Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
Naturalized bulbs are inexpensive, relatively low maintenance and self propagate
by offsets and seed, rewarding us year after year. In this article, I include plants
that have related underground food-storage systems, such as corms, tubers
and rhizomes.
In the Woods
My first garden bordered a ravine and, while blessed with large trees, it lacked
a diversity of understory plants. Plants that did bloom displayed a softer palette
than I desired, which perceptually pushed the woodland further back into the
distance. To visually draw the woodland closer to the house and to add focalpoint plants, I experimented with bulbs with brightly colored flowers. I stuck with
a limited selection of large yellow trumpet daffodils, including ‘Golden Harvest’,
‘King Alfred’, ‘Dutch Master’ and ‘Unsurpassable’. These provided visual impact
and appeared more familiar in the woodland than some of the more unusual
exotic-looking daffodil varieties. Also, local squirrels didn’t seem to favor snacking
on them.
Daffodils and muscari (foreground) with a hens and chicks covered log
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Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
Rather than throwing the bulbs in the air and planting them where they landed,
as is sometimes done when naturalizing bulbs, I mimicked the trees’ overhead
branch pattern and their surface root pattern, as well as the meandering lines
of the woodland paths. This resulted in graceful drifts, as opposed to a more
random look.
I also considered the garden’s appearance when the bulbs went out of flower,
since the foliage needs five to six weeks to ripen, essential to return plant food
to the bulb. Fortunately, there are many shade-tolerant plants such as ferns,
hostas, hellebores and bergenias that make good foils. These plants along with
woodland groundcovers such as foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia) and wild ginger
(Asarum canadense) helped keep the soil cool and shaded, to the bulbs’ benefit.
It wasn’t long before I started adding bulbs with different colors, forms and
textures, such as large-cup daffodils (‘Carlton’ and ‘Ice Follies’), white-flowered
snowdrops (Galanthus spp.), buttery-yellow woodland tulips (Tulipa sylvestris),
winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), mottled leaf pagoda trout lily (Erythronium
‘Pagoda’), checkered fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) and deep-blue camas lily
(Camassia quamash ‘Blue Melody’). My friend and bulb aficionado Ferdinand
Otawa plants colorful species tulips such as Tulipa praestans, T. humilis,
T. tarda and T. bakeri, which squirrels seem to avoid eating, in his woodland
garden. I looked for bulbs that would combine beautifully with trilliums (Trillium
grandiflorum), woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata) and evergreen Christmas fern
(Polystichum acrostichoides).
Delightful checkered fritillaries add wonderful color and texture
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Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
For summer interest, I planted martagon lilies (Lilium martagon), which performed
well until the arrival of lily beetles last summer. I included the magnificent
Japanese Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema sikokianum) for its mottled foliage and
white club-like Jacks. I had some indoor amaryllis bulbs that did not bloom, so
rather than throw them away, I planted them along the woodland edge in the
spring. Some bloomed, adding summer whimsy.
To provide fall and winter interest, I used broad bands of autumn crocus (Colchicum
spp.), hardy Cyclamen hederifolium planted along the woodland path edges
and large clumps of Arum italicum, with its mottled triangular-shaped foliage
and striking red berries. I avoided Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica),
star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum) and yellow lily leek (Allium moly),
thinking they might be too aggressive for my little woodland.
In the Grass
In my smallish lawn, I relied on early blooming squills (Scilla spp.), reticulated iris,
muscari and crocus strategically planted in drifts and clumps. I planted somewhat
taller Cyclamineus daffodils (‘Jack Snipe’, ‘February Gold’ and ‘Peeping Tom’),
with their reflexed petals, where the lawn met the woodland garden.
A seemingly endless drift of beautiful blue squill
By using early-blooming bulbs and by planting in locations where I could tolerate
delayed spring mowing, I was able to comply with the lawn bulbs’ ripening
requirements. I laid hardware cloth on the ground immediately after planting,
along with a dusting of blood meal to deter squirrels. Most of the smaller bulbs
self-seed, so the resulting distribution over time was quite natural looking.
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Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
Also providing fertile ground for naturalized bulbs are country gardens, roadway
slopes, meadows, pond margins and orchards. Larger daffodils make colorful
transition plantings on slopes bordering more formal terrace plantings. In
summer, daylilies and irises work nicely. Around country ponds, naturalized
daffodils and forget-me-nots (Myosotis scorpioides) make striking transitions
and playful reflections.
