The guide for the
Spanish Camino
Walking the Camino Francés as a 21st century pilgrim
Marc Grossman
USE THIS GUIDEBOOK TO:

 Set your Camino walking itinerary
 Learn about the history and culture of the regions
 Brush up on your Spanish language skills
 Plan what to pack and how to look after your health
Dedicated to my "media naranja" Yvonne,
and to my "tres hijos"Aaron, Daniel and David, who each one, I trust
will undertake in the fullness of time their own camino.
And my deep gratitude to the caminos in France and Spain for having
given me so much – a debt I will never be able to repay.
••
Published by
Camino Downunder
PO Box 2405 Bondi Junction NSW 1355 Australia
www.caminodownunder.com
Design and layout by Angela Phillips
Design by Angi | www.designbyangi.com.au
Printed and bound by Dashing Design
245 Oxford Street Bondi Junction 2022 Australia
The Guide for the Spanish Camino
Walking the Camino Francés as a 21st century pilgrim
Printed edition 01, July 2009
ISBN 978-0-646-51466-6
Copyright © 2009 Marc Grossman
ii
iii
After two months walking from Le Puy, I reached Santiago de Compostela
in Spain, some 1,500 kilometres away. In many respects, we cannot be too
prepared for a journey such as this.
Through this guide, you (the user of this guide) are very fortunate to undertake
this journey of knowledge and preparation with Marc, before setting out yourself
on one of the great journeys of discovery and self discovery.
Mark England
Sydney, Australia
Camino Adventurer
Le Puy-en-Velay to Santiago de Compostela
(April-June, 2003)
INTRODUCTION
Timeline history of the Camino
6
9
Map & Terrain
02Itinerary
12
03Packing list
22
04 Food guide
36
05Health
46
06 Resources
58
Useful websites
58
Albergue Spanish to English guide
59
Postage services
62
Backpack transport/assistance
65
Statistics
66
07Phrase guide
Pronuciation
70
Lexical list
71
08 Scenarios
iv
Camino Downunder | Copyright © 2009 Marc Grossman
70
ITINERARY
1
PACKING LIST
The concept of pilgrimage
FOOD GUIDE
Spanish and French linguist and teacher, Marc Grossman mixes a deep knowledge
of Europe with his love of trail walking through nature. He has walked the walk
and spoken to many, many people about The Camino. What this Camino
manual provides is an opportunity to benefit from Marc’s knowledge, insights
and experiences.
1
HEALTH
Marc greeted a classroom of students like me that evening and has become
a great friend. I warmed to the Spanish language through his enthusiasm,
generosity of knowledge and genuine ‘joie de vivre‘.
01Introduction
RESOURCES
On a wet, blustery night in 2002, I slowly ventured forward through the thick
Sydney traffic to the outreaches of Sydney’s Eastern suburbs. My appointment
was with an Introductory adult Evening College Spanish language class in
preparation for a journey of a lifetime, The Camino.
iv
PHRASE GUIDE
FOREWORD
FOREWORD
SCENARIOS
 CONTENTS
84
www.caminodownunder.com | Camino Downunder
v
INTRODUCTION
 INTRODUCTION
ITINERARY
the concept of Pilgrimage
Pilgrimage
A classic (religious) definition in 3 parts:
(David M. Gitlitz & Linda Kay Davidson)
However, in the late 20th & early 21st centuries; pilgrimage along the Western European
pilgrimage routes, clearly indicates major variations to past motivations and expectations.
●●
1987 Council of Europe declares the Camino de Santiago as the first European cultural route
●●
1993 El Camino Francés (Camino de Santiago) is placed on the World Heritage list.
In the late 20th century both Australians and Kiwis, especially the young, go on a ‘pilgrimage’
to the Dardanelles in Turkey, wanting and wishing to experience Gallipoli.
And Australians are going in increasing numbers to walk the Kokoda Track where Australian
soldiers (the diggers) desperately fought back the advancing Japanese Imperial Army in Papua
New Guinea in 1942.
However, the term “pilgrim” and “pilgrimage” nowadays are used so loosely in modern popular
cultures and recent traditions such as ‘my yearly summer pilgrimage to Noosa’; or ‘her annual
pilgrimage to Melbourne to visit the family or attend the Melbourne Cup’ etc.
