Castrads Radiator Help Sheet
We want your Castrads radiator(s) to arrive in perfect condition and be kept in perfect condition to
ensure they last you a lifetime. Mishandling during carriage can lead to faults. In order to ensure that
your radiators do not get damaged during handling, please note the following; Unpacking your radiators
Your radiators will arrive flat on a pallet wrapped in black plastic. Cut the securing straps then gently
ease each radiator into an upright position. To avoid strain on the middle gaskets radiators should be
carried upright using pieces of wood as handles at either end of the radiator. Your valves, wall stays
and any accessories will be in the plastic bag shown here at the front of the pallet. Please check the
contents of bag and pallet asap on arrival to ensure all items ordered are present and correct . During
preparation your radiator was tested with water at 6 bar. Small amounts of water will remain. Over days
this may become black/brown due to oxidation. When carrying the radiator be sure to insert rag or
valves in the open ends so that dirty water does not spill on to your carpet.
Paint.
Damage to paint in transit is minimised by use of packaging. However, small scratches often occur
during unpacking and handling. For this reason a can of touch up paint is supplied.
Notes Important for Installation of Your Radiator.
The most common cause of leaks is over tightening of the valve tails into the bottom bushes of the
radiator. Over tightening will crack the bush. This is especially true of the King 768 and 5 column
models which have smaller bushes.
When screwing the valve tail in to the bush turn it finger tight then using a spanner turn it max ½
turn more till there is only mild resistance. A thread sealant must be applied to the valve tail threads
to get a watertight seal. LSX sealant available at all plumber’s merchants is highly recommended for
this purpose. PTFE tape may be used as an alternative but does not always guarantee a watertight
seal on first application.
It should not normally be necessary to unscrew the bushes, but if for any reason you do, retighten
them gently, enough only to create a good seal. 18” Stilsons should not be used! The torque from an
8” adjustable spanner is more than enough to create a good seal.
The male thread on each bush on the bleed valve side of the radiator is left hand thread i.e. turn
anticlockwise to unscrew. This is the thread that screws into the radiator casting.
The female threads on the bushes on the bleed valve side of the radiator are normal right hand
thread. This is the thread that the inlet or outlet valve or bleed valve screws into.
The threads on the opposite side of the bleed valve are all normal right hand thread.
Pipe Connection
Your radiator can be connected in 3 out of 4 ways. Please check the table below. If you want to
connect using the TBOE or TBSE method (middle in the table) Please advise us in advance and we’ll
put the bushes in the right places for you. If you really must connect by the 4th BTSE method, please
advise us when placing your order and an internal extension tube will be fitted to ensure even heat.
There is a charge for this.
Bottom Bottom
Opposite Ends
(BBOE)
Top Bottom
Opposite Ends
(TBOE)
Top Bottom Same
Ends
(TBSE)
Bottom Top
Same Ends
(BTSE)
YES
YES
YES, though the end
section may be a
little cooler.
NO





 

Most
of rad
stays
cool

Water Treatment
Castrads recommends that the system is flushed after fitting your radiator. A corrosion
inhibitor/antiscale additive should be added to the system. Fernox supplies a range of such additives,
and flushing chemicals.
Cast iron radiators are flushed before delivery. Never the less particles can become dislodged and
migrate around the system. Occasionally this leads to boiler or valve problems. To insure against
this Castrads recommends a combined particulate/magnetic filter in the return leading to the boiler.
We recommend the Fernox TF1 filter. It’s what we use on our Manchester factory central heating
system.
Wall Stays
Wall stays should be clamped between 2 adjacent columns of the radiator. The pictures below show
examples. The long threaded rod should be cut to length so that the radiator is close to the wall.
The clamping plates should be in the positions shown. The middle image shows the hooked wall stay.
The threaded rod should be slid over the handle then crimped tight using Molegrips to reduce play.
After cutting the rod to length, screw the handle to the wall. Then offer the radiator up to the stay and
adjust the position of the rear plate. Finally screw the outer plate tight using the nut. A 10mm socket
spanner is useful at this stage.
Radiator Assembly.
1. Place the part assembled radiator on a sturdy
bench or stout pieces of wood on the floor. The
radiator must be sufficiently raised from the floor
that the tool can be turned unhindered. Insert the 2
nipples turning them a ¼ turn or so, the minimum
to hold the nipple in place. Note that each nipple
has a left hand thread and a right hand thread.
Likewise one end of the radiator is left hand and
one end is right hand thread. Put a gasket around each nipple.
2. Offer up a section of radiator squarely then turn the 1st nipple
a couple of turns so that one end of the section is secure but
loosely attached.
3. Repeat the procedure at the other end of the section. Tighten
the nipples a couple of turns at a time moving from one nipple to
the other until both are tight.
For very heavy radiators the job is much easier if you
use 2 identical sack trucks as a bench. Place two stout
pieces of wood on top of the sack trucks, This creates a
level surface which facilitates alignment of the sections.
The radiator is then easily manoeuvred into place once
assembled. Castrads has used this method on radiators
up to 400 Kg!
“Bent” Radiators
Sometimes a radiator can appear bent or banana shape. Being made of cast iron the metal of the
radiator is not actually bent. The appearance arises out of the small amount of play in the joints
before they are tightened. If the play in joints of successive sections is offset in the same direction a
slight curvature will result.
The effect is easily cured. The joints need to be loosened on a flat surface then retightened. The
radiator will then be straight. If you use 2 sack trucks as above, 2 pieces of wood at least 75mm
square can act as the flat surface.
Radiators in Full Polish
Radiators in full polish are prone to rust. Up until 16th March 2013 Castrads recommended the same
method for rust control as other suppliers, regular rub downs with wire wool followed by application of
WD40. A chore you can do without!
Castrads has now developed a transparent polymer coating, Castrads Rustban, that protects against
rust. Your polished radiator will be manufactured with this coating on by default. No more rubbing
down and WD40.
Castrads Rustban is only available at Castrads.
www.castrads.com [email protected] Tel 0161 439 9350 Fax 0161 662 7266