AR-0202 Matilda Mk III “Desert” Backdate (TAM)
(TAMIYA 35300)
Mastered by Mike Sills
Copyright © 2009 All right reserved
CAUTION
Tigermodels uses mold release agents to aid in demolding. Mold release agents may prevent paint
from properly adhering to resin surfaces. To avoid
this, we recommend that you wash all resin pieces
in warm, soapy water. For an even better result, use
an appropriate primer before applying the finish
paint.
INFANTRY TANK MK IIA* (MATILDA III) “DESERT UPDATE”
Resin is a soft plastic, and is susceptible to
warping. In most cases, it is possible to repair
warped parts by placing them in a hot water bath for
a few seconds. You can also try heating them with
a heat gun or hair dryer. After heating the resin
enough to return to its original shape, simply set it
aside and allow it to cool slowly. If this does not
work, please contact Tigermodels for a replacement
part.
The first Matildas sent to the Middle East arrived with the APOLOGY convoy in September 1940. The 50 tanks for 7 RTR
included both AEC-powered Infantry Tank Mk IIA (Matilda II) and Leyland-powered Infantry Tank Mk IIA*(Matilda III).
Fourteen of the tanks arrived with the “jacked” suspension. Extensive rework was required to restore them to their original
configuration, and the local workshops complained bitterly to GHQME. All the tanks required specific modification for service
in the desert, although this was less extensive than for other types. The side skirts deflected sand and dust thrown by the tracks,
so locally fabricated sand shields were not required. Extra fittings for external stowage were deemed unsuitable since infantry
tanks were expected to take considerable punishment and anything stowed externally could easily be shot away. An exception
was made for the fitting of a rack that could hold six 2-gallon Petrol, Oil, Water (POW) cans. This was mounted across the
back of the tank where it was thought it would be least vulnerable.
Resin pieces can be difficult to remove from their
casting gates. We recommend a razor saw or rotary
tool with a circular cutting blade.
CAUTION: rein dust can be harmful to your health.
Always work in a well ventilated area, and wear a
dust mask while sawing or sanding.
CAUTION: This product may contain lead. Lead can
be very harmful to your health. Always wash your
hands after handling these materials.
CAUTION: This product may contain photo-etched
parts. Photo-etched parts may be sharp. Care
should be used to avoid cutting yourself while
handling these parts.
CAUTION: this product may not be meant for
children less than 10 years of age. This product
may contain materials that could be harmful to your
health, and small parts that may present a choking
hazard.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF SMALL CHILDREN!
5305 Bertha Nelson Rd.
Panama City, FL 32404
Phone: (850) 890-2080
Copyright ® All Rights Reserved 2009
From 1940-42, the British struggled to defend their assets in the Middle East. The campaign centered on control of the narrow
coastal plain that lies between the Mediterranean Sea and the North African Desert, and it was in the battles fought there that
the Matilda would achieve renown.
More Matildas followed. Almost all were Leyland powered Infantry Tank Mk IIA* (Matilda III). Succeeding shipments of
tanks received the same pattern of locally applied “desert” fittings. The appearance of Matildas changed very little during the
campaign, and most variations between vehicles were differences in the construction of the basic tank. A series of
improvements was introduced during Mk III production (for details, please refer to “Matilda Mk IV”). A small number of late
production Mk IIIs arrived as the campaign ended, but the classic desert battles would be fought with the early production
series of this variant.
The Tamiya kit is an amalgam of Mk III and Mk IV features. The “Desert Update” set provides replacement parts for
components of the kit that are inappropriate for an early Matilda III, and parts for the fittings commonly added to vehicles
serving in the desert. Photographs are always the best source for determining the exact configuration of a specific vehicle. The
following should be regarded as guidance only.
The first tanks in operation COMPASS did not feature the cutouts in the front fenders and usually retained the fender
mudguards. By operation BATTLEAXE in June 1941, most replacement vehicles lacked the mudguards and alternative tracks
were appearing. The late pattern (T.D. 5910) cast track was not yet available, but some tanks were provided with an interim
modification of the original stamped track, with a rib overshoe welded (later cast) on the outer face.
Matilda numbers reached their peak in November 1941 when four battalions deployed with the type for operation
CRUSADER. Improvements can be observed on many of these tanks. The original louvered stowage locker covers might be
replaced with the non-louvered style, or the louvers covered with welded sheet. Some tanks had the appliqué armor added
below the driver’s visor, usually in the form of a rectangular block (TMD offers parts to model these features separately). Some
tanks had locally fabricated sheet metal dust guards on their fenders in lieu of the original mudguards. These varied in
construction, and appear to have been short-lived. CRUSADER saw the first use of “Sun Shield”. This was the codeword for a
deceptive measure intended to disguise a tank as a lorry, using a removable overhead canvas rig. Six brackets to hold
the rig were installed on the side skirts, and remained after the rig was taken down.
No. 9 Wireless/Telegraph (distinguishable by a single aerial mast on a pivoting “trapeze” mount) was standard
throughout the entire campaign. Although Matildas were built with fittings for the No.19 set and its twin aerials from
early 1941, there was a shortage of the new sets. Home forces were given priority, and tanks in the Middle East had to
make do with the earlier equipment. A circular cover plate was installed over the access for the unused second aerial
mount. No.19 did not become widely available until mid-1942, but by then the Matilda was obsolete and being phased
out. Only a few Matilda IIICS late in the campaign were provided with it.
It is rash to say “always” or “never”, but I have found no evidence of any Matilda serving in the Middle East equipped
with the auxiliary fuel tank provided by Tamiya. This was a feature of the later Mk IV.
