Shear Brilliance Exhibition Catalogue

wo o l . wa r m T H
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S U S T A I NA B L E
incredible. pure
s h e a r . w hite
c o o l . n atu r a l
brilliancE
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PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES
2012
Celebrating the fibre of the past; the fibre of the future
Wool. It’s something very familiar to all
New Zealanders; so familiar that today, it
has all but been forgotten.
Since the early 1800s when sheep were
introduced in viable numbers to a peak of 70.3
million in the early 1980s, the sheep farming
industry has been inherently intertwined with
the growth and development of New Zealand
as a nation.
It is a relationship lost on current generations.
Increasingly over the last few decades, oildependent synthetic fibres have predominated.
The irony is that many of the attributes in
which laboratories invest heavily to achieve in
synthetic fibres, already occur naturally in wool.
Wool is one of the most effective natural
forms of all-weather protection. It has naturally
high UV resistance, much higher than most
synthetics and cotton. With a high water and
nitrogen content, wool is also naturally flame
retardant. Then there is it’s unique structure,
which allows wool to absorb and release
moisture and, in turn, to transfer or maintain
heat. Its distinctive crimp means it won’t crush
or flatten so looks better for longer whether
used in fashion or living environments.
Sustainable, renewable, all-natural wool – a
fibre that has been very much the backbone of
our past – truly is the fibre of tomorrow. And
that heralds an exciting future. The Campaign
for Wool is here to say that wool is back –
and it’s better than ever. New Zealand is at
the forefront of technological advancement
that is capitalising on and extending its unique
properties. Other advancements here in
New Zealand have increased wool’s application
as an architectural and interior textile – many
fine examples of which you can see in this
exhibition.
Instigated by HRH The Prince of Wales, The
Campaign for Wool is a five-year initiative
bringing together farming and textile industries
with wool organisations across the world. It is
the most significant promotion of wool in our
times. For New Zealand, it is an unequalled
opportunity to ‘sit on the giant’s shoulder’; to
benefit from the global push to get people
once again talking about the wonderful
properties of wool. And that’s exciting, because
what’s good for wool is good for New Zealand.
Helping us do this are the following esteemed
New Zealanders, our Campaign for Wool
Ambassadors. We’d like to acknowledge the
enthusiastic support of:
•Stephen McDougall, Studio Pacific
Architecture.
• Elisabeth Findlay, Zambesi.
•Paul Avery, world titled shearer.
• The Queen of Wool, Mary-Annette Hay
(Honorary Wool Ambassador).
•We recognise and thank the late Lloyd
Morrison, whose voice and actions
supported wool at every opportunity that
presented itself during The Campaign’s
crucial first year in New Zealand. And
we carry his challenge forward to his
equivalents to choose wool when
specifying new Head Office fit outs. A true
Ambassador who walked the talk.
In gathering here this afternoon, we are
celebrating all that wool has delivered to
New Zealand throughout its history and all
that it will bring to this nation in the dynamic
and exciting years ahead. Today we celebrate
wool in all its Shear Brilliance.
exhibition guide
1. Wool - Best Choice for Fire Safety
Peter Wilding, New Zealand Fire Service
New Zealand’s finest join forces in the
battle for fire safety: the pick of firefighters
and the fire resistant qualities of wool.
2. Shearing
John Kirkpatrick and Sam Welch
Two of the world’s best, balance the
tension of art and efficiency in the
challenge that is shearing.
3. Wool Handling
Ronnie Goss and Rose Puha
A performance of deftness and grace:
through communication and world-class
skill, wool handling is lifted to an art form.
4. The Peg Necklace
The Merino Company / Levana Textiles
100% Enciel Merino Wool
With the gorgeous drape of a necklace,
adorned with the classic wooden peg and
covered in vibrant rich colours that can
only be achieved when dyed onto the
whitest white Merino, the Peg Necklace
represents iconic elegance for the active
person who wants a fabric that achieves
great colour with improved colour fastness
to light and laundering.
