seattle - Lonely Planet

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BECKY OHLSEN
SEATTLE
C I T Y
G U I D E
I NTRO DUCI N G SE AT TLE
Kayaking on Lake Union (p166)
RICHARD CUMMINS
It’s raining again, but you don’t mind. This is your cue
to duck inside for another latte. Maybe you’ll chase it
with a local microbrew, then tackle the Space Needle
before rocking the Crocodile Café.
Welcome to Seattle, whose perpetually cloudy skies mean that if the sun peeks out for a second,
everyone drops whatever they’re doing and gears up to take their kayaks or bicycles out. They
can do this because they’re part-time baristas, freelance IT consultants, club bookers or chefs
at all-organic small-plates restaurants. They’re as likely to drink PBR as IPA, but they’d rather
die than sip truck-stop coffee or down a quarter pounder with cheese. They always recycle.
They’ve been on skid road, and they know Alki has nothing to do with the drinking habits
of barflies in Pioneer Square. If you ask them, they’ll tell you it really doesn’t rain that much
around here.
They might also tell you to watch the ‘flying fish’ at Pike Place Market early in the morning,
visit the Olympic Sculpture Garden around sunset and take an evening ferry ride to Bainbridge
Island. Most likely they’ll say not to bother with the Space Needle unless the weather is brilliant. If you’re game for a bar crawl, they might take you to Georgetown, the neighborhood for
drinkers in the know. If you’re arty, it might be an opening at an edgy Belltown gallery instead.
Or you could just get hopped up on caffeine and go thrifting all day. Despite what you hear,
you may be surprised at how little anyone minds the fickle weather.
2
SEATTLE
LIFE
Seattle is the largest metro area in the
‘Seattle sits on the verge
of major structural and
demographic change’
Pacific Northwest, with a population of
about 3.3 million (580,000 in the city
proper). It’s a bookish, well-educated
place, but also a dynamic and inventive
urban center – most of the city’s recent
economic growth has been fueled by technology: both high-tech and the old-school, engine-parts variety. The Port of Seattle is the
second-largest handler of container cargo in the United States.
Two of its most successful citizens also happen to be Seattle’s two largest public figures, Bill
Gates and Paul Allen. And they symbolize a certain aspect of the city’s contradictory attitude
toward its own success. Both undeniably ambitious and indisputably successful, Gates and
Allen are seen simultaneously as points of civic pride and shameless capitalists who are totally
alien to the prevailing Seattle culture.
And speaking of culture, you’ll be forgiven for thinking Seattle’s is mostly white – at least if
you hang out in hipster coffee shops or go to many indie-rock shows – but Seattle has a rich
multicultural history and is home to Native American, African American, Asian American and
growing Ethiopian American populations. The city ranks 23rd of the 30 largest US cities in
African-American population, at 8.4% – higher than every West Coast city except Los Angeles.
It also has the largest concentration of Native Americans in the Pacific Northwest. The largest
group in urban Seattle is the Duwamish people, the Native Americans who originally lived on
the shores of Elliott Bay.
It’s been a neighborhood-centric city for most of its history, but Seattle now sits on the verge
of major structural and demographic change. The area expects 40% population growth in the
next two decades, and the regional transportation board has already begun reshaping the city’s
landscape with new mass-transit plans. It’s an exciting time to visit an always exciting place.
Marching girls parade through Seattle's International District (p59)
LAWRENCE WORCESTER
3
H I G H LI G HT S

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
D OW N TOW N & FI R ST H I LL
Downtown Seattle is the functional business heart of the city, with a jungle of office
buildings and an electric weekday buzz. It’s also home to many of the city’s main
hotels, as well as the Seattle Art Museum. Head to First Hill to see the stately, historic
Sorrento Hotel.
 Sorrento Hotel
Dabble in decadence at the Sorrento Hotel (p51)

Seattle Public Library
Find peace and prose at this stylish library (p49)
 Seattle Art Museum
Gawp at Jonathan Borofsky’s 1992 sculpture
Hammering Man, which dominates the museum
entrance (p48)


RICHARD CUMMINS
4
RICHARD CUMMINS

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
PIONEER SQUARE & INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT
Pioneer Square is the birthplace of Seattle, and its redbrick buildings and plazas give
it a historical, film-set feel. It’s also popular for its restaurants, bars and independent
shops, which are well worth a visit. The International District is home to Seattle’s
Chinatown and the Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American Experience.

