Challenging the King of Containers Does Tupperware still rule the refrigerator when it comes to storing leftovers? C jBY ADAM RIED AND INDIA KOOPMAN k irca 1950, leftovers were stored in Tupperware . . . period. Today, some 50 years later, you can store leftovers in any number of containers made from plastic, glass, or metal that include features such as vacuum sealing, stain resistance, locking lids, and special venting. For a device as seemingly simple as a food storage container, the variety can be daunting. We wanted to find out if any of the newer models offered a higher level of protection for your food, more useful features, or significantly better design than the time-honored “King of Containers.” P HOTOG R A P H Y: VA N ACK E R E Sink or Swim, Stink or Stain? the containers for three days, microwaving it to serving temperature (about three minutes), and then immediately running the containers through the dishwasher. Last, to replicate the ravages of time, we ran the containers through 100 cycles in the dishwasher and then repeated every test. Pretenders to the Throne Our lineup of 12 containers (plus one, see “Containers Pulling Double Duty,” below) included Tupperware, two Rubbermaid models (Seal’n Saver and Stain Shield), several competing plastic containers, two inexpensive disposable containers, two vacuum-sealing models, and models made from ovensafe glass and metal. The Genius VakSet container, with its pumpoperated vacuum seal, performed impressively in the sink, shake, and stink tests, both when it was brand new and after 100 washes. Nonetheless, we have reservations about it, owing largely to the extra step of pumping. Some testers considered this to be a hassle, and some found the vacuum release system to be confusing. The good news is that several other containers with tight-fitting lids, particularly the Tupperware, both Rubbermaid models, and the Tramontina stainless steel, held their own against the vice grip of the Genius. The stink tests produced no clear pattern “Food storage containers?” grimaced one test kitchen skeptic. “Just how do you rate those?” After much discussion, we came up with several reliable, if slightly unconventional, methods to test the seal between the container and its lid. The “sink test” was first. We filled each container with 21⁄4 pounds of pie weights topped with a layer of sugar, and, with the lid in place, submerged the whole thing in water. Then we fished out the container, dried it, and inspected the sugar inside. Wet spots were immediately obvious because the sugar clumped. To further assess the seal, we devised the “shake test.” We filled each container with 2 cups of canned chicken barley soup, fixed the lid in place, and shook vigorously. If we ended up Stress Tests for Containers wearing soup, the seal wasn’t tight enough. Preventing the transfer of food odors is also the job of the seal between container and lid. After all, you don’t want your last few bites of chocolate mousse to smell like the anchovies next to it in the fridge, do you? To gauge odor protection, we conducted “stink tests” by loading slices of white sandwich bread into each container, closing the lid, and stor- These photos were taken in the test kitchen while we performed stress ing them all in the fridge with a tests on the containers. The Waist Flip (left): This stress test involved huge, uncovered bowl of diced tripping as we carried the containers to send them flying from chest height. raw onions. Over the course of In several cases, the lid came off as the container somersaulted through five days, we sniffed the bread the air. This container managed to survive the flip test and was caught by daily to see if we could detect the tarp we had rigged up to “catch” the containers. The Counter Drop (right): This stress test involved knocking containers filled with chili off the any onion scent. We chose chili to test stain counter to see if the lid would stay affixed. This container failed miserably, resistance, refrigerating it in sending chili flying all over the tarp we had set up to protect the floor. SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 25 2003 among the odor control champs, including the Genius, GladWare, Tupperware, Tramontina, Betty Crocker, and the Rubbermaid Seal’n Saver, which just edged out the Rubbermaid Stain Shield. The Pyrex glass container was a loser in both the stink and sink tests. Clearly, the container and lid did not form a tight seal. The results of the staining tests, on the other hand, did reveal a pattern. The winners were made of the hardest materials. The glass Pyrex and stainless steel Tramontina containers proved stain resistant, though the same cannot be said of the latter’s plastic lid. Among the plastic containers, those made from hard, clear polycarbonate (the same material used for lightweight eyeglass lenses and compact disks), including the Tupperware, Rubbermaid Stain Shield, Genius, and Snapware, resisted stains best in our tests. The remaining plastic containers