The Pillars Of Hercules
AYAMONTE
And Its Parador
“So immense—oh sea!—is the sky,
Only because it is the same everywhere,
Can the soul think it is so small…
Eternally nailed to the eternal
By the very stars…
How like refugees we feel
Under its brief, definite infinity!”
Juan Ramón Jiménez
P
or thus wished the gods and demigods; because the idols and
warring heroes decided it to be so—all these and other
landscapes were born of all mothers, and of all wars. In other words, born
from all the ambitions of all human beings present forever and evermore.
And all, or almost all, in an ambitious race for power and dominance;
perhaps much more politically driven than nationalistically or
religiously… Also, for economic reasons—all empires have been avid
adventurers, endlessly thirsty for power and property. Such as Pizarro or
Christopher Columbus... These Mediterranean waters, were, during
centuries past, the Great Lake of Western Culture.
To all our Iberian coastlines, people
brought cultures, arts, languages, laws,
and customs. But there was also rejection; and wars of defense, against
strange and foreign invaders. At last, and inevitably, a shared peace would
be agreed upon, convenient to both sides. Thus our landscapes would
more or less be split up between the Mediterranean orient all the way to
the most dangerous of frontiers—the Pillars of Hercules.
But here and there, some of them exchanged booties: spices for metals,
crops for slaves…
Those in the early days, when Phoenicians, then Greeks, Romans, and
Arabs all took turns invading, when finally Christian or christianized,
everyone shared a common bond between the ruling deities, “....God made
the world, but with Allah’s help” (Arab Saying)
According to history, these Western areas were the fruit of an virtually
aggression-free pact convenient shared living, only apparently convincing.
Such pacts were sufficiently juicy for both sides. Thus, almost all earthly
borders could be drawn.
For a long time, such a shared land was clearly an advantage for all
parts… although, as time went by, the scales turned out to be unequal—
the large Christian majority would eventually win.
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
1
In The Beginning
Of All Time
Let not the traveler get confused—these “finisterres” (end of the Earth,
in Latin) Mediterranean areas are the “Pillars of Hércules.” A pleasant and
unavoidable frontier. In the days of yore, a difficult pass to cross, today it
is an indissoluble intercontinental bridge. It turns out to be the easiest
transit areas between Europe and Africa—so close, only a dozen of
kilometers away—temptingly but also deceivingly close frontiers, defined
and controlled by compulsive procedures imposed by repressive
governments—on both sides of the Straits.
n those days of the past, slowly yet inexorably, civilizations
would arise, eventually giving birth to cultures as refined as the
fine-tuning of a high-definition musical instrument.
Next to this, the reality of the so-called Reconquista should be well
explained. We must never forget: in half or more than half of these
“Hispanias,” we have Arab blood and souls. What is Andalusia? Is not a
complex mixture as well, an excellent mélange of intrepid crusaders, with
the essential touch of Jews and Mohammedans?
Not too long after, a cultural explosion supported and favored by
skilled artisans, architects, and numerous other artists, always carefully
obeying the canon. Thus bridges, aqueducts, gardens, irrigation canals,
and countless customs were born: the leather and textile industries, along
with arts and crafts...
Let the traveler be reminded that the Iberian Peninsula is made up of
many other cultures as well—tolerant, yet softly invasive. Each and every
one of us is a descendent of these local and harmonious communities. A
new term —“coexistence”— would be created to describe all those
countless years of common history.
Ayamonte turned out to be a rather efficient launch pad, a foreboding
of future cultures. Around this part of the Mediterranean, “almadrabas”,
or hunting and fishing techniques, were first tried out; to this day they are
still used to capture all kinds of fish.
And to this day this is how things have been. Let us not forget; that
each and every one of us belongs to the same stock. Otherwise, how could
we ever explain the excellent coexistence of customs, passed on by means
of craftsmanship, rites, music, tastes and smell that persists to this day?
I
Long before the Christian era, these remote regions were inhabited by
the people of “Tartessus”. Those Tartessian invaders built outstanding
cities, some along the seaboard or in the hinterland, around the
circumference of the Aracena Sierra.