This game changer - offers consumers a
‘true’ white and designers the full spectrum
of colours while maintaining the natural
performance elements of merino wool.
www.encielmerino.com
5. Extreme Texture
Collection of 16 pure New Zealand wool,
textured rugs
Nick Radford Rugs
100 % felted wool yarn
The beautiful and durable qualities of felted
New Zealand wool yarns and how they
are used by Nick Radford Rugs to push
textural boundaries is showcased in this
collection of 16 rugs.
www.nickradford-rugs.com
6. Red Square
Collection of 52 carpet tiles
Ontera Modular Carpets, Cavalier
Corporation
100% wool
Colour and pattern are given full reign
as the versatility and style of the carpet
square meets the benefits of wool.
Cavalier’s unique Millitron technology
allows specification of colour, pattern and
configuration of wool tiles to match any
environment, brand or experience.
www.ontera.com.au
7. Simply Exquisite
Blankets, throws, cushion, wool inners
Exquisite Blankets
100% New Zealand wool A diverse range of woollen blankets
and throws celebrate the natural talent
that only wool offers: low fire risk, super
‘sorber’ (regulates body temperature by
drawing moisture away), water-repellent
hypoallergenic and biodegradable.
www.exquisiteblankets.co.nz
exhibition guide
exhibition guide
8. Breeze
Hand-woven scarves of many colours
Christine Keller (designer); Handweberei
im Rosenwinkel (hand weaver)
90% Merino wool; 10% cotton
Wool takes its place as ‘fine art’ in this
award-winning, international bestselling
scarf which is on show from the new
hand-weaving studio’s collection of fine,
up-market scarves and baby blankets.
www.christinekeller.net
11. A Natural Wrap
The traditional wool blanket 100% traceable
to the family farm.
Shear Warmth
100% New Zealand wool
Warmth and comfort the way nature
intended. Shear Warmth woollen blankets
combine hoggets’ wool for strength and
lambs wool for softness while colours are
left natural or shaded using metal-free dyes.
www.shearwarmth.co.nz
9. Colourful Personality
Hat, bag and wrap
Jill Davis and Laurie Badrick of Agnes Foss
Merino wool, silk and lace
Merino’s ability to take on vibrant hues, is
fully explored as the wool is artfully mixed
with silk and lace to create hats, wraps and
bags with personality.
www.agnesfoss.co.nz
12. Tiki Salvage 2002**
Art on Wool
John McDougall (artist); AUT University
Textile and Design Lab; artwork commissioned by Studio of
Pacific Architecture
100% wool
High tech melds with high art: Maori tiki
imagery digitally printed on New Zealanddeveloped light-weight, machine-washable,
woven merino wool ‘Easy Care Fabric’,
showcases the high definition and intensity
of colour achievable with modern wool
fabric.
**Tiki, the first person, often
interchangeable with Tane in mythology,
is a vehicle for the gods. Tiki have ‘spirit’
as everything has wairua; and are magical
objects which are the dwelling places of
the ancestors. These Tiki are a collage of
scrap materials salvaged from the Makara
coast, representing a blending of cultures
and resurrection. They tell stories which
express love, hope, humour and goodwill.
www.tdl.aut.ac.nz and www.studiopacific.co.nz
10. A Rare Indulgence
Luxury interior fabrics, cushions and throws
The Escorial Company Ltd
Wool + wool and silk
Rarer than cashmere and only grown
in Australasia, Escorial® sheep are the
smallest of fine wool sheep. The difference
- each fibre is shaped like a corkscrew,
meaning it fills a lot of space and the fibre
is gorgeously soft. The shape gives the fibre
an elasticity that builds its crease resistance
and bounce-back - an attribute appreciated
in apparel and interiors alike.
www.escorialwool.com
13. Stack of Inspiration
50 black books illustrating the future of wool
IWTO
Twelve internationally leading architects
celebrate the use of wool in domestic and
commercial buildings and interior designs.
