URI Master Gardener Quick Tips
Last Updated 08.23.2016
These resources are intended for URI Master Gardener volunteers who
staff our informational kiosks. They were developed from the FAQ’s we
receive through kiosk and hotline. A hard copy will be provided in each
kit. Peruse the information provided and click on the hyperlink for a full
factsheet.
URI Master Gardeners serve as conduits to the knowledge base of
Cooperative Extension.
Please provide clients with a research-based resource and/or answer to
question!
1
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Woodchuck
- In RI, it is illegal to trap and move them.
- They are herbivores and eat a wide range
of vegetation.
- They are most active in the early morning
and late afternoon. They look for a shady
hideout for the day and a den at night.
- Repellents are your best means of control.
Predator scents like coyote or fox makes
them think a predator is near. The real
thing is best! Let your dog out to mark his
territory in your yard. Or sprinkle dried
blood (from the garden center) around the
garden or plants being attacked. It smells
like a predator and may scare him off.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI MG
For more info check this factsheet:
http://www.dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/
fishwild/pdf/woodchuc.pdf
2
Master Gardener Quick Tip
White-tailed Deer
• Native herbivore that can
damage plantings.
• They are in the city as well as
the country
• Barriers and repellants work
best
• Some plants are never
touched and others are
regular fare.
• They are carriers of deer
ticks.
For more info check this factsheet:
http://www.dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/fish
wild/pdf/deer.pdf
3
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Trash
•
•
•
•
•
Material left behind in
gardens is unsightly.
Clean the garden beds in
early spring after a long
stormy winter.
Regularly check roadside
hedges or fence lines.
Material generally does not
breakdown quickly.
Material could be
inadvertently ingested by
wildlife and kill them.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
4
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Efficient Watering in Drought
* Consider drip irrigation or soaker
hoses.
* Water deeply once or twice a week
rather than lightly every day.
* MULCH,MULCH,MULCH. It helps to
hold the moisture in the soil longer.
* Water newly planted trees, shrubs
and vegetable gardens first.
* Established lawns are in summer
dormancy. Leave them alone.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information visit:
http://extension.psu.edu/prepare/emergency
ready/drought/landscape/droughtland
5
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Dog Vomit Slime Mold
* Weird and ugly organism that is common in
bulk wood mulch.
* Starts out bright yellow like scrambled
eggs, then turns tan in a day or two.
* Will show up when the mulch is hot and
wet/humid.
* Is a naturally occurring decay organism of
fresh wood mulch.
* Does not kill plants but may even climb the
stem or move into the lawn.
* Ignore it, or scoop and dispose. No need
for chemicals!!
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this factsheet:
https://uaex.edu/publications/PDF/FSA-7573.pdf
6
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Stinkhorn
•
Another weird decay fungus
that occurs in raw wood mulch.
•
Can be smelly when up close.
Attracts flies.
•
Pops out later in the summer in
the wet, hot weather.
•
Begins to emerge looking like an
egg.
•
Ignore it, or scoop and dispose.
No need for chemicals!!
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this factsheet:
https://uaex.edu/publications/PDF/FSA-7573.pdf
7
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Pokeweed
•
Vigorous perennial weed.
•
Ripe purple berries are poisonous and
can stain clothing.
•
Birds eat the ripe berries in September
and spread it.
•
Look for it especially along fence lines,
borders and under shrubs.
•
Aggressively dig it out when noticed or
treat with a brush killer type of
pesticide.
•
Don’t park the car under trees or wires
or hang your laundry out near ripe
berries
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this factsheet:
http://extension.psu.edu/pests/weeds/weed-id/pokeweed
8
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Poison Ivy
• Common native vine. Leaves of 3,
let it be.
• Is toxic when crushed. All parts
are poisonous. Even in the winter,
or if dead!!
• Carefully dig, bag it and dispose
of it off your property.
• Birds and animals eat the berries
and distribute the plants.
• Hand pull weeds around it then
target chemical treatment with
a spray labeled for poison ivy.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/
pests/weeds/hgic2307.html
9
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Oriental Bittersweet
•
•
•
•
•
•
Invasive, aggressive vine.