Merely glancing at our own language may we notice how wise Arabic
terminology has permeated everyday speech. Take, for example, alicatar
(to cover with tiles), a fundamental technique used to finish off magical
and masterly walls.
Those warring sailors fished—often intending to pillage—along the rich
coastlines of what is known nowadays as the “Coto de Doñana”. They
used to prudently sail along the coast. And from these coastlines, they
would navigate all the way to Northern Europe to trade tin and different
weapons, always for defense purposes.
Or the yeserías technique, that immortal filigree that still persists on the
Cordoba Mosque and in countless southern localities.
And, inevitably, the mudéjar style, which dots and miraculously
contaminates many Castilian lands: Salamanca, Zamora, Tordesillas, Toro
and other countless landscapes...
The Tartessians discovered the great value of this land’s mining
potential, especially its copper ore, at that time generous and abundant.
Thus, they would discover bronze—the mixture of tin and copper—highly
prized by Mediterranean peoples. Used mainly for military purposes,
bronze was also used for utensils, pots, vessels, weapons...
Next to and in the middle of this all, the Andalusian Baroque, whose
conquistador ambitions and tastes cannot be hidden. There lies Écija, the
most Sevillian and Baroque town of our Peninsula. Or Cardona, or Lepe...
Finally, this prehistoric era turned out to be quite decisive: they built
around Huelva, more than one citadel, with clear defense purposes.
Behind the fenced wall, artists and artisans came from all over. A
wondrous battle would soon occur, however, enticed by tasty ambitions to
dominate, around the 3rd century of our era. Finally, General Scipio the
African would open up and pave the way for the imperial Roman armies
to come into the Peninsula. The arrival of the Roman invaders would
bring laws and light which would open new European horizons.
Or Linares, spine of the frontier. And, immediately after, Baeza y
Úbeda, with their radically peculiar designs, languages, and customs:
they wish to set themselves apart as haughty olive-growers.
“To er mundo no puede nacer en “Cai” “Not ever’one can be born in
Cadiz.” It is a fact that multiple Andalusias exist. Cadiz is also known
as “Cai,” a town of proud people, and it is not as coincidence that the
Constitution was born there, by miraculous luck.
About one thousand years before our era the Phoenicians
appeared along these Mediterranean shores, sailors seeking to
pillage, and thirsty for new cultures —on the hunt for
Ayamonte participated and participates in a similar
way. These are a rebel people, but never rebellious.
“...We are very unique, our own people...” This is a
common feeling shared by all. But let not the
traveler be confused: Ayamonte is here and
there, beyond. It is an Atlantic city and,
without choice, a frontier city. It has its own
linguistic nuances, sometimes intentionally
confusing.
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
2
lifestyles as strange as enticing to them. Thus, the Phoenicians would
invade this Peninsula with their rather notably competitive trade— all was
sold and all was bought. Simultaneously, the invading troops knew how to
obtain excellent profits from the almost inexhaustible mines of the
Ríotintos Onubenses.
This and other people were visited and invaded by the Carthagenians
and the Phoenicians. Simultaneously there were trials, wars, and guerrilas,
as well as plundering and banditry. Often, Celtic peoples, highly aggressive
and quite greedy for conquest, would also appear.
According to history, the majority of people flocked to pilfer these
regions. The Romans, however, installed ingenious mining gadgets—often
at their own or their slaves’ lives’ risk.
Towards the end of the 3rd century before Christ, Carthagenians and
Romans would contend their control over the Iberian Peninsula, plagued
of course by myths, legends, and people who communicated difficultly.
Inexorably, ambitious and greedy wars of power arose—in the beginning
these were naval battles. Finally, although temporarily, the Carthagenians
appropriated themselves with the most appetizing booty of that era.
Another element exists, however, which makes Ayamonte a special and
magical place and grabs every visitor’s attention: its light. People call it the
“Light of the Gates of Spain,” and, according to the townsfolk, it is the
reason whereby the city has had excellent artists.