The Wool in Architecture and Interior
Design book captures wool’s versatility
and natural benefits - health and safety, fire
resistance, and sustainability - as well as the
creative and practical applications from the
functional to the luxurious.
14. The Internationally Awarded Sock
for Medical Design Excellence
Andy Wynne, The Merino Company;
Blythe Rees-Jones, Locus Research
Wool goes high tech in this award-winning
medical innovation - Encircle Compression
Therapy (ECT). Merino’s unique properties
have been tapped to create an innovative,
patented new medical device clinically
proven to help in safely preventing and
treating Chronic Venous Insufficiencies.
www.locusresearch.com and
www.encircle.co.nz
15. Whiter than White
Levana Textiles
100% Enciel Merino White wool
Never before has white wool been
this white. In fact, never before has CIE
whiteness levels of 161 been achieved in
merino wool. Enciel merino has achieved
bright clean whites through a unique
dyeing technique. With wool this white an
opportunity for wool in high performance
sports wear is now possible.
www.encielmerino.com
16. Cloak Chair
The Formary
WoJo® – 70% wool; 30% recycled jute
Wool is the catalyst in the transformation
of industrial and agricultural waste fibres
into revolutionary new fabrics. Kinder to
the environment, these high-performing,
resource-efficient fabrics place wool firmly
in the rapidly expanding sustainable market.
www.theformary.com
17. Traces
Wool felt bowl
Dr Jessica Payne, Massey University
8mm industrial felt, coated with metallic foil
and laser cut
A wolf in sheep’s clothing: the absorbent
surface of industrial felt has been coated,
then laser-cut and areas peeled away to
contrast the simple purity of wool fibre
with the artificial metallic surface. The
result - the appearance of a heavy, threedimensional bowl.
www.massey.ac.nz
18. Structural Form
Five pieces of seamless knitwear
Mandy Smith
100% wool This seamless architectural knitwear
range explores three-dimensional shape
possibilities the miracle of wool allows,
redefining the use of wool in the process.
exhibition guide
19. Homeland
Wool Felt Tiles
Verena Ziegler
100% NZ wool from Hildegund Blank’s
private sheep farm, Albany
All the benefits of natural New Zealand
wool – non-allergenic, fire-resistant,
air purification, moisture control – are
harnessed in this sustainable, cost-effective
modular felt tile system. Designed to be
put onto existing walls and ceilings without
building revision, the wool is hand-felted,
laser-cut and hand-printed.
www.verenaziegler.com
20. Wool in a Different Light
Lampshades
Pow Kusolchan and AUT Textile and
Design Lab (digital printing)
Merino wool
A different take on New Zealand land and
seascapes. These customised lampshades
feature digital prints on naturally flameretardant merino wool fabric.
www.tdl.aut.ac.nz
21. Dags and Fibre Makes Grass Grow
Natural nutrient-rich matting embedded with
seeds
Woolgro Limited
Unscoured crushed dag wool; jute fibre
Returning wool to where it came from,
Woolgro offer an eco-friendly natural
alternative to instant lawn. The seed mats
combine dag wool and recycled jute with
seeds bound in the fibre to create a selffertilising, moisture-retaining mat which
promotes natural sustainable plant growth.
www.woolgro.co.nz
exhibition guide
22. Flashbac
Recycled wool carpet backing
Cavalier Bremworth
100% recycled wool
Innovation and eco-sensitivity combine in
this new carpet backing product. In a worldfirst development, Flashbac carpet backing
is made using 100% recycled wool carpet
in its entirety. Consumers can purchase the
product knowing they are contributing to
1200 tonnes less landfill waste a year.
www.cavbrem.co.nz
25. New Zealand Coast to Coast
Artwork
Roger Hodgkinson
Merino; crossbred wool fibre
New Zealand merino’s affinity with
colour features in artworks from the
New Zealand ‘Coast to Coast’ collection,
for which the artist, Roger Hodgkinson,
has used a unique method to create
expressionist images of the New Zealand
landscape.
www.artinfibre.com
23. Colours of the High Country
Merino wool balls
Kristy Johnstone
Merino wool coloured with natural dyes
Every coloured ball of wool tells its own
story through its unique hue drawn from the
plants gathered from New Zealand sheep
stations, inherently connecting the wool back
to its place of origin in the high country.
