OCTON The old castle from Lauzières 1) Some history: There are two theories about the origins of the name Octon: “Octavianum” or “Octavius’s villa” or a Latin-Gaulish word octaviomagos meaning the village market at the 8th Roman milestone. At the time, there were milestones placed at equal distances all along Roman roads. Prehistoric remains were also found in a garden in the 1950s, no doubt from the Neolithic period, the same as other remains found in the surrounding villages. There is also a series of 13 dolmens on the Causse de Toucou. In the Middle Ages, most of the houses were to be found near Lauzières Castle, the remains of which are still visible today. According to tradition, Saint Fulcran (the Bishop of Lodève in the 10th century) was born near the Romanesque chapel of Lignous, where he was christened. The baptismal fonts in which Saint Fulcran was baptised were transported to Mérifons Church in Octon in 1950. The present-day village of Octon was formed by the population from the many surrounding hamlets and farmhouses. General situation: The village, with a surface area exceeding 2,000 ha, has natural boundaries formed by the surrounding hills and various streams, including the Salagou and the Lignous. The village is sheltered from the wind by the surrounding plateaux It is gathered together around a square and a central fountain and has several hamlets: Lauzières, Ricazouls, Basse, Toucou, Arièges Farm, Saint-Martin des Combes, which became a part of Octon in 1963, as well as the Mas de l’Eglise, Mas de Ruffas, Mas de l’Hébrard, Mas de Carles, Mas de Clergues and Mas de la Vialle. All of these hamlets and farms make up the present-day village of Octon. It lies between the plain and the mountains, which ensures it a variety of crops and food. Today, the village has more than 450 inhabitants. 2) To be discovered: The village square: The village square is immortalised by the monument “Le Griffe” built in 1901 on the initiative of Paul Vigné d’ Octon. An inscription appears on the fountain with the date of its construction. In 2009, the municipality decided to name this square “Paul Vigné d’Octon” in tribute to the great man of letters, the village’s Mayor for two mandates, and also a Departmental Councillor of the Canton of Lunas and a Member of Parliament for Hérault. The revolutionary calendar was chosen to mark the date of the monument’s inauguration. With Paul Vigné being a “progressive” in spirit, it was believed that this symbol would best express his political opinions. Four main streets depart from the square, the first leading to the town hall and the school, the second leading to the old oven (present-day post office) and Toucou, the third leading to Salasc, with the fourth leading to Lodève and Salagou Lake. Saint Etienne Church Saint Etienne Church dominates the village from its rocky outcrop. It has a rectangular layout, a Gothic style portal, a stained glass window, which is slightly shorter on the right, a large oculus on the gable, a square tower which acts as a bell tower, the old presbytery (now a restaurant), and a modern sacristy. The first reference to Octon Church appeared in 988 in Saint Fulcran’s will. In 1162, it was a possession of the lords of Lauzières and was used as a parish church, as was the churches of Lauzières and Roubignac. Originally, the church must have been much smaller and must have stood on the site of the present-day chapel of the Virgin, extending towards the presbytery. It was a church with a single nave comprising three rib vault bays, with chapels, a flat chevet and a cemetery on the side. The square bell tower provided a defensive function and was also used as a watchtower. In the 14th century, the church was equipped with a bell, with the dedication “Je vous salue Marie, la voix du seigneur résonne” (I hail you Mary, the voice of the Lord rings out). A second dedicated bell was installed in 1603. In the 17th century, the church was extended to rest against the bell tower. 12th century elements from the old Chapel of Lauzières were removed and placed in Saint Etienne Church: the southern portal and the nave’s two arches, as well as the key stones decorated with oak leaves. The presbytery was again extended in the 18th century. Painted motifs decorate the chapel of the Virgin and cover the nave’s vaults and walls. As for most chapels dedicated to the Virgin, the decoration depicts a midnight blue background dotted with stars or flowers. After the Revolution, and at the start of the 19th century, the village’s population increased by more than a third, in addition to the inhabitants of the surrounding hamlets whose chapels had been abandoned in favour of Saint Etienne Church. At the start of the 19th century, the church was in a poor state of repair and the roof was about to collapse. Between 1828 and 1834, there was much discussion about the church’s extension and subsidies for this work, with the town council