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Cultural Tourism and Economic Development in Peru
Prof. Helaine Silverman
Department of Anthropology
email: [email protected]
GLBL 298 Global Studies Seminar Abroad
1 credit for on campus course in Fall 2012
2 credits for Peru course accomplished over Winter Break
SYLLABUS FOR ON-CAMPUS AND IN-PERU PROGRAM
This course deals with cultural heritage tourism and its foreseen as well as unintended
social and economic impacts on local communities.
Tourism is often described as the world’s largest global industry. It affects virtually all
countries around the world and is eagerly promoted by most of these. We explore one of the key
motors of tourism: the UNESCO World Heritage List, which is an engine of global cultural
governance affecting national policy-making and local stakeholders. UNESCO World Heritage
sites are a key vector of cultural tourism and its economic development. But not all tourism and
development yield equally beneficial results. Moreover, the relationship between “hosts” (the
people living in the foreign country) and “guests” (tourists) is complex and complicated.
As we study the relationship between tourism, economic development and communities
students will learn how anthropologists conduct research in a range of ethnological settings, from
small rural communities, to towns whose entire existence is dependent on tourism, to cities that
are struggling to negotiate the lure of tourism with the need to create a diversified economy and a
socially just environment for their local residents. We investigate these issues using three of
Peru’s World Heritage sites as our case study:
Cuzco: former capital of the great Inca Empire and a remarkable travel destination now as
well as the gateway to Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu; the so-called “Lost City of the Incas” and one of the greatest ancient sites
in the entire world
Lima: capital of Peru whose colonial core (today’s downtown) is full of great churches
and important vernacular architecture
On campus dates
Second eight weeks in Fall 2012: Tuesdays (5-7 p.m.) in Davenport Hall, room 312
DATES: October 16, October 23, October 30, November 6, November 13, December 4
Peru dates: during winter break
January 1-12, 2013
If you are not a U.S. citizen, you may need a visa to enter Peru. Check with G3 Visas &
Passports and with the Peruvian Embassy. Then double-check. Then triple-check.
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Learning about Peru
• Throughout the Cuzco-Sacred Valley portion of the program we will see fabulous sites
and interesting contemporary towns. We will be speaking with many different kinds of
Peruvians: university students, tour guides, hotel and restaurant owners and employee
staff, ordinary people in the street, officials.
• In Cuzco we will see a particularly strong local regional identity known as Cuzqueñismo,
including how it plays out in tourism development.
• In Lima we will see the dynamic cultural and political capital of the nation.
• Throughout, we will savor Peruvian food, which is one of the world’s greatest cuisines,
and you will learn how one renowned chef has created a successful marketing and
branding campaign of Peruvian food, promoting it a core element of national identity.
The main question/problem/theme
One main research question undergirds the course on campus, in preparation for the
study abroad component. Students will be challenged to consider: Why do countries seek to
inscribe their archaeological sites on UNESCO’s World Heritage List? Students will learn that:
(1) Typically, inscription on the World Heritage List promotes cultural tourism, widely regarded
as an engine of economic development; and (2) Listing as a World Heritage Site also provides
“cultural capital” in the form of prestige for a country, making it a competitive player on the
world stage in this era of globalization. We will especially concentrate on the first factor because
World Heritage listing is not without attendant problems. It is those problems this course seeks to
examine through case studies, enriched by related activities so as to provide a broad and
comprehensive treatment of Peru. Therefore, the study abroad component of the course will be
driven by a related set of questions: What are the political, social, and economic complications
as well as officially envisioned benefits of the World Heritage List designation? Is World
Heritage listing the best future for communities living within or near World Heritage Sites?
Specific course objectives
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Teach the students the fundamentals of ethnographic research and the field called
“anthropology of tourism”
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Teach the students that “the past” is directly relevant to “the present”
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Teach the students about the concept of cultural heritage and its salience in this era of
globalization, particularly in terms of tourism and the “manufacture and consumption of
heritage”
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Teach the students contemporary principles of heritage management, as codified in a
series of conventions passed by UNESCO and other international bodies
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Enable the students to conceive and undertake problem-focused field research that is
feasible and rewarding
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Enrich the students’ understanding of the complex interconnections and intersections of
history, politics, ethnicity and culture as a general reality of the contemporary world
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Stimulate the students to critically assess “development” as an assumed “good” by
contemplating its “bad” aspects as well, and the balance between better and worse outcomes.
