Mar - The Orchid Society of Nova Scotia

Next Meeting: No regular March 2007 meeting.
Museum of Natural History.
at 0:00pm at the
No Regular Meeting for
March. The greenhouse
tour has been cancelled.
Due to some unavoidable complications,
the planned greenhouse/pot luck dinner
tour for the valley has had to be
cancelled. We look forward to possibly
having it at a later date.
------------------------------------------------There is something infinitely healing in the
repeated refrains of nature—
the assurance that dawn comes after night,
and spring after winter.’
Rachel Carson
------------------------------------------------
Words to Ponder
In This Issue:
Executive member list…….………….……....pg 2
Minutes of the Meeting……………………….pg 2
Member’s Corner…………………………..…pg 3
Dates to Remember………….…….……...…..pg 4
Things to take note of……….…...…….…..…pg 4
Information Corner……………………...…...pg 10
"Be kinder than necessary,
for everyone you meet is
fighting some kind of
battle."
----------------------If March comes in like a lion, it will go out
like a lamb.
If March comes in like a lamb, it will go
out like a lion.
--Old w eather saying
☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
Mailing address: Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History,
1747 Summer Street, Halifax, NS, Canada B3H 3A6
The O.S.N.S. was founded in 1981 and incorporated under the Nova
Scotia Societies Act.
Website: http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/Recreation/Orchidsns/
Cover photo of Arethusa bulbosa or
Dragon’s-Mouth Orchid. Taken at
Parkland Drive in Halifax on July 1st
2006 by John MacDonald. There were
lots around the pond and more than one
type of orchid as well.
OSNS Executive & Committees 2006/2007
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President:
Past President:
Vice President
Wayne Ward
Jean Allen-Ikeson
John MacDonald
582-7966
798-0514
443-6062
Treasurer/Membership
Secretary
Ruth Ann Moger
Newsletter Editor
Linda (Josey) MacDonald 477-2415
Social Coordinator:
Assistant Coordinator:
Pam Ferro
Ruth Ann Moger
Publicity:
Table Display:
Library:
Valerie Layne
John MacDonald
Tim Wohlsclagel
835-3911
443-6062
[email protected]
AOS/COC Rep:
Show Chair:
Assistant Show Chair
Gail Schwarz
Wayne Ward
860-0115
582-7966
[email protected]
[email protected]
Web Master
Renee Clark
826-2837
820-2368
826-2837
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
OSNS next General Meeting (at 2PM)
The Orchid Society of Nova Scotia will not be having a regular meeting at the museum this month. The
museum is booked for the March break season and our greenhouse tour had to be cancelled. Sorry to miss
everyone this month but we look forward to seeing you next month at the Spring show on March 31st – April 1st.
Make sure you get your plants ready for the show. It’s always a flower spectacular!!
Last month’s show on Dracula and Masdevallia from the AOS was great. I, myself, managed to learn some of
the obvious differences between the two species. We also got to see crosses from each variety as well as
crosses of the two. So much flower on so little a plant makes them very desirable. The plant table was great
considering it was a meeting with less people than usual. We will keep everyone posted if there are any changes
in the schedule.
Minutes of the OSNS Februay 2007 Meeting.
-Meeting called to order at 2:00pm
-Wayne Ward gave a talk on the different types of fertilizers and how they should be used. He recommended a
product called 'Seaboost' which is made from seaweed and available locally. He also talked about his and John's
quick trip to Ontario and how Peter Crozen grows orchids in clay pellets with modified pots. Net profit on the
plant sale was $1300.
-The Wolfville show will be on Feb. 24 (10-4) at the Irving Centre.
-The Spring Show will be on March 31 and April 1, but will not be a judged show this year. We may have some
sort of voting system to pick the best plants.
-Wayne is working on the possibility of ordering cymbidiums from Santa Barbara Orchids.
-There will be no meeting in March (March break at the Museum); instead we may have a tour of a couple of
greenhouses in the Valley. Watch your newsletter for more information on this.
-John MacDonald has a few books on Native Orchids of Newfoundland and is selling them for $15 each.
