L egend has it that at the beginning of the year 1492, once given the keys of the city of Granada to the Spanish Catholic Kings, the last occupant of the Kingdom of Granada's throne - Moorish King Boabdil also known as "Boabdil the Younger" or "The Hapless King"- started its painful path of exile to the Mediterranean coast, on the Morocco direction. A large royal entourage accompanied him on this direct way to south. When the grieving procession reached the saddle from which the city of La Alhambra can be seen for the last time, Boabdil looked back and then the tears began streaming down his cheeks. The king's mother, Aixa, was contemplating the scene. Instead of comforting her son, the former queen moved closer to him for mercilessly telling off the conquest of Granada by Christian troops. "Cry as a woman for something that you were unable to defend as a man" she said, and from that moment the small depression between summits where King Boabdil wept was renamed as "Puerto del Suspiro del Moro" (Passage of the Moorish's Sigh)... 1 © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] SUAREZ´S POND: THE HIDDEN JEWEL OF SOUTHERN SPAIN Panoramic sight toward the Southern Lagoon of Suarez’s Pond from hide 5 with zoom over the perch commonly used by kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) for scanning its potential preys. egend apart, the truth is that if the King of the Moors had been a keen birder he would most likely not have suffered so much. The place where he was going to for embarking towards the African continent was in that time a large and filled with exciting wildlife wetland. The Guadalfeo River formed then, at its mouth, an impressive delta dotted with marshlands, salt marshes, lagoons and small ponds where sugar cane plantations occupied most of the fertile lowlands around the medieval settlements of Salobreña and Motril. Unfortunately, however, a progressive change of scene has been taking L place in this privileged area over the last five centuries. The crumbling became particularly dramatic during the last third of the XX century, when the aggressive city planning © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] stroke heavily the Mediterranean coastal zone. Vast extensions of waterlogged lands were buried under hundreds of apartment towers, recreational complexes and hotels, most of them built with a complete absence of environmental awareness. Only a small portion of the original wetland has reached us today, the lagoon complex named in Specimen of purple gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio) looking for fresh stalks of bulrush (Typha latifolia) along the Northern Lagoon banks. Being a resident bird at Suarez's Pond, can be observed here from a short distance mainly in the late afternoon. That is why this place is likely the best enclave on the European continent for watching this sort of really odd wading bird looking like a cross between coot and moorhen, which it is related to. 2 ▲ This Nature Reserve is located at the southern edge of the province of Granada, next to the Mediterranean coast and barely 70 km (43 ½ miles) from the city of La Alhambra. For being more accurate, the entrance to the fenced compound of the Nature Reserve has a grid reference of 36º 43' 18.76'' N, 3º 32' 31.2'' W, corresponding to the western part of the city of Motril and near the seaport of the same locality. Motril is the principal town of the Costa Tropical (Tropical Coast), as is called the “comarca” -a Spanish administrative unit smaller than a region and longer than a municipality- defined by the Granada province's coastline. Spanish “Charca de Suárez” (Suarez’s Pond). A real oasis for nature and wildlife located at the Motril lowland whose current high level of conservation has been achieved as the result of many people, public institutions and environmental groups' selfless effort. Thanks especially to the hard and devoted work of the BUXUS ecologist organization, focused heavily on awareness-raising in the administration and among inhabitants of the town of Motril, this privileged enclave has come until our days looking like very similar to its original wild aspect. Suarez’s Pond is currently protected with the designation of the area as “Reserva Natural Concertada” -that is to say a Nature Reserve with a commitment from the Andalusian Governmentsince 2009. The entire fenced enclosure lies within the “Inventario de Humedales de Andalucía” (Andalusian Wetland In- 3 ventory) as of 2007 besides. A visit to this place means to enjoy one of the most important areas for birdwatching on the Iberian Peninsula whose rich and varied birdlife comprises more than 160 different species. Within the 92 species of birds cur- rently considered in threatened status across the length and breadth of the Andalusian region, 51 