the
same with the waistline of the
garment. Place the elastic about 1 /2
inch from the top edge of the fabric,
matching the pins. Place under the
presser foot and begin stitching. As
you stitch, place the forefinger of
each hand on the fabric at either
side of the presser foot. Pull the
fabric out exactly at the point where
the needle is sewing over the elastic
and the fabric. This will ease your
fabric and elastic together as you
sew. The amount of ease is depen
dent on how much you ease the
fabric. In this way you never need
to stretch the elastic, which can be
damaged and stretched out of
shape. Trim off excess fabric above
elastic near the stitches.
—29---
p
Understitching Facings
The multiple stitch zigzag is an
excellent choice for understitching
and eliminating bulk in facing seam
allowances.
After attaching the facing to the
garment, trim and clip the seam
allowance as usual. Press the seam
allowances toward the facing and
use the multiple stitch zigzag close
to the seam, stitching through the
facing and the seam allowances.
Using a matching thread, the stitch
will blend into the fabric and prevent
excess bulk. This is much more
successful than a straight stitch for
understitching. It really helps to
keep the facings from rolling.
p
p
Step 1
p
Step2
0’
Pattern
Length: 1-2
Width 4-5
Feed Dog LA
Foot AU Purpose
‘,‘‘
—
F
Decorative Effects
As with the blind hem stitch, the
multiple stitch zigzag can be used
for many decorative combinations.
If the stitch is pivoted when the
needle reaches the far left or right
of its swing, and the points
are carefully matched, a tracery
diamond shape results.
On the other hand, if rows of the
multiple stitch zigzag are sewn with
the points falling directly under each
other, a wavy pattern is produced.
Flowers may also be produced. Start
in center; pivot at points shown.
Add four more petals if desired.
.
.
r
.
L
L
.
.
-
L
Pattern:
Length. 1212
Width 35
Feed:Dog 44
Foot Al) Purpose
.,‘
—30—
v
a
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH
BLIND HEM
Hemming
The stretch bhnd hem stitc
h gives
a stretchy, durable hem finis
h to
knit fabrics. The two tiny
zigzag
stitches enable the hem to
stretch
with the fabric. It may also
prevent
woven fabrics from ravelin
g.
Proceed as for the reg
ular blind
hem stitch on page 32
3
3
3
Pattern Pwt
Length 1-2
Width 4-5
Feed Dog: AA
Foot Al! Purpose
3
Edging
3
3
a
A
.1
Pattern ,1lvJI
Length
Width 45
Feed Dog 4,4
Foot MI Purpose
The stretch blind hem stitc
h can be
used as an edging, like the
blanket
stitch done by hand. By usin
g a fairly
short stitch length, the stitc
hes lie
very close together. It can
be used
for overcasting and finishin
g the
edges of tablecloths, nap
kins and
ruffles. The edge may be
turned up
about 1 /2 inch and then
overcast
with the stretch blind hem.
Cord or
pearl cotton may be used
to give a
raised effect to the stitches
. Simply
place 2-4 strands of pearl cott
on or
embroidery floss under the
foot and
stitch over it.
Eyelash Buttonhole
A
Pattern N’l.I
Length 12
Width 4-5
Feed:Dog AA
Foot All Purpose
A unique way of reinforcing
button
holes on loosely woven fabrics
or
buttonholes in which the stitc
hes
have been accidently cut, is to ove
r
cast them with a short stretch
blind
hem stitch. Overcast each side
of
the buttonhole so the far righ
t stitch
falls into the opening of the but
ton
hole and the small zigzag stitc
hes
cover the previous buttonhole
side.
On completion of one side of the
buttonhole, pivot the fabric wit
h the
needle at the far right in the openin
g
of the buttonhole at the bar
tack.
Sew up the other side in the sam
e
manner.
0
I
A
A
—31—
Decorative Stitches
Combining rows of decorative
stitch patterns is an easy, inex
pensive way to create your own
braids and trims for garments
and household articles. Blending
or contrasting colors of thread
may be used to complement the
color of the fabric. Illustrations
will give some of the attractive
stitch combinations.
p
p
‘\‘\
v’,’\
p
p
p
p
p
Pattern: As Desired
Length: AsDesired
Width: As Desired
Feed Dog 44
Foot All Purpose
Shell Tuck As Decorative
fX1
The blind hem stitch can produce
a very fine delicate shell tuck,
especially nice on soft knits. It is
necessary to work with the bulk
of the fabric to the right. Simply
fold under the edge where the
shell tuck is to be created. Place
the fabric, with the bulk to the
right so that the folded edge will
be guided into the center cut of
the foot.
The single straight stitch will
form on the fabric, and the zigzag
will swing to the left of the folded
edge. The shell edge is created
as the needle swings back into
the fabric.
Pattern: ,A.AA
Length. 2
Width: 5
Feed Dog:AA
Foot All Purpose
Inserting Lace
A very fine lace insertion can be
made with the blind hem stitch.
As in applying lace with the
zigzag stitch, follow the straight
line or the design of the lace.(See
page 28 ). Sew so that the straight
stitch of the blind hem is on the
fabric and the small zigzag
catches into the lace.
Pattern. ..AAJ\
Length: 1-1 2
Width 2
Feed Dog 44
Foot All Purpose
APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH
Blind Hemming
3
I -‘-‘- I
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish
that is almost invisible
on garments. drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with
straight or slightly
curved hems. With a little practice it will be a very
quick and easy hem
application and the hem will never need repa
iring
3
3
3
3
Step 1
3
Step 2
3
3
Procedure:
•Prepare raw edge of hem in desired
manner, such as overcast. 1/4 inch
stitched under, pinked, hem tape,
or just plain. (Step 1)
•Fold hem up desired length. Baste
or pin 1 /2 inch from upper edge.
