a guide for tourism without barriers
Special Limited Edition in occasion Ask-it
12th Plenary Board Meeting
Genoa, 27-28 March, 2008
With the contribution of
Provincia di genova e Rizzoli Ortodepia
2008
edition
Responsabile editoriale:
Coop. Sociale La Cruna
Testi, fotografie, progetto grafico e realizzazione:
Coop. Sociale La Cruna
Rilevazione dell’accessibilità dei percorsi e delle strutture:
Coop. Sociale La Cruna
La guida, compresa nel progetto “Genova, città accessibile”, è stata realizzata
in collaborazione con la Consulta Handicap grazie ai finanziamenti di
Genova 2004 Capitale Europea della Cultura e Fondazione Carige.
Edizione non in commercio.
È possibile richiedere la guida a:
Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna s.r.l. - ONLUS
p.zza della Nunziata 4
16124 Genova
tel/fax 010.2465517
[email protected]
www.lacruna.com
Stampa e legatura: Azienda Litografica Genovese
Genova, marzo 2005
Quest’opera è stata rilasciata sotto la licenza Creative Commons
Attribuzione-NonCommerciale-NoOpereDerivate.
Per leggere una copia della licenza visita il sito web http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.0/it/
o spedisci una lettera a Creative Commons, 559 Nathan Abbott Way, Stanford, California 94305, USA.
GENOVA
PER TUTTI NOI
A guide for tourism
without barriers
CONTENTS
Foreword! Coop. La Cruna .................................................................6
Why Genova? di Maurizio Maggiani ...............................................7
How to read the guide ...................................................................8
9
THE ITINERARIES guided by Donata Bonometti
A note on the Guide’s itineraries ..............................................10
Itinerary A: from Principe to De Ferrari..................................11
Itinerary B: the Aquarium and the Porto Antico...............19
Itinerary C: the old town ............................................................. 29
41 THE GENOESE LIFESTYLE
Friscieu, panissa, pesto and farinata .......................................42
The shopping streets ................................................................... 44
The Genoese nightlife.................................................................. 48
Walks: Corso Italia, Nervi and the Lanterna ........................ 50
The events of the Fiera del Mare .............................................55
The city of theatres .........................................................................57
Genova from above: la Guardia and il Monte ................... 58
59 THE GREAT GENOESE
The house of Cristoforo Colombo .......................................... 60
Andrea Doria e the Palazzo del Principe.............................. 62
Niccolò Paganini ............................................................................. 64
Genoa in rhymes ............................................................................ 65
Memories in an open air museum ..........................................67
69 ACCESSIBILITY PROFILES
Criteria of accessibility...................................................................70
Museums and exhibitions...........................................................71
Theatres...............................................................................................97
Shops and eating places ...........................................................100
103 PUBLIC TRANSPORT AND SERVICES
Arriving in Genoa .........................................................................104
Moving in Genoa .........................................................................109
Information and useful numbers ...........................................114
FOREWORD
Genoa, a concerned city, has produced a tourist guide that
makes the most of the city’s accessible routes. The guide provides information on the city’s points of interest, paying particular attention to the accessibility of museums and tourist
attractions, keeping people with special needs in mind. At the
same time, it has evaluated interventions designed to dismantle architectural barriers that will improve the liveability and
accessibility of the city.
After the success of the first edition, a second edition has been
produced. The title “Genoa for all of us”, still holds significant
political and cultural importance. This work is not merely an
occasional tool aimed at helping a specific tourist target, but
proposes a mode of regarding the city as an assigned space,
to guarantee the same opportunities of accessibility for all.
This concerns itself with the wider process of the city’s growth,
which this guide aims to lend to its communicative capacity,
information and cultural testimony.
Dedicating two large parts of this guide to “Genoese Lifestyle”
and “Great Genoese” illustrates both the honour and pleasure
to communicate something of the vibrancy and rich culture of
our city. One characteristic of Genoa is, as Maurizio Maggiani
articulated so well, that it does not catch tourists with artificial
hospitality and welcoming, but simply wins them with her
modest and unique fascination, her captivating history and
her sparkling lights.
6
WHY GENOA?
by Maurizio Maggiani
Genoa invites nobody; Genoa gets undressed for nobody,
screams to nobody and uses no perfumes at all since Genoa is a
dour, disenchanted capital. But, Genoa has never rejected anybody among those who shored on its Ripa, and they were, and
still they will be, a multitude of people from so many countries.
Genoa is a great harbour welcoming anyone who has something
to show, to say, to take and to hear, were it just a new word or a
hidden slash of light. Were this the unique reason, Genoa would
be worth a visit because there you are considered a human
being, coming from somewhere else, looking for something
and with something to offer: and this will be enough, with no
need of the false hospitality lies of the reception halls.
And then, there is Genoa that yields to nobody but lets people
contemplate and even touch it. The city where life means
utmost complications, where horizons are wider than the sharpest look; the city where the light shines like nowhere else in
the world, where shadows cannot be fathomed. Genoa: the
indomitable beauty, the melting pot of styles, the place where
streets get lost intentionally, where wonders appear, no matter
why. Genoa, that you can never completely understand, that
you will never admire enough, never live in its entirety. Genoa,
the astonishment that bores nobody ‘cause it ends not..
7
HOW TO READ THE GUIDE
This guide introduces you to Genoa from three points of view.
The itineraries:
three easy routes around accessible Genoa in order
to discover the monumental and landscape legacy
of the city without nasty encounters (architectural
barriers).
