SHOREWOOD from the river to the lake News from the Shorewood Historical Society The “400” crosses the railroad trestle at Capitol Dr. (Now the Oak Leaf Trail) IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 1 Ghost Train PAGE 2 From the President Sheldon Room Schedule Program Announcement Riding the “400” PAGE 3 The Blue Hole PAGE 4&5 Thomas Bare Story Contact Information PAGE 6&7 Cement Mills Hubbard Mystery PAGE 8 Ghost Train Newsletter Editor: Margaret Sankovitz [email protected] 2016 Issue 4 HERE COMES THE GHOST TRAIN! Schedule of Events: Community Gathering for First Run of The Ghost Train and Lighting of the Capitol Drive Bridge Monday, October 31 (Halloween) 6 – 7:30 p.m. Capitol Drive will be closed to traffic from Wilson to Morris. The Ghost Train will “run” at least twice at about 7 p.m. A short program will be held before the train run from a stage in front of Culver’s. Culver’s is preparing a Ghost Train flavor of the day and will serve free coffee! Ghost Train Reception Metro Market Café, October 31 (Halloween) 7:30 – 9 p.m. There will be a short program about 8:15 p.m. Seasonal refreshments will be served The Ghost Train lighting designer Marty Peck and representatives from the Outdoor Art Shorewood Committee and the Historical Society will be on hand to answer questions. North Shore Bank is sponsoring a Costume Contest. Wear a train related costume and register for the contest when you arrive at Metro Market. are located along the Oak Leaf Trail, just south of the bridge. Train History Signs Return to the bridge area in early November to view the four train history signs developed by the Shorewood Historical Society in conjunction with The Ghost Train project. Signs about the “400” train and The Ghost Train project will be under the bridge near the Baker’s Square parking lot entrance. Two more signs that tell the story of the role trains played in the development of Shorewood History of the Chicago & North Western Railway Large panels that convey the history of the C&NW Railway, and its “400” train in particular, are currently on display in the adult section of the Shorewood Library. The colorful panels are on loan from Trainfest (America’s Largest Operating Model Railroad Show) and will be on display through the first week in November. 1 The Ghost Train Schedule The Ghost Train will run each evening about 7 p.m. (once in each direction) during the winter. The schedule will change seasonally and times will be posted on the Village of Shorewood web site. Bring your family and visitors to view the train. Remember that it will have a different look in rain, snow or fog because of light reflection off of whatever is in the air. FROM THE PRESIDENT By the time you read this newsletter, construction of The Ghost Train should be well underway. The first “run” of the train is scheduled for Halloween (see schedule on p.1). We have provided a great deal of time, energy and financial support to this public art project and have great hope that lighting the Oak Leaf Trail bridge will provide a colorful and entertaining entrance to the west side of our village. For us, the project is already a success because of the connection the Shorewood Public Art committee chose to emphasize between the art installation and Shorewood history. We have prepared Shorewood train history for distribution, spoken to a number of groups, encouraged school groups to develop train related projects and assisted Culver’s with a train related display. We also developed the four interpretive train history signs that will be placed near the bridge. Recent donations in memory of Michael Spector made possible, and encouraged, our major investment in this public education project. After The Ghost Train settles into its daily schedule, we will return to other educational efforts such as our digitization of pictures and development of story banners. We also are starting a much needed review of our archives to assess our use of space, our accessibility to residents and our collection policies. Please contact me if you are interested in becoming more involved in Historical Society activities. We can use people with a couple hours to spare and those who wish to make a weekly or monthly commitment. Karen de Hartog 414-964-5258 • [email protected] SHELDON ROOM SCHEDULE PROGRAM ANNOUNCEMENT Determining how to make the best use of the Sheldon Room, our public room in the Shorewood Village Center, is part of a larger assessment of our archives facilities and policies. We are currently looking at ways to make better use of our space and increase public accessibility. Because