English/Spanish3
1/4
Web Site
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
http://www.simplicity.com
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
3
4
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
12
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
6
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
5
10
NOTCHES
7
11
9
14
8
DOTS
17
13
21
D
E
18
19
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTISIZE PATTERNS.
20
1-FRONT -A,B
12-FRONT -D,E,F
2-LEFT FRONT -A,B
13-LEFT FRONT -D,E,F
3-BACK -A,B
14-BACK -D,E,F
4-COLLAR -A,B,C
15-LOOP -D,E
5-SLEEVE-A
16-COLLAR -D,E,F
6-ARMHOLE BAND -B
17-FRONT FACING -D,E,F
7-FRONT -C
18-BACK FACING -D,E,F
8-BACK -C
19-SLEEVE -D
9-SLEEVE -C
20-ARMHOLE BAND -E
10-LOOP -C
21-SLEEVE -F
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
To Quick Mark:
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• Pin mark dots.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
★
Sewing
SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
•
•
•
•
Cutting
Layouts
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
F
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
★
✻
Clip inner
curves
ALL SIZES
SELVAGES
FOLD
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
14
C TOP - SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY
A TOP - SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY
17
USE PIECES 7 8 10 11
SELVAGE
10
13
5
19
19
SEL.
SELS.
16
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
19
16
14
USE PIEZAS 7 8 10 11
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
CUELLO Y MANGAS CONTRASTANTES
USE PIEZAS 4 9
4B
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
17 FOLD
4C
E TOP
SELVAGE
22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
TODAS LAS TALLAS
1
6
INTERFACING
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SEL.
SEL.
4C 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
SELS.
ALL SIZES
4
FOLD
© Copyright 2004—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
4
FOLD
SINGLE
THICKNESS
USE PIECES 4 11
2
SELVAGES
6A 44" 45" (115CM)
11
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
14
17
18
16
FOLD
SEL.
CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUED ON PAGE 2
SINGLE THICKNESS
USE PIECES 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20
FOLD
3
22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
ENTRETELA USE PIEZAS 4 11
4
SELVAGE
2 58" 60" (150CM)
A,B ENTRETELA USE PIEZA 4
19
9
ALL SIZES
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
4A
18
13
15
SELS.
4B 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 6
2
C BLUSA - SOLO PARA MALLAS ESTIRABLES
FOLD
B TOP - SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY
B BLUSA - SOLO PARA MALLAS ESTIRABLES
TODAS LAS TALLAS
SEL.
USE PIECES 4 9
FOLD
19
SELVAGE
CONTRAST COLLAR AND SLEEVES
3
19
SELVAGE
5B 58" 60" (150CM)
FOLD
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
USE PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 6
12
7
SELVAGE
USE PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 5
1
SEL.
5
4
12
FOLD
SEL.
11
ALL SIZES
b.
SELVAGES
A BLUSA - SOLO PARA MALLAS ESTIRABLES
3
4A 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
2
15
8
1
1 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
16
18
FOLD
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5
SELVAGE
Español
5A 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
4
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
SELVAGE
SELS.
ALL SIZES
a.
SELVAGES
USE PIECES 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
USE PIECE 4
3 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
Notch outer
curves
D TOP
A,B INTERFACING
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
Trim corners
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
E
C
Mark small
✻
arrows along both
If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
SINGLE THICKNESS
D
B
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
11-FRONT FACING -C
A
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
16
F
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
CUTTING LINE
15
Cutting/Marking
SELVAGE
1
C
[email protected]
CROSSWISE FOLD
2
B
E-mail
General Directions
21 pieces given
A
e
✁
5098
®
D BLUSA USE PIEZAS 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
12
5A
44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
5B
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
15
20
13
E BLUSA USE PIEZAS 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20
6A
44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
SELVAGE
VER LA PAGINA 2
English/Spanish3
5098
Español
2/4
F TOP
7B 58" 60" (150CM)
USE PIECES 12 13 14 16 17 18 21
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
6B 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
20
12
SELVAGES
13
16
14
SEL.
16
14
18
17 FOLD
FABRIC
KEY
RIGHT SIDE
WRONG SIDE
12
INTERFACING
LINING
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
SELVAGES
21
21
FOLD
17
FOLD
SELS.
18
16
17
SEL.
16
FOLD
FOLD
Type Of Knit Fabrics
Needle
Sizes
Stitches To
Inch (2.5cm)
Single Knit—usually lightweight jersey,
tricot. Most have 50% stretch.