Promoting values for global learning, diversity and sustainable futures
Peru is particularly amenable to the promotion of learning about diversity and sustainable
futures because of its own ethnic, cultural and socioeconomic diversity and because mass
tourism is posing challenges of sustainability to the inert sites and to the communities in which
or near which they are located. Students will develop inquiry/critical thinking skills through the
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on-campus assignments and especially through the actual field experiences in Peru, which are
framed as case studies of particular issues (each “visit” during the program has a purpose) and
the projects the students will conduct.
The students’ final grade will be calculated as follows:
Pre-departure reseach: 30%
Field research in Peru: 20%
Journal entries: 40%
Participation: 10 %
OUTLINE OF TOPICS & ASSIGNMENTS ON CAMPUS IN SECOND 8 WEEKS
All readings are on moodle for GLBL 298-Peru.
October 16: INTRODUCTION. THE ANTHROPOLOGY OF TOURISM
Topic 1: Introductions: The professor introduces herself. The students introduce themselves.
Syllabus is discussed in terms of the expectations for the on-campus sessions and the study
abroad component.
Topic 2: The anthropology of tourism.
Required readings you need to have done before coming to class for this session:
• pp. 25-66 (Chapter 2, 3, 4 – very short text) in Peter Burns’ An Introduction to Tourism &
Anthropology (Routledge, 1999)
• Dean MacCannell. “Staged Authenticity” in his book, The Tourist (University of California
Press, 1999) [originally 1976], pp. 91-107.
• “The Tourist Gaze” by John Urry, in his book The Tourist Gaze (Sage, 1990)
October 23: CULTURAL HERITAGE AND CULTURAL HERITAGE TOURISM
Required readings you need to have done before coming to class for this session:
• “What is heritage” by Rodney Harrison. In The Politics of Heritage, edited by Rodney
Harrison, pp. 5-41. (Manchester University Press, 2010)
• Chapter 1 in Heritage Tourism by Dallen J. Timothy and Stephen W. Boyd (Pearson,
2003)
October 30: UNESCO’s WORLD HERITAGE SYSTEM
Required readings you need to have done before coming to class for this session:
• “World Heritage” by Ian Donnachie. In Understanding the Politics of Heritage, edited by
Rodney Harrison, The Open University, 2010. Selected pages
• “UNESCO and Heritage: Global Doctrine, Global Practice” by Yudhishthir Raj Isar. In
Heritage, Memory and Identity, edited by Helmut Anheier and Yudhishthir Raj Isar, pp.
39-52. Sage, London.
• UNESCO World Heritage criteria
November 6: HISTORY AND CULTURE OF PERU
Topic 1: A survey of the history of Peru from ancient times to the present day.
Required readings
• U.S. State Department summary of Peruvian history
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• Lonely Planet summary of Peruvian history
• See last page of this syllabus for some brief summaries
RECOMMENDED (not required) READING FOR THIS SESSION:
• Peru. Society and Nationhood in the Andes, by Peter Flindell Klarén (Oxford, 2000) – it
is an excellent history of Peru. ($44.95 amazon.com)
• A new e-book version of the master narrative, The Conquest of the Incas by John
Hemming, is now on Amazon and Apple. The link is: http://amzn.com/B008LMLMZG
Price: $9.99. This is a revised and expanded text, fully updated to 2012.
Topic 2: In class discussion of Assignment 2 results.
November 13: TOURISM, POLITICS, AND SOCIETY IN CUZCO
Topic 1: Tourism: cultures in contact; the “tourist bubble” phenomenon. Potential impact of
mass tourism on societies in general, on Peru in particular based on the knowledge garnered to
date—intercultural contact, economic development. The politics of heritage. The concept of
contested cultural heritage.
