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NOVEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR
AndrewHarper.com
T R AV E L I N G T H E WO R L D I N S E A R C H O F T RU LY E N C H A N T I N G P L AC E S
D OM I N IC A , BV I, A NGU I L L A A N D D OM I N IC A N R E P U BL IC
IN THE NEWS
Capella in
St. Lucia
MARIGOT BAY is one
of the safest and most
picturesque anchorages in
the Caribbean. Two-thirds
of the way up the west
coast of St. Lucia, it is a
narrow inlet of jade-green
water sheltered by steep,
forested slopes. From
here, yachts head north
to Martinique or south
to the Grenadines.
The 124-room Capella
Marigot Bay opened
in August. Many of the
57 suites come with
private pools; the Auriga
spa features outdoor
treatment rooms
in treehouses; and
restaurants include Brut,
a sushi bar with panoramic
views. Although there
is no beach, activities
include rain forest hikes,
scuba diving, day sailing,
mixology lessons in the
Rum Cave, and Caribbean
cooking classes.
CAPELLAHOTELGROUP.COM
This Month
Caribbean Discoveries
Contrasting new resorts —
from rain forest to beachfront
Colonial Mexico
Hotel discoveries, distinctive
cuisine, cultural highlights
 Online This Month
Read more hotel reviews from
our trip to the highlands of
Mexico, plus craft-shopping
suggestions for Guadalajara,
Guanajuato and Morelia.
Island-Hopping in the Caribbean
Infinity pool of Zabuco Villa, Secret Bay
© IMAGES DOMINICA
T HE WOR D ‘C A R IBBE A N ’ CON V E YS A PROM ISE OF W HI T E SA N D, A Z U R E WAT ER S, CO OL ING
cocktails and spicy island cooking. But of course, the Caribbean Sea contains dozens of
islands, which offer a wide variety of landscapes and attractions. The trick is choosing the
right one. I’ve recommended places to friends who assured me that all they wanted was
a quiet getaway — solitary beaches, long novels, simple food — only to discover later that
they had decamped to somewhere with bright lights, jumping bars and ample shopping.
Our recent trip took us from the green,
mountainous and unspoiled island of Dominica to
the dazzling sands of the Dominican Republic by
way of the British Virgin Islands and Anguilla. Few
travelers will hop around as we did, but doing so was
a reminder of the shortcomings of the inter-island
airlines: Flights were canceled and departure times
changed, often with no advance warning. Dominica
has no direct service from the United States, so we
were obliged to go via the hub of San Juan, bracing
ourselves for whatever LIAT had in store.
Dominica
W
e arrived in the late afternoon, with sufficient
daylight to see why Dominica styles itself
the “Nature Island.” Volcanic in origin, it does
not have the white beaches to be found elsewhere
For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected].
AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected].
Zabuco Villa on a cliff at Secret Bay
© IMAGES DOMINICA
SIGH T SE E I NG
Rain Forest
Splendors
THANKS TO ITS STEEP
terrain and abundant rainfall — about 40 inches a
year — more than a dozen
significant waterfalls lace
Dominica’s jungle-clad
mountainsides. Many
are located in the Morne
Trois Pitons National
Park in the southeast of
the island. Designated a
UNESCO World Heritage
site, the 17,000-acre
preserve also contains
well-known Boiling Lake,
the second-largest hot
spring lake in the world.
Energetic hikers opt for
a 75-minute trek through
the rain forest to impressive Middleham Falls.
Alternatively, you can take
an undemanding stroll
to the double cascade
of Trafalgar Falls: the
“Father,” at 125 feet, and
the “Mother,” at 95 feet.
The falls are reached
from the visitor center
by a 15-minute walk on
well-maintained trails to a
viewing platform. We were
rewarded along the way
with sightings of several
hummingbird species.
in the region. This has spared it the heedless
development that has marred some of its neighbors.
What Dominica does have are impressive peaks,
some of them 5,000 feet high; a dozen spectacular
waterfalls; and dense tropical rain forests that allow
more than 1,000 species of plants and 172 species
of birds to flourish. Almost one-third of the island
has been set aside as nature reserves.