9, 11
10 - 12
Double Knit—most often used in polyester 11, 14
pants suits. Many have 18 — 25% stretch.
10 - 12
Sweater Knit—loosely woven.
Most have 100% stretch.
11, 14
10
Swimwear, Power Net Knits—
2-way stretch. 100% stretch or more.
14, 16
10 - 12
The Serger can be used alone or as a supplement to your conventional
sewing machine as a Fast, Efficient, Functional way to sew these
garments.
Using matching color thread, baste seams and try garment on. If no
adjustments are needed, overlock seams along basting.
SOCKET
6
KNOB
APPLY SNAP TAPE
Seam allowances are 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise indicated. If you
use a zig-zag machine... use a
narrow stitch, medium length; trim
seam to 1/4" (6mm) and overcast
edges together by machine. If you
use a straight stitch... stretch fabric
as you sew (unless working on a
firm double knit) and sew seams 2
or 3 times close together.
8
FOUR THREAD
W/ SAFETY STITCH
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
TODAS LAS TALLAS
SELVAGE (S) / SEL. (S) = ORILLO(S)
FOLD = DOBLEZ
SINGLE THICKNESS = ESPESOR SENCILLO
5. APPLY SNAP TAPE AS FOLLOWS:
• When placing snap tape on garment, make sure knobs and
sockets clear all seam lines.
• When stitching snap tape in place, use an adjustable zipper
foot.
• Separate knob half from socket half before applying to
garment.
6. With knobs face up, on OUTSIDE, pin one edge of knob half
of snap tape 5/8" (1.5cm) over remaining upper edge of front.
Trim upper end of tape allowing 1/4" (6mm) beyond small dot
for turning under. Turn under upper end at small dot. Stitch
close to inner edge of tape.
7
THREE THREAD
7B
4. Turn hem allowance on left front to OUTSIDE, over collar.
Stitch entire neck edge. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from first
stitching. Trim seam close to second stitching.
OVERLOCK SERGER
TWO THREAD
44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
4
CHECK FIT: Because, Overlock sewing stitches, trims and finishes all in
one operation, it is VERY important to Check Fit before stitching seams.
Use polyester/cotton thread and ball point needles.
7A
8
5
About Knits
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
D,E,F ENTRETELA USE PIEZAS 16 17 18
16
14
SELVAGE
F BLUSA USE PIEZAS 12 13 14 16 17 18 21
13
21
13
17
USE PIECES 16 17 18
64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
12
18
6B
8 22" TO 25" (55CM TO
16
SIMPLY THE BEST TECHNIQUES FOR
Sewing Directions
SELVAGE
7A 44" 45" (115CM)
18
SINGLE THICKNESS
15
D,E,F
INTERFACING
ROLLED HEM
7. Turn left front hem allowance to INSIDE. Press neck seam
and tape to INSIDE, pressing collar out. Stitch remaining
edge of tape in place and across end.
Seams: The three thread overlock is ideal for major seams such
as...shoulder, side, underarm and sleeve seams.
8. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch garment close to neck seam.
For stress areas such as crotch seams and armholes, the four thread
overlock/safety stitch is best...OR, use a three thread overlock, and
stitch along seam with a conventional machine to reinforce.
9
Edge Finishes: The two or three thread overlock stitch is a perfect finish
for edges of facings and hems...and a fast, easy Clean Finish for seam
allowances in unlined garments where seams are pressed open.
NOTE: A roller presser foot, used on double knits, will not stretch the top
layer of fabric and thus keeps seams even. On single knits, it will not
hold tricots and sometimes causes skipped stitches. For sweater knits, it
is a must since yarn loops catch on a regular foot.
9. With sockets face up, on INSIDE, pin socket end of snap tape
to lower edge of left front, having inner edge of tape extend
1/4" (6mm) beyond raw edge, as shown. Be sure that sockets
line up with knobs on front.
Trim upper end of tape allowing 1/4" (6mm) for turning under.
Turn under end. Stitch close to inner edge of tape.
10
Rolled Hem: A great, Narrow Hem alternative for finishing circular skirts,
ruffles, shawls and lingerie. See your sewing machine manual for
instructions.
10. Turn tape to OUTSIDE; press. Stitch remaining edge of tape
in place and across upper end.
11. Fasten front over left front. Baste armhole edges together.
Stitch/Serge front to back at side seams.