[email protected]
26. Fellow of Feathers
Textile collection
Jyoti Kalyanji
Wool; cotton; metallic fibres
Borrowed from the feathered coats of
New Zealand’s precious birdlife, earthen
hues and glossy sheens are knitted into
soft, warming layers that connect us to
nature in a unique and strongly
New Zealand textile collection.
24. Woven Nature
Highback sofa
Hemptech NZ Ltd; IQ Commercial
Molesworth fabric featuring New Zealand
wool woven with hemp
The natural acoustic properties of woolhemp fabric, plus its comfort, resilience
and flame-retardant qualities, made it the
ideal partner for this Exchange Highback
sofa, which is designed to encourage
collaboration in cognitive workspaces by
making it inviting and easy to use while
simultaneously mitigating noise. www.hemptech.co.nz and
www.iqcommercial.co.nz
27. Wool for Interiors
Collection of woven wool fabrics
Inter-weave Ltd
Wool
Wool’s authentic and animalistic character
together with its comfort, sustainable story
and contemporary innovation are used to
create luxurious, honest, design-led fabrics
which beautifully fulfill their purpose,
whether upholstery, drape or wall covering.
www.inter-weave.co.nz
28. Kotuku
Lighting product
Kate Ramsay
Pilcher Textile + Design Lab
Merino wool and acrylic
This creative exploration of the
tension between art, craft, technology
and design, showcases the best New
Zealand materials, innovation and design.
Constructed through seamless knitting
technology, laser-cut acrylic ribs formed the
inserted ‘shells’.
www.kateramsay.com
29. Foundation Sofa and Felix Chair
Wool-covered sofa
Simon James Design
Sofa and chair of solid construction and
clean lines covered with wool-blend fabric
Unique and innovative in design and
function, this sofa system, and its family
of parts, as well as the chairnis covered
in wool-blend fabric to complement its
natural form and exploit wool’s attributes
of comfort, durability and style.
www.simonjamesdesign.com
30. Stalactites
Wool floor feature
Kirsty Templeton
100% untreated wool fleece
The ease of manipulation and the
durability of wool are showcased in this
inviting tactile experience inspired by the
stalactite and stalagmite formations of the
Waitomo district in central North Island.
exhibition guide
31. Wool has You Covered
Collection of wool textiles
Textilia at Work-Instyle
Heavy duty commercial/residential wool
upholstery fabric
A range of gorgeous wool interior textile
fabrics featuring innovative, durable,
ecologically kind upholstery fabrics made
from New Zealand wool yarn, thanks to
Textilia.
www.textilia.co.nz
32. Geo Sea
Tufted rug
Kirsty Black Studio
2500 tex felted wool yarn
The beauty, purity and durability of New
Zealand wool make these stylish made-toorder rugs featuring striking abstract designs
almost too good to walk on.
www.kirstyblackstudio.com
33. Heirlooms
Collection of cushions
Ruth Mitchener, Heirloom Design
Pure NZ wool
Hand-made with pure wool, Heirloom
Design explores and recaptures
recollections from the past, reinventing
them with a modern twist to give them
purpose, beauty and the timeless quality of
an heirloom.
www.designbyruth.co.nz
exhibition guide
34. Indulgence in Wool
Collection of wool rugs:
a. Diverting Disturbing – by Bing Dawe
b. Archimedes Garden – by Chiara Corbelletto
c. Out of Black Water – by Bing Dawe
Dilana Workshop
Hand-tufted wool
For 30 years the Dilana Workshop
collective has accumulated specialised
knowledge and experience with use of
hand-tufted wool as a creative medium
and has been the catalyst for fine artists,
designers and architects to collaborate in
the design and production of textile floor
coverings.
