© 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com GROWING YOUR OWN POTATOES with Tommy B Growing your own food is one of the most rewarding not to mention HEALTHY gardening activities you can do. By getting a little creative you can grow a lot of the food you buy weekly at the supermarket, even if you don't have a garden! Yes, food growing has become very easy these days, with all sorts of containers and bags designed specifically to cater for people who want to grow food, but may not have the space for a dedicated veggie garden. Potatoes are one of the easiest versatile vegetables to grow. and most They can be grown indoors in a glasshouse or Polytunnel as early crops and of course they can also be grown very easily in Potato Grow Bags. Of course if you have the space for a full veggie patch it is great and the variety of food you can grow is immense. Glasshouses and Polytunnels will also assist you to grow food easily and they will also enable you to get a head start with your food growing and you can have a fast crop of Potatoes in about 12 weeks! With all the uncertainty about what exactly goes into our food it’s probably more important then ever to start growing your own, then you know exactly what you are eating. The taste of fresh homegrown Potatoes is something you just can’t beat! In this guide we are going to look at: • some of the main varieties you can grow • how to sprout your new Potaotes properly • how to grow Potatoes in a Grow bag • common pests & dissease you may encounter © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com Potatoes come in a variety of categories, usually defined by 'seasonality'. The main categories of are: First Early, Second Early and Main Crop. First Early crop in June – the most popular early varieties are: Sharpes Express, Duke of York, Home Guard, Red Duke of York Second Early crop in July – the most popular varieties are: Orla & British Queens Main Crop in September – the most popular main crop varieties are: Kerrs Pink, Golden Wonders, Cara, King Edward, Records, Rooster, Rocket as well as Salad Potatoes such as Pink Fir Apple, Charlotte, International Kidney and the blight free Sarpo Mira. The variety Home Guard would be one of the best varieties to grow inside. Home Guard, Sharpes Express, Duke of York, Rocket, can be planted outdoors from March onwards and you can expect a crop after 12 about weeks. KEY POINT The first step to protect your potatoes from disease, is to buy seed potatoes that are certified as being 'virus free'. First early potatoes are easy to grow and have the advantage of cropping early, so they miss the weather that causes blight conditions, meaning you should be able to avoid spraying them completely for blight. One of the most popular second early crops is British Queens. It is important these are certified as these often carry ¨Blackleg Disease¨, within them and this spreads in wet weather and large sections of crops can be lost. Kerrs Pink are still the most popular main crop potato, even though it does require a diligent spraying program to keep them blight free. Record, Golden Wonders, Roosters, King Edward, Cara and Orla would be the other popular main crop varieties. These take about 20 – 22 weeks for the crop to develop and will produce the heaviest crop of all the potato types. © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com WHAT TO DO AFTER BUYING SEED POTATOES: After buying your seed potatoes, you will need to keep them in a cool place. You will need to 'sprout' them prior to planting, this process is commonly referred to as 'chitting'. This can commence in late January /early February. Chitting is done to basically encourage the seed potatoes to sprout before planting and it is used to speed up the potato growing process. Egg cartons are ideal for this process as you can place the seed potatoes in individual cells. You do not need any compost or soil for this process; you will simply face the ‘rose end’ up towards the light. The 'rose' end is the end of the potato with the most ‘eyes’, it is usually more round or blunt than the other end. Place your cartons in a cool but frost-free location with plenty of light. After about 4 weeks your potatoes should be nicely sprouted. Remove any sprouts from the bottom or sides and leave four healthy sprouts. GROWING POTATOES IN THE GROUND If you are going to plant your potatoes externally, in your veggie patch, ground preparation is essential to success. Potatoes love a Nitrogen Rich Organic Soil, so dig in well rotted Farm Yard Manure or Organic Compost before you plant. Remember you can get Farm Yard Manure in bags from your local garden centre. You can also add either granular Chicken Pellets (organic), Growmore Fertilizer or a Seaweed based fertilizer to the ground before you plant. When sowing your potatoes in the gound, the spacing will be: 10¨ apart , 4¨deep with 24¨ between rows. © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com THE PROCESS OF EARTHING UP YOUR POTATOES Regardless of where you grow your potatoes, the process called ‘earthing up’ needs to be applied as the potatoes grow. When growing externally, after the stalks have grown up to about 15 cm, then you will cover the ridge with 10-15 cm of earth. This will stop the potatoes being exposed to light and prevent them from going green. As your potatoes grow you will need to be diligent with watering and keep in mind in the case of very dry Summer weather, Potatoes may benefit from flooding the trenches so as to increase the crop. You will need to keep a watchful eye for pest and