DEPARTMENT OF THE AIR FORCE USAF ACADEMY, COLORADO 29 July 2014 MEMORANDUM FOR HQ/USFAFA Office of International Programs (DFIP) FROM: HQ USAFA/AFCW (Cadet Cultural Immersion Participants Listed in Paragraph 1) SUBJECT: Cultural Immersion Program to Cambodia, sponsored by the Class of ‘81 Endowment 1. Travelers: Col Martin France (DFAS), C1Cs Dylan Juedeman (CS-37) and Winston Sanks (CS03), C2Cs Lucas Stensberg (CS-36), Hansena Vangen (CS-31), and Annie Von Seggern (CS-22) 2. Preparation: Five cadets were selected by DFIP and Colonel Martin France, Department of Astronautics, for this cultural immersion trip. The team accomplished an Independent Study 499 course cooperatively sponsored by the Department of Political Science. The 499 course focused on the reign of the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979), its aftermath, and the current political and developmental state of the nation. Below are several books from the course reading list: · Children of Cambodia's Killing Fields: Memoirs by Survivors -Pran, Dith · The Last One: An Orphaned Child Fights to Survive the Killing Fields of Cambodia Yann, Marin R. · Pol Pot: Anatomy of a Nightmare - Short, Philip · Surviving Cambodia, The Khmer Rouge Regime - Lim, Bun T. · Alive in the Killing Fields: Surviving the Khmer Rouge Genocide - Nawuth Keat · When Broken Glass Floats: Growing Up Under the Khmer Rouge- Chanrithy Him · Cambodia's Curse: The Modern History of a Troubled Land - Brinkley, Joel · A Short History of Cambodia: From Empire to Survival- Tully, John · The Elimination: A survivor of the Khmer Rouge confronts his past and the commandant of the killing fields- Panh, Rithy · Escaping the Khmer Rouge- Chileng Pa with Carol Mortland · The Pol Pot Regime: Race, Power, and Genocide in Cambodia- Kiernan, Ben Additionally, the spring 2014 semester was utilized getting vaccinations, arranging flights, researching things to do and see in Cambodia, and acquainting ourselves with the NGOs with which we'd be working, Equitable Cambodia and Developing World Connections. 3. Goals: The goals of this trip were to expose cadets to Cambodian culture and introduce them to the strategic history of the region and its relationship with the United States. Additionally, the cadets worked with a Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) in a service role to learn more about the country and its people first-hand, as well as learned about the operation of NGOs in the developing world. These goals were accomplished by traveling to historical sites, museums, and meeting people from different regions, age groups and backgrounds. We traveled to urban and rural areas in Cambodia to include Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Angkor, Tonle Sap Lake, Kampot, Kep, southern farmland, coastal, mountain, and river delta regions. Two weeks of the trip were devoted to participation in community service by building four brick latrines for families in the village of Odong. We accomplished the service projects by working with the following NGOs: DEVELOPING WORLD CONNECTIONS is a Canadian Charity, non-profit society, and international volunteer experience provider. They partner with registered non-profit grassroots organizations in host countries who direct their energies toward sustainable development projects and programs. EQUITABLE CAMBODIA has a long history of facilitating volunteer placements where young people, students, interns and professionals have the opportunity to participate in meaningful cultural exchanges, short-term trips and work placements in Cambodia where they can learn about the people and culture of Cambodia, have meaningful and illuminating interactions with Cambodians and work to make tangible, positive impacts on the people and communities with whom they work. 4. Itinerary: Travel Agent: Mango Tours, Sokkheang Ly, www.MangoTours.com; Intrepid Travel, Kheng Senh, www.IntrepidTravel.com Day 0-2: Travel 20-22 June 2014: The cadets arrived to Col France’s house on the night of 19 June 2014 for pizza and a bag drag. The group left for Denver Airport by shuttle early on 20 June. Travel to Phnom Penh took approximately 36 hours with connections in Seattle, and Seoul. Day 3: Phnom Penh 23 June 2014 The Assistant Defense Attaché, Maj TJ Cerullo (US Army), set up a meeting with representatives from the US Agency for International Development, Politico-Economic Sections, and the Peace Corps. We had two full hours with these four. Each of them briefed us on current activities and discussed projections and priorities. We had plenty of questions and they were extremely informative and helpful. We learned of US priorities (human rights, political stability, education, and food and health stability and availability) and how Cambodia is slowly changing in the face of overwhelming corruption and decades of single-party rule with little real democracy. Day 4: Phnom Penh 24 June 2014 The Cambodian Royal Palace was our first stop. From the Palace we went to Wat Phnom, a large Buddhist temple on a 27m high hill in the center of the city and then to another Buddhist Temple to see the monks praying and watch as they were served lunch--very peaceful and interesting. There was also a fair-trades gift shop and working areas for craftspeople who were sewing silk articles and doing wood carving. Our next stop was the complete opposite