Welcome to The Society’s ‘A Tale of Two Rivers’ tasting.
Rivers have played a hugely important role in the history of wine,
both as arteries of trade and in helping shape the landscape to
provide the perfect canvas for the cultivation of wine.
In this tasting, we follow the paths of two of the greatest wine
rivers in the world – the Rhine and the Danube. Starting in the
Swiss Alps, the Rhine travels north through Austria, France and
Germany before flowing into the North Sea off the coast of the
Netherlands. Its influence was instrumental in establishing some
of Europe’s most influential wine regions such as Alsace, Pfalz
and the Rheingau.
The Danube, Europe’s second-longest river, starts its nearly 1,800
mile journey in south-west Germany before meandering through
Austria, Hungary, Serbia, Romania and Bulgaria, then into the
Black Sea.
The Society’s sweetness code:
White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9].
○ = white wine
● = red wine
S = screwcap closure
P = synthetic cork
A Suggested Tasting Order
White Wines
Wine No. 1, Muscat Réserve, Trimbach 2013
Wine No. 13, The Society’s Exhibition Grüner Veltliner 2013
Wine No. 15, Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Vom Urgestein
Kamptal 2013
Wine No. 8, Dry Riesling, Louis Guntrum 2013
Wine No. 20, Prince Ştirbey Tamâioasa Româneasca Sec 2013
Wine No. 17, Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian White 2013
Wine No. 2, Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2012
Wine No. 3, Pinot Gris Tradition, Hugel 2012
Wine No. 14, Bernhard Ott Der Ott Grüner Veltliner 2013
Wine No. 4, Riesling Réserve, Trimbach 2013
Wine No. 10, Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling Kabinett
2013
Wine No. 5, The Society’s Exhibition Alsace Gewurztraminer
2010
Wine No. 9, Neweier Riesling Alte Reben, Schloss Neuweier
2013
Wine No. 16, Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012
Wine No. 22, The Guardians MRV, Borovitza 2011
Wine No. 6, Gewurztraminer Vendage Tardive, Hugel 2007
Wine No. 19, Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2008 50cl
Red Wines
Wine No. 11, Kaiserstuhl Pinot Noir, Karl Johner 2011
Wine No. 12, Marienglas Spätbergunder Grosses Gewächs,
Aldinger 2012
Wine No. 18, Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian Red 2013
Wine No. 21, Prince Ştirbey Negru De Drâgâsani 2013
Wine No. 7, Pinot Noir Réserve Cuve 7, Trimbach 2011
The Rhine
Known as the ‘Rhein’ in Germany and the ‘Rhin’ in France, the
Rhine is one of Europe’s longest rivers and has played a vital role
throughout history, with its surround areas potential for wine
growing first exploited by the Holy Roman Empire. Today, most
of Germany’s vineyards owe their existence to the Rhine River,
with its signature grape variety, riesling, producing fuller and
richer wines than those found along the Mosel. In Alsace, the
majority of production is located south-west of Strasbourg around
the town of Colmar and the Rhine’s western tributary, Ill. Here
riesling is joined by a host of varieties including muscat, pinot
blanc, pinot gris and even pinot noir thanks to its warmer climate.
Alsace
1.
○ [1] Muscat Réserve, Trimbach 2013
From the house of Trimbach, founded in 1626, this is a delectable
bone-dry muscat showing typical grapy character and a floral
perfume. It’s ideal as an aperitif or with delicate Asian dishes.
Drink now until 2018. 12.5% P
ref AL11551
£12.50 bottle
£150 dozen
low stock
One of the most important features of rivers and bodies of water
is their absorption of heat. The heat from the day is stored by
rivers and lakes and is then radiated throughout the night, raising
temperatures and helping the grapes to ripen fully. In many cooler
regions this can be the make or break of a vintage. They also help
reduce spring frosts and can provide the morning mists required
for the onset of noble rot, producing the legendary sweet wines of
Alsace and Germany.
2.
○ [2] Pinot Blanc, Domaine Ginglinger 2012
Described as the ‘sunniest corner of Alsace’, Eguisheim, just
south of Colmar, has been home to Domaine Ginglinger since
1610. From their 13 hectares they produce this lovely soft, round
white with a hint of richness, attractive fruit and length.
Drink this year and next. 12.5%
ref AL11371
£10.50 bottle
£126 dozen
3.