Ayamonte can indeed be proud of its artistic heritage. The Church of
San Salvador and San Francisco, both from the 15th centuries, are
magnificently preserved in mudéjar style.
For those traveler friends, who wish to bring back memories of their
travels, Ayamonte offers almost unimaginable surprises, alongside amazing
craftsmanship.
If you always dreamed of having a model ship, this is the perfect place
and time to find one —just like the very fishing boats used today in these
seas.
Ayamonte has always been proud of its maritime past, of having given
birth to brave sailors; they say that Ayamonte was the city of the province
of Huelva that contributed the highest number of local born people to the
conquest of the Americas —expert pilots, religious men, colonizers,
merchants...
If we were to mention just one of those brave sailors, many would agree
on Rodrigo de Xerés. It was Columbus who sent Rodrigo to the Indies; he
named him ambassador, and handed him some letters by the Catholic
Kings to have an interview with the Grand Khan. But according to history,
he never managed to have the interview with that famous figure. On his
journeys, however, he ran into some men who held a burning ember in
their hand and sucked on it while inhaling its smoke. Thus tobacco was
discovered, and Rodrigo de Xerés was considered its discoverer—the man
who brought it to Europe, learning how to produce it and smoke it.
They also say that, despite this, he suffered imprisonment under the
Holy Inquisition on account of his wife, who reported him to the
authorities claiming that he spat the demon from his mouth and nose.
Parador De Ayamonte:
La Luz De Las Puertas
Del Mundo
“Above sings the bird
And below sings the water
-Above and below
My soul opens upThe bird rocks the star
And the water rocks the flower.
-Above and below does my soul open up
Juan Ramón Jiménez
T
he Parador is located in one of the most populated areas of the
province of Huelva. No doubt, it is famous for its gorgeous
beaches.
The site where the Parador is found today had always been a
strategic place where once a castle lay. From there, the mouth of the
River Guadiana could be controlled, right on the border with Portugal
and Spain. Everybody who visits the seaside and riverside towns
appreciates their panoramic vistas.
The 16th century Chapels of Saint Sebastian (San Sebastián) is
the result of a magnificent blend of Gothic and mudéjar science, art, and
craftsmanship. On a peaceful walk through Ayamonte, one may enjoy,
without a doubt, the baroque touch that identifies this unique town.
Various buildings along the way belong to the 17th and 18th centuries,
such as the Gothic Santa Clara, or others in baroque and, unforgettably,
the mudéjar style.
On Huelva street, the so-called “Casa Grande” stands out. No doubt,
the Palace of the Marquis of Ayamonte, famous for his desire to
separate Andalusia from Spain, also stands out. Ayamonte’s mausoleum,
preserved on the “punta del Moral,” indeed may boast to be quite ancient.
Legitimately, the people of the area are proud of and boast Ayamonte’s
unique baroque religious imagination. It is important to note the
importance and fame of its Holy Week as well. Of high value is the Christ
of the Good Death (de la Buena Muerte), of the Martínez Montañés
school.
To the lovers of good painting, Ayamonte offers many excellent painters’
studios, such as Aguilera’s, Oliva’s and Borrego’s, to name a few. And don’t
forget that light itself seems to be the teacher of a few of them.
There is a large fraction of travelers, however, that loves to buy
gastronomical souvenirs for their friends and family. In Ayamonte one
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
3
never to be made with fish not from these waters; always to enjoy the
company of herbs such as cilantro or caraway.
The authentic native of Huelva and its coasts will know that the most
flavorful fish of these waters are fished and eaten. It is true; however,
perhaps certain distracted tourists will not have realized that all around
this area excellent rice is grown, and therefore unique rice dishes are
cooked and served.
must
not forget
Preserves and
Salted Meat or Fish.
Those who are experts claim
that one must especially note the Dried
Fish Eggs, as well as the Tuna Mojama
(Dried Tuna), true supreme delicacy of Ayamonte’s cuisine.
