Norfolk & Suffolk Wing
Air Training Corps
Overseas Expedition - Ascension Island
South Atlantic Ocean - 2014
Introduction
Ascension Island is part of a British Overseas Territory together with St
Helena and Tristan da Cunha under the sovereignty of the British
Crown. The territory is presided over by a Governor, appointed by HM
the Queen, who is resident on St Helena. The Governor is represented
on Ascension by the Administrator. A revised Constitution entered into
force in September 2009. An elected Island Council advises the
Governor on laws, policies and the government’s annual budget.
Ascension, like Britain’s other Overseas Territories and the Crown
Territories, is not part of the United Kingdom. It has its own
Constitution (shared with St Helena and Tristan da Cunha), is internally
self-governing, makes its own laws and, as a separate fiscal jurisdiction,
has tax raising powers, through the Governor. The United Kingdom is
responsible for defence, international relations and internal security.
Ascension Island lies in the South Atlantic (7 56′S, 14 22′W) 700 miles northwest of the island of Saint Helena and
covers an area of 34 square miles. The climate is sub-tropical with temperatures ranging from 20-31°C. Showers
occur throughout the year with slightly heavier rains in the January-April period. The island is volcanic, and its
lower slopes and western side are made up of volcanic ash with little vegetation. The largest and most interesting
of Ascension’s natural lava caves are located at the northern base of Sisters, at the foot of Command Hill and
near the Grotto .
The island is located just a few degrees South of the Equator, and is blessed with warm tropical weather nearly all
year round, but, a trip to Green Mountain, which rises to a height of 2,818 feet at the centre of the island, and is
lush and green, would be a cooler option. The mountain is nearly always shrouded in cloud, and the lush
vegetation and cooler climate is quite a contrast to the rest of the island – it is almost like stepping into a
rainforest. The only exotic creatures to be encountered are a few feral sheep and the land crabs, and the picnic
area near the Red Lion is often full of colourful African Monarch butterflies. The views from the Mountain are
spectacular on a clear day, and there are several walks which take you around the top of the mountain. A short
trek from the Red Lion will bring you to the summit – 859 metres above sea level – and the Dew Pond surrounded
by a towering bamboo grove.
There is no indigenous or permanent population. The inhabitants of the island comprise the employees and
families of the organisations working on the island.
Ascension has many strikingly beautiful, golden-sand beaches. Long Beach stretches out a warm greeting – looks
are, however, deceiving, as this beach is not considered safe for swimming. Strong undercurrents deem this
beach fit only for the hundreds of Green Turtles that visit each year – and Long Beach, as their main nesting site
on the island, is one of the most important Green Turtle nesting sites in the world. Comfortless Cove is also a
popular beach, though its name may suggest otherwise. Much smaller, quieter and more secluded than English
Bay, this beach is perfect for a more relaxing day out. If you venture up the stairs from the beach and follow the
trail, you will find yourself at Bonetta Cemetery – Comfortless Cove was so named as it was the site that feverridden sailors were quarantined on the island around the 1830′s to 1870′s – some of the stricken men were
buried here and in a few small cemeteries around the cove.
There are many great walks to do on Ascension – some quite casual and others
rather more tricky. Most of them, however, offer some fantastic views around
the island. A “Letterbox Walks” guide is available from the Conservation Office
which documents them all including the Nature Trail walks on Green Mountain . A
spectacular view of Boatswain Bird Island can be seen by walking from the beach
near the Ariane Station at North East Bay, south east along the coastline, and all
along the way you can stop to admire the spectacular blow hole – when sea
conditions are right, water will shoot several feet up into the air – offering a great
photo opportunity! There are several blow holes around the coast line, but this
one is probably most spectacular, the one at the Scouts Beach hut, near Catherine
Point, provides a fun way to cool off on a hot day and is a little easier to get to.
The best way to enjoy Ascension is probably to join in with one of the clubs such
as the Ascension Hash House Harriers – every Saturday these intrepid explorers trek all over Ascension’s less
travelled terrain keeping fit and having fun at the same time.
Ascension Island was discovered by the Portuguese seafarer João da Nova Castella in 1501, (although this visit
apparently went unrecorded) and “found again” two years later on Ascension Day by Alphonse d’Albuquerque,
who gave the island its name. Being dry and barren it was of little use to the East Indies fleets. So it remained
uninhabited until Emperor Napoleon I was incarcerated on St Helena in 1815 when a small British naval garrison
was stationed on Ascension to deny it to the French. The island was designated “HMS Ascension”, a “Stone sloop
of War of the smaller class”.
By Napoleon’s death in 1821 Ascension had become a victualling station and sanatorium for ships engaged in the
suppression of the slave trade around the West African coast. In 1823 the island was taken over by the Royal
Marines. It remained under the supervision of the British Board of Admiralty until 1922, when it was made a
Dependency of St Helena by Royal Letters Patent. It ceased to be a military only island in 1899 when the Eastern
Telegraph Company arrived. From 1922 until 1964 the island was managed by the Eastern Telegraph Company
(renamed Cable and Wireless in 1934). In 1964, in view of plans to establish BBC and Composite Signals
Organisation (CSO) stations, an Administrator was appointed. (During the Second World War the St Helena
Government was similarly represented on the island).
During the Second World War the United States Government, by arrangement with His Majesty’s Government,
built “Wide awake Field” airstrip. From 1943-45 over 25,000 US planes transited Ascension Island destined for the
North African, Middle East and European theatres of war. In 1957 a US presence was re-established, the airfield
was enlarged and is now also the south east tracking station of the USAF Eastern Test Range. In 1967 a NASA
tracking station was built and supported the Apollo lunar landing programme. Although this has since closed
down NASA operations such as the Space Shuttle continue to be supported from Ascension by the USAF. In 1982
the Island supported operations in the Falkland Islands and a RAF detachment continues to operate on the island
in support of the Falklands garrison and the South Atlantic. The Islands’ museum, run by the Heritage Society
with it’s extensive collection of photographs and artefacts, along with Fort Hayes provide an enlightening glimpse
into the Islands rich heritage. The Museum opening hours are 1700-1900 on Mondays and 1000-1200 Saturdays.
