Travel Guide Houston 02 Quick view 05 Top 10 sights 12 Hotels 02 USA 08 Shopping in Houston 14 The great journey 03 Travel etiquette 08 Restaurants 04 Health 09 Nightlife 05 Phone calls & Internet 10 Calendar of events © lightkey LH.com/travelguide Houston 01/18 Travel Guide Houston 02 Quick view Houston – a brief overview Houston is a Texan city through and through, a super-sized, leather-booted, oilfinanced metropolis with a swagger in its stride. Rodeos and barbecues? You’re in the right place. It might not be the most beautiful city in the USA, but it’s certainly one of the largest (only New York, Los Angeles and Chicago are bigger) and its size translates into everything from a buzzing arts scene to a hard-hitting nightlife. Expect to encounter a heady dose of Southern hospitality, a full-to-bursting events calendar and a genuinely absorbing history, stretching from the Civil War to the Space Race. USA General Information Country overview From its vast plains, snow-covered mountains, deep forests and strange rock formations, to soaring skyscrapers and a thunderous cultural scene, the USA is a collage of extremes. Nothing can prepare you for your first glimpse of Manhattan's unforgettable skyline, your first ride in a yellow cab, the ubiquitous hamburger joints, yawning expanses of prairie, the sweet strains of New Orleans jazz, or the neon-lit excesses of Las Vegas. Marvel at the thunderous spectacle of 12,000-year-old Niagara Falls in northern New York, or seek an antidote to urban chaos amidst the flat farmland of the Midwest. Then there are the black hills of South Dakota, the dramatic mountain and ocean landscape of California's Pacific Coast Highway and the world-famous Grand Canyon. Geography Covering a large part of the North American continent, the USA shares borders with Canada to the north and Mexico to the south. The country has coasts on the Atlantic, Pacific and Arctic oceans, the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico. The State of Alaska, in the northwest corner of the US, is not part of the continental US; it is separated from the rest of the USA by Canada. Similarly, Hawaii is not part of the “lower 48” states; it lies in the central Pacific Ocean. The country's dependent territories are offshore and have distinct geographies of their own; the majority are islands. The third-largest country in the world (after the Russian Federation and Canada), the USA has an enormous diversity of geographical features, including mountains, plains, and coastal zones. Though there are many cities that are densely populated with more manmade features than natural ones, there are also vast rural areas that are far more sparsely populated. The climate ranges from subtropical to arctic, with a corresponding breadth of flora and fauna. General knowledge Key facts Population: 321,2 millions LH.com/travelguide Houston 02/18 Travel Guide Houston 03 Population Density (per sq km): 32 Capital: Washington, DC. Language English, with significant Spanish-speaking minorties (10.7%). Currency US Dollar (USD; symbol $) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of $100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1, though the $2 bill is rare and is not in high circulation. Coins are in denominations of $1, and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 cents. Electricity 120 volts AC, 60Hz. Plugs have two flat pins with or without a third round grounding pin. General business opening hours Business hours are officially Mon-Fri 0900-1730, although an extended working day is very common in certain sectors and it is not unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend. Public holidays Below are listed Public Holidays for the January 2017 - December 2018 period. 2017 New Year’s Day: 1 January 2017 Martin Luther King Day: 16 January 2017 President’s Day: 20 February 2017 Memorial Day: 29 March 2017 Independence Day: 4 Juyi 2017 Labor Day: 4 September 2017 Columbus Day: 9 October 2017 Veterans Day: 10 November 2017 Thanksgiving Day: 23 November 2017 Christmas: 25 December 2017 2018 New Year’s Day: 1 January 2018 Martin Luther King Day: 15 January 2018 President’s Day: 19 February 2018 Memorial Day: 29 March 2018 Independence Day: 4 Juyi 2018 Labor Day: 3 September 2018 Columbus Day: 8 October 2018 Veterans Day: 12 November 2018 Thanksgiving Day: 22 November 2018 Christmas: 25 December 2018 All information subject to change. Travel etiquette How to fit in LH.com/travelguide Houston 03/18 Travel Guide Houston 04 Social Conventions