also planning to build a community hall. The church’s extension was completed in 1840. The building was extended eastwards and the choir was moved to the west. At the end of the 19th century, the oculus on the eastern gable was fitted with stained glass windows by the master glassmaker Mauverney (the Lapidation of Saint Etienne and a Nativity scene in the Chapel of the Virgin). In 1902, the baptismal font chapel was fitted out: the three lancet windows were also produced by the Mauvernay workshops. The sandstone baptistery comes from the old Lauzières Castle. The school: In the first half of last century, schooling did not last very long; after completing the schoolleaving certificate, children started work. A handful continued on to high school or university. In 1951, the pupils of Monsieur Prades, who has a museum named after him in Lattes, worked on a monograph of the village. The pupils were able to carry out archaeological excavations, during which they found the remains of a fanum, a small Gallo-Roman temple. The school was very innovative in its activities thanks to its dynamic teaching staff which offered pupils a variety of activities, including archaeology, drama and film. The “Castle”: In 1650, Catherine de Lauzières, the wife of Duke d’Estrées, sold the barony she had inherited from her brother Charles de Lauzières-Thémines to Antoine Jougla, the paymaster general of Bas Languedoc. The barony was intact but Lauzières Castle was in poor condition. As for most castles at the time, its fortifications had been destroyed by order of Richelieu in order to prevent them from being used as a fortress to resist the king’s power. Also, the population was gradually abandoning these old insalubrious fortresses for villages in the plains, where they built more spacious houses surrounded by large areas of land. The castle and hamlet were abandoned in favour of the neighbouring villages. This transfer probably occurred in the 1630s. It was at this time that the “castle” was built in the village of Octon at La Vialle. The building started with the staircase, the large hall on the first floor, which was used as a courtroom for local trials by the lord’s bailiff. The date 1676 is engraved on one of the doors. The castle had its own chapel at the bottom of the park, of which the remains of a small apse are still visible. In 1755, in the reign of Louis XV, the barony changed hands again. After the Revolution, all the family’s goods were divided up and the castle became “national” property. After 1792, there was no more seigniory or seigniorial jurisdiction and the “castle” in Octon kept nothing more than its prestigious name. In 1809, “the castle” was sold to Monsieur Castanier. He, in turn, sold it in 1845 to Monsieur Reynes, who forged and installed the gates and portal surmounted with his initials “F.R”. In 1861, his daughter married the notary, Jules Vigné, who was the son of Blaise Vigné, the husband of Marie Antoinette Desalasc, the eldest daughter of the last lord to own the castle. Following the premature death of his wife, Blaise Vigné remarried and had a son in 1825, Jules, who, in 1861, married Mademoiselle Reynes, the daughter of Fulcran Reynes, the castle’s owner at the time. Jules had several daughters, including Madeleine Vigné, who married Paul Vigné of Octon in 1859. On the death of his wife, Paul inherited all his property, which he bequeathed to his second wife, who sold it in the middle of the 1950s to the family of the sculptor Dupin. Water: Flowing from the neighbouring plateaux, many springs (a total of six) pass through the village and empty into the Salagou. Today, two springs supply the village with drinking water, completed by water from a bore-hole, in the summer. Several attempts have been made to channel the water and store it: Ricazouls aqueduct, béals, wells and cisterns. The béals: In 1675, a béal supplied water to the square with another supplying water to La Vialle. Economy: The village survived for many years from mixed farming. In the 1950s, wine making dominated. At that time, all the shops needed for daily life could be found in the village. Wine grapes formed the main crop in the 1950s and covered an area of 300 ha. They were grown in the plain and on the slopes. There were also table grapes, in the same way as all around Clermont l’Hérault. Olive trees, producing 13,000 kg in 1949, were taken to the mill in Clermont. Chestnuts, timber, and cereal crops, etc. were also available. The village was selfsufficient for food for its population and livestock. The wool from the sheep was sold in Clermont and Lodève for the textile industry. The Cooperative Winery: The Cooperative Winery was built in 1943. Nowadays, it is no longer in service, but is used as a sales point. It belongs to “Les Vignerons de l’Occitane” group of wineries, based in Servian. Five private wine estates open to the public can be found in the village and offer the tasting and