100
43
500
%
75 More than 100 countries produce cotton globally
There are 43 species of cotton in the world
In an average year, Australia’s cotton growers
produce enough cotton to clothe 500 million people
American ‘paper’ money is a blend of 75% cotton
and 25% linen
INTERESTING
COTTON FACTS
The word ‘cotton’ is derived from ‘qutun’ or ‘kutun’, an Arabic word
used to describe any fine textile
In an average year, Australia’s cotton growers produce enough
cotton to clothe 500 million people
Cotton is produced in more than 100 countries in the world, but
six of them – China, India, Pakistan, USA, Brazil and Uzbekistan
– contribute about 80% of production
Cotton and its by-products are used in the production of a huge
range of products including bank notes, margarine, rubber and
medical supplies
There are 43 species of cotton in the world and some cotton
grows on trees
Australia and Egypt produce the highest quality cottons in
the world
The fibre from one 227kg cotton bale can produce 215 pairs of
jeans, 250 single bed sheets, 1,200 t-shirts, 2,100 pairs of boxer
shorts, 3,000 nappies, 4,300 pairs of socks or 680,000
cotton balls
Cotton can absorb up to 27 times its own weight in water
The cotton plant requires about 180 – 200 days from planting to
full maturity ready for harvest
Cotton is a unique crop in that it is both a food and a fibre
China is the world’s largest cotton importer and is also the
biggest producer
Chambray is a type of cotton popularly used in the manufacture
of blue work shirts, and is where we get the term “blue-collar”
© Cotton Australia 2016. This material is licensed under a Creative Commons
Attribution-Non Commercial 4.0 International License (CC BY CC BY-NC 4)
INTERESTING
COTTON FACTS
Cotton dates from at least 7,000 years ago making it one of the
world’s oldest known fibres
Archaeologists found 5,000 year old cotton fabric at Mohenjo
Daro, an ancient town in the Indus River Valley of West Pakistan
Ancient Greek and Roman civilisations used cotton for awnings
and sails as well as clothing
The Aztec civilisation used naturally coloured brown cotton as a
principal form of payment
Denim fabric was initially produced in Nimes, France and denim
derives its name from ‘serge de Nimes’ (‘fabric of Nimes’)
In the 16th Century, sailors from the Italian port city, Genoa,
began to wear denim
Naturally coloured cotton varieties in South America have come
in shades of red, yellow, beige, chocolate, pink, purple, green,
striped like a tiger and even spotted like a leopard
Ancient Peruvians made fishing nets and lines from darker
shades of cotton to be less visible to fish
The first light bulb manufactured by Thomas Edison in the late
1800s used a cotton thread filament
American ‘paper’ money is a blend of 75% cotton and 25% linen
227
%
50
%
40
%
10
An Australian cotton bale weighs 227kg
Cottonseed represents approximately 50% of
ginned cotton’s weight
Cotton fibre represents 40% of ginned
cotton’s weight
Trash represents the remaining 10% of ginned
cotton’s weight and is made up of mostly leaves
and sticks
PROCESSING, EXPORTING
AND MARKETING
Processing
On the farm, mechanically harvested cotton is pressed into large
round modules or large rectangular, truck-sized blocks
The modules are then transported to a cotton gin (short for engin) for the first stage of processing
Cotton gins are factories that separate cottonseed and trash from
the lint (raw cotton fibre)
Australia’s cotton gins are located in regional areas where the
cotton is grown to reduce transport costs
Ginning is done in a series of stages using large, fast moving
mechanical saws that “strip” the cotton lint from the seeds and
blowers to remove as much trash as possible
The white fluffy lint is then pressed into cotton bales using a bale
press, and covered with bale covers made from a cotton knit
fabric to minimise contamination
A cotton gin can produce 60-100 cotton bales an hour
An Australian cotton bale weighs 227kg (500 pounds)
Cottonseed represents approximately 50% of ginned
cotton’s weight
Cotton fibre represents 40% of ginned cotton’s weight
Trash represents the remaining 10% of ginned cotton’s weight
and is made up of mostly leaves and sticks
The trash is sometimes used in products that clean up oil spills
and also in ethanol manufacturing
IMAGE: CHLOE BLATCHFORD
PROCESSING, EXPORTING
AND MARKETING
Classing
Following the ginning process, samples of cotton are collected
from each bale for classing
Most of the Australian cotton crop is spun and woven overseas
Promotion
Cotton classing sorts the fibre into different quality based grades.
The better the fibre quality, the higher the grade and the more the
grower is paid for the cotton
Cotton Australia’s ‘Cotton to Market’ program was established
to create confidence to use cotton in the textile supply chain,
position Australian cotton in a future that demands responsiblyproduced cotton and create value for Australia’s cotton growers
There are many factors in cotton classing that determine the
grade including colour, staple length, fibre strength, micronaire,
neps (or knottiness), stickiness and trash content
Cotton Australia promotes Australian cotton through three
main programs:
Marketing
Australia enjoys an open, sophisticated and highly competitive
marketing system whereby growers forward sell their crops
directly to independent marketing companies
The Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA) represents
these companies and keeps an update-to-date list of their
members at www.austcottonshippers.com.au
These companies then “on sell” the cotton into overseas markets,
and pay the grower
Exporting
Once the cotton bales are ginned, pressed and containerised,
they are loaded on to trucks and trains and sent to port for
shipping, mostly to overseas markets
The main ports for Australian cotton are in Brisbane and Sydney,
with some cotton shipped from Melbourne
- Cotton LEADS™ is a program that is committed to
responsible cotton production and is founded on core
principles that are consistent with sustainability, the use
of best practices and traceability in the supply chain. This
joint program, initiated by the Australia and the US cotton
industries, offers manufacturers, brands and retailers a reliable
cotton supply chain and confidence that their raw material is
responsibly produced
and identified
- The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) operates as a not-for-profit
organisation. BCI brings together farmers, ginners, traders,
spinners, retailers, brands and grassroots organisations in
a unique global community committed to developing Better
Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.
- Australian Cotton Story: direct engagement helps share
our story with Australian and international brands, retailers,
manufacturers and designers
The cotton bales are warehoused, and once they’re sold and
ready to be shipped are loaded into large shipping containers
Internationally, there are a number of additional cotton promotion
programs, each one contributing to the global effort to position
cotton as a fibre of choice in the world textile market:
The main customers for Australian cotton are spinning mills
located in south east Asia – China is Australia’s largest buyer
of cotton
- Cotton Made in Africa is run by the Aid by Trade Foundation,
and follows an innovative approach in development
cooperation and ‘social business’ principles.
Spinning and weaving
- Fairtrade Cotton is about better prices, decent working
conditions, local sustainability, and fair terms of trade for
farmers and workers in the developing world. Fairtrade
provides a certification system and product labels
(FAIRTRADE Mark) to connect consumers and producers.
When the cotton bales arrive at the spinning mills, they are first
opened and checked for contamination
Bales of cotton are put into a blower to separate all the fibres, and
are then combed, carded and spun into yarn
This yarn is then woven or knitted into fabric
Dyeing can occur at either yarn or fabric stage, and more rarely
the cotton fibre itself can be dyed (to make melange fabrics)
This fabric can then be sewn into all sorts of cotton products
including clothing and industrial products like tarpaulins and rope
- Organic Exchange is a not-for-profit organisation focused
on creating environmental and social benefits through the
expansion of organic agriculture. The organisation’s cotton
project focuses on transitioning 10% of the world’s supply and
demand of cotton to organic cotton within 10 years.
31
1.9
#1
%
24
%
Cotton accounts for about 31% of worldwide fibre
production (source: Australian Grown Cotton
Sustainability Report, 2014)
Australia produced 1.9 million bales of cotton in the
2014/15 season
In the last decade, Asia has become the number one
destination for cotton imports
India accouned for approximately 24% of global
cotton production in 2013/14
WORLD COTTON
MARKET
World production
More than 100 countries in the world grow cotton
(source: ICAC 2012)
Cotton accounts for about 31% of worldwide fibre production
(source: Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, 2014)
The global 20 year average (1993/94 to 2013/14) annual planted
area is 33 million hectares of cotton (source: Bremen Cotton
Exchange, 2014) producing about 26 million tonnes of lint
each year
Average world cotton yields reached 780 kilograms of lint per
hectare in 2013/14, up markedly from 230 kilograms of lint per
hectare in the 1950s (source: Bremen Cotton Exchange 2014)
Major cotton producing countries in 2014/15
China: 33.0 million bales
India: 27.0 million bales
United States: 18.0 million bales
Pakistan: 10.3 million bales
Brazil: 9.3 million bales
Uzbekistan: 4.6 million bales
Turkey: 2.8 million bales
Australia: 1.9 million bales
Turkmenistan: 1.6 million bales
Greece: 1.4 million bales
(source: Bremen Cotton Exchange, 2014)
WORLD COTTON
MARKET
Supply and distribution
(source: Bremen Cotton Exchange 2014 - unless otherwise stated)
Production (million tonnes):
26.8 in 2012/13 (estimated)
25.7 in 2013/14 (projected)
25.4 in 2014/15 (projected)
Consumption (million tonnes):
23.3 in 2012/13 (estimated)
23.6 in 2013/14 (projected)
24.5 in 2014/15 (projected)
World consumption of textile fibres is mainly determined by
population, consumer spending, which in turn depends on world
economic growth, and prices (source: ICAC 2007)
India accounted for approximately 24% of global cotton
production in 2013/14
In the last decade, Asia has become the number one destination
for cotton imports
The major importers of cotton in 2013/14 were China,
Bangladesh, Indonesia and Turkey
About 30% of the world’s consumption of cotton fibre crosses
international borders before processing, a larger share than for
wheat, corn, soybeans, or rice. Through trade in yarn, fabric, and
clothing, much of the world’s cotton again crosses international
borders at least once more before reaching the final consumer
(source: USDA 2012)
Global value of cotton
Cotton production and processing play an economic important in
many cotton growing countries, including developing countries.