There are also many Heritage sights around Georgetown and the island The wildlife on offer on Ascension is not
comparable to what can be seen on an African Safari or a trek through an Amazon rainforest, but on and around
this 34 square miles of volcanic rock there are some amazing creatures to be found. Ascension is probably best
known for it’s Green Turtles, these magnificent creatures visit the island each year between November and June
in their thousands. They heave their great bulks up the very same beaches on which they were born in order to
lay their eggs. Within a few months, turtle hatchlings begin “erupting” from their nests and scurrying towards the
relative safety of the ocean. The journey from the beach to the sea is often perilous for baby turtles, scavenging
frigate birds and rats pluck them off the beach. Once in the sea, they are then at risk from the many predators
patrolling off shore, however, many do survive and return decades later to breed
Ascension’s beautiful sea birds are found on Boatswain Bird Island, and often pods
of Bottlenose Dolphins, and possibly humpback whales visit the island during the
late winter and early spring months possibly to give birth. They may travel to our
warmer, food rich waters from as far away as the Falklands or Antarctica. In small
pools that lie about 100m inland from the sea, tiny shrimp endemic to Ascension
thrive, water to the ponds is fed by underground
channels. You can find these intriguing creatures by
following a trail through the rocky coastline from the Sooty Tern nesting grounds –
the Wideawake Fairs.
Back on land, the largest creatures on the island are the feral donkeys. The
donkeys are found mainly in Georgetown and around One Boat, those living in
Georgetown are often woken in the early hours by their loud braying. Some are
relatively friendly and will allow you to pet them, but they can become rather
boisterous and dangerous to road users during mating seasons. Ascension’s
donkeys have developed rather curious eating habits – probably due to the lack of vegetation for them to eat,
they’ve acquired a taste for cardboard and will happily devour any boxes left lying around!
Further inland at the Ashpit or Green Mountain, you are likely to come across some rather menacing-looking
critters – the land crabs. These orange or purple crustaceans, some armed with large and powerful claws, spend
most of their time eating guavas and other vegetation growing on the islands higher slopes. Once a year, they
make an epic journey down to the coastline in order to spawn – the Conservation department has just begun to
study the land crabs and their habits in more detail.
An insight into the wildlife of Ascension is not complete without mentioning the marine life. The pristine ocean
around the island holds a wide diversity of beautiful creatures that thrive in our food rich, tropical waters. As the
fish of Ascension have never been exposed to commercial fisheries operations, endemic and non-endemic species
are extremely plentiful, and can be seen all around the island just off-shore. Snorkeling off English Bay beach
offers the best chance of spotting a myriad of species.
Photograph of the team and community at Porpoise Point
Expedition By Norfolk and Suffolk Wing
Team Members
Flt Lt Pauline Petch
Fg Off Andrew Garrett
Fg Off Emma Dixon
Sgt ATC Rob Cates
CWO Thomas Clifton
Cdt FS Sara Cross
Cdt Sgt Sarah Keeble
Cdt Sgt Robert Woodward
Cdt FS Sophie Leigh
Pearson
Cdt Sgt Jaxck Savage
Cdt Sgt William Crowe
Cdt Sgt Glen Macloughlin
Cdt Sgt Ben Last
Cdt Sgt Edward Last
Cdt Sgt Ryan Jackson
Cdt Sgt Lauren Blockwell
Weather
Arriving at Ascension on the 27th February the temperature was 30 degrees and slightly breezy. This was the
norm for the rest of the week, although on the mountain the weather was slightly cooler and more cloudy. One
rain storm during daylight hours happened on the last day…..at the time of the Base Command photograph!
Conservation
The Conservation team conserves Ascension’s natural heritage by implementing the Ascension Island
Government’s commitments to the Environment Charter. The Conservation Department was set up in 2001 when
a Conservation Officer was recruited as part of the Seabird Restoration Project. Staff numbers have increased
since then and there are now eleven full time staff employed both by the Government and by project grants from
e.g. the Darwin Initiative, OTEP and JNCC. The full time team is also supported by volunteers who kindly give up
their time to assist with practical conservation work, and other scientists such as MSc students that carry out their
research projects in the department. The Conservation Team has since established its identity on Ascension and
has made steady progress in conserving and promoting the Island’s fantastic biodiversity. With the support of
Ascension Island Government and project funding from dedicated overseas organisations such as RSPB, OTEP,
JNCC and the Darwin Initiative, we have undertaken a number of projects aimed at conserving Ascension’s flora
and fauna and also controlling the spread of alien invasives on the Island. The Conservation Team has since
established its identity on Ascension and has made steady progress in conserving and promoting the Island’s
fantastic biodiversity. With the support of Ascension Island Government and project funding from dedicated
overseas organisations such as RSPB, OTEP, JNCC and the Darwin Initiative, we have undertaken a number of
projects aimed at conserving Ascension’s flora and fauna and also controlling the spread of alien invasives on the
Island.
Diary of the Trip
Wednesday 26th Feb:
So our adventure began on Wednesday 26th
February 2014 on a typical English day with typical
English weather in typical English temperatures.
The first pick up point was Kings Lynn, then after a
whole hour journey with the bus driver leaving his
microphone on and some rather lively
conversations being overheard we arrived at Wing
HQ to pick up more and then further onto Ipswich.
Once we were all on the coach the real journey
began and it got noisier and nosier as we all got to
know each other. Before we knew it and after a
quick but necessary KFC stop we arrived at RAF
Brize Norton where we were greeted by the sight of three huge C17s, being Air Cadets this excited us quite a bit.