-John MacDonald moved and David Haldane seconded that OSNS donate $50 to the Orchid Society of
Manitoba as our COC contribution. Passed.
-Wayne Storrie presented a slide show on Draculas and Masdevallias.
-Wayne Ward did the plant table.
-Meeting adjourned at 3:30pm.
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Member’s Corner:
Book Review:
(John MacDonald has a couple of copies of this book if anyone is interested in having one.)
Guide to orchids of Newfoundland a labour of love
(found at http://herald.ns.ca/Living/561699.html)
By GARY KEAN Corner Brook Western Star
HUMBER VILLAGE, N.L. — Whether squelching through a bog or scrambling up a steep mountain, a Newfoundland
couple has discovered the thrill of spotting delicate wild orchids in unexpected places.
What had been a hobby for Andrus and Maria Voitk then turned into a labour of love as they compiled Orchids on
the Rock: The Wild Orchids of Newfoundland.
The field guide by the couple from Humber Village, N.L., about 25 kilometers from Corner Brook, is the first of its kind
on the interesting little flowers, which typically bloom for a short while in late June and early July.
The 96-page book contains some 150 colour photographs and outlines the 43 known species of orchids found in
Newfoundland, including a few "historical" orchids, which had been reported to exist but that no one has been able to
find for years.
In fact, one of those historical orchids provided one of the most exciting moments for the Voitks, who say there is a
fascinating story behind the search for almost every plant in the book.
After an unsuccessful weekend-long excursion to the northeastern shores of Serpentine Lake, accompanied by
botanists Michael Burzynski and Anne Marceau from the Gros Morne Co-operating Association, in search of the orchid
Goodyera oblongifolia, the Voitks serendipitously stumbled on the rare plant during a hike up the steep mountains
right behind their home on the Humber River.
The mere chance of unexpectedly finding the plant they had been searching for, said Andrus Voitk, shows that not
only are wild orchids perhaps more abundant than they know, but also that maybe there are even more than the 43
known species.
"I’m sure there are probably more out there," he said.
"If somebody had not found that (Goodyera oblongifolia) in Serpentine years ago and reported it, we wouldn’t have
known it was in Newfoundland and we wouldn’t have been looking for it."
Newfoundland, considered the southernmost range of some northern orchids and the northernmost for a number
found more abundantly in southern regions, is a bit of a hot spot for botanists from all around the world.
Many of the orchids found on the island, though found in other parts of northern Europe, are not found anywhere else
in North America. For instance, the lone place on the continent where Pseudorchis albida, known as the Newfoundland
orchid, is found is the Northern Peninsula’s limestone barrens.
For the Voitks, who study plants only as a hobby and will soon release a field guide on Newfoundland mushrooms,
publishing the orchid field guide was truly a labour of love. They had lots of help from many people who gave them
tips on where to find certain species, some locations being revealed only on the condition these special places be
sworn to absolute secrecy.
"The quest took us three summers and we must have covered between 8,000 and 10,000 kilometers," said Maria
Voitk.
"We would go and search a bog for five hours and find nothing and have to come back three days later because
maybe we were too early and they weren’t blooming. It was like looking for a needle in a haystack sometimes. . . .
But it was very exciting to finally find it."
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The field guide will soon be available for purchase. The Voitks have donated the book and any proceeds that it
generates to the Gros Morne Co-operating Association for the help that organization offered.
Copies may be ordered by calling the association at 709-458-3610 or by e-mail at grosmorne.infopc.gc.ca.
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Dates to Remember:
( Below Dates taken from the November 2006 issue of the COC.)