were made of polypropylene, Containers Pulling Double Duty We all do it. Most of our test kitchen staffers do it (in the privacy of their home kitchens, of course). And we bet you do it, too. We’re talking about storing leftovers in containers once used as packaging for store-bought foods. Take the yogurt container, for instance. Most everyone we asked admitted to saving one or two old yogurt (or sour cream) containers in which to stash odd morsels of this and that in the fridge. This practice naturally begs a question, though: How well will a yogurt container serve you, especially when compared with fancier receptacles designed specifically for this purpose? We put a yogurt container through our full battery of tests and can report that it makes a perfectly serviceable choice when the swankier containers are occupied. The seal held strong, preventing leaks in nearly all of the tests and staving off the invasion of unwelcome food odors when new (its ability to block food odors was compromised after 100 trips through the dishwasher). Though it did stain from the chili and go disturbingly soft and squishy in the microwave (it did not melt or become misshapen, however), we found that a yogurt container does just fine when it comes to basic food storage tasks. —A.R. and I.K. F I N E I N A P I N CH This 1-quart container held its own among stiff competition, but don’t drop it and expect to salvage the contents. which, according to Rob Krebs, a spokesperson for the American Plastics Council, is a somewhat softer polymer that seems more susceptible to staining, as we observed in our tests. The Throne Is Secure To our surprise, several containers matched or surpassed the performance of the reigning king, Tupperware. Strictly speaking, the vacuum-sealed Genius VakSet edged out the Tupperware by one point in the performance tests. Despite this stellar performance, we’re still not sold on it. We fear that some cooks will lose the pump, rendering the containers useless. Also, no one in our test kitchen could figure out how to release the vacuum seal without first reading the instruction manual. To put it plainly, throwing leftovers into the fridge shouldn’t be any hassle at all. With the Genius, it is. That’s why our nod goes to the Tupperware, followed closely by the two Rubbermaid models. Their performance was excellent, and you don’t have to think twice to use them. If you want something more high-tech, the Genius is your container. Stress Tests for Containers Our testing procedures had produced some clear winners—at least according to fairly normal kitchen conditions. But what about when things go wrong? Cooks and their equipment face a constant barrage of bumps, bashes, falls, wallops, and, well, abuse. To evaluate how our containers would fare under unfortunate but common circumstances, we intentionally dropped them in three different ways designed to replicate the types of accidents that take place in home kitchens every day. We dubbed them the “stress tests.” We knocked chili-filled containers off the edge of a counter; stumbled while carrying the containers so as to flip them over from waist height; and dropped the containers, frozen and filled with a solid block of ice, from chest height, as if the container had slipped out of our hands while pulling it from the freezer. Not a single contender survived these unusual tests unscathed, so we did not factor them into the containers’ overall ratings. We will say this, however: These tests taught us to handle our food storage containers with care, especially when they’re full. Stress Test Scores The durability rating is an average of the scores the containers received on three stress tests: the counter drop, the waist flip, and the freezer drop. The highest scores went to containers that bore no sign of damage and whose lids remained firmly sealed, thus protecting the contents. Tramontina Stainless Steel Gourmet Collection D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Lid popped off completely in freezer drop, but neither it nor container was damaged. Rubbermaid Seal’n Saver D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : In freezer drop, lid stayed in place, but container cracked. Crack became almost seamless with lid on, but we wouldn’t trust it to hold liquids. Rubbermaid Stain Shield D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Lid separated from container in freezer drop, but neither lid nor container was damaged. Betty Crocker Servables D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : In freezer drop, lid remained on container, but container itself cracked in two spots. Sterilite Ultra Seal D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Undone by freezer drop. Lid popped off, and big pieces broke off container, which cracked badly. Genius VakSet D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Handles broke off in counter drop and flip tests, but seal held tightly in both instances. Lid separated completely from container in freezer drop test, but neither