As we were early for the flights , we moved throughout the airport and went from the terminal to the waiting
room to the mess, and then finally to the terminal again. This is where the amazing mix of nerves and excitement
crossed for everyone and as we waited we all wondered about everything such as what aircraft would we travel
on?….., what’s the temperature there?...... What will we be doing?..... Well ,when we were finally asked to board
we walked straight out to the huge looming presence of Voyager passenger jet. The process of going through the
airport at Brize Norton was different to civilian flying, it was calm and not particularly busy and everybody
appreciated the calm and efficient running of the whole process. Back to the Flight then, after boarding the
aircraft we found our allocated seats and then instantly began to rest. We had the front section of the aircraft,
some cadets in the middle, some at the sides and one who had two seats to herself! This of course made a lot of
us rather jealous. The aircraft fired up and began to move very shortly after boarding and before we knew it we
were in the air and Ascension bound. The flight consisted mainly of sleep and eating, the food was given out and
we demolished everything given to us,- not the ones that were asleep though. We were all given adaptors to
watch film and blankets to sleep with. The flight went on forever for those of us that didn’t get any sleep and
after hours and hours of attempting to sleep, sleeping or eating the sun began to rise leaving us to all to see the
huge expanse of the Atlantic Ocean rush beneath us.
Thursday 27th February
The aircraft got lower and lower and the weather began to look better and better until from across the other side
of the plane we heard “look, I see land!” and as we saw our first glimpse of the beautiful blue and golden yellow
coastlines of the island the plane made its way onto the runway were before we knew it we had stopped, the
door was open and we were ready to leave. The first words said when we made our first steps were all “It’s Hot”
or something along those lines. We said this because as we stepped out of the aircraft we were all battered by a
wall of incredible heat which beamed down on us as we all
made the walk across the airfield to the tiny terminal that was
surrounded by the welcoming image of palm trees and the
bright blue sea in the background.
Post customs, we found our way into three rather squat cars.
Windows down and air con’ blazing’, the weeks
accommodation was only a short drive away. Time for briefs!
The first of which took us to a brief with OC OPS – Flt Lt
Dawes for a short history of the island and its purpose
was an interesting attempt at keeping weary cadets
awake, the end of which resulted in finishing on the
runway pointing out how much the Americans dislike the
British – although the services work together their
buildings couldn’t be further apart! The MET office was
next on the list, we were shown various instruments of
how to measure the climate of the island. Hot. Glad to
see that all British weather was clear until the end of the
week. The lowest temperature recorded for February
was 26°C!
After the visit to the Base , cadets and staff travelled back to RAF Travellers Hill which would be our home for the
week , to change and visit Two Boats for an afternoon of swimming . Two Boats is a small village on the road
towards the mountain. The pool is part of a community unit with a small café , a skittles game and a games area
in addition to the pool.
Sgt. Savage demonstrated the correct ways to dive – without belly-flopping…and cadets spent the afternoon
swimming and relaxing and getting to know each other . It went swimmingly!!Sgt Jack Savage
That evening we went to see the hundreds of land crabs
migrating from Green-Mountain to drop off their eggs in the
water. After dropping their eggs in the water they head straight
back to the mountain. We arrived at the beach in the light of the
evening and wondered past all of the turtle holes in the sand to
the rocks where the crabs were starting to emerge from. As the
light level decreased more and more crabs emerged from cracks
and holes in the rocks. One of the guides found a male and
female crab to show us all and the differences between the two.
As the darkness descended the torches came out. All of a
sudden you had to be very careful of where you stood because
of the risk of stepping on one of the laying crabs.
Once the crabs had
got to the water and
it was deep enough
for them to deposit
their eggs they did a
little dance and
shook themselves
and that was the
depositing done.
They then proceeded
back to the hills back
to their home.
Sgt Ben Last
Friday 28th February
Friday saw a very early start as we travelled to Long Beach –the main turtle nesting beach for 6:00am. There we
met Emily who works on the island who was able to tell us all about the turtles and the egg laying process.
As it was dark, it was hard to see but
you could make out dark shapes
moving across the sand. We
proceeded to move closer to the
turtles (avoiding turtle pits) for photo
opportunities. Some even managed a
turtle “selfie.”
As the hot sun rose over the
turtles make their journey back to the
sea, the male turtles were lurking
some more mating time. After
to the sea we headed back for
mountains we saw many more
sea. As the turtles got back to the
awaiting the return of the ladies for
watching the last of the turtles return
breakfast . F/Sgt Wiliam Crowe
After a quick shower everyone was driven to the base of Green Mountain National Park - the highest peak on the
Ascension isles at 859 metres and also happens to be a volcano.
At the bottom of the mountain we started the assent in the very dry
barren heat similar to that of most areas of the island. At first the walk
presented very little wildlife and vegetation except for the odd feral
sheep. The team followed a zigzag road up most of the mountain. The
first exiting moment for everyone was the amazing views on the lower
part of the road where vegetation didn’t obscure anything. Next came
the trees that none of us would associate with a tropical rainforest and
not the barren dry landscape of most of the island. Were trees such as banana trees prickly pear coffee plants
wild strawberry plants and the eucalyptus could be found. Most of us didn’t expect to see anything like this what
made the moment more memorable was see some of the local wildlife such as the yellow billed tropic bird and
the fairy turns commonly called the wide awake turn locally and minah birds. also what no one expected to see
after walking through a rainforest climate was the white head of the local population of feral sheep grazing on the
plants of the hillside among the other animals. After the assent of the first part of the walk we arrived upon an
open peak looking onto the top of Green Mountain nearby was
the old Royal
Marine
Barracks and a
large concrete
structure used
to funnel and
collect
rainwater.
The final push for the peak saw us follow a narrow overgrown path
with mainly long grass and the few Norfolk pines which eventually
brought us into a forest of bamboo thick enough on all sides to
obscure the views but also large enough to keep of the intense heat
of the sun which ended in the long anticipated round Dew pond
about 15ft across surrounding the pond was yet more bamboo and
the ascension Lilly could be seen in the pond. And finally we tracked
the shorter than imagined 50mrts through the bamboo Up to the
peak marked by a rusty chain.