2007
•
March 10-11: Orchid Society of the Royal Botanical Gardens, 680 Plains Rd., Burlington "http://www.osrbg.ca/" Show
chair is Ben Boers, email [email protected]
•
March 17 - 18: London Orchid Society at the Western Fair Special Events Building, London, Ontario
http://los.lon.imag.net/
•
March 19-24: Orchid International Orchid Conservation Congress San José, Costa Rica
http://www.jardinbotanicolankester.org/ing/index.html
•
March 24-25: Les Orchidophilesde Montreal Orchidexpo 2007 College de Maisonneuve, 2700 Bourbonniere St.,
Montreal http://orchidophiles.qc.ca/
•
March 23-25: The Manitoba Orchid Society is hosting the COC Annual Meeting in conjunction with the "Orchid
Fascination" Annual Show and Sale. http://www.manitobaorchidsociety.ca/default.htm
•
March 31 - April 1: The Orchid Society of Nova Scotia at the Nova Scotia Museum of Science, Halifax.
http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/Recreation/OrchidSNS/
•
March 31 - April 1: The Regina Orchid Society at the Core Ritchie Community Centre, 445 14th Avenue, Regina.
Contact: [email protected] or [email protected]
•
April 13-14: Central Vancouver Island Orchid Society at the Country Club Center, Nanaimo, BC.
http://members.shaw.ca/CVIOS/CVIOS/
•
April 14-15:Les Orchidophiles de Quebec http://cf.geocities.com/orchidophilesqc/
•
April 28-29: The Ottawa Orchid Society Nepean Sportsplex, 1701 Woodroffe Avenue, Nepean, Ontario.
http://www.ottawaorchidsociety.com
•
May 5-6: The Vancouver Orchid Society 50th annual show at the Richmond Winter Club, 5540 Hollybridge Way,
Richmond BC. Contact Maureen Renton [email protected] Or Bill Bischoff [email protected]
"http://www.vancouverorchidsociety.ca/"
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Things to take note of:
Canada Blooms in March
Canada Blooms, Saturday March 10, 2007 at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre in Toronto, Ontario Canada
Blooms is Canada’s largest horticultural exhibition. This year the event runs March 7 to 11, 2007. Covering over six
acres, Canada Blooms offers the public spectacular display gardens, over 200 vendors, plus hours of demonstrations,
seminars, lectures and workshops. For more information about Canada Blooms visit www.canadablooms.com
5
AOS JUDGED SHOW for the OSNS - MARCH 1 & 2, 2008
I am thrilled to announce that we will be having an AOS judged show on March 1 & 2/08. The executive has
been thinking about it for awhile now but we were having trouble coming up with a date. You are probably
wondering why we chose March. It is very difficult to get a date that doesn't conflict with big shows in Ontario
and Quebec, and the Judging Center in Toronto has to approve the date. There are more opportunities in the fall
but we don't have as many plants in flower then and it would be a really small show. Unfortunately April is out
of the question. There is judging at the Center the first weekend and there are big shows every other weekend.
We wouldn't be able to get judges. We can't even get one judge to come this April because they are so busy. We
could have it in May but then it gets a little late in the season and, if the weather is warm, we won't get the
crowds coming in. March 1 is the judging date at the Toronto Judging Center but Mario Ferrusi has approved
the date for us and has said we could have some judges from Toronto. He has also agreed to be our head judge.
Annette Bagby has also agreed to come. We will have an easier time getting judges because it's the beginning of
the heavy judging season and the judges won't be worn out! I know there is potential for bad weather but
Edmonton has their show in February and Winnipeg has their show in March. If we can't get the judges in on
the Friday then we will bring them in on Saturday and judge on Sunday.
I hope everyone will support this show. We have a lot of good growers here and it is a wonderful opportunity
for us. We have plenty of time to plan and save for the event. We are hoping to bring some of the judges in
using Aeroplan points and we are also hoping members will offer to put the judges up in their homes.
PLEASE DON'T THINK YOUR PLANTS AREN'T GOOD ENOUGH FOR AOS JUDGING. MARIO HAS
SAID THAT ABOUT 80% OF FLOWER QUALITY AWARDS IS DUE TO CULTURE AND NOT
GENETICS. THIS SPRING AND SUMMER WILL BE A GREAT TIME TO REPOT YOUR ORCHIDS
AND GET RID OF ANY UNWANTED PESTS. A HEALTHY HAPPY PLANT PRODUCES BIGGER AND
BETTER FLOWERS AND ALSO GETS THE JUDGES ATTENTION!
