17 March 2016 Americas/United States Equity Research Specialty Softlines Softlines and Retail Research Analysts Christian Buss 212 325 9667 [email protected] Michael Exstein 212 325 4147 [email protected] David Hartley, CFA 416 352 4580 [email protected] Sara Shuler 212 325 7643 [email protected] Pallavi Bakshi 212 538 8434 [email protected] INDUSTRY PRIMER Revolution in the Softlines Brand Landscape: Digital Is the New Wholesale We believe the sophistication of digital platforms and technology has led to a new brand building paradigm and a structural shift in how brand equity will be derived in the global softlines industry. We now see digital commerce and marketing as the primary and most effective mechanisms for building softlines brands, replacing the historical gatekeepers of third-party retailers and mass media marketing. This structural change has reduced the barriers to entry for new brands, created opportunities for brands to build profitable enterprises much earlier in their lifecycle, and created competition where scale and retailer relationships have historically provided high barriers to entry. Adding to this erosion of support for the traditional brand-building model, the rise of onlineonly marketplaces like Amazon, backcountry.com, wish.com, YOOX, and ASOS, as well as subscription-based models like Birchbox and Trunk Club creates a new distribution channel for brands whose primary relationship with its customers is digital. This report evaluates the consequences of this radical shift across the softlines landscape, and highlights our preference for: Best-in-class digital apparel marketplaces like Amazon and Zalando. Companies capable of converting messaging and sales channels into the consumer-first digital realm, particularly Nike, lululemon, Under Armour, and possibly Coach, Columbia, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany, VF Corp. Brands. Online-only upstarts lacking legacy distribution and marketing models like Bonobos, Warby Parker, Everlane, Harry's, Dollar Shave Club. Companies with the capital and predisposition to diversify through acquisitions like Coach, Urban Outfitters, Under Armour, Nordstrom, Hudson's Bay Company. We are increasingly cautious on traditional specialty retailers with outsized store footprints (LB, GPS) and those with heavy reliance on third-party brands that are likely to go direct over time (DSW, FL, FINL, ZUMZ). We downgrade shares of LB to Neutral as a result and reiterate our cautious stance on DSW, FL, FINL, GPS, and ZUMZ. ■ eCommerce Will Continue To Deliver Outsized Growth As Distribution Mix-Shift Moves Towards A Sustainable Balance. While physical stores are struggling with traffic declines, eCommerce growth rates continue to accelerate. eCommerce has generated over 50% of total apparel industry growth over the last four quarters. We expect this trend to persist and see DISCLOSURE APPENDIX AT THE BACK OF THIS REPORT CONTAINS IMPORTANT DISCLOSURES, ANALYST CERTIFICATIONS, AND THE STATUS OF NON-US ANALYSTS. US Disclosure: Credit Suisse does and seeks to do business with companies covered in its research reports. As a result, investors should be aware that the Firm may have a conflict of interest that could affect the objectivity of this report. Investors should consider this report as only a single factor in making their investment decision. CREDIT SUISSE SECURITIES RESEARCH & ANALYTICS BEYOND INFORMATION® Client-Driven Solutions, Insights, and Access 17 March 2016 opportunity for eCommerce to reach 35-40% of total softlines industry sales over time, a threshold approached by fast-movers in the space where consumer preferences have shifted quickly (teen apparel for instance). ■ Acquiring Digital Expertise Might Be More Valuable Than Building It. As traditional retail companies work to understand and capitalize on eCommerce growth, acquisition activity may increase as online brands and companies are purchased in order to gain core digital competency more effectively. Companies that have grown up online seem to have a deeper understanding of the customer base within that unique channel which could unlock value for a traditional company. Likewise, M&A could also provide a vehicle for online start-ups to expand into the physical world with a partner who understands real estate and store distribution. We see early signs of this in Nordstrom's acquisitions of Haute Look and Trunk Club, and Hudson's Bay Company's acquisition of Gilt Groupe. ■ Broadlines View. The mall anchors with the largest footprints are no longer the gatekeepers for growth for emerging brands, but mall anchors remain an important distribution channel. Although department store focused distribution may no longer be one of the first steps in building brand equity, this retail format still plays an important part in broadening distribution. As emerging brands mature, select department store doors can serve as a physical distribution channel, in lieu of owned retail stores or to supplement owned retail stores to reach new markets. This shift in the mall anchors' role in developing emerging brands suggests that the best positioned mall anchors are no longer the ones with the largest quantity of doors but rather possessing the highest quality, which will allow brands to selectively expand while sustaining or even expanding brand equity. ■ A Note On Hudson's Bay. Ecommerce is an important component of the organic growth story of HBC.TO—a story that may be both undermined (higher retail rents) and overshadowed by the real estate monetization story. eCommerce sales tend to replace brick-and-mortar sales at the DSG banners and at Saks, but perhaps at a lower margin. However, the acquisition of Gilt Groupe and its subsequent integration with the Saks Off Fifth banner’s brick-and-mortar business may actually provide an opportunity for complementary growth in eCommerce and brick-and-mortar sales at these banners. Softlines and Retail 2 17 March 2016 Online Brand Building – The New Paradigm Online Brand Building Is Likely A Better Mousetrap. Innate advantages include: 1) Initial lower cost of capital; 2) Higher IMU's; 3) Controlled merchandising and messaging; 4) Direct, often instant, consumer feedback; 5) Benefits from the trend of consumers shifting spend to eCommerce from brick-and-mortar; 6) More personalized and customizable products and services; 7) When establishing distribution, seamless inventory is already factored into the equation; and 8) Internet marketing, the new model's