As this is one of the Letterbox walks on the island there is a stamp and
book at Dewpond to record the walk . Then began the descent – this
was relatively shorter in time as the steep roads meant that fast
moving downhill as the norm !
CWO Thomas Clifton
After dinner and post showers and dust
riddance, we headed from Travellers Hill
to Comfortless Cove to observe the sun
setting. We were late. As we pulled up to
the cove’s carpark the sun had pretty
much set, leaving the sky a colourful
array of blues. Comfortless Cove is one of
the two safe places to swim off the island
– English Bay being the other. Upon reaching the sanded part of the cove, it became apparent that the bay was
appropriately named. It was formed from lava rock – just sharp, jagged rocks not suitable for sitting.
Due to the strong riptide, the option of swimming was a definite no, the sheer amount of sand removed by the
sea was enough to prove a point (plus the thought of swimming with the “Black fish”, part of the piranha family
wasn’t overly enticing).
The cove is also home to Bonnetta Cemetry.
An interesting place where the sailors who contracted yellow fever, en-route to South America were buried.
There was a huge difference in the graves: large white stone monuments for the higher
ranks; with wooden boards for unknown bodies; and small tombstones for the lower ranks.
After speaking to the local scout group, getting advice for places to camp and activities, we
then went back to go to bed . Sgt Glenn MacLoughlin
Saturday 1st March
The team started the day off by doing some beach clearing on long beach, due to the conservation team on the
island the day before, showing us that weeds and roots prevent the turtles from laying their eggs. We were
shown a turtle pit which was obstructed by weeds, causing the turtle to dig another hole, which may have meant
that the turtle had to wait another night to dig another hole before it got too hot.
The conservationists seemed very grateful of all our help, they were very keen to tell us Working hard in the early
morning meant that we completed the whole beach by early afternoon.
We found a large tarpaulin buried under the sand and this
would have also prevented the turtles from laying. We
finished off by trying to pull up as much tarpaulin as
possible, but it seemed to go on forever, so we had to just
rip what we managed to uncover.
It was very hot and we all ended up looking like tomatoes
covered in dirt! We then put on our DPM trousers and
ascension shirts on, to do a FOD plod of the beach for
pictures, we also got pictures with the two conservationists, who were very happy of our help. Looking at the
trailer full of weeds we felt very satisfied that we have at least helped a little to make it easier for the turtles
Overall it was a good morning. We hopefully will help the turtles
nest on long beach for a little while. Everyone enjoyed doing the
beach clearing, although it was hot, we all felt a sense of
achievement, for hopefully helping the turtles to nest. F/Sgt
Sophie Leigh-Pearson & F/Sgt Sarah Cross
Whilst all the other cadets went swimming at Two Boats Sgt Last
(B) and Flt Lt Petch went to collect the ensign from Lady Hill that
had been damaged in the wind and come away from one of the
fixings to the post. We started off our walk at the bottom of Lady hill at 14:22 and proceeded up the steep rocky
slope . On arrival at the top we could see the ensign was torn along the edge where it had been hitting the
volcanic rocks . We then walked down with the ensign to meet the cadets Sgt Ben Last
In the early evening, we went on back to North East Bay to take part in a traditional American walk called a
‘Hash’ where a group of the local population group together to follow shredded paper on a; as proven,
challenging run or walk. When we walked passed past the paper dots we continued to the next one and then the
next one and as we followed the trail the terrain became increasingly unstable with rocks and slopes. We
regrouped around the paper put into circles rather than dots. We walked with a large group of 44 local and
American marine biology students, who we talked and socialised with during the walk. The terrain we walked on
was very challenging and the rocks and huge boulders were loose and jagged at most of the points on the walk.
Overall we found the walk and boulder hopping , challenging. However the opportunity to be involved in
community type events and socialising with different visitors made a very interesting evening, and they were
all happy to join us for a photo with our ensign ….all organised by the American organiser shouting out “ The
Ladys got a flag” Sgt Ed Last
Shortly after the walk, we paid a visit to the United States Auxiliary Air Force base located on the south west of
the island. When we arrived we were all very excited as it was kept a surprise for the past few days. The surprise
turned out to be an outdoor cinema, and we watched Despicable Me 2, and had dinner from the American diner.
Most of us had a volcano burger, or a pizza with a side of fries as well as an unforgettable amount of Gatorade
just for the U.S side of the night! For Sgt Last this was a particularly special night as we found out he had a rather
serious love for both America and Americans and so he indulged in his own small little bit of the USA here on the
island.
Sunday 2 March
Searching for ‘strandlings ‘ – turtles that get cut off by the tide
We woke up at 0620 hours to leave for long beach arriving at
the conservation centre at 7 we were met by Maria and Natalie
two of the conservation interns . They took us for a walk along
to Deadman beach and Long beach . Walking up to Catherine
point where is a blow hole and right to the tip of collier point
, 18 pairs of eyes eagerly peeled looking for baby turtles.
Unfortunately none were to be seen . However it was not a
wasted journey after looping back from the museum and fort in
George Town we had a look over the pier . There were
hundreds of black fish and needle fish congregating in the
depths close to the pier. A lovely picturesque view with the
rising of the early morning sun . After many photos we drove back to travellers hill for breakfast and to get ready
for the days adventures. ...trekking the south red crater Our next letterbox walk.
South Red crater , leaving base at 930 am we drove in convoy
along the twisting. NASA road to the start of the south crater red
trains . Sgt savage. Led the team with his ...mainly ...good map
reading skills . Atone terrain of the trail was mainly rough and full
of boulders but very red . The rocks often broke away as you trod
along the trail rolling down the hill or simply laying along the trail .