KNIT TOP A, B
11
12
12. Press up lower hem.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and 1/4" (6mm)
below first stitching.
1. Pin front and left front to back at shoulder seams. To prevent
shoulder seam from stretching, pin center of straight seam
binding along seam line on front shoulder edge.
Stitch/Serge.
1
2
3
SLEEVES A
2. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of collar, following
manufacturer’s directions.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar, leaving
notched edges open.
Trim seam; clip curves.
3. Turn collar; press.
Machine-baste raw edges together.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar (interfaced side) to neck edge,
matching centers, placing small dots at shoulder seams and
front ends at small dots. Baste.
© Copyright 2004—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
13. Stitch/Serge underarm seam of sleeve.
Press up hem. Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge.
13
14
14. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out.
Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you.
With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with
center small dot at shoulder seam, matching underarm
seams and remaining small dots. Stitch/Serge.
For conventional machine -Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from
first stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching.
Press only the seam allowance.
Sew purchased applique to garment front as shown on front
of envelope or as you prefer.
English/Spanish3
5098
ARMHOLE BANDS B
3/4
15. Stitch notched end of armhole band.
Fold band in half lengthwise, with WRONG sides together;
press. Pin.
15
10. Slash between stitching to stitching at the corners, being
careful not to clip through stitching.
Trim seam and corners; clip curves.
10
11
16
17
16. On OUTSIDE, pin band to armhole edge, placing small dot at
shoulder seam and matching side seams.
Stitch/Serge, stretching the band to fit.
For conventional machine -Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away
from first stitching within the seam allowance.
Trim close to second stitching.
11. Turn facing to INSIDE; press, pressing collar and loop out.
Tack facing to front armhole seams.
12
17. Press seam toward garment, pressing band out.
On OUTSIDE, straight or zig-zag stitch garment close to
armhole seam.
1
12. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch neck edge close to seam and 1/4"
(6mm) from front opening edges, pivoting with needle in
fabric at corners. Sew button to neck edge opposite loop,
when garment is finished.
13
KNIT TOP C
13. Press up lower hem.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and 1/4" (6mm)
below first stitching.
1. Fold loop in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together.
Stitch a scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, stretching loop
while stitching.
WOVEN TOP D, E, F
With a needle, attach a strong thread to one end of loop.
STAY-STITCHING
1. Stay-stitch front neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut edge in
direction of arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and
helps prevent stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will
not be shown in the following illustrations. To reinforce front
neck edge, stitch along seam line for about 1"(2.5cm) each
side of large dot. Clip to stitching at large dot.
1
2
2. Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning loop RIGHT
side out.
3
4
Make bust and waistline darts in front. Press bust darts down
and waistline darts toward center.
3. On OUTSIDE, pin loop to RIGHT half of front just below small
dot, placing ends at center front. Baste across ends.
2
4. Stitch/Serge front to back at side seams.
2. FOR VIEW D -On OUTSIDE, pin piping to upper LEFT edge
of front having cording extend below seam line and flat edge
within seam allowance, tapering upper end into seam
allowance at large dot. Baste along seam line.
5. Stitch/Serge underarm seam of sleeve.
Press up sleeve hem.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge.
5
LOOPS D, E
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge,
matching seams. Stitch/Serge.
For conventional machine -Trim seam below notches.
Press seam toward sleeve.
6
3
3. Fold loop in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together.
Stitch a scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, stretching loop
while stitching.
With a needle, attach a strong thread to one end of loop.
Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning loop RIGHT
side out.
7. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of collar, following
manufacturer’s directions.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar, leaving
notched edges open.
Trim seam; clip curves.
4
4. Cut loops into three equal pieces. On OUTSIDE, pin loops to
front, centering ends over small dots and having raw edges
even. Baste. Sew buttons to left front at small dots when
garment is finished.
TIP: If using buttons to cover, use garment fabric remnants
and follow manufacturer’s directions for covering.
8. Turn collar; press.
Machine-baste raw edges together.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar (interfaced side) to neck edge,
matching centers, small dots and placing front ends at center
front at small dots. Baste.
7
8
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS D, E, F
NOTE: Illustrations will show View F unless otherwise stated.
5
9
9. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of front facing,
following manufacturer’s directions.
With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to front and neck edge
over collar, matching centers and small dots.