of our temple visit--the dark, terrifying Genocide Museum at the former school which was turned into the Pol Pot Regime's center for torture and execution of many of Cambodia's educated citizens and leaders from the former Lon Nol Regime. Standing in the S-21 prison and the Killing Fields was a shocking and, honestly, terrifying experience. It’s one thing to rationally know that a tragic event has happened somewhere, another to stand among the cells and the fields where the acts have taken place, and quite another to see the scratches on the walls, the chains and torture implements on display, and photos of the victims before their deaths – or to see the skulls of thousands within the Stupa at Choeung Ek and a tooth and a femur bone of a victim sticking 2 out of the ground (due to eroding rains, remains of victims are still being found today, nearly four decades later). The realities of what happened in this country became very real for us, and resolving that reality with what exists now was a humbling and eye opening experience. BBQ with Cambodian Students: We joined some English teachers, officers and NCOs from SOCPAC for a barbecue and discussion with Cambodian National Defense University students who are in the English Language Immersion Program. The cadets had a great time mingling with the Cambodian students and officer trainees. Day 5-8: Siem Reap 25-27 June 2014 The final cultural, tour-based part of this immersion was visiting the ancient Khmer temples constructed as early as the 10th century. The temple complex, known as Angkor, is the largest in the world, covering over 400 square kilometers and consisting of 246 individual temples. Angkor Wat, the largest temple in the complex and the largest religious monument in the world was our second stop after a smaller temple. Over 720 meters of carved sandstone revealed the Hindu stories fundamental to the Khmer culture’s religion, as well as the history of the time the temple was built, including laws and punishments implemented among the Khmer people. We proceeded to Angkor Thom, famous for its 216 large Buddha faces carved into the ornamentation of the temple spires. Ta Prohm: Overgrown with plants and picturesque banyan trees, this temple featured in the Tomb Raider movies was our next stop. Later we visited Banteay Srei, a smaller but very ornate temple in a rural area far from the other temples. Day 9: First day on the Job in Kep 30 June 2014 In the village of Odong our group was split up into two groups of Colonel France, C/Sanks, and C/Von Seggern and another of C/Juedeman, C/Stensberg and C/Vangen. The first work locations were very close together making communicating with the families and contractors much simpler. The first day included starting to dig the holes to act as septic tanks (four large cement rings to be almost completely buried under the ground behind the latrines) and laying the first rows of bricks as the foundation for the latrine. Day 10-12: Kep 1-3 July 2014 The next three days included layers of garbage and tree stumps to dig through, a very shallow water table continuously filling the holes with water and rain. We learned new skills including properly laying bricks and putting stucco on the walls of the latrine from workers who couldn’t speak English outside of telling us “no” when we were doing something wrong. We caught on quick enough to make major progress and by Thursday had a product that actually resembled a structure that would withstand some of the monsoon weather. The families also provided us with freshly picked coconuts to drink and bananas to snack on. 3 Day 13: Kep 4 July 2014 1st and 2nd Latrine Completion – July 4th Celebration We picked up some snacks and drinks to share with the two families in order to celebrate July 4th and celebrate finishing the two outhouses. It was an incredible experience to learn so much from these villagers. The families even taught simple words to make communication simpler. C/Vangen and C/Von Seggern also experienced the difference in cultures regarding how female labor is viewed. The female children from the families would just sit and watch, somewhat confused that the female cadets were working alongside the contractors, their fathers and brothers. The Cambodian men who were working at the sites were also very cautious of what C/Vangen and C/Von Seggern were doing. After spending two weeks in Cambodia, the 4th of July had a new meaning for us. Colonel France explained the history behind America’s independence aided by a translator, but we could tell the families did not fully understand why we celebrate such a historical moment. In two weeks we’d begun to see what life would be like if we did not have the independence we celebrate each year. Day 14-15: Kep 5-6 July 2014 Break from Work: We headed for Kampot, a nearby city, but then travelled on to Bokor Mountain. A couple of temples, a massive statue, an abandoned casino, and a new resort were at the top which we explored. On our second free day we rented a boat and driver for the day and went island hopping. The first stop was a small fishing village on a smaller island and then we travelled to Rabbit Island, which was an experience in itself. We got caught in a major downpour with waves that rocked the boat and soaked us to the bone. The sun reappeared once we reached the island. Day 16: Kep 7 July 