At the beginning of the trail these rocks were a graphite
colour with. Few pumice stones mixed with them . As we reached
the the base of the south crater we neared a ravine which we had
to walk round to get to south red crater . In doing this we passed a
massive. Cluster of prickly cactuses . After numerous photos of the giant green structures we proceeded up the
hill to the peak of the carter . The hill was not the highest we
climbed but it was extremely step. All sixteen members made it
to the peak and all stamped their books ....some the letterbox
books and many 3822s. We then got out the ensign
and photographed the group at the top with the ensign -on top
of a very narrow rocky peak . After a well deserved few minutes
break we refuelled with water and began our way down from
the crater . This took rather a long time as we had to leave
suitable gaps between the members descending to prevent sliding
and knocking the next person down . Once down we went back
past the maze of cactuses and up to the start of the trail to the vehicles . We the headed back to travellers hill
for a well deserved shower after taking a few more camp photos along the way beside the trail signs .
After lunch and a lengthy shower the team
changed and travelled to English bay towels and
costumes at the ready. The tide was already in
when we arrived .....but. Cadets from Norfolk and
Suffolk did not mind !
Starting with a paddle and ending with water
covering every inch head to toe it's safe to say
we had an absolutely wonderful time at the
beach . The boys were jumping over the
waves and being washed up on the sand by the
sheer power of the water , the girls were dipping
in and out of the water and the staff were
sensibly waiting on the beach
Keeping an eye on our safety ....well most of the staff
..the boys also involved Fg Off Garrett as well as
cadets in the ATC doing a form of body surfing in the
waves
After an hour or so on the beach with towels wrapped
round bodies , sunglasses firmly fixed to damp and
sandy faces we transferred back into the cars ...just.
Up the track from here the BBC relay station is
situated. So everyone piled out of the cars again for
another team photo near to the two huge
satellites before heading back to travellers for yet
another much needed showers. While cadets cleaned
up the staff took a drive up the Nasa road to look for
suitable visit areas . After a full recce some absolutely
spectacular views were found and another photo opportunity for late in the week
Pan am beach .
After dinner in the mess , Sunday evening saw the
team drive down to pan am beach ...another turtle
nesting area with wonderful sunsets .
This was agreeably one of the loveliest evenings on camp. Siting in our DPMs we found places on the warm sand
to sit and stare out to sea beside the open rocks . Nothing would have been more blissful and relaxing watching
the beautiful orange sun descend into aglow along the horizon as the waves whipped up foam onto the rocks and
splashed us with spray . The fg of s took some. Stunning photographs of the sunset and also silhouettes of the
group against the glorious backdrop of the glowing sky . We packed up around 830 after watching two turtles
come onto the beach in the dusk of the evening. To begin their laying process.
From here we headed into Georgetown for a turtle tour. The conservation group had kindly agreed to give us a
fully tour as we had helped with the beach clean . We met Daniel at the centre who gave a PowerPoint
presentation about turtle conservation on Ascension Island . Daniel explained there were three kinds of turtles ,
green turtle , leatherback and hawksbill . He told us about their diet breeding and lifestyle and Their rarity
...especially of the leatherback who is becoming very endangered . Ascension is the breeding area of the green
turtle . What was fascinating is that the green turtles spend about six years building up body fat and muscle to
make the six month journey from Brazil to Ascension to lay their eggs on the island . We then met Emily and
Maria IMHO took us down to long beach and found us a green turtle who was in the process of laying. Edges. We
watched for a while as the turtle is in a trance when she is laying so takes no notice of human contact .
We were able at this point to take photos under a red torchlight .However when she began to throw up sand
over the eggs we were asked to leave her .
Emily then found us some hatchlings .... Emily brought them to us in a bag ....these were from a nest that had
hatched but the. Tiny turtles had not come out before. Dawn so the conservationists dig around the nest and
then release any turtles into the sea when dark to prevent the frigate birds from getting them . Each of the team
was allowed to hold one of the hatchlings to release it into the sea .
Many were named.....Sgt Cates named his ‘Fluffy ‘ ??I we made our
way with wriggling reptiles in our hands down to the waters edge .
Releasing the baby turtles was a very emotional moment as we let
go and watched them flap their tiny flippers to get to the water .
Emily explained that they would have the protein from the eggshell
as fuel whilst swimming as far as possible in the first four or five
days after hatching in order to keep alive and away from the
endangered but lethal beak of the frigate bird . After ensuring that al
the turtles had gone into the sea without turning back we walked
back to the conservation centre to say our goodbyes and thank the
staff before heading back to travellers hill for a late night at 1130 it was such a unique activity that no one was
tired and we had had such an amazing experience
Sgt Sarah Keeble
Monday March 3rd
This morning was another early start - 630 so we could have breakfast at 7 and begin our days work early before
the heat of the day . The team would be working for the Green mountain national park for the day up along
Elliot's pass., so staff visited the NAAFI to purchase food to make sandwiches for lunch .
The ginger grows so vigorously up on Green
Mountain that it covers the paths and
needs cutting back . Because of the
extreme steepness of the roadways the
team could only be ferried up the
mountain, two at a time
After the whole team had arrived, Stedson
the park ranger, came to give us our safety
briefs and tell the team why their help is so
badly needed . He also showed the
endemic plants that must not be touched .
From here cadets armed with machetes and strong gloves began their task for the day . Over the course of the
long day the team managed to chop back 400 meters of ginger and weeds that lined the path , this added to the
200 metres that the previous team had cut meant that Elliot's path was becoming much easier to walk along for
visitors .
After cutting and clearing
the weeds and ginger ,
the team then managed
to get another letterbox
stamp in their
books before being
ferried and walking down
from the mountain.
Before travelling back to travellers hill , and while we were still in uniform.,the cadets and staff travelled along
Nasa road and right up to Devils Ashpit, exploring the surrounding area and To take some more stunning
photographs before. Travelling down and back to travellers for a much needed shower and dinner . As this
would be our last night , after dinner the team travelled to pan am beach again to watch another sun go down
on a very magical and unbelievable expedition . As the night became dark the team travelled back to the naïf for
some group time to write up their reports and to socialise together . The Fg Officers and two cadets travelled up
Nasa road to stargaze and to take some more stunning photographs .
Tuesday March 4th
The morning dawned cloudy with a little rain . It was hoped more star gazing could be done but cloud cover made
this more difficult . One car full of cadets and staff travelled to Long beach for the last morning of seeing the
turtles .