Camino de Santiago
Analysing many written accounts & the pilgrimage statistics; the religious motive
is often mixed in with the “spiritual” aspect (although religious traditions are
ever present and physically represented by the built environment).
Spirituality in our time is related to a non-material view of the world and not necessarily
a commitment to a formal religious construct. To be a spiritual person does not exclude people
who do not attend formal religious events in designated religious places.
HEALTH
“Anthropologists have defined Homo sapiens variously as the animal who laughs, or who makes
tools, or who is capable of self-definition. Humans might also be characterized as the animal who
goes on pilgrimage, for travel to holy places is a near universal phenomenon among our species.”
RESOURCES
Pilgrimage is universal and practised by the
vast majority of human beings.
PHRASE GUIDE
3. A spiritual/religious significance for
the traveler.
SCENARIOS
2. The journey and the destination
and the arriving are equally important.
FOOD GUIDE
PACKING LIST
1. A journey to a place.
It is now NOT uncommon on the Camino Francés to meet a not insignificant number
of non-believers; agnostics and even atheists. Non catholics and even non Christians
are present and in growing numbers.
The German TV personality Hape Kerkeling who broke all book sale records, openly declares
himself agnostic and gay. In March 2008, the German author Hape Kerkeling was featured
in the New York Times in relation to his book concerning the Camino and resulted in making
the Camino unbelievably popular in Germany.
(Continued next page)
vi
Camino Downunder | Copyright © 2009 Marc Grossman
www.caminodownunder.com | Camino Downunder
1
INTRODUCTION
During and after rain the very steep and isolated section between Alto de Erro – approximately
7km before Zubiri, can be extremely muddy and treacherous. Bi-lateral walking poles are a must!
A map of this itinerary, showing an overview of the track in its 34 sections is available on the
Camino Downunder website  www.caminodownunder.com.
FRANCE (Department: Pyrénées-Atlantiques)
Where to stay: 1) Albergue Jacobusfreunde Paderborn | €5.00
 Located very close to the old city. Extremely helpful staff!
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port | Population: 1,500
2) Albergue de Jesús y Maria | €5.00 |  Located in the city.
☎
Local weather: Make sure to check the forecast!
Section 5
(683km to go)
A Demi-pension located along the Route Napoléon NOT the vehicular road into Spain. If you do the
scenically spectacular Route Napoléon, it is very strongly recommended you stay at Refuge-Auberge
Orisson and be guided. In April 2007, people died after losing their way in a snow storm (a white out).
(749km to go)
Puente La Reina/Gares | Population: 2,400
2) Albergue de Puente La Reina | €4.00
Section 6
The Navarra community is governed as an autonomous region with its own parliament (Parlamento
de Navarra) and government (Gobierno de Navarra). As in other autonomous regions in Spain,
health, employment, education, and social services, together with housing, urban development,
and environment protection policies are under the responsibility of its own institutions. Unlike other
regions (and like the Basque Country), it has almost full responsibility for collecting and administering
taxes which must follow the overall guidelines established by the Spanish government but may have
some minor differences.
Day 2: Orisson  Roncesvalles/Orreaga
23km | 346m
Where to stay: 1) Albergue Santiago Apostol | €7.00 per person
 A modern albergue located outside the old city, over the bridge. Facilities include hot showers,
washing machine & dryer and internet.
☎ 05 59 49 13 03 or 06 81 49 79 56
SPAIN NAVARRA (autonomous community)
Section 2
Day 5: Pamplona/Iruña  Puente La Reina/Gares
Things to see: Along the ridge there are 40 windmills harnassing wind power.
The route from Cizur to Puente de la Reina crosses a mountain ridge (Alto de Perdón 700 metres
above sea level – here are now the famous metal silhouette statues) and the descent is rough,
with sharp, loose blue metal type stones (from 5cm to 10 cm in length).