○ [1] Pinot Gris Tradition, Hugel 2012
Coming from Hugel’s own vines in the town of Riquewihr northwest of Colmar this is a big, full-bodied, dry-style pinot gris that
can happily stand up to richer dishes such as duck confit.
Drink now until 2019. 14%
ref AL10961
£12.95 bottle
£155 dozen
Pinot gris is a relative of pinot noir that, when allowed to reach
full ripeness, can produce deep-coloured, rich white wines with
relatively low acidity and a heady perfume. Pinot blanc is a
variation on pinot gris that was thought to be chardonnay right up
until the end of the 19th century. It provides a halfway house
between refreshment and opulence with moderate structure and
acidity.
4.
○ [1] Riesling Réserve, Trimbach 2012
Trimbach’s ‘Réserve’ wine is the result of a rigorous selection of
fully ripe grapes from the Ribeauvillé region. A structured,
balanced wine, which is both fruity and subtle.
Drink now until 2021. 13%
ref AL11461
£14.95 bottle
£179 dozen
Alsace has the lowest average rainfall in France. This, combined
with the ban on irrigation in most of the country, means that soils
with good water retention are essential. On the higher, steeper
slopes of the Vosges mountains sandstone and granite dominate
producing wines with elegance, finesse, texture and a slight but
distinctive petrol aroma. The gentler slopes closer to the Rhine
have heavier clay and marl soils that provide higher levels of
water retention leading to wines with a broader palate and more
body.
5.
○ [2] The Society’s Exhibition Alsace Gewurztraminer
2010
Produced specifically for us by Hugel from the outstanding 2010
vintage where a combination of cool nights and a late harvest
preserved both fruit flavours and freshness. It’s off-dry, fullflavoured with a twist of lychee. Drink this year. 14%
ref AL10901
£13.95 bottle
£167 dozen
Hugel is one of the oldest and best-known wine producers in
Alsace, having been established in 1639, and is currently run by
the 12th and 13th generations of the family. Their plantings are
predominantly riesling and gewurztraminer, together with a little
pinot gris and pinot noir. The family pioneered the resurrection of
Alsace’s late-harvest wines and was instrumental in drawing up
the rigorous legal restrictions for the production of both Vendage
Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles styles.
6.
○ [7] Gewurztraminer Vendage Tardive, Hugel 2007
Rich, luscious late-harvest gewurztraminer taken from Hugel’s
own plot of vines at the heart of the grand cru Sporen vineyard.
It’s made from overripe grapes that have been affected by noble
rot giving the wine an orange-peel and honey character. Produced
in the greatest years only. Drink now until 2022. 12.5%
ref AL10861
£33.00 bottle
£396 dozen
low stock
7.
● Pinot Noir Réserve Cuve 7, Trimbach 2011
Very ripe-tasting Alsace pinot noir that is rich, full-flavoured,
round and deeply attractive. It’s the ideal partner for roast veal,
cooked meats and charcuterie. Drink this year and next. 13%
ref AL10141
£18.50 bottle
£222 dozen
low stock
Pinot noir is the only red variety permitted in Alsace and it
struggles to achieve a particularly deep colour in this northerly
climate. In the past, Alsace pinot noir was always light and fresh
with flavours of raspberry and cherry fruit. Recently the trend has
been to age in oak barrels, giving a more structured and complex
wine. This is certainly the case in warmer vintages such as 2011.
Germany
○ [2] Dry Riesling, Louis Guntrum 2013
8.
Bright, classic riesling from this Nierstein producer encompassing
a wide gamut of flavours unique to this wonderful grape. The
palate is zesty, peachy and mouthwatering with a touch of spritz,
amplifying its delicious flavours with precision and poise.
Drink this year and next. 12.5% S
ref GE8561
£8.95 bottle
£107 dozen
9.
○ [2] Neuweier Riesling Alte Reben, Schloss Neuweier
2012
Experience at Château La Tour de By and Zind-Humbrecht in
Alsace has stood new owner Robert Schätzle in good stead at
Schloss Neuweier. Here he produces full, dry riesling packed with
flavour from old vines dating back to the 12th century.
