FloraTech
291 East El Prado Court
Chandler, Arizona 85225
TEL 480.545.7000
FAX 480.892.3000
To find your local Floratech
Sales Representative, visit:
FloraTech
global partners sharing
Emollients
F o r m u l at i o n G u i d e
Quality Innovation Service
FloraTech has grown naturally, from the ground up. We started with a small
jojoba oil mill in the Sonoran Desert near Apache Junction, Arizona. Over the
past 30 years we have grown into a modern botanical derivative research
and manufacturing center in central Arizona. Our growth has been achieved
by providing you, our customer, with products and services that reflect our
industry leadership and dedication to Quality, Innovation and Service.
While the information provided here is
believed to be reliable, we do not guarantee
its accuracy. Customers are encouraged to
conduct their own tests with materials
described herein.
© 2007 International Flora Technologies, Ltd.
FLORATECH , FLORAESTERS , FLORASUN ,
FLORAMAC , FLORASOLVS , FLORABEADS ,
FLORASOMES , FLORAPEARLS ,
FLORASPHERES are registered trademarks of
International Flora Technologies, Ltd.
®
®
®
®
®
®
®
FloraTech Quality is managed in accordance with the ISO 9001 standards as certified by the British Standards Institute.
We are the first ISO 9001 certified jojoba oil manufacturer.
FloraTech Innovation is established by offering unique jojoba oil derivatives and specialty plant-derived cosmetic
ingredients.
FloraTech Service is delivered through an extraordinary international network of experienced cosmetic ingredient suppliers
supported by our analytical and cosmetic laboratories.
A
®
®
FloraTech’s Quality Policy:
Floratech will provide products and services to our customers and distributors that meet their requirements. We will continually
improve the quality of our products and services, the Floratech culture, customer satisfaction and our ability to offer innovative
new products.
James H. Brown
President
A quantitative comparison of
20 common emollient ingredients’
relative attributes.
B
C
At Floratech, we tested 20 different common emollients and measured 10 important attributes:
TABLE 1
Emollient
Spread
Slip
Occlusivity
Viscosity
OSI
22.10
84.50
1.09
62.0
7.6
OSI
with 10%
Iron Oxide
Fragrance
Fixative
2.00
0.33
Moisturization
Penetration
32.32
The purpose of this study is...
Refractive
Index
A
Almond Oil
6.8
1.462
B
Castor Oil
7.04
82.90
1.10
875.0
21.0
4.40
0.38
32.80
3.3
1.471
C
Decyl Oleate
29.40
84.00
1.00
15.8
12.0
0.15
0.53
33.59
4.4
1.450
D
Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate
34.60
78.70
1.05
11.1
92.5
68.60
1.12
28.40
5.6
1.439
E
Floraesters 15
*
30.10
82.30
1.01
31.5
95.0
63.70
0.67
34.81
5.1
1.458
F
Floraesters IPJ
*
30.60
82.90
0.64
20.2
95.0
60.70
0.76
33.77
4.7
1.452
G
Floramac 10
*
31.90
75.80
0.20
6.6
24.0
27.60
1.40
31.41
6.5
1.443
H
Florasun 90
*
19.60
76.60
0.76
73.5
52.0
16.90
0.82
35.97
2.6
1.462
I
High Oleic Safflower
17.20
82.60
1.17
67.0
12.0
3.20
0.80
35.14
6.0
1.463
J
Jojoba Oil
*
28.10
81.55
0.73
34.5
34.0
6.50
0.41
34.42
3.6
1.459
K
Macadamia Oil
*
23.20
83.10
0.66
61.0
72.0
41.90
0.60
35.61
8.2
1.461
L
Mineral Oil
15.40
78.60
1.45
120.7
66.0
29.35
0.23
28.63
1.4
1.451
M
Octyl Dodecanol
20.60
77.30
1.27
43.3
0.1
0.10
0.46
25.11
1.8
1.446
N
Octyl Stearate
35.10
86.40
0.95
13.3
68.0
35.90
1.45
30.19
4.4
1.447
O
Oleyl Alcohol
26.40
76.60
0.74
29.4
0.9
0.70
0.64
28.08
7.0
1.452
P
Oleyl Erucate
26.82
84.80
1.25
39.6
5.2
1.70
0.62
28.53
5.2
1.458
Q
Olive Oil
20.80
82.20
1.18
67.6
3.9
2.80
0.45
30.77
0.4
1.462
R
Rice Bran Oil
23.20
88.50
1.18
62.0
7.8
1.75
0.77
31.23
2.5
1.467
S
Soybean Oil
26.80
84.80
1.09
50.0
6.0
2.65
0.29
27.79
2.0
1.467
T
Squalane
29.99
77.80
1.43
26.3
26.3
16.10
1.00
28.58
5.8
1.444
Average
24.95
81.60
1.00
85.5
35.1
19.34
0.69
31.36
4.4
1.456
Minimum
7.04
75.80
0.20
6.6
0.1
0.10
0.23
25.11
0.4
1.439
Maximum
35.10
88.50
1.45
875.0
95.0
68.60
1.45
35.97
8.2
1.471
...to
make direct comparisons between twenty different common emollients. This study helps the
formulator to select emollients based on their relative attributes.