Press in place. (Step 2)
•Fold hem back toward right side
of fabric leaving about 1 /4 inch
extended. (Step 3)
Adjust your stitch width so that
the zigzag bite of the stitch just
slightly catches the fold of the
fabric. The straight stitches should
be formed on the single thickness
of fabric, and the zigzag bite should
catch just barely into the fold of
the fabric at the left.
When stitching is completed,
remove fabric from machine and
turn to right side. Press completed
hem.
3
3
3
3
3
When hemming an A-line skirt,
place a machine basting stitch along
the raw edge of the hem. At an
ironing board, fold up the hem,
matching the seams. Ease in the
excess fabric by pulling on bast
ing thread. Press with steam, then
apply hem tape. Baste or pin hem
1 /2 inch from taped edge, then
continue into step 3.
3
3
3
Pattern
Length: 1-2
Width. 3-5
seed Dog AA
Foot AM Purpose
—33—
Shell Tuck
p
The blind hem stitch gives a very
effective and easy way to make a
shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases,
and decorative finishes. This works
well on knits or on the bias of soft,
woven fabrics. A single folded bias
tape may be tucked in this manner,
and then applied under a fold for a
decorative hem on pillowcases or
applied with the facings at the
neckline or armhole for a decorative
finish.
Set the upper tension dial to a little
bit tighter position than normal.
Fold under the edge where the shell
tuck is to be created. Place the bulk
of the fabric to the right of the
needle with the folded edge to the
left. Place the fabric so that the
folded edge will be guiding into the
‘center cut of the foot. The straight
stitches will form on the fabric, and
the zigzag bite will swing to the left
off of the folded edge. The shell
edge is created as the needle swings
back onto the fabric. The size of the
‘shell can be varied by changing
the stitch length.
F
F
r
F
P
Pattern AA
Length: 1 122
Width 45
Feed Dog
Foot: All Purpose
Decorative Effects
By sewing two adjacent rows of
blind hem stitching on lace or ribbon
attractive decorations are created.
The stitch may be pivoted when the
zigzag bite swings to the left and the
points matched in the second row.
p
V
Another variation alternates the
zigzag bites in the center of the
straight stitched segment. The
stitch may also be pivoted after two Pattern _/_A_
Length 1-2
straight stitches to form a snow Width 4-5
flake-like pattern.
Feed Dog:AA
---,,.—-.
‘
.-
Foot. All Purpose
Topstitching Effects
A new kind of topstitching effect
can be produced by couching a
strand or two of pearl cotton
embroidery floss, or yarn with the
blind hem stitch. Simply guide the
cord through the left groove of the
embroidery foot so that the blind
hem stitch sews over the cord and
not through it. The straight stitches
of the blind hem stitch will bury
themselves along the right side of
the cord. The sewing thread should
match as closely as possible to blend
into the fabric.
Pattern jr
Length. 1-2
Width 2-4
Feed Dog: AA
Foot: AU Purpose
—34—-
b
b
•1
Twin Needle Upper Th
reading
3
3
3
Follow threading instruction
for single
needle with these excepti
ons.
Place thread, matching or
contrasting
in color, on both spo
ol pins.
Draw threads through
thread guides
as normal, but separa
te the threads
at the position
Pass one thread through
the left disc
and one thread thro
ugh the right
disc. Tension disc
s are divided in
center by a flat slightly
raised disc.
•Now treat both thr
eads as one until
you reach the thread
guide on the
needle clamp.
•At needle clamp
2 pass one of the
threads on the right
guide and the
other thread on the
left guide.
•At the needle points
3 thread from
the right guide should
be lead to the
right needle eye and
the thread from
the left guide should
be lead to the left
needle eye.
•Zigzag width control:
Set at desired
width between “0”
and “2’ if you set
the control higher than
2, the needle
will hit the needle plat
e and break.
•STITCH LENGTH: Set
at desired stitch
length.
it
,,
3
3
3
3
3
3
Twin Needle Sewing Eff
ects
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
Pattern: Any
Length: ‘2-5
Width: 0-2
Feed Dog:44
Foot: All Purpose
To use twin needle in
the machine,
remove the single needle,
and insert
the twin needle into clamp wit
h the flat
side to the back. Threading
of the
machine when using a twin
needle is
the same as normal with thes
e excep
tions:
1. Place threads, matching
or con
trasting in color, on each spo
ol pin.
2. Hold both threads togethe
r as you
follow through thread guides
as
normal, but separate the thr
eads
at the tension. Pass on thre
ad
through the left disc and one
thread
through the right disc.
Tension
discs are divided in center
by a flat
slightly raised disc.
3. Then pass threads thro
ugh arm
thread guide.
When using a twin needle,
set the
stitch width control at 2
or less to
prevent needle breakage wit
h a wide
stitch.
3
3
—35—
Decorative Tucks Or Designs
—
Any stitch can be used with the twin
needle for decorative effects.
Most attractive are the multiple stitch
zigzag and blind hem stitch for fancy
tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag
designs in two colors are effective for
creative trims.
Caution: Remember to use no more
than 2 zigzag width for twin needle
sewing.
-
Pin Tucks
Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that
matches the fabric, produce subtle
decoration on plain fabric. Using the
twin needle, sew straight lines on the
fabric guiding the edge of the presser
foot along each successive tuck to
make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will
be pulled to form a soft crease. To
achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase
the lower tension slightly. Heavier
fabrics will produce two lines of straight
stitching.Attractive pin tucks are made
with the multiple stitch zigzag as well
as with a straight stitch.
NOTE:Transparent tape makes straight
lines easy to sew. Just sew with the
presser foot guiding along the edge
of the tape. When sewing is completed
peel off tape.
