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FRAGRANCE TERMINOLOGY
Aa
Absolute
A flower absolute is the highly concentrated oil of a flower free of alcohol insoluble
matter such as waxes. Absolutes are usually liquid and, in some cases, solid or semisolid. Absolutes are generally prepared from a “concentrate” from which insoluble
matter has been separated by the use of alcohol. The alcohol solution is cooled and
filtered to remove all traces of waxes and other insolubles, and the absolute oil is
isolated.
Accord
A blend of raw materials so balanced that no individual one is immediately identifiable.
Acid
A pungent odor usually with “metallic” sensations in the back of the nose. Acidity is
associated also with the sense of taste because the metallic notes arise in an area close
to the taste buds.
After Shave Lotion
In alcoholic solution, after shave lotions have one of the lightest concentrations
of fragrance, sometimes containing active ingredients. In the past, the fragrance
concentration was 1%, but can now rise to 5% or more.
Aldehydes
A very important series of perfume ingredients: aromatic aldehydes and aliphatic
aldehydes. They have a powerful, fatty odor which, upon dilution, becomes quite
different. Although used only in low concentrations, their introduction in a perfume
formula requires great skill and care and contributes much to the finished blend. The
development of aldehydes in the early 1920’s was one of the major advancements in
fragrance. Their use gives sparkle and brilliance to compounds which had previously
been flatter, particularly in the top note. The first fragrance to include them was
“Chanel No. 5”. Although the use was not planned at the time, it could be called a
happy accident for all perfumery history.
Ambergris
This most legendary product was a valued article of trade in early civilization when
there were many different beliefs about its origin and its power. Today we know that
ambergris is produced by the sperm whale as a result of its preference for cuttle
fish. Apparently, the latter’s beak irritates the stomach of the whale and around this
irritation a growth or calculus emerges; the beginning of ambergris. The best quality
ambergris is gray in color, but there are also brown, white and black varieties. Alcoholic
solutions of ambergris are aged for long periods before being used as a fixative and to
add smoothness to a finished extract.
Ambers
These are a series of fixing agents which are solid, semi-solid or liquid. They generally
contain musk, civit, castor, etc., with large amounts of labdanum. Usually they are
described as heavy, full-bodied, powdery and warm.
Animalic Notes
Animalic notes give life and warmth to a fragrance. Due to ethical reasons all animalic
notes are now synthetically derived.
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Aromatic Notes
The aromatic family contains all the dry herb products. Most of them are used in
cooking, except for lavender which has been used as potpourri for centuries. Aromatic
notes are mostly used in masculine fragrances.
Bb
Balance
A fragrance whose components have been so carefully blended together that no single
aromatic body or effect is readily identifiable is said to be “in balance”. In creating a
blend, the perfumer always seeks a perfectly balanced composition. In evaluating a
fragrance, balance is one of the main criteria of judgment.
Balsam
Balsams are natural, very viscous and sticky substances exuded from trees either
spontaneously or through an incision made in the bark. A “balsamic” quality is best
described as the combined sweetness and woodiness associated with fresh-cut, wellseasoned, non coniferous wood such as maple. The balsamic effect is frequently found
in oriental fragrances. Among the essential oils, Balsam of Tolu or Balsam of Peru are
used. There are several synthetic chemicals which also have a balsamic character.
Base
Many perfumes are built upon a base that is a blend of aromatic chemicals and
natural oils. This base is sometimes said to form the “heart” or basic character of the
composition. Base notes are products of low volatility and high tenacity.
Bitter
An effect described as a metallic “greenness” completely devoid of any sweetness.
This effect is difficult to describe, but it can be well illustrated by the oil of galbanum.
Blend
Any harmonious mixture of fragrance materials.
Blotter
The evaluation of a perfume is accomplished by smelling it on a blotter; a small piece of
odor-free paper. Blotters are allowed to stand for varying periods of time so that the
materials with which they have been impregnated can be evaluated during the stages
of the evaporation (the dry-down period).