of them are possible to see on this quite rightly protected zone. Even though its small area (13.8 hectares of land comprising the core of the reserve, plus the recently added area), placed next to a highly humanized environment by Motril Western Beach's residential complexes and hotels, Suarez's Pond protected area constitutes itself an unique and privileged setting for wildlife conservation. The strategic spot of the Suarez's Pond along- Cattle egrets (Bulbulcus ibis) placidly perched on the horse back at the River Guadalfeo mouth. Near there, placed in the fertile Motril lowlands, the Suarez’s Pond remains as the last redoubt of the wild fauna in its purest form, before buildings and housing developments destroyed marshes and pools along the Mediterranean coastal strip. © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] How to reach it ▲ The neighboring airports to the Suarez's Pond area are situated in the cities of Granada, Málaga and Almería respectively. The access by car from Granada is taking the A44 national highway to Motril. If we wanted to arrive to Suarez's Pond from Málaga or Almería directions, travelling on the A7 highway it would be required then. Leaving from Granada then we must travel along the A44 highway for about 60 km (37 ¼ miles) until reaching a large roundabout type junction placed at the end of this highway. On reaching the roundabout we take the third exit to the Puerto de Motril (Motril Harbour) on the GR14 road ▲ signposted " GR14-Motril-Puerto” Coming from the roundabout, we must turn off the old N-323 Continuing along the GR14, in just three and a half road on the right direction once reached the first housing com- kilometres (2 ¼ miles) the path encounters a new round- plex at the start of calle Moral (Moral street). about where we must choose the third exit heading due south. Some 300 metres (¼ mile) away, we arrive to the last junction of our driving route. The GR14 road we are following meets at this point the old N340 road running alongside the Mediterranean coast. From this final junction located at 329 km on the N340 road –pointed as “329 km roundabout” on the attached map- we go straight ahead taking the second exit to the Motril Harbour on the N323 road signposted "El Puerto/N-323". Going on the N323 road- commonly referred to on its final stretch as "carretera de la celulosa" (the cellulose road) - barely 3 km (1 ¾ miles) from the last roundabout ▲ we leave behind a small industrial state before reaching Route by car, from the N-323 road to the entrance gate to the urban area of the town of Motril. Suarez's Pond protected area. Taking the first street right -calle Moral (Moral street)after only a hundred meters we reach the Camino del Pelaillo (Pelaillo's Path) street , only a few dozens of meters away from the beach. On arriving to this street we must turn right. After passing the building of Gran Hotel Elba Motril (ElbaMotril Great Hotel) and the complex built with a white and red façade, we find finally the entrance gate to the ▲ fenced compound of Charca de Suárez (Suarez's Pond). Route to Charca de Suárez (Suarez's Pond) from the N340 road, once we reach the roundabout at 329 Km of this road. © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] 4 ▲ Four Spanish pond turtles (Mauremys leprosa) enjoying the fading sun on the Northern Lagoon shore. indispensable most of the time in order to have good sights-, here we can see shy and elusive water bird species from a short distance, many times even standing out easily in the foreground, enjoying them from the set of hides cleverly placed for it. Beginning with the route description itself, once passed the entrance gate and after walking a few metres we reach the starting point of the circular stroll from which we will discover the striking natural features of this exceptional environment. Keeping on the branch trending north, from the left-hand, the path maintains its way parallel to the Balate de la Culebra irrigation ditch. These kinds of artificial watercourses - locally known as "balates" or "madres"-bring most of the water that feeds this small coastal wetland. In the case of Balate de la Culebra canal, its course limits the western edge of the currently protected area. The Balate del Lagarto irrigation channel runs through Suarez's Pond from north to south, passing halfway between the outer lagoon and the northern lagoon. Although this last "balate" introduces the most significant flow water inside the natural reserve, another remarkable source for supplying - especially over the dry season- is the provision of water coming from Motril-Salobreña unconfined aquifer. ▲ side the Mediterranean coastline, in the vicinity of the African continent, make this area an ideal winter and summer residence for migratory birds besides an excellent nesting site. In addition to this, it must be taken into account that the pond is also an important place for amphibian species breeding. In contrast to other Spanish wildlife sanctuaries for birdwatching such as Doñana National Park or Fuente de Piedra Natural Park -where using powerful telescopes is General view of Suarez's Pond with a rough zoning map showing the vegetation cover. Proposed circular route through the original area of the reserve including the starting point near the main entrance. 