was damaged. GladWare Containers D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : T H E F R E E Z E R D RO P We dropped containers filled with a solid block of ice from chest height to simulate a common kitchen accident—a container falling out of the freezer. Several containers, like the one shown here, sustained serious damage. Leaked bit of chili in flip test and picked up hole in freezer drop test. Pyrex Storage Plus D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Though glass did not break in counter drop, lid came loose and small amount of chili oozed out. Snapware Snap N’ Serve D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : This “guaranteed unbreakable” container failed counter drop test. Piece of lid broke off, and small amount (about 1⁄ 4 cup) of chili spilled out. Tupperware Rock ’N Serve D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Bombed counter drop test, covering everything with chili. Lid separated partially from container in freezer drop, but no damage to it or container. Ziploc Containers D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Lid popped off and chili spilled out in counter drop. Sustained worst damage of any container in freezer drop. SK Enterprises Vacuum Seal D U R A B I L I T Y: CO M M E N TS : Counter drop test was total mess: chili everywhere. Vacuum-seal mechanism broke in freezer drop. COOK’S ILLUSTRATED 26 How We Performed Our Tests These criteria apply to the chart on page 27. We tested 12 food storage containers, all with a capacity of about 2 quarts and a square or rectangular shape. Whenever possible, we chose containers available singly from open stock, but in some instances we had to purchase sets. Containers are listed in order of preference based on the ratings they earned for performance when new, performance after 100 trips through the dishwasher (used) in the testing labs at Consumer Reports, and design. PRICE: Prices paid in Boston-area stores, in national mail-order catalogs, and on Web sites. MATERIAL: Primary material from which the container itself is made. DISHWASHER INSTRUCTIONS: Manufacturer’s recommendations regarding washing. SPECIAL NOTES: Important notes on use or care. PERFORMANCE, NEW: We performed four tests on each brand-new container to determine the quality of the seal between container and lid, the resistance of the sealed container to food odors, and the resistance of the container to staining. To test the seal between container and lid, we filled the container with soup, affixed the lid, and shook vigorously. Containers that did not leak were rated good. In a second seal test, we filled the containers with pie weights and enough granulated sugar (which clumped when moistened) to cover the weights and submerged the containers in water for 2 minutes. Containers that did not leak were rated good. To test for odor protection, we filled the containers with sliced bread and placed them in the refrigerator next to a large, open bowl of diced onions for several days. We opened the containers daily to smell the bread. Containers that protected the bread from onion odor for 5 days were rated good. Finally, we tested stain resistance by storing chili in each container for 3 days, heating it in a microwave oven to hot serving temperature, emptying the container, and running it through one dishwasher cycle immediately afterward. Containers that showed no staining were rated good. PERFORMANCE, USED: To help us determine how seal, odor protection, and stain resistance change with use, technicians from the testing laboratories at Consumer Reports put each container and lid through 100 cycles in the dishwasher, per the manufacturer’s washing instructions (if any). Back in the Cook’s Illustrated test kitchen, we then repeated each of the four tests outlined in the “Performance, New,” section above on the “used” containers. DESIGN: During the course of testing, it became clear that certain design features—such as handles or a wide rim for easy carrying and lids flat enough to allow other items to be stacked on top—make containers easier to work with. Containers with either handles or a rim and with flat lids were rated good. TESTERS’ COMMENTS: These comments augment the information in the chart. RATINGS GOOD: RATING FOOD STORAGE CONTAINERS FAIR: POOR: Brand H I G H LY R E CO M M E N D E D Testing Criteria Tupperware Rock ’N Serve Medium Deep Container M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polycarbonate D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : None S P E C I A L N OT E S : Open vent in lid to microwave Rubbermaid Stain Shield Square Container MATERIAL: Plastic/polycarbonate-derived resin D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Vent lid to microwave Genius VakSet: Four Vacuum S P E C I A L N OT E S : $12.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $4.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : $57.