Pattern:
Length: 2-4
Width: 0-2
Feed Dog:AA
Foot: AU Purpose
—
__c_
p
•
p
•
p
Various fabrics require various meth
ods of
sewing buttonholes. Five different
methods
are given below, with suggested uses
. If you
are in doubt as to which method is
best for
your fabric, test the methods in ques
tion and
choose the best according to the
finished
appearance
-3
3
Preparation
3
3
EFH
I
B
3
3
3
3
3
‘3
‘3
3
3
3
z
3
3
3
‘3
Center line of garment
1/8 inch
For the best results, a good
quality merceriz
ed cotton thread should be used
Polyester
threads often result in puck
ered or heavy
unattractive buttonholes. The
finer your
fabric is, the finer your cotton
thread should
be. An interfacing should be
used under the
buttonholes to give body, to stre
ngthen. and
to help them withstand wear.
To establish
the correct length of the butto
nhole, add the
diameter of the button (A).
plus the thick
ness of the button (B). plus 1
/8 inch for the
bar tacks.The length may be
marked on the
garment with a basting stitch,
tailors chalk,
or transparent tape, as shown.
Another way
to make sure that all buttonholes
will be the
same size is to cut a piece of
cardboard as
wide as the buttonhole foot
and long
enough to make the distance
between the
toe of the white slide and the card
board the
size buttonhole needed. This
method works
for buttonholes up to 1-1
/8 inches long.
Horizontal buttonholes should
extend 1 /8
inch beyond the center line of
the garment.
Vertical buttonholes are placed
so that the
cutting space of the buttonhole
is directly on
the center line. Always make
a practice
buttonhole on a scrap of the garm
ent fabric
before making any buttonholes
on your gar
ment. On your test sample, dupl
icate the
thickness found in the garment
and be sure
to include the interfacing. The
test sample
should help determine the leng
th needed for
the button to pass through easil
y, and the
stitch length for the particular fabri
c. As with
the satin stitch, the stitches shou
ld be close
together, but not so close that
they pile up.
Be sure to use the buttonhole
foot.
‘3
‘3
‘3
‘3
‘3
Center line of garment
—37—
________________(thickness
Built in Buttonholes
Determine Length
marking
Measure diameter and thickness of
button and add 0.3cm (1 /8’) for
bar tacks.
Mark buttonhole size on material.
0.3cm(1/8”)
diameter
Determine Width
Determine width according to
diameter of button, its thickness,
and kind of thaterial.
Determine Density
p
Set stitch length dial at mid point betw
een “0” and “1
You will note three color
coded dots on dial. Set diat to cente
r dot and make a test buttonhole
on the
same material but a scrap piece you
are sewing. Adjust density as needed,
close
to “0” for tight density of buttonhole and
increase nearer to “1” for open dens
ity
of buttonhole. When buttonhole is mad
e to your satisfaction, you are read
y to
make buttonholes on the article you
are sewing. Do not change the dens
ity or
stitch length control when making
your series of buttonholes.
Attach buttonhole foot.
Completely push back sliding part a
of
buttonhole foot.
Place material under foot so that mark
ing of
buttonhole passes through center
of foot
and arrow b of foot indicates beginnin
g line
of marking.
“.
p
L
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial
to
and sew 5-6 stitches.
•
L
Blr
r
Left side: Change pattern to (C
). Sew left
side from front to back until it reaches
end
line.
Remember the point where arrow shows
so
that it is not necessary to mark end lines
for
all buttonholes.
t
C
r
.
r
______________
4
Bar tacking: Change pattern to
sew 5-6 stitches.
‘
I
I and
I
B
Right side: Change pattern to
(
) and
it reaches the first bar
sew right side until
tack.
A
[EIJ
Q finish
-
To prevent unstitching.
set
stitches.
Cutting Buttonholes
Stick a needle through bar tacks
to
prevent over-cutting.
,.
Cut buttonhole along
cutter.
center
with
Caution- Adjustment of stitch density
Check the stitch density on a scrap of fabric
made of same material as the fabric
to be sewn on. If density is too open or too close,
re-adjust by turning the stitch
length dial.
Pattern. 1wI
Length: 2
Width: 5
Feed Dog: Up
Foot: All Purpose
Eyelash Buttonhole
A unique way of reinforcing
buttonholes on
loosely woven fabrics or butto
nholes in
which the stitches have been accid
ently cut,
is to overcast them with a short
stretch blind
hem stitch. Overcast each side of
the button
hole so the far right stitch falls
into the
opening of the buttonhole and
the small
zigzag stitches cover the previous
button
hole side. On completion of one
side of the
buttonhole, pivot the fabric with the
needle
at the far right in the opening of
the button
hole at the bartack. Sew up the othe
r side in
the same manner.
—39—
r
Turn-Around Buttonholes
p
It is possible to make small and dainty
buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged
buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of
the cloth but with some practice, good
buttonholes can be achieved
p
p
p
p
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the
cloth as shown in
2. Your stitch length dial near “1 /4” or the
density you desire.
3. Choose the desired width of your button
hole.
Example: if you want a buttonhole with a
width of 3 setting on the stitch width
control divide this setting in half, or 1 12
4. Start at your marked position, sew down
on the left side of buttonhole to the other
end of marking. Leave the needle in the
cloth t the right side of stitches and
rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and
slide the bottom of the foot back to the
p
figure.
p
p
•
p
Pattern ,\/‘A
Length As Needed
Width 2’2-5 22 50
Feed Dog AA
Foot Buttonhole
-
-
A
-
front.
5. Sew the other side of buttonhole to your
mark.
6. Move the end of the buttonhole under
the needle and make a bar tack. Repeat
for other end.
7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches at
o width, Cut buttonhole as indicated
previously.
When using this method over a buttonhole
which has already been slit or damaged, be
sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow
the needle to go off the edge of the fabric.
Step 4 is all that may be needed to repair
damaged buttonholes.