This study measures selected attributes of each emollient and displays the numerical results in
Table 1. These results generate charts 1 through 45, which simultaneously display two attributes
of all 20 emollient ingredients in graph form. This display allows the formulator to evaluate two
attributes of different ingredients simultaneously and to more easily select ingredients based on
these attributes. A key showing attribute combinations is given in Table 2. Information about
units, test methods, etc. are found on pages 8 and 9.
How to read the graphsEach graph displays a comparison of 2 attributes of each of the 20 chosen emollients. The
first attribute in the title is scaled along the horizontal (x) axis, and the second attribute in the
title is scaled along the vertical (y) axis. All 20 emollients are plotted according to the x and y
coordinates (see Table 1 for these respective values).
Both the x and y axes intersect at each other’s average value. The minimum and maximum limits
for each axis are determined by the minimum and maximum values measured among the 20
emollients. (This is why the graphs are not always perfectly symmetrical crosses). Each emollient
is shown by its corresponding letter as read from Table 1. Results are reported in positive
terms; for example, a high result for Slip means the material is more slippery and is graphically
represented toward the right (x) or upward (y).
*Available from Floratech - see page 11
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
read on
x axis
45
2
35
24
9
K
A
HIGH PENETRATION
O
T
P
C
x-axis
E
F
J
B
H
L
R
M
Q
Each letter represents its corresponding emollient
ingredient in Table 1. The letterʼs position indicates
its corresponding emollientʼs measured value for
the displayed attribute.
So, where
are the Numbers?
G
I
S
LOW PENETRATION
D
N
HIGH SPREAD
Spread
Slip
Occlusivity
Viscosity
Oxidative Stability (OSI)
OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
Fragrance Fixative
Moisturization
Refractive Index
read on
y axis
Spread vs Penetration
1
y-axis
vs
First attribute in title (i.e. “Spread”) is read on the x-axis (horizontal).
The second attribute is read on the y-axis (vertical).
LOW SPREAD
Table 2
Key to locating each
graph by number
Pe
ne
t
R e rati o
f ra n
M ctiv
e
oi
stu I nd
F r riz ex
ag at
io
r
OS ance n
Iw
Fi
Ox ith 1 xati
i d 0% ve
a
V i ti ve Iron
sc
o S t Ox
Oc sity abi l ide
i ty
cl u
(O
S l si vi
SI
ip
ty
)
Graph number as shown in Table 2.
The measured values
are all found in
Table 1. The
graphʼs purpose is
to provide spatial
illustration of
each emollientʼs
relative attributes.
For example, point P shows us that Oleyl Erucate
has a higher than average Spread value along with a
higher than average Penetration value.
3
For an example of how to read these graphs, please refer to graph 1.
Spread vs Refractive Index
2
Slip vs Penetration
10
Spread vs OSI
6
Slip vs OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
14
B
EF
R
K
D
D
E
S
O
I
G
K
H Q A
K
N
L
P J
T
E
I
D
O
F
C
T
N
M
G
Spread vs Moisturization
H
7
K
I
H
T
H
Q
D
O
S
P
J
O
8
TE
F
C
5
N
G
I
B
A
DN
O
O
K
E
Slip vs Viscosity
L
C
A
G
R
Q
H
Q I
J
T
O
L
M
J
O
M
G
S
Spread vs Slip
9
Spread vs OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
T
D
Slip vs Fragrance Fixative
F
L
M
P
N
L
B
C
K
I
Q
H
J
I
O
H
B
4
I
T
Q A R
M
S
OP
D
L
T
M
J
H
C
E
O
G
E
H
O
R
F
J
AS
C
T
F
E
G
B
D
D
P
S
R
QI
N
A
N
N
G
K
C
Slip vs Occlusivity
17
T
R
E
F
P
E
D
G
13
R
S
P
S
D
J
A
A
K
F
R
B
N
H
F
E
D
N
M
K
I
F
CE
C S
AP
Q
16
Slip vs Moisturization
12
B
S
B
D
P
R
J
T
G
I
J
M
Q
C
C
L
N
P
F
T
T
B
K
L
T
G
Spread vs Occlusivity
L
D
K
E
H
G
M
Q
E F
R
M
N
O
P
R
Slip vs OSI
15
A
K
L
R
A K
M
R
S
C AP
H
Spread vs Fragrance Fixative
H
QI B
D
I
Q
J
M
I
O M
Slip vs Refractive Index
11
G
P
OS
J
L
B
I
L
T
Q
Spread vs Viscosity
N
4
M
L
R
H
R
S
A
Q
L
G
S
CF
B
N
N
B
B
E
J
C
H
C
S
P
O
A R
Q
M
D
3
G
B
I
T
F
J
J
K
P
E
H
L
F
A
N
FK
P
K
C
M
J
L
Q
B
A
S
G
5
For an example of how to read these graphs, please refer to graph 1.