Production of cotton and the subsequent exportation of lint and
cotton products provide a source of export income
In some countries that produce no cotton, the importation and
processing of lint for domestic consumption or re-exportation as
manufactured goods plays a vital economic role
The projected price for 2014/15 is 159 US cents/kg. The world
cotton market is estimated at USD $77 billion for 2014/15 (or $96
billion AUD as at January 2015) (source: ICAC 2015)
IMAGE: JOSH SMITH
China is the world’s largest cotton producer AND the world’s
largest consumer of cotton fibre, with a share of around 25% of
global cotton production in 2013/14
89
%
99
%
50
III
B
%
Australian cotton growers have reduced their
insecticide use by 89% over the last decade, with
some crops not sprayed for insects at all
Today, more than 99% of planted cotton in Australia
uses biotechnology
50% more cotton is produced worldwide today on the
same amount of land as compared to 40 some years
ago (source: Cotton Inc., 2014)
Bollgard II® was introduced to Australia in 2004. The
industry is currently working towards the introduction
of Bollgard III®
BIOTECHNOLOGY
AND COTTON
In Australia
Biotechnology refers to the use of cotton varieties with transgenic
or genetically modified (GM) traits
Most of the yield gains in Australia are attributed to plant
breeding, exploiting genetic variation (also known as seed
technology) and genotype responses to modern management
The use of biotechnology in cotton has made a significant
contribution in the dramatic reduction in insecticides applied to
Australian cotton crops
Australian cotton growers have reduced their insecticide use
by 89% over the last decade, with some crops not sprayed for
insects at all
Other environmental, social and economic benefits of
biotechnology in cotton are increased populations of beneficial
insects and wildlife in cotton fields, reduced pesticide run-off,
improved farm worker and neighbour safety, more time for
farmers to spend with families, a decrease in labour and fuel
usage, improved soil quality, reduced production costs, increased
yield, reduced risks and further opportunities to grow cotton in
areas of high pest infestation
There are financial rewards for cotton farmers using
biotechnology. “Since 2010 the total farm income gain derived by
Australian cotton farmers from using this technology has been
$395 million, an average of about $180 per hectare” (source:
National Press Club Address 2012, Graham Brookes, Director of
PG Economics UK)
Australia, Mexico and the USA were the first countries to
commercialise biotech cotton in 1996/97 (source: ICAC, 2015),
starting in 1996 with Ingard®
UNSPRAYED REFUGE
BIOTECHNOLOGY
AND COTTON
Bollgard II® was introduced to Australia in 2004. The industry is
currently working towards the introduction of Bollgard III®
Today, more than 99% of planted cotton in Australia
uses biotechnology
Biotech cotton area has increased to over 60% of the world
cotton area in 2010 (source: ICAC, 2015)
Cotton incorporating transgenic traits has a sound track record
of safe and successful use in Australia, with no adverse incident
recorded in over 15 years of growing these varieties
Bollgard II®, used widely in Australia, contains two genes from
the naturally occurring soil bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis
(Bt) and gives the plant an in-built tolerance to the Helicoverpa
caterpillar. When the caterpillar ingests a small part of the cotton
plant, the Bt protein disrupts the caterpillar’s digestive system and
it dies
Bt is a naturally occurring soil organism that produces insecticidal
proteins and Bt sprays have been safely used for over 50 years
in agriculture
The cotton industry uses three types of transgenic cotton:
Bollgard II ® (with two different genes from the naturally occurring
soil bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)) and Roundup Ready
Flex® (with genes from the soil bacterium called Agrobacterium
tumefaciens) and Liberty Link® (with genes from the soil
microorganism Streptomyces hygroscopicus)
Herbicide tolerant cotton (Roundup Ready Flex® and Liberty
Link®) can reduce the amount of soil cultivation and herbicide
required on cotton crops to control weeds and facilitates
healthier soils through less soil disruption and reductions in
residual herbicides
In Australia, each genetic trait is individually assessed on a
case by case basis by the Office of Gene Technology Regulator
(OGTR), Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) and
the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines
Authority (APVMA)
Over the last decade new cotton varieties released have
contained new features such as improved fibre quality, disease
resistance, maturity and regional adaptability – research is being
undertaken to develop varieties that require less water and/or are
drought tolerant
The use of transgenic cotton is a key component of grower’s
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies that use a
combination of natural controls and pest-specific chemistry to
further reduce pesticide use
Cottonseed oil doesn’t require GM food labelling. This is
because when cottonseed is crushed to make oil, the oil is
separated from the Bt and other transgenic proteins. Cottonseed
oil from a transgenic cotton plant variety contains no genetically
modified material
Globally
Modern technology has enabled increased efficiency in cotton
production not only in Australia, but around the world. 50% more
cotton is produced worldwide today on the same amount of land
as compared to 40 some years ago (source: Cotton Inc., 2014)
The following findings are from the GM Crops & Food:
Biotechnology in Agriculture and the Food Chain report by PG
Economics Ltd, UK, 2014:
- 18.2 million tonnes of additional crop production worldwide
arose from positive yield effects of genetically modified cotton
between 1996 and 2013
- At the global level, genetic modified technology has had a
significant positive impact on farm income, with in 2012, the
direct global farm income benefit being USD $18.8 billion.
This is equivalent to having added 6% to the value of global
production of the four main crops of soybeans, maize, canola,
and cotton. Since 1996, farm incomes have increased by
USD $116.6 billion
- GM insect-resistant traits used in cotton have accounted for
99.3% of additional cotton production. Positive yield impacts
from the use of this technology have occurred in all user
countries (except for genetically modified insect resistant
cotton in Australia where the levels of Heliothis sp. (boll
and bud worm pests) pest control previously obtained with
intensive insecticide use were very good; the main benefit
and reason for adoption of this technology in Australia has
arisen from significant cost savings and the associated
environmental gains from reduced insecticide use) when
compared with average yields derived from crops using
conventional technology (such as application of insecticides
and seed treatments)
- The average yield impact across the total area planted to
these traits between 1996 and 2012 is +16.1% for cotton
0.16
%
12
2
CO
%
The Australian cotton industry represents less than
one third of one per cent of Australian agriculture’s
greenhouse gas emissions (ranging from
0.16-0.29%)
On-farm case studies have indicated that the
adoption of minimum tillage has reduced energy
costs and greenhouse gas emissions by 12%
since 2000
Australian cotton farmers continue to reduce
greenhouse gas emissions and improve the land’s
ability to store more carbon through practices
and innovations
CLIMATE CHALLENGES
AND COTTON
Cotton growers, like other farmers, depend on the natural
environment and the weather to produce their crop
Cotton is a perennial plant grown commercially as an annual,
summer crop in regions that experience climate variability driven
by El Nino/La Nina cycles
The Australian cotton industry has a strong history of adaptation
and change to take advantage of new opportunities and
Australian growers have already developed highly efficient and
flexible farming systems in order to manage their crop in
variable climates
The industry is proud of its commitment to sustainability and
responsible production, and this is driven by a sustained effort in
research, development and extension.