-.a
-
I
Step 1
Step 2
—40—
p
Step 3
Step 4
Corded Buttonholes
Cording gives a reinforce
d raised button
hole. It is excellent for use
on bulky, woven
fabric, or knits in which the
stitching often
gets buried and makes cut
ting difficult. On
knits, a corded buttonhol
e will help keep the
fabric from stretching
out of shape.
Choose a heavy Cotton
crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use
for the cording. Pro
ceed as for either built-in
buttonhole (page
38) or the turnaround button
hole (page 40)
having the cord under
the presser foot in
such a way that the zigzag
stitch covers the
cord. When pivoting the
buttonhole, also
swing the cord around to
follow under the
second side.
At the completion of the but
tonhole snip the
excess cord close to the
bar tack on woven
fabrics. For knitted garme
nts, always pull
the cords to the wrong side
by using a darn
ing needle or needle thread
er, and knot the
cord ends before clipping.
3
3
Z
z
3
3
Built-in Buttonhole:
Pattern: A
Length:
As Needed
Width 4-S
Food Dog 44
Foot Buttonhole
Selector Lever
:—i
:
Buttonhole:
Tu
Patrnternaround
Length t’,
As Needed
W
2
1
5
5
id
th
O
2
2
Feed Dog AA —--AA
—
Foot Buttonhole
Ir
—41—
______
F,
Stretch Buttonholes
This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when
it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording.
This buttonhole will stretch and return to
shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole.
The
pattern of the stitch makes the
buttonholes nearly invisible when using mat
ching thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys,
double knits, and sweater fabrics.
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole onthe
cloth as shown in.
2. Select the overlock stitch (:20).
3. Set the length dial to 4,
4. The width should be set at 2 2.
5. Start at the marked position, sew down
the left side of the buttonhole to the other
end of the marking. Leave the needle in
the cloth at the right side of the stitches
and rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot
and slide the bottom of the foot back.
6. Lower the presser foot and raise the
needle. Reset your stitch width to make
a
bartack at width 5. Set your feed dog
to
sew a few stitches.
7. Raise the needle, raise the feed dog
to
reset the width to 2 and sew the
second side of the buttonhole, to the end
of the buttonhole mark, reset the width to
5, the feed dog to
and sew a few
stitches for the second bartack.
8. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches
o width. Cut the buttonhole as indicatedat
previously.
I
r)
_1
,
Pattern:
Length 4
Width: 2 -5-2 1,250
Feed Dog:A —-A.A—
Foot: Buttonho’e
Pattern Cam No 20
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH
Seams
4
[EE]
This stitch may be used on knits and
woven fabrics, in areas of stress as a
reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for
curved seams such as armholes and
crotch seams. For active wear such as ski
pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot
of stress in bending and stretching, this
stitch may be used for seaming throughout
the garment.
Caution: It is difficult to remove this stitch
from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this
stitch.
)
Pattern:
Length: 4
Width 0
Feed Dog: 44
Foot: AU Purpose
Pattern Cam: No.18
Topstitching (Stretch Stitches)
Because this stitch is heavier than an
ordinary straight stitch, it is ideal for
topstitching, particularly on knits.
Elastic Triple Straight Stitch
—
Regular Straight Stitch
PROCEDURE:
•The elastic triple straight stitch is used
when a straight line of stitching is desired
so that seams may be pressed open
(slacks for example>.
•This stitch is especially useful where the
tiny zigzag seam will not hold its shape
and the straight stitch will break.
Apply this stitch to areas of stress on
both wovens and knits (crotch seam and
under arm for example>.
Use this stitch for rightly fitted garments
that need a lot of stretch, such as ski
pants, girdles and bathing suits,
—43--
___
APPLICATION OF THE
RICK-RACK
Topstitching/RiCk- Rack
jW/A\V//j
A decorative topstitch can be produced
with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the
structur?.l lines of the garment for a special
effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset
to add an additional creative flair.
r
Pattern: tvu
Length: 4
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog. AA
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam: No. 19
r
—
Pattern: W,W*41,
Length
4
Width 0-5-0
Feed Dog: AA
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam No. 19
Tapering/Rick- Rack
The rick-rack stitch may be
tapered to
form creative stems and petals
of flowers,
embroidered pictures and wall
hangings.
As in tapering the zigzag, see
page 25
slowly turn the stitch width
control from
O to 5 and back to 0.
A group of these
tapered rick-rack stitch
will form a
bouquet-like effect.
PROCEDURE:
The elastic rick-rack stitch is a zigza
g line
of stitching that is desired so that seam
s
may be pressed open.
•Apply this stitch to areas of stres
s on
both wovens and knits.
•Use narrow width of zigzag as
a heavy
duty triple stitch for seams.
•Use medium and wide widths of
zigzag
for overcasting edges of seams,
facings
and hems of heavier weight fabrics
such
as terrycloth, and for attaching
elastic.
Use also for decorative stitching.
Guide your fabric from the front.
Do not
pull or push as it will cause poor stitc
hing.
—44---
Elastic Triple Zigzag Stitch
RI
b
b
Regular Zigzag Stitch
b
F
APPLICATION STRETCH
OVERLOCK
Stretch Overlock
)
On fabrics that are bulkier or heavier, the
stretch overlock is a better choice than
the overlock. In all methods proceed as
you would for the overlock, see page 47
The stitch is less dense and will preven
t
soft stretchy knits from rippling.
3
3
3
Pattern:vp>i
Length 4
Width 4-5
Feed Dog 44
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam No. 21
3
3
APPLICATIONS OF THE
TRICOT STITCH
Lingerie Seam
For a very fine, delicate seam
in nylon
tricot or jersey, the tricot stitc
h is used.
Lingerie or tricot seams shou
ld only be
about 1/8 inch in finished width
If your pattern has wide seams,
trim them
down to 1 /4 inch while cutting
out the
pattern. Guide the raw edges of
the fabric
into the center slot of the presser
foot. On
the right, the needle will stitch
over the
edge resulting in a finished 1
/8 inch.