Body
The opposite of “thin”. Body in perfumery is analogous to a symphony orchestra playing to the full complement of instruments. The expression, “this fragrance is too thin,
it needs to be bodied”, is often heard in perfume evaluation, implies that aromatic
materials such as one or more of the essential floral oils should be added to produce
additional overtones and color.
Bouquet
Originally a harmonious combination of two or more floral notes. The term today
encompasses other fragrance complexes besides floral notes. Therefore, a “bouquet”
is a harmonious combination of two or more fragrance complexes.
Cc
Camphoraceous
An odor resembling camphor to some degree. The essential oil, spike lavender, is a
good example of a common aromatic material with a champoraceous note.
Chemical
An adjective used to describe either a complex fragrance or a single aromatic product
that has an odor that cannot be utilized. A compound with too few aromatic materials
combined in an improper balance often possesses an odor best described as “chemical”.
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Chypre
An intriguing mossy-woody complex with a characteristic, sweet-citrus top note
frequently combined with floral notes. The key materials in this accord are bergamot,
oakmoss and amber.
Citrus Oils
Among the most valuable oils used are those obtained from fruits such as orange,
lemon, lime, tangerine, mandarin and bergamot. They impart freshness to fragrances.
Cloying
An odor that satiates the senses beyond a natural desire, setting up irritability or a
desire to escape, usually an excessive sweetness.
Cologne
A term derived from the French name for the German city of Cologne, where this
product was allegedly first popularized. The terms cologne and toilet water are often
used interchangeably although they are historically different. Toilet water is an alcohol
diluted version of perfume extract designed to be used lavishly. Cologne for men is
parallel to today’s toilet water in perfume oil concentration.
Composition
Sometimes preferred to the chemical synonym “formula” because it is more descriptive
of the artistry involved in the creation of a fragrance oil and borrowing again from the
music world.
Concrete
During the process of extraction, flowers are subject to solvents of various types
by which the oils are removed. When the solvents have evaporated or have been
removed, there remains a very concentrated oil known as a “concrete”. The concrete
is usually a solid, waxy substance representing the closest odor duplication of the
flower from which it was derived. Since the perfumer cannot use the concrete as such,
it is further processed into absolutes (see Absolute).
Dd
Depth
Diffusion
Distillation
A quality achieved by the incorporation of certain “low-toned” chemicals in a
composition.
A fragrance that quickly spreads through an area is called “diffusive”. It appears to
radiate from the wearer and permeates the environment.
One of the oldest methods of separating oils from flowers, and is still widely used.
There are several distillation methods, all having in common the use of heat. In each
case, the flower or other source of oil is charged into a still, and heat is applied to
separate the oil. One type involves direct contact between the plant material and
boiling water. In another type, the heat source is steam which is blown through the
flowers. During the distillation process, the steam and volatile oils rise and pass through
a condenser where the vapors are converted again to their liquid state. The water and
oil are collected, and as they separate, the oil is removed from the top.
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Dry Down
The final phase of a fragrance – the lingering notes that stay on the skin for several
hours after the fragrance has been applied.To evaluate a fragrance, the top of a smelling
blotter is dipped into the liquid and checked during the various stages of evaporation.
The test period may vary from a few hours to several days during which the lasting
power of the compound is studied. In evaluation the dry down is as important as the
top note. Woody notes (vetiver, sandalwood), oakmoss, vanilla and amber can all be
components of the dry down.
Ee
Earthy
The unique aroma of freshly turned soil.
Enfleurage
This is an ancient process of extracting flower oils. Although rather expensive and
outmoded, it is still used for certain flowers because of the outstanding results obtained.
Essential Oils
A volatile oil that is obtained from a specific botanical.The oil is odorous with fragrance
characteristics reminiscent of those of the parent plant or flower. It can be obtained
from petals, roots, fruit peels, bark, seeds or wood.
Evaporation
The process of changing from a liquid to vapor.
Expression
This is the process by which many of the citrus oils are produced. In the hand or
“sponge” method, the pulp is separated from the rind and the peels are squeezed by
the workers who press them against a sponge that absorbs the oil. When the sponge
has reached its full capacity, it is squeezed into containers as a mixture of oil and
watery juice that separates on standing into 2 layers, the upper one being the citrus
oil. The same oil can be obtained mechanically through simple exertion of pressure on
the fruit.