Gail Schwarz
Show Coordinator
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This Spring Plant Display for the OSNS!!! March 31st – April 1st 2007
Don’t miss out on this year’s Spring Show. It will not be a judged show this year but that won’t change how
spectacular it always is. There are many people who can’t wait till our spring show every year so they can
come and see our wonderful display. Because it is not being judged, we will be having a vote for best plants in
the show in different categories. The public will be able to choose the orchid they like the most. We expect the
show to be as wonderful as always so make sure you get your plants ready for a show!!!
Show preparations:
- make sure you clean off plants and stake the flower spikes so they present well.
- Consider a basket display of your own, or with someone else if you feel you want more plants.
- Set up will be Friday night at the museum, no long line ups as plants don’t have to be registered this
time. You can just bring your plant and help put it in the display.
- Always make sure your plants are pest free so as not to transfer something unwanted to other plants.
- If you have a number of plants, displays are most welcome.
As usual with a weekend show, lots of volunteers will be needed to help out. We will be asking that people
volunteer to help with set up and take down, to help out at the door and with the society sales table, and with
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food donations for those who spend the whole weekend at the show making it happen. We will be in need of
sandwiches and sweets or fruit and drinks. All donations are most welcome.
More about the spring show will be in the next newsletter so please make sure you read it for any changes or
necessary details.
The best part of our show is that this year it will have informative programs over both days for the public to
attend and learn from. It is most wonderful that on Sunday, April 1st Neville MacKay from My Mother’s
Bloomers will be visiting again with an arrangement demonstration and a raffle afterwards of all he creates.
This is always a great show that’s packed with everyone attending to see what Neville creates. It’s always a lot
of fun.
Gardening Tips from the Almanac
Weather Folklore:
MARCH 1 -- ST. DAVID'S DAY
•
This day commemorates the patron saint of Wales, St. David, who was born in the sixth century at
Henfynw, Cardigan. His symbol is the leek, which is said to have protected him in combat and was worn by his
countrymen to distinguish them from their Saxon enemies during battle. In honor of St. David, plant a bulb of
aromatic leek as soon as the ground can be worked, or make one of the recipes in this newsletter that includes
leeks.
MARCH 3 -- FULL WORM MOON
•
This marks the time when the ground begins to soften and earthworm casts reappear. This Moon
is also known as the Sap Moon, marking the time when the maple sap begins to flow and the
annual tapping of maple trees begins.
MARCH 3 -- TOTAL LUNAR ECLIPSE
•
As the full Moon rises at sunset, the eclipse is already under way. The eclipse is visible throughout the
continental United States and Canada, except in the westernmost regions.
MARCH 11 -- DAYLIGHT SAVING TIME BEGINS
•
Daylight Saving Time has been used on and off, with different start and end dates. Currently,
Daylight Saving Time begins at 2:00 A.M. on the second Sunday of March and ends at 2:00 A.M. on
the first Sunday in November. Don't forget to turn your clocks ahead one hour.
So many mists in March we see,
So many frosts in May will be.
A peck of March dust is worth a king's ransom.
The March sun lets snow stand on a stone.
Better to be bitten by a snake than to feel the sun in
March.
In March much snow,
To plants and trees much woe.
7
Wit and Wisdom from the Old Farmers Almanac:
Help With Spring-Cleaning
It's almost time for spring-cleaning, and we have some tips that will make your chores a breeze.
To remove white water spots on leather, cover them with a thick coat of petroleum jelly. Leave
the petroleum jelly in place for about a day, then wipe it off with a soft cloth.
Here's a way to clean the filter in your dryer. First use an old toothbrush to remove any lint. Then
soak the filter in vinegar overnight and rinse it with water.
Before you start to vacuum, put a few drops of lemon juice into the dust bag. It will make the house smell fresh.
Yellowed linens can be brightened with denture-cleaning tablets. Dissolve tablets (according to package
directions) in a sink or washbasin of warm water. Add the stained linens and soak until the discoloration is gone.
Wash as usual.
For homemade cleaner recipes, see below. (these household cleaner articles found at www.almanac.com )
WARNING: Never mix cleaning products containing bleach and ammonia as dangerous fumes will
result.
