YOUR
SKIN
SURGIC MAGAZINE
■ Cosmeceutics: what are they?
■ Do you know what you apply on your skin?
■ 5 Golden Guidelines for the use of cosmetics
COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICS
When Romans tried to conquer for the first time Britannia, the met unusual foes. They had face and body
colored with wide strips of colors such as grey, blue
or ocher… They named them Picts. Romans fought
The reason for this magazine
against this strong and warlike people for many ye-
is to offer a guide for the cor-
ars. They did not use make-up to be more beautiful
rect use of cosmetics. Surgic
(cosmetics means embellishment), but to show their
Magazine is not only a com-
membership to a specific clan. They also used colors
plete guide on products and
for communication (like American Indians).
their qualities, but also a tool
7000 years ago, Egyptians already used cosmetics.
to convince clients to require
Year after year more and more people around the
more transparency on what
world world
world started to use
they buy and more care for
cosmetic
their wellbeing; general well-
Why and when? The-
being, not only for skin, face
re were thousands of
or body. In every product a
reasons and occa-
woman use puts a special in-
sions: it could mean
gredient: her own personality.
war, mourning, ven-
Finally a woman talks about
these topics to other women.
Elena Nassimbeni
YOUR SKIN is distributed by
Queen Nefertari
products.
geance.
It could be used by actors, to strengthen their expressions, or it could be used by hunter-warriors to hide
from animals and foes. Funny is how the word we use
nowadays comes from the Greek word “kosmesis”,
Cosmeceutics s.r.l.,Via Tavagnacco 131/A,
which – guess what! – has the same root of Kosmos,
33100 UDINE, Italy. [email protected]
namely the supreme universal order.
Graphic: EXPANSION RSM
THE DERMO-AESTHETIC SURGEON
DOC.NICOLA PITTONI
Nicola Pittoni graduated in Medicine and Surgery and specialized in
Dermatology at the University of Padua - Italy. He completed his professional qualifications with a training in Brazil at Ivo Pitanguy Center
in Rio de Janeiro.
Thanks to the studies carried on with Doc. J. Klein (California) and Prof.
Fournier (Paris), he has become a specialist in the treatment of skin
cancer and one of the greatest Italian exponents in the field of Liposuction, developing a special personal technique of tumescent anesthesia.
He’s one of the first surgeons in Europe to successfully apply such local
tumescent anesthesia to face mini lifting. After years of continuous
research on face and neck skin rejuvenation, applying his background
on autologous fat transfer to the face, he has been contributing since
2003 to researches on skin bio-rejuvenation by the use of dermal derivatives and platelets factors. He works in Italy, Switzerland and England
in the field of Aesthetic Medicine and Surgery.
SurgicTouch® products are formulated following his directions.
Skin is the widest (2m² circa) and heaviest (3 kilos circa) organ covering human body. It forms a
barrier, protecting human organism from external
agents.
Its thickness is 2mm average and is divided into 3
layers: 1 – epidermis; 2 – dermis; 3 – hypodermis.
Epidermis: epidermis is the most superficial layer of
the skin. It is divided into 4 cellular stratums: basal,
spinous, granular and corneum. Cells were born in
the deepest layer , the basal one, step by step they
SKIN IS THE WIDES
ORGAN COVERING
reach the most superficial one.
The visible layer is the corneum one: it is the most
superficial layer of the epidermis and it is made of
dead cells in desquamation.
Dermis: dermis it the layer under the epidermis.
It is made of fibers called “collagen” and “elastin”.
They give skin its elasticity and resistance. These
fibers are in an amorphous gel, called ground substance, made of hyaluronic acid and other substances able to hold water and able to act as glue.
Dermis is highly vascularized and innerved. In this
layer you can find skin appendages, such as the
sweat glands and the pilosebaceous apparatus.
Hypodermis: hypodermis is the deepest and richest
in fat tissue layer. It has 2 main functions: it is a reserve of nutrients for the body; and it is a thermic
isolation.
Skin has different functions: protective, secretory,
thermoregulation, immune, sensory, protective:
the primary function of the skin is to protect the
underlying tissues (internal organs, muscles and
bones) from different stimulations, such as traumas,
EST AND HEAVIEST
NG HUMAN BODY
hits or external aggressions (from harmful agents
and pathogens).