disease control,paying attention to blight warnings will be of great assistance, but we will look at that in a later section. OTHER WAYS TO GROW POTATOES As I mentioned earlier, Potatoes can also be grown in Grow Bags. These are designed specifically to prevent light from getting at the tubers as they grow. However, you can also get resourceful and use any barrels and even large tyres you may have lying around. This method would be more suitable for first early potatoes. Make sure if you are using old tyres, that you wash them first. You will also need to keep in mind if using this method that you will need to have sufficient tyres to accommodate the 'earthing up' process. GROWING POTATOES IN A GROW BAGS Once you have completed the 'chitting' process we mentioned earlier, you can then go ahead and plant your Potatoes in a Grow Bag. What you will need to grow Potatoes in a bag: • Potato grow bag • Good rich compost - such as Jack’s Magic © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com • • • Certified Seed Potatoes of your choice Watering Can Potato Fertiliser 6 STEPS TO GROW YOUR OWN POTATOES IN A GROW BAG: • Fill up your potato bag with 12” of Jack's Magic seaweed based compost. • Mix 2 handfuls of Organic Potato Fertiliser through the compost. • Place 4 or maximum 5 sprouted potatoes on top of the compost. You may be tempted to put in more than this , but they will not have sufficient space to grow. • Cover with 4” of compost + 1 handful of fertiliser. • Add 5 litres of water. • Place your Potato bag in a bright, frost-free area preferably a few inches off the ground, so as to avoid pests. You can also place the Grow bag in a tunnel, glasshouse or conservatory. • When the Potato shoots are 4” above the compost, you will need to 'earth up', by adding more Jack's Magic compost and a handful of fertilizer, leaving 1” of the shoots visible. • When the stems have grown another 4”, repeat the process again by adding more Jacks Magic compost and a handful of fertilizer, leaving 1” of the shoots visible. • Keep repeating this ‘earthing up’ process, as the stems grow, until your bag is full to within an inch of the top of the bag. • Continue to water regularly. • As the stalks grow, you can use a few 3 - 4ft bamboo canes in the corners of the bag, with some soft rubber around them, for support and prevent the stalks from breaking. © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com In 12 -14 weeks your potatoes will be ready to eat! You can carefully check first, by placing your hand down either side of the bag to feel the size. With the Potato being such a versatile ingredient in the kitchen, you will have so many ways to enjoy your fresh, healthy produce! Frequently Asked Questions: Q. Do I have to protect my Potatoes against blight? If you grow an early variety, there is little or no threat of blight with those varieties, so no protection is needed if you grow those varieties. If growing later crops, yes you will have to be vigilent and take appropriate action. Q. Will I have to protect them against slugs? Generally if you are using Grow Bags, slugs are not a big issue, but yes you need to be vigilant and check in the evening time to see if there are any slugs present. You can simply do a regular check and if you see them throw them away from the area or use organic slug pellets. (More on pest control later). Q. I have tried to grow Potatoes in a bag before but I ended up with small potatoes that hadn’t developed, what caused this? This could be down to a number of influencing factors: • Didn’t sprouted the potatoes • Didn’t use certified potatoes • The stalks got hit by frost in the early stages of growth and never recovered • Poor compost • Didn’t use a good fertilizer • Insufficient watering – so the potatoes dried out One of the main reasons a person can be unsuccessful with growing Potatoes in a bag is:; because they let the compost dry out or they over water the potatoes. Potatoes should be watered regularly, but always feel the compost, to ensure it’s nicely moist not saturated. © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com Remember young Potato stalks are vulnerable to frost, so it a good idea to cover them with horticultural fleece at night for additional protection in early development. Q. Which is the best Potato variety for me to grow? This will be largely dependent on personal taste, however, if you are just starting off, keep it simple. As a guide, if you like waxy potatoes grow Home guard. If you like flowery potatoes grow British Queens. Common Problems When Growing Potatoes: WIREWORM: Wireworms are actually the larvae of the click beetle. These grubs are a little over 2 cms in length, yellow/ orange in colour and have a shiny hard body. They love to attack the newly planted seed potatoes by making a deep tunnel in them. Then they bore their way into the new tubers as they are produced and believe it or not can render crops inedible. Organic Control of Wireworm: • Avoid planting potatoes in areas that were recently growing grass. It is reported that wireworm attack is likely to be worst in the second and third year after grass, so ideally five years without grass is your best option for wireworm free soil. • Dig the soil well before planting, this should bring the wireworms to the surface so you can get rid of them or let the birds help! • You can also use old potatoes to encourage the wireworm to show. Do this about 3 weeks before planting your seed potatoes. Dig some holes about 4” deep, cut old potato in half and put a stick in them, © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com put these in the holes and cover. A few days before planting, dig out these ‘potato traps’ and if the soil has wireworm they should be in these potatoes, so you can dispose of them immediately. • Wireworm damage is said to be at its peak from the middle of August onwards, so early harvesting or using early varieties of potatoes will help. Spraying the ground beforehand is an option using “Mocap” , but it can be costly and success rate can be as little as 40%. BIOLOGICAL CONTROL: There is an increasing consumer demand to reduce the use of chemical pesticides in our fruit and vegetable production. The overuse and misuse of chemical pesticides are affecting both our environment and our health and is also killing off our most beneficial garden insects. So we are faced with the issue of how to control harmful pests without using chemical pesticides, that also kill off the beneficial ones! Our alternative is to use biological control, specifically beneficial 'Nematodes' found in healthy soil. In this case I'm specifically talking about ‘SUPERNEMOS’, which are specially formulated to aggressively pursue several or different groups of insect pests. These beneficial nematodes are rapidly becoming the method of choice in the horticultural and agricultural sectors. SuperNemos will attack the target insect pest species and the nematodes enter the host through openings or by penetration of the body wall. Once inside they kill the host pest within 48 hours, all in just one application. SuperNemos are capable of controlling several target pest species: • Wireworm • Vine Weevil • Strawberry Root weevil • Carrot Weevil • Chafer Grubs • Caterpillars © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com • • • • Cutworms Leatherjackets Cabbage Worm Fungus Gnats Larvae Also it is also effective against Beetle Larvae which feeds on Cucumber, Tomatoes and Potatoes plants and more! SuperNemos is an environmentally friendly product that is harmless to wildlife, earthworms, bees, bumblebee, pets and children. SuperNemos only attack specific target inspect pests and there is no need for masks or specialized safety equipment. As SUPERNEMOS are living organisms, the product needs to be preordered and it is important to handle them correctly. Timing is a crucial factor when using this product; soil temperatures need to be over 12 degree celsius and the Supernemo need to be applied by mid May at the very latest. If you would like to order Supernemos , you can let us know by clicking on this link and it will automatically open your email program: ORDER SUPERNEMOS NOW SLUGS: Slugs can also eat tubers by boring into the Potato and can cause most damage when the weather is wet / damp. You can treat the ground with another variety of Nematode called: 'Nemaslug'. Correct handling is essential again with this nematode. You can ask for correct advice from your local garden centre. Remember, slugs do not tend to do much damage to Golden Wonder Potatoes, so it is worth bearing that in mind when choosing your varieties. © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com POTATO BLIGHT: A fungus called ‘Phytophthora infestans’ causes blight; it spreads through the air and develops when the weather is warm and humid. Blight appears as brown patches on the leaves, mainly at the tips, and dark patches on the tubers. If you were to cut open a Potato with blight, there would be brownish rot spreading down from the skin, and it would eventually get extremely soggy with a really foul odor. With the first and second early varieties, blight will not be a major issue but you will need to listen for blight warnings on the radio or TV and then treat the crop with either: • Dithane or • Organic Bordeaux mix With the main crop this will be particularly important or use disease resistant varieties like ‘Orla’ and ‘Cara’. TOP 10 MISTAKES WHEN GROWING YOUR OWN FOOD 1. Neglecting to layout & prepare the food growing area properly and in time 2. Sowing too many seeds, all at the same time & forgetting to consider the 'growing on' space required 3. Letting seedlings grow too 'leggy' before transplanting 4. Not using quality compost when germinating seeds 5. Choosing 'unfamilar' foods, or varieties. For optimum success, start by growing foods you know you love to eat 6. Now knowing what to sow and when - devise a 12 month food growing plan to suit your taste buds! © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com 7. Planting crops in unsuitable locations (ie) too sunny, too shady, too exposed, soil ph 8. Not practicing crop rotation - so allowing the build up of pests and diseases in the ground 9. Guessing rater than measuring correct quantities of fertilizers 10. Forgetting to be vigilant for pests and disease & not knowing what to do to treat them in time Ok, so I said 10, but I want to add one more! One of the biggest issues I see when people start growing food is not having a good watering system in place. A good watering system and reliable watering schedule is essential for successful food growing, so please take this into consideration when planning your food growing area. I hope you have enjoyed this guide to Growing Your Own Potatoes. Make sure you join our VIP Gardening Circle for more free reports and Gardening Guides like this one! You can join for free by clicking on the image below and it will take you to our website to enter your name and email details. Talk to you soon, Tommy B © 2013 Tommy Brosnan www.KillarneyGardenCentre.com
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