Finally, country meadows provide an opportunity to incorporate spectacular
summer bulbs such as the seed-spreading blackberry lily (Belamcanda
chinensis), with its gladiolus-like foliage and orange flowers dotted with black,
Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’, with its flame-red flowers, and the ever-popular blazing
stars (Liatris spp.), with their erect pinkish-violet flowers.
On the Rocks
Smaller bulbs can be naturalized easily in the soil pockets and the seams
between rocks. Species tulips such as T. tarda, T. pulchella and T. urumiensis
make good subjects, along with Chilean woodsorrel (Oxalis adenophylla), with
its pink flowers and striking silver-grey foliage. Diminutive daffodils such as
hoop-petticoat (N. bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’) and fragrant N. jonquilla ‘Baby
Moon’ add cheer, along with the vibrant yellow flowers of Iris danfordiae, white
snowdrops (Galanthus spp.) and botanical crocuses. Again, Ferdinand Otawa
naturalizes some of the smaller but beautiful rain lilies (Zephyranthes sulphurea,
robustus and candida) in rockery locations. Rockery bulbs appreciate welldrained gritty soil and the cool shade of the rocks on hot days.
Species tulips greigii with glory-of-the-snow (chionodoxa)
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Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
Buying and Planting Bulbs
When buying bulbs, ensure they are firm, without blemishes, and not shriveled.
Purchase the largest-sized bulbs possible and plant them well before the onset of
winter weather to minimize storage time and maximize rooting time. Familiarize
yourself with the recommended spacing and depth-of-planting requirements for
the various species, cultivars and hybrids. When naturalizing bulbs, I plant mine
somewhat deeper than I would in formal beds to minimize root competition with
other plants. Be aware, however, that bulbs planted too deep will take time to
adjust and initially may not flower as well as expected. If, on the other hand, the
plantings are too shallow, the bulbs could easily suffer frost heave, especially
in heavier clay soils. Mulch helps even out soil temperature and minimizes
heaving.
Having the right tool is critical when planting large quantities of bulbs. The choice
will vary with soil conditions, other plants, root obstructions and available time.
A hori-hori knife, a cross between a knife and trowel, works well around tree
roots and in rockery crevices. If obstructions aren’t a problem, a sharp transplant
spade or foot-activated bulb planter could be the answer. Lawn grass can be
lifted with a sharp spade and carefully replaced after planting.
Stunning autumn crocus (colchicums) blooms
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Using Bulbs as Nature Intended
Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 7, Issue 2 - April 2012
Fertilizing naturalized bulbs is a balancing act. Too much, especially lawn fertilizers
high in nitrogen, could cause bulbs to bulk up quickly and produce an abundance
of foliage but fewer flowers. If you start with a free-draining soil fortified with
compost and well-rotted manure, you might need only an initial application of
phosphorous and potash-rich fertilizer (slow release 5-10-20) at planting time
and perhaps some bone meal. Lawn maintenance practices normally provide
more than enough fertilizer and water.
Bulb division is a common maintenance task for naturalized daffodils and tulips
that spread from bulb offsets. If yours seem to be waning and coming up blind (no
flowers but lots of new foliage), you may have to lift the parent bulbs after they
have ripened and separate the larger offset bulbs from them. Plant the offsets
where they will receive enough food to thrive and bloom. Smaller offsets can be
left with the parent to fatten up. Seed heads on daffodils and tulips can also be
removed to speed ripening and maximize nutrients going back into the bulbs.
Naturalizing bulbs is not difficult and it provides beautiful spring and summer
rewards.
Text by Frank Kershaw
Photos by Marnie Wright
Frank Kershaw is an award- winning horticulturist with thirty-five years’ experience.
He teaches garden design and horticultural courses at George Brown College in
Toronto, Ontario, and at the Toronto Botanical Garden. Frank is also a presenter
at the Lee Valley Tools Ltd. seminars at the Toronto stores.
Marnie Wright ([email protected]) is a lifelong gardener, writer and
passionate garden photographer. Her Rocksborough Garden, developed over
thirty years, is located in Bracebridge, Ontario.
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