They were very fortunate to see a turtle just finishing laying and beginning to cover her nest, so sat at a distance
and watched this wonderful spectacle . During this last morning 8 turtles were observed meandering back into
the sea after their nighttime laying fest.. On return to traveller’s hill the team dressed in uniform to visit the
base commander Wing commander Mark Taylor . He was very pleased to speak with the cadets and chatted to
them before accepting a Norfolk and Suffolk Wing plaque from the Camp Commandant Flt Lt Pauline Petch. He
then suggested a camp photo outside with the mountain as a back drop . As soon as we were assembled it began
to rain!
After two of three attempts it was decided to change the place for the Photograph . The flight times for the
homeward journey then became confirmed - we would be leaving earlier than expected due to bad weather
expected in the Falklands later in the day . This would mean that the planned visit to the school in the afternoon
would have to be cancelled as would the swimming at two boats. This saddened everyone for a while as the
team had enjoyed being involved in the community and conservation and this would have been improved by
visiting the school children to explain who we are and why we are on ascension. However the team will contact
the school when home and hopefully be able to exchange information that way.
From the Base, the team went into Georgetown for
some last minute shopping and a visit to the museum
and fort.
This was enjoyed by all . Although not large the museum
holds some vast array of information and artifacts including a horse drawn fire engine . As we left in
different cars some called at the conservation office to
say goodbye and found that the conservation team had
found some hatchlings in the morning. Which they would wait til
dark to release and we were allowed to see them ....33 tiny
sleeping turtles... in a bucket.......….absolutely amazing !
Fg Off Dixon also went back through the USAF base and made contact with he base commander there who
agreed to pose for photographs with cadets .
The whole team then had showers, finished packing their bags and then went for a last lunch in the mess. From
here keys had to be handed in , they had to travel to the airhead to be ready for the flight in addition to leaving
cars and cleaning cars , and leaving the kit for the next team out .
Although a very small airport , the staff are very friendly as most also work at Travellers hill so we have met.
Although the flight was not due to leave until 17.40 cadets and staff had to book in early . The small airport does
not have ‘mod cons’ and the passport checks are all done by hand therefore takes longer . After this they were
shown through to the departure lounge . Once the movement staff had cleaned and refuelled the air craft we
were led out onto the apron and boarded the aircraft for the 9 hour flight back home to RAF BrIze Norton and
from there we were bussed back to Norfolk ……only not quite as simply as that ! The bus did not turn up , we had
problems hiring vehicles so ended up in the Gateway Hotel and waited for the bus to arrive ….finally at the end of
the afternoon ….considering we flew in at 2.30 am …not efficient as it could have been !!!
Overview
British forces overseas: Falkland Islands and Ascension Island
British forces in the south Atlantic, information on the islands, accommodation and facilities for personnel and
their families
Contents
1. Falkland Islands
2. Pre deployment information
3. Ascension Island: a short guide
4. Things to do on Ascension Island
5. See more like this
Falkland Islands
Forces are based in the Falklands to demonstrate the government’s continued commitment to the security of UK
overseas territories in the South Atlantic. They include air defence assets, maritime patrol capability and infantry
forces.
There are also regular naval deployments to the region and temporary deployments for routine exercises. The
exact force levels are kept under constant review and are structured and maintained at a level consistent with
this policy.
Pre deployment information
All Service personnel deploying to the Falklands are to do so in accordance with the Joint Individual Mounting
Instruction.
Personnel deploying with their families are also to read the Families pre arrival pack.
Ascension Island: a short guide
First discovered in 1501 by Juan Da Nova, Ascension was called Conception before being renamed in 1503 by
Alphonse D’Alberquerque. A stopping off point for ships, Ascension was not continually inhabited until 1815 when
Napoleon Bonaparte was imprisoned on St Helena.
The British occupied Ascension to prevent the French from using the Island as an escape route. The Victoria
Marines worked hard to make the Island habitable, introducing a variety of plants and animals. Buildings, which
still stand today, were erected up the Mountain and in the Garrison, now called Georgetown. Although almost
indefensible, forts were built but British sovereignty was never challenged.
Towards the end of the 19th century Ascension had gone into decline. In 1899 The Easter Telegraph Company
(now called Cable and Wireless) found a new use for this speck of land. They laid telegraphy cable on the seabed,
and soon Ascension became the centre of communications in the South Atlantic. Later NASA found another use
for the Island and tested the moon buggy on the lava flows.
Georgetown
Originally called Garrison by the Victoria Marines, Georgetown houses most of the Islands public buildings. The
Church of St Mary the Virgin can be seen within the Islands racetrack. The comer stone was laid in 1843 and it was
finally consecrated by the first Bishop of St Helena in 1861. Fort Hayes can be clearly seen on the coastline. Built
in about 1860 it is now used by the Heritage Society as a museum. The museum also boasts a splendid picture
gallery as well as a large and varied number of artefacts from the Islands history.
Green Mountain
The tallest peak on the Island, Green Mountain is often shrouded in mist. It was recognised as having the greatest
potential for vegetation and the Marines had a farm up there. In Victoria times and well into the 20th century this
provided all the fresh produce for the Island including milk and vegetables. Today, with the advent of the
Airbridge from the UK, the farm is considerably smaller than it was. Still standing are several of the buildings
including the Red Lion, which despite its name was never a pub in the UK sense. It was originally built to house
farm workers.
Just below the summit of the Mountain, the Dew Pond is the highest ‘feature’ on the Island and can be found
surrounded by a bamboo forest and a myriad of plant and wildlife. It was dug out in 1875 to act as an emergency
water supply, although in practice it would never have been sufficient to provide water for the Island. The path to
the top is often muddy and a rope is provided to help both the ascent and the descent.
Sister’s Peak
Sister’s Peak is one of the most recently active volcanic peaks (500 to 700 years ago) of the island and dominates
the skyline. A path was cut to the top in 1972 when it was opened as the Hannay Pass but is also famed as being
the first ‘letter box’ walk to have been established on the Island. The solidified lava flows down the other side of
the peaks can be clearly seen and there are fumarole caves which can be explored.