Required readings you need to have done before coming to class for this session:
• 2006 The Historic District of Cusco as an Open-Air Site Museum, by Helaine
Silverman. In Archaeological Site Museums in Latin America, edited by Helaine
Silverman, pp. 159-183 . University Press of Florida, Gainesville.
• 2002 Touring Ancient Times, by Helaine Silverman. American Anthropologist 104 (3):
881-902.
Topic 2: In class discussion of Assignment 3 results.
Topic 3: The representation of Peru in popular media. We will watch and critique selections from
these movies: Secret of the Incas, Max Is Missing in Peru The Motorcycle Diaries
December 4: GETTING READY FOR PERU
Topic 1: In class discussion of Assignment 4 results.
Topic 2: Ethnographic methods.
Required readings you need to have done before coming to class for this session:
• Stephen Schensul et al. Essential Ethnographic Methods (AltaMira, 1999) – selected
pages
• “Stakeholders and Community Participation” by Sue Millar. In Managing World
Heritage Sites edited by Anna Leask and Alan Fyall (Elsevier, Amsterdam), pp. 38-54.
Topic 3: Basic training for the Peru experience: what to expect, what to pack, ethnocentrism and
objectivity.
SEE NEXT PAGE FOR TRAVEL ITINERARY IN PERU
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GLBL 298 on-site in PERU
PERU TRAVEL ITINERARY
Tues, January 1
Helaine meets students in Chicago O’Hare Airport. Fly to Lima from Chicago via Miami.
AA 1388 (4:25 p.m. from ORD to MIA, arriving 8:30 p.m.)
AA 2153 (11:55 p.m. from MIA to LIM, arriving 5:30 a.m.)
OVERNIGHT ON PLANE.
Wed, January 2
Go through immigration and customs. Change money at airport. Walk out of international end of
airport to domestic end of airport. Queue for flight to Cuzco with the luggage with which you
arrived in Peru. LAN 2075, departing Lima at 9:45 a.m., arriving Cuzco 11:05 a.m. Check into
hotel. REST. Then, Helaine gives students an orientation to Cuzco. Students will tour Cuzco on
new red bus or wood tram bus (catch on Plaza de Armas). Students will eat on their own today
because of the altitude – eat lightly; some of you may not be hungry. Don’t drink alcohol. Don’t
eat anything greasy. Helaine will recommend nearby restaurants for those who wish to eat
something.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine. (Goal: What are your first impressions of Cuzco? How do your
impressions compare with what you read previously about Cuzco?)
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OVERNIGHT IN CUZCO
Th, January 3
Ancient Cuzco
Morning: Sacsayhuaman – Kenko – Tambo Machay – Puca Pucara
Afternoon: We work with a map of ancient Cuzco. Students learn about Haukaypata, where
palaces were in historic district (such as Kusikancha), calle Loreto, Acllahuasi, ScotiaBank’s
wall on Maruri, Calle San Agustin, Hatun Rumiyoq, go inside Coricancha/Santo Domingo; visit
Museo Inka (included in the Boleto Turístico), etc.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: What tourist behavior did
you observe? What do you think of the local organization of tourism? Did you see Peruvians at
the places we visited?) and the project students will do the next day (January 4).
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OVERNIGHT IN CUZCO
F, January 4
Morning: Colonial Cuzco. We look at churches and districts: enter these churches: Cathedral,
Compañia, San Blas Church. Look at San Blas district (including talleres de los hermanos
Mendivil). Look at the following from the outside: La Merced, San Pedro, San Cristobal. I will
take the students into the Hotel Monasterio. We will look at other casonas coloniales that are
hotels from the outside. We will look at Casa Garcilaso from the outside and I will tell the
students about Garcilaso de la Vega. While walking around Cuzco Helaine will point out the
projects of Mayor Daniel Estrada.
Afternoon: Students do their projects. Helaine is available to help students.
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7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: Did tourists at the religious
sites seem different from those at the ancient sites? How was this tourism organized?) and your
projects.