Wing Luke Museum of the
Asian Pacific American
Experience
Absorb yourself in Pan-Asian history (p59)
 Pioneer Square Park
Step back in time to Seattle’s early days (p57)
 Zeitgeist
Perk up on coffee in arty surrounds (p141)

ANN CECIL

CHUCK PEFLEY/ALAMY
5

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
PI K E PL ACE M AR K E T & WATE R FRO NT
One of Seattle’s best-loved attractions, Pike Place Market is a labyrinthine fish and
produce market that oozes theatricality. Find yourself entertained amid ‘flying fish,’
buskers, tourists and locals before stepping out along the Waterfront, where scenic
views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains await.

JOHN ELK III
 Pike Place Market
Watch the world go by at this loud, lovable market (p62)
 Seattle Aquarium
Spy the underwater world of Puget Sound (p66)
 Waterfront
Catch the flavour of a major seaport (p65)
6

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
B E LLTOW N
The alternative scene in Belltown may have mellowed slightly, but this neighborhood
can still be classed as cool. Watch a band at the Crocodile Café before taking an
easy stroll to other offbeat bars in the area. Belltown is also home to the impressive
Olympic Sculpture Park.

RICHARD CUMMINS
 Olympic Sculpture Park
Feel small next to Richard Serra’s 2004
sculpture, Wake (p67)
 Ace Hotel
Be fascinated by bedtime reading at this hipster
hotel (p179)
 Shorty’s
Play pinball and drink beer (p142)

LAWRENCE WORCESTER

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
7

RICHARD CUMMINS
S E AT TLE CE NTE R & Q U E E N AN N E
Seattle Center is a 1960s vision of the future, making it an endearingly retro place to
visit. As well as the Space Needle, it contains numerous museums and attractions,
including the Experience Music Project. Rising up on the hill above Seattle Center is
the dignified Queen Anne neighborhood.

International
Fountain
Get wet in sci-fi International
Fountain (p73)
 Queen Anne
Pose by perfectly manicured lawns
(p74)

Experience Music
Project
Be wowed by Frank Gehry’s 2000
museum (p72)
 Space Needle

ANN CECIL
Zoom to the top for incredible
views (p71)


LAWRENCE WORCESTER
8
RICHARD CUMMINS
LAKE UNION, CAPITOL HILL & VOLUNTEER PARK
Lake Union hums with the sound of seaplanes, but you can have fun skirting the
edge on a bike or boat. Nearby Capitol Hill is an artsy and diverse neighborhood,
where you’ll find cafes, galleries and street theater. If you need a break from kayaks
and counterculture, stop at the Volunteer Park Conservatory.
 Wall of Sound
Flip through racks of music (p114)
 Jimi Hendrix Statue
Check out Daryl Smith’s 1997 statue of the
guitar legend (p80)
 Lake Union
Paddle or cycle around this Y-shaped lake (p76)
 Volunteer Park Conservatory
Brush past palms in Seattle’s tropical corner
(p80)

LAWRENCE WORCESTER

ANN CECIL

LAWRENCE WORCESTER

JOHN ELK III
9

LAWRENCE WORCESTER
FR E M O NT & WALLI N G FO R D
Fun-loving Fremont has coffee shops, pubs and some of the oddest public art that
you’ll ever see, making a visit to this neighborhood a must. Pleasant Wallingford, on
the route of the Burke-Gilman cycle trail, is home to some noteworthy restaurants
and Gas Works Park.
 Gas Works Park
Find yourself drawn inexplicably to a strange mass of pipes (p91)
 Fremont Troll
Quake before the 1990 statue, the Fremont Troll (p88)
 Statue of Lenin
Consider the seven tons of Slovakian scrap that make up Emil Venkov's
1988 statue (p88)


LAWRENCE WORCESTER
10
LAWRENCE WORCESTER
BALL AR D & D I SCOV E RY PAR K
Ballard is a Scandinavian-influenced neighborhood that lies just over Ballard Bridge.
It seems a world away from urban Seattle and is known for its down-to-earth bars
and live-music venues, as well as the interesting Fish Ladder. Neighboring Discovery
Park is 534 acres of urban wilderness.

DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY
 Ballard Fish Ladder
Spot salmon on their way to spawn (p97)
 Nordic Heritage Museum
Learn more about Ballard's heritage (p95)

 Discovery Park
Walk the trails and escape the city (p98)
RON BUSKIRK/ALAMY

RICHARD CUMMINS
G R E E N L AK E & PH I N N E Y R I D G E
If you like zoos, parks, rose gardens and low-key neighborhoods, then you’ll love
Green Lake and Phinney Ridge. Green Lake Park is a perfect place for sunbathing
in summer or walking in fall, and Woodland Park Zoo is one of Seattle’s greatest
tourist attractions.
 Woodland Park Zoo
Strut your stuff at the zoo (p94)
 Seattle Rose Garden
Smell the scent of 5000 roses (p94)

LAWRENCE WORCESTER

JOHN ELK III
11

RICHARD CUMMINS
AROUN D SE AT TLE
Situated in a stunning part of the Pacific Northwest, Seattle is within easy reach of
mountain ranges, the ocean, hundreds of islands and a temperate rainforest. This
makes Seattle a perfect hub for getting out and exploring the natural world.
 Mt Rainier National Park
Climb the highest peak in the Cascades (p193)
 Hoh River Rain Forest
Hike in a mossy temperate rainforest (p198)
 San Juan Islands
Kayak around breathtaking islands (p189)
 Ferry across Puget Sound
Ride the waves and look back at Seattle’s
famous skyline (p187)

