Know your sewing machine
Although all sewing machines differ – they do all have similar parts. Use this
diagram to compare to your sewing machine, and make sure you use your
instruction manual!
Thread tension control
Controls the amount of
pressure on your thread as it
passes through your machine.
Thread spool pin
Holds your reel of thread
in position.
Bobbin winder spool pin
Use to wind on your bobbin.
Clicks from left to right to
engage winding.
Wheel
This will turn when you
sew. If you turn it towards
you then you can control
the needle position.
Stitch width control
This changes how wide your
zigzag stitches are.
Stitch length control
This controls how long your
straight stitches are.
Pattern selector dial
This controls what kind of
stitch you are doing – use
to switch between straight
and zigzag.
Reverse control
This allows you to sew
backwards.
Bobbin case
This holds your bobbin,
which is wound with your
bottom thread.
Thread guides
These guide your thread from
the spool to the needle and
are numbered.
Presser foot
Works with the feed dog below
to hold your fabric and move
it along as you sew.
Free arm
Useful for sewing around
circular items like sleeves.
Detachable storage tray
Creates a sewing surface
when attached and stores
accessories.
Foot pedal
Controls the machine –
some have 2 speeds.
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tricks, as well as our
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Top tips for sewing machines
• Learn how to de-fluff your sewing machine. Use a pressurised air-can that
is sold for cleaning keyboards. The fluff in the bobbin area of your machine
soaks up the oil and can clog the mechanism. Doing this yourself will
prolong the life of your machine, and cost you less in servicing.
• Do get your machine serviced regularly. That clunking noise in your
machine means something is out of sync! You wouldn’t dream of driving
your car for ten years without a service, and like cars, sewing machines
have moveable parts that need maintenance. If you don’t use it very often
then every couple of years should be okay, and if you use it regularly then
do every year. A service should cost around £45.
• Keep your manual handy! So many tasks you may want to do are explained
in your manual, so it is an invaluable resource. If you’ve got a vintage
machine with no manual, then check out this site to see if it’s there.
http://www.sewingmanuals.com
• If you like doing a specific task like gathering, or piping, research whether
or not there is a special foot for your machine that makes that task quicker.
A piping foot for example gives you a perfect result each time, without you
having to put as much effort in. I always buy an invisible zip foot, as I do
lots of those types of zips, and the foot makes it so easy.
• Change your needle! Many people have had the same needle in since they
bought their machine. Needles on average last a continuous 8 hours only!
You need to change your needle according to the fabric you’re using. A
fine needle for delicates and a thicker needle for heavier fabrics. Needles
are made for specific tasks, for example a denim needle is the best choice
for jeans, it’s strong but has a very sharp point that will pierce the dense
fabric. This is a great article on what needle to use for what fabric:
http://thesewingdirectory.blogspot.com/2010/09/n-is-for-needle.html
• Needles and pins are one area that buying cheap means you pay twice. I
always use Schmetz, or Gros-Beckert needles which are German and very
high quality. For hand sewing I usually use John James which are British
steel, or Milward needles. For pins I use a longer, finer good quality brand
like Prym.
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For more handy tips and
tricks, as well as our
class schedule, visit:
www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk
Sew forward, backward
and corners
Machine stitching
These basic machine stitches will be used on all your sewing projects. Have a
practice on different sorts of fabrics.
Moving forward in a straight line
• This is the foundation on which all your sewing will be built! A forward
direction line is used to not only create seams, but to tack, zigzag and
pretty much all machine sewing
• For 99% of seams, your stitch length should be set at between 2-3.
• Begin by raising your sewing foot, bring your needle into the fabric at the
point you wish to start sewing. Lower your sewing foot and lightly hold onto
the 2 threads whilst you use the foot control to start the machine moving
forward....easy!
Straight line
Backstitch
• This is the reverse stitch you use to start and finish every seam. Without a
backstitch your seams will just unravel!
• Begin stitching forwards as before for a few stitches, then press and hold
the reverse button on your machine and stitch a few stitches backwards.
• Release the reverse button, and continue stitching forward until you reach
the end of your seam. You then repeat the reverse stitching to secure this
end of the seam too.
Back stitch
Zigzag
• This is used to finish of the edge of seams, and will stop all the fabric
unravelling, it can also be used as a decorative stitch too.
• Set the stitch length a little smaller than for a straight stitch, approx 1.5
• Set the stitch width so that you have a generous zigzag, but not more than
your seam allowance, usually the maximum width available.
• Start stitching forward as before, and remember to backstitch at the
beginning and end of the seam too.
Turning corners
Zigzag
• Very few sewing projects are just straight lines, at some point you will need
to turn a corner!
• Stitch in a straight line up to the point at which you need to turn, turn your
wheel towards you bringing the needle into your fabric (only if needle was
out of work when you stopped).
• Raise your sewing foot and pivot your fabric until the sewing foot faces the
direction you wish to continue sewing in.
• Lower your presser foot and continue sewing in the new direction.
Turning
corners
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Seams and edges
Next,sew your seams
Seams hold the fabric pieces together to form a garment.
• To start, pin the pieces of fabrics with right sides together. You can pin
horizontally as shown, but sewing over the pins in this way, can break your
needle. It is advisable to pin in a vertical direction, with the bulk of the
seam to the left, and the pin heads facing you.
• Position your seam to sew forwards as before. Hold onto the 2 threads and
bring the needle into the fabric. Lower the sewing foot, and gently press
the foot control. The machine pulls the fabric under the presser foot as you
control the speed with the foot control, use your hands to guide the fabric
to exactly where you want to sew.
• Sew the seam with a simple straight stitch, starting and finishing with a
couple of back-stitches.
Sewing your seams
Finally,finish your edges
Finishing the edges of your garments not only looks professional, but will
prolong the life of the garment!
1. Simple pinked edge
Edge finished with
pinking shears
• Once you have stitched the seam, trim the edges with a pair of pinking
shears and press either open or to one side.
• This method is only suitable for fabrics that do not fray easily!
2. A zigzag edge
• Once you have stitched the seam, press it either open or to one side.
• If pressed open, then zigzag along both edges of your seam.
• If pressed to one side then zigzag the 2 edges together.
Hem it up
• Double-folded edges work for most hems and all casings. Fold over a small
turning, about 1 cm and press, this is to stop the cut edge of the fabric
from fraying. Then fold again to your desired hem width and press. If the
fabric is thick, a double turned hem may be bulky, so use a zigzag stitch
over the cut edge to finish.
• The hem can then be hand-stitched if you want it to appear invisible, or
machine stitched if you want a very secure hem.
Press as you go
• The trick to a professional finish is to keep pressing! Pressing is essential
to achieve a neat finish. Use only the tip of the iron and work lightly. Avoid
bulky areas like zips and pockets.
Seam pressed
open
Seam pressed
to one side
1 cm fold
Wrong side of back
Sewing line
4 cm hem
Visit our website
For more handy tips and
tricks, as well as our
class schedule, visit:
www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk