Station 4: Moss Madness
Common name (Latin name): Juniper Haircap Moss (Polytrichum juniperinum), Electrified Cats’ Tail
Moss (Rhytidiadelphus triquetrus), Step Moss (Hylocomium splendens).
Interesting story or factoid:
Warning: Learning about mosses is not recommended for competitive trail runners. The more you learn
about these amazing organisms the harder it is to walk through a forest at more than a snail’s pace.
There are approximately 13,000 known species of moss. Today we will look at 3 of them.
Mosses employ a growing and reproducing strategy called “alternation of generations”, in which adults
and sperm/egg cells both develop into multicellular structures. In fact, what we think of as being moss
(the green growth) is actually multicellular sperm and egg cells. The “adult” moss structure is the small
stalk with the capsule on the end that is a seasonal occurrence. Inside the capsule are tiny dust-like
sperm and egg cells that will be blown by the wind to new growing locations. There the cells will divide
and grow into more moss.
Distribution:
Juniper Haircap Moss: This species is found throughout the world.
Electrified Cats’ Tail Moss: This species is found throughout the Northern hemisphere.
Step Moss: This species is found throughout the cooler regions of the Northern hemisphere as well as in
New Zealand.
Flower: Mosses do not technically have flowers. They employ a set of reproductive structures much
different than the flowers of vascular plants. In fact the moss “parents” do very little in assisting with
transfer of genetic information. The reproductive structures are found on the multi-cellular sperm and
egg. Mosses rely primarily on wind and water to assist in transporting their genetic information from
one individual to another. This limited means of transporting genetic material from male to female is
why moss individuals grow together in clumps and mats. The periodic stalk-like structures that appear
on top of the green moss are called sporophytes, and they can be considered the “adult” moss. Unlike
human adults, moss adults rely on their children to acquire nutrients and to provide them with an
elevated place to grow. Inside the capsule at the top of each sporophyte are dust-like particles that will
spread in the wind and grow into new mosses.
Growth habit and uses: Mosses have been put to a variety of imaginative uses by gardeners over the
years. Their ability to grow on soil-less surfaces makes them great for incorporating non-living structures
and shapes into your living garden. Because there are so many different mosses available, you can play
with different textures to create amazing patterns and looks. Moss has a way of making a garden look
more mature and established than it might actually be. The soft feel of moss can add a pleasant
component to a garden through the sense of touch. You may be tempted to create chair padding with
moss but keep in mind mosses are very good at staying moist and most are not tolerant of being
stepped or sat upon.
Growing requirements: Mosses do not have true roots or vascular tissue. They acquire all of their water
and nutrients directly through their leaves. Some mosses have limited vascular tissue in the center of
their stems that does transport water. Their roots do not contain vascular tissue, and their only function
is to anchor the moss in place. One of the most amazing features of mosses is their ability to become
dormant under extremely dry conditions, and remain in a dormant state until water becomes available.
Different moss species have different light requirements and often have a preference for a specific
growing substrate (rock, soil, log, or tree trunk).
Juniper Haircap Moss: Full sun to part shade, prefers bare mineral soil. This species is often one of the
first to colonize bare soils but is eventually overgrown by more aggressive species.
Electrified Cat’s Tail Moss: Part to full shade, grows on rocks, fallen logs, forest litter, and the bottom of
trees, prefers organic-rich substrates. Well drained sites.
Step Moss: Part to full shade, rocks and other hard surfaces as well as bare soil. Most frequently grows
on fine forest litter such as fallen branches and pine needles. Can form a dominant ground cover in
Western Red Cedar and Hemlock forests.
Propagation methods:
There are two primary methods for propagating moss; transplanting, and slurries. I would discourage
propagation from transplant because this generally involves removing lots of moss from its natural
setting, which is likely to have an adverse effect on other organisms that use the moss.
Creating moss slurry (we will be demonstrating how to make slurry):
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Choose and prepare your site: It is best to get a good feel for what kind of growing conditions
your chosen species of moss prefers. Walk around and look at how much light the naturally
growing patches receive and what substrates you find the moss growing on. Use this
information to guide your site selection or to determine which moss species would be best
suited for your site. If you are growing the moss on soil, you must remove the existing plants in
preparation for application of the slurry.
Collect moss fragments of your chosen species: If you collect small pieces over a large area you
will reduce the damage to the native moss you harvest because the moss patches will be able to
fill in again.
Blending the mixture: The most common mixtures call for either just water and moss, or water,
moss, and a thickener such as buttermilk. Some recipes call for the addition of clay or soil. Today
we will have water and buttermilk on hand that we can use. If you are growing moss on rocks or
other smooth surfaces, apparently the buttermilk or other thickener will help the slurry to stick
to the surface. Place your ingredients into the blender and blend.
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Applying the slurry: Paint or spread your slurry over the desired area. If you have mixed your
slurry with an adequate amount of moss fragments you should not require a very thick layer.
Growth and establishment: The moss fragments will first develop as a low growing green slime
before beginning to produce buds and leafy tissue. The moss must be kept moist during this
establishment period, which could be about 2 months. For this reason, the ideal time to
propagate mosses using this method is in the fall.
References:
http://bryophytes.science.oregonstate.edu/page32.htm
http://linnet.geog.ubc.ca/Atlas10/AtlasMosses.aspx?sciname=Rhytidiadelphus
triquetrus&redblue=Both&lifeform=9
http://linnet.geog.ubc.ca/Atlas10/AtlasMosses.aspx?sciname=Polytrichum
juniperinum&redblue=Both&lifeform=9
http://linnet.geog.ubc.ca/Atlas10/AtlasMosses.aspx?sciname=Hylocomium
splendens&redblue=Both&lifeform=9
Shaw, Cox, and Goffinet. Global Patterns of Moss Diversity: Taxonomic and Molecular Inferences.Taxon
Vol. 54, No. 2 (May, 2005), pp. 337-352