This term can be used to describe 2 different terms. It is generally accepted today
as referring to an alcoholic solution of fragrance oil or “perfume” as it is commonly
known.“Extract” is also used to describe a concentrated solvent. The resulting solution
is concentrated by allowing the solvent to evaporate.
Extract
Extraits
This French term is widely used in perfumery today, and is synonymous with “extract”.
It also refers to the alcoholic solution of the odorous part of a pomade.
Extraction
This is a process for obtaining natural oils by means of tanks and solvents and is used
for certain flowers and plants where the heat of the steam distillation might damage
or destroy the odorous substances of where the yield of oil is rather small. In one
process, the tank is stationary and the solvent flows over the flowers or other natural
matter. The other process involves the use of a revolving unit inside that the flowers
move through the solvent. After removal of the solvent, alcohol is agitated through the
remaining mixture of waxes and oils and the former is removed by chilling and filtering.
The alcohol and oil mixture is then brought to the boiling point, the alcohol filtered off,
and the concrete allowed to remain for recovery. The concrete, previously defined, is
the pure essence in solid form from which an absolute is obtained.
Ff
Fixation
This term describes the property of a fragrance to prolong odor life and
produces a continuity of odor.
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Fixative
A material incorporated into a fragrance oil for the purpose of:
1.) Retarding the volatilization of the fragrance oil when it is applied to a surface to
increase its substantivity.
2.) Producing a comparatively uniform volatilization of the fragrance oil so that the
fragrance does not rapidly change as it evaporates. Animal products, natural gums, high
boiling essential oils (such as vetiver) and high boiling point chemicals (such as benzyl
salicylate) are good examples of fixatives existing in the various classes of aromatic
materials. Most fixatives have, to some degree, an odor of their own which must be
taken into account when creating a fragrance.
Flat
Describes a fragrance that is lacking distinction. A fragrance is also said to go “flat”
when it is dulled by an excessive addition of certain chemicals.
A fragrance reminiscent of a flower. A number of common aromatic chemicals such as
heliotrope, benzylacetate, rhodinal and anisic aldehyde are described as “flowery. This
flowery effect can also be obtained from such materials as civet, indole and skatole.
The floweriness of these aromatic chemicals is perceivable only when these products
are smelled in a highly diluted form.
A mossy, lavender-hay complex with a bergamot-citrus top note.
Flowery
Fougere
Fragrance
A word used as an all-embracing term to describe any pleasant odor. Its use and
meaning are almost synonymous with perfume. However, the perfumer’s “extract” is
what the layman thinks of perfume.
Fragrance Oil
A blend of various aromatic materials (natural or synthetic) that creates a definite
“fragrance” effect. The components may be liquid, resins or solids, but the completed
fragrance oil is always a liquid. A fragrance oil may be diluted with alcohol to produce
an extract or cologne or may be incorporated into a finished product (candle, lotion,
soap, etc.).
Fresh
A highly subjective term applied to fragrances that have a light, sparkling top note. This
effect is often achieved by using citrus notes, although not exclusively.
Full-bodied
A well-rounded fragrance that possesses depth.
Gg
Green
Green materials are the fresh herbaceous and green foliage notes and relate to living
nature. A note reminiscent of fresh cut grass, leaves and vines. Among the essential
oils, violet leaf absolute is an outstanding example of this green note. The aromatic
chemical methyl heptine carbonate is a synthetic counterpart of this same violet leaf
effect.
Hh
Harsh
A word descriptive of a crude, often pungent odor.
Heady
Exhilarating, sparkling, stimulating. This quality would be comparable to the exciting
taste and effervescence of a glass of champagne. Headiness in a fragrance is much
sought after by the creative perfumer, but it is difficult to achieve because of the very
limited number of materials available for this purpose.
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Heavy
A forceful and intense effect. May also relate to the time and effort required to perceive
and recognize an odor. An overabundance of heaviness dulls or deadens a fragrance;
an overabundance of lightness thins and acidifies a fragrance.