primary source of spend, allows for rapid purchasing and feedback loop, versus traditional media in the old model. Figure 1: Traditional Model – Wholesale Brand Building BRAND POWER Traditional Model Expansion - Online Cost $ Brand Awareness Owned Retail - Build Out Cost $$$$ Incubate - In stores Cost $$$ Market - Mass Media (Magazines, Newspapers, Billboards, TV) Cost $$ Wholesale Stores Cost $$ Or Retail Store Cost $$$$ Brand Concept Cost $$ Time BRAND POWER New Model Incubate - Online Cost $$ Market - Social Media (Instagram, Blogs, Facebook) Cost $ Owned eCommerce Cost $ Expansion - Wholesale Cost $$ Brand Awareness Owned Retail - Build Out Cost $$$$ Brand Concept Cost $$ Time Source: Credit Suisse Equity Research Softlines and Retail 3 17 March 2016 eCommerce Sales Growth at a Watershed Our analysis of eCommerce and brick-and-mortar growth suggests that we reached a watershed moment, with eCommerce generating more than 50% of sales and profit growth for the overall apparel industry. Analysis of U.S. Census Bureau data on eCommerce sales and extrapolation of recent growth trends across the softlines industry suggests that over the next 15 years, the overall softlines industry in the United States: ■ Could grow to $390B in revenue from $340B ■ Can sustain a 1.4% CAGR from 2015-2030. However, growth will not be distributed evenly. We believe that eCommerce: ■ Has potential to approach 37.5% of total softlines industry sales ■ Could generate $94B in incremental revenue ■ Can sustain a multi-year CAGR of 7%. Brick and mortar stores, on the other hand: ■ Could fall to 62.5% of total industry sales ■ Could give up $19B in total sales volume ■ Grow at a multi-year GAGR of -0.5%. We believe brands that start online will be a primary beneficiary of this structural spending shift. We also see opportunity for online brand aggregators as well as traditional brands capable of converting their messaging and sales channels away from mass marketing into the new consumer-first digital realm. Figure 2: Softlines Sales Growth And eCommerce Penetration 2015-2030 Softlines Industry Sales CAGR 7.1% 1.4% US Softlines Sales -0.5% US Brick and Mortar US eCommerce Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Softlines and Retail 4 17 March 2016 Figure 3: Softlines eCommerce Penetration Softlines eCommerce Penetration 37.5% 40.0% 32.6% 35.0% 30.0% 25.3% 25.0% 20.0% 16.7% 15.0% 8.4% 10.0% 5.0% 3.3% 0.8% 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016E 2017E 2018E 2019E 2020E 2021E 2022E 2023E 2024E 2025E 2026E 2027E 2028E 2029E 2030E 0.0% Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Figure 4: eCommerce, Brick-And-Mortar Sales Breakout Softlines Sales Growth Y/Y 350,000 140,000 300,000 120,000 250,000 100,000 200,000 80,000 150,000 60,000 40,000 100,000 20,000 50,000 eCommerce Softlines sales 2029E 2027E 2025E 2023E 2021E 2019E 2015 2017E 2013 2011 2009 2007 2005 2003 2001 0 1999 0 25.0% 20.0% 15.0% 10.0% 5.0% 0.0% -5.0% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016E 2017E 2018E 2019E 2020E 2021E 2022E 2023E 2024E 2025E 2026E 2027E 2028E 2029E 2030E 160,000 Brick and Mortar Retail Sales eCommerce Softlines Sales Softlines Industry Sales Brick and Mortar Retail Sales Brick and Mortar Retail Sales eCommerce Softlines sales Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Figure 5: Total Softlines Sales, Growth Rate Total Softlines Sales 410,000 390,000 370,000 350,000 330,000 310,000 290,000 270,000 250,000 Total Softlines Sales Growth Y/Y 7.0% 6.0% 5.0% 4.0% 3.0% 2.0% 1.0% Softlines Sales dollars 2030E 2029E 2028E 2027E 2026E 2025E 2024E 2022E 2023E 2021E 2020E 2019E 2018E 2017E 2015 2016E 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 0.0% Softlines Sales Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Softlines and Retail 5 17 March 2016 Resolving The Online Profit Problem One area of deep concern with respect to this rise of online sales is the current profit challenges faced by the eCommerce business model in the softlines industry. A combination of low average unit retail prices, high shipping costs, high competition, and underutilized, immature infrastructure across the softlines industry has led to eCommerce softline industry operating margins well below those of traditional brick-and-mortar retailers. We estimate total profit margins for eCommerce are currently 250-300bp below those of traditional stores, or 7%, versus traditional store margins of 10%. As mix shifts online, there are likely the following two pressures on total industry operating margin: ■ Declining productivity of brick-and-mortar stores pressuring store margins ■ Aggregate mix shifts to lower-margin eCommerce channel As a result, we view it as likely that overall softlines industry margins deteriorate over the next several years, with our long-term model suggesting that total industry operating margins may decline from a peak of 10% in 2000 to a trough of 8.8% in 2020. When combined with overall industry growth of 1-2%, this suggests a multi-year period of very low growth in operating profits for the U.S. softlines industry. From 2015-2020, we estimate a total profit CAGR of 0.2%. Figure 6: Softlines Sales Growth And eCommerce Penetration Softlines Operating Margin 10.50% 10.00% 9.50% 9.00% 8.50% 2029E 2027E 2025E 2023E 2021E 2019E 2017E 2015 2013 2011 2009 2007 2005 2003 2001 1999 8.00% Softlines Operating Margin Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Profit challenges are highly likely to be heavily weighted to brick-and mortar locations, where deleverage of rent and infrastructure is likely to be a significant problem in the nearto mid-term. Our long-term estimate is for: ■ Total brick-and-mortar profit declines averaging 1.5% Y/Y over the next 15 years, ■ eCommerce profit growth CAGR of 10.8%, ■ eCommerce to represent 46% of total industry profits by 2030. Softlines and Retail 6 17 March 2016 Figure 7: Softlines Industry Profit CAGR 2015-2030 Softlines Industry Profit CAGR 10.8% 1.6% -1.5% US Softlines - Operating Profit US Brick and Mortar Operating Profit US eCommerce - Operating Profit Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau However, we do expect store margin declines to moderate following a period of store rationalization and mall closures, alleviating some of this pressure. More importantly, we expect shipping cost challenges to moderate as expanded industry distribution infrastructure reduces cost and time to ship, while infrastructure investment in systems, facilities, and