Genoese Lifestyle:
see the city through the eyes of those who live it
everyday. See the streets where the Genoese go for
a walk, go shopping or meet in the evening.
The Great Genoese:
retrace the routes of great historical personalities which were born and lived in Genoa; follow the footsteps
of seafarers, poets and singers through the old alleys
and in the shade of impressive architecture.
Accessibility profiles:
specially provided profiles inform you about the
accessibility of tourist facilities and provide
detailed information, retaining the guide’s
appeal and clarity..
(n°) is the page number where you can find information about
the accessibility of the mentioned structure
(www) informs that detailed information on a structure’s
accessibility is available on www.terredimare.it
Means of transport and services:
accessibility of train stations, reserved parking
and equipped buses: this section provides accurate information to arrange your arrival and stay
in Genoa.
8
THE ITINERARIES
Guided by Donata Bonometti
For various days I lived in
true ecstasy. Incapable of following
a pre-arranged plan
to visit the masterworks of the city,
I abandoned these for the joy of
this new environment in a
manner that you could
call musical.
I have never seen anything
like this Genoa!
Richard Wagner
I percorsi
A NOTE ON THE GUIDE’S ITINERARIES
Genoa is one of the most vertical cities in the world, sloping
down towards the sea from the Apennine Mountains, which
run along thirty-four kilometers of coastline. The narrow stretch
of land that is suited for building and the diffused interventions
of restructuring the area have given life to this typical urban
design that has always been the charm of the city.
The recent interventions of upgrading the city’s pedestrian areas and tourist structures has made it possible to create different
accessible itinerary for wheelchair users who wish to visit the
principal monumental riches and walks of the city.
The three journeys described in this guide cross each others’
ways more than once and can be seen as one single excursion.
A) From Principe to De Ferrari
B) The Aquarium and the Porto Antico
C) The Old Town
At the beginning of each journey, an outline of the route indicates the streets to be crossed, means of transport used and
the museums that are included in the tour.
At the end of the guide, a map of the city helps tourists find
their way around with a wide overview of Genoa.
(n°) indicates the number of the page, on which information on
accessibility of the mentioned structures can be found, or another page, which provides further information on the subject.
The development of the itineraries has been contributed to by
the PEBA (Project for the Elimination of Architectural Barriers),
carried out in 2005 by La Cruna on account of the Department
for Equal Opportunities of the City of Genoa. More info on PEBA
on www.lacruna.com.
10
Itinerary A
FROM PRINCIPE
TO DE FERRARI
A
from Principe to De Ferrari
Leaving from the Principe train station (105), which is overseen
by a statue of Christopher Columbus (60) on Piazza Acquaverde,
the route leads immediately to a magnificent road. This is via
Balbi, where a certain bohemian atmosphere can be felt with
the vibrant and cheerful comings and goings of students from
the nearby university. The streets are lined by bars and “focaccerie”, but that does not take away any of its past glory and aristocracy. Half way down via Balbi on your right you will see the
Palazzo Reale (88) that once belonged to the powerful Durazzo
family in the 17th century. In the 19th century, it became the king’s
palace, where the Savoia family spent their days in Genoa. The
magnificently furnished rooms of this residence, which today is a
national museum, accommodate paintings of many different
Italian and foreign artists (Van Dyck, Tintoretto and Guercino)
and those of the Genoese School. The Palazzo Reale can still
today be seen from its best sides, displaying the royal carriage in
the foyer, a most picturesque hanging garden that faces the port
and its precious ‘risseu’ (the characteristic Ligurian paving, made
with sea stones), typical of that period.
The various buildings of the 17th and 18th centuries can be
observed while passing through via Balbi and should not be
missed. Via Balbi leads on to Piazza della Nunziata, overseen by
the imposing, neoclassical columns of the Chiesa della Nunziata.
Palazzo Reale, Sala degli Specchi
13
A
A
from Principe to De Ferrari
After crossing the square on the right and continuing towards
the tunnel, the last street on the right side is via Cairoli and
appears in all of its austere elegance. Walk along this road until
you reach the shop-front of one of Italy’s oldest bookshops,
the ‘Bozzi’ (100), the shop used to be visited regularly by great
authors such as Stendhal and Dickens, and was where one
could consult the ‘emerotheche’ (rare collection of journals).
The ‘Bozzi’ is at the corner of piazza della Meridiana.
CASTELLO D’ALBERTIS
From the Principe station
the quarter of Castelletto can
be reached by means of a
public elevator (111) of the
very latest generation. The
design and construction was
a unique project in Europe
because it is possible to
make use of the cable railway
before changing into the elevator. The elevator arrives in
corso Dogali, where the poet
Eugenio Montale was born
at number seven and where
the ethnographic museum
of the Castello d’Albertis (75)
is located. This little NeoGothic castle was the residence of the Genoese explorer Captain D’Albertis, who, in the 19th century, assembled all the
objects and testimonies of his journeys to Oceania, Australia
and Peru here. Artifacts include Mayan and pre-Columbian
relics, and documentations about the lives of the Hope Indians. A small but delicate collection of handmade objects, are
displayed to great effect in the antique cisterns of the small
castle. The residence of Captain D’Albertis offers rooms of
unparalleled aesthetic and exotic taste and its public park faces
the exciting panorama of the nearby city and harbor.
14
from Principe to De Ferrari
This square was opened in the 18th century like the Strada
Nuovissima, now called via Cairoli, to directly connect to the
splendor of via Garibaldi, formerly known as via Aurea and
Strada Nuova.