Drink now until 2019. 12% S
ref GE8601
£8.50 bottle
£102 dozen
Most of Germany’s best vineyards are on the steepest slopes
overlooking rivers such as the Rhine and the Mosel. Due to the
steepness of the vineyards and the huge variation in ripening
times in such a cool climate almost all vineyard sites are
cultivated by hand. Frequently, this involves the segregation of
grapes influenced by botrytis so as to achieve rot-free dry wine
and nobly rotten sweet wines from the same site.
10.
○ [3] Ruppertsberger Hoheburg Riesling Kabinett
2013
From the town of Ruppertsberg in Pfalz overlooking the Rhine.
The 2013 vintage had excellent harvest conditions meaning
riesling was picked at perfect ripeness. This wine shows lovely
fragrant fruit and full, rich flavour. Drink now until 2017. 10.5%
ref GE8251
£6.95 bottle
£83 dozen
11.
● Kaiserstuhl Pinot Noir, Karl Johner 2011
Full and generous Burgundian lookalike from the heart of Baden.
2011 was a warmer year than 2010 in Germany and this shows
excellent ripe strawberry-scented fruit with balancing freshness,
acidity and well integrated tannin. Drink now until 2017. 13% S
ref GE8651
£13.95 bottle
£167 dozen
Baden is Germany’s longest and southernmost wine region and
has the highest percentage of red wine plantings in the country at
over 40%. This is made possible by the warmer climate. Low
yields are encouraged, especially in top areas such as Kaiserstuhl
and Ortenau, to produce more concentrated and characterful
spätburgunder (also known as pinot noir).
12.
● Marienglas Spätbergunder Grosses Gewächs,
Aldinger 2012
Marienglas is a small site in the heart of the Untertürkheimer
Gips vineyard near Fellbach where the oldest vines are found.
Beautiful scented bouquet, silky texture and with a finesse that
rivals any classy Côte de Nuits Burgundy. Drink now until 2019.
13.5%
ref GE8631
£36.00 bottle
£432 dozen
The Danube
Also referred to as ‘The Donau’, the Danube River has played a
vital role in the settlement and political evolution of central and
south-eastern Europe. Its banks, lined with castles and fortresses,
formed the boundary between great empires and today see a
number of capital cities including Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade
taking full advantage of its trade routes. Its impact on wine shows
an amazing range of varieties and styles, from the cool-climate
grüner veltliner in Austria and the lusciously sweet Tokaji in
Hungary to the indigenous varieties of Romania, where wine has
been produced for over 6,000 years.
Austria
13.
○ [1] The Society’s Exhibition Grüner Veltliner 2013
From Austrian wine icon Willi Bründlmayer and blended from a
combination of young, terraced vineyards which give minerality,
and lower-placed, fertile soils that produce more expressive
grapes in their youth. It’s delicate and pure with smoky lemon
fruit and signature white pepper flavours.
Drink this year and next. 12.5% S
ref AA1381
£12.95 bottle
£155 dozen
Austria shares much of its wine customs with its northern
neighbour, Germany. However, since the mid 1980s, Austria has
fixed its attention on quality rather than quantity, with yields
averaging about 50 hectolitres per hectare – half those of
Germany and even less than Champagne. The majority of wines
are white and fuller-bodied than the German norm and the
production of fine red wine continues to increase in areas such as
Burgenland.
○ [2] Bernhard Ott Der Ott Grüner Veltliner 2013
14.
A delicious Austrian white made in a wonderfully expressive
style – plenty of pear, pepper, lemon and apple aromatics on the
nose that continue on the intense palate, balanced by fresh acidity.
Drink this year and next. 13% S
ref AA1631
£21.00 bottle
£252 dozen
low stock
15.
○ [1] Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Vom Urgestein
Kamptal 2013
Schloss Gobelsburg is the 40-hectare Kamptal estate of the
Cistercian monastery at Zwettl which has produced wine for over
800 years. This is a fine and elegant example of Austrian riesling
– bone-dry, perfectly poised and light on the palate.
Drink now until 2017. 12.5% S
ref AA1541
£11.95 bottle
£143 dozen
Grüner veltliner is Austria’s most planted grape variety and
accounts for almost one third of the total vineyard area, occupying
just over 17,000 hectares. It produces its best wines along the
banks of the Danube, where the vines are warmed by the heat
funnelled west along the valley from the Pannonian Plain. This
effect is most prominent in the regions of Wachau, Kamptal and
Kremstal. The majority of fine red wine is produced south-east of
Vienna around Lake Neusiedl in the Burgenland region.
16.