sale of their wines. Outside the village: Notre Dame de Roubignac Chapel: hamlet of Les Valarèdes In order to access this chapel, follow the hiking trail (pr26) or drive through the hamlets of Basse, Saint Martin des Combes and the village of Puech. The name Roubignac is said to come from “rouvre”, which is a variety of oak found in the surrounding area. The remains of a Gallo-Roman estate were found near the present-day chapel. The name Roubignac was first mentioned in 804 in the Gellone cartulary. The church participated in the construction or renovation of a large number of churches and chapels built by Saint Fulcran, who mentioned this church in his will dating from 988. This great Bishop had many religious structures built in his diocese and Roubignac was situated half-way between the village where he was born (Mérifons) and Lodève (the seat of the bishopric). It was a major religious centre in the area and attracted all the inhabitants from the surrounding area. It was a site for many pilgrimages and also miracles. Many Christians from the region and further afield travelled there in large numbers to pray, while others asked to be buried there. It was modified in the 12th century, and a symbolic iconography can be seen on the archivolts of the entrance portal and on the richly decorated interior capitals. On the tympanum, a Maltese cross is surrounded by two figures. Notre Dame used to belong to the Knights Templar and the bell gable still displays a Maltese cross. The building offers a rectangular layout measuring 17 m long and has a polygonal apse with a hip roof measuring 9.60 m wide, and a single nave with three east-facing bays. The building’s style is said to be composite, because it combines several periods. The entrance door is surmounted by a basrelief typical of 10th century Romanesque architecture with the arch of the southern window reflecting the Byzantine influence on the Romanesque style. Inside, the tribune, with its ribs and its vault with a double lancet arch, are characteristic of the 13th century. The church is lit by just three windows on the right and left of the choir, one of which has been walled up. It has a solid square bell tower raised along the entire width of the rear bay. This church formed the centre of a parish which included Lauzières, Toucou, Les Valarèdes, Mas Caudou and La Fourille. There were no villages around the chapel. In 1308, the church of Lauzières Castle became the centre of the parish of Roubignac, being the hamlet with the largest population. The parishioners were buried at Roubignac cemetery up until the Revolution. The parish was abolished at that time and was transferred to Octon Church. It was listed as a Historical Monument in 1654. Inside, there used to be a collection of 14th century painted wood panels. These were placed there in 1851 following the church’s renovation. Along with the altar, they formed a neo-Gothic complex depicting the Virgin which reflected the tastes of the time. They were completed during the revival of the cult of the Virgin Mary in the 19th century marked in France by the apparitions in Lourdes and La Salette. These events led to the restoration of many places of worship in France, some of which had been abandoned since the Revolution. This was the case of Notre Dame de Roubignac, with the idea being to create a centre devoted to the Virgin Mary in the Lodève region. The chapel was again abandoned and pillaged in the middle of the last century. On the first Sunday in September, pilgrims gather here for mass. The Toucou megaliths The main feature of this megalithic group, comprising thirteen dolmens and one menhir, is that it is built in basalt. The dolmens, mass graves of various types built in 4 and 3 BC, comprise solid stone slabs which form a funeral chamber. They are covered by a burial mound of earth and stone. The function of the menhir, formed by a single vertical stone, remains a mystery. Unlike the dolmens, no archaeological material (pottery, flint, bones, etc.) have been found to help to identify its role. The Lauzières de Thémines family: Their motto: “The leaves may tremble, but the trunk does not move” Lauzières: Lousse or Yeuses, land planted with yeuse, the Holm oak in Celt. The family’s unwritten history started in 890. Guilhem, the Count of Narbonne, the nephew of the Count of Toulouse and Charlemagne, gave the land of Euzière to his nephew Oton, who was already lord of Olmet and Villecun. Saint Fulcran (949-1006), the Bishop of Lodève, is said to have come from this same family. In 1096, Ginalfred de Lauzières took part in the first crusade with Pierre, the Bishop of Lodève, under the banners of the Count of Toulouse. The castle is said to date from the 12th century. In the 14th century, Rostaing I, took Catherine de Penne, the daughter of Hélène de Condouilhac of Thémines, as his second wife. This marriage created a great heritage for the family, which joined its