18
Occlusivity vs Penetration
22 Occlusivity vs OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
K
O
I
D
T
F
S
H
L
G
B
H
C
R
S
H
M
L
C
Occlusivity vs Refractive Index
S
H
A
F
E
K
E
N
T
R
T
D
T
G
B
C
Q
Q
M
32
Viscosity vs Fragrance Fixative
28
OSI vs Refractive Index
N
G
B
SR
L
C
D
Q A
T
I
H
R
Q
N
H
P
D
O
TL
S
E
F
E
O
J
D
NC
H
F
K
O
J
IR
E
C
Q
H
B
M
E
J
F
A
Q R
B
G
N
L
G
H
L
J
C
P
O S
H
T
S
Q
K
I
N
R
L
OSI vs Moisturization
33
K
J
M
D
C
F
P
B
A
S
L
E
F
E P
T
Q
A
I
T
D
N
T
G
D
A
G
M
F
L
C
M
Viscosity vs OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
29
N
O
K
S
K
G
O
B
T
Viscosity vs Penetration
25
P
E
H
C
N C D
G
Occlusivity vs Fragrance Fixative
R I
F
R
PM
J
O
M
I
A
S
K
Q
K
J
P
G
6
H
L
B
A
21
J
R
S
I
E
E
F
N
B
L
S
R
Q P
M
B
H
D
C
P
O
T
P
I
Occlusivity vs Viscosity
24
G
I
M
A
S
O
J
A
N
D
Occlusivity vs Moisturization
O
G
J
M
G
K
A
L
C
OSI vs Penetration
I
J
L
M
31
B
N
R
A Q
S
P
H
CF
P
O
F
Viscosity vs Moisturization
ED
K
Q
I
O
27
H
K
C
R
I
J
B
T
D
Occlusivity vs OSI
23
B
T
G
L
M
G
B
S
IQ
A
R PM
O
O
F
N
T
J
Q
20
L
N
J
J
K
N
EJ P
N C
K
E
B
R
I
A Q H
K
K
P
E
F
D
A
G
F
Viscosity vs OSI
30
E
F
19
Viscosity vs Refractive Index
26
D
O
PM S
R IQ
A
T
L
D
B
M
7
For an example of how to read these graphs, please refer to graph 1.
37 OSI with 10% Iron Oxide vs Refractive Index
OSI vs Fragrance Fixative
34
Fragrance Fixative vs Penetration
40
Moisturization vs Penetration
43
K
N
G
D
H
F
O P
K
C
MQ
E
L
I
F
C
K
G
K
J
L
T
P E
O
N
Fragrance Fixative vs Moisturization
42
OSI with 10% Iron Oxide vs Fragrance Fixative
D
P
N
C
R
MS
D
F
E
A
O
F
C
T
K
I
E
G
B
D
J
C
M Q
BJ
A
S
L
Q
Slip –
F
K
P
E
J
E
L
P
O
S
T
D
L
in vitro, percentage - the portion of standard P5 filter paper over which 20 drops of the test
emollient will spread in 10 minutes. Larger values represent higher spread.
in vitro, degrees - inclination angle from vertical at which a standard weight, lubricated by test
emollient, will begin to slide on a standard glass plane. Larger values represent higher slip.
in vitro - the inverse of the rate at which water transpires through an area of standard filter
paper bearing film of test emollient. Larger values represent higher occlusivity.
Viscosity –
in vitro, poise - the force needed to move a standard spindle through the test emollient at
constant temperature and velocity. Larger values represent higher viscosity.
in vitro, hours - identical to OSI, in the presence of 10% untreated Iron Oxide pigment.