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : Impressive performance comes with some caveats: hassle factor of extra pumping step; vacuum-release method, which some may find unintuitive; containers rendered essentially useless if pump is lost. PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $4.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $3.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : Decent, easy-handling container that didn’t stand up too well to submersion and staining tests. So don’t sink it, and store tomato products in another container. PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $2.89 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $2.99 T E ST E R S ’ C O M M E N TS : Only odor protection was truly subpar; bread smelled like onions at end of day one. We’re not crazy about flimsy feel and lack of handles or rim, but you can’t argue with this container’s performance. Stained less after 100 washings than when brand new. PRICE: $3.29 T E ST E R S ’ C O M M E N TS : PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $19.97 T E ST E R S ’ C O M M E N TS : Cracked during 100 dishwasher cycles, which impaired seal in submersion and odor protection tests. Has handles, but too small to help much when moving container hot from microwave. We’re concerned about durability. PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $29.75 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : Despite good performance on virtually all tests because of its superhero seal, testers found it so difficult to affix lid to container securely (and, occasionally, to remove it, too) that we would avoid this model. Besides that, it’s not microwave safe. PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $5.99 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: $19.94 T E ST E R S ’ CO M M E N TS : Vacuum mechanism seemed flimsy and fussy to operate. It failed us occasionally, especially if fine food particles such as sugar got into seal. Then, midway through testing, mechanism broke and never worked again. P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polycarbonate D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : None Well designed (handles, flat lid, vent for microwaving), with performance almost to match. We’re concerned about durability, though, as cracks developed during 100 dishwasher cycles. These cracks caused leaking during a second submersion test. Some testers found it tricky to seal at first. PRICE: P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: PRICE: Storage Containers with Pump Testers’ Comments Handsome, sturdy container with wide rim for easy handling. Lives up to marketing claims of stain resistance. Odor control performance not perfect, though. Lid cannot be microwaved Rubbermaid Seal’n Saver M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : None Staining was only problem encountered in this sturdy container with excellent seal. R E CO M M E N D E D W I T H R E S E R VAT I O N S Betty Crocker Servables Container MATERIAL: Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Vent lid to microwave GladWare Containers/Deep Dish Size (pkg. of 3) M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Vent lid to microwave Ziploc Brand Containers/Large Rectangle (pkg. of 2) M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Vent lid to microwave Sterilite Ultra Seal P E R F O R M A N C E , N E W: PERFORMANCE, USED: DESIGN: M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : None S P E C I A L N OT E S : Vent lid to microwave Snapware Snap N’ Serve: Clear Stainproof Six-Piece Food Storage Container Set M AT E R I A L : Plastic/Polycarbonate D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : None S P E C I A L N OT E S : Guaranteed unbreakable Despite some staining and minor leaking, good overall performer, which surprised us given its flimsy feel. We were shocked that its performance improved after 100 washings, particularly in shaking test. A good value. We were stunned that performance improved with use, but it did. Less leakage, less staining, and better odor protection after 100 dishwasher cycles. N OT R E CO M M E N D E D Tramontina Stainless Steel Gourmet Collection Storage Containers M AT E R I A L : Stainless steel D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Lid is top rack–safe only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Not microwave-safe P HOTOG R A P H Y: VA N ACK E R E Pyrex Storage Plus/Rectangle Dish with Lid MATERIAL: Ovenproof glass D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : Top rack only S P E C I A L N OT E S : Avoid severe temperature changes SK Enterprises: Vacuum Seal Storage Containers (set of 3) M AT E R I A L : Plastic/polypropylene D I S H WA S H E R I N ST R U C T I O N S : None S P E C I A L N OT E S : Lid lever must be “up” to microwave SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 27 2003 Stain resistant for sure, but also heavy and hard to handle when hot. Seals poorly. Odor protection was minimal, and we wouldn’t store liquids in it.
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