OVEN CLEANER
2 tablespoons dishwashing liquid
2 teaspoons borax
1/4 cup ammonia
1-1/2 cups warm water
Mix the ingredients together, apply to oven spills, and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Scrub with an abrasive nylonbacked sponge and rinse well.
GENERAL-PURPOSE CLEANER
1 teaspoon borax
1/2 teaspoon washing soda
2 teaspoons vinegar
1/4 teaspoon dishwashing liquid
2 cups hot water
Combine all the ingredients. If you don't have washing soda (generally found in the laundry section of
supermarkets), use 1 teaspoon baking soda instead. For a more pleasant smell, use lemon juice instead of
vinegar. Be sure to label the bottle accordingly.
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EASY SCRUB
3/4 cup baking soda
1/4 cup borax
dishwashing liquid
Combine the baking soda and borax. Mix in enough dishwashing liquid to make
a smooth paste. If you prefer a pleasant smell, add 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice to
the paste.
JEWELRY CLEANER
1/4 cup ammonia
1/4 cup dishwashing liquid
3/4 cup water
Mix all the ingredients well, then soak your jewelry in the solution for a few
minutes. Clean around the stones and designs with a soft-bristle toothbrush.
Buff dry. (Caution: Don't use this with gold-plated jewelry; with soft stones
such as pearls, opals, or jade; or with costume jewelry, because it could ruin the
plastics or loosen the glue.)
HEAVY-DUTY DISINFECTANT CLEANER
1/4 cup powdered laundry detergent
1 tablespoon borax
3/4 cup hot water
1/4 cup pine oil, or pine-based cleaner
Slowly stir the detergent and borax into the water to dissolve. Add the pine oil
(available at hardware stores and supermarkets) and mix well. For bathroom
cleaning, use the mixture full strength. In the kitchen, dilute it with water.
WOOD FLOOR POLISH
1/2 cup vinegar
1/2 cup vegetable oil Mix the ingredients well, rub on the floor, and buff with a
clean, dry cloth.
Polishing Cloths
You can make your own
polish-impregnated
cloths to dust furniture.
Pour some furniture
polish into a large glass
jar and shake it until the
sides are coated. Pour
the remainder of the
polish back into the
polish container. Place
terry or other absorbent
cloths in the jar and
cover tightly. Leave
overnight or until the
cloths have absorbed all
the polish. Store the
cloths in the jar.
Here's another method
for making polishing
cloths. Add 1/4 cup
polish (such as lemon
oil) to 2 cups hot water.
Mix well. Soak dust
cloths in the mixture,
then let them dry before
using. Save the mixture
in a glass jar. When the
cloths become soiled,
wash them, re-treat
them, and use again.
RUG CLEANER
1/4 teaspoon dishwashing liquid
1 cup lukewarm water
Combine the ingredients. Use a spray bottle to apply the solution over a large area, or use the solution to spotclean nongreasy stains. (Don't use laundry detergent or dishwasher detergent in place of dishwashing liquid, as
they may contain additives that can affect the rug's color.)
TOILET CLEANER
1 cup borax
1/4 cup vinegar or lemon juice
Combine the ingredients to make a paste. Apply it to the inside of the toilet bowl, let sit for 1 to 2 hours, and
scrub.
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MILDEW REMOVER
1 tablespoon powdered laundry detergent
1 quart chlorine bleach
2 quarts water
Combine all the ingredients in a pail. Wearing rubber gloves, wash off the mildew.
FLOOR WAX REMOVER
1 cup laundry detergent
3/4 cup ammonia
1 gallon warm water
Mix all the ingredients together and apply to a small area of the floor. Let the solution sit long enough for it to
loosen the old wax, at least 5 to 10 minutes. Mop up the old wax (or scrape it up, if there's a lot of it, using a
squeegee and a dustpan). Rinse thoroughly with 1 cup vinegar in 1 gallon water and let dry before applying a
new finish.
FURNITURE POLISH
1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice
1 tablespoon boiled linseed oil
1 tablespoon turpentine
Combine the ingredients in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake until blended. Dampen a cloth with cold
water and wring it out until it's as dry as you can get it. Saturate the cloth with the mixture and apply sparingly
to a small area at a time. Let dry for about 30 minutes, then polish with a soft cloth. Note that this mixture gets
gummy as it sits, so make just enough for one day's work.
