The anatomy of the eye
Master Training
Advanced Eyeliner
• The eyelids and eyelashes serve to prevent the eyes from
injury and dehydration. The eye has a diameter of about
2,5 cm and is located directly under the eyelid. The eye lies
within the orbit and is protected by the scull and the eyelids.
• The eyelids blink about 4 to 15 times per minute. This is a
protective reflex and also serves to cleanse the eye.
• The lacrimal glands are located in the upper corner. They
produce tears that serve as a moisturizer to cleanser of the
eyelids.
• The tear-duct is visible when you the stretch the inner
corner of the eyelid. You may never do micropigmentation in
the tear-duct!
• As a precaution: you may never do micropigmentation in the
inner eyeliner or beyond the eyelash line in the upper eyelid
corner. You will risk migration: pigments will migrate into
the surrounding tissue.
• You will prevent migration by utilizing minimal pressure to
you hand piece. In addition, you should utilize larger needle
formations such as the 5 point needle. These will have
higher skin resistance because more tissue is covered.
• The first symptoms of ageing are visible at the eyes. Tissue
around the eye will be the first tissue to become thinner.
• When the eyeliner is set too far outward it may tilt
downward when time progresses.
• Using tattoo ink may cause migration. The particle size of
the ink is on average only 10% of the size of an iron oxide
particle. Because they are so small they may flow out in
the tissue and migrate further. This may even occur a few
years after the procedure. Always use pigments that are
developed for micropigmentation.
• Prevent that anesthesia flows into the eye.
• Contact lenses cannot be worn during the procedure. They
are allowed again 24 hours following the procedure.
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Master Training
Advanced Eyeliner
Correcting Eye Shapes
• The lighter the eye, skin and hair, the softer the pigment
color should be of the under eyeliner.
• Small eyes: you can visually enlarge them by darkening the
outer third part of the under eyeliner.
• Round eyes: try to visually stretch the eye, but stay a close a
possible to the eyelash.
• Sunken eyes: create a light and colorful contour.
• Narrow eyes: Apply a lighter color on the inner half of the
eyeliner and a darker color on the outer half of the eyeliner.
Eye infections
• Eye infection: a burning sensation in the eyes, the eyes
are tearing and itchy, and the eyelids are glued together
(especially in the morning).
• An eye infection can be caused by a virus (herpes simplex),
bacterial infection (chlamydia), hypersensitivity or allergies
(hay fever).
• An eye infection can cause pain but is rarely dangerous.
• Contact the general practitioner immediately when the
eyesight diminishes, or when the eyes ache or become red.
• Give aftercare instructions to your clients. This will prevent
infections and will avoid discussions with your clients.
What is an advanced eyeliner?
Shadowed upper eyeliner
Contrasted upper eyeliner
Design upper eyeliner
Soft under eyeliner through using the pointillism technique
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Master Training
Advanced Eyeliner
Techniques for eyes
• One way striping: a line in one direction
• Two way striping: line back and forward
• Circling
• Pointillism
• First line: with a 3 Liner Needle or 5 Shader needle to break
the skin
• Pigment about 2 mm skin with the 2 way striping technique
in an overlapping movement, keeping the needle and your
stroke in motion. Use the a 3 Liner Needle or 5 Shader
needle.
• When using the circling technique on the upper eyelid you
will achieve a more intense and darker result.
• When using the pointillism technique you can create
‘smokey eyes’. Use a 3 Micro needle or a 3 Outline needle.
Shadowed upper eyeliner
• Start with a regular eyeliner by using the 2 way striping
technique.
• Shadow effect: use a 5 Point Magnum needle or a 9
Magnum needle.
• Work slowly with a scooping movement, working from the
existing eyeliner lightly upward. This will result in a soft
shadowed eyeliner.
Contrast upper eyeliner
• Before creating a colored (contrasting) eyeliner, there needs
to be a dark base eyeliner.
• When an intense line is desired, use a 3 (power) needle on
two-thirds of the eyeliner in a 2 way striping technique.
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• When a soft line is desired, use a larger needle grouping
such as the 5 or 7 point needle.
Master Training
Advanced Eyeliner
Design upper eyeliner
• An elevated and high upper eyeliner will require more
procedures. Pre-draw the intended line with a semipermanent liner. Use a 3 sloped or 5 sloped needle.
• First set the upper liner, then fill in using the 2 way striping
technique.
Soft under eyeliner
• It is esthetically incorrect to only create an under eyeliner.
The eye will look heavy.
• It is esthetically correct to only create an upper eyeliner. An
upper liner will be appealing because it shows as a eyelash
thickening. It will also intensify the color of the iris amd
make the glance more intense.
• A subtle under eyeliner can be obtained by using a soft
color (for example brown or olive) and a 3 Outline or 3
Micro needle. Use the pointillism technique and keep your
handpiece in a 45 degree angle. Do not make dots only.
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