This ensures that the industry:
is connected to the latest information regarding changes in
climate, and the best ways to manage for this.
is positioned to take advantage of the opportunities arising from
and respond to government efforts to manage climate change
and limit man-made greenhouse gas emissions
The Australian cotton industry is relatively a very minor contributor
to agriculture’s greenhouse gas emissions, representing less than
one third of one per cent of Australian agriculture’s greenhouse
gas emissions (ranging from 0.16-0.29%)
Cotton growing has a better-than-neutral carbon footprint. Net
on-farm emissions of greenhouse gases on cotton farms are
negative because the cotton plants store more carbon than is
released from production inputs used during growth
IMAGE: IRENE FLETCHER
IMAGE: SOOZ MYHILL
CLIMATE CHALLENGES
AND COTTON
The main sources of emissions on an irrigated cotton farm are
synthetic fertilisers and electricity and fossil fuels used to power
irrigation pumps
On-farm case studies have indicated that the adoption of
minimum tillage has reduced energy costs and greenhouse gas
emissions by 12% since 2000
The industry has carried out a life cycle assessment of an
Australian cotton T-shirt. It found the major environmental impact
to be in the ‘use’ component of the garment (wearing then
washing) rather than production and manufacturing
Australian cotton farmers continue to reduce greenhouse gas
emissions and improve the land’s ability to store more carbon
through practices and innovations including:
Maximising the efficiency of major inputs used in cotton growing
such as energy and nitrogen by optimising irrigation pump
performance, using fuel-efficient farm machinery
Using alternative sources of nitrogen, e.g. the use of legume
rotation crops which fix nitrogen in the soil
Implementing other practices to improve soil health including
using controlled traffic and minimum-tillage systems
Further minimising machinery operations (and therefore fuel
use) of spraying (through industry-wide use of herbicide-tolerant
cotton), and during harvest (through broad scale changes in
machinery used which replaces multiple machines with one
Using renewable and alternative energy sources and fuels such
as solar panels to power irrigation pumps, and biofuels
Conserving and managing areas of native vegetation and riparian
areas on farm, which are valuable carbon stores
The most up-to-date knowledge in these areas is delivered to
growers through the industry’s extension network, CottonInfo,
and the myBMP environmental management program which
includes components on energy and input efficiency, natural
resources and soil health.
Some of the supporting tools that are available for
growers include:
a carbon footprint calculator for cotton farms which demonstrates
how farmers can be carbon neutral, or even better, be
carbon positive
tailored information and decision support tools to understand and
better manage weather and climate
IMAGE: GUY ROTH
These practices also contribute to developing landscapes that
are more resilient to the impacts of drought and climate variability
27
%
60
tonne
1
mm
3
x
Cotton holds up to 27 times its own weight in water
and becomes stronger when wet
About 60% of the world’s total cotton harvest is
used to make clothing, with the rest used in home
furnishings and industrial products
One tonne of cotton seed yields approximately 200kg
of oil, 500kg of cotton seed meal and 300kg of hulls
Cotton linters are fine, very short fibres that remain
on the cottonseed after ginning. They are curly
fibres typically less than 3mm long and are used
manufacture of paper (archival paper and banknotes)
PROPERTIES AND
COTTON PRODUCTS
Cotton is both a food and fibre crop
The cotton plant produces fruit, known as bolls
When mature the crop is picked and ginned - which separates
the cotton fibre (or lint) from the seed
Cotton lint makes up about 42 percent of the picked cotton by
weight, and contributes about 85 percent of the total income
from a cotton crop. The other 15 percent of income is from
cotton seed
Almost all parts of the cotton plant are used in some way
including the lint, cottonseed, linters, stalks and seed hulls
Natural cotton fibre properties
Cotton is a soft, absorbent and breathable natural fibre, making
it the perfect fibre for clothing and undergarments worn close to
the skin
Cotton keeps the body cool in summer and warm in winter
because it is a good conductor of heat
Cotton is non-allergenic and, unlike synthetic fibres, cotton fibre
is a natural product that contains no chemicals
Cotton, due to its unique fibre structure, breathes better and is
more comfortable than oil-based synthetic fabrics
Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to dye due to its natural
whiteness and high rate of absorbency
Australian cotton in particular is perfectly suited to colour
application processes as it offers spinners crisp white lint, low
breakages and stoppages, good throughput efficiency and
uniformity of yarn
PROPERTIES AND
COTTON PRODUCTS
Cotton holds up to 27 times its own weight in water and becomes
stronger when wet
Cotton can’t hold an electric charge, eliminating static cling
Products made from cotton linters
Cotton linters are fine, very short fibres that remain on the
cottonseed after ginning. They are curly fibres typically less than
3mm long
Linters are used in the manufacture of paper (such as archival
paper and bank notes) and as a raw material in the manufacture
of cellulose plastics
Linters are commonly used for medical supplies such as
bandages, cotton buds, cotton balls and x-rays
Products made from cottonseed
Cotton seed, which makes up around half the weight of the
picked cotton, is mostly used to make cotton seed oil
One tonne of cotton seed yields approximately 200kg of oil,
500kg of cotton seed meal and 300kg of hulls
Cotton seed oil is cholesterol free, high in polyunsaturated
fats and contains high levels of anti-oxidants (vitamin E) which
contribute to its long shelf life. It can be used for deep frying, and
for some margarines and salad dressings. Cotton seed oil is
also used to make products such as soap, emulsifiers,
cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, rubber, paint, water proofing
agents and candles
The by-product of the oil-extraction process is meal, which is
used as stock feed. Cotton seed meal is a high protein meal that
can be fed to most animals. Cotton seed hulls are also a valuable
feed source for livestock
Global cotton seed production can potentially provide protein
requirements for half a billion people and many billions of
other animals
$2
m
$24
5
2
CO
.25
Australian cotton growers pay a compulsory research
levy of $2.25 per bale of cotton they produce
In 2014/15, cotton growers and the Australian
Government co-invested $24 million through the
CRDC into 260 research projects
Research is group into 5 key program areas: farmers,
industry, customers, people and performance
Research and development is actively seeking ways
to further improve water, fertiliser and energy use
efficiency at the same time as reducing greenhouse
emissions for Australian cotton growers
RESEARCH, TECHNOLOGY
AND INNOVATION
Australian cotton growers, in a partnership with the Australian
Government, has been a long-term investor in research that
has delivered significant benefits to growers, rural communities
and Australia
Australian cotton growers pay a compulsory research levy of
$2.25 per bale of cotton they produce which is matched by the
Australian Government up to a limit of 0.5 per cent of the gross
value of production
This research investment underpins the Australian cotton
industry, and in the industry being recognised as world
leaders in the adoption of technology, innovation,
environmental management and the production of high quality,
high yielding cotton
The Australian cotton industry has identified the connections
between improved productivity, natural resource management
and addressing climate change. For example, research and
development is actively seeking ways to further improve water,
fertiliser and energy use efficiency at the same time as reducing
greenhouse emissions
The cotton industry’s research and development programs aim
to increase crop yields, improve fibre quality, improve irrigation
and water use efficiency, promote productivity and innovation,
provide research information on salinity, river health, and
groundwater and enhance biodiversity. More recently are
efforts to better understand the requirements of our international
markets and to attract and retain a skilled workforce
The research effort also supports the development of sustainable
production practices, the stewardship of agricultural chemicals
and biotechnology and the industry’s environmental management
program, myBMP (Best Management Practices)
WATER MONITORING
RESEARCH, TECHNOLOGY
AND INNOVATION
The Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research
Organisation’s (CSIRO’s) cotton breeding program has played
a major role in ensuring Australian cotton growers remain world
leaders in cotton yield and quality
New varieties are researched and tested to CSIRO to increase
yield, use less water, reduce the need for chemicals and be
resistant to diseases
The cotton research and development effort is largely driven by
cotton growers. Cotton Australia – via grower advisory panels
– provides advice to the CRDC on research projects funded by
the cotton research and development levy so that outcomes are
relevant and practical at farm and industry level
The industry’s CottonInfo program was launched in 2012
to connect growers with research, bringing cotton growers,
consultants, and agronomists the latest news, information,
events and research to achieve best practice in the industry. The
program is a joint venture between Cotton Australia, the CRDC
and Cotton Seed Distributors
Over the life of the Cotton Catchment Communities Cooperative
Research Centre (operational from 2006 to 2012), 428
research and extension projects involving over 1000 people
were managed. (source: Weaving a Future, Seven Years of
Cooperative Research Report, 2012)
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
The Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC)
works with industry to invest in research, development and
extension for a more profitable, sustainable and dynamic
cotton industry. In 2014/15, cotton growers and the Australian
Government co-invested $24 million through the CRDC into
260 research projects over 5 program areas: farmers, industry,
customers, people and performance
100
Arab traders bring two cotton fabrics, muslin and
calico, to Italy and Spain
1641
First cotton spinning factory opens in Manchester,
UK, marking the true beginning of Europe’s
cotton industry
1996
Transgenic cotton varieties are first introduced. They
will be widely adopted by the world cotton industry
before the end of the 20th century
2011
World cotton prices peaked at their highest recorded
levels ever. The Bremen CFI Index, one of the three
most important price indices for cotton trade, stood at
246.15 cents/lb on 8th March
WORLD COTTON
HISTORY
5000 B.C: Cotton fibre and cloth fragments found in Mexico date
from this period
3000 B.C: Cotton first cultivated as a fabric in the Indus River
Valley (present-day Pakistan)
2500 B.C: Chinese, Egyptian and South American civilisations
begin weaving cotton fabrics
2500 B.C: Early farming societies in South and North America
domesticate and breed two local species of cotton: Gossypium
hirsutum and Gossypium barbadense
300 B.C: Alexander the Great’s army brings cotton goods into
Europe following conquest of the Persian Empire. However,
cotton cloth remains expensive and its use is limited
100 A.D: Arab traders bring two cotton fabrics, muslin and calico,
to Italy and Spain
800s: The Moors introduce cotton cultivation to Spain
1492: Christopher Columbus finds the modern world’s most
popular current cotton variety, Gossypium hirsutum, in the
Bahamas
1500s: Denim fabric is initially produced in Nimes, France.