Can strangle smaller trees and
shrubs if uncontrolled.
Wildlife eat the berries and disperse
the seeds.
Clusters of orange rooted seedlings
can be found along fence lines or
under plants where birds frequently
perch.
Pull as early as detected. Poison ivy
killers will control it if necessary.
Never use bittersweet berries in
seasonal decorations.
Photos by Rosanne Sherry,
URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/oriental_bi
ttersweet_an_aggressive_invasive_plant
10
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Bindweed
• Aggressive native weed.
• Related to morning glory.
• Learn to recognize the
arrowhead leaf and pull.
• Follow the vine to the ground
and pull.
• Be careful using broadleaf
weed killers when it is
entangled in a desirable plant.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://extension.psu.edu/pests/weeds/weed-id
/field-bindweed
11
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Crownvetch
•
•
•
•
•
Rapidly growing vine.
Originally planted on roadsides to prevent
erosion.
Has escaped and can show up in shrub
beds or flower gardens. May come in on
topsoil or bulk mulch.
Pulling early helps but ignoring it is
undesirable. Deep roots make removal of
an established colony difficult.
Landscape fabric at planting followed by
mulch keeps this from overtaking the
garden.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-l
ibrary/plant-week/crownvetch-7-13-07.aspx
12
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Aphids
• Most prevalent in spring when new
growth is lush.
• Frequently on the tips where the new
growth is.
• The are sap suckers. This damage can
crinkle the leaves and produce small
holes in newly emerging leaves.
• The come in a variety of colors. Some
are specific to their host others are
generalists.
• Easily controlled indoors or out with
organic solutions on a weekly basis
when seen.
For more information check this factsheet:
http://extension.unh.edu/resources/represen
tation/Resource000541_Rep563.pdf
13
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Bumblebees
• Native non-aggressive bee
species.
• Larger than European honey
bees.
• Active generalist pollinator.
• Generally nests in the ground
and does not produce honey.
• If visiting the garden on a cool
or rainy day look for them under
the flowers or leaves staying
out of the rain!
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/beekeepers
/factsheets/bumble_bees_as_pollinators.html
14
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Scale
• Very common on
houseplants. Another sap
sucker like aphids.
• Sooty mold, black fungus, is
a sign.
• Hard to kill. Treat multiple
times or consider
eliminating the host plant.
• Organic insecticidal soap or
pyrethrins should control
them.
• Isolate the host plant from
the rest of your collection.
For more information check this website:
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/armoredand-soft-scales-trees-and-shrubs
15
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Mealybug
• Another common houseplant
pest.
• Another sap sucker, with sooty
mold as an indicator.
• Looks like fluffy popcorn.
• Commonly hides in the nooks and
crannies or the underside of the
leaves.
• Recurring treatment will control
it. Organic controls like
insecticidal soap or pyrethrins
work well.
For more information check this website:
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/mealybugs
-houseplants
16
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Praying Mantis
•
Predatory insect. There may only be one in
your yard.
•
Most prominent in late summer and fall.
Observe it methodically moving through the
garden every day.
•
Look for egg cases in shrubs. It looks like a
dirty marshmallow attached to a twig.
•
Potentially can eat other beneficial insects
like bees and butterflies.
•
Don’t purchase egg cases for release. They
are cannibalistic! One will dominate and eat
all it’s siblings.
Photo by Sue Dunn, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/insects/
predators-praying-mantid-mantis
17
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Dog Day Cicada
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●
●
●
Every August they buzz day and night.
These are annual. They are not the
periodical cicadas that devastate landscapes
every 17 years.
They are in your oaks and maples but do
little damage to the trees.
They live their first year underground,
emerge and climb and ‘sing’ in the second
year.
After mating they die and drop out of the
trees.
Look at the perfect camouflage of their
bodies.