Americans are renowned for their openness and friendliness to visitors. The wide variety of national origins and the USA's relatively short history has resulted in numerous cultural and traditional customs living alongside each other. In large cities, people of the same ethnic background often live within defined communities. Shaking hands is the usual form of greeting in formal situation and in business meetings. A relaxed and informal atmosphere is usually the norm. As long as the fundamental rules of courtesy are observed, there need be no fear of offending anyone of any background. Gifts are appreciated if one is invited to a private home. As a rule, dress is casual. High-end restaurants, hotels and clubs may require more formal attire. Smoking is increasingly unpopular in the US; it is essential to ask permission before lighting up. Smoking is not allowed on city transport and restricted or forbidden in public buildings in most states. There will be a posted notice where no smoking is requested. An increasing number of states (including California and New York) have banned smoking altogether in bars, restaurants and many public places. Health Health Main emergency number: 911 Food & Drink Food in the US is safe to eat, and the conditions under which food is prepared and served are regulated by city, state, and federal health and hygiene agencies. In many jurisdictions, it is mandatory for restaurants to have a certificate of health or hygiene, as well as the current grade they have been assigned, posted visibly. Although America is famous for its fast food and obesity rates, the local and fresh food movement is very popular in many areas, especially cities, making it easy to eat healthy. A variety of options also makes it easy for people with special dietary needs to find food that suits them, whether their needs are due to health reasons or to religious requirements. Tap water is considered safe to drink in the US and is often offered in restaurants before bottled water. Bottled water is available throughout the country, however, both in restaurants and shops, for those who prefer not to drink tap water. Other Risks The US is generally considered a safe destination for world visitors. Occasional outbreaks of disease, such as West Nile Virus (a mosquito-borne illness) and H1N1 have occurred in recent years, however. Frequent hand-washing and general practices of good hygiene are encouraged to protect oneself against all types of illness. Another concern with regard to safety is the possibility of terrorist attacks such as the one that occurred on September 11, 2001. City, state, and federal agencies have stringent anti-terrorism practices in place, however, and direct threats are LH.com/travelguide Houston 04/18 Travel Guide Houston 05 infrequent. Contractual physician of Lufthansa Prof.Taegtmeyer, Heinrich University of Texas Med. School Cardiology 6431Fannin MSB I.246 Houston Tx 77030 USA Tel. +1-713-5006567 / 5006569 Please note that Lufthansa accepts no responsibility for the treatment nor will it bear the cost of any treatment. Phone calls & Internet Phone calls & Internet Telephone/Mobile Telephone Dialing Code: +1 Telephone For emergency police, fire or medical services in major cities, dial 911. The following codes denote toll-free (freephone) numbers: 800, 855, 866, 877 and 888. Mobile Telephone Foreign mobile telephones only work if they are tri-band or quad-band; charges are high. Visitors can also hire a mobile telephone. Pre-pay cell phones can be purchased from a variety of retail outlets, including drug stores. Internet There are internet cafés in most urban areas, and an increasing number of Wi-Fi hotspots. Many coffee shops offer free Wi-Fi. Many of the international airports offer internet access too. Top 10 sights Top 10 sights in Houston The Museum of Fine Arts Houston One of the country’s largest museums, with excellent collections of art from all corners of the globe. The complex is made up of two main gallery buildings and a sculpture garden, as well as a movie theatre. 1001 Bissonnet Street Opening times: 77005 Houston Tue-Wed 1000-1700 USA Thu 1000-2100 Tel: 713 639 7300 Fri-Sat 1000-1900 Sun 1215-1900 LH.com/travelguide Houston 05/18 Travel Guide Houston 06 www.mfah.org Space Center Houston ‘Houston, we have a problem.’ Take a tour of NASA’s famed Mission Control and discover more about moon landings and space research. It’s located roughly a 45minute drive out of town. 1601 NASA Parkway Opening times: 77058 Houston Daily 1000-1900 USA Tel: 281 244 2100 www.spacecenter.org Houston Museum of Natural Science Billed as one of the 10 most visited museums in the USA, this cornucopia of natural and scientific exhibits covers everything from Texan wildlife to preColumbian archaeology. 5555 Hermann Park Drive Opening times: 77030 Houston Daily 0900-1800 USA Tel: 713 639 4629 www.hmns.org Menil Collection Exhibiting the private art collection of the gallery’s founders, John and Dominique de Menil, this attraction is free to enter and displays an impressive array of worldclass works – from surrealist paintings to decorative sculptures. 1533 Sul Ross Street Opening times: 77006 Houston Wed-Sun 1100-1900 USA Tel: 713 525 9400 www.menil.org Discovery Green A five-hectare public park with a playground, fountains, a lake, a performance space and various places to eat. Admission is free, and various events take place throughout the year. 1500 McKinney Street Opening times: 77010 Houston Daily 0600-2300 USA Tel: 713 400 7336 www.discoverygreen.com Holocaust Museum Houston Serving the memory of the 6 million who died in the Holocaust, the varied exhibits at this museum also have a broader remit of combating prejudice in society – among the items on show is a railcar of the type used by the Germans during WWII. LH.com/travelguide Houston 06/18 Travel Guide 5401 Caroline Street Opening times: 77004 Houston Mon-Fri 0900-1700 USA Sat-Sun 1200-1700 Houston 07 Tel: 713 942 8000 www.hmh.org The Heritage Society at Sam Houston Park Dedicated to the preservation of Houston’s historic buildings and cultural heritage, the park plays home to a number of houses from different eras. There are guided tours available. 1100 Bagby Street Opening times: 77002 Houston Tue-Sat 1000-1600 USA Tel: 713 655 1912 www.heritagesociety.org Glenwood Cemetery A large, well-tended cemetery providing the final resting place for all manner of local luminaries, from aviator Howard Hughes to groundbreaking heart surgeon Dr Denton Cooley. 2525 Washington Avenue Opening times: 77007 Houston Daily 0700-1700 USA Tel: 713 864 7886 www.glenwoodcemetery.org Houston Toyota Center As the home stadium of basketball team the Houston Rockets, two-times winners of the NBA Championship, the venue is a big draw for sports fans. The season runs from around October to June. 1510 Polk Street Opening times: 77002 Houston Various USA Tel: 713 758 7200 www.houstontoyotacenter.com Lee and Joe Jamail Skatepark Spectacular Skatepark, opened in 2008 in the Buffalo Bayou Park. Provides Halfpipes, Ramps and Bowls for Starters and Experts in ca. 3000 squaremetres. 103 Sabine Street Opening times: 77007 Houston Daily 0900-2200 houstontx.gov/parks/ourparks/leejoepar k.html LH.com/travelguide Houston 07/18 Travel Guide Houston 08 Shopping in Houston Shopping in Houston Key Areas There’s a huge amount of choice in Houston, with stand-out areas including West Avenue (which attracts luxury retailers) and the more offbeat likes of Westheimer Curve and Historic Heights, both of which give the chance to browse for vintage fashions and unusual keepsakes. Markets Farmers’ markets are a common sight in Houston these days. The largest of the weekly set-ups is the Urban Harvest Market (3000 Richmond Avenue), which takes place on Saturdays and Sundays and sells meats, fruit, honey, eggs and more. The event also generally features live music and cooking demonstrations. Shopping Centres With around 400 stores and restaurants to choose from, The Galleria (5085 Westheimer Road) is the largest shopping centre in Texas – Macy’s, Ralph Lauren and Cartier are among the tenants. There’s even an ice rink. Elsewhere, Memorial City Mall (303 Memorial City Way) is another centre with an ample array of familiar brands. Restaurants Restaurants in Houston The figures tell their own story – the city has over 8,000 restaurants showcasing cuisines from more than 35 differentcountries and regions. Houston regularly gets lauded for its food scene, and rightly so. Hugo’s Garlanded with awards, this is seen as one the top Mexican restaurants in the USA. 1600 Westheimer Road Price: Expensive 77006 Houston USA Sambuca A popular ‘rockin’ American grill’ with live music and dancing and an appealing menu of tapas-style plates. 909 Texas Avenue Price: Moderate 77002 Houston USA Tel: 713 224 5299 Uchi Fans of Japanese food should make a beeline for this enjoyable restaurant, run by sushi master Tyson Cole. LH.com/travelguide Houston 08/18 Travel Guide 904 Westheimer Road Houston 09 Price: Moderate 77006 Houston USA Peli Peli Houston Anything goes in Texas, and this South African fusion restaurant is no exception. 