name to that of the Thémines family. By the end of the 14th century, the family name, along with those in Soubès, Ceyras, Lacoste and Saint Guiraud, had formed two branches: the Soubès one, which disappeared in 1744, and the Saint Beaulize one, which disappeared in the 19th century. In the 15th century, the oldest branch settled in Quercy and joined forces with the Thémines family. The end of the 16th century marked the zenith of the family name, the head of which was Pons de Lauzières, the Marquis of Thémines. This branch disappeared in 1646. This family had links with the Guilhem family in Clermont and there is a townhouse in Clermont l’Hérault with the name of Lauzières Thémines, which dates from the 18th century. In 1350, Anglezy de Lauzières founded the Order of the Benedictines of Gorjan in Clermont and created a monastery. The church is still visible today and is part of the present-day’s hospital’s retirement home. In 1650, Catherine de Lauzières, the wife of the Duke of Estrés, sold the barony which she had inherited from her brother Charles de Lauzières Thémines, to Antoine Jougla, the paymaster general of Bas Languedoc, for the sum of 37,000 pounds. In 1650, the barony was still intact, but the castle was in very poor condition. The Lauzières family were also jointly the lords of Mourèze, along with the lords of Clermont. Marshall Pons de Lauzières Thémines served under the Duke of Montmorency between 1570 and 1588. He took part in the capture of Clermont in 1584, during which the Duke’s Protestant troops took control of the town after a long siege. The Duke named Pons the town’s governor. Pons also received the favours of King Louis XIII, who appointed him the seneschal of Quercy and later the governor of Brittany. He had a huge amount of property in Languedoc (Lauzières, Ceyras, Lacoste, Saint Guiraud, Soubès, Montesquieu, Pézenes, Bessan, and so on) and in Quercy. Antoine de Lauzières was the captain of Louis XIII’s guards and put an end to the life of Antoine Charles Juera, Richelieu’s brother, in a bloody duel. At the start of the 17th century, the family was in decline, with the deaths of the son and grandson of Marshall Thémines, leading to the end of the Thémines family name. During the Revolution, the property was seized and sold and nothing remains of the Lauzières’ estates. The last member of the family died in 1869 without an heir, marking the end of the Lauzières Thémines family. Lauzières Castle : Founded in the 12th century by the Lauzières family, the feudal castle used to protect a hamlet built against the fortified structure and also controlled the route. The castle was modified in the 14th and 15th centuries and was sold in the middle of the 17th century. The castle was gradually abandoned although the hamlet was occupied up until the end of the 19th century. Nowadays, all that is visible are various remains from different periods (especially the Renaissance) which have been restored and protected during the different works. These imposing ruins remind us that feudal power here used to be held by the powerful Lauzières family, which controlled the Salagou plain. Lauzières comes from the word Yeuses meaning "land planted with Holm oaks”. It gave its name and coat-of-arms to one of the oldest families in Languedoc. In the 13th century, there was a castle with a fortified wall and a wall-walk, etc., which have since disappeared as a result of later modifications. At the end of the 15th century, with the political context being more peaceful, the heavy fortifications were no longer required and the lords of Lauzières transformed their castle in order to make it more habitable. This was when the transom windows were opened on the southern facade. At the same time, the lords occupied increasingly prestigious positions and gradually lost interest in their modest castle in Octon, which they abandoned in 1626, before selling it in 1650. An engraving from the end of the 18th century depicts it still in a good state of repair. The buildings: Its abandonment was precipitated by the division of land following the French Revolution. Built on a small outcrop, directly on the ruffe, the castle’s structure employed local materials: yellow sandstone for the quoins, door and window frames and black basalt for the walls. The tower houses the square apse of a chapel (12th century). At the foot of the wall, the “fishbone” structure shows much older foundations. Behind the chapel, the large square tower used to house a spiral staircase, which has since disappeared, leading to the lord’s quarters. As you make your way around the castle on the right, you will access a platform facing the entrance. This space was probably walled and its access was protected by a fortified door. Below the platform, it is possible to see the ruins of the village nestling at the foot of the fortress. The castle was separated in two when the land was divided up at the start of the 19th