Those huge wings are what they vibrate to
create that summertime buzz.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/
O&T/shrubs/note17/note17.html
18
Master G ardener Quick Tip
Winter Moth – Spring
•
The caterpillar starts feeding in March and
April in the tight buds. Leaves emerge in
May already damaged.
•
It is a green inchworm with a white line down
it’s back.
•
Leaves are riddled with holes. Maples and
oaks are favorite hosts.
•
If you still see the caterpillars, spray an
organic product like Bt (Bacillus
thuringensis) or Spinosad.
•
Only treat plants under 15 feet. Especially
blueberries and newly planted trees or
specimens. Larger trees will survive.
•
Birds and other wildlife do feed on the
caterpillars.
Here’s the fact sheet we have in hard copy
in each kiosk kit.
19
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Winter Moth – Fall
•
Seen in late November and early December as moths.
•
They emerge from the soil and are active whenever air
temperatures are above freezing.
•
The flying moths are males, the female cannot fly and
stays in the trees.
•
They are seeking mates and will lay eggs in the loose
bark of host trees.
•
In early fall, trees can be wrapped with safe materials
like cotton batting or canvas at 4-5 foot height. No
chemicals need to be applied. Females crawling up the
tree will get caught. Clean up the wrapping regularly as
long as you see activity.
•
Eggs start hatching as early as late March.
Here’s the fact sheet we have in hard copy in
each kiosk kit.
20
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Gypsy Moth
• Common leaf eating caterpillar that prefers oaks and maples.
• Easily confused with the Eastern Tent Caterpillar. Look for the
double row of blue and red spots.
• Is cyclical and locally heavy. Look on the undersides of branches
for irregular fuzzy tan patches. These are the egg masses.
• A naturally occurring fungus follows a heavy year, cutting back
the population.
• Wildlife will eat the young caterpillars.
• Spray trees by mid-May with an organic product such as Bt
(Bacillus thuringensis) or Spinosad.
• Timing is important for spray programs to reduce the damage
and nuisance later in the summer.
• Focus your attention on younger trees or valuable specimen
trees. Don’t worry about the trees in adjacent woodlands.
For more informationcheck this website:
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2811/2811-1021/
2811-1021.html
21
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Wind Damage
• Microbursts can create havoc in
small or wide spread areas. August
2015 is shown. The biggest trees
are at highest risk.
• Many succumb because the tree is
old and diseased in the centers.
• Be careful as live wires may be
involved. Call for professional help.
• Photograph all property damage and
call your insurance company before
the trees are removed.
• What falls in the street is the
municipality’s concern, but
photograph it anyway for insurance.
Photos by Sue Dunn, URI
Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/environ
ment/trees-woodlands/storm-damage-to
-landscape-trees/
22
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Snow Damage
• After a heavy wet snow or ice storm, carefully knock the snow off
as soon as it’s safe to get to the trees or shrubs.
• Do not handle a plant encased in ice. Wait till it melts.
• If the tree has hit a building or property, don’t touch it. Take
photos and call your insurance company. You may get a tax
deduction for the damage.
• Photograph all your large trees BEFORE they are damaged as
insurance proof.
• Most trees and shrubs will recover. There may be some permanent
bending but that can be handled with corrective pruning later in
the spring.
• Don’t do anything to the plants if temperatures plummet. Wait it
out. The plants will, too. The limbs will be very brittle and may
snap.
• Shrubs like rhododendrons or hollies may need corrective pruning
for a couple of years after a bad snow/ice storm.
Photo by Sue Dunn, URI Master Gardener
For more information check this website:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yardgarden/trees-shrubs/protecting-from-winter-d
amage/
23
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Eastern Tent Caterpillar
•
Common forest pest that can attack home
landscapes, especially fruit trees.
•
Grey tent shaped nest forms in April and May in
the crotches of trees.
•
Easily distinguished from Gypsy Moth by the solid
white line running the length of the larva.
•
Tear open the nests you can reach so the birds
will have a feast. Avoid burning the nests.
•
The caterpillars hide in the nest by day and feed
in the tree by night.
•
Spray the tree with Bt or Spinosad in the late
afternoon when the caterpillars start to emerge.