5 © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] Be aware of... Before starting with the visit we can park our vehicle in the Camino del Pelaíllo street. Although there is usually enough room for it, should be beared in mind that parking might be hard to find in summertime, especially during the month of August. For the breeding season, from March to May, the nature reserve can be only visited by means of guided tours. This sort of visits last an hour and a half as a rule, staying closed the entrance gate to the fenced enclosure all this time. Tops of bulrush leaves (Typha latifolia) constitute for kingfisher privileged spots where perching on for hunting, diving from there in pursuit of small fishes, tadpoles, molluscs and insects. Despite being considered a very shy species, hides 2 and 5 frequently provide close views of this beautifully coloured bird. Following with the suggested itinerary, in just 150 metres (492 feet) from the entrance gate we arrive at hide 1. The visibility here is rather restricted due to the fast growing of marsh vegetation which surrounds the Outer Lagoon, but it is advisable having a look from this laterally opened hide for a short time. In addition to watching relatively easy to see water birds such as moorhen (Gallinula chloropus), coot (Fullica atra) or mallard (Anas platyrhynchos), the male of white-headed duck (Oxyura leucocephala) might make us enjoy its striking and distinctive © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] look during the breeding season. It is also important to highlight that redknobbed coot (Fulica cristata) is here a reproductive species since 2013. The walk continues going round the Outer Lagoon for reaching some 200 metres (656 feet) later the northwest corner of the fenced piece of ground. At this point there is a small sugar crane (Saccharum officinarum) plantation with an explanatory panel telling the visitor how important this crop type was in a not so distant past on this nearby land to the Guadalfeo River mouth. Originally from New Guinea, cultivation of this plant was introduced in the Iberian Peninsula by Muslims between the 8th and 10th centuries The most recommendable option to check opening times on special dates such as national or local holidays as well as for arranging guided visits of groups is calling, in both cases, to telephone numbers +34 618217508 / +34 682345666. These contact numbers can be consulted on the Motril Town Council website www.motril.es Closely linked to the ancestral technique of irrigation used for sugar cane crops - known generically as "riego a manta" (a sort of gravity-assisted irrigation technique in which water flows from a little higher point to a not much lower level by means of ruts) - has been created a particular ecosystem where is possible to observe Mediter- 6 The slim silhouette of black-winged stilt (Himantopus himantopus) can be enjoyed in particular from hide 2 overlooking the Northern Lagoon. Even though being a resident species at Suarez's Pond, individuals heading south to Spain for wintering represent here a significant increase in the population of such wading birds. ranean tree frog (Hyla meridionalis) and snakes such as horseshoe whip snake (Hemorrhois hippocrepis) or ladder snake (Rhinechis scalaris). The presence of mammals like red fox (Vulpes vulpes), badger (Meles meles) or weasel (Mustela nivalis) and small and secretive passerine birds such as nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos) or bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) contribute to increasing natural wealth of this agricultural landscape designed by man. It is interesting to note, as regards to bluethroat, its local denomination in the Salobreña and Motril areas. Popularly known as "reina mora" (Moorish queen), the origin of such name dates back about five centuries. At that time, year after year and with the cold weather coming, Queen Aixa arrived to the Castle of Salobreña for taking her 7 annually appreciated sun baths. This very beautiful woman - wife of Muley Hazen and mother of Boabdil, the last king of Granada's moors as has already been specified previously- used to stay at the rooms of the said fortress over the winter months. As bluethroat, wintering species in this area, returned to the Guadalfeo lowland every year virtually