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LESSON THREE
© Leigh Beisch (photo from WASHOKU page 146)
chirashi-zushi (scattered sushi, decorated with egg shreds)
Thin Omelet (recipe on page 122)
Usu Tamago Yaki
薄玉子焼き
Thin omelets are used in many Japanese dishes, most often sliced into narrow ribbons
and scattered over sushi rice (above) or chilled noodles, or to wrap or enclose other
foods. The classic technique for making these crepe-like omelets is flipping them with a
single chopstick -- a skill that admittedly takes a bit of practice to master. But, once you
have, you will find lots of ways to use the omelets (and you’ll find the same
chopstick-flipping technique makes blini and crepes, too!).
Thin omelets can be made in an ordinary round skillet:
Or, in a square or rectangular tamago yaki nabe:
non-stick (left)
tin-lined copper (right)
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LESSON THREE
For those with little or no experience in thin omelet making, I strongly recommend using
a small (5-6 inch diameter is easiest to control) non-stick surfaced skillet. Thick omelets
– a separate lesson will be devoted to them next year – are difficult (though not
impossible) to shape in a round pan. If you will be buying a rectangular skillet (in
anticipation of making thick, rolled omelets), a non-stick one about 5 by 7 inches is best.
When buying a rectangular pan, try to find one that has a sloped edge furthest from the
handle (this makes it a bit easier to flip the layers when making a rolled omelet).
BASIC PROPORTIONS & PROCEDURES:
Several extra large or jumbo-sized eggs will easily make 4 or 5 circlular omelets or 3 or
4 rectangular sheets. Some liquid needs to be added (usually dashi stock and/or sake)
to break the viscosity of the eggs. Use 3-4 tablespoons liquid for every 2 or 3 eggs.
The eggs need to be seasoned, with both salt (brightens color, retards spoilage) and
sugar (mellows salt, retards spoilage), though the amount can be adjusted to suit your
own taste.
Depending upon the use of the final sheets, the intensiity of color and tensile strength
can also be altered. Adding a few extra drops of stock with lighten the color
considerably; it will also “stretch” the mixture to yield more sheets.
If the sheets will wrap other foods, you can strengthen them by adding a thin cornstarch
paste (1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water) to the seasoned egg
mixture. A fun-filled example is making “kimono” robes for edible dolls shaped from
chirashi-zushi, usually served on Hina Matsuri (Doll’s Day… celebrated on March 3)
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LESSON THREE
When mixing the eggs with seasonings use cutting motions rather than
beating/whipping ones. You want to AVOID INCORPORATING AIR as you mix. Begin
by breaking the eggs into a bowl and with chopsticks (or a fork), break the yolks.
Japanese sugar and salt easily dissolves in room temperature eggs; granulated sugar
and table salt (the kind that pours) that is more commonly found in American and
European kitchens can be gritty. It will be best for you to season the liquid (dashi and/or
sake) first, then add the seasoned liquid to the eggs.
COOKING the OMELETS
Even if you are using a pan coated with a non-stick substance, it is best to wipe the pan
with an oiled swab of paper toweling before making each omelet.
Heat your pan over medium heat. Test the temperature with the tip of a chopstick that
has been dipped into the egg mixture. When the chopstick is touched to the surface of
the pan, the egg should sizzle but not color and cling to the chopstick. If the egg sticks
to the pan, it is not hot enough; if the egg browns, the pan is too hot.
When the pan is ready, pour in a measured amount of the egg mixture. If you are using
a small round pan, pour in a scant quarter cup of the egg mixture for each sheet.
If
using a standard rectangular pan, pour in a full quarter cup of the egg mixture for each
omelet. Use smooth, swirling motions to tilt and rotate the pan, allowing the egg mixture
to cover the surface evenly.
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LESSON THREE
Cook over medium heat until the edges of the omelet shrink a bit from the sides of the
pan. Remove the pan from the source of heat and let the egg sheet continue to cook by
retained heat for another 20-30 seconds before flipping it over. Try doing this the
Japanese way: Trace around the edge of the omelet with the tip of a single chopstick to
be sure it is not sticking to the sides of the pan.
Using a combination of twirling and twisting strokes, work the chopstick under the egg
sheet across its width. Lift up (the omelet is now draped across the chopstick), and
invert the omelet.
Allow the other side to dry off (at the most 30 seconds additional exposure to heat), then
flip it out of the skillet. Continue to make the omelets, in the same manner, stacking
them as you go. If need be, when the omelets have cooled enough to handle them
comfortably, shake out any “wrinkles.”
Thin omelet such as these will keep for 5 days, covered and refrigerated. Use them to
decorate chirashi-zushi (recipe: WASHOKU page 147)
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