Don’t worry about the forest trees.
•
Birds will feed on the cocoons in June and July.
For more informationcheck this website:
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/eastern-tent
-caterpillar-trees
24
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Bittercress
• Winter annual weed that is very
prolific in moist, sandy or organic soil,
even the lawn.
• First greenery to emerge in March and
April. Stays low and spreads rapidly
with tiny seeds.
• Common in southeast and relatively
new to the northeast.
• In mild winters easily overwinters as a
rosette.
• Pull it early in the spring. Not
necessary to treat with weed killers.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, Horticulture Educator
For more information visit check this website:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep511
25
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Tents vs. Patches
•
Eastern Tent Caterpillar tents start enlarging in
April from a small grey egg case surrounding a twig.
•
The nests are frequently in crotches of trees or
between two branches.
•
The caterpillars hide in the nest by day and feed in the
tree at night.
•
Tear open the nest with a branch or rake and let the
birds clean them up.
•
Gypsy Moth Caterpillar egg cases are tan and fuzzy.
Eastern
Tent nest
Frequently found on the undersides of limbs.
•
Larvae start hatching out in early May. Spray smaller
yard tress in Mid May for at least 2 weeks. Bt or
spinosad are good organics to use.
•
The egg cases overwinter. Start inspecting the trees and
hand pick what you find at lower levels.
Gypsy
Moth
egg cases
Call the URI Master Gardener hotline M-TH
March thru October 9-2PM 1-800-448-1011
Visit:web.uri.edu/ceoc
26
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Stripes vs. Spots
• Eastern tent caterpillar has a solid
Eastern
Tent
bright white line running the length of it’s
body. They are prevalent in May and June.
• Gypsy moth caterpillar have a distinct
pattern of a double row of raised dots the
first 4 sets are blue, the remaining sets are
red.
•
Both actively feed in May and June. Easily
controlled under 15 feet with Bt or
spinosad.
•
Moths are nuisances in July. Birds feed on
the cocoons of both.
Gypsy Moth
Call the URI Master Gardener hotline M-TH
March thru October 9-2PM 1-800-448-1011
Visit:web.uri.edu/ceoc
27
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Lily Leaf Beetle
True lilies are at risk.
Emerges in late May as an adult. Feeds, mates and lays
eggs.
By mid June larvae, which look like bird droppings,
cover the plant and devour it.
Organic products containing Neem are best to repel
adults and kill larvae.
BE VIGILANT AND ATTACK AT THE FIRST SIGN
OF THE ADULTS OR LARVAE
Parasitic flies have been released in the past decade
and are spreading.
Over time you will see fewer because the parasite
catches up with the population.
Here is the factsheet we have on hand in the
kiosk kits.
28
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Confusing Summer Beetles
A.
B.
C.
D.
Japanese Beetle - daytime
European Chafer - daytime
Asiatic Garden Beetle - nighttime
(basil and mums)
Oriental Beetle - nighttime
A
B
In RI, all emerge in late June and early
July in huge numbers. They eat a wide
variety of plants in flower and vegetable
gardens. Classic damage are holes chewed
in the leaves or the flowers.
Organic treatments like pyrethrum and
neem are recommended and work well.
Always be careful of pollinators and
spraying flowers directly.
C
D
Call the URI Master Gardener hotline M-TH
March thru October 9-2PM 1-800-448-1011
Visit:web.uri.edu/ceoc
29
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Neonicotinoids
FACT: Some formulations of Neem, pyrethrum, canola oil, clove
oil, diatomaceous earth, are toxic to bees, too.
What you can do:
●
Plants that are not sources of nectar can be treated
according to package directions. Like when treating for
hemlock wooly adelgid.
●
When you need to treat a potential pollinator plant, apply
the product after bloom. Choose the least residual product
available (dinotefuran or acetamiprid)
●
Avoid using these products altogether on plants such as
milkweed. The pollinators don’t mind aphids, why should
you?
●
Liquid lawn chemicals should be avoided when flowers in the
lawn (weeds) are blooming or nearby garden flowers are
blooming.