IT are likely to leverage as the sector gains scale. As a result, we anticipate continued improvement in eCommerce retail profit margins, with online profit margins eclipsing store margins beginning in 2023. As a result, we expect the overall drag on profits from eCommerce to reverse, with the online segment subsidizing profits from 2023 to 2030. Figure 8: Softlines Sales Growth And eCommerce Penetration Softlines Operating Margin eCommerce Operating Margin 2030E 2029E 2028E 2027E 2026E 2025E 2024E 2023E 2022E 2021E 2020E 2019E 2018E 2017E 2015 2016E 2014 2013 2012 2011 14.0% 12.0% 10.0% 8.0% 6.0% 4.0% 2.0% 0.0% Brick and Mortar Operating Margin eCommerce Margin Impact On Industry Profit 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016E 2017E 2018E 2019E 2020E 2021E 2022E 2023E 2024E 2025E 2026E 2027E 2028E 2029E 2030E 160bps 140bps 120bps 100bps 80bps 60bps 40bps 20bps 0bps -20bps -40bps -60bps Source: Credit Suisse estimates, U.S. Census Bureau Softlines and Retail 7 17 March 2016 Store Count Figure 9: Coverage Universe – Store Count Owned Store Count 3432 3273 3005 1520 1500 974 932 931 658 642 623 576 480 465 434 419 354 305 252 191 177 145 100 Source: Company data eCommerce Penetration Figure 10: Specialty Softlines - eCommerce As A % Of Sales eCommerce Penetration 28.9% 22.5% 22.0% 16.0% 16.0% 15.8% 15.2% 14.0% 13.5% 13.0% 12.8% 12.1% 10.4% 9.4% 8.8% 7.9% 6.0% 4.9% 4.1% 3.8% 3.6% 1.1% URBN VRA ANF AEO EXPR LB GPS OXM ZUMZ TUMI DECK FL ARO ASNA CROX BKE TIF SIG NKE FRAN VFC SKX Source: Company data, Credit Suisse estimates Softlines and Retail 8 17 March 2016 Advantages Of Online Brand Building The new model of fostering a brand Online, versus 3rd party distribution, offers many natural advantages, which we believe unlocks a unique value proposition. Cost Of Capital We believe Online brand building benefits from a low initial cost of capital structure. If we look at the first four steps in brand building, before mass expansion comes into play, we estimate that starting a brand Online is 1.5x less expensive than 3 rd party distribution and 6x less expensive than starting from a physical retail store concept. Brand Concept – We believe this stage, which includes brand definition, aesthetic, logos, and creation of show samples, is relatively the same cost, no matter what channel a brand originates. Inception – This includes the launch of the brand. We estimate Online start-ups can spend as little as a few thousand dollars to launch a hosted website. Brands that start with 3rd party distribution must work out terms with their partner covering logistics to markdowns and potential returns. There may also be requirements from the 3 rd party distributor for products to be sold in their stores, which could add additional costs. Brands that start from an owned retail store are likely to have the highest costs given lease commitments, renovations, and staffing expenses. Marketing – Online start-ups tend to dedicate most of marketing spend online and on social media platforms. This requires little to no cost to initiate and reach a broad consumer base. Brands that start in stores tend to follow the more traditional media channels. They create formal ad campaigns and circulate in newspapers, magazines, billboards, and television, which is a more costly approach. Incubation – At this stage brands have had some success and work to capitalize on it. Online brands may spend more money to enhance their website platform or may turn to an eCommerce department store to further foster the brand online. When going through physical 3rd party distribution, this stage may require extra costs to update presentation in stores with new fixtures or shop-in-shops. Figure 11: Initial Cost Of Capital Analysis Initial Cost of Capital 6x higher 1.5x higher Lowest Cost New Model - Online Old Model - Wholesale Old Model - Retail Source: Credit Suisse estimates Softlines and Retail 9 17 March 2016 Higher IMUs Fostering brands Online also allows for higher IMU's as revenue and profits are fully captured versus selling to 3rd Party distributors. We estimate that in general, brands receive about 56% mark-up when selling to 3rd party partners compared to an 80% IMU when selling directly. If the at-retail value of goods is $100k, for example, that equates to an $80k profit for the brand versus a $25k profit through wholesale partners. We believe this more profitable avenue combined with a lower cost of capital model can help new brands online generate cash and reach a break-even point at a faster rate. Figure 12: Average IMU Comparison IMU Comparison 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0% 80% 56% 1 3rd Party Model - Brand IMU Owned Online - Brand IMU Source: Credit Suisse estimates More Flexible Pricing Options Some online start-ups are using this IMU gap to help compete on price and quality for consumers. Online brands such as Everlane, Maison Standards, and Cuyana have provided a value proposition for consumers by providing quality styles at lower prices than if they were sold in stores. Softlines and Retail 10 17 March 2016 Marketing Brands that develop online tend to favor digital media for marketing as opposed to traditional media. Traditional media requires brands to create costly ad campaigns, with sets and styling, for the looks they wish to feature. Just before goods hit store floors, campaigns are circulated in newspapers, fashion magazines, television etc. This is intended to drive customers to the store to buy the latest product. From campaign inception to sale of product can take months. Online start-up brands tend to focus marketing spend where they are already familiar, the internet. This can be done at little or no up-front cost in initial stages via twitter, Facebook, and Instagram. This may also include webpage banner advertising, search engine optimization, and product placement via influencers. Imagery can be refreshed daily, a consumer can click on the link, purchase, and comment within a day. If we add in shipment time, the entire process can be completed in as little as a week. We believe that word-of-mouth remains the most powerful form of advertising. The beauty of social media is that it personalizes and amplifies word-of-mouth endorsements, which we believe can help accelerate brand growth when positive. Consequently, negative feedback can cause rapid deterioration of brand equity. Figure 13: Marketing Cycle – Traditional Media Old Model Ad Campaign Created Store Visits/Sales Media Buzz