FEAST
FEAST
Photo courtesy Toners of Baggot Street
DUBLIN 37 NICK NUTTING 40 BOOZY MILKSHAKES 42 FREDERICTON 44
DRINK UP
DUBLIN PUBS
Raise a pint of Guinness at one
of these authentic spots.
There’s no shortage of saloons across the globe claiming to be
“Irish,” but to experience the true heart of Irish pub culture,
nothing beats the real thing.
“The Irish pub is so much more about conversation, a sense
of humour and respect than it is about alcohol,” explains
filmmaker Alex Fegan, who explores the Emerald Isle’s top taprooms in his acclaimed documentary, The Irish Pub. “Without
the people, great Irish pubs would be nothing.”
On the next page are Fegan’s four recommendations for the
most historic, notable pubs in Ireland’s capital city.
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1
TONERS OF BAGGOT STREET
One of Dublin’s oldest establishments, Toners has been pouring
pints for almost 200 years. Boasting
1 John Kavanagh
(a.k.a. The Gravediggers)
2 The Palace Bar
a gorgeous, rustic interior adorned
with original features dating back
to when it first opened as a bar
and grocery store, Toners deserves
its recent title of Best Traditional
2
Pub (earned at Ireland’s National
also hosted such bands as Mum-
of serving gravediggers who used
its well-worn Victorian mahogany
on Fleet Street was the unofficial
ford & Sons, and its renowned
to bang their shovels on the exte-
and walls decked out in antique
head office of The Irish Times. A
literary patrons have included
rior walls when they were thirsty.
theatrical posters from the famous
favourite hangout of mid-century
Dracula author Bram Stoker and
The historic pub has been in the
(but now demolished) Theatre
newspaper editor “Bertie” Smyllie,
legendary Nobel prize-winning
Kavanagh family for six genera-
Royal across the street, Mulligans
it was not only a popular meet-
poet W.B. Yeats—the only place
tions and has managed to keep so
is a spot that fills its guests with a
ing place among Dublin literati, it
where he would reportedly imbibe
much of its traditional charm that
sense of history. After all, author
was also where a hobbyist named
in public. (tonerspub.ie)
it will be featured as a location in
and one-time regular James Joyce
Derek Crozier invented the cryptic
an upcoming movie by celebrated
referenced it in his writing, and
crossword in 1943. Like all pubs of
JOHN KAVANAGH
Irish filmmaker Jim Sheridan (My
John F. Kennedy sipped pints within
its day, it boasts plenty of gritty
(A.K.A. THE GRAVEDIGGERS)
Left Foot). (facebook.com/JohnKa-
the bar’s wise walls long before he
character and a cozy “snug room”
If you’re looking to throw a true
vanaghTheGravediggers)
became president of the United
that is rumoured to have been
States. (mulligans.ie)
where revolutionary Michael Col-
Irish wake, The Gravediggers may
be the ideal venue. Located next
MULLIGANS
to Glasnevin Cemetery, John Kava-
This storied watering hole has been
THE PALACE BAR
the Irish War of Independence.
nagh’s 182-year-old pub earned its
entertaining patrons for nearly
For many years, this stained
(thepalacebardublin.com)
nickname from a reputed history
three centuries. Highlighted by
glass-accentuated Victorian pub
—Steve Gow
lins held secret meetings during
MAY 2015 WESTJETMAGAZINE.COM
Photos: 1. Christopher O’Grady/chrisogrady.com, 2. Therese Aherne
Hospitality Awards). The bar has