110 Vintage Park Boulevard Price: Moderate 77070 Houston USA Barnaby’s Cafe Serving up everything from meatloaf to Tex Mex, this is somewhere to head for a well-priced feed. 414 West Gray Street Price: Cheap 77019 Houston USA Nightlife Nightlife in Houston H-Town knows all about letting its hair down, whether you’re heading to the bars and saloons of the Downtown district or the arty hangouts of the Montrose neighbourhood. Absinthe Brasserie Specialising in the notorious wormwood-based drink beloved by 19th-century artists and writers. 609 Richmond Avenue 77006 Houston USA Flying Saucer Draught Emporium Heaven for lovers of draught beer, with food also served to soak up the ale. 705 Main Street @ Capitol 77002 Houston USA Tel: 713 228-9472 Numbers Nightclub An alternative-minded music club that has hosted the likes of Iggy Pop and the Pogues. LH.com/travelguide Houston 09/18 Travel Guide Houston 10 300 Westheimer Road 77006 Houston USA Firehouse Saloon A country bar and dance hall on the Southwest Freeway. 5930 Southwest Freeway 77057 Houston USA L&L Bar A classy late-night bar at Hotel Icon, with craft cocktails and fine wines. 220 Main Street 77002 Houston USA Calendar of events Calendar of events Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo This is cowboy country and the annual Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo is one of the most eagerly anticipated events of the year in Texas. The show features all the great rodeo classics such as bareback bronc riding, steer wrestling, bull riding, tie-down roping and chuck wagon racing. Other attractions and entertainment include live country music shows, a shopping and food arena, a carnival and the ever-popular hideout country dancing event. 7 - 26 March 2017 www.rodeohouston.com Venue: Reliant Stadium Art Car Parade First held in 1988 with just a handful of vehicles and a few bemused onlookers, the annual Art Car Parade is now the biggest event of its kind in the world. Exhibits range from huge, high-spec hot rods to fighter jets manned by drivers in fancy dress. Costumed dancers and musicians join the parade on foot as do people on bikes, roller skates and just about every other means of transport you can think of. 6 - 9 April 2017 www.thehoustonartcarparade.com/ Venue: Parade goes from Waugh to Bagby and back again. Houston Ultimate Women's Expo LH.com/travelguide Houston 10/18 Travel Guide Houston 11 Houston Ultimate Women's Expo offers two all-inclusive days of fun, inspiration, free goodies, pampering, shopping and celebrity speakers, including actress NeNe Leakes. There will be complimentary haircuts and makeovers, cooking classes, jewelry and candle making, "do-it-herself" home improvement workshops, and much more. Grab your best girlfriends and get inspired! 20 - 21 April 2017 www.houstonwomensexpo.com Venue: Reliant Center WorldFest Independent Film Festival Billed as the oldest independent film and video festival in the world, the annual Worldfest in Houston dates back to 1961 and has been entertaining film fans, students and industry experts for decades. Each year the festival showcases American and international independent feature films with a spotlight on an individual country and its films. 21 - 30 April 2017 www.worldfest.org Venue: AMC Studio Houston LGBT Pride One of the party highlights of the year for the city, the celebration takes place in the Montrose neighbourhood with live music, the Divas of Diversity comedy show, exhibitions, artists, performers, singing competitions and multiple stages. The week-long celebrations culminate in the parade which snakes along Westheimer in the evening. June 2017 www.pridehouston.org Venue: Montrose area Freedom Over Texas This is one of the city's signature events. The city celebrates American Independence Day with live entertainment and the largest land-based fireworks display in the USA. A number of stages keep toes tapping during the day featuring bands playing country, zydeco, jazz, pop and Latin music. In addition there is a Freedom Market, beer garden and display of military vehicles. But the event that everybody has come for is when the sky over Houston explodes with fireworks. 