Can take months from campaign to sale to media buzz….. New Model Digital/Social Media Marketing Website Traffic/Sales Media Buzz Can be acheived within a week Source: Credit Suisse research, Credit Suisse estimates Softlines and Retail 11 17 March 2016 Enhanced Editorial Content Online brands have also enhanced the marketing editorial content game. Brands can create content online themselves that is able to be searched and saved, which can likely reach a more broad distribution network than typical fashion magazines in the past. We believe these efforts are also more personal and intimate than via the traditional model and consumers can react, click, and likely generate sales at a more rapid pace. Key content drivers include: ■ Designer's blogs – This helps give consumers an inside look at designers' personal lives and fashion picks. ■ Inspirational tips and pictures – Instagram and Pintrest have become vehicles for brands to post inspiring pictures to and from consumers featuring their products. ■ How-To tutorials – This type of content helps instruct consumers how to wear or style looks. This also helps establish and build expertise that keeps the consumer going back to the brand. ■ Insider Industry Knowledge Content – Expanding platforms for industry content to underscore brand expertise. For example online specialty wholesaler SurfStitch bought magicseaweed which is the go-to source for surf reports and forecasts, reinforcing the sites expertise on all things surf-related. Softlines and Retail 12 17 March 2016 Distribution Considerations We believe online brand building offers the same expansion opportunities as the traditional 3rd party model. In our opinion, brands that launch with an owned physical retail store tend to stick to a retail exclusive model and typically do not expand into wholesale distribution channels (such as Victoria's Secret, Gap, lululemon). Brands that start with 3rd party distribution tend to keep that model and expand upon it, but may also open owned retail stores and establish owned websites for eCommerce. Online start-ups begin with owned eCommerce, but have the option to expand to physical retail stores or 3rd party distribution, which we believe offers brands the same flexibility as the traditional model. Advantages of 3rd Party Distribution: Lower fixed cost base, more opportunity for multiple door expansion across geographies. Disadvantages: Lower IMU, some loss of control on product placement and markdown strategy Advantages of Owned Distribution: Full control of customer experience and product presentation, Higher IMU. Disadvantages: Higher fixed costs, slower rollout to new locations Figure 14: Distribution Matrix Distribution Mode: Brand Building Mode: Department Store Specialty Store Retail Stores Retail Online eCommerce Department Store 3rd Party Distributor Traditional Model Owned Store New Model Owned Online Source: Credit Suisse estimates DC Build-Out, Seamless Inventory Building out distribution centers and logistics infrastructure is a challenge and a big expense for any brand, regardless of how a brand is launched. However, we believe that brands built online already have the Omnichannel mentality integrated into their planning. These brands are more likely to build out distribution capabilities from the onset with seamless inventory already factored into the equation. Traditional brand building models have historically siloed orders, and inventory, by channel. This meant that brands built out logistics capabilities in this manner, and consequently, has led to significant re-invests to convert the outdated, compartmentalized systems so they are Omnichannel ready, a process which most traditional brands and retailers are still working through. Softlines and Retail 13 17 March 2016 What Does This Mean For Wholesale? We believe the online revolution represents a shift in brand building, which is a separate topic from distribution. We believe building a brand online represents a shift in cultivation power away from the traditional model. Power is in the hands of the brands now more than ever, with wholesalers increasingly relying on new, upcoming brands to help drive relevance and traffic into their doors. That said, while we believe wholesale as a distribution model is still relevant and necessary, the traditional models are transitioning to fit into the new reality. Wholesale distribution still offers the greatest convenience to consumers in the form of a one-stop-shopping marketplace. Wholesale as a channel has expanded points of distribution as new online 3rd party distributors are added to the mix of physical department and specialty stores. ■ Physical Stores Moving Online, Enhancing Omnichannel Capabilities. Traditional indirect-to-consumer retailers have been working to streamline distribution infrastructure and enhance website platforms in order to accommodate the shift in spending. Retailers from Macy's to Wal-Mart are focused on eCommerce efforts to make products available and transactions more efficient. ■ Expansion Of Online-Only Wholesale Operators. With the emergence of internet start-ups, the wholesale channel has experienced a surge of online-only 3rd party distributors. This is offers more incremental points of distribution for existing and new brands. Figure 15: Purchasing Behavior Old Model I need a new bathing suit. Search for product in stores Purchase in store New Model I need a new bathing suit. OR Search for product Online Purchase Online Purchase in store Source: Credit Suisse Equity Research Softlines and Retail 14 17 March 2016 Investments In Digital We expect traditional brands and retailers to increasingly focus on building or acquiring this core digital competency. Figure 16: Examples Of Companies Investing In Digital Company Investments Nordstrom Acquisition: Hautelook and Trunk Club Investments in: BaubleBar, Bonobos, and Shoes of Prey Under Armour Acquisition: MapMyFitness, Endomondo, MyFitnessPal, Gritness Adidas Acquisition: Runtastic Asics Acquisition: FitnessKeeper Fossil Acquisition: Misfit - designer and manufacturer of wearable technology products Hudson's Bay Acquisition: Gilt Group QVC Acquisition: Zulily DSW Acquisition: Ebuys Amazon Acquisition: Zappos Source: Company data, Credit Suisse Equity Research Softlines and Retail 15 17 March 2016 Connected Platforms Mature brands that have already grown through wholesale, retail, and online channels are looking to a new platform to help them reinforce brand strength and drive