Because of the challenging terrain, roads pretty
much have to run around the coast. From a map, I
would have thought that the ride from the airport
to our hotel would have been about 20 minutes,
but given all the twists and turns, it took well over
an hour. This gave us the chance to chat with our
driver, who exhibited both considerable satisfaction
that we had made our way to his homeland and
optimism about its future.
Part of that bright future will doubtless
include the debuts of more adventure hotels, as
well as luxurious eco-resorts. We had come to
stay at Secret Bay, the first truly upscale property
on the island. Gregor Nassief, a man with strong
roots on Dominica and an appreciation of its
potential (backed by a successful business career
in Latin America), discovered an ideal spot for
development — a dramatic promontory on the
island’s northwest coast situated between two
beaches. To realize his vision, he turned to the
distinguished Venezuelan architect Fruto Vivas,
who also happens to be his father-in-law. The results
are stunning: three one-bedroom clifftop villas;
one two-bedroom villa; and two hillside villas. All
have been executed with superb craftsmanship that
brings to mind the best resorts in Southeast Asia.
2 hideaway report | November 2014 Without question, the most desirable are the
clifftop Zabuco Villas. At 110 feet above the sea,
their location alone would set them apart, but the
architecture is breathtaking. Supported by four
concrete pedestals of sculptural grace, the upper
level seems to defy gravity and to float above the
ground. Open and pavilion-like, with floor-to-ceiling
windows in the living room, the 1,400-square-foot
space includes a sea-facing deck, a kitchen fully
equipped with German appliances (including a
wine fridge), and a combined bed and bath, the
latter with Italian fixtures, a freestanding tub and
a shower with six heads. On the ground level, there
is a plunge pool and a hammock. The beauty of the
materials impressed me greatly — warm Guyana
greenheart and glowing furniture crafted from
Dominican red cedar.
“Zing-Zing,” the two-bedroom villa, is done
in much the same style, although the view is less
impressive and there is a hot tub instead of a pool.
The hillside villas are duplexes, each with a kitchen,
living area and deck downstairs, and a bedroom and
separate bath upstairs, reached via a spiral staircase.
Lovely as they are, they suffer in comparison with
the Zabuco Villas.
Well in advance of our arrival, the hotel had sent
a questionnaire asking about culinary preferences,
drink choices and groceries we might want stocked
in the kitchen. All were waiting for us. There is no
dining room or restaurant at Secret Bay; instead,
there is a dedicated cooking facility, where meals
are prepared at your direction and brought to your
villa by a staff member. For both lunch and dinner,
we were given an array of choices. The food was
delicious, among the best we’ve had in the Caribbean,
and the knock at the door at mealtimes triggered a
Pavlovian response of happy anticipation. Among
the memorable dishes were grilled tuna steaks with
a rich Creole sauce; crisp, puffy vegetable samosas;
and an island favorite of mine, goat curry over rice.
The unfailingly helpful staff advised us on
hiking, snorkeling and kayaking. We especially
enjoyed a visit to the double cascade of Trafalgar
Falls (see box), followed by snorkeling at Champagne
Beach, so named for the geothermal gas that bubbles
up from the reef.
Dominica is an intriguing alternative to the more
developed islands. Beach options are limited, but if
you are energetic, there are innumerable activities
and excursions. And for the more sedentary, there
is always a plunge pool and a sublime view.
British Virgin Islands
T
here is a way to improve the phrase “Caribbean
island,” which is to preface it with the word
“private.” Following our exceptionally peaceful and
relaxing stay on Dominica, we headed for two such
places, both in the British Virgin Islands, an idyllic
archipelago that lies approximately 70 miles to the
east of Puerto Rico.
I have long recommended Peter Island. With
five dazzling beaches and just 55 accommodations,
this is a romantic, unhurried getaway. Of late,
however, I had received some complaints about the
service and the intrusion of sailors from visiting
yachts, so a return visit seemed in order.