Those who like good food are usually recommended by the local people
to go to the musically-sounding restaurant “La Flor de la Canela.” At
any rate, it is always a good idea to ask the local people for advice, as
people in Ayamonte are friendly, helpful, and pleasant folk. We do not
want to and cannot stop mentioning the fact that until relatively recently,
Ayamonte did not have the magnificent bridge it does today. It was rather
inconvenient for the boats crossing—waste of time, long waits; but it also
had a certain charm, such as meeting people, bargaining. And without
losing one’s place in order, going on the ferry to the neighboring country.
Today nothing is the same, there aren’t even border customs anymore...
Seas And Coasts Of Cult
And Occult Gastronomy
A
long almost all of these coastlines, there are those who prefer to
stick simply to those exquisite and filling dishes—excellent
without a doubt—that are also part of the traditional cuisine. The
Parador of Ayamonte, in fact offers the following traditional dishes: Like
the cuisine at the Parador de Ayamonte, which features and offers: rice
soup with mint, rice with cod and Río Tinto partridge.
For one must remember that at the beginning of the last century, many
rice cooks from Valencia moved out here to the salt marshes of the
Guadalquivir. So much that Sevilla turned into the prime producer of rice in
the whole Peninsula. The lowlands of the Guadiana river as well, in
Badajoz... or the Mediterranean regions. Excellent qualities and varieties of
rice are cultivated in Badajoz as well.
THE SECRET RECIPES
These shores, mountains, and lowlands offer recipes—much more than
simple rice dishes—that are filled with unfathomable mysteries, brought
over from Valencia’s coasts, such as:
RICE SOUP WITH MINT
Prepared using onions sprinkled with garlic cloves, finely chopped, with
a little bit of oil. Some pieces of calamari are added and it is all sautéed
with tomatoes. Whenever it is ready, the rice is added along with the mint;
immediately covered with some fish stock. It is cooked for 10 to 15
minutes.
RICE WITH COD
Rice with cod is a simple dish that requires a patient and delicate
preparation. After a couple hours—according to the size, change cod water
frequently—and sauté the onion with enough garlic cloves. Douse
everything with olive oil and fry in a pan until the onion turns clear.
Whenever ready, add the cod and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Then, add
the rice, and having allowing it to take up some of the flavor, add the
water, until it reaches a boil. Allow to cook at a low heat for about 15
minutes.
AYAMONTE TORTILLA (OMELET)
Let us not forget the “Tortilla de Ayamonte”, made with gizzards
and kidneys, and best when cooked lightly. Or the “Coquitos de
Huelva” (Shellfish), simply yet wisely prepared: once the onions turn
golden brown, the coquitos are floured and fried. Then a sauce is
prepared with the onions, to taste, and everything is cooked together in a
casserole. Cooked to the diner’s taste. Or the “Salsa Playera” Beachstyle Sauce —a sort of
bouillabaisse,
Ingredients for four persons: 1/4 kilo of flour, 2 eggs, 4 cloves of garlic,
1/4 kilo of shrimp, a pinch of yeast, 1 onion, preferably a fresh one,
parsley, salt, and olive oil. Peel the shrimp and boil them quickly. Save the
water you cooked them in. Chop the garlic, onion, and parsley. Mix the
shrimp’s cooking water with the flour, the yeast, the eggs, onion, garlic,
parsley and shrimp turning it into a homogeneous mixture and adding salt
when necessary. In a pan, heat up the oil well, and begin to make little
portions of the mixture which we will then fry. Each spoonful corresponds
to one omelet (tortilla).
NOTE: Instead of shrimp, on may use bacalao (dried cod), keeping in
mind that one must first soak the fish for 12 hours in water before
cooking.
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
4
CHOCOS (BABY SQUID) HUELVA STYLE
Place a finely chopped onion in a pan; once it is golden brown, place
the squid, stuffed with its own tentacles, on top of the onions. Sprinkle
with flour. Prepare, on the side, a half a kilo of tomatoes, with onion,
parsley, and a little breadcrumbs and some chopped ham. Once the sauce
is well cooked, pour over the squid, add their ink with a little water, and
place back on the fire. Cook slowly on low heat. Serve with croutons.