4 July 2017 www.houstontx.gov/july4 Venue: Eleanor Tinsley Park Houston Shakespeare Festival Each summer the Houston Shakespeare Festival performs a season of Shakespeare plays in the Miller Outdoor Theatre bringing the bard to the residents of Houston, free of charge. Take a picnic, blanket and enjoy some high quality LH.com/travelguide Houston 11/18 Travel Guide Houston 12 entertainment. There are now seats available under a canopy and tickets for this covered area are free but are given out at the box office in person on the day of the performance between 1030 and 1300. July - August 2017 www.houstonfestivalscompany.com Venue: Miller Outdoor Theatre, Hermann Park Wings Over Houston The skies over Ellington Airport buzz with a spectacular air show featuring demonstrations of civilian, modern military and vintage aircraft. In addition there are spectacular displays from national and international acts such as the USAF Thunderbirds. There are static displays of dozens of modern and vintage aircraft and fun things for the whole family including flight simulators. 20 - 22 October 2017 www.wingsoverhouston.com Venue: Ellington Airport Thanksgiving Day Parade Thanksgiving Day Parade in downtown Houston is the biggest holiday parade in Texas, attracting crowds of 400,000 people. Highlights include fantastic floats, high-flying hot air balloons, marching bands, cheerleaders and celebrity guests which all wind their way through the streets of downtown, from 9am onwards, starting at Texas and ending at McKinney. 23 November 2017 www.houstontx.gov/thanksgivingparade/ Venue: Downtown Houston Uptown Tree Lighting Uptown Holiday Lighting is an annual event held on Thanksgiving evening in Uptown Houston. Kicking off the holiday season, this fun and charming family event is lit up by more than half a million twinkling lights on Christmas trees along Post Oak Boulevard, and it comes with festive holiday music, an impressive fireworks show and a special appearance by Santa Claus who turns on the lights. 23 November 2017 www.uptown-houston.com Venue: Post Oak Boulevard Hotels Hotels in Houston Given the sheer size of the Greater Houston area, visitors can find an almost overwhelming amount of accommodationoptions. The city has plenty of luxurious properties to indulge in, but also has much at a lower price point too. LH.com/travelguide Houston 12/18 Travel Guide Houston 13 Hotel ZaZa A stylish boutique option in the Theatre District. 5701 Main Street Category: Expensive 77005 Houston USA St Regis Houston A luxurious chain hotel with a spa and outdoor pool. 1919 Briar Oaks Lane Category: Expensive 77027 Houston USA The Lancaster A small, upmarket hotel occupying a historic building in the theatre district. 701 Texas Avenue Category: Moderate 77002 Houston USA Hotel Indigo Houston at the Galleria Well located for shops and eateries, this is a good bet for both business and leisure stays. 51260 Hidalgo Street Category: Moderate 77056 Houston USA Red Roof Inn Houston An affordable, no-frills choice with free Wi-Fi, located in the part of the city known as the Energy Corridor. 15701 Park Ten Place Category: Cheap 77084 Houston USA LH.com/travelguide Houston 13/18 Travel Guide Houston 14 The great journey Free spirits in the southern U.S. The great journey: Texas © Felix Sanchez City life and the Wild West exist side by side in Texas. And soon the southern U.S. state will have a Formula 1 racetrack, too. Traveling through Texas, we encounter artists, free spirits, an acrobatic cowboy, an astronaut – and a highway to the sky Day 1 – Houston: Space for art © Felix Sanchez Houston’s greatest treasure is not something you see at first glance. Dense traffic rumbles along the four-lane highway, past the signs announcing the same old chains of stores and snack bars. In the center of the fourth-largest city in the United States, skyscrapers tower like exclamation points into the blue expanse above. Inside them, the air conditioning is on full power. So far, so American. But this is a city with more to offer – art, for example, in the museum district with its Menil Collection and Isabella Street galleries. This city has an excellent network of artists and collectors, and studio spaces here are cheap. “Houston has always had a vibrant creative scene,” says artist Thédra CullarLedford, 42. “It grew rich on oil, and with the money came art, as the oil barons’ wives needed something to occupy them.” She works on the second floor of her house in the north of the city. Two cats play tag around the studio, brushes and paints cover the table, and there’s a stack of dolls in large plastic boxes. These are her models. She is just completing a commission: a picture of a doll in a tutu. Cullar-Ledford was raised close to the Mexican border by her art teacher parents, and