Where today via Cairoli ends in piazza della Meridiana, there
used to be vegetable gardens and private parks sloping down
from the overlooking Castelletto and reaching to the outskirts
of the old town. But mainly, these were citrus groves. The palazzo, which takes its name from the sundial painted on the
façade dates back to the 16th century, unlike the front wall that
was redecorated in the 19th century.
Via Cairoli follows the delightful winding patterns of aristocratic
palazzos and leads to the magnificent via Garibaldi. This street
accommodated Genoa’s most powerful families’ from 1500-1600.
The palaces bask in brilliance after recent illuminating and glorifying restoration works. Palazzo Tursi, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo
Rosso now form a museums-complex. When visiting the Palazzo
Rosso (85), do not miss out on the free 3D theatre: an impressive
three-dimensional film tells the story of the evolution of via
Garibaldi in connection with the
urban development of the city.
Palazzo Tursi (85) is an ensemble of balconies, monumental
staircases, terraced gardens and
lounges - an assembly owed to
the slope on which the Patrician
residence was built in 1568. But
also some of the other palaces
belonging to private families,
banks and institutions, such as
the Chamber of Commerce,
have an auspicious past. Palazzo
Lomellino (number seven) can
still be seen today in all its original beauty, displaying a stucco
façade that dates back to 1560.
via Garibaldi
15
A
A
from Principe to De Ferrari
A perfectly preserved fresco was recently discovered on the
first floor, in which Bernardo Strozzi represented the New
World with rarely depicted scenes of cannibalism. In the hallway, the fountain of Fetonte is connected with an overlooking
roof garden. On Palazzo Lercari Parodi, at number three, two
statues of Atlas guard the entrance. A façade made from the
typical stone of the area, from Finale in Liguria, can be seen at
number four - the Palazzo Cataldi, which today is the seat of
the Chambers of Commerce. Further on, there are art shops,
antique dealers and a place of fine culinary delights: the artisan confectionery ‘Villa’ (110) at the corner to vico del Portello
sells delicacies including various preserves, candied fruits,
chocolates, cakes and famous small, sugar-coated candies
with fragrant drops inside.
The walk continues towards piazza delle Fontane Marose.
Imagine this place at the height of its time. There would have
been a fountain and water flowing vibrantly surrounded by
numerous medieval buildings. The sole survivor is the Palazzo
Spinola dei Marmi, built in blocks of black and white stone, displaying statues of warriors and members of the family.
In the neighboring piazza Portello, the public elevator (p110) can
be taken to reach the viewpoint of the Spianata Castelletto.
Palazzo Spinola dei Marmi (piazza delle Fontane Marose)
16
from Principe to De Ferrari
At the end of via XXV Aprile, a double pedestrian crossing
allows access to the Galleria Mazzini, a “covered” street running parallel to via Roma. Built at the end of the 19th century,
its Art Nouveau structure is very unique and, although not
perfectly sustained, still shows its original renowned elegance.
The masterfully decorated shop windows compete with each
other inside the arcade creating an exceptional atmosphere.
Upon reaching the top of via Roma, you enter what was the
heart of the bourgeois city during the 19th century. The street
houses some of Genoa’s most exclusive clothing fashion boutiques of established names. There are also historical shops that
SPIANATA CASTELLETTO
From piazza Portello, in the surroundings of piazza Fontane
Marose (110), an elevator leads to
the platform - Spianata Castelletto
(G4). The elevator’s stop is accommodated in a kiosk built in Art Nouveau style, on the fringe of the belvedere.
The earliest historical mention of the
Castelletto, from which it takes its
name ‘spianata’ (level ground), dates
back to the tenth century. The fortress became a symbol of foreign rulers and suffered cyclic
attacks and destruction several times. The Savoia family reconstructed it in the 19th century, but the Castelletto was finally leveled during the revolt of 1849. The 19th century residential
homes were built in classic-mannerists style. The viewpoint of
the belvedere Luigi Montaldo offers an emotional panorama of
the port and the slated roofs of the old city.
The Genoese flock to the Spianata, especially in summer, for a
taste the exceptional sweets that are sold there, such as the
granite (crushed ice drinks) from ‘Don Paolo’ (100) and the
panera (chilled cream desserts) from ‘Guarino’ (100).
17
A
A
from Principe to De Ferrari
are regularly frequented by the Genoese and the neck-tie’s from
‘Finollo’ (100) are world-famous and sought-after by gentlemen
all over Europe.
After passing through the intersection of via Roma and via
XXV Aprile again, the route continues past the Carlo Felice
theatre from where a long, covered promenade leads down to
the Academia Ligustica and via XX Settembre. Wind and rain
inspired the architects and the town planners from the end of
the 19th century and through the beginning of the 20th century. The planning of covered spaces such as this stretched feature in the town centre is an example of this. The arcade of via
XX Settembre still shows traces of the splendid Art Nouveau,
mosaic
pavements. Art Nouveau and Art
Deco influences
can be seen
throughout the
rest of via XX
Settembre.
THE PALAZZI DEI ROLLI
In 2006 the Palazzi dei Rolli and the Strada Nuova of Genoa
have been taken into the list of the Unesco World Heritage of
Humanity. This is a small universe of private palaces that date
back to the period between 1576 and 1670, and which are so
expressive and superb that the historian Ennio Poleggi stated
that we are here dealing with a true and characteristic “republican palace”. It was during those years that the Republic of
Genoa was the centre for trades and journeys of Kings and
important Personalities. Therefore, lists (or ‘rolli’) of public, luxurious lodgings were made and by method of drawing, noble
guests were then allocated their accommodation. Today, 42 of
the 80 palaces have been inscribed in the official list of the
Rolli and are now part of the Unesco World Heritage.