Two Boats Village
Two Boats was built to house the BBC workers when the South Atlantic Relay Station was opened at English Bay.
It is so named after the 2 long boats, which were up ended and placed into the ground to act as shade shelters for
the men that moved water from Green Mountain to the rest of the Island. The two boats can still be seen on the
way to Dampier’s Drip from a stile at the top of Two Boats Village.
Comfortless Cove
A beautiful cove and one of the only two places where swimming is safe when the sea is calm. A rope has been
pulled across the entrance to the cove making it even safer. Ideal for snorkelling when the sea is calm you can see
a variety of fish, including Blackfish, which are known as ‘the dustbins of the sea’. Throw in any food substance
and it will be enveloped by a Blackfish pushing and fighting to get their share. Inedible and not useful for bait they
are perhaps one of the most common sights in the sea especially around the pierhead and are completely
harmless to the swimmer.
Comfortless Cove was originally called Comfort Cove. It was where the ships carrying yellow fever docked.
Islanders would bring the stricken sailors food and water across the rocks whilst preventing an epidemic amongst
their own community. There are several small cemeteries around the coastline but the most visited is close to
Comfortless Cove by the name of Bonetta Cemetery; so named after the ship HMS Bonetta which brought its
fever victims ashore in 1838. Such desolation led to the change of name. Much later, the first transatlantic
telegraph cables were brought ashore at this point some of which can still be seen today.
Boatswain Bird Island
Boatswain Bird Island is inhabited by seabirds and landing by the public is forbidden. Boat trips and divers anchor
off its shores and dolphins often play around the boats as they speed through the turquoise waters. The Island
can be seen from many vantage points around the Island; the top of Weatherpost or White Horse or simply by
walking along from Hannay’s beach next to where the blow hole spews water into a fountain.
In 1923 the English Bay Company began mining guano deposits. The remains of this mining and the old log railway
tracks can be seen on the surface of Boatswain Bird Island and around English Bay itself. Even after the English
Bay Company stopped commercial operations, the guano off Boatswain Island was collected to fertilise the farm
at Green Mountain.
There is the boatswain bird itself with its beautiful long tail that remains fairly aloof unlike the fairy terns, who in
their eager curiosity fly low over your heads to see what you are doing. The Ascension frigate bird can be seen
circling the skies looking for prey (often baby turtles at the end of the nesting season) but the distinctive red
pouches of the male are rarely seen. The boobies are a sight to behold when there is a fry around the Pierhead as
they dive straight into the water to catch their share. Other birds include petrels, brown and black noddies and
the wideawake or sooty tern.
Ascension Island wildlife
Probably the most famous of the Ascension wildlife is the Green Turtle or Chelonia Mydas which swims from
Brazil to the Islands sandy beaches to lay its eggs every November to May. During its 1000 mile journey the turtles
fast as there is no vegetation for which they can feed on. Mating off shore the female clambers up the beach to
dig her hole and lay up to 120 eggs at one time; each turtle visits the beach up to 10 times over a 17 day period.
When these hatch the young make their way instinctively to the sea where a variety of predators ensures that
only a few will survive. At one time, the Turtles provided fresh meat for the sailors and were a good source of
income for the Island.
Today they are a protected species
The only indigenous inhabitants of the Island are the land crabs and the seabirds. The land crabs are most prolific
around the foot of Green Mountain and the old NASA site. They are purple and orange and despite living on the
land return to the seashore to lay their eggs.
The sea birds have all but left the Island but in some places they have now returned. Ships inadvertently
introduced rats and mice but in a bid to exterminate them, the ferrel cat was introduced. Unfortunately, the cats
found the birds much easier prey and drove them onto the hard to reach cliffs and shacks off the coast. Donkeys
and sheep introduced by the early farmers for labour and food have since been allowed to roam free causing an
unusual traffic hazard, particularly after rain when they stand in the road to drink from the puddles.
Watch the green turtles laying and hatching
The season runs from December to June. Turtles can be found in many locations, but Long Beach, next to
Georgetown, is probably the best location. They almost always lay their eggs at night when it is dark, however,
please do your watch before 11pm, so if a turtle is disturbed, she will have a chance to try again. Don’t use a
torch, approach from the rear and don’t take any photographs until she is well into the egg laying phase or
returning to the sea.
When the hatchlings emerge, they wait until it is dark and the sand has cooled, before trying to reach the sea. If
they try to cross the beach in daylight, the birds often get them before they reach the water. I would recommend
booking with the Conservation group for a turtle talk and watch. These happen on Monday and Thursday
evenings at 9pm and costs £5 per person. They show you a video then take you down to Long Beach where they
will try and find a turtle laying their eggs and some babies, depending on the time of year. The Conservation office
on the main road through Georgetown and is open from 10am to noon Monday to Saturday and at other times on
a request basis, Extension 6359.
Walk up Green Mountain and get a stamp in your passport
Ascension Island offers an infinite variety of landscapes. From the dense lush vegetation on Green Mountain, to
the spectacular volcanic landscapes found elsewhere. There are many good walks on the island, some easy, some
severe, often with splendid views. Many of the walks are known as “letterbox” walks” with rubber stamps to
validate your achievement in a map book. The book can be purchased from the Tourist Information Office in the
Obsidian Hotel or at the Heritage Centre. Some routes are hazardous and expert advice should be sought before
attempting any of them. For safety reasons, we recommend a minimum of three people to do a walk together
and please sign a sat phone out of base operations.
One of the most popular walks is at the top of Green Mountain. You can drive up there and park just before the
Red Lion .From the Red Lion follow the track up past the old pig farm and on to the cow sheds. Take the path sign
posted to the Dew Pond. The path is well marked, but sometimes can be overgrown and is very often muddy. The
top section gets very steep and there is a boardwalk and rope for you to help get to the top, not as difficult as it
sounds. You can do this with children. The pond was built in the 1870s and an anchor chain just past the pond
marks the highest point (2817ft) on the island.