Ii
IFRA
The International Fragrance Association is a non-profit organization sponsored by the
Perfumery Trade Association of 13 countries in Europe, America, Asia and Australia.
IFRA has issued a “Code of Practice for the Fragrance Industry” that includes
recommendations on the use limitation of certain ingredients.This Code of Practice is
based on information relative to the safety of fragrance ingredients produced by the
Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), as well as proprietary data and any
other information brought to IFRA’s attention.The implementation of IFRA guidelines,
which are constantly being updated is expected to be carried out by individual fragrance
supply companies on a voluntary basis.
Infusion (Tincture)
A solution obtained by prolonged contact with alcohol. Animal products and some
plant materials are usually treated in this manner.
Isolates are materials that are used in perfumery and flavors. They are derived from
natural materials by several methods, the most important being chemical isolation: that
is, the extraction through the use of chemical reagents.
Isolate
Ll
Lasting
The ability of a fragrance to retain its character over a given period of time.
Leather
Any fragrance conveying the dominant characteristics of tanned leather. This is actually
a sweet pungent smokiness such as would result from blending of methyl ionone
and oil of birch tar. The best single chemical with a unique leather characteristic is
paratertiary betyl penol. In spite of its odd quality, the leather (French cuir) effect plays
an important part in the background of complex florals as a contrasting medium to
break up monotony.
Lift
The impact of a fragrance, either out of the bottle on in application. Highly diffusive
fragrances exhibit good lift.
An aromatic material is said to have a “light” odor when it is easily and quickly
recognizable. Any of the essential citrus oils (bergamot and lemon in particular) are
light. Lightness is usually found in material having relatively low boiling points (high
volatility) or in products of ester structure.
Lightness
Mm
Maceration
This process is quite similar to enfleurage. In the latter, cold fats are used, while in
maceration the fats are heated. The flowers are immersed, the cells containing the
odoriferous oils are ruptured, and the oils are absorbed by the fats. To obtain the
pomade, the flowers are removed from the fats and fresh flowers are mixed in over
and over again until the fats are completely saturated with flower oil.
Middle Notes
Middle notes, which are perceived after the first impact of the top notes have lessened,
are made up of products of intermediate volatility and tenacity. Most floral notes,
some green notes and some woody tonalities fall into this category.
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Modern
Mossy
Musk
A subjective word loosely used to describe fragrance compositions regarded as highly
novel and daring.
Typical notes reminiscent of forest depths.
For many centuries, musk (the secretion of the musk deer) has been prized for its value
in perfumery. The pouch containing pod-like grains that are soft and light colored.
From these the perfumer prepared a tincture that is used as a fixative. Today, only
synthetic musks are used. These include musk ambrette, musk zylol, and musk ketone.
Research chemists are continuously developing newer and more valuable musk-like
chemicals for use by the perfumer.
Oo
Oriental
A blend of fragrance complexes culminating in an intense, heavy, full-bodied fragrance.
Oriental notes are used to give warmth and sensuality to a fragrance. It can include
notes of vanilla, balsam, tobacco, powdery, and amber.
Pp
Perfume Types
Much has been written about the classification of fragrances, but no one method is
enjoying general acceptance. However, perfumes have been divided up into basic types
such as citrus, single floral, floral bouquet, flowery aldehydic, green, chypre and oriental.
Pigment
A series of colors used for tinting of products, such as candles and cosmetics.
Pomade
A combination of fat and oil obtained during the enfleurage and maceration processes
previously described.
A term used to describe toilet powders of all types including various specialties such
as antiperspirant powders, baby talc, etc. Basically a powder consists of talc or corn
starch blended with other materials as a diluent of cosmetic or medical nature and
perfumed with fragrance oil.
Powdery applies to fragrances having considerable sweet and musky tones with a dry,
“dusty” effect on the nose. Compositions having this powdery note contain mixtures
of vanilla, coumarin heliotropine, musk xylol, musk ketone or musk ambrette. This
special effect can be introduced into the background of existing fragrances to ensure
their satisfactory performance in powder mediums.