The 32 original chalets by the marina and the
main restaurant are comfortable, but my strong
preference remains for the 20 Beach Front Junior
Suites. These were refreshed not long ago, and I love
the interplay of stone walls, mahogany accents, bright
fabrics and colorful prints. Baths come with walk-in
showers and whirlpool tubs. Lower-level rooms have
outdoor terraces and hammocks, while upper-level
rooms feature cathedral ceilings and large balconies.
Families would find the three villas attractive:
“Hawk’s Nest,” with three bedrooms; “Crow’s Nest,”
with four; and “Falcon’s Nest,” with six.
At the resort’s casual restaurant, Deadman’s
Beach Bar & Grill, we relished exemplary fish tacos,
made of grilled mahi mahi and accompanied by
chunky guacamole, tangy red cabbage and mango
slaw; as well as a first-class shrimp curry. We also
SPI R I T S
Caribbean
Rums
Macoucherie The
Shillingford Estate on the
west coast of Dominica
distills rum from sugar
cane juice, using a water
mill to crush the cane. I
found the regular bottling
— what is locally called
a “red” rum — to be too
rough on my palate. To
my surprise, I deemed the
spiced iteration worthy; it
would be just the thing in a
planter’s punch.
British Navy Pusser’s
Rum For 300 years,
sailors in the British Royal
Navy received a daily rum
ration, which was doled
out by the ship’s purser.
In 1979, entrepreneur
Charles Tobias secured
the rights and formula
and began British Navy
Pusser’s Rum on Tortola in
the BVI. I find it a splendid
product, with notes of
vanilla, toffee and a hint of
orange.
“
There is a way to
improve the phrase
‘Caribbean island,’
which is to preface it
with the word ‘private.’
We headed for two such
places in the BVI.
One of five beaches, and a Beach
Front Junior Suite at Peter Island
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
Brugal XV Ron Reserva
Exclusiva Made in
the Dominican Republic
since 1888, this rum
uses molasses as a base.
The distillate is aged
in American white oak
barrels (formerly used for
aging American whiskey),
then rums from three to
eight years old are blended
for the final product. The
result is a clear amber
spirit. I enjoy the butterscotch character, with a
presence of spicy orange.
It is a fine drink on its own.
November 2014 | hideaway report 3
CAICOS
(UK)
or by a wall-mounted iPad. We found the bath to
be one of the most appealing we’ve seen in some
time, with facing vanities, a soaking tub next to a
window, a large walk-in shower and an additional
outdoor shower area.
At check-in, efficiently handled by attractive
staff, we were presented with keys to our own golf
cart. This we used primarily to get to the Caletón
Beach Club, a splendid facility with a large pool and
a smaller children’s pool located just steps from the
powdery sands and crystalline water. Although it
is small, the resort’s beach is a perfect semicircular
cove flanked by rocky outcroppings. Multiple palapas
and chaises longues provided idyllic venues for
reading, resting and sipping the drinks brought to
us by waiters.
The seaside restaurant, La Palapa, is a breezy
pavilion that serves superb seafood. We especially
enjoyed grilled octopus, a spicy tuna roll, a wellbalanced pasta dish with local Sanchez prawns in
a yellow curry sauce, and grilled grouper with a
lemon/white wine/caper sauce. Mediterraneo, the
resort’s principal restaurant, provides a fine setting
for delicious food. We could not resist the lasagnetta
of spider crab and leeks served with seafood ragout,
and I also enjoyed grilled snapper with truffles and
mashed potatoes.
In addition to the beach facilities, Eden Roc
has a spa with six treatment cabanas, whirlpools,
saunas, steam rooms and rainfall showers. There
is a well-equipped gym and a children’s club. This
lovely, tranquil place is a notable addition to the
roster of the Caribbean’s leading resorts. H
Beach at Secret Bay
PHOTO BY PAUL HUYNH
H O T E L S AT A G L A N C E
Secret Bay A92 MAP REF. 1
L I K E Superb accommodations; excellent food; the sense of being in a world of your own. D I S L I K E The
most accessible beach is rocky and uninviting. G O O D T O K N O W Private chefs can be engaged to cook
in your villa, and cookery classes that showcase traditional Dominican cuisine are offered. TWO-BEDROOM
VILLA, $930 (WINTER HIGH SEASON); ZABUCO VILLA, $1,057. ROSS BOULEVARD, DOMINICA. TEL. (767) 445-4444.