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OVERNIGHT IN CUZCO
Sat, January 5
All day in the Sacred Valley: Chinchero, Maras (stop to look at stone doorways with carved
lintels), Moray, short hike through salineras down to valley, visit chichería. End day in
Ollantaytambo.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: How would you compare
urban life to rural life? Is tourism directly benefitting local people?)
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OVERNIGHT IN OLLANTAYTAMBO
Sun, January 6
All day in Ollantaytambo: the ruins, spectacular Bajada de Reyes celebration; look at the ancient
occupied town
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: Who is participating in
Bajada de Reyes and in what capacity? What conclusions do you reach about the social
organization of Ollantaytambo? Is tourism disrupting town life in Ollantaytambo or enhancing it
in some way?)
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OVERNIGHT IN OLLANTAYTAMBO
Mon, January 7
Spectacular train ride from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu.We have lunch at the buffet then go
to site of Machu Picchu for our guided tour. Students must be aware of last bus down or they
may wish to walk down to town on the trail.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: How is tourism to Machu
Picchu organized? Who visits the site? What is the town below the site like?)
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OVERNIGHT IN AGUAS CALIENTES (town at the base of Machu Picchu)
Tues, January 8
Depart Machu Picchu/Aguas Calientes on the 8:53 a.m. train to Ollantaytambo. Upon arrival in
Ollantaytambo we are picked up by our own tour bus. Fabulous day of exploration
from Ollantaytambo to Urubamba, Taller Seminario, to Pisaq. End day in Cuzco.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: How is tourism affecting the
Sacred Valley? How does it vary in each place? Who is participating in tourism and who isn’t?)
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OVERNIGHT IN CUZCO
Wed, January 9
Day trip through countryside south of Cuzco with guide to see colonial churches and towns,
spectacular Inca and pre-Inca ruins: Andahuaylillas, Raqchi, Rumicolca, maybe Huarco and San
Jerónimo. En route out of Cuzco let’s stop at Oropesa to buy bread.
7 p.m.: discussion with Helaine about what we’ve seen today (Goal: How is each place
organized for tourism? Who is participating or not participating in tourism?)
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B, L, D [dinner is our despedida]
OVERNIGHT IN CUZCO
Thursday, January 10
We leave Cuzco and fly back to Lima: right now it may be Lan Peru #2115, departing Cuzco at
9:45 a.m., arriving in Lima at 11:10 a.m. We go to hotel in Miraflores. Students have the
afternoon and evening free. Helaine will give students suggestions of what to do. Note
assignment on page 5, which is due tomorrow.
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OVERNIGHT IN LIMA
Friday, January 11
All day in Lima. Our bus takse us to Plaza San Martin and waits for us.
9 a.m. Helaine walks with the students down Jr. de la Unión from Plaza San Martin to Plaza de
Armas, past Desamparados and past San Francisco to city wall. This is to get a sense of the
historic district. The bus picks us up and takes us to Barranco where we have lunch and look
around this lovely seaside district with wonderful vernacular architecture. Then the bus takes us
to Larco Mar shopping center, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and I walk back with the students
to the hotel through the classic suburban Miraflores district. (We have day room at hotel).
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6 P.M. – CHECK OUT OF HOTEL.
6:30 P.M. - TRANSFER TO AIRPORT
Late evening: depart Peru on American #918. This is an overnight flight, departing at
11:55 a.m.
Sat, January 12
The flight arrives in Miami around 5:30 a.m. Go through U.S. immigration and customs.
Transfer to Chicago flight, arriving in O’Hare Airport before noon.
Students: the first day of the Spring 2013 semester is Monday, January 14.