18
Itinerary B
THE AQUARIUM
AND THE PORTO ANTICO
B
�����������������
��������
����������������
�����������
���������������
������������������
�����������
�����������
���������������
������������
���������������
�������������
���������
�����������
�������
��������
�����������������
�����
����
��������������������
��������������������
�����������������
�����������������������������
�������������������������
������������������
����������
��������
���������
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
You are at the Principe train station (105), which received its
name from Prince Andrea Doria (62), the military commander
who governed and revolutionized the city in the 16th century.
Walk along via Andrea Doria and cross the street at the first traffic light. On the opposite side be careful to watch out for a couple of gaps in the pavement. Continue until you reach the
underground station “Piazza Principe” and follow the recently
improved pedestrian pathway. After reaching the first traffic
light in via Gramsci, cross the road to the harbor side and turn
westwards. After about 200 meters on your left you will see the
Stazione Marittima (108) of Ponte dei Mille. This was the port
of departure for thousands Italian emigrants between the middle of the 19th century until post-war times. As the transatlantic
liners, such as the ‘Rex’ and the ‘Michelangelo’ that have taken to
the open sea for so long, have passed their Golden Age, so has
the tradition of cruises. The restored Stazione Marittima today
welcomes indoor gala events and is well-worth a visit for the
fascinating view through the glass doors onto the piers, where
one can find an almost unchanged atmosphere since the goodbyes, laughter and tears that emanated here long ago (to book:
+39 010 2412534).
Following via Gramsci
eastwards, you will soon
reach piazza della Commenda. This is the first
maritime station, founded in the year 1000. It
used to link Europe with
the Holy Land: the Commenda di San Giovanni di Pré (77). Here, one
can encounter the myths
of the Crusades: soldiers
and pilgrims used to
spend their last days
before departure here.
La Commenda di Pré
21
B
B
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
And legend states that one of those days, military leader Goffredo di Buglione set sail from here.
Imagine how once the waves used to beat against the buildings whilst the ships would be moored at the docks.
The building can be accessed via a steep ramp on the left, at the
same level as the pedestrian crossing. The Commenda complex,
whose original, exciting architecture dates back to 1180 and
which has been meticulously restored, still contains traces of
frescos from the 14th century, depicting the Lamb of God, deacons and seraphs, and the profile of a towered city that could
be Jerusalem. Niches carved in the marble could have been
used as storerooms for shields and armors. The Commenda was
first used as a hospital, founded by the Order of San Giovanni of
Jerusalem, today known as Knights of Malta. It provided shelter
for pilgrims, but was also a place for treating the sick and poor.
There used to be eighty beds, placed on two levels, leaning on
the side wall to the church of San Giovanni di Pré(77), adjacent to the Commenda, so that the ill or the pilgrims could perform their religious functions. On the lower level of the church,
there are the rests of a pre-existing building known as the Santo
Sepolcro that received the ashes of the Saint Giovanni Battista.
The ashes were brought
to Genoa by the Templar
Knights in 1098 and
remained there before
being relocated to their
final resting place in the
Cathedral of San Lorenzo.
In keeping with the subject of the departure, the
Commenda today is
home to International
Centre of Italian Emigration Studies.
Il Museo Galata
22
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
GALATA, MUSEUM OF THE SEA
The new Galata Museum of the Sea (79) has its seat in the
antique arsenal of the port. Here, the Republic of Genoa used to
construct and launch its own fleet. These walls have seen soldiers from all over the world, sailors and masters of the Genoese
axe, slaves, convicts, ship-owners and traders for centuries. Today,
seventeen great halls display spectacular reconstructions of
ships and maritime environments, bringing a passed era back to
life by introducing us to their stories and objects of the times.
On the second floor of the museum, a brig-schooner of 33m in
length can be boarded (also by disabled visitors) and there is an
observatory, a great glass-roofed terrace on top of the high
building, which opens towards the sky offering a 360° view of
the city and port - an extraordinary panorama of Genoa.
Leave the Commenda behind, and enter the maze of narrow
streets, which during post-war times used to be an area of
‘blind-alleys’, with its smugglers, nighttime bars for the seamen, fish stands, and basement flats with the red lights. The
area has been improved and regained some of its former
splendor of a noble past. Cross through via Antonio Gramsci
and continue west towards the important building that will
appear on the right, the Galata Museum of the Sea (79).
You are two steps from the Expo in the Porto Antico. The Old Port
was separated from the city and accessible only to dockworkers
Genova vista dall’Osservatorio del Galata
23
B
B
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
up until 1992.The challenging project designed by the star architect, Renzo Piano, has restructured the area to the joy of the
Genoese. His mastery has created a point of architectural excellence and a striking tourist attraction. Genoa born Piano has
revolutionized his city by opening the area known as ‘Porto
Antico’. Today the fusion with the city is perfect. The Expo
includes the Bigo, the Aquarium (71), the large festival square,
the Bio-Sphere, restaurants and shops, including a fantastic
bookshop (100).
L’ ACQUARIO DI GENOVA
The
Aquarium
was built in the
Porto Antico in
occasion of the
Expo for the 500th
anniversary
of
the discovery of
the New World.
Genoese architect Renzo Piano
designed
the
exterior of the
Aquarium, while the interior was planned by the American
Peter Chermayeff.
The Aquarium of Genoa (71) is home to over 800 different
water species exhibited in 70 tanks that can be viewed in their
“natural” environments. It is the largest “submarine” tourist
attraction in Europe.