so few residents currently make use of the Sheldon Room resources, the room will be open on a limited schedule until the end of the year: Oct. 12 & 26, Nov. 9 & 30, and Dec. 14, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. Shorewood Senior Resource Center Lunch Program – November 16, 2016 Limestone, Trains, Parks and Apartments: The unique history of a narrow strip of Shorewood, from Wilson Drive to the River Speaker: Karen de Hartog For lunch reservations, call 414.847.2727; Everyone is welcome to attend the program at 1 p.m. RIDING THE “400” Marty Peck, the designer of The Ghost Train, spoke at Men’s Morning at the Senior Resource Center. A member of the audience, Art Schmitz, remembered riding the Chicago & North Western “400” train from Eau Claire to Milwaukee several times. One trip was made on an extremely cold day with sub-zero temperatures. The train stopped at Wyeville, in central Wisconsin, and was sitting there for what seemed like a long time. Finally, a conductor came through and advised everyone to zip up there jackets and put on their gloves as they no longer had heat. The throw bar that connected the engine to the passenger cars had broken due to the extreme cold and the engine had left the station without the cars! Eventually a small service engine arrived to tow the cars and the very cold passengers into Milwaukee. Jim Sankovitz remembers riding the “400” from Milwaukee to St. Paul when he was a student at Marquette University in the early-mid 50s. He wore his Army ROTC uniform so he could be accorded the discount offered to “men in uniform.” (He also rode the Hiawatha train of the Chicago Milwaukee St Paul Railway, also wearing his uniform.) 2 THE M.L. “Pete” Rodgers, Shorewood High School graduate, wrote his memories of Shorewood in Spring, 1996, while a resident of Arizona. Rodgers wrote, “I am doing these (remembrances) purely by memory and may have made errors or overlooked important events.” This excerpt from his remembrances was published in the July-September, 1999, Shorewood Historical Society Newsletter. “Pete” Rodgers died in December, 1997. ** Note the discrepancy in “Pete’s” memory of Cement Lake and The Blue Hole being the same lake and the description of two lakes -Cement and The Blue Hole (p 7). While not in Shorewood, Estabrook Park is almost part of it. Forgotten in the rush of today’s quickly changing world are such landmarks as the “Mystery House” (south of the Channel 6 tower and long-razed), the Pig ‘n Whistle (now the site of Harbor Chase) and “The Blue Hole” – all adjacent to the Park. The Blue Hole, an azure blue lake about two to three acres in size, was bounded on the east by a six foot levee that separated the lake from the river in a semi-circular curve. The west side was bounded by an extension of North Humboldt Ave. Near the lake was the location of the Wisconsin Humane Society (now located on W. Wisconsin Ave., Milwaukee). The lake was almost a circle with deep slopes on most sides. The blue water contrasted with the muddy colored waters of the river. People regularly fished from its banks, a source of family food during the years of the Great Depression. I avoided visiting the area with my trusty 1939 Elgin bike because my grandmother and her neighbors warned me of the dangers of the lake. I assume my parents figured I would never ride some three miles from our north side home to The Blue Hole, so they never warned me, but grandmother (who watched me while my mother worked) and the BLUE HOLE neighbors – oh boy, did they lay it on! They said that almost every week around five – or maybe 25 - children were sucked into the “whirlpool” in the center of the lake; the steep banks were slick mud that one couldn’t climb if one slipped and fell in. In addition, the water was so cold that one would not last over five minutes, and the bottom, which is over 100 feet down – or maybe 1,000 feet – is littered with the bodies and bones of the numerous children who drowned there in the last 50 years (1889-1939). If this didn’t frighten children, nothing would. I was horrified at going within a mile of the area. When I was 12 I got my first introduction to the lake. Some friends goaded me into accompanying them to the site. Not wanting to be a sissy, I gave in and went to the dreaded Blue Hole with my friends. We rode our bikes around the perimeter and it seemed safe enough until a tough kid stopped me and pushed me down the fatal bank. I did go in and was quickly rescued by a fisherman with his cane pole. I rode home at high speed, alone and wet. I was traumatized for years by the dunking. And by