SUPPLIES:
A note about interfacing: You are free to
interface your bag as you wish however I would
suggest following my recommendations as much
as possible for this bag to facilitate the assembly
of the bottom and seam binding.
Exterior fabric:
1/2 yard quilt weight cotton accent fabric
1/2 yard quilt weight main fabric
SEWING TIPS:
Lining fabric:
PLEASE READ ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE STARTING
Backstitching: Backstitching is sewing in
forward and reverse over the same set of stitches
to lock them at the end of a line of sewing.
1 yard quilt weight cotton
Interfacing:
2.5 yards lightweight fusible
1 yard fusible fleece
14” x 3.5” piece of Peltex or similar heavyweight
interfacing
WST/WS: an abbreviation that stands for Wrong
Side Together OR Wrong Side which indicates
which way the fabric should face.
Notions and supplies:
RST/RS: an abbreviation that stands for Right
(1) 7” zipper
(1) 22” zipper (or longer)
(2) 1” triangle rings
(4) 1” D-rings
(2) 1” swivel clasps
(2) 1” rectangle slides
double sided tape (DST)
Side Together OR Right Side which indicates
which way the fabric should face.
Basting Stitch: Sewing using a longer stitch
length. I usually use a stitch length of 4.
Seam Allowance: Seam allowance is always
3/8 inch unless specified otherwise. Zipper installation seam allowance is usually 1/4 inch when
using a zipper foot attachment. All seam
allowances are included in pattern pieces.
Selecting your hardware: To allow the Calla backpack to easily convert from a shoulder bag to a
backpack, you will need to be certain that you
select the appropriate hardware. I have prepared
a short video to show you how the Calla backpack converts from a shoulder bag to a backpack
and how to select the appropriate hardware for
the pattern.
PATTERN PIECES:
Before you begin, print out the pattern pieces
at the end of this document on regular 8.5 x 11
size paper with scaling set to “none” or “100%”.
Cut out. You will need to tape together the Main
Panel A, Top Band B, Bottom Band C, Lining E
and Zippered Pocket G pieces together at the red
lines matching the symbols. Cut out zipper opening guide box from Zippered Pocket G piece.
https://youtu.be/48Z6bUPLqG8
CUTTING:
IMPORTANT: When cutting Main Panel A, Top
Band B and Bottom Band C pieces, you will
be cutting sets of mirror images. Each of these
pattern pieces has been marked with “Zipper
side” and “Angled side”. It is VERY important
to keep the mirror image sets separate. I highly
recommend keeping them in 2 separate piles,
one marked FRONT PANEL and one called BACK
PANEL. The FRONT PANEL pile should have the
1
“Zipper side” on the right and the BACK PANEL
side will have the “Zipper side” on the left.
For Zipper Tabs, cut (2) 1.5” W x 3” L in Exterior
fabric and Fusible interfacing
For Bias Tape Binding, please follow instructions
in following section or use pre-made 1/2” double
fold binding.
PREPARING YOUR BINDING:
FRONT PANEL
For Bias binding, you will need to prepare at
least 30” of single fold binding that is 1.25”
wide. To do this cut your fabric on a 45 degree
angle in strips 2.5” wide. Most cutting mats provide guide lines to do this.
BACK PANEL
From Main Panel A, Top Band B and Bottom Band
C, cut the following:
(1) set mirror image from Exterior fabric
(1) set mirror image from Fusible interfacing
From Bottom D, cut the following on the fold:
(1) Exterior fabric
(1) Lining fabric
(1) Fusible interfacing
From Bottom D Interfacing, cut (1) Peltex on fold
You will likely need to stitch together 2 strips
of fabric to get a single piece at least 30” long.
To do this, pin them RST at a 90 degree angle.
Using the red line as a guide, stitch the strips
together.
From Lining E, cut the following:
(1) set mirror image from Lining fabric
(1) set mirror image from Fusible Interfacing
(1) set mirror image from Fusible fleece
From Accordion Gusset F, cut the following
(2) sets mirror image from Lining fabric
(1) set mirror image from Fusible interfacing
From Zippered Pocket G, cut the following:
(2) Lining fabric
(2) Fusible interfacing
For Slip Pocket, cut to dimensions 10” W x 7” H,
(2) Lining fabric and (2) Fusible interfacing
Press seam allowance open.
For D-ring straps and Handle, cut (1) 4” w x 26” L
in Exterior fabric and Fusible interfacing
For Adjustable straps, cut (2) 4” W x 44” L in
Exterior fabric and Fusible interfacing
2
Trim the ends of your tape so the edges are
straight and then fold in and press 1/2” of ONE
end towards the WS.