coinciding in time with the Aixa's visit, not difficult to imagine people linking the two circumstances. First sightings of bluethroat announced imminent arrival of the Queen to these lands. The beauty of adult males specially, with a sleek and refined white ruff separating the bright and deep blue tones from the intense orange strip embellishing its breast - this white patch is peculiar to the subspecies Luscinia svecica cyaneculaaided clearly to associate this sort of bird with royalty. So bluethroat was renamed " Moorish queen" by most rural people, transmitting orally such denomination from generation to generation until today. Leaving behind the sugar cane plantation, the Balate de la Culebra ditch is crossed in our route. It is very likely that we can spot, moving on its very slow water current, Spanish pond turtle (Mauremys leprosa) and the two more aquatic snake species -the Purple heron (Ardea purpurea) overflying Suarez’s Pond area, where is relatively frequent be seen hunting small fishes, amphibians and invertebrates from the Inner Lagoon shore. Although it may be an observable bird in summertime, it is much easier to be watched here during the two seasonal movements of the species. The first one from Africa to Spain for breeding over March-April, and the second migratory movement for returning to its wintering grounds on the African continent from approximately the second half of August to the first week of September. © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] ▲ term "Natrix" from its Latin denomination means "swimmer"- viperine water snake (Natrix maura) and grass snake (Natrix natrix). This latter, as well as being an increasingly difficult to see snake kind, sometimes is called “ringed snake” too. The presence of both species Mediterranean tree frog (Hyla meridionalis) and grass snake (Natrix natrix) is an excellent bio-indicator for the aquatic ecosystem health. With respect to underwater vegetal community that colonizes the aquatic world of irrigation ditches, small lagoons and ponds, here is a species of stonewort as the Chara vulgaris longibracteata besides to other aquatic plants like fennel pondweed (Potamogeton pectinatus) and hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), commonly re- Another interesting bird that may be spotted inside the nature reserve is night heron (Nycticorax nycticorax). With predominantly nocturnal habits, this sort of heron moves especially along the Northern Lagoon shoreline for feeding from twilight till daybreak. Regarded here as a resident species, it increases considerably its number with the winter arrival and especially over migratory periods. ferred to "coontail" in the United Kingdom. This latter species - also known at this southern spot on the Iberian Peninsula as "cama de ranas" (frogs' bed) or "milhojas de agua" (millefeuille of water) - is an aquatic macrophyte that if occurs in adequate proportions, no more than 30 per cent extending over the water surface, produces beneficial effects such as better water oxygenation. Because of it, this kind of plant is profusely recommended as a natural alternative for combating exotic and invasive species. The main problem arises when hornwort develops in highly phosphate © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] and nitrate polluted waters like those ones contaminated by the widely used in agriculture fertilizers. Common "coontail" grows then in an extraordinary and disproportionately high way, becoming an invasive plant enabled for drying large surfaces of water. Foremost among aquatic plants living here stands out one threatened species scientifically known as “Zannichelia contorta”, being designed as “vulnerable” on the Libro Rojo de la Flora Vascular Española (Red Paper on Spanish Vascular Flora) and getting at this wetland the only confirmed spotting of the species along the coastline of Granada. The route follows now passing next to a field area whose soil moisture is evidenced by the great proliferation of sharp or spiny rush (Juncus acutus). As we move away from the Balate del Lagarto canal, meadows covered with gramineous and leguminous plants begin to dominate the landscape. Barely 230 metres (755 feet) from the sugar cranes we reach the hide 2, the biggest and most important bird observatory of the whole nature reserve. Facing south and overlooking the Northern Lagoon, we will enjoy at this 8 Indentified as critically endangered species in the “Libro Rojo de los Vertebrados Amenazados de Andalucía” (Red Paper on Andalusian Threatened Vertebrates), squacco heron (Ardeola ralloides) was really on the verge of extinction in Andalucia some years ago. Towards the end of the year 1991, only remained 20 couples across the entire Andalusian territory. Fortunately, environmental actions such as this of Suarez´s Pond