Coastal processes and coastal defences – a dominoes revision game Abrasion/corrasion The distance over water travelled by a wave. Arch The erosion of a cliff when rocks are flung by breaking waves against the cliff face. Attrition A column of rock left standing out at sea after wave erosion has separated it from the mainland. Backwash The process by which breaking waves compress pockets of air in cracks in a cliff. The pressure may cause the crack to widen, breaking off rock. Lagoon A type of erosion caused when rocks and boulders transported by waves bump into each other and break up into smaller pieces. Hydraulic wave action A former bay cut off from the sea by a bar. Beach replenishment The return of water back to the sea after waves break on a beach. Constructive waves The addition of new material to a beach naturally, through the action of longshore drift, or man-made addition, through the dumping of large amounts of material. Longshore drift These waves are found on low-angled beaches. They are gently breaking with a much stronger swash than backwash. Destructive waves Waves approaching the coast at an angle result in the gradual zigzag movement of beach materials along the coast. © www.teachitgeography.co.uk 2012 18254 Page 1 of 4 Coastal processes and coastal defences – a dominoes revision game Managed retreat A built structure, often with an inner curve. Its aim is to prevent erosion of the coast by providing a barrier which reflects wave energy back out to sea. Revetments These waves are found on steep beaches, are steeply breaking and are mainly responsible for coastal erosion. Their backwash is much stronger than their swash. Groyne Allowing cliff erosion to occur naturally without trying to stop it, and thus allowing the coast to retreat inland. Sea wall Coastal defences made from wood, steel, or concrete fencelike structures which absorb wave energy as they pass through. Swash The area between low and high tide where wave erosion is most effective. Stack A long, narrow stretch of sand and shingle, formed by longshore drift, which juts out into the water. Spit A wave-eroded passage through a small headland, which cuts out to the other side. Daylight can be seen through it. Wave attack zone A wooden barrier built out into the sea to stop the longshore drift of sand and shingle, and so cause the beach to grow. Fetch Steel wire mesh filled with boulders, used in coastal defences to absorb wave energy. Gabion The forward movement of a wave up a beach. © www.teachitgeography.co.uk 2012 18254 Page 2 of 4 Coastal processes and coastal defences – a dominoes revision game Answers Abrasion/corrasion The erosion of a cliff when rocks are flung by breaking waves against the cliff face. Arch A wave-eroded passage through a small headland, which cuts out to the other side. Daylight can be seen through it. Attrition A type of erosion caused when rocks and boulders transported by waves bump into each other and break up into smaller pieces. Backwash The return of water back to the sea after waves break on a beach. Beach replenishment The addition of new material to a beach naturally, through the action of longshore drift, or man-made addition, through the dumping of large amounts of material. Constructive waves These waves are found on low-angled beaches. They are gently breaking with a much stronger swash than backwash. Destructive waves These waves are found on steep beaches, are steeply breaking and are mainly responsible for coastal erosion. Their backwash is much stronger than their swash. Fetch The distance over water travelled by a wave. Gabion Steel wire mesh filled with boulders, used in coastal defences to absorb wave energy. Groyne A wooden barrier built out into the sea to stop the long shore drift of sand and shingle, and so cause the beach to grow. Hydraulic wave action The process by which breaking waves compress pockets of air in cracks in a cliff. The pressure may cause the crack to widen, breaking off rock. Lagoon A former bay cut off from the sea by a bar. © www.teachitgeography.co.uk 2012 18254 Page 3 of 4 Coastal processes and coastal defences – a dominoes revision game Longshore drift Waves approaching the coast at an angle result in the gradual zigzag movement of beach materials along the coast. Managed retreat Allowing cliff erosion to occur naturally without trying to stop it, and thus allowing the coast to retreat inland. Revetments Coastal defences made from wood, steel, or concrete fencelike structures which absorb wave energy as they pass through. Sea wall A built structure, often with an inner curve. Its aim is to prevent erosion of the coast by providing a barrier which reflects wave energy back out to sea. Spit A long, narrow stretch of sand and shingle, formed by longshore drift, which juts out into the water. Stack A column of rock left standing out at sea after wave erosion has separated it from the mainland. Swash The forward movement of a wave up a beach. Wave attack zone The area between low and high tide where wave erosion is most effective. © www.teachitgeography.co.uk 2012 18254 Page 4 of 4
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