3
)
Pattern: ju.u
Length: 1
Width: 5
Feed Dog: 44
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam: No.22
)
)
Inserting Lace
)
)
)
)
)
iJJLLL1
()
A very fine lace insertion can be mad
e with
the tricot stitch. As in applying lace
with
the zigzag stitch, follow the straigh
t line or
the design of the lace. Sew so that
the
straight stitch of the interlock is
on the
fabric and the small zigzag catches
into
the lace.
Pattern: mu.
Length: 1
Width: 2
Feed Dog: 44
Foot. All Purpose
Pattern Cam:No.22
)
—45—
APPLICATIONS OF THE
OVERLOCK STITCH
Seaming
I
This stitch gives a finished 3’l 6 inch seam
in one step. For knits, it gives strength and
elasticity to the seams and prevents the
curling of the fabric that often occurs
with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most
applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon
or acetate knits, but may be used on
other fabrics as well. Always make test
seams with this stitch.
•
p
p
p
For woven fabric, the overlock stitch
gives strength and prevents raveling. It can
be used on woven goods to replace flat
felled or French seams.
For patterns with 3/16 inch seams. Place
the raw edge of the fabric under the
presser foot so that as the needle
swings to the right, it comes down at the
raw edge. This will result in an enclosed
seam allowance.
For patterns with 5/8 inch seams:
The seam allowances may be trimmed to
3/16 inch either before or after sewing.
If trimming before sewing, proceed as
above. Otherwise, sew the seam with
the raw edge of the fabric on the etched
guide line “1/2”. (Any time you use the
full width of a particular stitch, you should
readjust the raw edge of the fabric 1/8
inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the
excess fabric near the stitching. This
method is actually easier than the overedge
method for fabrics that curl.
Pattern:
Length: 4
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog: 44:
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam: No.20
Hemstitching Effect
By using a very large needle and a fine
thread an openwork effect can be attained
which is beautiful for sewing the hems
into tablecloths, napkins, placemats,
handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle,
size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread,
Tighten the upper tension slightly, until the
stitch looks better on the underside than
on top. (You will be sewing with your
fabric face side down.)
Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again
to form a hem of a double thickness of
fabric. The bulk in corners can be
eliminated by trimming away the excess,
as shown, after having folded the fabric
on all sides. Stitch from the wrong side,
so that the straight stitch forms on the
single layer and the zigzag bites on the
double layer. Stitch all the way to the
edge of the fabric along all sides,
—46—
p
Pattern:
Length: 4
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: 44
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam:No.20
•
p
—
p
—
p
-
a
Topstitching Overlock
The overlock stitch can be used to topstitc
h
nonraveling fabrics such as felt or leather
into place for appliques or pockets.
Stitch so that the straight part of
the
stitch is formed over the edge of
the
leather, and only the zigzag part hold
s it
in place.
Pattern:
Length: 4
Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: 44
Foot. All Purpose
Pattern Cam: No.20
PROCEDURE:
.Overlock stitching is used for sewi
ng
overlapping seams, decorative hem
s,
binding and edges on woven and elast
ic
fabrics.
To sew an overlapping seam, place one
piece of fabric
inch (1cm) over the other
piece and sew the overlock stitch over
the
fabric edge on the right side.
.You can produce a decorative hem
by
folding a single hem on the wron
g side
and sewing the overlock from the right
side.
•Use knit trim or bias binding when
binding curved edges, like round
necks
and armholes.
—47—
APPLICATIONS OF THE
ULTRA STRETCH STITCH
Seaming
On most knits, a 3 16 inch finished seam.
such as stitch and overcast or the ultra
stretch stitch, is more desirable than a 5 8
inch opened seam allowance.These stitches
can create a neater, more professional
finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent
curling, permit the garment to “give”
under stress, and at the same time they
cut down on the amount of work involved
in making a garment. If ever in doubt as
to which of the two stitches to use, test
both on the particular fabric in question
and choose according to their perform
ance.
The stitch and overcast stitch is excellent
for stretch fabrics such as sweater knits,
bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has
the greatest strength and elasticity of all.
For patterns with 3/16 inch seam
allowances: Feed the fabric such that the
needle goes over the raw edge of the
fabric when it swings to the right.
For patterns with 5 8 inch
ances: Feed the raw edge
along the etched guide line
trim away the excess fabric
stitching.
seam allow
of the fabric
“1 2”, then
close to the
Pattern:
Length: 4
Width 4-5
Feed Dog:44
Foot. All Purpose
Pattern Cam:No 26
PROCEDURE:
• Ultra stretch stitching is used for
seaming and finishing the cut edge of knit
fabrics, all in one operation.
•This ultra stretch stitch is especially good
for stretch fabrics such as double knit
and jersey and will give a firm, neat
edge finish.
Overcasting
—48---
_
APPLICATIONS OF THE
DECORATIVE FUN PATTERNS
[ L1
Wave-Fish-Swan-Tulip-Briar
Fun stitches
3
• II
1’l
1t
.1.1.
The reverse stitch patterns produc
e wave,
fish, swan, tulip, briar designs for
use on
household linens and children clot
hes.
These reverse stitch patterns can
be used
to sew in hems as the scallop stitc
h.
The reverse stitch patterns can
also be used
for topstitching bindings and
ribbons for
decorative effect. This is done
in the same
manner that lace is applied with
the zigzag
stitch.(See Page 28 ). The stra
ight stitched
edge of the reverse stitch pattern
s on the
left should be sewn on the left
edge of the
binding or ribbon. This decorativ
e effect can
be used on towels and placema
ts for a
pleasant appearance.