Fuse interfacing to WS of Bottom D Lining pieces.
Fuse interfacing to WS of both Lining E pieces.
Fuse interfacing to WS of (1) piece from each set
of mirror image Accordion Gusset F pieces.
Fuse interfacing to WS of both Zippered Pocket G
pieces.
Fold the bias tape in half WST along the longer
side and press. Set aside for now.
Fuse interfacing to WS of both Slip Pocket pieces.
INTERFACING:
For Main Panel A, Top Band B and Bottom Band
C, fuse interfacing to WS of all pieces making
sure you have angled and zipper sides correct.
Fuse corresponding interfacing to WS of D-ring
strap/Handle piece as well as both adjustable
straps.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you do not mix up your
FRONT and BACK panel sets while interfacing!
Fuse interfacing to WS of both Zipper Tabs.
STRAP ASSEMBLY:
You will be adding Fusible fleece panels (cut from
Lining E) during Exterior Assembly section.
Place 2 strips of DST on the Peltex Bottom D
making sure to not get too close to the edges
(stay 1/2” away from edges).
Take one adjustable strap and fold in both shorter ends 1/2” towards WS. Press.
Peel off the backing from your DST and stick to
the WS of your Bottom C Exterior piece making
sure to leave an equal amount of space around
the edges. Stitch Peltex to bottom using longer
stitch length (3 - 3.5) as shown by black line in
photo above using a 1/4” seam allowance. Set
aside for now.
Fold strap in half WST along the entire length
and press to create a centre crease. Open up
strap and fold in both halves towards centre
crease WST and press again.
3
that is 1” W x 26” L. Stitch both longer sides of
the strap with a 1/8” seam allowance. You then
need to cut this strap piece as follows: (1) 8”
long for the handle and (6) 3” long for the D-ring
straps as shown in previous photo. Pass each 3”
strap piece through one of your rings (4 D-rings
and 2 triangle rings) and baste stitch the shorter
raw ends together. Set aside for now.
EXTERIOR ASSEMBLY:
Fold in half again along original crease and
press. You should end up with a strap that is 1”
wide x 43” L (approx.) Repeat for 2nd adjustable
strap.
2 inches
from side
2 inches
from side
Take your Top Band B (from the FRONT PANEL
pile) on your work surface and place your straps
with the triangle rings along the bottom edge
with each strap placed 2 inches from each side.
Leave 1/2” of the strap sticking out at the bottom. Baste stitch in place.
Stitch both adjustable straps around all 4 sides
with a 1/8” seam allowance. (add additional
stitching if you like). Set aside for now.
Place your Top Band B and Main Panel A RST
with the bottom edge of the Top Band aligned
with the top edge of Main Panel and pin together. Stitch together. Press seam allowance towards
the Main Panel (so your triangle rings point towards the top of the Top Band). Do not topstitch
the seam allowance yet.
To create your D-ring straps and handle, take
your remaining strap piece and iron it like you
did for the adjustable strap but omit folding in
the ends 1/2”. You should end up with a strap
4
Place your Bottom Band C (from the FRONT PANEL pile) on top of the assembled FRONT PANEL
and align the top edge of the Bottom Band with
the bottom edge of the Front Panel and pin in
place. Stitch together. Press seam allowance towards Bottom Band. Do not topstitch yet!
Topstitch the top seam allowance along the main
panel and topstitch the bottom seam allowance
along the bottom band.
Take your Top Band B from the BACK PANEL pile
and 2 D-ring straps and place them along the
bottom edge, also 2” from each side like the
FRONT PANEL pieces. Baste stitch in place. Then
take your Handle and place each end 1/2” from
the inner sides of your D-ring straps. Baste stitch
in place making sure the strap is not twisted.
Take both fusible fleece lining panels cut from
Lining E pattern piece and trim seam allowance
from the bottom edge and the curved zipper
edge.
Like you did for the FRONT PANEL pieces, pin
your Top Band to the Main Panel RST and stitch
in place. Press seam allowance towards Main
Panel making sure the D-rings point towards the
top of the Top Band.
Fuse fleece to WS of assembled FRONT PANEL.
5
opening on the WS of your pocket lining piece.
Take your partially assembled BACK PANEL and
the 2 remaining D-ring straps. Place them along
the bottom edge of the Main Panel but this time
place them 3” from each side (not 2” like the top
D-rings). Again, make sure they are sticking out
1/2” from the bottom. Baste stitch in place.
Take your assembled FRONT PANEL and place
your Zippered Pocket lining piece on top RST.
Centre it nicely on the main panel - there should
be 1/2” space at the sides of the zippered pocket
lining piece. Pin in place.