AR-0212
Matildas rarely displayed the copious external stowage of personal gear commonly seen on other tank types in the
desert. They were employed in a specialized role, and did not go swanning about “up the Blue”, out of range of their
support units.
After CRUSADER, the Matilda’s influence waned. Its primary asset (thick armor) was no longer proof against
improved anti-tank guns, and its drawbacks (poor mobility, inadequate armament) were increasing liabilities. A small
number (including some late production Mk III and IIICS with track skids and external hinge side skirts) were present at
Gazala/Knightsbridge in May 1942, but most were lost in the retreat and the fall of Tobruk. The last action fought by
Matildas in British service was operation SPLENDOUR on July 22, 1942, wherein four Matilda IIICS accompanied 23rd
AB in the assault on Ruweisat Ridge.
X3
X2
AR-0208
2XA
4XF
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MATILDA III CONVERSION
•SUSPENSION COVERS
Direct replacement parts for kit parts E1 and E3.
•TRACK RETURN RAILS
New parts. The longer rails (marked “F”) are for the forward and middle positions. The shorter rails (marked “A”) are used in the aft position. Locate and
align the rails as shown in the diagram. The “feet” on the rail assemblies should be aligned over the squares etched into the resin suspension covers
mentioned above.
•SIDE SKIRTS
Direct replacement parts for kit parts E2 and E16.
•CENTER NOSE CASTING
Direct replacement part for kit part C4. The sides of the casting have been added as per the prototype. To install this part will require removal of
part of the tab molded on the front of the lower hull.
•NOSE LOCKER COVERS
These are optional. Mk III Matildas could be found with or without the squares cast into these armor sections. Direct replacement parts for kit parts C11
and C12. The early lifting eyes are early mounting plates are included as well. They are direct replacements for the kit parts.
•REAR HULL REPLACEMENT
This is also optional. Again, Mk III Matildas were often found without the rear-mounted fuel tank. You can fill the holes for the mounts on the kit part and
replace any lost texture, or you can splice the casting onto your kit hull instead.
POW RACK
Many Mk III Matildas in desert service were seen with a POW rack mounted to the rear hull. This rack holds 6 British “flimsies” containing water and/or
fuel. We have provided the PE parts needed to build this rack, as well as 6 resin flimsie castings. This is an optional assembly and will depend on the tank
you are representing.
LAKEMAN MOUNT
We provided the Lakeman AA MG mount as another option. Many of the Mk IV Matildas sent to Russia were seen with this device mounted. Follow the
instructions for assembly, and/or refer to your own references for more clarification on this mount.
The rest of this kit should be pretty straight forward. Most of the pieces we have provided are direct replacements for the kit parts. If you have any
questions, you can email me, or ask the guys on www.track-link.net. They are a wonderful source of information and I’m sure they will be able to help you.
“A” for aft (short) skid
“F” for forward (long) skid
Skid “feet” should be aligned to cover the squares etched
into the suspension covers as shown in the close up.
IF you decide to splice the resin rear end to your kit, start by carefully removing the kit
section as shown. I used a pair of sprue snips and then cleaned up the hull with an XActo blade and sanding stick. It was pretty easy.
Next, glue the resin replacement piece to the rear of the kit hull as shown in the two
pictures to the right. Finally, glue kit part #’s C23 to the rear of the resin replacement
and you’re done.
OPTIONAL
Resin flimsie X 6
Top hold down (separate PE)
Two thin pieces to make 90’ support bracket under rear edge of rack
NOTE: remember, the POW rack was a field
modification. There is no “correct” way to
make this rack. Use your judgment.
Use the PE and the resin flimsies
to construct the POW rack as
shown on this page.
The
separate, smaller PE sheet is the
top hold down that goes over the
flimsies when they are in the
rack. The 2 long, thin pieces on
the main PE sheet are used to
make a 90 deg brace that goes
under the rack to strengthen it
when the flimsies are mounted.
OPTIONAL
NOTE: The PE sheet has a slight flaw in it, but it still works. The back brackets that hold the entire rack to the rear of the tank looped
over the rear tow hook mounts and should be tight against the top of the mounting plate for the tow eyes. The break on the back side of the
PE is in the wrong location. The pictures above show the INCORRECT way to assemble the mounts for the POW rack. The picture on the
page before this shows the way these brackets should really work. If you are careful, you can correct the break in the bend to make the
brackets look correct. We apologize for this error, but it can be corrected.
One other note. The brackets in the PE sheet have dimples on the backside. You can use a pencil or other round point to push them out to
represent the mounting rivets. In these pictures, I just reversed the brackets to show the dimpled side so you can see where the rivet heads
would have gone. See arrows. You may also need to sand the flimsies a bit. TEST FIT, TEST FIT, TEST FIT!!!
The round antenna
blank plate and sand
shield mounts are both
optional.
Shown
installed
in
the
pictures to either side.
To assemble the Lakeman mount, start by using the new
cupola hatch cover as shown.
Then glue the pin on the left side of the suspension arm
to the hole on the right side of the vertical support tube
cast onto the new hatch as shown.
Now, assemble the MG as shown in the pictures. Then make a small bracket out of
scrap plastic stock and glue it to the top of the ammo drum as shown. And find some
thin wire or solder to make a suspension strap so you can rig the MG to the suspension
arm as we have shown in these pictures. Your personal references may show some
variations to this design, but we have given you the pieces to make most of them. This is
just one representation of several possibilities.
Next, glue the three counter balance springs in place
as shown. The bottom of each spring to one of the
pins on the bracket cast onto the new hatch and the
other end of the spring to the center and either end
of the suspension arm.