MODS IN MOTOR CITY Hochschule der Medien Stuttgart Marc Calmbach, 11020 Journalistische Arbeitsgrundlagen Professor Stephan Ferdinand MODERN STYLE: STUTTGART THE SOUL STYLISTS In the early sixties a lifestyle evolved for young people that was mysterious, exciting and fast-moving. It was directed from within and needed no justification from without. Kids were cloth-obsessed, cool, dedicated to R&B and their own dances. They called themselves Modernists or simply Mods. After more than 40 years of existence the movement is currently experiencing a wondrous revival amongst some young folks in Stuttgart. Clean living under difficult circumstances A new generation, a new direction? There’s probably no other youth culture that is so spired by the Skiffle In the late sixties/early seventies the Hippie cultu- pedantic and has such an eye for details when it and crazes, re was popular amongst many young people and comes to style. The words that continually crop up identified with any- for a couple of years there was a weak interest in when trying to pinpoint Mods include cool, neat, thing then conside- ‘the birth of cool’ known as Mod. Also many of the sharp, hip and smart. The original sixties Mods red new, exciting, original Mod bands like The Who grew their hair evolved from kids growing up in that uncertain, controversial and and wrote seven minute songs with bad guitar semi-affluent, pivotal period of postwar late fifties modern Italian solos. The resurgence of the English Mod move- Britain. They were reacting against its repressed, espresso bars, spa- ment at the end of the seventies gave rise to a class-obsessed, old maids, warm beer, cold-water ghetti bolognaise, completely different specie of the proper sixties naffness. These were the mind-numbingly empty moulded plastic, the version. In fact, it bore hardly any resemblance to b&w pre-Beatles dark ages where teenagers, a hovercraft, it all. It was nowhere near as stylish for a start, nor species that hadn’t existed until the fifties, were scooters and French simply not catered for. Popular songs still dwelt on movies. Music-wise over-sentimental ‘billing and cooing’ and bloated they aligned with dedicated, and above all, as inventive and energetic romance hadn’t yet been replaced by blatant sex. the more sophisticated smoother modern jazz as the original Modernists have been. Paul Weller However it was all about to change. sounds of artists like the Modern Jazz Quartet or whose group The Jam celebrated several No.1- A handful of discerning British school kids, bored Dave Brubeck and of course American R&B/Soul Hits in the late seventies/ early eighties was a key by the faulty pap that was fifties pop and unin- music. But soon the scene produced its own figure for the second wave mods. He is still around bands that would have an everlasting impact on doing solo gigs in front of all generations of Mods. trad – Italian was it as complex or for that matter very popular. The Rolling Stones, 1964 However, its devotees were every bit as obsessive, the music world: The Rolling Stones, The Who, The Small Faces to name only a few. With the rise of Britpop in the early nineties the third wave of Mods appeared and it is still gaining Mod was an attitude and a belief in a way of life, more and more devotees. Since the political, eco- spawned in direct opposition to the drabness of nomical and sociocultural conditions have signifi- the real world. Mods have been constantly descri- cantly changed over the past decades, it is need- bed as a working-class phenomenon but it was less to say that nowadays the reasons for beco- more of a working-class reaction against authori- ming a Mod are hardly the same than in the early ty. In the late Seventies the Punk movement had a days of the movement. But anyway the enthusi- similar point of view but in contrast to the Mods, asm of its members remains unbroken. If one Punks expressed their rebellion by looking rotten takes a closer look at the subculture of Stuttgart and provocative. Mods, however, had the entire he/she can find stores, clubs and events that per- arsenal of capitalist upper-class elegance in their fectly capture the fascination of the Mod spirit. working-class hands. Somehow they took away Since the Mod style includes fashion, music, furni- what theoretically didn’t belong to them. Their clo- ture, haircuts etc. there are plenty of places that thes have come to symbolize their independence are worth checking out. from the old idea of a life based on a successful Paul Weller, 1978 career. London Mods, 1965 2 3 All dressed up... The In Sound. The number one address in Stuttgart for authentic Besides fashion the second main form of expres- obsessively for original records. Money often mod fashion is the the second hand store sion for mods is music. Mods are as fastidious doesn’t matter. They rather spend 40 Euro on one Gewand. 35-year old owner Lisa Oechsle speciali- about their music as they are about their clothes. original LP than on four reissues. They are purists ses in used sixties clothes and supplies the style Luckily for them, they can choose between two and want the real thing, not the imitation.” For junkies with new old outfits. She likes the mods excellent record stores in Stuttgart: Vinyl West and Tom Baeurle, owner of Vinyl West, it’s no surprise not only because they are frequent customers, but Second Hand Records. Similar to the clothes there’s that that many mod kids are popular DJs in the also because they share the same enthusiasm: nothing cooler than finding an old, original second local clubs:” You know, soul music got pretty big “The mod way of life consists of a total devotion hand vinyl record (CDs are everything but hip and here in Stuttgart. I mean ‘big’ in terms of being the to looking and being cool. So like most people therefore totally rejected). Since both record sto- hip music in the cooler, more underground clubs. who base their lives on style, they are rather glo- res predominantly have used vinyl in stock they Since mods regularly buy great dance records, it’s riously unaffected cynics about everything else”. are the Mecca for every music lover and moder- only a logical consequence that they spin them”. Asking her how to best describe the mod fashion, nist. Both stores have a massive soul, jazz and sixi- she discerns a certain uniformisation. “In all youth ties section. Asking Michael Paukner, employee at cultures it is important for its members to be Second Hand Records, about the mod’s music recognized as part of their movement. Clothes taste, he replies:”Definitely sixties American soul usually play the most important role. If someone music. We got plenty of people here searching came into my store and asked for a mod outfit, I would sell him a tight suit, a button-down shirt, a pair of old bowling shoes and an army parka. Plus, I’d recommend him a hairdresser that cuts Perry- Lisa Oechsle, Gewand Store, Stuttgart Como-Haircuts”. ...with somewhere to go. A very popular mod hangout is a club called HI in downtown Stuttgart. The venue used to be a table dance bar and it is still furnished with sleezy red light district mirrored walls, separees and chrome bars. They regularly play soul music and have DJs from all over Germany and beyond. Every last Friday of the month they organize so called “Allnighters”. Allnighters are parties that last from dusk til dawn and are attended by lots of mods and sixties fanatics. Just recently the HI Club hosted the annual Soul Marathon, an event that draws modernists from all over Germany to rock the dancefloor three nights straight. 4 Vinyl West, Stuttgart 5 The In Crowd. For the mods their culture has always been the trend but history that is unclosed and forever essence of cool and it is one of the few readily moving on: “Of all teenage movements, the mod embraced by different generations. Their values cult can probably be considered as the only one have transcended their early sixties origins an are that years later can be looked back on without any rediscovered and renewed in mod revivals – just embarrassement. Perhaps youth revolutions should like in Stuttgart nowadays. It is silently rebellious come with a health warning: The participant should in lots of ways and outside politics and mainstre- show some vigilance as he/she might be making am culture. One can notice a certain friendly arro- complete prat of himself/herself and live to regret gance when the local Mods talk about their move- it in later life. Mods had no humiliating beads, ment. Maybe that’s part of their chic, too. bondage pants, mowhawk haircuts, flares or trak- Designer Pejo Babic, one of the first mods ever to ksuits to damage their credibility”. appear in this town, has unique explanation why modernism for its devotees is not only a current 6 What else there is to add? 00
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