incremental demand thru big data. Examples include Under Armour's investments in Connected Fitness and Nike's investments in Nike+ platforms and apps. Key Considerations For This Next Level Of Platforming: ■ Software vs Hardware: It can be challenging to determine how to build out connected platforms. Nike exited their hardware Fuelband product to focus on software applications such as Nike Running and Training Club platforms. Under Armour began with software acquisitions (MapMyFitness, Endomondo) and has recently branched out to launch hardware with HealthBox products. ■ Difficult To Implement: Connected platforms take digital to a new level of sophistication and expertise. ■ Expensive To Set Up And Maintain: Building out and acquiring proprietary connected platforms is an expensive endeavour. ■ Challenging To Monetize: While connected platforms provide personal interaction with consumers and provide companies with massive amounts of data on purchasing behavior and trends, ROIC can be difficult to measure. Softlines and Retail 16 17 March 2016 Online Brand Appendix Figure 17: Online-Only Brands Across Accessories, Lifestyle, Personal Care, Men's, And Women's Company ONLINE-ONLY BRANDS Website URL Description Accessories Online fashion jewelry retailer with the ability to quickly identify and merchandise trending products. Baublebar www.baublebar.com OneGround www.onegroundfootwear.com Premium online shoe brand which "combines style, creativity and innovation with unique European craftmanship". Proper Assembly www.properassembly.com Online-only backpack, tote and travel bag brand. Shoes Of Prey www.shoesofprey.com Australian online-only shoe brand which allows consumer to design personalized shoes; Nordstrom invested in the brand in 2015. The Arrivals www.thearrivals.com An outerwear and winter-accessories brand with no physical stores; founded by a pair of architects. Tortoise & Blonde Eyewear www.tortoiseandblonde.com Eyeglasses company for men and women which has recently partnered with Urban Outfitters to open shop-inshops. Warby Parker www.warbyparker.com Eyeglass and sunglass online brand founded in 2010; uses a buy-one-donate-one model. ADAY www.thisisaday.com Women's lifestyle brand that offers athleisure apparel which can transition from day to night. Endless Ammo www.endlessammo.com Iron & Resin www.ironandresin.com Outdoor Voices www.outdoorvoices.com Lifestyle brand that offers technical athleisure apparel for recreational purposes; 2 stores in NY and Austin. Rhone Apparel www.rhone.com Men's lifestyle brand that offers technical athletic apparel. Lifestyle Brands Softlines and Retail Men's lifestyle brand based in San Francisco focused on "utilitarian" apparel. Lifestyle brand based in California selling apparel, accessories, and outdoor equipment. 17 17 March 2016 Tracksmith www.tracksmith.com Waimea www.waimealifestyle.com Bonobos www.bonobos.com Buck Mason www.buckmason.com Lifestyle brand selling premium performance apparel focused on track and running. Lifestyle brand inspired by the surfing culture of Hawaii; selling apparel, accessories, and equipment. Men's Fashion Men's fashion brand launched in 2007; now runs ecommerce shops and partners with Nordstroms. Men's fashion brand for basic apparel, denim, and accessories. Personal Care & Beauty Beauty Counter www.beautycounter.com Ecommerce beauty site with personal care and makeup products that do not contain harmful chemicals. The Honest Company www.honest.com Offers natural, non-toxic beauty, personal care, and cleaning products; has started to move towards vendor partnerships. Bare Necessities www.barenecessities.com An underwear, swimwear, and loungewear online retailer originally established in 1998. Negative Underwear www.negativeunderwear.com Third Love www.thirdlove.com Women's Intimates Online-only underwear brand offering minimalist, affordable products. Women's intimates retailer with an online app used to collect consumer data and provide fit measurements. Women's Fashion Softlines and Retail "Sister-label" to Bonobos, the women's online-only fashion brand was launched in 2014; the brand now has a wholesale partnership with Shopbop. AYR www.ayr.com Cuyana www.cuyana.com Women's-only lifestyle brand with high quality "essential" fashion pieces; urges consumers to follow their "few, better" motto. Eloquii www.eloquii.com Women's online plus sized clothing and accessories retailer; the brand was spun off from The Limited in 2011. 18 17 March 2016 Women's fashion apparel brand founded in 2010 with a focus on pricing transparency. Everlane www.everlane.com Industry Standard www.industrystandardny.com Women's jeanswear brand with a focus on providing direct to consumer product made in America. Lavish Alice www.lavishalice.com Women's fashion brand based in the UK inspired by trends directly off the runway. Love Culture www.loveculture.com Online-only women's fashion apparel brand offering trenddriven product. Nasty Gal Inc. www.nastygal.com Women's fashion brand originally started as an eBay store in 2006; has expanded to 2 brick-and-mortar locations. Reformation www.thereformation.com Sole Society http://www.solesociety.com/ Tautmun www.tautmun.com Tobi.com www.tobi.com Fashion brand selling women's apparel with a focus on sustainable manufacturing. Women's Shoes, handbags, and Accessories Exclusive online women's fashion shop based out of California with a "streetwear meets minimalism" aesthetic. Women's fashion apparel brand emulating fast-fashion products. Source: Company data, Credit Suisse research Softlines and Retail 19 17 March 2016 Figure 18: Subscription Model Brands Across Accessories, Children, Personal Care, Men's, And Women's Company SUBSCRIPTION MODELS Website URL Description Accessories Women's online fashion jewelery subscription and rental service. RocksBox www.rocksbox.com ShoeDazzle.com www.shoedazzle.com Online fashion subscription service based in California with a selection of women's shoes, handbags, and jewelry. Sneakerbox www.sneakerboxco.com Subscription service for sneaker accessories and products. Sock Panda www.sockpanda.com One-for-one men's and women's monthly sock subscription. Children's Apparel www.sproutingthreads.com Subscription based children's clothing service with brands from over 50 top children's clothing lines and the ability to exchange clothes as a child grows. Bombfell www.bombfell.com Monthly personal stylist subscription box for men's apparel and accessories. Five Four Club www.fivefourclub.com Men's curated apparel monthly subscription service. Hall & Madden www.hallmadden.com Men's dress shirt subscription service. The Gentleman's Box www.gentlemansbox.com Trunk Club www.trunkclub.com Monthly personal stylist subscription box for men's apparel and accessories. Birchbox www.birchbox.com Online monthly subscription service for women's beauty products launched in 2010; Birchbox Man launched in 2012. Curator & Mule www.curatorandmule.com Men's accessories seasonal subscription service. Dollar Shave Club www.dollarshaveclub.com Subscription service for men and women which delivers razors and personal care products direct to consumers. Harry's www.harrys.com Sprouting Threads Men's Apparel Premier monthly subscription box for men's apparel and accessories founded in 2014. Personal Care & Beauty Softlines and Retail Monthly subscription service for men which delivers razors and personal care products direct to consumers. 