GLASS CLEANER
2 tablespoons ammonia
1/2 cup alcohol
1/4 teaspoon dishwashing liquid
a few drops blue food coloring
water
Combine the ammonia, alcohol, dishwashing liquid, and food coloring, then add enough water to make 1 quart.
If you prefer a nonammoniated cleaner, substitute 3 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice for the ammonia.
CARPET FRESHENER
1 cup crushed dried herbs (such as rosemary, southernwood, or lavender)
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons baking soda
Combine all the ingredients in a large jar or other container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to blend. Sprinkle
some of the mixture on your carpet, let it sit for an hour or so, and then vacuum it up. It will give the room a
pleasant smell and neutralize carpet odors.
Excerpted from Clean & Simple by Christine Halvorson and Kenneth M. Sheldon. Copyright 1999 by Yankee
Publishing, Inc. From "The Old Farmer's Almanac Home Library" series published by Time-Life Books; call
800-277-8844, or check your local bookstore.
10
Information Corner:
Paphiopedilums - a good choice for novice and
experienced growers
By Gary Hart, Photos: Gary Hart
Paphiopedilum species are largely found in tropical Asia. They exist in scattered populations across a wide range of terrain
and seasonal climatic conditions. There have been many name changes over the years as differing taxonomists "split" species
up or "lump" them together.
I have grown most of the available species and find they do best when grouped in four broad microclimates.
If you can reproduce these conditions they will grow well for you with annual flowering and abundant growth.
The first grouping I grow under the same conditions are the Parvisepalum (armeniacum, delenatii,malipoense, micranthum,
emersonii, hangianum and vietnamense) and Paphiopedilum (hirsutissimum,charlesworthii, insigne, helenae, barbigerum,
villosum, jairrieanum, spicerianum etc) sections. I find they both enjoy a lot of air movement, and definitely flower well when
given a cool/cold period during winter.
The first grouping I grow under the same conditions are the Parvisepalum (armeniacum, delenatii,malipoense, micranthum,
emersonii, hangianum and vietnamense) and Paphiopedilum (hirsutissimum,charlesworthii, insigne, helenae, barbigerum,
villosum, jairrieanum, spicerianum etc) sections.
I find they both enjoy a lot of air movement, and definitely flower well when given a cool/cold period during winter.
As a result I grow them in a fibreglass roofed bush house all year. Minimum winter temperatures go as low as 5°C and in
summer as high as 35°C.
It is my experience that the poor flowering so many growers experience with Paph. micranthum and Paph. armeniacum is
largely due to mild winter temperatures. I find that if I grow these in the glasshouse they grow and survive well but rarely
flower. They also seem to respond to a great variety of light conditions.
The second group I grow in a small microenvironment are the Brachypetalum (bellatulum, concolor,godefroyae, niveum)
section.
11
12
13
14
They like a little winter warmth, good air movement, and most importantly, a definite dry
winter rest. So many have been lost through infection in the wet, cold winter months.
The secret is to largely keep the hose away from them for a few cold weeks in winter. It is hard
to do ... but it works!
Regular repotting when in growth is greatly beneficial to this group. They lose roots very
quickly when over-watered and when the mix breaks down and the air space between your potting
medium is reduced. Repot every 18 months to two years.
Light conditions can also vary greatly. However, when in full growth they like long periods of
good suffused light (I use 70 per cent shade cloth all year.
The third group are basically called the mottled leafed Paphiopedilums and are largely from the
Barbata (mastersianum, tonsum, barbatum, callosum, lawrenceanum, superbiens, sukhakulii, venustum
etc) section.
They like shaded, suffused light with a little
winter warmth.
I grow them in the glasshouse on the lower
benches, with the larger Paphiopedilum species growing
above them on higher shelves and in hanging pots. In
these conditions I find they grow all year and flower
regularly.