JOHN ELK III


TOM BOYDEN
12
LAWRENCE WORCESTER
TH E AUTH O R
Becky Ohlsen
Becky has lived in
the Pacific Northwest
for the past 15 years,
originally drawn here
from her native Colorado by the promise
of great music and
the ocean. Upon
arrival she discovered
that the area also provided excellent beer,
a wide variety of pinball machines, cute skater
boys and lots of rainy days in which to moodily
read in coffee shops. She lives in Portland,
Oregon, after surviving a brief, educational,
expensive and decidedly temporary stay in
New York City, where against everyone’s better judgment she earned a master’s degree in
journalism. In addition to covering Seattle
for Lonely Planet, she has worked as a copy
editor and freelance writer for alternative
newspapers and magazines, and occasionally
reviews movies for a local independent radio
station. When she’s not traveling for guidebook research, Becky races vintage motorcycles very, very tentatively. She’s a member of
the Sang-Froid Riding Club and a veteran of
the infamous ‘555’ Ride, and much prefers
two wheels to four. Her favorite bar in Seattle
is Shorty’s and her favorite Nirvana album
is Bleach.
BECKY’S TOP SEATTLE DAY
When I’m in Seattle I like to wake up uncharacteristically early and go straight to Pike Place
Market (p62). The scene here is fascinating any
time of day, but it’s best in the morning, when
most of the customers are locals getting their
shopping done. It’s a nice place for a walking breakfast, too, with options ranging from
fresh fruit to coffee and pastries to a hefty hum
bao (steamed pork bun) big enough to power
you through the whole day. After exploring
the labyrinth of weird little market shops, I’ll
browse the progressive literature at Left Bank
Books (p110) to keep myself honest and bolster
hope. Afterwards, a short stroll down toward
Elliott Bay gives me a panoramic view of the
mountains from the new Olympic Sculpture
Park (p67).
Of course I can’t be in Seattle without
spending some time digging around the
shelves at Elliott Bay Book Company (p113),
and as long as I’m this close I might as well
treat myself to an artisan ice cream at Molly
Moon’s (p131) for lunch.
I’ll spend the rest of the afternoon soaking
up culture at the Seattle Art Museum (p48),
abandon it for happy hour at the Nitelite
Lounge (p140), then probably squander the
evening and whatever’s left in my pockets
on pinball and beer in the back room of
Shorty’s (p142).
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
Why is our travel information the best in the world?
It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated
travelers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for
positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you’re
given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research
using just the internet or phone. They discover new
places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces,
trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with
dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the
kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you.
They take pride in getting all the details right, and in
telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how
at lonelyplanet.com.
15
G E T TI N G STAR TE D
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
Other than finding accommodations, Seattle doesn’t require a huge amount of pre-planning.
Most of the can’t-miss sights are clustered around downtown within easy walking distance of
each other. If you bring a decent map, book accommodations in advance and have some sort
of plan for transportation (whether it’s a car and an idea of where you’ll park overnight, or a
public-transport schedule), you’ll be fine. Keep in mind that the city is hillier than it looks on
maps and – if you’re driving – many streets in the city center are one-way only.
Once you’re there, getting around is relatively easy. Driving and parking are the main annoyances – if you can avoid them, you’ll be happier. Luckily this is easy to do. Buses connect
to most neighborhoods of interest to visitors, although they stop running too early to be of
much use for nightlife exploration. But then, that’s why Mother Nature gave us taxi cabs (see
the Transportation chapter, p199).
For more help with planning, visit Seattle’s Convention and Visitors Bureau (Map p50; %206-461-5888, 866732-2695; www.visitseattle.org; 701 Pike St; h9am-5pm). The website has a schedule of events, a few discount
coupons and a form for ordering a visitor-information packet. Also among the bureau’s services
is the Citywide Concierge Center, a free service for visitors that will book you a table, a tour or
transportation and answer questions about events going on while you’re in town.