Secretory function: skin, through sweating, regulates the secretion of electrolytes, such as sodium,
potassium, calcium and chlorine. Meanwhile it eliminates water, waste and sebum from the body.
Thermoregulatory function: skin regulates body
heat through blood flow to cutaneous vessels and
sweat glands.
Immune function: human body is constantly exposed to external agents, such as viruses and bacteria.
Every time this happens, skin begins a protection
continued from pages 4 and 5
process decided by different kind of cells, all of them
involved in the protective and immune function.
Sensory function: cutaneous innervation, thanks to
THE DERMO-AESTHETIC
SURGEON
DOC. NICOLA PITTONI
SUGGESTS:
TOTAL REMOVER
its receptor organs, is able to receive thermal, pressure and pain stimuli, conveying them to the central
nervous system, thus allowing the person to adapt to
external, surrounding conditions.
Skin has specific receptors for every external stimulus.
The passive permeability of the skin allows the penetration of only few substances, thus a cosmetic cannot
penetrate the skin completely.
Skin care starts with a correct cleansing, allowing a
perfect penetration of the actives.
Cleansing solution
make-up remover
no rinse
Total Remover is a isotonic solution that, is able to substitute
the action of cleansing milk and
tonic, while respecting skin natural perspiration.
It cleans the skin without leaving
residues, allowing the absorption of the actives contained in
cosmeceutical products. Total
Remover formula has been developed for natural hypersensitive skins or skins that have become hypersensitive because of
impure or allergenic cosmetics.
CLEANSING
The first step for skin care
Skin care starts with an adequate cleansing,
allowing the perfect penetration of the actives.
Nowadays we live surrounded by pollutants, chemical substances, smog and dirt,
that is the reason why an adequate cleansing is the pillar of beauty and epidermis
health.
Through cleansing you can remove impurities and sebum secretions from skin surface. A wrong cleansing can damage the
hydro-lipid film, namely the thin water and
sebum film, which works as a protective
barrier for the skin, causing insufficient
hydration.
The use of wrong products containing
silicones, petrolatum, parabens, synthetic
fragrances and colouring agents, leaving
occlusive residues on the skin, blocks the
penetration of the actives.
Do you know what you
apply on your
skin?
WHAT SUBSTANCES A COSMETIC SHOULD NOT CONTAIN
The correct understanding of INCI allows the consumer to
choose high quality products, free from silicones, parabens, petrolatum, synthetic colouring agents and fragrances and surfactants.
By Doc. Pittoni
The main difference among these sub-
They are not biodegradable. There are dif-
stances is their texture, varying from oily
ferent kinds of silicones such as: Dimethi-
to gummy textures. Thanks to their diffe-
cone, Cyclomethicone and Dimethiconol.
rent features they are widely used in the
They are widely contained in creams and
cosmetic field, being hydrophobic. Unlike
make-up products, making their texture
many vegetable oils they do not deteriora-
soft and silky.
te with the heat, which is often necessary
Their effect is temporary, they do not nou-
in cosmetic productions. They make the
rish the skin or hair, they film them, closing
product easy to apply because they avoid
epidermis and causing desquamation.
the creation of foam.
Be careful: silicone makes the texture of a
HOW TO RECOGNIZE SILICONES
product wonderful, it smoothes the skin
How to recognize products with silico-
surface, making it silky. This effect is just
nes? There are silicones in a cosmetic if in
an illusion.
the INCI you can read substances with a
name ending with the following suffixes:
-one, -siloxane or –silanol.
ANTI
AGE
Hyaluronic Acid
PURE JAL
Hyaluronic acid is an extracellular physiological
constituent of the ground substance of the connective tissue.
Hyaluronic acid leaves the skin firm and bright,
thanks to its ability to draw huge water quantities
from the deepest layers of the dermis.
Its use leads to a visible improvement of skin conditions. Pure Jal has an INCI of only
3 ingredients: water, hyaluronic acid and Arginine-Lysine polypeptide. It is therefore
pure.
Ascorbic Acid
TOTAVIT
Vitamin E
VIT.E
Vitamin C, or L-ascor-
Liposoluble vitamin with
bic, is the strongest
self-preservation
antioxidant vitamin of
It can be absorbed throu-
the skin. Vitamin C is
gh the skin, avoiding wa-
an effective anti-age
ter loss. Its main biological
active because it supports
collagen
syn-
thesis, it lightens the hyperpigmentation
and it has anti-inflammatory and photoprotective features.
feature.
functions are: antioxidant
action, it improves oxygen
use, guaranteeing a better
capillary circulation. It helps avoiding photoaging, inhibiting those damages leading to elastosis.