Where to stay: Refuge-Auberge Orisson | €30.00 per person (breakfast & evening meal included)
 Sur le GR 65. Un gîte d’étape (8 km from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port) |  [email protected]
Guide: Mr Jean-Jacques Etchandy
 BP 90013, 64220 Uhart-Cize-Saint-Michel |
Pamplona/Iruña, Capital of Navarra | Population: 187,000
Local weather: 30 year averages –
Daily temperature 10.2° | Average max. 15.5° | Average min. 4.9° | Rainfall 77ml | Days with rain 10.
8km | 163m
Association: Accueil des pèlerins
 39 rue de la Citadelle 64220 Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port |
05 59 37 05 09
Here you can pick up your credencial, get your first stamp, be given a scallop shell with a string (for
a donation) and you complete a questionnaire (for statistical purposes). You will be discouraged from
taking the Route Napoléon. Ignore this advice only if you are going to the Refuge-Auberge Orisson.
22km | 446m
20km | 950m
(661km to go)
22km | 426m
Estella/Lizarra | Population: 13,000
Things to see: Unique Romanesque building Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra.
Built by Sancho el Sabio in the late 12th century. A rare example of Romanesque civil architecture.
Where to stay: Hospital de Peregrinos | €4.00
 Calle La Rúa 50 | Very highly recommended!
Section 7
(640km to go)
Roncesvalles/Orreaga | Population: 30
Day 6: Puente La Reina/Gares  Estella/Lizarra
Day 7: Estella/Lizarra  Los Arcos
21km | 447m
Los Arcos | Population: 1,500
PHRASE GUIDE
(774km to go)
Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Donibane Garazi)  Orisson
(707km to go)
Day 4: Esteribar/Zubiri  Pamplona/Iruña
SCENARIOS
Section 1
Where to stay: Albergue Zaldiko | €10.00
Private, small and compact, it is literally a stone’s throw away from the fast flowing Arga river and you
cross the magnificent Gothic bridge – Puente de la Rabia.
Section 4
Note: If you begin at SJPDP – to avoid injury on the first day, you are strongly advised to take two
days to cross the Pyrenees.
Esteribar/Zubiri | Population: 400
ITINERARY
(727km to go)
22km | 528m
HEALTH
A model itinerary from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Saint John Foot of the Mountain) to Santiago
de Compostela – el Camino Francés (the French way) – the oldest route to Santiago – predated
by the Roman road system and the Celtic westerly route (the Milky Way).
Day 3: Roncesvalles/Orreaga  Esteribar/Zubiri
RESOURCES
Section 3
PACKING LIST
suggested pilgrimage over 34 days
FOOD GUIDE
 ITINERARY
Where to stay: Albergue Isaac Santiago | €4.00 per person
Highest point: The Lepoeder Pass, Col de Lepoeder (French), Collado de Lepoeder (Spanish).
1436 metres above sea level.
Run by Belgian Amigos: calle la Serna. Facilities include hot showers and internet.
☎
948 22 15 84
Autobuses: Traslado de Pamplona a Orreaga-Roncesvalles (Pamplona to Roncesvalles) |
 Salida desde la Estación de Autobuses de Pamplona (Departure from the bus station in Pamplona).
Autobuses La Montañesa: 6pm de lunes a viernes (Mon to Fri), 4pm sólo los sábados (Sat only).
Where to stay: 1) El Albergue Juvenile | €8.00 per person
948 76 03 02 | Opens from 3pm every day all year round. 70 places available.
☎
NOTES:
2) The Real Colegiata | €6.00
A colegiata is a multi-functional, multipurpose institution. It is a church headed by an abbot and
with a community of both monks and secular canons (ie. priests not affiliated with a monastic order).
The Real Colegiata was built by Sancho VII el Fuerte and consecrated in 1219. Refurbished during
the 20th century. It is one of the earliest pure Gothic monuments in Spain. It has 100 bunk beds
a heating system, running hot water for the showers. You can remain there only one night, unless
there are circumstances beyond your control.