Like you did for the FRONT PANEL pieces, pin
your Bottom Band to the Main Panel RST and
stitch in place. Press seam allowance towards
Bottom Band making sure the D-rings point
towards the Main Panel. Press seam allowance
towards Bottom Band. Do not topstitch yet.
Fuse fleece to WS of assembled BACK PANEL and
then topstitch the top and bottom seam allowances exactly as you did for the FRONT PANEL.
Stitch all the way around the diagonal rectangle
using a smaller stitch length and keeping your
needle in the down position to help when turning corners. Draw a line through the centre of the
rectangle stopping 1/2” from both ends. Draw diagonal lines from that centre line to all 4 corners.
Take one Zippered Pocket G and using the pattern piece as a guide, trace out the zipper
6
Carefully cut out the lines you just drew inside
the rectangle being careful not to cut any of the
stitching at the 4 corners. To reduce bulk for your
zipper opening, carefully trim away some of the
fusible fleece on the WS as shown in previous
photo.
Place your 2nd Zippered Pocket lining piece RST
with the first and pin together. Stitch all the way
around, sewing the 2 lining pieces together.
You should now have 2 Exterior panels: 1 Front
Panel with 2 triangle rings and the zippered
pocket and 1 Back Panel with 2 D-rings at the
top and 2 D-rings at the bottom. Set aside for
now.
Pull your Zippered Pocket lining piece through the
opening you cut out towards the WS and carefully iron the opening of the rectangle so the seams
are nice and flat.
INTERIOR ASSEMBLY:
Place your 7” zipper RS up in the rectangle
opening and pin/glue in place. Stitch all the way
around the rectangle with a 1/8” seam allowance
to sew your zipper in place. (Note: I used an 8”
zipper which I will trim later)
Take your sets of mirror image Accordion Gusset
pieces and pin the matching pieces RST. Stitch
them together along 3 sides: the top, angled
side and bottom with 1/4” seam allowance. The
straight edge should remain unsewn.
7
Turn your Slip Pocket RS out and press seams
nice and flat. Topstitch the top edge.
Trim seam allowance at the corners.
Turn the Accordion Gussets RS out and press
seams nice and flat. Gently push out corners.
Topstitch seam allowance on all 3 sides. Set
aside for now.
Place your completed Slip Pocket RS up on your
Back Lining Panel also RS up (will have curve
at top right as shown in photo) and pin it centered 2 inches from the bottom edge. Stitch your
pocket in place along both sides and the bottom
leaving the top open.
Take your Slip Pocket lining pieces and pin RST.
Stitch all the way around leaving a 3” opening at
the bottom to turn RS out. Trim your seam allowance at the corners.
Fold Slip Pocket in half vertically and mark top
and bottom centre with a fabric pen.
8
FINAL ASSEMBLY:
Before you begin the final assembly, it is important to follow the instructions and be as precise
as possible when sewing the exterior and lining
panels to the zipper. The bottom edges of all 4
panels must line up as closely as possible.
Stitch from the bottom mark to the top mark
to separate your Slip Pocket into 2 separate
pockets. Make sure to backstitch to secure your
pocket’s opening.
Take your 22” zipper and lay it down on your
cutting board. Cut it at the 21.5” mark (measuring from the metal stops at the zipper opening).
NOTE: I am using a 24” zipper which is why my
cut piece is longer.
If you wish to add a zippered pocket to the other
Lining panel, you may do so now by following
this tutorial:
http://bluecallapatterns.com/blogs/sewingtutorials/45286469-tutorial-adding-an-internalzippered-pocket-in-a-bag
Place one zipper tab RS up on your work surface,
then place your zipper RS up on top of the tab
with the cut end of the zipper aligned with the
right shorter edge of the tab. Place 2nd zipper
tab on top WS up and pin all 3 layers together.
Stitch together on the right side as shown by line
in photo above.
Take both Lining Panels and place them RS up
on your work surface. Place your Accordion Gusset pieces along the side of your Lining panels
just beneath the curved top corner. Pin them
2 inches from the bottom edge (do not go any
lower or it will be difficult to sew them together
at the bottom!) Baste stitch in place along the
raw edges.
Press zipper tabs away from zipper and topstitch
seam allowance. Baste stitch the opposite short
end to prevent zipper tabs from shifting during
assembly.
9
Use a lot of pins and pin your zipper in place
along the zipper side. Clip your zipper tape a bit
less than 1/4” so it eases around the top curved
corner better.
Trim away excess zipper tabs along both longer
sides.
At the zipper opening, baste stitch the ends of
your zipper tape at a 45 degree angle.
Using your zipper foot attachment, baste the zipper in place with a 1/8” seam allowance.