The fourth and final group are the large growing
multifloral and sequential flowering Paphiopedilum
species that make up the Coryopedilum (philippinense,
sanderianum, stonei, rothschildianum etc),
Pardalopetalum (haynaldianum, lowii, parishii etc) and
Cochlopetalum (glaucophyllum, liemianum, primulinum
etc) sections.
They all grow in my glasshouse on the top shelves
or in hanging pots. They receive the first rays of light
coming through the 70 per cent cloth over the house and
when in full growth love to be fed well and "pushed
along".
I do not give them a lot of winter heat, but am
convinced they would grow more consistently throughout
the year with a little winter warmth.
Repot them regularly, give them good light all
year, and do not divide them up into too small a clump
when repotting. They will often sulk and you will wait years
for them to reflower if you get too greedy when dividing.
Paphiopedilum parishii and Paph. lowii can be grown
mounted and I find they do well on tree fern and in teak baskets suspended from the roof.
As you can see there is a Paphiopedilum species that would suit all orchid growers. When the right
conditions are provided they are one of the most trouble free of all orchids to grow.
We all have a responsibility to keep some species orchids in our collections for the future to enjoy.
Paphiopedilums are a good choice for both the experienced and novice grower.
Orchids Australia, April 2002
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15
Plants feeling under the weather?
Give them aspirin water!
by By Marion Owen, Fearless Weeder for PlanTea, Inc. and
April 1, 2005
"Take two aspirin and call me in the morning."
We've all heard that advice from doctors. And moms have been dispensing this all-purpose cure-all to their
families as a standard way of providing relief from headaches and sniffles, muscle aches and joint pain.
Then it should be no surprise to learn how an important aspirin ingredient--salicylic acid--is being used as an
Earth-friendly first aid for warding off plant diseases.
Meet Martha McBurney, the master gardener in charge of the demonstration vegetable garden at the University
of Rhode Island. Last summer she tested aspirin water on tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, basil and other plants
after reading about it in a gardening publication called the Avant Gardener (PO Box 489, New York, NY 10028
$24 per year). The results were well, astonishing...
"What caught my eye in the original Avant Gardener article was it said that aspirin is an activator of 'systemic
acquired Resistance' (SAR). And that plants, when under stress, naturally produce salicylic acid, but not fast
enough and in sufficient quantities to really help them out in time. So the bugs get them, and diseases get them,
and they show even more stress.
"But if you give them aspirin, it helps boost their immune system, kind of like feeding people echinacea so they
don't get a cold.
How much, and how often
The dosage that Martha used was 1.5 [uncoated] aspirins to 2 gallons of water. She also added 2 tablespoons of
yucca extract to help the aspirin water stick to the leaves better. (The yucca extract can be substituted with a
mild liquid soap.) Martha explained that the yucca (or soap) prevents the aspirin water from beading up and
rolling off leaves of broccoli and kale leaves. Finally, she sprayed the plants every 3 weeks.
The summer when Martha first started testing aspirin water, was not the best, weather-wise. It was cool, rainy
and damp. "But what happened was, by the end of the season, the plants in the raised beds with the aspirin
water looked like they were on steroids!
"The plants were huge, and green and with no insects. We even saw some disease problems that reversed
themselves. We think we got a virus on the cucumbers, and they aspirin water seemed to reverse it. The
cucumbers ended up being very healthy."
Aspirin improves seed germination
Martha also sprayed the aspirin water on the seeds they directly sowed in the ground. The result, they
discovered was 100 percent seed germination, compared to spotty germination in the other trial beds.
Scientists at the University of Arizona and with the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), curious about
findings such as what Martha experienced, are studying how salicylic acid prods plants into releasing their
natural defenses against harmful fungi, bacteria and viruses. According to an article by Dean Fosdick of the
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Associated Press, "They envision it as a commercially viable alternative to synthetic pesticides in a natural way
to extend the life of susceptible yet popular crops."
Is it organic? Well, not really. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) is 'derived' from the white willow tree, Salix alba.
Studies are now being conducted on plants using pure willow extracts to compare the effects to aspirin.
Cut flowers that last forever?