have successfully achieved the progressively increasing population of this kind of smallish and squat-bodied heron. Well known to birders for being a wading bird easily overlooked on the ground when its buff plumage gets to bend into the background, this protected area offers visitors the opportunity of viewing individuals from a short distance as birds are perched on branches or hunting next to the shores. Squacco heron is here a summer visitor species so the appropiate period for enjoying with its observation is from June to October. Photo courtesy of Manuel Mañani point of the route the most impressive and amazing sights of the wildlife inhabiting Suarez's Pond. Practically the whole bird species residing or visiting to the protected area may be watched from this strategic viewpoint. Passerines are widely represented by more than 60 different species. Outstands among them Savi’s warbler (Locustella luscinoides), on being Suarez's Pond its unique breeding area around the province of Granada. Other protected species including in the Libro Rojo de Vertebrados Amenzados de Andalucía (Red Paper on Andalusian Threatened Vertebrates), are redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus), aquatic warbler (Acrocephalus paludicola), 9 moustached warbler (Acrocephalus melanopogon) and eastern olivaceous warbler (Iduna pallida). Water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), common chif- fchaff (Phylloscopus collybita), white wagtail (Motacilla alba), yellow wagtail (Motacilla flava), european reed warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus), fan-tailed warbler (Cisticola juncidis), black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), european stonechat (Saxicola rubicola), nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos), Great egret (Ardea Alba) progressing alongside the Northern Lagoon shore. Much more difficult to see than little egret (Egretta garzetta), this sort of egret can be easily distinguished by its yellowish tarsus. © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] Cetti’s warbler (Cettia cetti) and bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) are more tangible examples of the rich varied birdlife whose observation we can enjoy at Suarez’s Pond. Among those more threatened species of wading birds here found, stand out squacco heron (Ardeola ralloides), purple heron (Ardea purpurea), night-heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) and little bittern (Ixobrychus minutes). It is worth noting too the chance to observe specimens of black-winged stilt (Himantopus himantopus), avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta), little bittern (Ixobrichus minutus), common sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos), little ringed plover (Charadrius dubius), redshank (Tringa totanus), grey heron (Ardea cinerea), cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis), little egret (Egretta garzetta), spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) and greater flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus). As regards the rest of water birds like Anatidae species or waterfowls, it is possible to see emblematic birds such as the aforementioned white-headed duck (Oxyura leucocephala) or red-crested pochard (Netta rufina) for example. Also occur shoveler (Anas clypeata), gadwall (Anas strepera) , mallard (Anas platyrhynchos), wigeon (Anas penelope), teal (Anas crecca), ferruginous duck (Aythya nyroca) and marbled duck ▲ Suarez´s Pond also offers the opportunity to watch one of the most threatened with extinction bird species in the world, the crested or red-knobbed coot (Fulica cristata). Looking like the much more abundant Eurasian coot (Fulica atra) but with two “red knobs” over its forehead which allow it to differentiate from that other kind of coot, crested coot belongs on the list of 37 endangered Spanish vertebrates that includes other legally protected species such as Iberian lynx or Spanish Imperial eagle. Within the framework of an International of the International Action Plan initiated in the early 90’s for to save it from the disappearance, around three hundreds of coots were reintroduced into the wild as result of the captive breeding programme carried out since then. Four couples of birds coming from the said action plan were released in Suarez’s Pond over the spring of 2013. A few months later, at the end of August , it could be noted that red-knobbed coot established itself as reproductive species inside the protected area. Three marvellous little chicks were spotted swimming behind their mother alongside the southern edge of the main lagoon. The specimen photographed by Manuel Mañani -biologist of the Nature Reserve- corresponds to one of these new residents of Suarez's Pond. (Marmaronetta angustirostris). The