20 17 March 2016 Ipsy www.ipsy.com eCommerce beauty subscription founded by you-tube celebrity Michelle Phan. Scentbird www.scentbird.com Monthly subscription box of designer perfume samples. Elizabeth & Clarke www.elizabethandclarke.com Subscription service for women's basic tshirts and dress shirts. Fabletics www.fabletics.com Online subscription retailer that sells women's sportswear and accessories. Gwynnie Bee www.closet.gwynniebee.com Women's plus-size monthly apparel subscription service. Le Tote www.letote.com Called the "Netflix-for-clothes," consumers can exchange fashion apparel on a monthly basis or choose to buy. Rent The Runway www.renttherunway.com Fashion apparel brand where consumers can rent designer dresses at a discounted price or subscribe for unlimited dresses a month; now opening showrooms in major cities. Stitch Fix www.stitchfix.com Personal stylist online subscription service for women's apparel and accessories. Tog & Porter www.togandporter.com Personal stylist online subscription service for women's apparel and accessories. Wantable www.wantable.com Online women's subscription for a personal stylist service. AdoreMe www.adoreme.com Subscription women's intimates business with the option to pay-as-you-go or receive product monthly. MeUndies www.meundies.com Online underwear subscription service; partnered with Postmates for "same day, on-demand" products. True & Co. www.trueandco.com Online women's intimates subscription service which uses a proprietary online quiz to determine sizing. Women's Apparel Women's Intimates Source: Company data, Credit Suisse research Softlines and Retail 21 17 March 2016 Figure 19: Online Marketplaces Across Flash Sale Sites, Lifestyle, Luxury, Mass Market, And Mid-Tier Company ONLINE BRAND MARKETPLACE Website URL Description Flash Sale Sites A private flash sale site for men and women across multiple discounted designer brands. Beyond The Rack www.beyondtherack.com Gilt Groupe www.gilt.com HauteLook www.hautelook.com Nordstrom's flash sale marketplace across multiple brands. MyHabit www.myhabit.com Amazon's flash sale marketplace with product offerings across designer handbags, designer footwear, and mid-tear apparel brands. Rue La La www.ruelala.com Members-only flash sale site for women's and men's midtier apparel brands and home goods. Members-only flash sale site for women's and men's luxury apparel brands; acquired by the Hudson's Bay Company in 2016 to be integrated into Saks 5th stores. Lifestyle Marketplaces Online specialty marketplace that sells apparel and equipment for outdoor recreation. Backcountry.com www.backcountry.com Bona Drag www.bonadrag.com Founded in 2006, this online boutique specializes in vintage apparel and jewelry brands. Cold Lilies www.coldlilies.com Online marketplace for fine designer European jewelry brands. Fanatics www.fanatics.com Marketplace for officiallylicensed sports merchandise and offers a collection of gear for multiple professional and college teams. Karmaloop www.karmaloop.com Online marketplace for streetwear; includes The Kazbah (new streetwear designer marketplace) and PLNDR (members-only flash sale site). Koshka www.shopkoshka.com A boutique brand house for up-and-coming designers, this Berlin-based market-place allows new designers to showcase their work. Moosejaw www.moosejaw.com Online specialty marketplace that sells apparel and equipment for outdoor recreation; has moved into opening brick and mortar locations. Softlines and Retail 22 17 March 2016 The Clymb www.theclymb.com Online lifestyle brand aggregator for outdoor equipment and apparel. The Dreslyn www.thedreslyn.com Lifestyle marketplace for women's apparel and accessories across mid-tier brands. SurfStitch www.surfstitch.com World's largest online actions sports and youth apparel lifestyle brand retailer from Australia. Farfetch www.farfetch.com Over 400 fashion boutiques with 1000+ luxury brand offerings all under one eCommerce website. Moda Operandi www.modaoperandi.com Online brand marketplace which offers pre-orders for trunk shows by designer brands. Net-A-Porter www.net-a-porter.com Premier luxury fashion brand online marketplace founded in 2000; part of the Yoox Net-A-Porter Group as of October 2015. Oki-ni www.oki-ni.com Global online destination for a curated selection of men's luxury menswear brands. Ssense www.ssense.com Montreal-based online marketplace with luxury brands across men's and women's collections. The Outnet.com www.theoutnet.com Then And Now www.thenandnowshop.com YOOX www.yoox.com Amazon www.amazon.com Luxury Brand Aggregators Discount women's designer online marketplace, created by the Net-A-Porter group. A luxury online retailer offering current designer collection and discounted past collections. Online lifestyle store for fashion apparel, design, and art founded in 2000; part of the Yoox Net-A-Porter Group as of October 2015. Mass Market Softlines and Retail Mass-market brand aggregator for apparel, home goods, electronics, and food; owns MyHabit, ShopBop, and Zappos. 