Denim derives its name from ‘serge de Nimes’ (‘fabric of Nimes’)
1500s: Sailors from Italian port city, Genoa, begin to wear denim
trousers. The word ‘jeans’ is derived from ‘Genes’, the French
name for Genoa
1530s: Naturally coloured cotton fabrics are among the first items
collected from the Americas and more technically sophisticated
than fabric woven by European looms at the time
1600s: The East India Company brings rare cotton fabrics to
Europe from India
WORLD COTTON
HISTORY
1621: Cotton first produced in parts of present-day USA
1641: First cotton spinning factory opens in Manchester, UK,
marking the true beginning of Europe’s cotton industry
1700s: The world cotton industry develops dramatically as Britain
acquires colonies suitable for cotton growing whilst at the same
time textile machinery improvements allow stronger yarn to be
spun
1700s: Cotton replaces flax and wool as Europeans most
popular fabric
1760s: Britain overtakes India as world’s largest cotton processor
as a result of the Industrial Revolution
1764-67: The spinning jenny – a multi-spindle spinning frame
– (1764) and Arkwright’s spinning frame (1767) are invented,
enabling cheap mass production of cotton cloth
1793: American Eli Whitney patents the cotton gin, separating
cotton 50 times faster than traditional hand methods. As a result
of this and the advent of cheaper industrial dyes, Gossypium
hirsutum, a white cotton species, replaces coloured varieties as
the most popular cotton variety
Early 1800s: Southern US states become the world’s largest
exporter of cotton to thriving British textile mills
1920s: The USA accounts for more than half of the world’s
cotton fibre
1939–45: During WWII, naturally green and brown cottons are
again produced commercially to counter the lack of
dyes available
1940s: Denim’s popularity becomes more widespread as its
image shifts from durable clothing for blue-collar workers towards
everyday apparel for the general public and youth in particular
1950/51: World cotton demand and production levels each reach
seven million tonnes
Early 1980s: Most native, coloured cotton varieties grown in
Africa, Asia, Central and South America are replaced by all-white,
commercial varieties
1996: Transgenic cotton varieties are first introduced. They will
be widely adopted by the world cotton industry before the end of
the 20th century
2003: The first transgenic cotton varieties to have two
independently acting Bt genes are successfully introduced in
Australia and the USA
2004/05: World cotton demand and production reach record
highs of 23 and 26 million tonnes respectively
2006/07: World cotton average yields reach a record 747
kilograms per hectare, due in large part to increased use of
biotechnology
2008: Structure of world in trade changing due to financial stress
of Global Financial Crisis, volatility in the futures market and
reduced demand
2009: The Better Cotton Initiative is established as an
independent organisation bringing together farmers, ginners,
traders, spinners, mills, manufacturers, retailers, brands
and grassroots organisations in a unique global community
committed to developing Better Cotton as a sustainable
mainstream commodity
2011: World cotton prices peaked at their highest recorded levels
ever. The Bremen CFI Index, one of the three most important
price indices for cotton trade, stood at 246.15 cents/lb on 8th
March
2013/14: The global 20 year average (1993/14 to 2013/14)
planted area reaches 33 million hectares of cotton
2014: Cotton Australia signs an agreement with the Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI) on behalf of Australia’s cotton industry to help
secure access to future growth markets as Australian cotton
growers contend with competition from synthetic fibres. The
agreement transfers a BCI licence to Australian cotton produced
under myBMP certification
2014/15: China, the world’s largest cotton importer and is also the
biggest producer, produces an estimated 33.0 million bales
IMAGE: JULIE REARDON
42
%
63
%
70
1/3
%
Around 42% of an average cotton farm area is
dedicated to native vegetation (source: Australian
Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, 2014)
63% of farms have a riparian zone ranging between
2 and 15 km in length (on average 7 km) (source:
2011 Cotton Grower Survey, CRDC/Cotton CRC)
70% of cotton growers have river frontage and 75%
of growers are actively managing their riparian
zones (source: 2011 Cotton Grower Survey,
CRDC/Cotton CRC)
Nearly one third of all Australian bird species are
found in cotton growing regions
BIODIVERSITY
AND COTTON
Biodiversity refers to the variety of life forms found in an
environment including animals, plants, bacteria, fungi and
micro-organisms
Managing biodiversity and natural resources surrounding cotton
farms provides benefits to the environment and to the farm.
Growers use natural resources to help manage pests naturally
and to store carbon in the soil and vegetation
The Australian cotton industry is committed to the careful and
responsible management the natural environment
The industry works with research organisations, catchment
management authorities, regional natural resource management
organisations and groups such as Landcare, to play its part in
responsible landscape management
The Australian cotton industry undertakes work to better
understand vegetation on cotton farms - both the ecosystem
services it provides such as carbon storage, erosion control,
natural pest control and biodiversity value; as well as how the
industry can improve the management practices of riparian lands
to contribute towards their health
myBMP (best management practices), the cotton industry’s
environmental management program, helps growers to manage
the natural environment
Independent assessments have shown that Australian cotton
growers have improved soil, and native vegetation management
which is contributing to improved biodiversity
Largely due to best management practices from growers,
Australian cotton farms contain vibrant, active ecosystems where
both nature and cotton production can happily thrive
IMAGE: GUY ROTH
BIODIVERSITY
AND COTTON
Plants
Animals
Around 42% of an average cotton farm area is dedicated to
native vegetation (source: Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability
Report, 2014)
Bats, birds, ants, wasps and other predatory insects are a cotton
grower’s natural workforce against pests that attack cotton
plants. Growers encourage beneficial insects and predator pests
into cotton crops as part of Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
systems reducing pesticides and encouraging natural eradication
63% of farms have a riparian zone ranging between 2 and 15 km
in length (on average 7 km) (source: 2011 Cotton Grower Survey,
CRDC and Cotton CRC)
70% of cotton growers have river frontage and 75% of growers
are actively managing their riparian zones (source: 2011 Cotton
Grower Survey, CRDC and Cotton CRC)
Healthy, intact native vegetation provides important buffer zones,
harbours beneficial insects and nature’s pest controllers (birds
and bats), reduces soil erosion and helps keep waterways
healthy
Connecting remnant vegetation and replanting native species
can help improve biodiversity by extending habitat and providing
natural corridors for animals to move along
Well managed native pastures are not only excellent for cattle
feed and are relatively drought tolerant, but help improve
biodiversity such as bird life on cotton farms
Native vegetation provides windbreaks that reduce soil erosion
and act as a buffer to the application of sprays such as herbicides
Leaving standing and fallen dead timber, rocks and understorey
shrubs provides habitats for native plants and animals
Sowing small areas of local native grasses as a nursery for
seed collection allows restoration if necessary, on other areas of
the farm
Practices used by cotton growers to manage riparian areas on
their farms include:
Fencing and selectively grazing
Excluding grazing
Control of weeds and pests
Provision of alternative water points for stock
Maintaining filter, buffer strips of vegetation
Planting native trees and other vegetation
(source: The Australian Cotton Water Story, 2012)
Native animals living in healthy native vegetation help keep the
right balance of pests and predators
Nearly one third of all Australian bird species are found in
cotton growing regions. 153 bird species were found in natural
vegetation in the Namoi Valley, a major cotton growing region in
NSW. A bird study of 19 water storages on nine cotton farms in
the Gwydir Valley recorded 42,495 birds representing 45 different
species, including many of conservation significance
450 species of invertebrates have been recorded in 1 cotton field
Cotton growers participate in feral pest control programs to
protect native plants and animals as well flora and fauna
monitoring such as recording animal tracks, diggings, footprints,
scat, chewed bark, nests, spider webs and bird calls
Soils
Australian soils are often described as ancient, highly weathered
and infertile. Cotton is grown on floodplains where the soils are
younger and more fertile than most Australian soils. The major
soil types on which cotton is grown are grey, brown and black
Vertosols (around 75 percent), that are naturally fertile, have high
clay content and strong shrink-swell capacities
Soil that is full of nutrients and organic matter and that can store
moisture grow better, higher yielding crops, contribute to water
use efficiency and break down residual herbicides faster
Many cotton growers are using minimum or no till farming
systems (where the soil is not ploughed, and stubble is retained
and planted into) which has seen dramatic improvements in soil
health, retaining moisture and nutrients, and a reduction in diesel
fuel usage (hence carbon emissions)
Cotton is grown in rotation with other crops (wheat, chickpeas
and sunflowers) to increase nutrient levels in soil and are
sometimes left ‘fallow’, allowing a natural build-up of nutrients
Many cotton farmers use organic fertilisers (chicken and feed lot
manures), and some are experimenting with bio-solids
myBMP (Best Management Practices) helps growers to manage
the soil health and nutrition management
IMAGE: JULIE REARDON
1997
The original BMP program began in 1997 and was
reviewed and redeveloped in 2006-07
2006
The original BMP program was reviewed and
redeveloped in 2006-07
2010
The current online system re-launched in 2010
as myBMP
2014
In 2014, Cotton Australia signed a landmark
agreement with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) on