The Aquarium management, in agreement with the Aquarium Foundation of Genoa, has pledged to raise public awareness about the correct administration of sustainable water
resources. The exciting discovery of over 6000 marine animals,
bred in their ecosystems, creates a truly unique experience.
24
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
The project of Renzo Piano has also rejuvenated the antique buildings of the Magazzini del Cotone. Abandoned for decades, they
are now highly appreciated by the organizers of conventions and
valued for the presence of the Città dei Bambini (Kids’ City ) (76),
for the children’s library ‘De Amicis’, the Cineplex and some specialized nautical shops. Some cranes from 19th century can still be
seen piercing the skyline and are testimonies to the productivity
of the Genoa’s exact and characteristic maritime archaeology. The
Magazzini del Cotone (where cotton and other goods were
stored) have lost all their connotations to their former signification
as a place of heavy labor to become elegant and spacious venues
for leisure and culture.
The Porto Antico also offers a delightful, picturesque walk in the
shade of palm trees that were shipped from North Africa and
planted in 2001 and in the shelter of the mighty medieval city
walls, called ‘Mandraccio’, which both divided and connected the
port with the quartiere del Molo.
The quartiere del Molo (Quarter of the Docks) has always been
an area popular with the working-classes and used to be the first
maritime centre of Genoa, whose name derives from Janua,
meaning ‘door’. The Molo Vecchio (Old Pier) was reinforced and
expanded in 1500 and used to be considered one of the wonders
of the city for its grandeur, still perceptible in the wall of Malapa25
B
B
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
ga, which appears in a famous post-war film with Jean Gabin.
Porta Siberia, built as part of Galeazzo Alessi’s project of the
1550’s, is today home to the Museo Luzzati (82). The Magazzini
dell’Abbondanza, where the city’s government used to store
goods to tackle shortages,
leans on the
bumpy paving at the
entrance to
via
del
Molo.
Upon leaving the Porto Antico from the passage of the Caricamento, there is the Genua Picta, a tradition of colors and stuccos,
typical for the city during the Renaissance and Baroque periods
that can be seen on the façade of the palazzo San Giorgio.
Wander with serenity. The Gothic rear façade was the ingenious
brainchild of the architect-monk Frate Oliverio. The monument
was restored at the end of the 19th century by Alfredo d’Andrade,
who was inspired by criteria of Romantic restorations in which
true and exact reconstructions were the principal objective. The
foreground of the palazzo dates back to the late 16th century,
however the façade facing the sea was restored to its current
state during the 1990’s. Its frescos narrate the story of the heroic
feats of saint George protector of the city and were originally
signed by Lazzaro Tavarone (1556-1641). A memorial slab at the
back of the building here tells of the stay in the palazzo of the
Venetian, Marco Polo who, in these rooms, dictated ‘Il Milione’the famous narrative of his outstanding exploration - to Rustichello of Pisa.
The Palazzo San Giorgio (which was originally named Palazzo
del Mare, meaning ‘Sea Palace’) was constructed in 1260 by
the order of the Captain of the people, Guglielmo Boccanegra.
26
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
It then became the antique seat of the Bank of San Giorgio
For centuries, this organization controlled the finances, and
the intense maritime and commercial activities of the city and
provided loans to kings all over of Europe. Palazzo San Giorgio
is today the seat of the Port Authority of Genoa.
MEMORIES OF THE PORT di Amanzio Pezzolo
I always walked around the docks, at the wharfs, getting as
close as possible to the steam ships, to those little ones for the
inshore navigation and to the big ones, the transatlantic liners.
We were boys of the port and used to slip through at San Lazzarino and at the Ponte Colombo or under the market of San
Teodoro, to then swarm through the piles of goods stacked
between the Doria and the San Benigno piers.
Anything could be useful in those post-war days, which seemed
to be never ending. Pieces of wood, leftover bits of coal, scrapmetal, any remains were picked up and carried to our hiding
place in the ruins which
still cluttered the quarter.
During the good season
we used to go past the
lighthouse to the dock of
Sampierdarena
and
sometimes to the mouth
of the Polcevera River to
swim. Everyone would be
expecting the banana
boat to fill our bellies with
somalite bananas. What a
taste those little African
bananas had, eaten in a
rush behind a row of
goods wagons!
Amongst the stops of our
excursions there were also
27
B
B
the Aquarium and the Porto Antico
the maritime station, from where still thousands of migrants left
for America and Australia. They used to stay there under these
gigantic ships, the Augustus, the Giulio Cesare or the Federico
Costa, expecting their turn to board. In the middle there would
always be a man with an accordion, playing moving melodies.
As I grew up I arrived at the Porto Antico, the Caricamento, the
Mandraccio, Porta Cibaria, the Magazzini Generali and Porto
Franco. I would work as a laborer in the workshops in the quarters of Maddalena, Vigne and Grazie, close to the port. We
learned a trade and walked through every alley, every now
and then a small bread with ‘farinata’ on the hand and an eye
on the Roman matrons that are painted on the thresholds of
the old portals. I have done this walk, these tracks, again and
again, when at 18 I entered the ‘Compagnia Unica delle Merci
Varie’ , carrying various goods, and started day by day to learn
the trade of my life, the art of being a docker. A dockworker.
From East to West, from the tip of the Embriaco pier to the
bottom of the Canepa, behind hundreds of ship to be loaded
and unloaded amongst the noise of the cranes and the smells
of the goods, I have travelled the world, learned the names of
countless foreign docks and got to recognize the colors of
smokestack and the different shapes of bows.
28
ITINERARY C
THE OLD TOWN
C
������������������
�����������
��������
���������
����������
���������������
���������������
����������������
��������������
������������������
�����������������
���������
�������������
�������������������
���������������
������������
�����������������
�������������
����������������������
�������������
�����������������
���������������
�������
���������
�������������
��������������
�������
��������
���������
the old town
Before leaving piazza Caricamento and after admiring,
once more, the rear of Palazzo
San Giorgio, where a 17th
century statue of the
Madonna in a sumptuous
niche seems to invite a
walker to the street that leads
us to the heart of the city, turn
towards piazza della Raibetta.
This small piazza, whose size is
no exception amongst the
squares of the old town, is rich
in history. The name ‘della Raibetta’ possibly derives from
the Arabic suffix ‘rab’ that indicates this place was formerly a
grain market in the Middle Ages.
This piazza “of passage” leads to the
entrance of via San Lorenzo, a street
that strikes with its characteristics of urban beauty. Its origins are
ancient and evidence has been found in subsoil traces, suggesting this was formerly the site of Roman necropolises. The current
palaces date back to the 16th century, however when the street
was widened, more than two centuries ago, they were modified
and their facades were reconstructed. The effect is nonetheless
outstanding. Stuccos, decors, frescos and architectural patterns,
angels and warriors, symbols of trades and aristocracy, in clear
stone or in grey slates, in marble and in bricks, lead towards the
Cathedral of San Lorenzo. In Piazza San Lorenzo, an ancient
shop of textiles and drapes exposes typical Genoese designs
(mezzeri).
To enter the cathedral through its accessible entrance, continue
along via San Lorenzo. Inside the monumental chapel lined with
15th – 16th century sculptures, are the conserved ashes of Giovanni
Battista (presumably), that were carried by crusaders and brought
to Genoa on their return from the Holy Land. The choir of San
31
C
C
the old town
Lorenzo has a system of amplified induction for the hearing
impaired. In the right nave an unexploded bomb can be
viewed that crashed into San Lorenzo during the bombardment of the English fleet in 1941.
As you observe the structure of the ancient Cathedral, you can
notice that it displays first Romanic forms, then Gothic, followed by 15th century rosettes on the façade and the left tower and finally the loggia, dating back to the following century.
Therefore, the work of centuries, with its beginnings in the 12th
THE CATHEDRAL OF SAN LORENZO
The site of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo was known as a place
of worship as early as 878 BC. Numerous reconstructions and
reinventions have taken place here since then until 1400 and
the bell tower was finished in the 15th century, while the interior decorations were not finished until the 19th century. The
impressive San Giovanni side portal (dating back to the 11th
century, the work of Lombardian masters) shows symbols representing Good and Evil incised in the marble. A bizarre and
fascinating scene of the martyrdom of San Lorenzo can be
seen above the entrance door leading to the piazza. Outside,
small chimneys are visible. These chimneys were used to raise
smoke on occasion of the remembrance celebrations of the patron saint. The statue of the knife
grinder (12th century), and rests of sarcophaguses from the 4th - 3rd century BC
on the façade deserve a closer
look. In the Museum of the Treasure of San Lorenzo (94) the Holy
Basin is being conserved, originally brought to Genoa in 1101
by Crusaders. Made from Roman
glass from the 1st century, the
legend says that Jesus possibly
drank from it during the Last
Supper.
32
the old town
century, created a fascinating overlap of styles that can easily
be witnessed in the architecture, such as the Gothic naves with
Romanic columns. Frescos by Luca Cambiaso and Giovanni
Battista Castello are Mannerist and Baroque testimonies, surround the impressive 19th century altar (built by Carlo Barbino
who was also architect of the original Carlo Felice theatre),
which sits under a dome designed by Galeazzo Alessi in 1536.
Going back on Via San Lorenzo, continue up the street until
you reach piazza Matteotti. The impressive building on your
left at the end of the piazza is Palazzo Ducale (87), once home
to Genoa’s political power. Today it is a venue for art exhibitions
of international fame. This building has seen the work of dozens of masters throughout the centuries. The architect Andrea
Cerasola, who was also known as ‘Vannone’, reconstructed the
Ducale at the end of the 16th century, incorporating the medieval villas of the Fieschi, of the civil authority, of the Abbati and
also the Tower. At the end of the 18th century, after a furious fire,
the central body was rebuilt using neoclassical shapes.
The great charm of classical courtyards and columnades allowing perspectives of the open sky, harmonize with the results of
20th century renovation works, such as the ‘aerial stair’ - a spiral
suspended ramp built in the 80s by the architect Giovanni
Spalla. He radically restored the Palazzo Ducale, opposing this
33
C
C
the old town
masterwork of contemporary interior design with the sumptuous stairway and vast steps that the doges would climb with
slow and royal steps.
Not to be missed are the apartment of the Doge and the
Chamber of the Highest Council, where the political powers of
the Republic used to gather. From the chandeliers to the frescos, the entire interior echoes the “magnificence” and glory of
those past times.
Staying with the subject of power, the walk continues along via
Tommaso Reggio (where also the Archbishop has his seat) to the
“general quarter” of the Doria, piazza San Matteo. This is a jewel.
The Church of San Matteo was
founded in 1125 by Martino Doria,
and renovated in the 16th century
by order of Andrea Doria. The portal and the façade are inscribed
with engravings that chronicle the
achievements of heroic deeds of
the very famous Doria family, who
owned and occupied the two palaces opposite the church. The porticos of the palaces were once used
as meeting places for business discussions. For wheelchair users it is
possible to enter the church, San
34
the old town
Matteo, by contacting the parish personally (+39 010 2474361).
Management will provide a telescopic ramp in front of the
entrance. Inside the small but elegant church, the Deposition of
Anton Maria Maragliano, a 17th century sculptor who specialized
in painted wood statues, should not be missed. His lifesize sculpture ‘The Deposition’ is of a most natural character and depicts
Christ, Giuseppe D’Arimatea and Nicodemo. It is also an exciting
reconstruction of clothing at the time of the Messiah.
On request, the parish priest will open a small cupboard safe,
where a spade belonging to Andrea Doria, whose tomb is
positioned in the bottom of the crypt, is kept safe.
Continue down vico San Matteo until Campetto and then onto
piazza Banchi, to the side of the Loggia you will see the beginning of via San Luca, one of the many alleys expanding
throughout the Old Town, in which you will find shops, boutiques and popular stores, catering for every age and each
taste. Clothing and shoe shops are only interrupted by one
small piazza where the private church of the Spinola family
stands. The 17th century church is covered with frescos by
Domenico Piola. The view from the front of the church includes
PIAZZA BANCHI
In some aspects, the Piazza dei Banchi (F6), still reveals in parts
some of its original features. For example, the palaces of piazza
Banchi were once adorned by open porches unlike the buffered
porches standing today, and were occupied by retail outlets and
banks. The Loggia dei Banchi, a splendid 16th century monument, was once the city’s stock exchange, providing a wide, open
space for meetings of negotiating traders. The wide arcades
were previously open and not enclosed by glass windows. The
church of St. Pietro in Banchi, founded in the 10th century by the
Ghibellini, burned down and was reconstructed in 1583 above a
ground level used for retail as it is seen today. The church still
maintains an elevated position and dominates in respect to the
square that offers a daily book-market, also selling videos, second-hand CDs, DVDs and vinyl. There is also a stand that sells
plants and flowers.
35
C
C
the old town
vico di Pellicceria on the left where the Palazzo Spinola (90),
today a National Gallery, stands. Imagine entering this Patrician residence in the middle of the 16th century, when it was
completed (and modernized in the 18th century). You would
see your reflection in the huge mirrors, reaching high, and
extending to the ceiling. They were brought all the way from
Paris on request of the highly refined Margherita, who married
into the Spinola family. The kitchen, complete with antique
crockery, suggests the scents of an inviting banquet. Here we
can even retrace the accounts, or peruse old shopping lists
and menus. Unfortunately visitors who use a wheelchair cannot reach the annexed
upper level as no elevator has been installed
yet. The rooms in the
palace hold all of their
original beauty and furnishings, which almost
makes you forget that
this a museum.
From Palazzo Spinola,
follow the entire via
Luca until arriving at the
nearby and recently requalified via Lomellini.
There are a number of
great places to eat here.
There is a focacceria
L’Immacolata in San Filippo Neri
(100) of the finest
Genoese quality, a historic café (100) and a ‘latteria’ (100)
where the students of the nearby university love to stop for a
coffee with cream. At the end of the street it is advised to stop
at the Oratorio di San Filippo Neri. The annexed church was
reopened in 2004 and re-consigned to the Fillipini order, who
constructed the oratory in the middle of the 18th century. Here
you can admire a baroque statue of the Blessed Virgin, sculptured by Pierre Puget in 1670 and then donated to the Fathers
36
the old town
from Stefano Lomellini. The oratory is accessible to wheelchair
users and is open on Saturday afternoons or on request by
contacting the priests (+39 010 2465426). Via Lomellini passes
the Museum of the Risorgimento, the birthplace of Giuseppe
Mazzini (95). Via del Campo, leads away to the right and has
famously been immortalized by Genoese singer-songwriter
Fabrizio De André in one of his songs. The redevelopment of
the street has highlighted some patrician renaissance residences, still partially inhabited by noble families. The entrance
hall of the palazzo Cybo (the façade is distinguished by
dynamic stuccos in green, gold and peach) makes an impact
with a statue of a Roman man that could be Scipione. Accounts
of betrayal, blood and cruelty are at home in the small piazza
Vacchero that takes its name from Giulio Cesare Vacchero, who
conspired against the Republic of Genoa in 1628. He was later
THE HISTORICAL CONFECTIONERIES
Sweetest Genoa. These names are considered the “temples” of
Genoese patisseries. The sweets and confectionery outlets
Romanengo (100) and Klainguti (100) are situated between
Campetto and Piazza Soziglia. Giuseppe Verdi knew their specialties well, especially the ‘pandolce’, a sweetbread, and the
traditional ‘sacripantina’ cake. The methods of preparation
and recipes for the candied fruits, which the confectioners follow, date back to the Middle Ages. Peach, pear, prunes, and
mandarins cultivated in Liguria, are
candied following the Artisan
secrets that allow for long-term
conservation. The shop of Romeo
Viganotti (100), a historical family
of chocolate makers, is a little more
difficult to find, however the experience is well-worth the effort. The
shop is situated nearby Porta
Soprana, in vico Castagna..