century, and was occupied up until the middle of the 19th century. It still preserved some walls from the end of the Middle Ages and the modern era. Nowadays, all that remains is the lower part of the keep and the two towers from the fortified walls, the wall-walk, the vault over the entrance door, the guardroom and the walls overhanging the abandoned bourgeois houses. Note the variety of colours in its structure with the red, black and yellow sandstone. There are still some remains of the castle’s chapel, dedicated to Saint John, which stood on the first floor of a square tower. Inside, there used to be a chevet covered with intersecting ribs, as well as a chapel (north). Behind the chapel to the south there used to be a 3-storey square tower. This chapel became a parish chapel in 1335. The castle has been a listed Historical Monument since 1942. The village was finally abandoned by the Mathieu family in 1906. The association in charge of the preservation of Lauzières Castle is gradually renovating the castle and its hamlet and organises a meal and a concert on the last Thursday in July. A village of artists and famous figures: Since the last century, the village has attracted many nationally renowned artists. The most famous of them is the writer Paul Vigné d’Octon. Paul Vigné d’Octon 1859-1943: The son of a baker, he was born in Montpellier in 1859, but his family originally came from Octon. He lost his father at a young age and his mother, a fervent Catholic, sent him to seminary school. He learned Latin from an old sacristan during youth camps on the Larzac plateau, where also he discovered the local environment, the future inspiration for his novels. After completing his baccalaureate, he started University and studied medicine with great success. After qualifying in 1884, he travelled to the Antilles and Africa, where he served as a colonial administrator and naval doctor, despite his disability: his deafness. He returned home with material for five novels which he wrote between 1886 and 1887. He left the navy for his young love, who had been widowed, and the couple married in 1888. They settled in Octon in 1890. With very little income, he wrote articles for the daily newspapers, such as Le Figaro (often under a pseudonym) and it was his then director who advised Paul to use the name Octon. Between 1889 and 1893, he published ten novels and a collection of short stories. He enjoyed writing about the habits and customs of the people and countries he had encountered during his travels. He soon abandoned medicine for literature and moved from Octon to Paris with his wife. In the capital, he wrote two novels “Le roman d’un timide” and “L’éternelle blessée”, which were a great success and made him famous among the city’s literary circles. He distinguished himself as a doctor in 1893 in Clermont l’Hérault during the cholera epidemic raging in the town (an avenue has been named after him as a tribute) after the local doctors had abandoned the town and only Paul stayed behind to care for the sick, at the risk of his own life. The disease was eventually eradicated and he was carried triumphantly through the streets on the day of his departure. A few months later, he was elected as a member of parliament (1893-1906) thanks to his programme denouncing French colonial expansion, defending the spinning mills in Lodève and the wine making industry, and teaching and the farming world in general. He was also one of the most courageous and determined spokesmen against colonialism during the 3rd Republic. In one of his speeches, he declared: “(…) the son of a manual worker, straight out of the working class, I will never lose sight of what I owe manual workers, what I owe the people”. However, he was not a very assiduous member of parliament and did not participate in several of the major decisions at that time (law separating the church from the state, law of 1901 concerning associations, etc.), but, nevertheless, was re-elected member of parliament in the first round of voting in 1902! He was defeated in 1906 by Paul Pelisse, the Mayor of Paulhan. After this, he travelled to Africa to conduct ethnographic and sociological research. He refused the Legion of Honour several times. During these years in politics, he was very prolific and wrote no fewer than ten books set in our region (Le pont de l’amour, Pèlerin du Soleil, etc.). He also wrote some psychological papers. He later retired to the “castle” in Octon, where he led a simple life. He died at the age of 84 years in November 1943 and is buried in Octon. His complete works include 29 novels and many political pamphlets. He was a pioneer of naturism in Octon and was the village’s Mayor. The main square is named after him and the fountain was built during his mandate. Quotation: “This land of ruffe, the undulations of which fade into the distance in a mist of light and this peaceful landscape of its beautiful Octon valley