behalf of Australia’s cotton industry - transferring a
BCI licence to myBMP-certified Australian growers
AUSTRALIAN COTTON’S
MYBMP ENVIRONMENTAL
PROGRAM
The widespread adoption of the myBMP (Best Management
Practices) program has helped to deliver a responsible Australia
cotton industry which is regarded as maintaining the world’s best
practices and is seen as a model for change by other sectors of
Australian agriculture
myBMP is a farm and environmental management system for
cotton growers to ensure that Australian cotton is produced
according to best practice
The original BMP program began in 1997 and was reviewed and
redeveloped in 2006-07. The current online system re-launched
in 2010 as myBMP
myBMP allows growers and industry to access the latest
technical data and research, find solutions to challenges and
provides practical tools to help growers operate at
maximum efficiency
There are many benefits to the cotton industry’s commitment to
responsible production through myBMP. These include safer farm
workplaces, healthier natural environments, reduced input costs,
better run farm businesses and improved community health
myBMP assists cotton growers to keep pesticide use to a
minimum, control weeds and diseases, maximise water use
efficiency, improve soil health, protect and retain native animals
and vegetation
AUSTRALIAN COTTON’S
MYBMP ENVIRONMENTAL
PROGRAM
Cotton farmers assess, document, monitor and
are audited in 11 key areas of farm operations:
Biosecurity – for prevention, management and control of pests
and diseases
Biotechnology – adherence to the requirements of genetically
modified cotton varieties
Energy and Input Efficiency - for more efficient energy inputs
such as electricity and fuel
Fibre Quality - for growing the best quality cotton possible
Human Resources and Work Health and Safety - helps growers
manage employees and contractors whilst providing a safe and
compliant workplace
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) - for management of pests,
weeds and diseases
Natural Assets - for managing soil, water and biodiversity on farm
Pesticide Management - for all aspects of pesticide management,
storage and use on farm
Petrochemical Storage and Handling - for managing fuels and
lubricants on farm
Soil Health - for maintaining and/or improving soil quality and
crop nutrition
Water Management - covering water quality, efficiency of storage
and distribution for both dryland and irrigated farming practices
Cotton Australia’s ‘Cotton to Market’ program was established
to create confidence to use cotton in the textile supply chain,
position Australian cotton in a future that demands responsiblyproduced cotton and create value for Australia’s cotton growers
In 2014, Cotton Australia signed a landmark agreement with
the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) on behalf of Australia’s cotton
industry. The agreement transfers a BCI licence to Australian
cotton produced under myBMP certification and this agreement
allows Australian cotton growers to participate more easily in that
expanding market
IMAGE: PETE JOHNSON
Practical examples of myBMP include using natural techniques
(like pupae busting) and softer chemicals to target particular
pests, tail water recycling, crop rotations and stubble retention
to improve soil health and retain soil moisture and irrigation
scheduling and monitoring tools to limit water usage
IMAGE: JULIE REARDON
1991
2014
11
Since 1991, the Australian cotton industry has
conducted independent assessments of its
environmental performance, to track performance
and suggest improvements
In 2014, Cotton Australia and the CRDC released
the Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability Report,
tracking and publicly recording the industry’s
economic, social and environmental credentials
The myBMP program – Best Management Practices,
a voluntary online system for individual growers to
assess and improve performance in 11 key areas of
the farm operation
RESPONSIBLE AND
SUSTAINABLE COTTON
PRODUCTION
The Australian cotton industry is recognised internationally as a
leader in sustainable cotton production and has been used as a
model for change by other Australian agriculture industries
Since 1991, the Australian cotton industry has conducted
independent assessments of its environmental performance, to
track performance and suggest improvements
The Australian cotton industry’s environmental stewardship
is underpinned by the myBMP program – Best Management
Practices, a voluntary online system for individual growers to
assess and improve performance in 11 key areas of
farm operations
There are many benefits to the myBMP program including safer
farm workplaces, healthier natural environments, reduced input
costs, better run farm businesses and improved community
health and wellbeing
In 2014, Cotton Australia and the Cotton Research and
Development Corporation (CRDC) released the Australian
Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, tracking and publicly
recording the industry’s economic, social and
environmental credentials
The world’s textile supply chain is increasingly demanding cotton
(and other products) from responsibly-produced sources, right
back to the farm
Cotton Australia promotes Australia’s efforts in responsible cotton
production to the cotton supply chain including brands, retailers
and manufacturers, via its Cotton to Market program
RESPONSIBLE AND
SUSTAINABLE COTTON
PRODUCTION
Cotton LEADS™ is a program that is committed to responsible
cotton production and is founded on core principles that are
consistent with sustainability, the use of best practices and
traceability in the supply chain. This joint program, initiated by
Australia and the United States, offers manufacturers, brands and
retailers a reliable cotton supply chain solution and confidence
that their raw material is responsibly produced and identified
(source: Cotton LEADS, 2015)
IMAGE: TIM CHAFFEY
There are a number of international initiatives
aimed at stewarding and continuously
improving the global cotton industry, including:
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) operates as a not-for-profit
organisation. BCI brings together farmers, ginners, traders,
spinners, mills, manufacturers, retailers, brands and grassroots
organisations in a unique global community committed
to developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream
commodity (source: BCI, 2015)
Cotton Made in Africa is run by the Aid by Trade Foundation, and
follows an innovative approach in development cooperation and
‘social business’ principles. (source: CMIA, 2015)
Fairtrade Cotton is about better prices, decent working conditions,
local sustainability and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers
in the developing world. Fairtrade provides a certification system
and product labels (FAIRTRADE Mark) to connect consumers
and producers (source: Fairtrade, 2015)
Organic cotton production methods are managed in accordance
with organic standards (Source: Australian Certified Organic,
2014), of which there are many operating globally. The largest
organic cotton producers by volume are India, China, Turkey,
Tanzania and the United States (Source: Textile Exchange, 2014)
PHOTO: JULIE REARDON
IMAGE: JULIE REARDON
1
1.3
%
70
%
96
st
Australian irrigated lint yields are now the highest in
the world, being about three times the world average.
Australian cotton growers produce more crop per
drop than any other cotton producing country
Each gigalitre of water used for cotton production
results in 1.3 direct jobs and generates $500,000 in
gross value agricultural production (source: Stubbs
Report, 2012)
In 2014, 70 percent of cotton farmers use soil
moisture probes, up from 40 percent in 2006 (highest
of all agriculture industries in Australia)
96 percent of irrigators have improved their furrow
irrigation system or changed to an alternate
irrigation system
WATER USE
EFFICIENCY IN THE
COTTON INDUSTRY
Australian irrigated lint yields are now the highest of any major
cotton producing country in the world, being about three times
the world average. This means Australia cotton growers produce
more crop per drop than any other cotton producing country
The Australian cotton industry has achieved a 40% increase
in water productivity over the last decade. (source: Australian
Grown Cotton Sustainability Report 2014)
The CSIRO breeds appropriate cotton varieties for Australian
and regional conditions. Each grower selects the best and most
efficient variety for their region and farm
Cotton is an efficient plant, with the latest industry data showing
approximately 70% of all water is used by the crop. This indicates
that there is now less on-farm water losses and more of the water
is used by the crop
Most cotton growers have what are termed “general, or low
security” water licences, which means they only get to access
their share of the water once the needs of towns, stock and
domestic use and the environment are met
Cotton is only planted when sufficient water is made available
from rivers and groundwater sources through government
regulated water licensing schemes. When there’s no water,
there’s no cotton
In their ‘natural’ state, the rivers located in the southern half of
Australia experience more variable flows than virtually any other
rivers in the world. Between 1885 and 1960, history shows the
Darling River stopped flowing at Menindee on 48 occasions –
well before irrigation existed on the river or its tributaries
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
WATER USE
EFFICIENCY IN THE
COTTON INDUSTRY
Cotton is mostly grown in the 400-800mm summer rainfall zone,
which means cotton crops can receive significant amounts of
their water needs from rain during the growing season. In 201112 about 20% of the cotton crop was rain-grown, the rest irrigated
Australia’s cotton growers have improved water use efficiency
by 3-4% per year since 2003. (source: Third Australian Cotton
Industry Environmental Assessment, September 2012)
Australian cotton growers have almost doubled their irrigation
water use index from 1.1 bales/megalitre in 2000-01 to 1.9 bales/
megalitre in 2009-10
Cotton’s average irrigation requirement is 7.8 megalitres per
hectare. This compares to rice (12.6ML/ha), fruit and nut trees
(5.6 ML/ha) and cut flowers and turf (4.9 ML/ha)Pasture for
grazing accounted for the greatest amount of irrigated land
(538,000 hectares) in Australia in 2010–11, with the volume of
irrigation water applied representing 27% of the national total.