waterfowl list with the most remarkable species might be completed with sightings of little grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis), cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) and gull species like yellow-legged gull (Larus michahellis) or blackheaded gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus). Besides that, special mention must be made of the fact this small wetland © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected] area affords close up looks at purple gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio), letting us follow it from hides mainly at dusk. This really odd looking bird -almost prehistoric in relation to its appearance- leaves then the protection given by the surrounding vegetation for feeding on the shallower waters of the different pools located at Suarez's Pond. While it is true that this species becomes abundant in other Spanish protected areas as occurs at Doñana National Park or La Albufera de Valencia Natural Park, their broad extent increases significantly the complication of sighting purple gallinule from only a few metres unlike what happens at Nature Reserve of Suarez's Pond. Going on with the rich varied birdlife description, most observable diurnal raptors in this area are marsh harrier (Circus aeuruginosus) and common kestrel (Falco tinnunculus). 10 On light starting to fall little owl (Athene noctua) and short-eared owl (Asio flammeus) leave their hidden perches used over daytime, overflying the pond and surrounding croplands searching for possible preys as mice or moles. If we focus now on scrutinizing the species of flora existing here, in the shallower zones around pools grow up bulrush (Typha latifolia), yellow iris (Iris pseudacorus) and branched bur-reed (Sparganium erectum). Along the edges and directly affected by possible variations in the water level, besides the plants which have just been mentioned, reed (Phragmites communis), ravenna grass (Erianthus ravennae), giant or wild cane (Arundo donax) and gipsywort (Lycopus europaeus) are able to expand successfully too. Cladium mariscus, the Spanish "masiega", also get developing inside a small area close to the southern shore of the Northern Lagoon. The presence of tree species within the protected area comes primarily from specimens of purple willow (Salix purpurea), grey willow (Salix atrocinerea) and Salix sepulcralis, more than 4-metre-high (13 ft) in many cases, occupying the nearest stretch to the water surface. Slightly further away from the waterlogged areas, standing out with heights in many cases above 4 meters too, must 11 be noted the occurrence here of tree specimens such as black poplar (Populus nigra) besides castor oil plant (Ricinus communis) and white cedar (Melia azederach). African tamarix (Tamarix africana) manages to grow on the more sandy and dry soils that the natural reserve includes. As a curiosity, the highest tree of the entire protected area is a eucalyptus tree (Eucalyptus camaldulensis) spotted about midway between the Outer and the Northern Lagoons, on the right stream bank of Balate del Lagarto watercourse. From among the climbing plants it is important to mention red raspberry and blackberry bush as belonging to the genus Rubus and mallow bindweed (Convolvulus althaeoides), without forgetting that creeping species generically known in Spanish as "matacán" (Cynanchum acutum). The list of living creatures here observable ends with the review of the insect world, within which it is worth highlighting the existence of red-veined darter(Sympetrum fonscolombii), ruddy darter (Sympetrum sanguineum), European rhinoceros beetle (Oryctes nasicornis) and, finally, six-spot burnet (Zygaena filipendulae). In respect of the route description we were walking on as far as reaching hide 2, even though being this observatory the most advantageous place for birdwartching as it has been pointed previously, it is very advisable to complete the total circular itinerary. We will visit then to hides 3 and 4 on both sides of the Inner Lagoon -also referred to as "Lagoon of the Clover" because of its shape in plan. For arriving at the first one we must cover about 250 metres (820 feet) from hide 2. Distance between hides 3 and 4 is a little over 600 metres (1969 feet) roughly. From the small observatory 4 to hide 5 -this latter the closest to the exit or the entrance gate, is the same door, to the fenced compound- there are barely 300 metres (984 feet). Being a tiny, secretive type of heron normally difficult to see, little bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) may be occasionally spotted as it is perched on reed stems that constitute the dense wetland cover of the Northern Lagoon shoreline. © David Ríos Aguilar · [email protected]
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