WHEN
TO GO
Unless you’re a skier or snowboarder – or
really interested in aquatic life – Seattle in
the winter makes for a pretty dreary holiday.
The city receives 65% of its precipitation from
November to March. But in spring the relentless downpour frequently lets up to provide
gorgeous days that are well worth the wait.
April and May are best for enjoying the
fruits of all that gloomy winter rain: suddenly everything is supernaturally green and
covered in flowers. Summer – June, July and
August – is the high season and can usually
be relied upon for sunny days, warm weather
and lots of people saying things like ‘I thought
you said it rained all the time here.’ Fall, the
season of Bumbershoot and Oktoberfest, is
the favorite of beer lovers and music fans.
FESTIVALS
January
CHINESE NEW YEAR
%206-382-1197; www.cidbia.org
Beginning toward the end of January or
the start of February and lasting for two
weeks, the year’s first big ethnic festival
takes place in the International District; you
can contact the Chinatown/International
District Business Improvement Association
for information. The first day of the New
Year festival is celebrated with parades,
firecrackers, fireworks and plenty of food.
16
February
NORTHWEST FLOWER & GARDEN
SHOW
%800-229-6311; www.gardenshow.com;
Washington State Convention & Trade Center
Usually held the second week of February,
this popular event includes lectures and
seminars, demo gardens and samples, and
children’s activities.
March
MOISTURE FESTIVAL
%800-838-3006; www.moisturefestival.com;
Hale’s Palladium, 4301 Leary Way NW;
tickets $5-25
With regular performances held between
March 15 and April 1, the Moisture Festival
has developed from a little-known
quirkfest into something that locals look
forward to each year. It has retained a
laid-back, casual vibe and usually features
random appearances by folks like Artis
the Spoonman, Circus Contraption and
The Bobs.
ST PATRICK’S DAY
March 17 is the day the patron saint of
Ireland is honored by all those who have
Irish in their blood, and by those who want
to have Irish beer in their blood. Everyone
wears green (otherwise you risk getting
pinched). Irish bars such as Kells serve
green beer, and even bars that haven’t
April
CHERRY BLOSSOM & JAPANESE
CULTURAL FESTIVAL
%206-723-2003; www.seattlecenter.com;
Seattle Center
May
CINCO DE MAYO
May 5 commemorates the day on which
the Mexicans wiped out the French
Army in 1862. Now it’s the day all
Americans get to eat lots of Mexican
food and drink margaritas. Seattle
celebrates with an annual parade and
exhibitions of Hispanic artwork.
OPENING DAY OF YACHT SEASON
%206-325-1000; www.seattleyachtclub.org
Held the first Saturday in May at various
locations on Lakes Washington and Union,
this Seattle original starts with a blessing of
the fleet. It features scull racing and a boat
parade through the canals.
%206-684-7338; www.seattleinternational.org;
Seattle Center
Held in mid-May, this cultural extravaganza
includes a wide variety of performances
and activities for kids.
NORTHWEST FOLKLIFE
FESTIVAL
%206-684-7300; www.nwfolklife.org;
Seattle Center
This festival – the largest of its kind
in North America – takes over Seattle
Center during Memorial Day weekend.
More than 5000 performers and artists
from over 100 countries present music,
dance, crafts, food and activities in
celebration of the rich cultural heritage
of the Pacific Northwest.
SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL FILM
FESTIVAL
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
Usually held in mid-April, this celebration of
Japanese heritage includes performances
of music, dance and drama. It’s part of
the Seattle Center’s series of multicultural
festivals, dubbed Festál.
SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL
CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL
lonelyplanet.com
an Irish trinket in sight get swamped with
revelers. Catch the parade going from City
Hall to Westlake Center along 4th Ave.
%206-324-9996; www.seattlefilm.com
Held from late May to mid-June, this
festival, the largest of its kind in the
nation, brings nearly a month’s worth
of international film premieres to
Seattle. Screenings take place at several
theaters across the city, including the
official SIFF Theater in Seattle Center.
Check the film festival’s website for a
detailed schedule.
ADVANCE PLANNING
As in any large American city, planning ahead will let you spend more of your time enjoying Seattle. Things like car
rental, accommodations and tours should be booked in advance. If you show up without a hotel booking in peak season,
you might find yourself stranded.
Train tickets to Seattle may need to be booked in advance, as some trains do sell out. Make reservations at www
.amtrak.com or by phone at %800-872-7245.
If you’re hoping to see a particular performance or game, whether it’s the Mariners or the opera, it’s wise to buy
tickets in advance. See individual listings chapters for price ranges and information on how to book (for sporting events,
see p165; for theater and other performance events, see p159).
Some restaurants recommend or require booking a table in advance, and these are noted in the Eating chapter
(p119). For most places in Seattle, booking a day or two ahead is enough, unless it’s a holiday.
The Seattle CityPass (www.citypass.net), which offers discounts on Seattle museums and other attractions, can be
ordered in advance on its website. The website www.dailycandy.com produces a ‘weekend guide’ to Seattle; it’s worth
subscribing to the mailing list before a trip.
It’s useful to read up on what’s happening in town via The Stranger’s savvy and entertaining online blogs, Slog (for
news) and LineOut (for music and nightlife) at www.thestranger.com. Rabid menu-readers will appreciate the Seattle
Times’ archive of restaurant reviews at www.seattletimes.com.
Seattle’s Citywide Concierge Center (%206-461-5888; www.visitseattle.org; 701 Pike St) can help with advance
bookings of almost anything you’ll need, including accommodations, tours and the CityPass.
17
lonelyplanet.com
June
FREMONT STREET FAIR
%206-649-6706; www.fremontfair.com
Off-kilter Fremont is just the place you’d
want to be for a street fair. This one has live
music, food and crafts, and the overtly artsy
Solstice Parade, where human-powered
floats traipse through the neighborhood
in a lively tribute to quirkiness. It takes
place adjacent to the ship canal, usually
in mid-June.
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
SEATTLE PRIDE FESTIVAL
%206-684-7200; www.seattlepride.org;
Seattle Center
Seattle’s lesbian- and gay-pride event
usually falls on the last Sunday in June and
includes a film festival, art exhibit, parade
and the requisite food and entertainment.
July
BITE OF SEATTLE
%425-283-5050; www.biteofseattle.com;
Seattle Center
This culinary celebration is usually held the
second weekend in July. Guests can sample
food from dozens of Seattle-area chefs,
including sub-$4 samples at the Just a Bite
booth, and taste local beer and wines. The
evening ends with live music.
SEAFAIR
%206-728-0123; www.seafair.com
A month-long extravaganza, Seafair
is a civic celebration that began as a
hydroplane race on Lake Washington.
It’s now the city’s biggest festival, with
all manner of festivities extending across
Seattle. Events include a torchlight parade,
an air show, lots of music, a carnival and
even the arrival of the naval fleet. Lodging
is in short supply in Seattle on Seafair
weekends and traffic becomes hopelessly
tangled thanks to closed bridges and the
influx of visitors, so plan accordingly.
September
BUMBERSHOOT
%206-281-7788; www.bumbershoot.org
Seattle’s biggest arts and cultural event
takes over Seattle Center on Labor Day
weekend (the first Monday in September).
Hundreds of musicians, artists, theater
18
troupes and writers come from all over
the country to perform on the festival’s
two dozen stages. It’s hard not to find
something you like. There’s also a crafts
street fair and lots of good food from
local vendors.
SEATTLE AIDS WALK
%206-329-6923; www.seattleaidswalk.org
This festive and friendly event, held in late
September, grows every year. It’s a 10km or
5km walk (or run). Locations vary, so check
the website for details. The walk benefits
the Lifelong AIDS Alliance.
FREMONT OKTOBERFEST
%206-632-1500; www.fremontoktoberfest.org
There are versions of Oktoberfest held
all over town, but this one’s a good
introduction to the concept as well as the
neighborhood. Held in late September,
it includes crafts, a car show, live
entertainment and, of course, beer tasting.
October
SEATTLE LESBIAN & GAY FILM
FESTIVAL
%206-323-4274; www.seattlequeerfilm.com
Held in the third week of October, this
film festival brings both mainstream
and underground queer films to various
theaters around town.
HALLOWEEN
On October 31, kids and adults dress up in
scary costumes. In the safer neighborhoods
you’re likely to see children out ‘trick or
OFFBEAT SEATTLE FESTIVALS
Bumbershoot (left) A cultural buffet of music,
theater, artwork and poetry on 25 stages.
 Fremont Street Fair (left) Celebrate one of
Seattle’s quirkiest corners.
 Winterfest (opposite) A celebration of all that’s
cold, furry and white.
 Trolloween (above) Just in case regular Halloween
isn’t weird enough for you.
 Moisture Festival (p16) Performances by oddball
artists both local and international.

