Press Release Hong Kong
For Immediate Release
Hong Kong | Carmen Ting | +852 2822 8140 | [email protected]
New York | Darrell Rocha | [email protected] | London | Rosie.O’Reilly | [email protected]
Switzerland | Catherine Allen | [email protected]
Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale
To take place on 7 October
HIGHLIGHTING TWO EXTRAORDINARY JEWELS
OF EUROPEAN ARISTOCRATIC PROVENANCE
&
Iconic Cartier Designs Dating from the 1920s to the Present
Hong Kong Public Exhibition 2 – 6 October ｜Auction: 7 October
Hong Kong, September 2015
Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale 2015 will take place
on 7 October at Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The upcoming sale will highlight two exceptional jewels of
illustrious European aristocratic provenance. These include the Cowdray Pearls (pictured above right, separate press
release available) and the Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Diamond Necklace incorporating 28 diamonds from the 1887
landmark auction of the French Crown Jewels, accompanied by thorough documentation of its passage through various
notable owners over more than a century. These are complemented by a fine selection of superb natural coloured
gemstones, diamonds, pearls, jadeite and jewels from the most coveted brands worldwide, including iconic designs from
Cartier from the 1920s to the present, among them an exquisite ‘Panther’ ring featuring a 10.62-carat natural Burmese ruby
(pictured above left). Connoisseurs will also be delighted to find a rare and impressive 27.68-carat Kashmir sapphire
among the highlights. Approximately 270 lots estimated in excess of HK$600 million / US$77million* will be offered.
QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International Jewellery, Asia said,
“This Autumn Sotheby’s is honoured to present extraordinary jewels of European aristocratic provenance that are
rarely seen at auction in Asia. Formerly in the collection of distinguished connoisseur Viscountess Cowdray, her
namesake natural grey pearl necklace is one of the finest and rarest of its kind ever known. The Dowager Viscountess
Harcourt Diamond Necklace featuring diamonds from the French Crown Jewels auction is a remarkable piece whose
story is told through meticulous documentation of its journey from Europe to Asia through more than a
century. Collectors around the world will also be delighted by a fine selection of iconic designs from world renowned
brands as well as Burmese rubies and Kashmir sapphires that are highly coveted in the recent years.”
HIGHLIGHTS:
HISTORIC JEWELS OF ARISTOCRATIC PROVENANCE
The Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Diamond Necklace, Circa 1900,
diamond together weighing approximately 65.00 carats (Est. HK$10 – 15
million / US$1.3 – 1.9 million; lot 1737), features 28 diamonds from the
French Crown Jewels auction in 1887. The extraordinary passage of these
diamonds through various owners from 19th-Century Europe through the
American society to Sotheby’s Hong Kong saleroom is meticulously
documented, rendering it a remarkable piece of historic jewel.
After the Third Republic of France was formed, the French Ministry of
Finance decided to sell the once exclusive property of French Kings and
Queens, in a public auction in 1887. Most of the properties went to jewellers from Europe, Russia, countries of
Northern Africa and the United States as well as royalty and American aristocrats who flocked to the auction in Paris.
Tiffany, the famed American jeweller of that time was rumoured to have purchased about a third of the collection,
including 28 old mine-cut diamonds, from the diamond chains of the Great Comb à Pampilles. These diamonds were
sold a week later to Junius S Morgan, patriarch of the famous banking family in England. They were later passed on
to Morgan’s young granddaughter, Mary Ethel Burns in 1888, to be held in trust for her by her father Walter H. Burns.
Mary Burns, who became Viscountess Harcourt upon her 1899 marriage to Lewis, the first Viscount Harcourt, had the
diamond chains remounted into the present necklace around 1900.
Diamonds from this famed ‘1887 French Crown Jewels Auction’ rarely come up at auction. Over the past 25 years,
only several pieces had surfaced at auction. In addition, there was the famous Thurn and Taxis Pearl and Diamond
Tiara, sold by Sotheby’s in 1992 to the Louvre Museum, and the Magnificent Empress Eugénie Brooch also sold to
the Louvre Museum, by private treaty.