Fragrance Fixative –
Moisturization –
Penetration –
Refractive Index –
R
S
L
Q
M
Oxidative Stability (OSI) –
B
H
M
Occlusivity –
OSI with 10% Iron Oxides –
C
F
DEFINITIONS
Spread –
N
N
H
OP
H
I
T
G
R
Q
A
G
T
RI
Refractive Index vs Penetration
45
H
K
N
G
D
D
J
OA
N
M
G
M
H
F
C
T
T
39
K
J E
O L
F
C
D
I
A
P
M
G
B
Q
J
B
R
H
N
K
8
I
Q
A
P
O
S
OSI with 10% Iron Oxide vs Penetration
I
S
R
L
H
T
QS
I
M O PA R C
S
L
G
Moisturization vs Refractive Index
B
B
R
Q
N
44
B
E
J
A
L
Q
Fragrance Fixative vs Refractive Index
41
H
R
Q
K
J
S
M
G
38 OSI with 10% Iron Oxide vs Moisturization
E
F
C
N
B
M
D
E
F
N
R H
L
D
I
DT
P
D
J
S
N
H
36
B
T
A
G
F
C
F
L
T
OSI vs OSI with 10% Iron Oxide
35
P E
K
M
J
B
A
S
H
O
C
E
O
G
I
J
P
O
A
RS
I
AQ
T
R I
K
B
in vitro, hours - the number of hours before the test emollient begins rapid oxidation under
standard test conditions. Larger values represent higher oxidative stability.
in vitro, proportion (normalized). The proportion of Limonene fragrance remaining in the
test emollient after 5 hours at 45°C, relative to squalane, as measured by Gas
Chromatography. Larger values represent higher fragrance fixating ability.
in vivo, unitless - is the Corneometer® value divided by the 24 hour TEWL value,
proportional to (among others) water volume in the skin, divided by rate of water loss
through transpiration through skin treated with test emollient. Larger values represent
greater skin moisturization.
in vivo, unitless - results are inversely proportional to the amount of test emollient
remaining on the skin surface, 3 hours after application. Measurements taken by
Sebumeter®. Larger values represent higher penetration.
in vitro, unitless - measured by refractometer. Higher refractive index generally imparts
more gloss.
9
rs
ipj
Flo
r
Jojo aes
ba ters
oil
f l o - Refin
m a r a m ed
cad ac
am
ia o
flo
il ram
Ref
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10
flo
ras
un
90
TRADE NAME
ste
INCI NAME
rae
Flo
Flo
rae
ste
rs
15
S o lu b i l i t y Data
Acetone
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Castor Oil
Cyclomethicone
Decyl Glucoside
Decyl Oleate
Dimethicone
Ethyl Acetate
Ethyl Alcohol
Jojoba Esters
Floraesters 15
Isopropyl Palmitate
Lanolin Oil
Mineral Oil
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Oleyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 20
CAS
EINECS
JCIC
PACKAGING
61789-91-1
307-351-1
520987
180 kg drum (standard)
16 kg (available)
Floraesters IPJ
181314-46-5
*
MHW Approved
180 kg drum (standard)
16 kg (available)
Simmondsia
Chinesis
(Jojoba) Seed Oil
Floraesters Jojoba Oil
- Refined
61789-91-1
289-964-3
520987
180 kg drum (standard)
16 kg (available)
Macadamia
Integrifolia Seed Oil
Floramac Macadamia Oil
- Refined
159518-86-2
273-313-5
521074
190 kg drum (standard)
17 kg (available)
Ethyl
Macadamiate
Floramac 10
214495-31-5
285-205-5
102246
190 kg drum (standard)
17 kg (available)
Helianthus Annuus
(Sunflower) Oil
Florasun 90
8001-21-6
232-273-9
520924
190 kg drum (standard)
17 kg (available)
Isopropyl Jojobate
(&) Jojoba Alcohol
(&) Jojoba Esters
Glycerine
Isononyl Isononanoate
Isopropyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Myristate
All Floratech
Emollients are:
* 292-963-0 (&) 268-107-7 (&) 307-351-1
•
Globally Approved
•
Bio/plant-based
•
Non-GMO
•
Non-BSE
•
No trans-fatty acids
Find your local
Floratech representative
at www.floratech.com
Polysorbate 80
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30% solution
Sorbitol
Sunflower Oil
Water
= Soluble
10
= Partially Soluble
ALL TESTS 50:50 at 25oC
= Insoluble
11