my grandmother’s accurate assessment of the situation. Later, I showed my children the area and told them the stories. They said, “You must have been really gullible,” and I was. As I grew older, I found many other local people had been told, or heard of, the folklore and scare stories about the lake. In the 1970s the truth replaced the folklore. The University of WisconsinMilwaukee was experiencing growth and needed more parking area. A deal was struck with the Milwaukee County Park Commission allowing UWM to use the area of Cement Lake, commonly known as The Blue Hole. The newspaper article announcing the project stirred questions all over the area – “How can they drain a bottomless pit?” “What will the authorities do with the hundreds, if not thousands, of children’s bones and remains?” “What about the railroad train that was trapped when the levee broke, or was it a spring that was exposed by errant digging machinery?” The Milwaukee Journal printed a history of the lake – in the 1880s to early 1900s the area was extensively mined and quarried for limestone. The lake was called “Cement Lake.” Lime is an ingredient of cement. (See pp 6 & 7 for the Cement Mills story and pictures) There was a spur of the Chicago and Northwestern RR, still in existence behind the Humane Society in the 1970s, that had used to haul the limestone (thus the “lost train” connection.) The lake was actually a water-filled quarry, not a natural phenomenom. A short time later, the Journal announced that a contractor would start draining the lake by pumping. I would grab a Yankeeburger and coke at the “Pig” and drive to the site and eat my lunch while watching the operation. One day after weeks of pumping, a strange object started to emerge. What excitement – was this the locomotive of the missing train? After more pumping the mystery was solved. The object turned out to be a fairly well preserved, and very large, turn of the century oak wagon, no doubt used to haul limestone. The final draining revealed a limestone quarry about 15-20 feet deep, perfectly flat on the bottom. The water that filled it was from natural springs or spring floods. The blue effect was due to the white flat bottom and the clear impounded water. Now long since a parking lot, the folklore has been forgotten by most people. It is thought now that these horror stories were created to keep children away from a potentially dangerous area. 3 THOMAS BARE Founding Settler - Fiendish Murderer? by Mara Kuhlmann When the new Ghost Train (1) public art exhibit passes over Capitol Drive on Halloween this year, it will be following the train right-of-way that may never have existed if Shorewood’s founding settler, Thomas Bare, had gotten his way. Shorewood village lore has long told the story of the Shorewood Apple Orchard Standoff (2) where in the 1880’s Bare held train track workers at gunpoint, stopping progress of the train tracks through what is now Estabrook Park, but was then an apple orchard on Bare’s 90 acre lot. Progress on the railway only continued after a railway official of the Northwestern Union Railway arrived and compensated the landowner for the damage to his apple trees. History shows that this incident was not the first time that Thomas Bare’s temper got the better of him, and he resorted to threatened (or real) violence to resolve his concerns. In July, 1866, 150 years ago, Thomas Bare was bound over on murder charges for murdering his neighbor’s wife over a dispute about her dogs running loose on his property. Newspapers as far away as Sacramento reported on this story of the “Fiendish Murder - A Woman Cut to Death With a Scythe in the Hands of a Neighbor”.(3) Thomas Bare is known to be the first European settler of what is now the village of Shorewood. (4) In 1841 when he purchased his land, it was far off the beaten path, with all of the land between his property and what is now downtown Milwaukee covered 4 by heavy timber. In fact when two years later there was a smallpox outbreak, the Milwaukee board of supervisors chose to create the hospital (or pest house) near Bare’s property specifically because it was “so far from a residence as to justify no remonstrance to its use”. The Bares supplied fresh milk to this smallpox hospital through a careful hand-off of a milk can placed on a stump in the forest, which Mrs. Bare would then take, fill, and return to the stump without risking physical contact with the hospital staff. (5) The Bares learned to operate independently in their isolated frontier home. Twenty-five years later in 1866 more homes and farms had been settled, but it was not