Bottom edges must line up
Place your matching Exterior panel RST with the
Lining panel with attached zipper. Start by pinning the bottom corner on the zipper side. You
will want to make sure the bottom edges are
lining up as closely as possible.
Lay one Lining panel on your work surface RS up
and then lay your zipper along the top edge, also
RS up. Start by pinning the zipper opening at the
top corner on the angled side leaving 1/2” gap
between the corner and the zipper opening (see
photo).
10
Sides must line up
When topstitching along the zipper, do not start
at the very edge of your panels near the zipper
opening. As shown in photo above, start your
topstitching parallel to the metal stops of your
zipper opening.
Do the same now with the top left corner at the
zipper opening. Pin the corner first making sure
the Exterior and Lining panel sides line up.
Use a lot of pins and pin the rest of the Exterior
panel to the Lining panel/Zipper. Stitch together
with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Clip your seam allowance around the top corner
curve.
Topstitch along the rest of the zipper making sure
that your Accordion Gusset is laying flat against
the Lining panel, away from the zipper and topstitch over the Gusset as well.
Line up your seams
Repeat the same steps to attach the 2nd set of
Lining and Exterior panels to the zipper. Important: make sure the seams where your Top
and Bottom Bands attach to the Main Panel are
aligned for a beautiful final result. Use a lot of
pins to prevent shifting while sewing.
Turn your panels RS out and press the seam
allowance carefully on both sides. When ironing
the lining panel, make sure you iron the Accordion Gusset piece flat and away from the zipper.
11
making sure you are lining up the seams where
the bands have been attached to the main panel
line up nicely.
When you have attached the 2nd set of panels,
turn them RS out and press your seam allowance
on both sides. To help make this easier, open
your zipper all the way. Again, make sure your
Accordion Gusset is laying flat and away from
the zipper. Topstitch exactly like the first set of
panels.
When pinning the zipper seams together, open
up the seam allowance so it sits flat (this is why
we did not topstitch to the very edge!)
This is what you should have at this point. Trim
the excess Zipper tabs from the bottom.
Start stitching 1/2” above the zipper seams and
work your way to the bottom of the Exterior Panels.
Next step is to sew the angled sides together as
you would a typical zipper pouch. It is very difficult to sew both the Exterior and Lining panels
in one seam because of the construction so we
will begin by sewing the Exterior panels up to
the zipper. Pin the Exterior panels RST again
12
Now pin your Lining panels RST and stitch again
from 1/2” above the zipper seams down to the
bottom.
Next we will baste stitch the bottom edges together all the way around the bottom opening
to prevent our layers from shifting when attaching the bottom. Open up your side seams on
the angled side and pin them together. Continue
pinning the rest of the opening. I like to use a lot
of pins to prevent shifting and to make sure the
Exterior and Lining layers are evenly spread out.
Trim away some of the bulk at the zipper seams
and the top and bottom band seams.
Baste stitch around the bottom opening with a
1/4” seam allowance.
Turn the bag RS out and zip up the zipper. You
should have something like pictured. If you have
slight uneveness at the bottom edges, trim them
now. Now open your zipper half way and turn
your bag Lining side out.
Take your Bottom D Lining piece and fold in half
horizontally. Mark the centres on both rounded
edges with a fabric pen.
13
Pin/clip your Bottom D Lining piece to your
Bottom D Exterior piece WST. Use a lot of pins/
clips to prevent shifting. Baste stitch all the way
around with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Trim your seam allowance to 1/4” (remove 1/8”).
Place your Bottom D inside the bottom opening of your bag. Start by lining up the the centre
marks on the curved sides of Bottom D with the
angled side seam and the centre of the zipper
tab on the zipper side. Clip or pin. Now pin the
rest of the Bottom to the bag. You should have
the bag’s lining AND the Bottom D lining showing
as pictured below.
Take your bias tape binding and start by pinning
the end with the folded edge first. The raw edges
of your binding should align with the raw edges
of your bag’s bottom. Start in the middle of one
longer side. Do not pin the entire binding.
With a seam allowance of just under 1/4”, start
sewing your binding to the edge of your bottom
1” from the folded edge of your binding. You will
want to leave a bit of it loose to finish it off at
the end.
Using a regular stitch length and your regular
3/8” seam allowance, sew the bottom to your
bag. Go slowly and carefully as this will be your
actual exterior seam. I find it easier to sew the
corners if you’re sewing with the bag’s body on
the top. - this way you can easily push the body
of the bag out of the way as you turn the corners. Keep your needle in the down position!