(source: ABS Water Use on Australian Farms 2010-11)
In 2013-14, the largest area of irrigated land in Australia was
pasture and cereal crops used for grazing or fed off, which
accounted for 714,503.2 hectares, or 30% of the total area
irrigated (source: ABS Water Use on Australian Farms 2010-11)
The largest volume of irrigation water was applied to cotton,
which used 2,851 gigalitres, or 26% of the national irrigation
total for the year (11,060 gigalitres) (source: ABS Water Use on
Australian Farms 2010-11). 566,000 hectares were planted to
cotton in 2010-11
Cotton is the lifeblood of many regional communities, employing
10,000 Australians in Queensland and NSW in a
non-drought year
Each gigalitre of water used for cotton production results in 1.3
direct jobs and generates $500,000 in gross value agricultural
production. (source: Stubbs Report, 2012)
Irrigation water for agriculture is used on the highest value crops.
Farmers choose to “spend” their water entitlements on the crops
that deliver the best return per unit of water, in many areas that
crop is cotton
Once planted, Australian cotton farmers are
smart about the way they manage water
resources. The Australian Grown Cotton
Sustainability Report 2014 showed that cotton
growers are using a range of techniques to
constantly improve water use efficiency:
70 percent of farmers use soil moisture probes, up from 40
percent in 2006 (highest of all agriculture industries in Australia)
96 percent of irrigators have improved their furrow irrigation
system or changed to an alternate irrigation system
49 percent of irrigators had made changes to the flow or size of
their siphons
35 percent have redesigned fields. For example, growers use
laser-levelling to ensure uniform, well drained fields using GPS
guidance equipment and position storage dams closer to cotton
fields to reduce evaporation losses
Other practices include irrigating to deficits, using drip and
overhead sprinkler systems, better accounting of soil variations,
changed bed shapes, using irrigation scheduling probes, furrow
irrigation system optimisation evaluations, pump optimisation and
reducing distribution losses
Additional water use efficiency driving
practices include:
Before planting their crop, cotton growers use sophisticated
weather forecasting software to predict how much crop can be
sustained before planting. Zero and minimum till farming is also
used to help retain soil moisture
Growers use information and technology (including soil moisture
probes, satellites and drones) so they water only when and how
much is needed
Irrigation channels that pump water to the fields are lined to
reduce loss through seepage
Adhering to the Australian cotton industry’s environmental
management program – myBMP. myBMP includes a water
management module covering water quality, efficiency of storage
and distribution for both dryland and irrigated farming practices to
improve farming practices and carefully manage our
natural resources
IMAGE: DONNA HALL
WATER USE
EFFICIENCY IN THE
COTTON INDUSTRY
These systems can achieve labour savings and with some soil
types, water savings (about 30 percent), but have significantly
higher energy costs associated with water pumping and
machine operation
Mobile electromagnetic meters are used for easy and rapid
assessment of soils for their suitability for irrigation
Tail water recycling systems are implemented so that water
is reused
Covering storages to minimise evaporation
Reducing evaporation by shortening row lengths
Avoiding unnecessary water storage on farm by only purchasing
water as it is needed and not putting water directly into dry
storages which soak up water
Growers are and lining storages and channels with clay or
non-porous materials to avoid seepage. Thermal imaging and
electromagnetic surveys can be used to identify “leaky” dams,
pipes and channels so they can be repaired
Mulching and stubble retention helps to retain soil moisture,
reducing the need for irrigations
Permanent wheel beds to reduce soil compaction and increase
water infiltration
Implementing software packages such as Water Track
(www.watertrack.com.au)
IMAGE: GEORGIE CARRIGAN
Farmers are changing to alternative irrigation systems such as
centre pivots and lateral move systems and it is expected there
will be an increasing number of these machines in the future
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
1788
1934
2012
2014
The First Fleet brings cottonseed to Australia
Cotton production reaches 17,000 bales
Cotton Australia celebrates the organisation’s
40th anniversary
Cotton Australia and the CRDC release the
Australian Grown Cotton Sustainabiltiy Report
AUSTRALIAN
COTTON HISTORY
1788 - The First Fleet brings cottonseed to Australia
1830 - First shipment of cotton exported to England, consisting of
three bags
1857 - Small quantities of dryland cotton grown in Queensland
1861-65 - American Civil War causes American cotton production
to fall. Australia attempts to fill the gap
1870s - Australian cotton production peaks then falls as world
prices decline
1926 - The Queensland Cotton Marketing Board is established.
Government subsidy introduced to promote production in central
Queensland
1934 - Cotton production reaches 17,000 bales
1954 - Cotton industry almost non-existent
1958 - Keepit Dam is completed on the Namoi River in NSW,
providing irrigation water to the Namoi Valley
1960 - Limited irrigated cotton production commences in southwest Queensland
1961 - Commercial crop planted at Wee Waa, using water from
Keepit Dam
1966 - Cotton established in the Macquarie Valley following
completion of the Burrendong Dam. Cotton production also
begins at Bourke
1968 - Emerald Irrigation Area produces first exportable surplus
1971 - Raw Cotton Bounty removed at the request of the cotton
industry. Cotton production reaches 87,000 bales
AUSTRALIAN
COTTON HISTORY
1973 - Cotton production on the Ord River Scheme ceases,
mainly due to insect resistance to pesticides
2010/11 - Record crop of 4.1 million bales, industry in resurgence
after almost a decade of drought
1975 - Cotton production reaches 110,000 bales
2011/12: Cotton continues to expand into the Riverina in southern
NSW and the industry celebrates a back-to-back record crop of
5.3 million bales
1976 - Cotton established in Gwydir Valley at Moree using water
from the newly constructed Copeton Dam
1977 - The construction of the Pindari and Glenlyon Dams allows
cotton to be grown in the Macintyre Valley in
Southern Queensland
1980 - Cotton production reaches 435,000 bales
1985 - Cotton production reaches 1.1 million bales
1990 - Cotton industry self-funds First Environmental Audit,
leading to introduction of Best Management Practices (BMP)
1992 - World record yields in Australia lead to record 2.2 million
bale crop
1995 - Drought causes harvest to fall to 1.5 million bales
1996 - The first transgenic cotton variety (Ingard®) introduced
to Australia
1997 - Cotton production reaches 2.7 million bales
2001 - Crop reaches record high of 3.4 million bales
2001 - World cotton price reaches lowest level in nearly 30 years
2002 - Roundup Ready® cotton introduced to Australia
2012: Cotton Australia celebrates the organisation’s
40th anniversary
2013/14: Third year in a row recording a crop of more than 4
million bales
2013: The Australian cotton industry co-founds Cotton LEADS™
a partnership between the Australian and US cotton industries
demonstrating a commitment to the supply and use of
responsibly-produced cotton through national and
international efforts.