Check this factsheet
http://www.xerces.org/wp-content/uploads/
2013/06/NeonicsInYourGarden.pdf
30
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Crabgrass
Most common lawn weed. Is actually an annual
growing from seed each year. This is key to
accurate control.
Best time to treat is with a seed killer in late
April and early May.
MUST be cautious about products used if
seeding a new lawn.
Most prevalent in summer. Sets seeds, turns
purplish and dies by the first cold nights in the
fall.
Indicates a thin turf needing fertilizer, better
seed and irrigation. Renovation may be easier.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
Check this fact sheet for more details about crabgrass.
https://www.agry.purdue.edu/turfnew/pubs/AY-10.pdf
31
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Cedar Apple Rust
Starts to appear at the first warm spring
rains. Starts out looking like a walnut.
This fungus uses two hosts to complete its
life cycle. It starts on juniper then jumps
to apples. Apple leaves become spotted and
drop early in the summer.
To control, if apples are more important,
avoid junipers in the landscape. Use
preventative fungicide sprays by late May
on the apples to protect them. Select
resistant junipers and/or apples.
Photo by Rosanne Sherry, URI Master Gardener
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-diseases/all-fact-sheets/ced
ar-apple-and-related-rusts
32
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Carpenter Bees
Looks similar to bumblebees but has a black
spot on his back and a shiny black abdomen.
A great native pollinating bee but like his name
implies he drills perfect round holes into
untreated wood of structures.
While big, clumsy and a little intimidating, they
are not aggressive.
To prevent or stop damage fill holes with wood
putty and paint or stain the surfaces.
Photo by Susan Dunn, URI Master Gardener
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/carpenter-bees
33
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Confusing Cucumber Beetles
Look for orange egg masses under
the leaves and squish ‘em.
Feeding beetles spread bacterial
wilt which can kill the plant
causing permanent wilting and
browning of the leaves.
Row covers early in the season,
dust with kaolin clay or
diatomaceous earth, neem or
spinosad will keep this pest in
check.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/insects/find/cucumberbeetles-in-vegetable-gardens/
34
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Squash Bugs
Can attack all types of squash and
pumpkins both leaves and fruit.
Check for clusters of yellowish to bronze
eggs under the leaves. Squash ‘em.
Both larvae and adults feed.
Row covers early in the season keep them
out.
Neem or spinosad will help control them.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/insects/find/squash
-bugs/
35
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Tomato Hornworm
Active by early July. Is well
camouflaged in the plant. Check
the undersides.
Birds will eat them.
Hand picking and Bt will easily
control them.
Leave alone any that have the
wasp cocoons on them. They are
already doomed.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://extension.umd.edu/growit/insects/tobaccotomatohornworm
36
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Flea Beetles
Commonly found on eggplant and
cabbage family.
Leave behind small bullet holes in the
leaves.
Small black beetles.
Row covers early in the season, dust
with kaolin clay or diatomaceous
earth, neem or spinosad will keep this
pest in check.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://extension.umd.edu/growit/insects/flea-beetle
37
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Mexican Bean Beetles
Common on all types of beans.
Crush eggs on the undersides of
leaves.
Larvae and adults feed on the
leaves and pods.
Row covers early in the season,
dust with kaolin clay or
diatomaceous earth, neem or
spinosad will keep this pest in
check.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://extension.umd.edu/growit/insects/mexican-bean-beetle
38
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Imported Cabbage Worms
All of the Cabbage family is susceptible.
Adult is a small white butterfly with a
black spot on each wing.
Floating row covers will keep the
butterfly out. Otherwise Bt will stop the
worms in their tracks.
Other worms that may attack cabbage
would be treated the same.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://extension.umd.edu/growit/insects/imported
-cabbageworm
39
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Squash Vine Borer
Hard to control because the eggs are tiny and
larvae immediately burrow inside the vine.
Timing is critical. By mid June have row covers
over the plants or foil wrapped around the vine
from the ground up at least a foot.