12
Camino Downunder | Copyright © 2009 Marc Grossman
www.caminodownunder.com | Camino Downunder
13
2
3
Ee
(e)
6
Nn
(ene)
Rr
(erre)
21
Ww
(uve doble)
26
Xx
(equis)
27
Pp
(pe)
Tt
(te)
23
Qq
(cu)
20
Uu
(u)
24
Yy
(i griega)
28
Mm
(eme)
15
19
Ss
(ese)
22
Ll ll
(elle)
Oo
(o)
18
Ii
(i)
10
14
Ññ
(eñe)
17
Hh
(hache)
Ll
(ele)
13
Dd
(de)
5
9
Kk
(ka)
12
16
Gg
(ge)*
8
JJ
(jota)
11
4
Ff
(efe)
7
Ch (ch)
(che)
Vv
(uve)
25
Zz
(zeta)
29 letters
*
29
Important, basic questions…
1. ¿Cómo
se escribe xxxx en español? How do you write (spell out…) in Spanish?
2. ¿Cómo se pronuncia xxxx en español? How do you pronounce … in Spanish?
3. ¿Qué significa…….?
What does it (this word) mean?
4. ¿Cómo
se dice…?
How do you say?
5. ¿Dónde está…?
Where is ….?
6. ¿ De dónde eres?
Where do you come from?
Where do you originate?
To welcome
Ánimo (espíritu)
spirit, energy, courage
¡ánimo!
Cheer up!
Agua potable
Drinking water
Agua del grifo
Tap water
Una aportación (see also: donativo)
Contribution; donation
El albergue (alojamiento – accommodation)
Refuge
Albergue juvenile
Youth Hostel
Albergue de montaña
Mountain hut
El alojamiento
Accommodation
El ayuntamiento
Town hall
Aljama
Jewish neighbourhood
El alcalde
Mayor (male)
La alcaldesa
Mayor (female)
Una aldea (sometimes people say «un pueblo»)
Small village
La aldea global
The global village
Año (Santo) Jacobeo
Holy Year or Jubilee Year – when the 25 July (Saint
James day falls on a Sunday. The next Holy Year
is 2010 and the next one after that: 2021. There is a
spike in the number of people on the Camino Francés,
certainly during the months of June, July and August.
Una ampolla
Blister
El arzobispo
Archbishop
El apóstol (Santiago)
The Apostle (James)
Australia
Australia
Australiano ♂
Australian (male)
Australiana ♀
Australian (female)
INTRODUCTION
ITINERARY
Reception
Acoger (verb)
PACKING LIST
1
Cc
(ce)
La acogida (noun)
FOOD GUIDE
Bb
(be)
The letter  A a
Pronounce  (a)
ENGLISH
HEALTH
Aa
Spanish Letters: The Alphabet... ABC... in Spanish:
ESPAÑOL
RESOURCES
Las letras españolas: El alfabeto…
el abecedario… en español:
PHRASE GUIDE
 Lexical list – Camino de Santiago
Pronunciation
SCENARIOS
 PHRASE GUIDE
Soy de Sydney: I’m from Sydney
Vengo de Melbourne: I come from Melbourne
Soy de Australia: I’m from Australia
Soy australiano: ♂ I’m Australian
CLASS Exercise:
In either groups of three or in pairs, go through the words
in the Lexical list (next page) and choose ten (10) words which you believe will be
significant when you undertake the Camino. Justify (verbally) your choice with the
other(s) in the group. Then, report back to the class.
Bb
El banco
Bank
BBVA: Banco Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria
Fully operational since 1989, the Banco BilbaoVizcaya (BBV) was created in 1988 by the agreement
to merge the Banco de Bilbao and the Banco de
Vizcaya, two of the ‘big seven’ banks, the former
dating from 1857 and the latter from1901.
Note: by definition this list is a work in progress.
70
Camino Downunder | Copyright © 2009 Marc Grossman
www.caminodownunder.com | Camino Downunder
71
About the author
Marc Grossman’s 30 years professional background
(teaching French & Spanish) has given him unique
insights, skills and understandings, coupled with
his long standing passion for walking and trekking.
He and his wife Yvonne have been 21st century modern
pilgrims, who regularly return to Europe to undertake
different pilgrimage tracks and on site research.
Since the beginning of 2007, Marc has helped many
people successfully plan their own Camino journey with
his Camino Downunder classes & workshops, held
in Australia and New Zealand.
Camino Downunder
PO Box 2405 Bondi Junction NSW 1355 Australia
p (61) (0) 417 652 787
e [email protected]
www.caminodownunder.com
RRP $50.00