PERFECT NATURE
ANTARCTIC KELP ALGAE
Rich in vitamins, amino acids and natural minerals, iodine, iron, sodium, phosphorus and calcium, magnesium and
potassium. It has restoring and antiwrinkle features, it stimulates elastin
and fibronectin. This is one of the fundamental actives of Sustenium Cream.
Forms, Fragrances
and Flavours are
beauty ingredients.
Eat well and be beautiful
By Cristina Pilan
Great chefs already know this piece of news, which is rapidly spreading: a great dish depends on the quality of its ingredients.
Have passion while cooking, be careful and loving while choosing the ingredients and
while preparing a recipe, even if it is only a salad, a pasta with tomato sauce or an egg.
Enjoy it.
When you are happy, you feel more beautiful and when you feel beautiful, you are happier
as if a connection run between these emotions, positively affecting your mind and body.
Real beauty is often defined as “natural”, reflecting who you really are and what you eat.
Let your emotions drive you whenever you buy the ingredients for your great dish, give
COMING
SOON
yourself the time to buy them where you
know the quality is higher, this does not
mean that they are more expensive. Vegetables, for example, are often sold by
farmers, who picked them every morning
– according to weather conditions – from
their gardens. These products are much
SURGIC TOUCH FOR MAN
SurgicTouch® does not forget
man’s
cheaper than the city “V.I.P.” greengro-
world. More than ever men pay atten-
cer! We are in the middle of Spring and
tion to appearance and wellbeing.
Summer is approaching, these are the
SurgicTouch® is a fundamental ally for
best seasons to enjoy choosing the in-
those men who, despite many engage-
gredients of your recipes with the same
ments, do not give up the care of skin
attention you pay in choosing your anti-
and look.
age cream!
While preparing your dish, also think at
its “look”! Arrange it carefully, free the
artist your hiding in yourself, who loves
beauty in every expression!
Imagine yourself opening a snack, without enthusiasm, just to fill a void, imagine your gray uninteresting expression:
how sad!. Imagine yourself in a sunny
garden instead! Imagine to walk among
rows of tomatoes of every type: Plum,
Piccadilly, Heirloom, Roma, San Marzano
tomatoes; how many varieties! Tomato
is the Summer essence! Pick one, enjoy
the fragrance, bite it and feel the inten-
SurgicTouch® studied and is develo-
se flavor!If you love yourself, if you think
ping a specific cosmeceutical line just
your health and look are important, eat
for these men.
well!
zza che di concentrazione.
Food is a pleasure!
5 GOLDEN GUIDELINES
H E A LT H C O L U M N
The correct use of cosmetics starts from your teenage years.
The risks of using incorrectly or unsafe, expired products.
1
Not everybody is aware of what
2
For consumer protection, since
cosmetics contain. Clients often buy
1997 INCI (International Nomenclature
cosmetics for their brand, convinced of
of Cosmetic Ingredients) is required, na-
their quality and of the lack of harmful
mely the cosmetic ingredient list, expres-
substances.
sed according to standard nomenclature.
4
3
INCI allows to easily identify harmful
Be careful: this law help those co-
substances or allergens, before the product
smetic producers, that offer low quality
purchase. This list contains the ingredients
products because they want to save mo-
in descending order depending on their
ney. Those substances under 1% can be
quantity. Substances will be listed from the
inserted in the INCI in no particular order.
largest to the smallest quantities.
After the opening of the product , ingredients get in contact with air, starting a
slow process of degradation.
5
Beside INCI, the packaging of a cosmetic product must contain: PAO (period after
opening); expiration date (required if the product expires within 36 month); the content,
according to a specific unit; name of the distributor.
IN THE USE OF COSMETICS
R M
S t y l e
i s
d i f f e r e n t
H A I R C E U T I C S
evolution from formulation
D Y I N G
P L A N T S
natural colouring system based
on natural powders, selected in
Asia, Middle East and Latin America
Unique techniques and rituals for the Hair Stylist of your charm
www.hairceutic.com
IV copertina magazine SURGIC versione B eng.indd 1
24-05-2013 9:39:26