35. Coat of Arms
Tribute rug
NZWSI
Hand-tufted wool
Cleanliness, purity, luxury, longevity and
style – the attributes for which New
Zealand wool is known is embodied in this
rug commissioned by New Zealand Wool
Services International to acknowledge
the work of HRH The Prince of Wales on
behalf of the global wool industry. An ecofriendly patented whitening and scouring
process developed by the Wool Research
Organisation of New Zealand was used to
remove all residue and enhance the purity
of colour.
www.woolserv.co.nz
36. Three-dimensional Sleeping Surface
Bedding with wool filling
Joma Wool and Glenoit Fabrics
100% wool
A breakthrough in sleep comfort, the
natural resilience of wool has been
enhanced by applying additional crimp,
so each individual hair functions like a
miniature spring in this innovative new
sleeping surface. Combined with Glenoit’s
Protex cotton-blend yarn fabric, Joma
Wool provides an air cushion that assists
temperature and water vapour diffusion,
keeping the body within its natural
comfort zone.
www.joma.co.nz
www.glenoitfabrics.com
37. A Good Night’s Sleep
Wool mattress
Dreamwool Ltd
100% wool
Wool exhibits its natural advantage over
synthetics in the endeavor to get a good
night’s sleep. Where wool is cool, synthetic
is hot. Where wool refreshes, synthetic
tires. Dreamwool beds are crafted with
handmade wool mattresses, featuring
100% pure Southdown wool in the zip-off
quilt and mattress case, combined with
natural rubber latex and pocket springs.
www.dreamwool.com
38. Placist 2010
Artwork
Laura Marsh
Knitted possum-merino wool; steel rod
Wool is the medium of choice for this
South Island artist in proudly evincing her
relationship to the post-colonial landscape
of Aotearoa New Zealand.
lauramarshartist.blogspot.com
39. Wool - Unrivalled for Fire Safety
Wool Industry Research Ltd (WIRL)
Demonstration
The unrivalled protection wool products
offer against heat and flames, whether
apparel, carpet, bedding or insulation is
demonstrated live by WIRL, the body
dedicated to the advancement of wool
through New Zealand wool industrybased research and development.
WIRL funds both ‘industry good’ and
confidential ‘company specific’ research and
development designed to create new value
for businesses using New Zealand wool.
www.woolresearch.com
40. A Loft above the Rest
FibreTech
100% Wool knops
At the heart of FibreTech New Zealand’s
business is the breakthrough and unique
insulation, bedware and furniture fill system
comprised of small, soft clusters of fibre
called knops, which create more loft and
resilience than a standard fill system. www.fibretechnz.com
exhibition guide
41. Wool Textiles to the World
Collection of textiles
Maxwell Rodgers
New Zealand wool
That wool is the ultimate sustainable
product has secured its place in the
Maxwell Rodgers range of textiles. Though
it’s not just the planet friendly aspect that
ensures its inclusion in the latest releases.
The hardwearing high performance nature
of the fibre sees the popularity of wool
fabrics in high traffic areas such as cruise
liners and airports around the globe.
www.maxwellrodgers.com
42. Carpet Sofa
Carpet formed into a sofa
Cavalier Bremworth
Curlicue felted wool carpet
The line and form of the couch and the
challenge to look outside the square, sees
carpet taken off the floor while retaining
the very thing that makes wool carpet
gorgeous - the wish to sit on it, lie on it,
relax on it. Made from a unique felted yarn,
‘Curlicue’, the carpet is exceptionally durable
with a smooth, strong structure that delivers
unsurpassed depth, responsiveness and lustre.
www.cavbrem.co.nz
the carpet bag
44. Farm to Floor
Carpet
Murray Lynch, Originz Carpets
Crossbred wool
Every single wool fibre in an Originz carpet
is sourced from a ‘cartel of quality’ group
of Northland Woolgrowers. A 100% New
Zealand product, each carpet comes with
its own provenance of origin certificate
that includes the name of the farm and
woolgrower who supplied the wool. This
means each carpet is an ‘original’ - and like
any piece of art, the buyer knows exactly
who created it.