 SECRETBAY.DM Peter Island Resort & Spa A94 MAP REF. 2
L I K E The resort never seems crowded, as it spreads over a wide area; fine white-sand beaches. D I S L I K E The slightly inconvenient walk from the beach to the main restaurant and pool. G O O D T O
K N O W If you are traveling via St. Thomas (as opposed to Beef Island, Tortola), arrive before 2:30 p.m.
on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday and you can ride the 90-minute Peter Island ferry. BEACH FRONT
JUNIOR SUITE, $1,325 (WINTER HIGH SEASON; MEAL PLAN OPTIONS AVAILABLE). ROAD TOWN, TORTOLA, BVI.
 TEL. (284) 495-2000. PETERISLAND.COM Guana Island A91 MAP REF. 3
L I K E Low-key charm; traditional Caribbean atmosphere; utter tranquility. D I S L I K E Some rooms lack
air-conditioning. G O O D T O K N O W If you are in search of luxurious accommodations and lavish baths,
this property will not appeal to you. SEAVIEW COTTAGE, $1,250 (WINTER HIGH SEASON); VILLA, FROM $2,350;
ENTIRE ISLAND (36 GUESTS), FROM $22,150. MUSKMELON BAY, BVI. TEL. (284) 494-2354. GUANA.COM Viceroy Anguilla A91 MAP REF. 4
L I K E Delicious food; excellent service; fine beach. D I S L I K E Large size (166 rooms) on a small, low-key
island; international design and resulting lack of a sense of place. G O O D T O K N O W The staff have
encyclopedic local knowledge, which they are only too happy to share. VICEROY KING, $800 (WINTER
HIGH SEASON); VICEROY STUDIO OCEAN VIEW, $1,050. BARNES BAY, WEST END, ANGUILLA. TEL. (264) 497-7000.
VICEROYHOTELSANDRESORTS.COM  Eden Roc at Cap Cana A95 MAP REF. 5
L I K E Privacy of the cottage suites; solicitous staff. D I S L I K E Although the road to the beach club isn’t
crowded, you do have to be wary of regular cars while driving your golf cart. G O O D T O K N O W The
property is only 20 minutes from the airport, which has direct service to the United States. JUNIOR SUITE,
FROM $1,105 (WINTER HIGH SEASON). CAP CANA, JUANILLO, PUNTA CANA, PROVINCIA LA ALTAGRACIA, DOMINICAN
 REPUBLIC. TEL. (809) 469-7469. EDENROCCAPCANA.COM preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information
A on these and 30 additional recommendations in the Caribbean.
BRITISH
VIRGIN
ISLANDS
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC
AT L A N T I C O C E A N
ANGUILLA
5
4
PUERTO
RICO
U.S. VIRGIN
ISLANDS
ST. BARTHS
ST. MARTIN
BARBUDA
ANEGADA
G R E A T
A N T I L
E R
L E S
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
ANEGADA (U.K.)
0
15 KM
3
L
E
S
S
MONTSERRAT
E
R
VIRGIN
GORDA
GUADELOUPE
A
JOST VAN
DYKE
GUANA
ISLAND
ANTIGUA
ST. KITTS & NEVIS
BRITISH
VIRGIN ISLANDS
15 MI
0

N
T
TORTOLA
I
L
CARIBBEAN SEA
S
2 PETER
ISLAND
0
0
U.S.
VIRGIN ISLANDS
C a r i b b e a n
E
ST. JOHN
L
ST. THOMAS
S e a
50
50
100 KM
100 MI
1
DOMINICA
MARTINIQUE
ST. CROIX (U.S.)
November 2014 | hideaway report 7
ST LUCIA