Another outstanding jewel that has already captured the imagination of the world is the
Cowdray Pearls, one of the finest and rarest grey pearl necklaces known (Est. HK$35
– 55 million / US4.5 – 7 million; lot 1870). Formerly in the collection of Viscountess
Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distinguished connoisseur and collector, this
magnificent necklace strung and mounted by Cartier comprises 42 extremely rare and
superb natural grey saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre, shape and size, measuring
approximately 12.90 to 6.65 mm in diameter, and is accompanied by a pair of natural grey
pearl earrings, mounts by Cartier London.
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ICONIC DESIGNS BY RENOWNED BRANDS
The upcoming sale will present iconic designs from Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier spanning various periods from
the 1920s to the present. Since its debut in 1914, the Cartier Panther has been brought to life and transformed from an
ornament into a timeless icon of the house by Jeanne Toussaint, director of haute joaillerie at Cartier from 1933 to
1970. The majestic feline has throughout the years accrued an enviable list of patrons from royalties and celebrities to
noted jewellery lovers. An articulated Panther bracelet formerly owned by the Duchess of
Windsor achieved £4,521,250 at Sotheby’s London in 2010, setting a record for a Cartier
jewel at the time. Appearing at the upcoming sale is a unique 10.62 Carat Burmese Ruby,
Onyx and Diamond ‘Panthère’ Ring, Monture Cartier (Est. HK$18 – 25 million /
US$2.3 – 3.2 million, lot 1742) which stages this playful menagerie with an exceedingly rare
natural Burmese Mogok ruby of 10.62 carats, bringing ‘the king of gems’ and ‘the king of
jewellers’ together as one extraordinary creation.
Apart from the Panther, exotic motifs from the Orient such as Egyptian, Indian, Chinese and
Japanese elements also highly prized among Cartier’s iconic Art Deco designs. A most
recent example was the Barbara Hutton jadeite bead necklace that fetched HK$214 million at
Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April 2014, setting auction records for any jadeite jewellery and a
Cartier jewel at the time. This Art Deco Jadeite, Enamel, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch,
Cartier, Circa 1927 (Est. HK$7 – 8 million / US$900,000 – 1 million; lot 1851) perfectly
illustrates the maison’s elevated skills in blending colours, textures and periods that highlight
its bold Art Deco designs. By outlining the green jadeite with red enamel evoking 19th-Century Chinese cinnabar lacquer
and completing the ‘tutti frutti’ colour palette with sapphires, emerald and jadeite beads, the maison stayed true to its
audacity and subtle elegance. The jadeite plaque bears very fine pictorial carving on both sides and is likely to date from the
Qing dynasty. The Indo-Persian palmette motifs on the brooch are neatly contoured by the shield-shaped rock crystal frame.
This Art Deco brooch is not only representative of Cartier’s imaginative faculty, but also attests to the fruitful encounter of
East and West almost a century ago, culminating in originality, integration and lasting elegance.
Also on offer is a Pair of 10.05-Carat Colombian Emerald and 9.45-Carat Diamond Ear Clips
by Cartier (Est. HK$8.5 – 10.5 million / US$1.1 – 1.3 million; lot 1866) which accentuates the
maison’s elegant design with rare natural Colombian emerald of outstanding clarity and highly
saturated and desirable green colour.
Another renowned jewellery brand Van Cleef & Arpels is
represented in the upcoming sale with two unique jewels from its
Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection - a Sapphire and Diamond
Necklace and Pair of Matching Ear Clips, Van Cleef & Arpels
(Est. HK$2 – 2.8 million / US$250,000 – 350,000; lot 1648,
pictured left) and a Cultured Pearl, Sapphire, Diamond and
Onyx Necklace Est. HK$2.4 – 4 million / US$300,000 – 500,000;
lot 1846, pictured right previous page). Inspired by four key
adventure novels by renowned inventor and writer, Jules Verne, namely Five Weeks in a Balloon, Twenty Thousand
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Leagues Under the Sea, From the Earth to the Moon, and Journey to the Center of the Earth, the collection is a hymn
to imagination and to the power of dreams and fantasy, and alludes to the history of the maison itself and to its
representatives who have travelled the globe in search of the finest gems.