December
WINTERFEST
NEW YEAR’S EVE
%206-443-2111; www.seattlecenter.com
The place to be on the 31st is Seattle
Center, where festivities are focused on the
Space Needle. Most people celebrate by
dressing up and drinking champagne, or
staying home and watching it all on TV. The
following day people stay home to nurse
their hangovers and watch college football.
COSTS
& MONEY
As in most large cities, expenses in Seattle
can vary depending on your interests and
means. Accommodations will make up the
bulk of your expenses. Booking in advance
or planning your visit during the off-season
(September–May) will generally get you better
value for money.
A dorm bed in a youth hostel costs about
$35 including taxes; a double room in one
of Seattle’s European-style hotels will go for
$60 to $80, plus tax. Midrange doubles are
between $100 and $200. See the Sleeping
chapter (p173) for details about Seattle Super
Saver hotel discount packages.
After accommodations, dining will probably be your next-largest budget item. The
city offers a good range of meals, from spectacularly decadent restaurant meals to quick,
budget-friendly cafe snacks. It’s a foodie city
that’s well positioned to take advantage of
fresh seafood and produce, which means
that in general splurges will be rewarded with
unforgettable dining experiences. Budget
meals are under $15 a person; breakfast and
brunch and most lunches fall in this category.
Adult ticket up the Space Needle $18
Cover charge at the Crocodile Café $5 to $15
Gallon of gasoline $3
Late-night burrito from a taco cart $5 to $7
Liter of bottled water $2
Pint of local microbrewed beer $4.50
Room at the hip Ace Hotel $99
Souvenir T-shirt $20
Taxi from airport to Pike Place Market $35
Light-rail ticket from airport to downtown $2.50
Midrange prices hover in the $16 to $30 range,
and top-end dinners start around $30, plus
tax, tip and whatever you’re drinking.
For discounts on sights and entertainment,
consider buying a Go Seattle Card (www.goseattlecard
.com) or a CityPass (www.citypass.net), both of
which offer free or discounted admission
to most of the city’s top attractions. See the
Neighborhoods chapter (p92) for details.
GETTING STARTED COSTS & MONEY
%206-684-7200; www.seattlecenter.com
Seattle Center holds a month-long
celebration of holiday traditions from
around the globe, starting with Winter
Worldfest, a massive concert and dance
performance, and continuing with exhibits,
dances, concerts and ice skating.
HOW MUCH?
lonelyplanet.com
treating’ door-to-door for candy. The
gay and lesbian bars are especially wild
places on Halloween, and Fremont has
its own version, Trolloween (named after
the Fremont Troll). It features a candlelit
procession of costumed locals on Halloween
night, followed by a public dance.
INTERNET
RESOURCES
The following websites may be helpful in
planning your travels.
Bohonus VR (www.bohonus.com/galleries) If you just can’t
wait until you get there, check out this site for 360-degree
views of various Seattle sights, shops and hangouts.
Daily Candy (www.dailycandy.com) The Seattle edition
digs up new and fun things to see, do or buy each day.
Hankblog (http://hankblog.wordpress.com) Insider
art-related news and views from the folks at the Henry
Art Gallery.
Lineout (http://lineout.thestranger.com) The Stranger’s
music blog – a great way to get plugged into the scene
quickly.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Succinct summaries on traveling to most places on earth; postcards from
other travelers; and the Thorn Tree bulletin board, where
you can ask questions before you go or dispense advice
when you get back.
Seattle DIY (www.seattlediy.com) A great source of
information on underground events and house shows.
Seattle’s Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.visit
seattle.org) Seattle’s official visitors information site.
Seattlest (www.seattlest.com) An informative (but less
savvy or sassy than the Stranger) blog about various news
and goings-on in and around Seattle.
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lonelyplanet.com
Slog (slog.thestranger.com) A frequently updated blog by
the staff of The Stranger newsweekly.
Sustainable Seattle (www.sustainableseattle.org) Though
it’s a bit academic, this site has thorough information on
ecofriendly projects and initiatives in Seattle.
SUSTAINABLE
SEATTLE
Nature is a huge part of the Seattle experiGETTING STARTED SUSTAINABLE SEATTLE
ence and it should come as no surprise that
the city is good at being green. So what can
visitors do to help?
International flights are pretty much unavoidable, so consider contributing to a carbon offset organization like www.carbonfund
.org, www.terrapass.com, www.nativeenergy
.com or www.driveneutral.org, where your
money is transformed into support for
sustainable practices. Or, if you’re close
enough, plan to travel on a biodiesel bus (p200)
or on a train (p201).
Once you’ve arrived in Seattle, you can
easily get by without having a car. Local bus
networks are good, and biking is a great
option (rentals abound). Walking and using
the public transportation system are also good
earth-friendly options. And if you do need a
car, think about making use of www.flexcar
.com, a car-sharing program. Some car-rental
agencies offer hybrid vehicles, so be sure to ask
around. Also, take a look at www.craigslist
.com, an online bulletin board where you can
find regional rideshares (look under ‘community’); ie folks who are looking for people
to carpool and share the cost of gas. Similarly,
the adventurous can check www.couch
surfing.org, where you sleep on other member’s
couches – exchanging cultures, saving money
and using hopefully fewer resources.
In hotels, save energy by requesting that
your sheets and towels not be laundered
every day. Shut off lights, the TV and air-con
when you’re not in the room. And consider
not using those inefficient little travel-sized
sundries. Hostels are another option as their
high-density dormitories use less space and
energy. See the box, p180, for a list of hotels
that are making an effort.
Sustainable Seattle, a nonprofit organization, holds an annual awards ceremony
in November to recognize local businesses
that meet certain sustainability criteria; visit
www.sustainableseattle.org to learn more
about the program.
Our GreenDex (p227) at the end of this book
lists organizations and businesses that have
been recognized for taking extra measures to
help protect the environment, support local
charities, use local products or recycled materials, or promote regional culture, among
other positive practices. Here’s a sample:
Chaco Canyon Café (p131) Cafe serving all vegan, 90%
organic and almost half raw food; also an organic bakery.
FareStart Restaurant (p122) Profits support the FareStart
program, which provides intensive job training, housing
assistance and job placement for disadvantaged and
homeless people.
Foster Island Wetlands Trail (p100) A waterfront trail
that winds through marshlands and across to smaller
islands for bird-watching, swimming, fishing and kayaking.
Fremont Sunday Market (p86) A bustling marketplace
in the city’s quirkiest quadrant, there’s fresh produce, art
and junk.
Olympic Sculpture Park (p67) An excellent use of urban
space to present public art and sculpture.
Tillicum Village (p189) On Blake Island, tours include
traditional Indian salmon bake, dancing and a film about
Northwest Native Americans.
Tilth (p133) A certified-organic gourmet cafe in Wallingford.
Volunteer Park Conservatory (p80) A classic Victorian
greenhouse with five galleries representing different world
environments.
Washington Trails Association (p169) A nonprofit group
that organizes hiking trips, conservation efforts and
trail-building jaunts into local mountains.
Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American
Experience (p59) Museum devoted to the history of Asian
and Pacific culture and art in America.
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