14
Note: I know what you are thinking - why doesn’t
she sew with the bottom facing up so she can
sew inside her original seam. It’s too hard to sew
the curved ends. Trust me on this. :)
Turn your bag so you can see the bottom and
little by little, fold the binding over the raw edge
so it is encased and clip it in place. Continue until the entire raw edge of the bottom is encased
as pictured below.
When you’ve sewn all the way around and
you’ve returned to the folded edge of your binding, measure the end of your binding 1” past
the folded edge and cut off the rest of the bias
binding. You will be tucking this raw end inside
the folded end so make sure you don’t cut it too
long or too short.
Open up the end of your binding with the folded
edge to reveal the WS. Tuck the raw binding end
inside so it is encased completely. Finish sewing
the binding.
This time, you will sew with the bottom of your
bag facing up (Yes FINALLY!) again with a seam
allowance just a bit less than 1/4”. Use a coordinating thread so it doesn’t show (I’m using black
so you can see a contrast in the photos).
15
Lay your bag with the back panel facing up. Pass
one strap end (without the slider) through a bottom D-ring from the top towards the bottom of
the bag as pictured above.
Pin the angled sides of your Accordion Gussets
together and sew together making sure to backstitch. When you get to the narrow section at the
bottom, it is helpful to tuck your zipper inwards
towards the bag’s exterior. Turn your bag RS out
to attach straps.
FINAL STRAP ASSEMBLY:
Bring that same strap end up and pass it
through the slider.
For both adjustable straps, pass one end around
the middle bar of your slide and stitch in place.
Pass it through the top D-ring next.
16
To convert to a backpack, you simply un-clip the
swivels from the triangle rings on the front of the
bag, pass them through the top D-rings at the
back of the bag and clip the swivels to those top
D-rings as pictured below.
Pass that same strap end through the ring of one
swivel clasp, then fold over and stitch in place.
Now flip your bag with the front facing up and
clip your swivel onto the triangle ring on the
OPPOSITE side. Attach the 2nd adjustable strap
exactly the same way.
When attached correctly, your straps will cross
over each other at the top.
17
You’re Done!
I’d love to see your creations, make sure to use #CallaBackpack when
you share.
COPYRIGHT AND LICENSING INFORMATION
©2016 Blue Calla Creations. All Rights Reserved. Written permission is required to copy and or
distribute copies of this pattern or instructions. Celine is happy to allow products made from this
pattern by a home sewer to be sold. Please include a credit to all your online listings stating that
your item is made from a Blue Calla Creations pattern. A link to my Etsy pattern shop would be
appreciated. Patterns must be purchased retail and the items must be made by one person, in
their home. Mass Production is strictly prohibited and will result in a change to these policies.
CONTACT:
Bag and Purse Shop: http://bluecalla.etsy.com
Pattern Shop: http://bluecallapatterns.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Follow me on instagram! @bluecallacreations
Join my Blue Calla Patterns sewing group at:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/820874054675832/
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES:
Short video demonstration for the Calla Convertible backpack:
https://youtu.be/48Z6bUPLqG8
Hardware for the backpack can be purchased at:
http://emmalinebags.com
*** A Special thank you to Sheri Ferraro of Lil’ Munkee Designs for her help with this design!
angled side
1 inch
square
#
Cut 2 Exterior fabric (1 set mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing (1 set mirror image)
Main Panel A
Calla Convertible Backpack
@
*
#
1 inch
square
zipper side
@
%
1 inch
square
%
*
1 inch
square
angled side
1 inch
square
zipper side
Cut 2 Exterior fabric (1 set mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible interfacing (1 set mirror image)
Top Band B
Calla Convertible Backpack
angled side
1 inch
square
zipper side
Cut 2 Exterior Fabric (1 set mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing (1 set mirror image)
Bottom Band C
Calla Convertible Backpack
FOLD
Calla Convertible Backpack
Calla Convertible Backpack
Bottom D
Cut 1 Exterior fabric on fold
Cut 1 Lining fabric on fold
Cut 1 Fusible interfacing on fold
1 inch
square
Accordion Gusset F
Cut 4 Lining fabric (2 sets mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible interfacing (1 set mirror
image)
Calla Convertible Backpack
Lining E
Cut 2 Lining fabric (1 set mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible interfacing (1 set mirror image)
Cut 2 Fusible fleece (1 set mirror image)


1 inch
square


1 inch
square


1 inch
square


1 inch
square
1 inch
square
Calla Convertible Backpack
Zippered Pocket G
Cut 2 Lining fabric
Cut 2 Fusible interfacing
1 inch
square
FOLD
Calla Convertible Backpack
Bottom D Interfacing
Cut 1 Peltex on fold