until 1900 that there were enough people in the area to meet the minimum 300 residents needed to found a separate village of East Milwaukee. (6) It was in this sparsely-populated settlement where Thomas Bare’s run-in with his neighbor occurred on July 19, 1866. In a graphic account, the Milwaukee Sentinel described how Bare killed his neighbor, Mrs. Hayes: “A couple of dogs belonging to Mrs. Hayes ran into the field where Bare was mowing. Bare started in pursuit with his scythe and cut one in two. Mrs. Hayes ran to save the other, when Bare told her that if she did not clear out he would serve her the same way. She stopped to pick up the dog, when he struck her with the point of the scythe, inflicting a terrible wound, which bled profusely. Mrs. Hayes started for the next field, in which her husband was at work, but was pursued and knocked down by Bare. He then either struck her on the back with the heel of his scythe or with his foot, injuring her spine severely. The woman was taken to her home and the wound dressed, but the flow of blood from her head could not be staunched and she bled profusely until her death on Sunday night.” When later arrested, Bare declared that the wounds inflicted upon the woman were “purely accidental and that he bore no malice toward her.” (7) As told by the newspaper story, this sounds like an open-and-shut case, but surprisingly Thomas Bare was acquitted of all charges. His case was tried before a Grand Jury in early August, and it was found that the blow struck by Bare was “purely accidental, and that, therefore, he could not be held for murder….The testimony revealed the fact that the woman was given to sudden outbursts of passion, and her death probably resulted from one of those, produced by the dispute with Bare.” (8) One can speculate why Thomas Bare was not convicted of any crime. Perhaps the newspaper story of July 24 describing the incident was overdramatized and embellished. The truth of the events may have come out in the courtroom setting. Another contributing factor may have been Bare’s strong legal representation by the former Governor of Wisconsin Edward Salomon. (9) The fact that Salomon agreed to represent Bare may be related to the fact that Bare’s son James enlisted in the Civil War in 1862 during a time when Governor Salomon was under direct pressure from Abraham Lincoln to provide recruits.(10) Perhaps the most likely possibility is that Thomas Bare’s testimony was more heavily-weighted because he was a man. The 1860’s was an era when laws offered little to no protection from crime against women. From the newspaper coverage it seems clear that they took the word of Thomas Bare that this was an accident, discrediting Elizabeth Hayes by arguing that she “was given to sudden outbursts of passion, and her death probably resulted from one of these, produced by the dispute with Bare.” (11) Whatever the story behind his acquittal, Thomas Bare remained a free man and returned to his wife and six children, living out the rest of his 84 years in the Shorewood area. His grave, and that of his oldest daughter Jane can be found at the Union Cemetery just north of the current Bayshore Town Mall on Port Washington Rd. (12) He died 130 years ago this month on Oct 28, 1886, just three days before Halloween. Mara Kuhlmann is a Life member of the Shorewood Historical Society, a resident of Shorewood since 1970 and a Shorewood High School grad. We encourage other members to submit articles for the newsletter on topics of interest to the writer and our reading audience. Contact editor Margaret Sankovitz or Karen de Hartog if you would like to submit an article. 1858 Map of Shorewood area (Town of Milwaukee. The Bare (Baer) farm is in the middle of the map (circled). Footnotes (1) Ghost Train Shorewood Historical Society Newsletter 2016 Issue 2 (2) Shorewood Apple Standoff - Milwaukee Notebook Aug 18, 2014 by John Swanson (3) Fiendish Murder, Chicago Tribune, July 25, 1865 (4) Shorewood Historical Society (5) “Early Settlers” paper read by Peter Johnston, Sept 6, 1897, published in Early Milwaukee, Papers from the Archives of the Old Settlers Club of Milwaukee Country, 1830-1890. First published 1916, republished 1977 by Roger Hunt, Madison, WI (6) July 24, 1866 Milwaukee Sentinel (7) Aug 7, 1866 Milwaukee Sentinel (8) July 31, 1866 Milwaukee Sentinel “Examination of Bare” (9) The Papers & Writings of Abraham Lincoln Volume 6. www.gutenberg.org “Call for 300,000 Volunteers, July 1, 1802” (10) August 10, 1866 Milwaukee Sentinel (11) US Federal Censuses 1850, 1860, 1870, 1880 US Find a Grave Index 1600s - Current