○ [3] Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012
From a vineyard site 450m above sea level where the soil is poor
and thin the vines are therefore forced to fight for nutrients and
push their roots into the bedrock. This, combined with the
warmer 2012 vintage, has produced riesling in a broader, richer
style with plenty of ripe lemon, pear and white-pepper spice.
Drink this year and next. 13%
ref AA1661
£19.50 bottle
£234 dozen
Hungary
17.
○ [2] Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian White 2013
Hilltop Estate overlooks the Danube north-west of Budapest and
has mastered the art of producing fresh, appetising whites from
native varieties. This blend of olasz riesling and királyleányka
shows an attractive wine with body, freshness and great
complexity for the price. Drink this year and next. 13.5% S
ref HU841
£6.25 bottle
£75 dozen
Hungary’s climate is essentially continental with predictably cold
winters and warm summers. The northerly latitude (on a par with
Burgundy) makes it ideally situated to produce aromatic and
semi-aromatic varieties such as muscat and riesling, while its
climate allows full ripening of thicker-skinner red varieties.
18.
● Hilltop Corvinus Hungarian Red 2013
From the same Estate in Neszmély this is a fruity and attractive
mix of the increasingly popular kékfrankos grape (the fresh and
spicy blaufränkisch of Austria) with some merlot to add
roundness to the flavour. Drink this year and next. 13% S
ref HU851
£6.50 bottle
£78 dozen
Although not directly linked to the main Danube, the town of
Tokaji is very much influence by neighbouring river, the Tisza,
which flows into the Donau in Serbia. The confluence of the
Tisza and Bodrog rivers, along with the warming effect of the
Carpathian mountains, results in a macroclimate of humid nights
and long, warm autumns, favouring the development of noble rot
and consequently the production of the legendary Tokaji Aszú.
19.
○ [6] Royal Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2008 50cl
One of the world’s most famous wines and the result of furmint
and hárslevelu grapes which are grown on volcanic soils in hot
summers and muggy autumns then barrel aged in deep, cool
cellars. The effect of noble rot gives the wine flavours of apricot,
honey, orange peel and spice. Drink now until 2020. 11.5%
ref HU721
£22.00 bottle
£264 dozen
low stock
Romania
20.
○ [2] Prince Ştirbey Tamâioasa Româneasca Sec 2013
Enchanting dry Romanian white from Princess Lleana –
granddaughter of Princess Maria Ştirbey – and husband, Baron
Jakob Kripp. Tamâioasa româneasca is a relative of the muscat
grape and in this instance produces a fragrant, refreshing white
wine ideal as an aperitif or with Asian cuisine.
Drink this year and next. 13%
ref RO101
£9.95 bottle
£119 dozen
Prince Ştirbey is located just outside of Drâgaşâni in the region of
Oltenia on the north bank of the Danube river. The vineyards in
this area date back to Roman times and stretch 35 miles over the
foothills of the Transylvanian Alps ranging from 200 to 500
metres in altitude. The climate here is temperate continental with
a Mediterranean influence suiting aromatic varieties such as
tamâioasa româneasca.
21.
● Prince Stirbey Negru De Drâgâşani 2013
Comparable to good, fully ripened Beaujolais for its intense spice,
crushed-blackberry bouquet and succulent soft fruit. Negru
simply means ‘black’ and drâgâşani is in the southern
Carpathians where the grape is cultivated.
Drink this year and next. 14.5%
ref RO111
£10.95 bottle
£131 dozen
low stock
Bulgaria
22.
○ [2] The Guardians MRV, Borovitza 2011
From the Borovitza winery in the hills above the Danube the
MRV is a Rhône-style blend of marsanne (60%), roussanne
(20%) and viognier (20%), fermented in stainless steel then aged
in used Bulgarian and American oak barrels for two years. The
result is a full-bodied, round, complex and characterful wine.
Drink now until 2018. 13%
ref BG141
£14.95 bottle
£179 dozen
Although situated on the Black Sea to the east, Bulgaria has a
dramatically continental climate. Summers are hot with
temperatures often as high as 40°C whilst winters can be as cold
as -25°C in some parts. The Danubian Plain runs from Vidin in
the north-west to Ruse, and is home to many of Bulgaria’s top
wineries including Borovitza. Due to the intense summer
temperatures the Danube plays a vital role in providing water for
irrigation throughout the vineyards.