she picked up painting quite naturally as a child. Later, she studied art, first in California, then in Oxford, England. “Painting really is the only thing I can do,” she says. When Cullar-Ledford paints a picture, she tells a story – of beauty, of friendship, or of identity. Seven years ago, she moved to Houston with her husband and two LH.com/travelguide Houston 14/18 Travel Guide Houston 15 sons. They have four studio containers in their garden that they rent to artists and plan to build another four to make more space for art in Houston. Day 2 – Houston to Austin: Soundtrack of a city © Felix Sanchez The further we get from Houston, the narrower the highway becomes as we drive west, past brush and pastureland, cattle herds and oil pumps, until the Austin skyline comes into view on the horizon. Austin, the university city and seat of government on the Colorado River, is home to 50,000 students. Like the city’s other 740,000 citizens, they evidently enjoy a night out because Austin has over 200 music bars, clubs and concert halls that play a wide range of music from blues, rock and indie to the biggest local sound, Texas country and western swing. “The city made it easy for me,” say Tje Austin, 29. He sports an Afro and a broad smile, and his music sounds like sunshine, youth and rumpled beds. Seven years ago, while studying computer science at the University of Texas, Austin bought himself a guitar and began writing songs. Three people heard his first public performance, then his audiences and the clubs he played grew bigger. Last year, he made it into the final round of the talent show “The Voice” and sang in front Christina Aguilera. “The show really did me good,” he says. Good teachers, new fans, a glimpse behind the scenes. But being in the spotlight hasn’t turned his head: “I know exactly where I stand.” Austin is currently working on his third CD. Does he have a dream? Yes, to keep making music and singing. In the evening, the Bordertown Bootleggers play western swing to around three dozen women and men at the Rattle Inn. A slow number prompts a tall man and his partner to take to the dance floor and for a brief spell, they appear to forget everything around them. Day 3 – Austin to Bandera: Formula 1 meets Wild West © Felix Sanchez We wanted to give the drivers a chance to make mistakes,” says engineer Oliver Liedgens, 38, “although our motto, naturally, is safety first.” Liedgens is standing on a green hill southeast of Austin, pointing down at a left bend unspectacularly called LH.com/travelguide Houston 15/18 Travel Guide Houston 16 “T1.” The first of three layers of asphalt has just been laid down. Liedgens oversaw the Circuit of the Americas racetrack project. His employer, the firm Tike based in Aachen, Germany, also designed the Formula 1 tracks in Malaysia and Abu Dhabi. Great expectations were riding on the new course – 5.5 kilometers, 20 bends, seats for 120,000 spectators. The U.S. Grand Prix took place here November 16 -18, 2012, and it was the first time since 2007 that the Formula 1 circus had come to the U.S. “We made the course as spectacular as possible and at many points created a second race line so that drivers can overtake,” Liedgens explains. There’s still plenty to be done and some 700 people are currently hard at it on the vast building site. Incidentally, the winners in 2012 were Lewis Hamilton for McLaren-Mercedes in front of Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull-Renault), who returned to win the Grand Prix here in 2013. We continue southwest and the country becomes hillier. Signposts point the way to local ranches. Many owners rent rooms to guests, who come to experience a couple of days’ Wild West. On the Twin Elm Guest Ranch near the small town of Bandera, Kevin Fitzpatrick, 54, is doing his stuff for a group of children and adults. Standing on his horse’s back, he sends his lasso skimming through the air, dancing over his shoulder, his hat, his arm, as though guided by remote control; you could easily picture him using his lasso to light a cigarette. Sandy-haired Fitzpatrick is a trick roper and four years ago earned himself the title of Lasso World Champion. He has appeared on TV on the Jay Leno talk show and at the Super Bowl American football championship. Some days, he gives four or even five shows. When he’s not on the road, Fitzpatrick practises daily at his ranch in Bandera. “It’s like dancing,” he says, “everyone has their own style.” Fitzpatrick does his show at the Dixie Dude Ranch, too, which