The reverse stitch patterns
can also be
corded for stronger decorative
edges on
placemats and tablecloths. Simp
ly place four
strands of pearl cotton, embroide
ry floss or
yarn under the presser foot.
A transparent foot will help guid
e the cord
evenly while sewing the reve
rse stitch
patterns.
The reverse stitch patterns
can be sewn
with two threads through one
needle for a
more effective decorative stitc
h. Simply
thread two sewing threads throu
gh the upper
threading system. A larger need
le should be
used to accommodate the two
threads. Use
this decorative technique for
enhancing
tablecloths, placemats, napkins,
and curtains.
Note: Narrow patterns may be
made by
setting zigzag width to 4-3-2.
Pattern: As Desired
Length: 4
Width: 4-5
Feed Dog:AA
Foot: All Purpose
Pattern Cam of Your Choice
—49--
Selector lever
Stitch length dial
Zigzag width control
Fee& dog
Presser foot
Needle plate
Pattern cam
Sew” position
Between”O. 5” and “1 “(Single Cam)
“4” (Double Cam)
Between “3” and “5”
-P
F
All purpose
Zigzag
Your option
—
r
F
Creative Patterns Control
You can get various creative patterns extended or shortened
by using creative patterns
control when the double cam no. 18 to 30 set in the machine.
--+
p.
0
e
—50—
NEEDLE
TWI N
NEEDLE
SINGLE
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MULTIPLE
STITCH ZIGZAG
-
U
U
U
Single Cam
U
:1o
Fun Pattern Cams
U
STRETCH BLIND
HEM
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TENT
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DART
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_
__
_
__
_
Fun Pattrn Cams- Double Cam
STRAIGHT
TRIPLE
STRETCH
NAME
OVERLOCK
TRICOT
STITCH
PICOT
F
PATTERN
—
CAM
//A\V/A\V/A\\ A/v 777S u
1WNEE E EEE
NEEDLE
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NAME
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CAM
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TWIN
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TULIP
FISH
SWAN
PATTERN
CAM
TWIN
NEEDLE
PLUS OR
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MINUS
CONTROL
r
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RICK RACK
-
b
—52—
(31
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cr
The all purpose foot
This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole
to accommodate wide stitches. This foot should be
used for all normal sewing.
Zigzag foot
(on machine)
The button sewing foot
This foot has a piece of plastic inserted on the bottom
to hold buttons securely.
Button sewing
foot
The buttonhole foot
This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut
enough to produce a good buttonhole. The markings
on the side allow exact buttonhole length to be
made.
ButtonhoIe foot
Changing Foot
Raise presser foot lifter T.
Set needle in the highest position by turning
handwheel towards you
‘a..
Remove foot by loosening screw with screwdriver.
Replace new foot and tighten screw.
9
—54—
Buttonhole Foot
Buttonho’e foot
Bar tacking: Set pattern selector lever to
saw 5-6 stitches.
(B )
l
1
and
B_
Left side: Change pattern to
Sew left side
from front to back until it reachs end line.
Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is
not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes.
-.
I
C
j
LH
1
Li
Bar tacking: Change pattern to
stitches.
(jj )
and sew 5-6
ft:
E(
4
11 ) and
Right side: Change pattern to
side until it catches first bar tack
sew right
Quick finish: To prevent unstitching, set zigzag
width at 0 and sew a few stitches.
Al]!
—55—
Button Sewing Foot
P:.
Button sewing
foot
Set machine as shown.
Position a button and material unde
r
When
needle comes to left side of stitch, foot.
lower foot.
Raise needle and adjust zigzag widt
h so that needle
comes to right hole of button.
Always make a few
stitches manually to check need
le clearance.
Run machine at medium speed and sew
5-6 zigzag
stitches.
Stop machine when needle is in upper
position.
a Set zigzag width control to 0 and
sew 3-4
stitches to prevent unstitching.
OR
b Draw out work and cut off threa
ds.
Draw thread ends through to wrong side
and tie a
knot.
Buttonholes Cutter
Stick a needle through bar tacks to prev
ent overcutting.
Cut buttonhole along center with butto
nhole cutter.
I
‘V
I
Zipper foot
Zipper Foot
3
3
Set machine as shown.
3
3
By using special zipper foot with sliding adjuster,
zipper sewing can be easily done without turni
ng
fabric.
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
Loosen screw
into position
and set foot so that needle comes
Tighten screw.
Sew right side of zipper guiding fabric carefully
so
that right side teeth of zipper are parallel with left
edge of foot.
3
3
a
-—I
Re-set foot so that needle comes into position
Sew left side of zipper in the same way.
.
F)
a
a’
—I
Insert Cord
a
a
(A) Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen the
adjusting screw on the back of cording zipper
foot and set the foot to the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric
with right sides together. Stitch a second time
with cording/zipper foot to the right of needle
so that the needle stitches close to the cord
through all thicknesses.
a.
—57—
Cloth Guide
Cloth guide
p
“F
Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular
distance from edge of material.
Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate,
and adjust distance.
Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide.
Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved
seam.
•
-p
Sew reverse stitches for reinforcement at end of
seam.
Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished.
Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Quilting Guide
Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting
guide. To attach the guide, loosen thumb screw and
slip the U-shaped holder of the guide between
presser foot and thumb screw. Tighten the thumb
screw securely. Adjust the curved bar to the desired
distance from the needle. Sew the first line of
stitching as desired, then, for the succeeding rows
let the guide follow along the previous stitch line.
A straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch maybe
used.
p
Qt!ng guide
—
—
Maintenance
Your machine requires regular cleaning
and oiling for sat
isfactory sewing performance.
A machine which is used for a few hour
s a day needs to
be cleaned and oiled once a month.
Cleaning
Remove foot and needle.
Remove needle plate.
Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with a brus
h, any
small household brush with stiff bristles is adeq
uate.
Turn latches outwards.
Remove hook race coverS lint clean
er.