Shorewood Historical Society 3930 N. Murray Ave. Shorewood WI 53211 www.shorewoodhistory.org Email: [email protected] The Sheldon Room, located in the Shorewood Village Center (3920 N. Murray Ave.) is open to visitors and researchers on Wednesdays, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. Sheldon Room Telephone: 414-847-2726 The Shorewood Historical Society is a nonprofit 501 (c)(3) organization. Your donations and in-kind gifts are tax-deductible as allowed by law. 5 “NEW” PICTURES OF THE MILWAUKEE CEMENT MILLS 6 At the invitation of the County Historical Society, we have a new venue for telling Shorewood history: the Kilbourntown House in Estabrook Park. Our first display tells the story of the Milwaukee Cement Mills. The display was in place for the annual Doors Open tour in September. We will add other stories to our “Shorewood Room” when the Kilbourntown House re-opens in the spring. While we were planning our display we found “new to us” pictures of the mills and the surrounding area in the collection of the Milwaukee County Library. All pictures printed here are used with permission of the Library. It is hard to imagine that the area we now know as Estabrook Park and a biking trail was once a busy, and probably noisy, industrial area where up to 100 people were employed to remove limestone from the Milwaukee River bed and surrounding bluffs and turn the limestone into natural cement. From 1876 to 1909, the Milwaukee Cement Company produced a huge quantity of cement from mills on both sides of the Milwaukee River, and shipped their product by rail for use all over the mid-west. MILWAUKEE CEMENT COMPANY MILL #1 Built in 1876, the first Milwaukee Cement Company mill was located on the east side of the Milwaukee River at the end of Gruber St., (currently E. Congress St.) just west of the railroad tracks. By 1891 Milwaukee Cement Company’s annual production was 475,000 barrels (about 125 million lbs.) making Milwaukee the largest producer of natural cement in the United States. Note the conveyer on the left moving quarried limestone to the top of the kiln. The product produced in this mill was regarded as the standard for natural cement in the United States. Sales extended through half of the country and Milwaukee cement was used for bridges across the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. MILWAUKEE CEMENT COMPANY MILL #2 With business booming, the company acquired land on the west bank of the river and built a second mill just north of present day Capitol Drive in 1888. The cement works were massive – producing 530 tons each day – but short-lived. The kilns operated for only about 25 years. The invention of the rotary kiln made the manufacture of Portland cement cheaper and more profitable than the manufacture of the natural cement. By 1909 Mills # 1 and #2 were closed. Because the river did the work of topsoil removal, the company diverted the channel and quarried the riverbed, resulting in a pair of man-made lakes. The largest was named Cement Lake and the smaller was named Blue Hole. Both were used for swimming after the mills closed, but dangerous drop-offs and underwater ledges and caves resulted in numerous deaths. Blue Hole (on the west side of the river, across from the current dog park) was filled in the 1930s. Cement Lake was used as a rubbish dump in the 1920’s. Eventually it was paved over, and the area is currently the UWM parking lot. Approximately 100 men were needed to remove the limestone rock from horizontal and vertical quarry shafts. Rock was moved to the mills on small train cars pulled by engines like “Flora.” HUBBARD MYSTERY In our last issue, we asked if anyone knew the story behind a concrete square, obviously old, near the river in Hubbard Park. We speculated that it might have something to do with the old amusement park. Byrda Raffe says she believes there was once a bubbler in that location in Hubbard Park. Sue Rebholz didn’t have a guess about the square, but related a story about the house across the street from her home on the corner of Morris and Menlo at the Hubbard Park entrance. The house was moved from the 3900 block of Murray when then the block was being redeveloped with several apartments being erected. When the basement for the house at its new site was dug a big chunk of concrete was found and it was surmised that it was part of a foundation of a ride at the amusement park. 7 3930 North Murray Avenue Shorewood, WI 53211 Here Comes the Ghost Train! October 31 • 6 – 7:30 p.m. • Capitol Drive Bridge HALLOWEEN EVENING
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