Baste along center front line. Stitch along stitching lines on
front facing and along seam line on entire neck edge pivoting
with needle in fabric at small dots, as shown. Stitch neck
edge 1/4"(6mm) from first stitching.
© Copyright 2004—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
STAY-STITCHING
5. Stay-stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) from neck edge of left front. With
RIGHT sides together, stitch left front to front, stitching from
armhole edge to large dot. Back-stitch to reinforce.
6
6. Press seam down, pressing piping and loops up for Views D
and E. Bring clipped edge of front to OUTSIDE, as shown.
Baste neck edges together.
English/Spanish3
5098
4/4
7. Stay-stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) from back neck edge. Make dart in
back; press toward center. Stitch center back seam from
lower edge to notch; back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam.
Stitch/Serge front to back at shoulder seams.
Stitch front to back at side seams from large dot to armhole
edge. Back-stitch at large dots to reinforce seams.
STAY-STITCHING
7
17
17. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on LEFT back opening edge and
1/2" (1.3cm) on RIGHT back opening edge. Pin RIGHT back
edge to zipper tape, placing pressed edge close to zipper
teeth and tab end of zipper 3/8” (1cm) below upper edge of
opening. Turn upper end of zipper tape over seam allowance.
Baste. Pin and baste LEFT back edge to zipper tape, lapping
LEFT back 1/8" (3mm) over RIGHT back. Turn upper end of
zipper tape over seam allowance. Baste. Stitch as basted,
using an adjustable zipper foot. Sew a hook and eye at neck
edge when garment is finished.
8
8. Apply fusible interfacing to two collar sections, following
manufacturer’s directions.
18
18. Press up lower hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch hem in place.
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on slit opening edges.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge; stitch, squaring
stitching above opening.
9. FOR VIEW D -On OUTSIDE, pin piping to curved edge of
collar having cording extend below seam line and flat edge
within seam allowance, tapering one end into seam
allowance at small dot. Baste along seam line.
9
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS D, E, F
SLEEVES D
19
19. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve.
10. With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar section,
leaving notched and center back edges open.
Trim seam; clip curves.
10
20
21
11
11. Turn collar sections; press.
Machine-baste raw edges together.
20. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve facing. With RIGHT sides
together, pin sleeve facing to sleeve at lower edge, matching
seams. Stitch lower edge. Trim seam; clip curves.
21. Turn sleeve facing to INSIDE; press.
Baste raw edges together.
22
SLEEVES F
12. Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching along curves.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar sections (interfaced side) to neck
edge, matching centers back, placing small dots at shoulder
seams and front ends of collar at small dots. (Piping will
extend beyond small dots for View D.) Baste.
12
13
13. Apply fusible interfacing to front and back facing sections,
following manufacturer’s directions.
Stitch shoulder seams of facing sections.
To EDGE FINISH unnotched edge...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from
edge, turn under along stitching and stitch OR zig-zag over
the edge OR overlock/serge over the edge.
22. Press under hem allowance on side and lower edges of
sleeve. To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet
crease. Press. Stitch hem in place.
Stitch/Serge underarm seam.
ARMHOLES D, F
23. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out.
Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you.
With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with
center small dot at shoulder seam, matching underarm
seams and remaining small dots. Stitch/Serge.
For conventional machine -Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from
first stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching.
Press only the seam allowance.
23
Machine-stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) from entire neck edge of facing.
Clip neck edge of facing to machine-stitching
24
14
24. FOR VIEW F -On OUTSIDE, center closed frog closures over
left front seam, spacing them evenly. Hand sew frogs in place
invisibly.
14. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to neck edge over
collar, matching centers, shoulder seams and large dots.
Stitch neck edge. Trim seam; clip curves.
ARMHOLE BANDS E
15
15. To understitch press facing away from garment; press seam
toward facing. Facing side up, stitch close to seam through
facing and seam allowances.
25
25. Stitch ends of armhole band together. Fold band along fold
line, with WRONG sides together, having raw edges even.
Baste.
26
27
16
16. Turn facing to INSIDE; press, pressing collar out. Baste
center back edges together. Tack facing to shoulder seam
allowances.
26. On OUTSIDE, pin armhole band to armhole edge of
garment, matching seams and placing small dots at shoulder
seams. Stitch/Serge.
For conventional machine -Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from
first stitching. Trim seam close to second stitching.
27. Press seam toward garment, pressing band out.
© Copyright 2004—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.