Remove hook. Clean hook race with
a cleaning brush
and a soft cloth.
In case of laying down your mach
ine for cleaning, be
sure the spool pins are pushed in.
(A)
(B)
-.
(D)
a
S.
(E)
(C)
When the cleaning has been completed,
proceed as
follows to replace the shuttle assembly:
1. Turn the hand wheel until the needle reach
es its highest
position.
2. Replace the red plastic lint cleaner (D); the
metal clasp
will fit into the center notch in shuttle drive
r,
next
assemble the shuttle (E) into race.
3. Replace the shuttle race cover (C); there is
a small pin
on the rim of the cover.This pin fits into
a notch located
on the bottom of the race (F). Snap clamps
(F) into
position over the two pins located on the
flat surface
of the cover (C). Check that clamps (F> are
secure.
4. Place bobbin (B) into bobbin case
(A) and thread the
case (page 7)
5. Place bobbin case (A) into shuttle (E), then
turn wheel
to check for smooth position.
Caution: Race assembly, marked “F” is not to
be
removed from machine.
—59---
Oiling
Use oil manufactured specially for sewing machine use.
Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam.
Apply one drop of oil to part of hook where friction
occurs.
Open face cover and apply oil in the same way.
Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your
material and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to
penetrate to every part.
0
Remove top cover by loosening screws
large screwdriver.
and
with
fVtZZfN
0
Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by
arrows.
Changing Light Bulb
Unplug the machine.
Open face cover as shown.
Remove bulb by unscrewing it in counterclockwise.
Install a new bulb by screwing it in clockwise.
—60—
MINOR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
Skipped Stitches
Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent
years,
especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and
polyester
threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can
be
traced to four basic causes;
A. The Needle
(1) The needle is dull or bent. Change it.
(2> The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp.
It is either backwards or is not up in the needle
clamp all the way.
(3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the
fabric. Use ball point needle on knits and wedge
point needles for leathers and vinyls.
(4) The thread is too thick for the size of needle being
used. Use a large needle.
B. The Thread
(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly.
(2) Many brands of polyester thread are too stiff and
coarse thus making loop formation difficult or im
possible. Change brands or use a cotton thread.
C. The Presser Foot
(1) The foot being used is not holding the fabric taut
enough over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric
is being pulled up and down while stitching.
Use
the foot which gives the most control possible for
the particular job being done.
D. The Fabric
The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters
stitch
formation. Wash the fabric thoroughly before sewing
.
Thread Breaking
—
A. Machine improperly threaded.
B. Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under
the
spool.
C. Thread is dry or of poor quality.
D. Tension is too tight.
Starting the machine with take-up lever in the
wrong
position. Always start and end sewing with take-up
lever in highest position.
F. Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr on it.
G. Needle is not inserted correctly.
H. Thread is too coarse for needle being used.
• Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus
is
sharp and cuts the threads.
—61—
Needle Comes Unthreaded
A. Take-up lever is not in correct position as
you start sewing. Always start and end
with your take-up lever in its highest
position.
Needle Breaks
A. Pulling on fabric while sewing bends the
needle, this may cause breakage if needle
hits the plate.
B. Needle is inserted incorrectly.
C. Needle is too fine for the type of fabric.
D. Needle is hitting pins.
E. Presser foot is improperly fastened.
F. Machine is improperly threaded.
Material Puckers
A. Tensions are too tight.
B. Improper threading.
C. Thread is too heavy for fabric.
D. Stitch is too long for fabric.
E. Needle is dull so it is difficult to seam
fabric.
F. The presser foot being used is not
holding the fabric taut enough.
G. If all else fails, try sewing over paper.
Threads Jam at Start of Sewing
A. Hold the threads tightly for the first few
stitches
B. Place thread ends under and to the side
of presser foot instead of to the back.
C. Be sure the presser foot is down on thick
fabrics.
F
‘p
p
p
r
r
Machine Noisy
A. Clean and oil it.
B. If it is a punching sound, changing the
needle.
C. Stitch length dial is not at 4 when stretch
stitching—Set is at 4.
Bobbin Does Not Wind Properly
A. Machine is improperly threaded.
B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is worn
or not making contact.
C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in
position.
If your machine skips stitches only on certain fabrics, try all of the
above procedures before
calling a repairman.
Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and marks around
the needle hole open.
ing, your machine is not being cleaned properly. Always remov
e the needle plate and clean
the feed dogs periodically. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause
an accumulation of lint
which hampers the feeding mechanism, this in turn will cause
the operator to impatiently
pull or push the cloth causing the needle to bend and strike the plate,
foot or hook, causing
a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking will cause defects
making it necessary
to call a serviceman.
—62—
p
p
p
INDEX
ACCESSORIES
APPLIQUE
with machine 53, explanation and use 54,
55, 56,57, 58.
application 26.
BASTING
use 21
BLIND HEM
use 33, shell tuck decorative 32, shell tuck 34, inserti
ng lace 32, decorative
effects 34, topstitching 34.
BOBBIN
changing 1 1, winding 12, in accessory set
53,
threading 13. adiusting 13, changing 11 attachi
ng 11
changing 60.
3
BOBBIN CASE
BULB
BUTTONHOLES
explanation Glossary.
preparations 37, 55, determine length/width
38, built in buttonholes 38,
turn around buttonhole 40. corded buttonholes
41, stretch buttonholes 42.
eyelash buttonholes 39, 31, cutting buttonholes
39, buttonhole foot 55.
sewing on 24, 56, forming thread shank 24,
measuring for buttonholes 38,
button foot 56.
BUTTONS
CABINET
installation 8.
CAMS
list 51, 52, installation 20.
how to 59, oiling 60.
CLEANING
CLOTH GUIDE
.
use 58.
CORDING
with zipper foot 57.
CREATIVE PATTERN
CONTROL
use 50
DARNING
DECORATIVE EFFECTS
DECORATIVE STITCH
CONTROL LEVER
OVERLOCK
STITCH
EDGING
ELASTIC
EMBROIDERY
FABRIC
FACING
FEATURES
FEED DOG
FLUTTER HEM
FOOT (Presser)
how to 21, patching 27, mending 28.
with multiple zigzag 30, fun patterns 49,
wave, fish, swan, tulip, etc.
patterns 41, 50. 51, 52, with stretch blind
hem 32, tucks or designs with
twin needle 36. shell tuck 32, 34.
position an use
.
.
application 46, seaming 46, hemstitching 46.
topstitching 47.
use 31. flutter hem 29, lace 28. 45, overcasting
23, 27, applique 26,
seaming knits 23, 45, patching 27, facing 30,
shell tuck 32, lingerie seam
45, ultra stretch 48. topstitching 47, swan, tulip.
etc. 49, 50, 51, 52
application 29. thread shirring 22.
tapering and creative 25, manual designs
25, satin 25, topstitching (stretch)
43, 47,rick rack 44, hemstitching 46, swans,
tulip. etc. 49, 50, 51, 52.
proper needle size 18. proper thread size 18,
proper stitch length 18.
understitching 30, lace application 28, 32, 45,
elastic 29.
picture 5, 6, list 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58.
height 16, darning 21, sewing on buttons 24,
56. monogramming 26,
cleaning 59, part description 5, buttonhole
39, 40, 41, 42.
application 29.
changing 9, 54, buttonhole 38. 54. 55,
cording buttonhole 39, accessory
set 52, button 54, 56, zigzag 54. 43, 44,
47, 48, zipper 57.
1
F
‘a
—63—
FOOT CONTROL
connecting 8.
FUN STITCHES
pictures of fun stitches 51
GATHERING
over cord 27, elastic shirring 22.
,GLOSSARY
HEM
listing 1—4.
flutter type 29. overcasting 27, blind hem 33, shet tuck 32. 34.
stretch
blind hem 31
edging 31
lace 28, 32, 45, lingerie 45. hemstitcrnng 45
HEMSTITCHING
with overlock 46.
INTRODUCTION
front page.
LACE
52
inserting with tricot stitch 45, application 28, inserting with bhnd hem
stitch 32.
LINGERIE
seaming 45.
MAINTENANCE
cleaning 59, oiling 60, changing bulb 60, skipped stitches 61, tnread
breaking 61, needle comes unthreaded 62, needle breaks 62. materia’
puckers 62, thread jam at start of sewing 62. machine noisy 62, bobbin
does not wind properly 62.
MENDING
a tear 28, darning 21, patching 27,
MONOGRAMMING
free hand 26, manual embroidery 25, tapering and creative embroidery
25, 44, satin stitch 25, with choice of cams 51, 52,
MULTIPLE ZIGZAG
overcasting 27, patching 27, mending 28, lace 28, flutter hem 29,
elastic 29, understitching 30, decorative 30.
NEEDLE
changing 10, chart 18, basic information 19, twin needle threading 35,
16, single needle threading 14, 15, twin needle sewing 35, 36, accessory
set 53 problems 61, 62.
OILING
oiling points 60.
OVERCASTING
using multiple stitch zigzag 27, seaming knits 23, using zIgzag 23,
applique 26, flutter hem 29. understitchng 30, shell tuck 32, 34. edginc
31. stretch overlock 45, overlock 46, 47, ultra stretch 48.
PARTS
picture description 5, 6, accessories 53.
PATCHING
use 27, darning 21, mending a tear 28.
PIN TUCKS
with twin needle 36.
PORTABLE CASE
installation 7.
QUILTING
with guide 58.
REVERSE STITCH
BUTTON
use 20
RICK RACK
topstitching 44, tapering 44, procedure 44.
SATIN STITCH
use 25.
SEAMS
straight stitch 21. curved 22, turning corner 22, ending 23, seaming
knits 23, basting and topstitching 21. basting glossary, straight triple
stretch 43.
SHELL TUCK
how to 34, decorative with blind hem 32.
SHIRRING
elastic 22.
STITCH
stitch length dial 20, length guide 20, adlusting 17. chart 18, use of
straight 21, straight stretch stitch 43 topstitching stretch 43.
STRETCH STITCH
use 43. straight stretch 43, straight stretch topstitching 43, rick rack
44, tapering 44, tricot 45, overlock 46, ultra stretch 47. cams
19, thru 31,51, 52, stretch overlock 45.
—
W
b
b
V
b
V
b
—64—
b
4
z
STRETCH BLIND HEM
hemming 31, edging 31
SWITCH
Iite 6.
TAPERING
with rick rack 44, use 25.
TENSION
adjusting upper tension 17, adjusting lower 13, basting, glossary.
chart 18.
THREAD
buttonhole 31
THREADING
upper single needle 14, upper twin needle 35. 16. bobbin case 13, picking
up lower thread 15, for bobbin winding 12.
TOPSTITC HI NG
use 21, with blind hem stitch 34, with overlock 45, with straight
stretch stitch 43, with rick rack 44, with overlock 47.
TRICOT STITCH
application 45, lingerie seam 45, inserting lace 45.
TWIN NEEDLE
threading 35, 16, pin tuck 36, decorative 36, in accessory set 53.
ULTRA STRETCH
STITCH
application 48.
ZIGZAG
width control 18, overcasting 23. sewing on buttons 24, seaming knits
23. satin stitching 25, tapering 25, creative 25. embroidery 25, applique
26, monogramming 26, gathering 27, multiple stitch zigzag 27, lace 28,
patching 27, foot 43, 44, 47, 48, 53, 54.
ZIPPER
foot available 57, insertion 57. cording 57. accessory 53.
I.
a..
I.
39, decorative 32.
—65---
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