Plant a second crop after July 1. Egg laying is a
very small window.
Slicing vines to kill larvae is risky.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://extension.umd.edu/growit/insects/squash-vine-borer
40
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Mosquitos
Avoid all standing water conditions in the yard. Turn
over kiddie pools when not in use.
Flush out bird baths daily
Keep ornamental garden pond aerated. Fish will feed on
mosquito larvae.
Encourage bats and dragonflies.
Avoid dawn and dusk in the garden when numbers are
greatest.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.health.ri.gov/disease/carriers/mosquitoes/
41
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Ticks
http://www.tickencounter.org/ For in depth information
including how to get a tick tested.
Spray clothing with permethrin but not on skin. Use 10-30%
DEET on skin.
Treat outdoor cats and dogs, Be careful with young animals.
Consider purchasing treated clothing.Tuck pants into long
hiking socks. Stay on trails.
Consider a spray treatment of the yard perimeter.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.health.ri.gov/diseases/#ticks
42
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Chickweed
Common spring and summer weed of gardens.
Grows as a low mat.
Annual that is easily pulled up. General lawn pre
and post emergent weed killers can be used.
Maintaining a thick lawn with liming, fertilizing
and irrigation can suppress it.
Has many herbal and medicinal uses. High in
vitamins and minerals. Do not eat from a
garden that has been treated with chemicals.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/common-chickweed
43
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Robber Fly
Both immature and adult stages are
predators.
They feast on a wide range of insects
from grasshoppers, bees, wasps,
beetles and even dragonflies.
Watch your gardens carefully in the
humid summer months for these
garden helpers.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/beneficials/benef
icial-27_robber_flies.htm
44
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Septoria Leaf Blight of
Tomato
Common summer leaf disease.Thrives in hot
humid conditions.
Does not infect the fruit. Too late to spray
anything once spots appear.
Avoid overhead watering to slow
progression.
Fungicides need to be started long before
spots appear in early June.
Remove heavily affected leaves as they
appear.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-184-w.pdf
45
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Early Blight of Tomato
Common summer leaf disease.Thrives in
hot humid conditions.
Does not infect the fruit. Too late to
spray anything once spots appear.
Avoid overhead watering to slow
progression.
Fungicides need to be started long
before spots appear in early June.
Remove heavily affected leaves as they
appear.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-184-w.pdf
46
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Dragonflies and
Damselflies
Dozens of species are found throughout
southern New England from bogs and swamps,
to woodlands and dry uplands.
Dragonflies and damselflies are common in
summer cruising over ponds or your garden.
They are efficient hunters, especially
mosquitos.
They will sit at a high point in the garden and
scan for prey. They’ll sallie out to catch
something and return to the perch. You can
get quite close to them as they are intent on
their tiny moving prey and not a large object
like a human.
They will not sew your mouth shut!
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.xerces.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/MDP_Field_
Guide_8-3-2012_Final_Websec1.pdf
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Caterpillars Everywhere
Several different caterpillars may be
attacking a variety of plants in your year.
Damage may leave big ragged holes or the
entire leaf may be eaten with only the
veins left.
Bt, the bacteria, commonly used for
tomato hornworms and others earlier in
the season can still be used when seeing
something else.
Refer to Quick Tips #34 and #39
Call the URI Master Gardener hotline M-TH
March thru October 9-2PM 1-800-448-1011
Visit:web.uri.edu/ceoc
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Beetles Chewing
Everything
Beetle damage will frequently leave a
skeleton like appearance.
Most damage is during the day, but
some attack at night.
Treat as soon as damage is spotted.
Treatments need to be made when
the beetle is present and can eat the
material off the leaf.
Refer to Quick Tips pages 29, 34 and 38
for organic treatments
Call the URI Master Gardener hotline M-TH
March thru October 9-2PM 1-800-448-1011
Visit:web.uri.edu/ceoc
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Summer Lawn Weeds
Top photo: Purslane
Profuse prostrate annual weed that takes
over by late summer.
Commonly seen at the edges of the lawn or
beds near pavement or in very sandy soil.