2014: Cotton Australia signs an agreement with the Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI) on behalf of Australia’s cotton industry to help
secure access to future growth markets as Australian cotton
growers contend with competition from synthetic fibres. The
agreement transfers a BCI licence to Australian cotton produced
under myBMP certification
The 17th Australian Cotton Conference was held on the Gold
Coast and attracted more than 1800 delegates, the biggest
attendance on record in the event’s 34-year history
2002/04 - Worst drought in 100 years results in 60 per cent
reduction in crop size
2014: Cotton Australia at the Cotton Research and Development
Corporation (CRDC) release the Australian Grown Cotton
Sustainability Report 2014
2003 - Cotton industry undertakes Second Environmental Audit
2014/15: Australian crop produces an estimated 1.9 million bales
2003 - Transgenic Bollgard II® trait introduced in Australia,
replacing Ingard®
2005 - Australian crop sets new world record yield, leading to a
2.9 million bale crop
2005/06 - 95% of Australia’s cotton growers plant transgenic
varieties, accounting for 80 per cent of total cotton crop
2007/08 - Australian cotton industry severely impacted by
drought, leading to smallest crop in 30 years
2008/09 - A new path is set for Cotton Australia as it merges with
a key research partner, the Australian Cotton Growers Research
Association (ACGRA)
2009/10 - myBMP re-launched as an electronic, internet-based
program, significant rains across cotton areas commences in
August 2010
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
39
%
42
x
3
152
The average Australian cotton farm is run by growers
with an average age of 39 years
The average Australian cotton farm dedicates 42% of
farm area to native vegetation
Australian irrigated lint yields are three times the
world average - this means Australian cotton growers
produces more crop per drop
Cotton is one of Australia’s largest rural export
earners and helps underpin the viability of more than
152 rural communities
AUSTRALIAN COTTON
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
The average Australian cotton farm:
- is family owned and operated
- directly creates jobs for 6-7 people
- is run by growers with an average age of 39
- grows 495 hectares of cotton, comprising 17% of the total
farm area
- supplements cotton with other crops including wheat,
chickpeas and sorghum, and many Australian cotton farmers
also graze sheep and cattle
- dedicates 42% of farm area to native vegetation
There are more than 1200 cotton farms in Australia, roughly half
in NSW and half in Queensland
The industry directly employs 10,000 Australians in a non-drought
year (source: Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability Report,
2014)
The cotton industry employs 15 times as many people as grazing
and five times as many people as dryland cropping. (source:
Stubbs Report, 2012)
The Australian cotton industry produced a record crop in
2011/2012, with more than 583,000 hectares planted. This area
produced more than 5 million bales, with a total forecast value of
close to $3 billion
Australian irrigated lint yields are now the highest of any major
cotton producing country in the world, being about three times
the world average - this means Australia cotton growers produce
more crop per drop
AUSTRALIAN COTTON
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
Most of this yield gain is attributed to seed technology
IMAGE: BROOKE SUMMERS
The top 20% of Australian growers achieved yields of 12 bales/
hectare in 2013 (source: Boyce Report, 2014). Average irrigated
crop yields exceeded 10 bales/ha for the first time in 2008-09
and reached record levels in 2012-13 at 10.73 bales/ha - growing
more cotton with the same amount of land (source: Australian
Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, 2014)
For the past 10 years, the average annual amount of cotton lint
produced in Australia was 641,806 metric tonnes (2,827,338
bales). Production reached a record high in 2011-12 at 1,215,870
metric tonnes (5.3 million bales) and a low in 2007-08 at 136,831
metric tonnes (600,000 bales). The five year average production
quantity from 2009-2014 is 3.9 million bales
Cotton is a major commodity, representing from 30 to 60 percent
of the gross value of the total agricultural production in Australian
regions where it is grown (source: Australian Grown Cotton
Sustainability Report, 2014)
Cotton is one of Australia’s largest rural export earners and helps
underpin the viability of more than 152 rural communities
IMAGE: ANDREW MURDOCH
Cotton is mostly grown in the 400-800mm summer rainfall zone
in Queensland and NSW, which means cotton crops can receive
significant amounts of their water needs from rain during the
growing season
The major production area in NSW stretches south from the
Macintyre River on the Queensland border and covers the
Gwydir, Namoi and Macquarie valleys. In NSW cotton is also
grown along the Barwon and Darling rivers in the west and the
Lachlan and Murrumbidgee rivers in the south
Australia uses 100% local seed (source, ICAC, 2011)
In an average year, Australia’s cotton growers produce enough
cotton to clothe 500 million people
Australia has an enviable reputation on the world market as a
reliable supplier of very high quality cotton, and can command
a premium price for this reason. Varieties from CSIRO’s cotton
plant breeding program has improved yield, High Volume
Instrument (HVI) classing quality and are showing superior textile
performance attributes. (source: Cotton Conference Paper,
Michael Bange and Robert Long, 2012)
Australia produces around 3% of the world’s cotton but is the third
largest exporter, behind the USA and India
The major buyers of Australian cotton are currently China (68%),
Indonesia, Thailand, South Korea, Bangladesh and Japan
(source: Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, 2014)
IMAGE: JOSH SMITH
In Queensland, cotton is grown mostly in the south in the Darling
Downs, St George, Dirranbandi and Macintyre Valley regions and
the remainder is grown near Emerald, Theodore and Biloela in
Central Queensland
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
$2b
rd
3
1.25
%
85
Over a five year average between 2009 and 2014,
the Australian cotton crop is worth AUD $2 billion
annually, underpinning the viability of 152
rural communities
Australia is the third largest exporter of cotton in the
world (behind the US and India)
More than 1.25 billion kilograms of cottonseed
was produced in Australia in 2013/14 (source:
ABARES 2014)
Cotton lint contributes about 85% of the total income
from a cotton crop
ECONOMICS OF COTTON
IN AUSTRALIA
Australian cotton is sold into a highly globalised market,
competing against around 100 other cotton producing nations for
its share of global cotton trade
The Australian cotton industry has earned a reputation as a
reliable supplier, with fast shipping times to export destinations,
and reliable delivery
Australian cotton is in high demand and can attract a price
premium due to its high quality characteristics, reliability and a
proven track record in meeting manufacturer and
consumer needs
Australian cotton is of consistently high quality, almost zero
contamination and offers short shipping times from Australia’s
ports to Asian markets
Australian cotton is exported through ports in Brisbane, Sydney
and Melbourne
China, Indonesia, Thailand, Korea, Bangladesh, Vietnam and
Pakistan were the main markets for Australian cotton in 2013
(source: ABARES 2014)
Australia is the third largest exporter of cotton in the world (behind
the US and India)
More than 1.25 billion kilograms of cottonseed was produced in
Australia in 2013/14 (source: ABARES 2014). Australia exports
cottonseed to Japan (crushed and cattle feed), Korea (crushed),
China (crushed) and the USA (dairy feed) depending on parity
price and the value of the Australian dollar. Seed exports were
valued at AUD $255 in 2014 (source: Australian Grown Cotton
Sustainability Report 2014)
IMAGE: JOSH SMITH
ECONOMICS OF COTTON
IN AUSTRALIA
Over a five year average between 2009 and 2014, the Australian
cotton crop is worth AUD $2 billion annually, underpinning the
viability of 152 rural communities
Cotton growers sell their cotton to one of a number of
independent Australian merchants who then sell it into the
world’s markets, aiming to get the best price possible. It’s a very
competitive and transparent market
The price that a grower receives for each bale of cotton produced
is set by the world market which is dependent on a number of
factors including the state of the world economy, agricultural
politics, fashion trends, synthetic fibre price, weather, natural
disasters and cotton’s own supply and demand
Cotton prices have ranged from AUD $300 to $600/bale. The
all-time high was $758/bale in 1995 while the all-time low was
$233/bale in 1986. Prices were also very high in 2011 due to a
short term shortage of cotton in exportable locations, reaching an
average price of $664/bale. The average price for 2009-2014 has
been $396/bale. Between 2011 and 2014, prices have hovered
around $440/bale (source: Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability
Report 2014)
Cotton lint makes up about 42% of the picked cotton by weight,
and contributes about 85% of the total income from a cotton crop.
The other 15% of income is from cottonseed.
There is a forward market for cotton in Australia where growers
can sell their cotton at a fixed price, up to three years ahead
(source: Australian Cotton Shippers Association, Cotton
Conference Presentation 2012)
Australian cotton growers have an excellent reputation for good
business practice in the world market due to contract sanctity
and reliable counterparties and strict adherence to International
Cotton Association (ICA) rules
Australian cotton growers are market savvy, understand the
components that make up the price of their cotton, monitor
price movements and take action at price levels that suit their
businesses (source: Australian Cotton Shippers Association,
Cotton Conference Presentation 2012)
Six
14°
%
89
227
Generally, the growing season from planting to
picking lasts approximately six months
Cotton seed is planted in the spring as soon as the
soil is warm enough to be sure of satisfactory seed
germination and crop establishment (when the
temperature reaches 14 degrees three days in a row)
Australian cotton growers have reduced their
insecticide use by 89% over the last decade, with
some crops not sprayed for insects at all
The cotton lint is tightly pressed into bales. An
Australian cotton bale weighs 227kg (500 pounds)
COTTON
GROWING CYCLE
Cotton is a perennial plant grown commercially as an annual,
summer crop. It prefers hot summers with low humidity and a
maximum amount of sunshine
In general, cotton grows more quickly as the average daytime
temperature rises
Generally, the growing season from planting to picking lasts
approximately six months, as outlined below
Season start and finish times differ from north to south due to
variations in the climate
Cotton can be grown either as dryland (reliant on rainfall) or as
irrigated cotton (requiring supplemented water supply)
Australian cotton grower’s calendar
August to September: farm and
soil preparation
Growers select their cotton variety for the season. There are
a large number of varieties of cotton that can be selected and
grown. Varieties are generally chosen based on yield, quality,
disease resistance characteristics and biotechnology traits. But
other traits such as determinacy, leaf shape and season length
may also be important
Fields are levelled and graded
Soil prepared for planting, weeds removed, nutrients added if
necessary. Most growers now leave their cotton stubble standing
in the field and mulch it back into the soil to add valuable
nutrients
Soil moisture checked, pre-watering if necessary
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
COTTON
GROWING CYCLE
September to November: planting
Soil temperature checked
Cotton seed is planted in the spring as soon as the soil is warm
enough to be sure of satisfactory seed germination and crop
establishment (when the temperature reaches 14 degrees
Celsius at a depth of 10 cm for at least three days in a row)
Cotton seeds emerge from the ground within 5 to 10 days of
planting - depending on soil temperature and moisture
Growers usually choose to harvest the cotton crop once most
bolls have opened and fully matured. It is extremely important
that cotton is harvested dry, or discoloration may occur and
reduce quality
When mature, the crop is harvested mechanically and placed
into large modules. The modules are loaded onto trucks and
transported from the farm to a cotton gin (short for en-gin). Cotton
gins are factories that separate cottonseed and trash from the lint
(raw cotton fibre)
Refuge crops established
The cotton lint is tightly pressed into bales. An Australian cotton
bale weighs 227kg (500 pounds)
November to February: growing season
Once the cotton bales are ginned, pressed and containerised,
they are loaded on to trucks and trains and sent to port for
shipping, mostly to overseas markets
Squares (flower buds) develop several weeks after the plant
starts to grow, then flowers appear a few weeks later. The flowers
then drop, leaving a ripening seed pod that produces fruit, known
as bolls, after pollination
November to February: growing season
On irrigated cotton farms the initial irrigation (watering) is usually
followed by a further four to five irrigations, at two to three week
intervals, from mid-December to late-February. This differs
depending on the region and on natural rainfall levels
Cotton classing sorts the fibre into different quality based grades.