DIAMONDS
An indispensable part of any jewellery collection, diamonds are represented in this sale in a variety of colours, cuts
and sizes, all of exceptional quality. Among the scarcest in coloured diamonds, pink diamonds of more than 5 carats,
such as the one in this upcoming 5.24-carat Fancy Intense Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring
(Est. HK$25.5 – 30 million / US$3.3 – 3.8 million; lot 1869) are a rare occurrence. Combined
with a strong and saturated pink colour graded as Fancy Intense, this is a true gem of Nature.
Following the sensational and rare Graff Vivid Yellow Diamond weighing 100.09 carats
that set the world auction record for yellow diamond at CHF14,501,000 (US$16,347,799) in
November 2014, the Autumn sale will bring to the market a 41.65-carat Internally
Flawless Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring (Est. HK$15 – 18 million /
US$1.9 – 2.3 million; lot 1731). Of significant proportions and the highest colour grading
of Fancy Vivid, this golden stone guarantees to be a stunner.
A fine selection of perfect stones embodying the best attributes in a diamond will also be offered – D colour, internally
flawless clarity, excellent cut, polish and symmetry (Triple X) and the purest Type IIa quality. These include a 9.65 Carat
DIF Diamond Ring (Est. HK$9 – 11 million / US$1.2 – 1.4 million; lot 1867, pictured below centre) as well as rare
well-matched stones presented in pairs such as a Pair of 8.05 and 8.03-carat DIF Diamond Earrings (Est. HK$15 – 18
million / US$1.9 – 2.3 million; lot 1741, pictured below left) and a Pair of 9.42 and 8.93-carat DIF Diamond Pendent
Earrings by Harry Winston (Est. HK$12 – 14 million / US$1.5 – 1.8 million; lot 1868, pictured below right).
NATURAL COLOURED GEMSTONES
For the past few years, Sotheby’s had been in the forefront overseeing record-breaking sales of Kashmir sapphires
worldwide. In October 2014, Sotheby’s Hong Kong achieved consecutive per-carat price records for Kashmir
sapphires - first with the 12.00 carat Cartier sapphire ring at US$193,975 per carat, and then with a 17.16 carat
sapphire at US$236,404. This happened only months before the current per-carat auction record was set at
US$240,205 in June 2015, a testimony to the insatiable desire for sapphires of this prestigious pedigree.
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The original Kashmir mines were discovered in the early 1880s and were operated only for seven years before they
were depleted. Most of the sizeable Kashmir sapphires found on the market today were unearthed in the original ‘old
mines’, an utmost rarity making up just a very tiny part of the world’s sapphire supply. Their unsurpassed and unique
blue colour is soft and velvety, yet rich and lustrous, which charms under any kind of light, unlike
non-Kashmir stones which may appear purplish or grayish in comparison. The Jewel of Kashmir,
a 27.68-carat Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring (Est. HK$48 – 55 million / US$6.2 – 7
million; lot 1860), free from any treatment, shows an attractive velvety blue colour. Such a rare
treasure stands for the highest standard in any gem connoisseur’s delectable collection, and it is no
doubt one of the most desirable sapphires offered at auction.
Apart from Kashmir sapphires, rubies of top quality from the preferred origin of Burma are also extremely rare and
have been highly sought after in the past few years. A most recent example is the 25.59-carat Sunrise Ruby that
fetched US$30.3 million in May 2015 at Sotheby’s Geneva, more than tripling the previous record of the Graff Ruby
established only last November in the same saleroom, while also setting the per-carat price record for ruby at
US$1,185,451 per carat. The upcoming 27.91-carat Burmese Ruby, Diamond and Natural Pearl Bracelet (Est.