2014 The group went to a new village to begin work on the new latrines. They decided to keep the two teams the same to have a “rematch” of sorts to see which group could finish their latrine faster. It was a cooler day as well as a longer work day, which facilitated more progress. The extra hours and the materials right by the site along with everyone now having experience put both groups far ahead of the first day of the last latrine project. This would prove to be critical because of impending weather. Day 17-18: Kep 8-9 July 2014 We experienced flooding early in the morning. When we arrived at the village the tree-trunk bridge leading to the worksite was submerged. The storm showed little indication of letting up, so the group decided it would be a waste of materials if they tried to work. The next day the group faced another day of bad weather and contractors made the call that they would not work. It was important to respect the Cambodian contractors’ decision as they knew the working conditions and did not want to waste their mortar in the torrential rain. The group kept a positive attitude and got to enjoy a little free time. C/Stensberg and C/Vangen went mountain biking on a trail nearby. The evening concluded with the usual dinner as a group. Day 19: Kep 10 July 2014 The teams worked hard on this last day to get done the most possible work. Colonel France, C/Sanks, and C/Von Seggern finished the stuccoing of the walls of the latrine which marked their second 4 completed latrine. The other group was able to stucco the outside walls. Communication was tough, but the villagers were able to express their gratitude for the help that we provided. It was a bittersweet moment finishing the work because it felt good to complete the project, but we knew that the trip was ending. Everybody found it to be a truly rewarding experience. Day 20: Kep to Phnom Penh 11 July 2014 Outreach with the Community The group traveled to a school that was set up by a Korean NGO where we sang, danced, and played soccer with the students. Everybody had a great time and worked up a sweat. The children seemed thrilled to play with such different visitors. It was a very special moment everyone. Next, the team stopped by an artisan shop where they sold scarves, bags, trinkets, necklaces, dolls and more, and where we could see local business at work. Day 21: Transit 12 July 2014 The flight back home consisted of a five hour trip from Phnom Penh to Seoul-Incheon and a 10 hour layover. During that time we visited a temple, market, and palace. There was contrast between Cambodia and Korea (far more developed). It was valuable to see an additional part of Asia. After Korea, we flew to Seattle for the connecting flight to Denver. Recommendation: Future cultural immersions should strongly consider partnering with Developing World Connections (POC: Ashley Ekelund) and Equitable Cambodia. Immersions to these locations would benefit from using Intrepid Travel, Mango Tours Cambodia, and our guides and leaders: Dan Tc, Sotheavy Sov, Sokkheang Ly, Kheng Senh, and Savorn Toem. These organizations and people made this such an amazing, memorable, and important experience for all of us. Conclusion: We are grateful to the USAFA Class of 1981 and the Olmsted Foundation for their generous funding that supported this trip. We also appreciate those who followed us via Col France’s blog and sent encouragement. This report includes excerpts from Col France’s blog (which can be found here). Photos courtesy of Marty France Photography (link to full album is here) The following summaries from two participants illustrate the impact these weeks had on all of us: Experiencing Cambodia firsthand was one of the, if not the, most life-changing experiences of my life. It exposed me to ways of living that one simply cannot find in America. I am extremely grateful to have been able to go on this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The most memorable part of the Cambodia trip was the poverty that I saw. The lack of sanitation and danger was astonishing and nobody seemed to even notice. This will have an effect on me throughout the rest of my life because if I ever find myself complaining about something I can remember how people around the world have it much harder than I do. This will be especially useful as an officer in deployed settings because I will have already been exposed to new cultures and living standards. +++++++ Cambodia is an incredible country in every way that the word “incredible” could be defined. That said, there are considerable challenges that the country faces – political, economic, and social – and 5 the opportunity to gain the perspective of officials from the U.S. Embassy on these topics was extremely enlightening. Spending time with the Cambodian cadets and officers I saw that many of them are motivated by the same motivations as we have, have similar fears and aspirations, and are trying their best at the opportunities they are given every day just as we do. Knowing this, I will be able to work more effectively with officers and NCOs of partnering nations in the future. This has sincerely been a formative life experience and I am extremely appreciative for the opportunity. I cannot give enough thanks to all who were involved to make the trip happen. 6
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