The better the fibre quality, the higher the grade and the more the
grower is paid for the cotton
Approximately fourth months of growing is needed for the cotton
bolls to ripen and split open
Growers rotate crops (such as cotton, maize and wheat) which
helps to minimise pests and diseases, reduce pesticide use,
retain soil moisture levels, build and maintain healthy soils, and
better manage soil nutrients. Some growers will graze livestock
over winter
Growers protect their crops from pests using Integrated Pest
Management (IPM). The use of biotechnology in cotton has
made a significant contribution in the dramatic reduction in
insecticides applied to Australian cotton crops. Australian cotton
growers have reduced their insecticide use by 89% over the last
decade, with some crops not sprayed for insects at all
Growers conserve natural enemies to pests (known as beneficial
insects) and manage their natural resources to help suppress
pests, which is at the heart of Integrated Pest Management
March to June: harvesting
Crop checked by agronomists to ensure it is ready to harvest
Defoliation is carried out to remove the plant’s leaves off and
crack bolls open
IMAGE: SOIL MOISTURE PROBE
Marketing activities undertaken
Growers make improvements and carry out maintenance onfarm to prepare for next season
52
m
1.5
30
mm
28
There are up to 52 species of cotton in the
Gossypium genus (source: The Biology of
Gossypium hirsutum L. and Gossypium barbadense
L. (cotton), 2008)
The cotton plant’s taproot reaches a depth of
1.5 metres
About 30 species of insects attack cotton plants, and
if not controlled can cause serious damage. The
main pests in Australia are the Helicoverpa caterpillar,
aphids, thrips, mirids and white fly
Each cotton boll usually contains 27-45 seeds.
Attached to each seed is between 10,000 – 20,000
tiny fibres about 28mm in length
COTTON PLANT
Cotton is a natural fibre that grows on a plant
The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions,
including the Americas, Africa, and India. The greatest diversity
of wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia
and Africa (source: The Biology of Gossypium hirsutum L. and
Gossypium barbadense L. (cotton), 2008)
Australian flora contains 17 native Gossypium species that are
all members of a distinct group found exclusively in Australia.
They are distant relatives of cultivated cottons (source: Fryxell
1979b; Fryxell 1992; Seelanan et al. 1999; Brubaker et al. 1999a;
Brubaker et al. 1999b)
There are up to 52 species of cotton in the Gossypium genus.
(source: The Biology of Gossypium hirsutum L. and Gossypium
barbadense L. (cotton), 2008). The most commercially grown
cotton species is Gossypium hirsutum, first developed by the
Mayan civilisation in Mexico
The cotton plant is a leafy, green shrub related to the hibiscus
Squares (flower buds) develop several weeks after the plant
starts to grow, then flowers appear a few weeks later. The flowers
then drop, leaving a ripening seed pod that becomes the cotton
boll (the fruit) after pollination
Cotton is grown commercially as an annual shrub and reaches
about 1.2 metres in height. Its leaves are broad and heart
shaped with coarse veins and 3-5 lobes. The plant has many
branches, with one main central stem
The cotton plant’s taproot reaches a depth of 1.5 metres
The plant also produces seeds that are contained in small
capsules surrounded by fibre hidden in the cotton bolls
IMAGE: JAMIE CONDON
COTTON PLANT
Each cotton boll usually contains 27-45 seeds. Attached to each
seed is between 10,000 – 20,000 tiny fibres about 28mm
in length
Cotton fibre is made from cellulose, has a thin coating of wax and
is thin and hollow like a straw
In general, cotton grows more quickly as the average daytime
temperature rises
Australia’s cotton growing season lasts approximately six months,
starting between August-November (soil preparation) and ending
between March-June (picking) – depending on the region
About 30 species of insects attack cotton plants, and if not
controlled can cause serious damage. The main pests in
Australia are the Helicoverpa caterpillar, aphids, thrips, mirids and
white fly
Cotton can be affected by a range of diseases that have the
potential to devastate the industry. The six most serious ones
are bacterial blight, Texas root rot, cotton leaf curl disease, blue
disease and exotic strains of Fusarium wilt and Verticillium wilt
(source: Innovative Disease Management, Karen A.
Kirkby, 2012)
A number of environmental factors can affect the growth of
cotton, particularly in the early stages, including heat shock, cold
shock, sand blasting, hail damage, lighting, drought and radiation
and water logging
All parts of the cotton plant are used. Cotton fibre is processed
into yarn and fabric, the seeds can be crushed for oil or animal
feed, the remaining plant is mulched and even the linters are
used to make products like cotton balls
More than 100 countries grow cotton (source: ICAC, 2014)
Cotton is grown between 45 degrees north and 35 degrees south
of the equator. (source: ICAC, 2012)
Cotton is the most widely produced natural fibre in the world
and represents about 31% of the world textile market (source:
Australian Grown Cotton Sustainability Report, 2014)
1
yrs
3
%
89
227
%
In 2010 organic cotton produced worldwide
amounted to a little over 1% of total cotton grown
(Source: ICAC 2011)
It can take more than three years for a farm to
receive organic certification
Australian cotton growers have reduced their
insecticide use by 89% over the last decade, with
some crops not sprayed for insects at all
The cotton lint is tightly pressed into bales. An
Australian cotton bale weighs 227kg (500 pounds)
ORGANIC COTTON
The term ‘organic’ refers to food and fibre farming and production
methods that are managed in accordance with organic standards
(Source: Australian Certified Organic, 2014) and is grown using
seeds that are not genetically modified
In 2010 organic cotton produced worldwide amounted to a little
over 1% of total cotton grown (Source: ICAC 2011)
In 2012-13, the largest organic cotton producers by volume were
India, China and Turkey, Tanzania and the United States (Source:
Textile Exchange, 2014)
In most countries where organic cotton is grown, conventional
and genetically modified cotton crops co-exists
Cotton grown without the use of synthetic chemicals is
considered ‘organic cotton’. Some organic cotton growers may
use natural crop management and protection tools such as
sulphur dust, citric acid, nitrogen, and zinc sulphate (Source:
ICAC, 2006)
It can take more than three years for a farm to receive
organic certification
Organic cotton farms can attract more pests (Source: University
of California, 2006) compared to transgenic or genetically
modified cotton crops that have in-built tolerance to some pests
Most organic standards take a number of factors into
consideration, including water and irrigation, soil, air, seeds,
machinery, and pest/weed control (Source: NASAA, 2004)
Organic production typically requires more human labour, land
and cost input than conventional production (source: European
Union, 2014 and ICAC, 2006)
ORGANIC COTTON
A six-year study of three cotton growing methods found that
organic cotton records lower yields than conventional cotton
growing methods (source: University of California, 2006)
Some organic certification processes are conducted from field to
fabric, and may include ginning and manufacturing
In some cases, organic cotton is processed using the same dyes,
fabrication and finishes as conventional cotton (unless stated on
the product label)
In Australia, more than half a dozen organisations manage
organic certification systems
Consumers can find organic cotton in a range of everyday items
ranging from make-up removal pads and cotton earbuds, to
denim and baby clothing
Products labelled ‘organic’ may contain varying percentages of
organic cotton
A small number of Australian cotton growers have experimented
with organic cotton in the past, but a number of factors have
prohibited it from entering long-term commercial production
in Australia
In 1993/94 for example, approximately 700 hectares of organic
cotton was grown in Australia under irrigated conditions at a
higher cost but with a low yield level of 685 kg/ha. Yield was low
mainly due to high insect damage and such a low yield level is
not economically sustainable under the highly mechanised…
system in Australia.” (source: ICAC, 1994)