was started in 1906. The present owner, stocky Clay Colony, 54, still keeps Longhorn cattle, horses and goats, but he also rents 21 rooms and cabins to visitors. “We want to give them a taste of our culture,” he explains. Guests can go riding twice a day, and in the evening, gather around the campfire, listen to country music and dance. Before Colony took over the ranch from his grandmother, he was vice-president of an oil company in San Antonio. “But now I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else but here in the peace and quiet of the countryside,” he says. The locals, many of them musicians, artists and free spirits, are laid back and helpful, but also very traditional in their values. “We are hippies,” says Colony, “but we are also cowboys.” When he sits out on his veranda at night, gazing up at the stars, he knows he got it right. Day 4 – Bandera via New Braunfels to Corpus Christi: German traditions © Felix Sanchez Big, fat raindrops hammer against the windshield and in the distance, there’s the rumble of thunder, but that’s good news in Texas; the land needs rain. Over the past few years, drought has sent feed prices skyrocketing, forcing many ranchers to sell their herds. This morning, the sky clears quickly. We arrive in New Braunfels in LH.com/travelguide Houston 16/18 Travel Guide Houston 17 the German Belt, a settlement founded by Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels in 1845. The German heritage of this town of 56,000 souls is still in evidence everywhere you look – and especially so in early November, when the city celebrates its tenday sausage festival, the Wurstfest. That’s when The Sauerkrauts play German folk music, “Gone with the Wurst” is performed on stage, and 160,000 visitors tuck into potato pancakes and 25 tons of sausages. No record is kept of the quantity of beer consumed. As the landscape levels out, we drive past cornfields on both sides of the road. In the marina of Aransas Pass on the Gulf of Mexico, there’s a good chance of meeting Billie Kocian, 51. She takes her motorboat out into the shallow, fish-rich waters of the bay and shows tourists how to catch redfish and sea trout. “I can smell them,” says the tanned blonde, “it’s like hunting.” Kocian used to manage a supermarket in Houston. Lots of stress, lots of sadness, a dark time; she started drinking. But then she met her present husband, moved to the coast and learned to fish. “I love it,” says Kocian, “it saved my life.” Every time she catches a fish, she sends a prayer of thanks heavenward that everything turned out so well. Day 5: Corpus Christi to Houston: Reaching for the stars © Felix Sanchez Back in Houston again. Visitors stand in line outside the Space Center theme park next door to the NASA Mission Control Center. The exhibits inside the park, designed by Disney’s illusionists, are space shuttles, space suits and lunar modules, as well as colorful rockets on which children can play to heroic background music. “This has nothing to do with what we actually did,” says Donald Peterson, 78, shaking his head. The former natural scientist, Air Force pilot and astronaut is standing in the space shuttle cockpit. He’s right at home in here, and that’s no surprise because in 1983 he traveled on the Challenger’s maiden flight into space. The four crew members’ days were minutely planned: seven hours of sleep and then scientific experiments with little time left for breaks. Just once, when they were flying over Hawaii at 18,000 miles per hour, Peterson took a couple of minutes to admire the view. He and a fellow astronaut, Story Musgrave, made the first space walk from a space shuttle, working for over four hours outside. Even when his space suit developed a leak for 25 seconds – no one knew why – Peterson did not allow himself to become distracted. Back on board, the astronauts rewarded themselves with a dish of strawberries. Did the flight change them? “Not in a spiritual sense,” replies the likeable retiree, “but you learn to trust the people you work with.” He has mixed feelings about NASA’s plans to settle Mars. Too many unsolved problems – the radiation, the long flight. And anyway, it’s pretty good down here on Earth. LH.com/travelguide Houston 17/18 Travel Guide Houston 18 Lufthansa tip Lufthansa offers a daily nonstop service from Frankfurt to Houston (IAH). Visit meilenrechner.de to calculate how many miles you can earn on a round-trip flight. lufthansa.com LH.com/travelguide Houston 18/18
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