BEACH STYLE SOUP
A kind of “bouillabaisse” made using only local fish. Usually garnished
with cilantro or caraway.
RÍO TINTO PARTRIDGE
Roast the partridge and keep a cabbage with big white and green leaves
handy, scalded with salt; some chicken broth, meat and ham from Huelva,
and a handful of fine herbs. The cabbage leaves are smeared with butter
and the partridge is covered with the ingredients. They say around here
that the partridge tastes better when eaten alongside a wine from the area.
Excursions: Pleasures And
Juicy Reflections
n Vila Real de Santo Antonio, the traffic was maddening. The
traveler, who set out to savor calmly the city’s routes, found
himself forced to go into the labyrinth of one-way streets, a kind
of snakes and ladders game with lots of falls and few prizes.
I
(José Saramago. Journey to Portugal)
On the margin of arts, crafts, cuisines, beaches, and other pleasurable
walking areas, the traveler will realize that he or she is on the limit of all
Europe. The so-called Line of Portugal did not happen by chance nor is it
a miracle. The decision was as simple as it was complicated in the
political sense. It was the consequence of the dealing out of those worlds,
monopolized by the Spanish and the Portuguese. The decision would
eventually be favored and shared by governments and governors,
laboriously designed on both sides under papal blessings and auspices. It
was defined thus in the Tordesillas Treaty. The area was too ambitiously
sought after by governments and countries with limited capacities—
economical and military—to manage such large territories. Much more
than territory was taken from Spain in those days—they drastically cut
off all her Atlantic borders; from Huelva to the borders of Galicia in the
north...
Curiously, only by chance did the line of Tordesillas come to coincide
with the so-called Silver Route; under the Roman Empire, communication
routes would be opened between two lands always connected like sisters,
by language, customs, cultures...
The should inquisitive traveler have, then, the opportunity to cross the
Peninsula more or less along the ancestral “Silver Route,” he or she
would notice outstanding and confused panoramic vistas between both
border towns. Just like the various Huelvas filled to the brim in
Ayamonte and divided only by the banks of the river. Or in the lands of
Badajoz, Spanish capital only one kilometer from our Portuguese
brethren. We may say the same for Ciudad Rodrigo, from whose handsome
and historical Parador we may look over Portuguese lands. The same
happens in Zamora, an impossible frontier between people on both sides
of the border. From Toro, for example, the Duero slopes gently but
generously, opening up pleasant views of the Portuguese lowlands.
Approaching Verín, Tuy, the beautiful frontier town. All the above are
capable of sharing lands and seas and customs so close, they are very
difficult to tell apart.
Isla (Island) Cristina
Its main feature is its magnificent and vast beach, with fine sand and an
exceptionally good climate. The most common activities of this town are
related to fishing, as well as important salted meat and fish factories. In
terms of agriculture, they have amazing greenhouse crops, especially
strawberries and citrus fruits.
From the gastronomical point of view: Ray Fish with Sweet Paprika,
Cazón (Dogfish) with Tomato, Baby Squid Eggs, and a large
repertoire that will delight all fish lovers. There is a wide range of pastries
as well: from the typical island cookies, known as “Borregos” to the
“Sultanas” made with coconut and eggs, or “Cocas” like those they
make in Mallorca. The people here are really nice, so don’t feel ashamed to
ask.
The Colombian Route
Palos, La Rábida y Moguer: the three masts of the “Colombian” (as in
Christopher Columbus) maritime adventure. In any one of these areas, the
foreigner will find obvious traces of the days of the Conquista, not so long
ago. The foreigner will run into the lagoons of Las Madres and Palos and
the Estero de Domingo Rubio —together they make up an area above
one thousand hectares.
The Odiel Sea Marshes
Yet there are other alternatives to choose from: if you wish to walk on
the Western shores, on the other side of the Huelva inlet, you will run into
the Natural Park of “Las Marismas de Odiel” (Odiel Sea
Marshes). It has been recognized as a Reserve of the Biosphere. This
turns out to be the second marshland in Huelva province. A total of seven
thousand hectares, it includes the natural reserve parks of the Burro Sea
Marshes and the “Middle” Islands. Don’t forget that these sea marshes
are also the cozy resting point for many protected migrating bird species.