Bottom photo: Spotted Spurge
Similar conditions as Purslane.
Milky sap from cut stems.
Improve the soil conditions or pull as
noticed earlier in the season.
Check this factsheet for more information.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/lawns/lawn-weed-identification
#summerannual
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Crabgrass is #31 MG Quick Tips.
Master Gardener Quick Tip
Powdery Mildew in Squash
Top photo: Normal patterning in some
squashes especially zuchini
Bottom photo: Mildew infection covering
the leaf eventaually.
Prune out heavily infected leaves as they
appear. Sprays, chemical or organic, would
need to have started back in June to
prevent it.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/vegetables/
diseases-of-cucurbits/powdery-mildew/
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Eastern Cottontail Rabbit
Population swings from year to year. High one
year,low the next.
Dust plants or perimeter of gardens with dried
blood.
Natural predators are coyote,fox,hawks and
owls.
Let some white clover thrive in the lawn. They
actually prefer it to the garden, if it’s available.
Check this factsheet for more information.
http://www.dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/fishwild/pdf/rabbits.pdf
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Eastern Gray Squirrel
Eastern Chipmunk
Squirrels are more destructive than
chipmunks. They will eat flowers and
fruit in the search for higher nutrition
and,in drought conditions, moisture from
ripening fruit.
Both will raid bird feeders. It’s amazing
how much seed the chipmunk can stuff in
those cheeks!
Corn is a cheaper seed to let them have.
Check this factsheet for more information on both species.
http://www.dem.ri.gov/programs/bnatres/fishwild/pdf/squirrls.pdf
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Hydrangea Not Blooming
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
The successive droughts
Too shady, low fertilizer
Winter kill of the buds at the tops
Improper pruning of the different colors and types.
Blue and reds bloom on last year’s wood, whites on
current year wood.
Blues thrive on low pH 5.5-6.0. Reds thrive on
higher pH. Whites don’t care.
Only deadhead the flowers after bloom. Do cleanup
pruning in late May after new growth starts on live
twigs.
Don’t plan a wedding around hydrangea bloom or
color.
Top: “Pink Diamond”
Bottom: “Blue Billows”
Check this factsheet for more information
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/news/2015/care-ofhydrangeas
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Blossom End Rot
Common on tomatoes but can occur on other
vegetables.
Mostly caused by an imbalance of uptake of
calcium, exacerbated by infrequent
watering.
Can happen while green or ripe
Be sure pH for tomatoes is 6.5 or higher.
Be sure they are regularly being watered,
especially in droughts
Check this factsheet for more information
https://extension.umd.edu/growit/blossom-end-rot-vegetables
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Fall Lawn Care Part 1
Starting a New Lawn
a. Late August through September.
b. Less weed competition,more rain
c. Select seed for site conditions
i. sun,shade,dry,slope,flat,play
d. Add amendments before seeding
i. lime,fertilizer,compost
e. Get the soil tested at UMASS or UCONN before
amending.
Check this website for more information
https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Fall Lawn Care Part 2
When to Fertilize?
Low maintenance 2x, early spring, and September, but no later than mid
October
High maintenance 3-4x early spring, June, late August, late September. More
than this is extremely excessive, wastes inputs and money.
Fall fertilizers should be higher in Phosphorus to build root strength for the
winter. Spring should have Nitrogen for green up.
Get a full soil analysis from UMASS or UCONN before fertilizing.
Check this website for more information
https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets
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Master Gardener Quick Tip
Fall Lawn Care Part 3
When to Renovate?
Renovation is a complete overhaul of the lawn. It includes striping off old sod,
rototilling, adding amendments and grading. Seeding is last.
Repair is in small areas or simply overseeding or other general lawn care
Renovate when there are more weeds than grass in the lawn.
Renovate when you are depending on pesticides constantly to make it look
respectable.
Right seed, mow high 3”, water one inch a week from May through September at
least (reduce in July and August for natural summer dormancy), fertilize at least in
spring and fall and LIME.
Check this website for more information
https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets
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