23 17 March 2016 Overstock.com www.overstock.com Online marketplace which specializes in heavily discounted inventory across apparel, hard goods, and electronics. Rakuten www.global.rakuten.com Japanese online marketplace with offerings across fashion, beauty, and outdoor equipment. Wanelo www.wanelo.com Online marketplace launched in 2012 with products across apparel, furniture, and accessories. Wish.com www.wish.com Mid-tier brand marketplace which is able to provide extremely low prices due to wholesale relationships with overseas vendors. ASOS www.asos.com Online brand aggregator for mid-tier fashion apparel brands. Jack Threads www.jackthreads.com Originally a flash sale site, JackThreads is now a men's brands destination with apparel, footwear, and accessories. Revolve Clothing www.revolveclothing.com Online marketplace with a selection of mid-tier brands for women's and men's apparel. ShopBop www.shopbop.com Online retailer marketplace, launched in 2000 as a denimecommerce site; the site was acquired by Amazon in 2006. Zappos www.zappos.com Mid-Tier Brand Aggregators Shoe retailer founded in 1999 with a selection across brands, styles, colors, sizes, and widths; acquired by Amazon in 2009. Source: Company data, Credit Suisse research Softlines and Retail 24 17 March 2016 Figure 20: Resale Brands Across Luxury And Mid-Tier Company Luxury Brands Resale ONLINE RESALE Website URL Description Bag, Borrow, or Steal www.bagborroworsteal.com Platform for luxury apparel and accessories rental, sale of pre-owned goods, or purchase. Portero www.portero.com Marketplace for pre-owned luxury goods founded in 2004 in New York. Poshmark www.poshmark.com Marketplace for pre-owned luxury and mid-tier apparel and accessories. Vaunte www.vaunte.com Online marketplace for pre-owned luxury apparel and accessories, often curated by industry experts. Vestiaire Collective www.vestiairecollective.com Online community for pre-owned luxury apparel and accessories founded in Paris in 2009. Mid-Tier Brands Resale Online resale site for apparel, electronics, furnishings, and sporting goods. eBay www.ebay.com The RealReal www.therealreal.com thredUP www.thredup.com Online consignment site for men's and women's apparel. Tradesy www.tradesy.com Marketplace for pre-owned luxury and mid-tier apparel and accessories. Marketplace for pre-owned luxury and mid-tier apparel and accessories. Source: Company data, Credit Suisse research Softlines and Retail 25 17 March 2016 Companies Mentioned (Price as of 16-Mar-2016) ASOS Plc (ASOS.L, 3089.0p) Abercrombie & Fitch Co. (ANF.N, $31.63) Adidas AG (ADSGn.F, €101.15) Amazon com Inc. (AMZN.OQ, $575.79) Asics (7936.T, ¥2,046) Coach Inc (COH.N, $38.93) Columbia (COLM.OQ, $59.47) DSW Inc (DSW.N, $26.54) Deckers Brands (DECK.N, $55.99) Facebook Inc. (FB.OQ, $111.15) Finish Line Inc (FINL.OQ, $17.77) Five Below, Inc. (FIVE.OQ, $39.71) Foot Locker, Inc. (FL.N, $63.57) Fossil Group (FOSL.OQ, $44.14) Gildan Activewear Incorporated (GIL.TO, C$38.6) Hanesbrands Inc. (HBI.N, $28.98) Hudson's Bay Company (HBC.TO, C$17.07) L Brands, Inc. (LB.N, $87.07, NEUTRAL, TP $90.0) Macy's Inc. (M.N, $43.01) Michael Kors (KORS.N, $56.34) Net-A-Porter (YNAP.MI, €25.48) Nike Inc. (NKE.N, $62.1) Nordstrom (JWN.N, $56.81) Overstock com (OSTK.OQ, $14.54) Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH.N, $87.15) Ralph Lauren (RL.N, $95.47) Saks Incorporated (SKS.N^K13, $15.99) Saks Incorporated (SKS.N^K13, $15.99) Surfstitch Group Limited (SRF.AX, A$1.38) The Gap, Inc. (GPS.N, $29.07) Tiffany & Co (TIF.N, $69.72) Tumi Holdings (TUMI.N, $26.88) Twitter (TWTR.N, $16.352) Under Armour, Inc. (UA.N, $80.54) Urban Outfitters (URBN.OQ, $31.66) VF Corporation (VFC.N, $65.3) Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. (WMT.N, $67.97) Wolverine World (WWW.N, $18.1) Zalando (ZALG.DE, €28.24) Zumiez (ZUMZ.OQ, $19.13) eBay Inc. (EBAY.OQ, $23.61) lululemon athletica Inc. (LULU.OQ, $61.96) Disclosure Appendix Important Global Disclosures Christian Buss, Michael Exstein and David Hartley, CFA each certify, with respect to the companies or securities that the individual analyzes, that (1) the views expressed in this report accurately reflect his or her personal views about all of the subject companies and securities and (2) no part of his or her compensation was, is or will be directly or indirectly related to the specific recommendations or views expressed in this report. Softlines and Retail 26 17 March 2016 3-Year Price and Rating History for L Brands, Inc. (LB.N) LB.N Date 09-Apr-13 23-May-13 08-Aug-13 26-Aug-13 11-Oct-13 09-Jan-14 12-Feb-14 07-Aug-14 21-Aug-14 10-Sep-14 09-Oct-14 06-Nov-14 20-Nov-14 04-Dec-14 05-Feb-15 26-Feb-15 21-May-15 10-Nov-15 19-Nov-15 04-Feb-16 25-Feb-16 Closing Price (US$) 44.45 48.00 56.50 54.83 52.81 54.16 51.08 57.89 60.85 61.85 64.38 72.91 76.48 78.95 87.09 89.77 86.34 92.87 89.92 86.44 85.67 Target Price (US$) 50.64 52.51 59.08 60.02 60.02 53.45 54.43 56.34 62.07 69.71 70.67 74.49 77.35 78.31 82.96 87.84 91.74 97.60 99.55 102.48 103.00 Rating O N O O U T PERFO RM N EU T RA L * Asterisk signifies initiation or assumption of coverage. The analyst(s) responsible for preparing this research report received Compensation that is based upon various factors including Credit Suisse's total revenues, a portion of which are generated by Credit Suisse's investment banking activities As of December 10, 2012 Analysts’ stock rating are defined as follows: Outperform (O) : The stock’s total return is expected to outperform the relevant benchmark* over the next 12 months. Neutral (N) : The stock’s total return is expected to be in line with the relevant benchmark* over the next 12 months. Underperform (U) : The stock’s total return is expected to underperform the relevant benchmark* over the next 12 months. *Relevant benchmark by region: As of 10th December 2012, Japanese ratings are based on a stock’s total return relative to the analyst's coverage universe which consists of all companies covered by the analyst within the relevant sector, with Outperforms representing the most attractive, Neutrals the less attractive, and Underperforms the least attractive investment opportunities. As of 2nd October 2012, U.S. and Canadian as well as European ra tings are based on a stock’s total return relative to the analyst's coverage universe which consists of all companies covered by the analyst within the relevant sector, with Outperforms representing the most attractive, Neutrals the less attractive, and Underperforms the least attractive investment opportunities. For Latin American and non-Japan Asia stocks, ratings are based on a stock’s total return relative to the average total return of the relevant country or regional benchmark; prior to 2nd October 2012 U.S. and Canadian ratings were based on (1) a stock’s absolute total return potential to its current share price and (2) the relative attractivene ss of a stock’s total return potential within an analyst’s coverage universe. For Australian and New Zealand stocks, the