Visit the blow hole at Hannay’s Beach
Take a short drive from Two Boats down Watson’s Way towards the North East Bay, when the road forks right.
Park past the Ariane tracking station then walk away from the station down to the beach to where you will find
the blow hole.
Don’t forget your camera! There are lots of rock pools here which are full of fish, a great place to visit with
children.
Take a dip at Comfortless Cove or English Bay
For Comfortless Cove turn off at One Boat and take a drive down to Pyramid Point Road. Follow the track to the
left before the ‘golf ball’ then walk down to the beach. Enjoy a swim and relax on the beach, but before you leave
pay a visit to the Bonetta Cemetery at the back of the cove. The Cemetery dates from 1838. It is where victims of
yellow fever from among crews of ships patrolling the coast of West Africa were laid to rest.
To get to English Bay turn right off Pyramid Point Road, onto English Bay Road. Go past the BBC Atlantic Relay
Station, take the left turn just before the power station and follow the road down to the main beach. There is a
good barbecue and covered area should you want some shade down on the beach. Both beaches are excellent for
snorkelling as there is a great variety of marine life to be seen.
NB: These are the only two beaches where you can swim and even then, do not swim if there is any swell running.
Over the years several people have been killed by swells lifting them and dumping them on the rocks.
Take a walk through the Wideawake (Sooty) Tern colony
This is seasonal and will depend on when the terns are nesting on Wideawake fairs at the back of the airfield.
Please get advice from the conservation people in Georgetown if you want to go there on your own otherwise
you take trips out on a Wednesday at 1000 hrs (for 2 hours) with the conservation office. Cost is £5 per person.
Visit St Mary’s church Georgetown
Built by the Royal Marines in 1843, St. Mary’s Church contains many interesting memorial stones and gives a real
taste of Ascension Island history. It also contains stained glass windows in memory of those men who lost their
lives in the Falklands. St. Mary’s is open 24 hours a day and the door is only closed to keep out the donkeys.
Take a drive up the NASA road to The Devil’s Ashpit
As you drive up the road watch out for the yellow and purple land crabs, which live in burrows on the side of the
road. They like to live quite high up on land, only returning to the seashore to breed and lay their eggs on the
beaches near the high water marks. At the end of the road you will see the old NASA control building. This area is
the starting point for several walks on the east of the island. If you are equipped to do some walking, the Weather
Post and Devil’s Cauldron are worth the effort from this point as they give the best views of Boatswain Bird Island.
Go big game fishing
Fishing is a very popular pastime at Ascension, both as a hobby and to supplement the diet and many people fish
either from the shore or boats. The waters around the island host a wide variety of fish. Offshore can be found
such species as Tuna, Wahoo, Marlin, Sailfish, Dorado and shark. Inshore Grouper, Bullseye and Congor Eel can be
found. There are several skippered boats (with fishing gear included) available for hire at reasonable rates.
Contact numbers for local fisherman can be obtained from the reception at the Obsidian Hotel.
Note: Fishing from the rocks around Ascension can be dangerous due to tidal surges and unpredictability of the
sea state. Before attempting any form of fishing on Ascension, you should be wise to seek the advice of an
experienced fisherman.
Visit the museum
Fort Hayes Museum is run by the Ascension Island Heritage Society, and is well worth a visit. It is packed with
information, photographs, historical facts and hands on things for the kids.
From the road to the side of the Saints Club, heading towards the pier, the museum is sign posted to the left.
Follow down the hill and the main museum building is on the left. On the right is Fort Hayes itself and part of the
museum is under it.
Visit a fumerole
Fumeroles are formed when large air pockets appear in red hot lava as a volcano erupts. When the lava cools a
fumerole, or cave, is created. There are many fumeroles and caves around the island to explore. A good one to
visit with kids is the fumerole behind Command Hill, as it is easy to find and fairly easy walking to get to it. The
reception at the Obsidian Hotel holds a folder that is full of fumeroles to visit and maps how to get there.
Go diving (experienced divers only)
The diving conditions are usually excellent with clear warm water and a wide variety of marine life. Sea conditions
are particularly variable from November to May. Large swells can build up which can make diving impossible.
There are no rescue or hypabaric facilities on the island, so safety is paramount, with divers having to take full
responsibility for their actions. Conservative dive profiles, safety stops and voluntary depth limits make sense
when the nearest recompression chamber is at least eight hours flight away.
Gym
The gym at Travellers Hill is well equipped with squash court, cycling machines and weight training equipment.
Various sports happen on a regular basis and anyone can join in, extra bodies always welcome!
Tennis
There are tennis courts in Two Boats Village and the American base. All these courts are free to use.
Swimming pools
In Georgetown there is a small saltwater swimming pool that is open all day, but there is no lifeguard. Head
towards the pier and as you reach the bottom of the hill turn right. About 150 metres on your right you will find
the pool. It is free to use.
At Two Boats Village there is a fresh water swimming pool situated behind the Two Boats Club that is free to use.
There is no lifeguard and entry is gained via a keypad on the gate. The entry code is 231. The pool at Travellers Hill
is for the more serious swimmer. There are sun loungers round the pool and there is a lifeguard. Access is limited
- time can vary so check once you are in Ascension.
Golf
Golf is a very popular game in Ascension. The 18 hole golf course at One Boat (about half way between
Georgetown and Two Boats) offers a unique environment to play golf. The “greens” are called “browns” and are
made of crushed compacted lava smoothed flat with diesel oil and around the edges of the fairways large
boulders of volcanic rock can be found. It is a very challenging course and it is recommended that you play with a
local who is familiar with the course.
The golf course is open 7 days a week. The cost is £2.50* for a 9 hole game and £5.00* for a full round. There is a
friendly match played every Thursday afternoon, which anyone can join in. * Prices are subject to change.
Note: You must provide your own golf clubs or try the gym at Travellers Hill who may have spare clubs