HK$32 – 45 million / US$4 – 5.5 million; lot 1862) features a ruby of stunning size
from Mogok Valley in Burma, free of heat treatment and in an unusual antique
cushion cutting, boasting a fine combination of tone, saturation, fluorescence and
inclusions. The 12 old mine-cut diamonds were carefully selected to match the
ruby’s distinct character and charm which are rarely found in more modern cuttings.
In its present antique mount it is highly likely to have been part of a more elaborate
jewel. The centrepiece can be readily transformed into a ring or a brooch.
JADEITE
The jadeite jewellery on offer is led by a Pair of Jadeite ‘Peapod’ and Diamond Pendent Earrings (Est. HK$8 –
11 million / US$1 – 1.4 million; lot 1845, pictured above far left) that are highly desirable for the lovely plump
shape as well as transparent and luscious green hue. The Jadeite ‘Monkey’ and Diamond Pendant (Est. HK$1.85 –
2.2 million / US$240,00 – 280,000; lot 1700, pictured above second left). Ranking ninth in the Chinese zodiac, the
monkey is a common motif in jadeite art piece, most often depicted as a lively spirit holding a peach, symbolising
longevity and good health. Also on offer are pieces epitomising the traditional cabochon form, the timeless classic in
jadeite jewellery that accentuates the Oriental gem’s mesmerising translucency, fine texture and vivid verdant colour
to their fullest. These include a Jadeite and Diamond Ring (Est. HK$3.8 – 4.8 million / US$480,000 – 600,000; lot
1822, pictured above second right) and a Pair of Jadeite Earstuds (Est. HK$8 – 12 million / US$1 – 1.5 million;
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lot 1728, pictured on previous page far right) featuring two cabochons of impressive sizes, intense green colour,
fine texture and beautiful translucency.
*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium and prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer’s premium.
Images available upon request │Catalogues are available online at www.sothebys.com or through Sotheby’s Catalogue iPad App
NOTES TO EDITORS
I) SOTHEBY'S HONG KONG AUTUMN SALES 2015 CALENDAR (The schedule is subject to change)
Auction
Category
3 October
The Classic Cellar From A Prestigious Collection
The Contemporary Cellar From Impeccable Storage at Octavian
4 October
Finest & Rarest Wines
Modern And Contemporary Asian Art – Evening Sale
(Modern Asian Art, Contemporary Asian Art and Modern and Contemporary Southeast Asian Art )
5 October
Modern Asian Art Day Sale
Full Circle – Yoshihara Jiro Collection
Contemporary Asian Art Day Sale
Modern And Contemporary Southeast Asian Art Day Sale
Fine Classical Chinese Paintings
Contemporary Ink Art
6 October
Fine Chinese Paintings
Important Watches
7 October
Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite
Ming Furniture – The Dr S Y Yip Collection
Imperial Consort
Vajrayana: Voyage to the Tantra
Imperial Interiors
Important Chinese Art
HONG KONG EXHIBITION AND AUCTION VENUE
Hall 3, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing), 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
II) TRAVELLING EXHIBITIONS CALENDAR
Date
City
3 – 4 September
6 – 7 September
12 – 13 September
15 – 16 September
19 – 20 September
Shanghai
Beijing
Singapore
Bangkok
Taipei
Venue
Jing An Shangri-La
China World Summit Wing
The Regent
The Sukhothai
Hua Nan Bank International Convention Center
III) SOTHEBY’S SELLING EXHIBITION IN SEPTEMBER – OCTOBER (The schedule is subject to change)
Date
Event
Venue
12 – 25 September
2 – 7 October
Alexander Calder: Imagining the Universe
Age of Elegance
Sotheby’s Hong Kong Gallery
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
IV) FOR MORE NEWS FROM SOTHEBY’S
Visit: www.sothebys.com/en/inside/services/press/news/news.html
Follow: www.twitter.com/sothebys & www.weibo.com/sothebyshongkong & WeChat (ID: sothebyshongkong)
Join: www.facebook.com/sothebys
Watch: www.youtube.com/sothebys
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