expected total return (ETR) calculation includes 12-month rolling dividend yield. An Outperform rating is assigned where an ETR is greater than or equal to 7.5%; Underperform where an ETR less than or equal to 5%. A Neutral may be assigned where the ETR is between -5% and 15%. The overlapping rating range allows analysts to assign a rating that puts ETR in the context of associated risks. Prior to 18 May 2015, ETR ranges for Outperform and Underperform ratings did not overlap with Neutral thresholds between 15% and 7 .5%, which was in operation from 7 July 2011. Restricted (R) : In certain circumstances, Credit Suisse policy and/or applicable law and regulations preclude certain types of communications, including an investment recommendation, during the course of Credit Suisse's engagement in an investment banking transaction and in certain other circumstances. Volatility Indicator [V] : A stock is defined as volatile if the stock price has moved up or down by 20% or more in a month in at least 8 of the past 24 months or the analyst expects significant volatility going forward. Analysts’ sector weightings are distinct from analysts’ stock ratings and are based on the analyst’s expectations for the fundamentals and/or valuation of the sector* relative to the group’s historic fundamentals and/or valuation: Overweight : The analyst’s expectation for the sector’s fundamentals and/or valuation is favorable over the next 12 months. Market Weight : The analyst’s expectation for the sector’s fundamentals and/or valuation is neutral over the next 12 months. Underweight : The analyst’s expectation for the sector’s fundamentals and/or valuation is cautious over the next 12 months. *An analyst’s coverage sector consists of all companies covered by the analyst within the relevant sector. An analyst may cover multiple sectors. Softlines and Retail 27 17 March 2016 Credit Suisse's distribution of stock ratings (and banking clients) is: Global Ratings Distribution Rating Versus universe (%) Of which banking clients (%) Outperform/Buy* 58% (38% banking clients) Neutral/Hold* 30% (27% banking clients) Underperform/Sell* 11% (45% banking clients) Restricted 1% *For purposes of the NYSE and NASD ratings distribution disclosure requirements, our stock ratings of Outperform, Neutral, an d Underperform most closely correspond to Buy, Hold, and Sell, respectively; however, the meanings are not the same, as our stock ratings are determined on a relative basis. (Please refer to definitions above.) An investor's decision to buy or sell a security should be based on investment objectives, current holdings, and other individual factors. Credit Suisse’s policy is to update research reports as it deems appropriate, based on developments with the subject company, the sector or the market that may have a material impact on the research views or opinions stated herein. Credit Suisse's policy is only to publish investment research that is impartial, independent, clear, fair and not misleading. For more detail please refer to Credit Suisse's Policies for Managing Conflicts of Interest in connection with Investment Research: http://www.csfb.com/research-andanalytics/disclaimer/managing_conflicts_disclaimer.html Credit Suisse does not provide any tax advice. Any statement herein regarding any US federal tax is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, by any taxpayer for the purposes of avoiding any penalties. Target Price and Rating Valuation Methodology and Risks: (12 months) for L Brands, Inc. (LB.N) Method: Our 12-month price target of $90 is based on an equal weighted average of 1) peer group multiples ($91), 2) A 5-year DCF ($93), and 3) A long-term growth model ($85). We believe the stock will trade in line with its peer group, and accordingly, we have a Neutral rating. Risk: Risks to our $90 price target and Neutral rating for LB include macroeconomic risk, rising input costs, slower-than-expected expansion of beauty, mall traffic declines, and licensee and franchise risk. Please refer to the firm's disclosure website at https://rave.credit-suisse.com/disclosures for the definitions of abbreviations typically used in the target price method and risk sections. See the Companies Mentioned section for full company names The subject company (COH.N, FIVE.OQ, TIF.N, TUMI.N, URBN.OQ, VFC.N, M.N, WMT.N, ADSGn.F, EBAY.OQ, FB.OQ) currently is, or was during the 12-month period preceding the date of distribution of this report, a client of Credit Suisse. Credit Suisse provided investment banking services to the subject company (FIVE.OQ, TUMI.N, VFC.N, M.N, EBAY.OQ, FB.OQ) within the past 12 months. Credit Suisse has managed or co-managed a public offering of securities for the subject company (M.N, EBAY.OQ) within the past 12 months. Credit Suisse has received investment banking related compensation from the subject company (FIVE.OQ, TUMI.N, VFC.N, M.N, EBAY.OQ, FB.OQ) within the past 12 months Credit Suisse expects to receive or intends to seek investment banking related compensation from the subject company (ANF.N, COH.N, COLM.OQ, DECK.N, FIVE.OQ, GIL.TO, GPS.N, LULU.OQ, TIF.N, TUMI.N, UA.N, URBN.OQ, VFC.N, WWW.N, AMZN.OQ, JWN.N, M.N, ADSGn.F, 7936.T, DSW.N, FINL.OQ, EBAY.OQ, FB.OQ, SKS.N^K13) within the next 3 months. 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This report does not constitute investment advice by Credit Suisse to the clients of the distributing financial institution, and neither Credit Suisse AG, its affiliates, and their respective officers, directors and employees accept any liability whatsoever for any direct or consequential loss arising from their use of this report or its content. Principal is not guaranteed. Commission is the commission rate or the amount agreed with a customer when setting up an account or at any time after that. Copyright © 2016 CREDIT SUISSE AG and/or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Investment principal on bonds can be eroded depending on sale price or market price. In addition, there are bonds on which investment principal can be eroded due to changes in redemption amounts. Care is required when investing in such instruments. When you purchase non-listed Japanese fixed income securities (Japanese government bonds, Japanese municipal bonds, Japanese government guaranteed bonds, Japanese corporate bonds) from CS as a seller, you will be requested to pay the purchase price only. Softlines and Retail 30
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