with moors fragrant with wild thyme and lavender and the small hills which form a belt with their gentle slopes.” Albert Dupin A French artist and sculptor of bas-reliefs and abstract mural compositions, Albert Dupin was born in Toulouse (Haute-Garonne) on 29 April 1910, and studied at the city’s School of Fine Arts between 1926 and 1928. In 1945, he exhibited his sculptures at the city’s Autumn Fair, of which he later became a patron. Following this, he joined the “Montpellier-Sète” group of artists, founded in 1964. This group, established around the artist François Desnoyer, brought together artists such as Gabriel Couderc, Camille Descossy, Jean Milhau, Gérard Calvet and Elie Sarthou. What joined these artists was not quite so much their art as their attachment to the South of France. Dupin is the only sculptor to have joined the group. He took part in the First Young Sculptor Show in 1950-1951 at the Rodin Museum, and, in 1954, he was present at the May Show. In Montpellier, he left his mark on the University Paul Valéry when he created the entrance portal, as well as a series of sculptures for the Science faculty. He settled in the village of Octon, and, in 1957, he bought the “castle”, where he died in 2005. The village of Arts and Crafts: Created in 1995, the Village of Arts and Crafts offers artists’ studios, a classroom and a beautiful exhibition room. This venue for artistic creation and culture attracts artists and cultural stakeholders in need of working space. An annual programme is offered by the P.A.R.C association. Regular exhibitions on different themes and art forms are available at this venue, owned by the municipality. Salagou Lake On the footpaths to Lauzières de Notre Dame de Roubignac and Toucou, stop for a few minutes to admire the beautiful view over the village and Salagou Lake. Created 40 years ago in order to irrigate the Hérault wine making plain and limit the damage caused by the spates of the Hérault River, nowadays, Salagou Lake has a tourism vocation, Every year, it welcomes more than 250,000 visitors, who marvel at its magical landscapes in shades of red (the 250 million year old ruffe), green and white. Its multi-coloured waters give the lake an enchanting appearance. Although it is an artificial lake, the surrounding nature has adapted perfectly to this new environment and many protected animal and plant species live there in harmony with humans. Salagou Lake has been listed since 2003 and it recently joined Mourèze Cirque in a Grand Site Operation designed to protect it and develop it for receiving visitors. The Salagou is a small stream, barely 20 km long, which empties into the Lergue River, a tributary of the Hérault River. The lake covers 750 hectares over a perimeter of 28 km, covering seven municipalities. It holds an average of 102 million m3 of water. A quotation: “There are white lakes and black lakes everywhere, others dream in the grey mists which hide them, or admire themselves in the opal or emerald reflections which poets, with the brushes of their verse, spread over their waters. Salagou Lake, set in a shimmering landscape, is in the image of a rainbow... And, in the background, in the same way as a face made-up for an excessively vibrant show, the “ruffe” in provocative and purple shades of red”. Gaston Combarnous, author from Clermont l’Hérault. Ideas for Walks: From the village square, enjoy walks along several waymarked paths to Notre Dame de Roubignac (pr 28), Lauzières Castle and the Causse de Toucou Mountain biking trail: A mountain biking trail departs from the village square and follows a 13km route over the Causse de Toucou. Do not forget: The Hérault Federation for Fishing and the Protection of the Aquatic Environment It is in charge of promoting and monitoring the piscicultural area in the Department. It participates in the protection of the piscicutural heritage. It coordinates the actions of associations, contributes to setting up piscultural management plans and participates in development work. It ensures the promotion of fresh water fishing. It initiates information and education actions and manages the fishing rights it holds. It may be allocated public interest assignments related to its activities. Contact details: Address: Mas de Carles 34800 Octon Tel: 04 67 96 98 55 E-mail: [email protected], Website: pecheherault.com In Octon, there is a school which works with the municipality of Salasc, gites, a municipal gite for groups, hotels-restaurants, a pizzeria, the Café de la Place, the grocers, “Le Repounchou”, campsites, “L’Orange bleue” tearoom, a water sports centre, a media library and a branch of Clermontais Tourist Office (04 67 96 22 79). Last page: Useful address, to be seen in the surrounding area Texts: Clermontais Tourist Office Photo credits: CCC, Clermontais Tourist Office Acknowledgements: M Coste, M Cartayrade, Marc Draer, M Simon
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