Well, not quite. But current research may explain a modern-old wives' tale of adding an aspirin to a vase of cut
flower to keep the blooms fresh longer. Here's the explanation: The cutting of flowers is perceived by the plant
as a wound, and so it stimulates the production of a substance that not only helps the plant fight off bugs, but
also hastens aging or wilting, such as in the case of a cut flower.
Aspirin halts the formation of the substance, which in turn, keeps the flowers looking young and not wilting
prematurely. (For more helpful tips about keeping cut flowers looking fresh, naturally, click here).
Scientists laughed, at first
Plants weren't the only things affected by the aspirin water. At first, scientists at the University of Rhode Island
gave Martha a bad time about her experiments. Teased her, mostly. But by the end of the summer, they were so
impressed that they are now conducting their own formal investigations.
"I've recommended it to just about everybody. The people who've tried it, that is, people who grow from oats to
orchids, have found that plants do remarkably better when given small amounts of aspirin water. I've tried it on
my houseplants, and it does really well. Plants are more vigorous and I'm having fewer problems with aphids
and the typical things that can build up on houseplants over the winter."
"Uh, Martha," I broke in. "My husband is losing his hair. Maybe I should try aspirin water."
Martha didn't miss a beat. "Well, hey, you could give it a go!"
So the next time your plant is looking a little feverish or flushed, consider reaching for some aspirin for treating
what ails it.
Above Article found on website www.iCanGarden.com
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Helpful Hints for Watering Mounted Orchids
Mounted orchids often require more frequent watering than potted orchids, and as a general rule should never
be allowed to dry out completely. In the February 1992 issue of “Orchids,” this tip was given to make sure your
mounted treasures are never thirsty.
First find a sturdy container that will hold water, such as a plastic milk container. Suspend this “reservoir”
over the plant making sure you mount it securely. Next, take a length of 1/8th inch flexible aquarium tubing and
use it as a siphon from the reservoir to the orchid. Use an adjustable tubing clamp on the siphon to regulate the
number of drips delivered to the plant – many tubing clamps have a threaded thumb wheel mechanism that will
allow precise control of the flow rate. Position the “delivery” end of the tubing securely above the orchid’s
roots. Remember, you don’t need to get the entire plant wet, just the mount and the roots. With a little
adjusting, you should be able to get the drip rate such that the plant’s roots never dry out, but you don’t end up
with a puddle of water on the floor. The flow rate may need readjusting as environmental conditions change,
increasing or decreasing water evaporation and usage. (article found in COOS Jan. 2007)
17
Plant Table for Previous Meeting:
(please excuse any errors in spelling…)
Paph Copper Spice
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Phrag Andean Fire
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Blc Nobile’s Bruno Bruno
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Sc Royal Beau “Prince”
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Zxgp (innomate)(Brookside)
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Blc Yellow Bird
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Phal Schilleriana
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Lycasti Pamela Curran-Brady
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Alicearea mem Jay Yamada “Kauai #2”
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Oncidium Bartley Schwarz
Bob & Gail Schwarz
Greenhouse
Cymbidium Ming Pagoda
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Tolomnia Easter OKA ‘Rudy storm’
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Tolomnia Jairuk Rainbow
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Tolomnia Phyllis Envy ‘Ruby Queen’
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
SLC Love Angel C Bright Angel x LC
loveknot
C Ruth Gee “Whilikers” HCC AOS x BC
Liano
Den Nobile
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Wayne & Wayne
Greenhouse
Oerstedella centradena x same
Ruth Ann Moger
Windowsill
Osmoglossum puchellum
Ruth Ann Moger
Windowsill
Paph Sheila Hanes #2 x Kay Rinnaman
‘Green Dyna’
Paph ‘Proud Tudor’
Barry Langille
Windowsill
Barry Langille
Windowsill
Den Tenellum
Barry Langille
Windowsill
☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺☺
Submissions for the Newsletter:
If there is anything any member would like published in the newsletter, the dates for submission are the 25th
of each month. They can be emailed to me or sent snail mail to Linda MacDonald, 18 Bryden Ave. Halifax,
N.S. B3P 1H2. All suggestions and comments are most welcome. Please feel free to contact me at any time.