www.originzcarpets.com
45. Trade Cushions and Whakapapa
Blankets
43. Surf’s Up
Surfboard cover
Michael Grobelny, AUT; AUT Textile and
Design Lab Seamless knitted merino wool A truly kiwi product. A digitally printed knitted
wool surfboard cover is not only an innovative
solution to product packaging and protection,
but also uses a sustainable natural material.
46. Wool KETE
Carpet Bag
Zambesi
100% New Zealand wool
The traditional Maori Kete woven from the
leaves of the New Zealand Flax influenced
us to create our version of the Carpet Bag
in wool. The interpretation of the Carpet
Bag is based on a traditional design that has
been part of the Zambesi collection since
1979. We selected a Wool textile furnishing
fabric as we appreciate the unique
characteristics that wool offers and it suited
our aesthetic. Special thank you to Textilia At
Work for supplying the cloth.
www.zambesi.co.nz
Rona Ngahuia Osborne, Native Agent
Wool; hemp; silk; cotton
Inspired by the meeting of Maori and
Pakeha in New Zealand’s colonial past,
recycled woollen blankets are mixed with
new wool to form a removable cushion
inner. Hemp-backed wool covers are
embroidered and hand-appliqued using
silk, cotton and wool thread, layering shape,
colour and iconography and creating
heirlooms for the future.
www.nativeagent.co.nz
47. What lies beneath
Carpet Bag
Donna Tulloch, Mild-Red
Screen printed 100% NZ felted merino wool,
wool yarn and NZ leather
Taking a hard look at the construction of
hand-knotted carpet and the reverse side
of carpet. Using strong strands of wool yarn
that ensure maximum durability, the bag
transforms from a tote to handbag with
secret pockets to keep your hands warm.
Wool – our protector.
www.mild-red.com
48. Turq bag
Carpet Bag
Robyn Mathieson
Wool tapestry; leather
This large wool tapestry and leather bag is
hardy and enduring. The tight-woven wool
gives the bag strength and longevity other
fibres lack.
www.robynmathieson.co.nz
49. The Delight Bag
Carpet Bag
Andrea Moore
Wool; leather
Inspired by a patchwork blanket, the
designer enjoys the adrenaline rush of
clashing colours.
www.andreamoore.co.nz
50. Voyage bag
Carpet Bag
Sabatini
Wool knitted fabric; leather; silk lining; metal
components
The carpet bag has been given a
contemporary twist that demonstrates
distinctive colour combinations and
elaborate knit design. Our handcrafted
handbag pays homage to high-quality wool
fabric and genuine leather components,
to ensure a durable product for ultimate
sustainable fashion.
www.sabatini.co.nz
51. ‘Bespoke Undulation’
Carpet Bag
Liz Mitchell
Inspired by the beauty of the Merino
Golden Fleece. The textures and beautiful
undulations of the natural fleece with its
rich natural palette.
We have used our up-cycled off cuts from
winter production of Merino wool jersey
and felted wool, creating a sustainable
heirloom.
www.lizmitchell.co.nz
THANK YOU
In planning Shear Brilliance 2012, our objective
was to create an exhibition that both honoured
the tradition of wool in this country and also
captured the excitement of its dynamic future.
We wanted an exhibition that showcased both
the raw energy of the natural product and the
sophistication of its use in today’s world. We
could only achieve these goals with the gracious
participation of the many wonderful exhibits we
have been able to include.
There have been so many generous
contributors to making this event happen
and we thank you for the time and effort you
invested in your involvement. We couldn’t
have done it without you. We hope that all
our contributors enjoyed being a part of Shear
Brilliance and can take pride in celebrating the
wonders of wool and its renaissance in the
consciousness of this country.
PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES