So, The Bus Wash Boys Did Your Roof!
The top's of our coaches probably receive less care than any other part. I noticed that I had a
problem when fairly large sheets of Temp Coat were found laying around the bus. Now the
Temp Coat repair was easy but, on close examination I found that both the front and rear
caps had failed clear coat.
Here's the fix. Now, this may be more than many want to tackle but really, it is not difficult.
Should you have concerns have a painter do the actual job of shooting the paint but,
everything else can be accomplished by nearly anyone. Guarantee this will provide two
things, one a better job and two a substantial savings over taking this to a body shop for
repair.
Step one, washing. Use Dawn or equivalent, couple of cap's in a gallon of water and wash
the area to be repaired followed by a good rinse with water.
Step Two, if there are just minor blemishes or small bubbles in the clear coat then use a
Scotch Brite Pad and smooth the surface. My case, the Scotch Brite also removed part of the
base coat; it was going to need both base and clear.
Step Three, masking. I would advise using the good green (3M) tape for the paint lines.
Because I did not want an open paint edge, on the back of the bus I brought the masking over
the top so the new base and clear would blend evenly. Its OK to use the cheaper tapes for
paper and plastic.
Continuing with the masking, next came a plastic wrap to avoid over spray from either the
base or the clear coat.
Do not forget to mask the antenna's and in my case the seam on the lid and the air
conditioning unit. Yeah, I know it's no pretty but it is functional.
Step Four, Preps-Sol. After all of the scuffing and masking and to remove any last trace of
wax or silicone that may still be clinging on, wipe the entire surface with a wax/silicone
removing solvent.
AT THIS POINT IF YOU HAVE NOT MUSTERED THE COURAGE TO PAINT, CALL A
PAINTER...THERE EASY TO FIND, BODY SHOPS, CAR DEALERS, CRAIGS LIST. If you
are just doing over the caps, like me, plan on a couple of hundred dollars.
Step Five, nope, I didn't call one, its time to paint. The following are my techniques, they work
well for me.
What you need:
1. A decent compressor with a water trapping device so as not to mess up the steps
down the line. Needs to deliver the requirements of your spray gun below.
2. A decent Spray Gun. I have a Binks (moderate pricing <200 dollars with a 1.3 spray.)
I use an HVLP gun, high volume, low pressure, to keep the launching of paint into the
atmosphere and onto anything close by, to a minimum.
3. Paint, I had the base coat in stock but I bought the Clear from NAPA. The standard
reduction for base coat is two parts base paint and one part reducer, remember no
hardener here. I used High Solids Clear which is a thicker coating that has increased
durability over standard clear coat. BTW, the clear requires a hardener to be added 5
clear, 1 hardener (I also use 10% reducer but others may not like that). The base
requires no hardener so any that you mix and do not use can go back into the can.
FYI, once you mix the clear, you have 4 hours to finish the job..aka, pot life!
4. Along with the paint one needs a reducer, fancy word for thinner and they come in
assorted flavors. Since, obviously, I did not utilize a spray booth, I wanted a thinner
that was fast drying or a low temperature reducer. Care should be used here but a
higher temp reducer dries slower allowing all manner of thing to find a home in your
new paint, flies, leaves, dust and the like. The low temp skins over fast so this kind of
an event is reduced to a minimum. No matter there is a later fix!
5. A couple of Tack Rags...these are sticky wax coated rags that are wiped over the
surface just prior to a the base and b the clear. Wad the damn thing up in a ball and
gently wipe the dust and debris from the surface.
6. A gallon or so of cheap lacquer thinner to clean up messes and your paint gun. No
need to use the expensive reducers for this. Reducers run about 16.00/qt. Paint BTW
is all over the map, my advice is to use a good quality base coat, perhaps 40.00/ quart
and a good quality clear coat, high solids kit (clear and hardener) run about
50.00/quart. Paint codes for your bus are helpful but may not always be the answer
(color coats, or base coats). All paints change color with age so if you can drag a
sample with you to your local paint shop (NAPA) you will be ahead. FYI it will take just
about a quart of “stuff” base, clear
O.K., I think were ready to go, let's do it. Dig out that old ugly garbage can and adjust your
gun, there are numerous videos on this topic, try You Tube.
THERE IS STILL TIME TO CALL THE PAINTER IF THIS STEP DID NOT WORK OUT .
Here we go.......................
Lay down an even coat of base on the surface. I use 35 psi at the gun but many other
settings will work as well! Hold your gun parallel to the surface, especially important if you are
painting metallic's. Paint like your wrist is in a cast and you will be fine. Wrist movement will
cause metallic's to build in places and be skimpy in others. Lay down a line of paint. Say
starting at the top and running back and forth, left to right and keep the trigger pulled until you
are clear of the painting surface.....I hope that makes sense! Next pass cover your first pass
by 50% and so on until you are done...bald spots??? No worries, let it flash, get sticky for a
ten minute period, and go back over the job. Your base coat is done and it will look all in the
world like you just laid down a rattle can of flat primer.
Go have a cup of coffee from your Black and Decker Pot.............
Time for the clear.
You actually have up to 24 hours before applying the clear coat so there is really no rush.
But, what the hay, were rushing...here come the clear!
It goes without saying that the gun needs to be cleaned prior to adding the clear, unless you
are a high roller and have multiple spray guns.
Mix the clear per instructions, add a bit of reducer if you like (I like), and tack the surface...with
the rag. Next lay down a tack coat, kind of thin, not covering too much and wait ten minutes.
Next go back, as previously described and lay down two coats of clear, allowing 10-15
minutes between coats.
YOU ARE FINISHED, Hopefully!
All right, this is your first rodeo and you ended up with a couple of sags or runs...do not worry!
Because the clear is made with a hardener you need to go back and carefully remove all
masking...do it now before things really start to dry. Not one large RIIIIPPPP but rather be
dainty about it. Get rid of the tape and masking to allow the clear to harden without becoming
part of the masking...all manner of hell will break open if you negate this step. Here is the
finished product...........
I was lucky, no runs, no sags...but what if there is a run or three?
Let it dry. Let it dry.....wait at least three days, a week even better thence attack the run with
2000 sand paper (wet sanding with a block) and finish it off with compound and finally some
3M finesse It if you really want a Ferrari Job!
Guys and Gals I am not advocating painting on your Prevost rather I am saying that it is not a
difficult task if you have the time and the patience. To gain confidence paint a lawn mower, a
garbage can.......at the end of the day you will be glad you learned how to paint.
Things to avoid,
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Harbor Freight Spray Guns and Compressors...Nuff Said
Rushing to finish the job today
Really old paint
Omitting any of the outlined steps
Practicing on a garbage can or equivalent
Cheap masking tape
HAVE FUN!