SEE NEXT PAGE FOR OTHER RECOMMENDED READINGS
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OTHER READINGS YOU MIGHT FIND OF INTEREST
novel: The Next One To Fall by Hilary Davidson (Forge, 2012). Travel writer Lily Moore has
been persuaded by her closest friend, photographer Jesse Robb, to visit Peru with him. Jesse is
convinced that the trip will lure Lily out of her dark mood, but Lily is haunted by betrayal and
loss. At Machu Picchu, the famous Lost City of the Incas, they discover a woman clinging to life
at the bottom of an ancient stone staircase. Just before the woman dies, she tells Lily the name of
the man who pushed her. When the local police investigate, the forensic evidence they find
doesn’t match what Lily knows. Unable to accept the official ruling of accidental death, Lily
hunts down the wealthy man who was the dead woman’s traveling companion and discovers a
pattern of dead and missing women in his wake. Obsessed with getting justice for these women,
Lily sets in motion a violent chain of events that will have devastating consequences.
Highly recommended
• David Lodge’s 1991 novel Paradise News (any edition). It is a brilliant exposition of tourism
and the anthropology of tourism, addressing these comically but with academically valid
insight.
Contemporary Issues of Tourism
• Jane Henrici, “Trading Culture: Tourism and Tourist Art in Pisac, Peru,” in Tourism and
Cultural Conflicts. edited by Mike Robinson and Priscilla Boniface (New York: CABI
Publishers, 1999), pp. 161 – 180.
• “The Revenge of the Incas,” The Economist 331 (21 May 1994), p. 48.
• Dean MacCannell. “Staged Authenticity Today” pp. 13-40 and “Tourist Agency” pp.
196-210, in his book, The Ethics of Sightseeing (University of California Press, 2011)
• John Urry and Jonas Larsen. The Tourist Gaze 3.0 (Sage, London), Chapter 1 –
“Theories”, pp 1-30.
• Tourism at World Heritage Cultural Sites published by the World Tourism Organization,
2004. pp. 21-100.
• “Converting local spaces into heritage places” by Michael DiGiovine in his book, The
Heritage-scape (Lexington Books, 2009), pp. 187-213.
Incas
• Lucy C. Salazar, “Machu Picchu: Mysterious Royal Estate in the Cloud Forest,” in
Richard L. Burger and Lucy C. Salazar, eds., Machu Picchu: Unveiling the Mystery of
the Inca (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2004), pp. 21 – 47.
• Jean-Pierre Protzen, “Inca Quarrying and Stonecutting,” Journal of the Society of
Architectural Historians 44, no. 2 (1985), pp. 161 – 182.
• Carolyn Dean, “The Inka Married the Earth: Integrated Outcrops and the Making of
Place.” Art Bulletin 89. No. 3 (Sept. 2007), pp. 502 -518.
Colonial Period
• Sabine MacCormack, “Art in a Missionary Context: Images from Europe and the Andes
in the Church of Andahuaylillas near Cuzco,” in The World Made Image (Boston:
Isabella Steward Gardner Museum, 1998), pp. 103 – 126.
• Pedro de Leon Portocarrero, “Description of Lima, Peru (early-seventeenth century)” and
“The Church and Monastery of San Franciso,” in Colonial Spanish America: A
Documentary History (Wilmington: Scholarly Resources, 1998), pp. 165 – 177.
• Maya Stanfield-Mazzi, “Shifting Ground: Elite Sponsorship and the Cult of Christ of the
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•
•
Earthquakes in Eightieth-Century Peru,” Hispanic Research Journal 8, no. 5 (Dec. 2007),
pp. 445 – 465.
Carolyn Dean, “Creating a Ruin in Colonial Cuzco: Sacsahuaman and what was made of
it.” Andean Past 5 (1998), pp. 161 – 183.
Tom Cummins, “A Tale of Two Cities: Cuzco, Lima and the Construction of Colonial
Representation,” in Converging Cultures: Art and Identity in Spanish America (New
York: Brooklyn Museum and Henry N. Abrams, 1996), pp. 157 – 170.
Art
•
•
•
Carolyn Dean, “The Trouble with (the term) Art,” Art Journal (Summer 2006), pp. 25 –
32.
Esther Pasztory, “Andean Aesthetics,” in Thinking with Things: Toward a New Vision of
Art (Austin: University of Texas Press, 2005), pp. 197 – 207.
Rebecca Stone Miller, “Introduction,” in Art of the Andes from Chavín to Inca (London:
Thames and Hudson, 2002), pp. 9 – 16.
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