YEMEN CHAMELEON
These Chameleons are found near the border of Yemen and Saudi Arabia, which gives them the
name "Yemen Chameleons" as well as the more common name of Veiled Chameleons.
Juveniles are light green in colour, but as adults they show colours such as gold, dark green,
orange, black and dark blue.
Veiled chameleons are shy, and should be kept in stress
free surroundings by keeping vibration and noise to
a minimum.
Chameleons do not change colour to match the colour surrounding them.
The reason for colour changes in chameleons is often in response to emotional changes, or to
communicate with other chameleons. Different colours and patterns indicate different messages:
happy/content, food/hungry, tired/sleep, alert/uncertain, stressed etc.
UV light is essential to the wellbeing and survival of the chameleon. An ill chameleon is normally
short of UV exposure. The UV tube needs replacing every 9 to 12 months.
HANDLING
Like all chameleons, Veiled (Yemen) have "zygodactyl feet" (toes grouped in opposition to each
other), a perfect adaptation for life in the trees. Able to grasp branches, it can also wrap its
prehensile tail around branches and twigs for balance. Chameleons are not fast moving
animals, and must always be handled carefully. Avoid moving towards the chameleon too fast,
and always allow the chameleon to hold onto you, rather than you grab the chameleon.
SUBSTRATE and DECORATION
The base of the vivarium must be kept clean. Use wood chip, sand or artificial grass mats to line
the base of the vivarium. The vivarium must contain plenty of climbing places. Use branches or
strong twigs to achieve this. Artificial branches are best as they are free from parasites. If real
branches are to be used, ensurec that they have beensteralized and are free from parasites.
TEMPERATURE
The average temperature of the vivarium during daytime should be around 80 - 85 deg F at the
heated end of the tank. The vivarium should have a basking site where the temperature should
be around 90 deg F. The basking site will be provided using a 60 or 100 watt daytime reptile
bulb, or if possible a ceramic heat lamp. The heat should be further supplemented using a
heat mat beneath or behind the vivarium. The night time temperature should not drop below 65
deg F.
This is maintained using the heat mat.
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT
Regular exposure to UVB light is essential. The ultraviolet light will be provided using a UV
fluorescent light tube. This is placed not more than 12 inches from the basking site, and should
be on for between 10 to 14 hours each day. The UV tube should be replaced every 6 months.
Although the tube will still emit visible light, the light will no longer include any UV light.
SEXING
Males have a larger body and casque (head crest) when mature. They are born with tarsal spur,
which being visible at hatching, makes sexing simple. Also males are thinner in appearance
than
females.Males reach a total body length of 12" to 19" within the first year. Females, bearing a
smaller head and casque, reach their full growth of 10" to 14" after one year. Unlike males,
females are heavily bodied when mature.
HEARING, SMELL and VISION
Chameleons have very poor hearing, though they do respond to "dull" noises. They also have
no sense of smell. Despite this, they do have excellent vision, being able to look in two different
directions at the same time.
FEEDING CHAMELEONS
Young chameleons will feed on 5 to 10 small crickets per day. The chameleons hunt for their
prey by staying very still and allowing food to move into its path. They then use their tongue to
catch the unsuspecting cricket. A chameleons tongue can often be as long as its body, with the
end of the tongue being sticky. The chamelon wraps the end of its tongue around its prey, and
then retracts its tongue, bringing the food into the chameleons mouth. When at rest, the tongue
sits at the bottom of the throat, behind the head. Also, locusts are used to feed Chameleons.
An adult chameleon will feed on up to 40 to 50 crickets per day.
VITAMINS
Calcium and vitamin supplements should be provided in the correct quantity.
WATER
Drinking water should always be available. Chameleons drink from "drips". The easiest and best
way to provide a drip of water is by using a commercially available dripper. These hold plenty of
water, and the drip rate can be adjusted.
Urmston Aquatics & Reptile Centre
20 The Circle, Barton Road, Lostock, Manchester. M32 9TR
0161-755-0030
www.urmstonaquatics.co.uk
email : [email protected]