Powder
Powdery
Rr
Rich
Used in perfumery to describe fullness.A rich perfume is comparable to the harmonious
effect of a full orchestra. One of the best examples of richness in a single aromatic
material is natural jasmine absolute. Although jasmine absolute is costly, it is widely
used because of the inimitable touch of richness it adds to any fragrance.
RIFM
The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials is an independent non-profit organization
sponsored by approximately 60 fragrance supply houses in the USA, Europe and Japan.
Its principal function has been to systematically carry out and assess the results of
safety evaluation tests on individual fragrance ingredients. This assessment has been
made by a panel of distinguished experts in different fields of toxicology who have
advised the membership of RIFM of the presence of a potential adverse property of
a particular ingredient. RIFM publishes monographs summarizing the results of RIFM
sponsored safety testing and any other relevant literature. No guidelines on
usage-restriction recommendations are issued by RIFM.
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Rounding Out
Used to describe the process of adding small quantities of perfume ingredients as the
finishing touches to a fragrance.
Ss
Sharp
Sophisticated
Spice Blend
Spicy
Stability
A “penetrating” quality found in any of the aliphatic aldehydes used in perfumery.
A combination of loud, coarse, aromatic chemicals in a cheap fragrance occasionally
produces a mildly penetrating effect that can be classified as sharp.
An abstract, creative interpretation.
Any fragrance combination falling into either a floral spice category such as carnation
or having herbal spice characteristics.
A word descriptive of a pungent or piquant fragrance. Oil of cloves or oil of cinnamon
are classic examples of spiciness in single aromatic materials. In the flower group,
carnation, oil of lavender may be described as having spicy nuances.
Strength
The shelf life of perfumes and perfume materials is varied. Some raw materials like
aldehydes and citrus oils, for example, have a very short life; usually a few months. While
others, such as patchouli, have a longer life; up to 2 to 3 years.The shelf life of fragrance
compounds consequently depends on their type and components. Aldehydic blends
may start turning bad after a few months unless the conditions of light, temperature
and storage are carefully controlled.
The relative intensity of a fragrance impression.
Substantivity
The relative strength and durability of fragrance performance over time.
Sweet
A fragrance effect classically illustrated by the rose. The rose effect is constantly used
to sweeten fragrances during the course of their creation. The rose is to the perfumer
what sugar is to the chef.
Tt
Thin
A fragrance lacking in the overtones necessary to give it “color” or depth is sometimes
described as being “thin”. Thin and sharp are sometimes related in meaning. In practical
perfumery, this thin effect is encountered in modern aldehydic fragrances when the
aldehydes have not been given enough floral coverage to soften their impact and in
compositions based on too few components.
Tincture
A solution obtained by prolonged contact with alcohol. Animal products and some
plant materials are usually treated in this manner.
Tonality
The dominant note or theme of a fragrance.
Top Note
This term describes the immediate effect of a fragrance upon the sense of smell. This
expression is commonly used in connection with the olfactory impact of a fragrance
upon application to the skin. Careful consideration of this top note is highly important
in the design of a fragrance since the initial sales appeal may be totally dependent upon
its quality. Physically, the top note is the most volatile material in the composition of
the fragrance oil, and it is often deliberately accentuated by the use of highly volatile
chemicals. Citrus notes such as bergamot, orange flower, petitgrain are all very volatile
chemicals that are perceived in the top note of a fragrance.
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Uu, Vv, Ww
Undertone
The subtle characteristics of the fragrance background.
Volatile
The rate of evaporation and the property of being freely diffused in the atmosphere.
Warm
Used to describe an odor that has a stimulating effect upon the imagination and upon
the senses. It is difficult to describe; it has to be felt.
Woody
A fragrance effect generally associated with the aroma of freshly cut, dry, oriental
woody or fibrous root, as illustrated respectively by the essential oil of sandalwood
or vetiver. Woody is a term having an entirely different meaning to the layman than it
does to the perfumer, and should not be confused with “woodsy” which implies the
green effect of a forest.
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