Punta Umbría
Around this area, rises Punta Umbría; with its unique beaches of
ancient stock. Not even the passing of time has managed to erase
its customs. Born as a meat and fish salting industry,
those arrogant Romans came over here as
invaders. Remember that in these areas
people prepared that
surprising mixture
—garum— made by
fish leftovers,
processed into a
paste which was
avidly appreciated by
the Roman colonizers.
Centuries later, in the
19th century, this same
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
5
area was discovered and occupied by a bunch of English colonizers —
industrious businessmen— enticed by the juicy benefits proceeding from the
mining business, rather abundant at the time in the Río Tinto mine deposits
and other mine beds of the area.
Thus Punta Umbría would be repeatedly and gratefully invaded by
arrogant yet qualified invaders; they set up summer colonial getaways
whose vestiges we can still appreciate today. We can also opt for a more
unknown alternative: a boat service known as “canoes” transit these
Huelva inlets in many distinct areas. If the passerby wished to, he or she
should keep in mind that around the Odiel Sea Marshes there is a lot of
tasty shopping to be done in the fishing port area; in the Lonja (fish
market), absolutely guaranteed fresh seafood, daily.
those people with an interest in history, they should visit the Provincial
Museum.
Walking around this charming city that still retains its country air, we
realize that its inhabitants maintain a close relationship with each other.
They are quite friendly and they are willing to explain anything a tourist
might ask them about their land. These are people with good character
and quite willing to help out.
Walking about one will run into the Cathedral of San Pedro, from
the 18th century. From the Renaissance, one will find the Church la
Concepción and the Hermitage of la Cinta. The Convent of the
Augustinian Mothers is quite interesting, from the 18th century as well.
It still has a mudéjar style patio.
It is interesting to stroll around the Worker’s Neighborhoods of
Queen Victoria (Barrio Obrero Reina Victoria) from the 19th
century; it is a good example of the
English did as they exploited the
mining area and transformed the
local look with their Victorian
architecture. The modern Congress
Palace (Palacio de Congresos),
a Victorian building formerly known
as Columbus House (Casa Colón) is
another site of interest.
El Portil
This is also a very important and
protected natural sanctuary.
Westward lies the easily accessible—
and haughty—whitewashed town of
El Rompido. It boasts fishing folk
and a green environment.
Huelva: Capital And
Captain
The city is born of the confluence
of the two rivers, Odiel and Tinto—
both run throughout the province
and die together in the Atlantic Ocean. Huelva boasts, understandably so,
to be one of the most ancient cities of our country—indeed, the
archaeological ruins in the city’s historical district are proof of this. For
If the traveler is a market
aficionado, then he or she should not
miss the “Mercado (Market) del
Carmen”, un excellent fish and seafood show. If you prefer tapas and
hanging out, your will find a grand variety of places all over the city. Just
ask—you will get all kinds of directions and recommendations. Around the
Huelva port area, don’t forget to try the Grilled Crayfish or the Boiled
Shrimp. And don’t forget the “Gurumelos” (Wild Mushrooms) nor
“Habas Enzapatás…” (Broad Bean Dish), nor “Coquinas”
(Clams). It’s best to let these friendly hospitable people recommend what’s
best. In this city, friendliness and charm are still in style.
Whenever you’re ready for lunch or dinner, don’t forget our wonderful
seasonal vegetables, as well some amazing Iberian pork ham— surely your
palate will never forget it!
Parador de Ayamonte
El Castillito, s/n. 21400 Ayamonte (Huelva)
Tel.: +34 959 32 07 00 - Fax: +34 959 02 20 19
e-mail: [email protected]
Reservation Center
Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España)
Tel.: +34 902 54 79 79 - Fax: +34 902 52 54 32
www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected]
Text: Juan G. D’Atri y Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar
AYAMONTE AND ITS PARADOR
6