37
C
C
the old town
DE ANDRÉ
Fabrizio De André died aged 59, in January 1999. Today the singer/songwriter
rests in the cemetery of Staglieno (67)
after having lived in Genoa for 30 years. He
spent the second half of his life dividing
his time between Sardinia and Milan. He
loved and described the old city, and
helped make it known throughout the
world. He placed in music and poetry, the
smells of the port and the protagonists of the old town alleys,
the colour of the sea of Genoa, and the enigmatic beauty of its
women. He resided in Albaro, where he lived in the luxurious
villa Paradiso, owned by his entrepreneur father. He once wrote
about his neighbor who lived at number seven in via Campo,
this “graceful girl with eyes the color of leaves” . These words
were once sung so tenderly by André . Via del Campo is a 15th
century alley, where rich and poor used to live together. There
is also a music shop founded by Gianni Tassio, an enthusiast
and connoisseur of De André. The shop is also home to a personal guitar of De André and some of his rarest recordings.
decapitated and his family was
forced into exile. After the execution, a public washhouse was constructed where his palazzo once
stood. Via del Campo end with the
two round towers of Porta dei
Vacca. One tower displays Romanic carvings of eagles and mermaids and is most probably of Pisan origins; the other, has been
enclosed into 18th century Palazzo
Serra. Porta dei Vacca was part of
the third circle of city walls, built
around 1160 to defend Genoa
Porta dei Vacca
38
the old town
from the threat of Federico Barbarossa.
Before leaving the via del Campo, on your left, there is a display in
a pharmacy window (100) with tools/instruments used by doctors, pharmacists and vets from the 17th century until today.
Passing the Porta di Vacca, the street leads into via Gramsci,
near the Metro station “Darsena”. From here you can reach the
station “Sarzano” in no time by taking the underground in the
direction “De Ferrari”. As you arrive in piazza Sarzano, the twosided bust of Giano rising above an antique well greets you.
And this is not by chance: they say that the name Genoa could
derive also from Giano, while other interpretations opt for
Janua, which means ‘door’. Others believe its origin comes
from the Etruscan word ‘kanua’, which means ‘new city’.
The square is dominated by the antique complex of the
Sant’Agostino convent, of the museum with the same name
and its modern architecture and of the church of San Salvatore, which we see today deconsecrated, after it was bombed
during the Second World War and remained without a roof for
decades. Finally restorations have begun with a new and skilful décor for its façade.
The Museum of Sant’Agostino
(92), which incorporates part
of this vast convent complex
rises “around” the two cloisters.
The first is an extraordinary,
medieval triangular arbour
with an open gallery towards
lowered arches and columns in
black and white stone, while
the second cloister from the
17th century is squared. Most
unusual are the multicoloured
tiles that cover the inside walls
of the bell tower, similar to the
church of San Giovanni di Pré
(77).
39
C
C
the old town
It is the most important and most complete museum of Ligurian
sculpture as its collection presents a testimony of art that reaches down to its roots in the high Middle Ages. A remarkable sight
is the funeral monument for Margherita di Brabante, who died
of the pest in the 14th century. This is a masterpiece by Giovanni
Pisano. But the museum is also worth a visit for the numerous
works that have come from other ages and areas (such as France
and Tuscany), and for the devotional sculptures and antique
works made of wood and ivory.
With help of the electric four-wheel scooters from the Mobility
Service, people who have mobility difficulties can cope with the
steep street that leads from piazza Sarzano to the House of
Paganini.
Continuing westwards, at the corner of Stradone Sant’Agostino
on your right, you will see the Faculty of Architecture, which in earlier times used to be the seat of San Silvestro. According to the
wide-spread legend of Jacopo da Varagine, the hero Giano, who
arrived from Troy by sea, founded a fortification here at Sarzano.
As a matter of fact, excavations that were carried out in the area
have brought to light numerous traces of the 5th to the 3rd century
BC circle of walls.
Ascending from piazza Sarzano through Archivolto San Silvestro, after about 500m you
will arrive at the Casa
Paganini (Paganini’s house) in
piazza
Santa
Maria in Passione.
More information on the great
violinist Nicolò
Paganini can be
found on page
64 of this guide.
Casa Paganini
40
THE GENOESE LIFESTYLE
E ‘nt’a barca du vin ghe naveghiemu
‘nsc’i scheuggi
emigranti du rìe cu’i cioi ‘nt’i euggi
finché u matin crescià da puéilu
rechéugge
frè di ganeuffeni e dè figge
bacan d’a corda marsa d’aegua e de sä
che a ne liga e a ne porta ‘nte ‘na creuza
de mä
E nella barca del vino ci navigheremo sugli scogli
emigranti della risata con i chiodi negli occhi
finché il mattino crescerà da poterlo raccogliere
fratello dei garofani e delle ragazze
padrone della corda marcia d’acqua e di sale
che ci lega e ci porta in una mulattiera di mare
Fabrizio De André
the genoese lifestyle
FRISCIEU, PANISSA, PESTO AND FARINATA
Genoese cuisine is best described as simple. It is especially
valued for its skilled and balanced use of four principal, regional
ingredients – flour, vegetables,
olive oil and dried fish. These four
key ingredients are the secret to Genoa’s authentic delicacies.
Genoa’s pesto sauce is world famous. It is claimed that the
secret recipe is impossible to imitate because the unique taste
depends entirely on the quality of basil from the nearby village of Prà. Genoa also produces unmatched focaccias that can
be tasted with cheese, onions or sage. Another dish that must
be sampled is ‘sua maestà’ (meaning ‘his Majesty’) farinata.
The farinata is prepared with chickpea flour, local olive oil,
water and salt, and is cooked in a large baking pan in an oven,
to make large flatbread. It is delicious with artichokes and
bianchetti (tiny Mediterranean fishes).
The sciamadde (literally meaning ‘flames’) are long-established
shops and fried food stands that used to offer meals to
dockworkers, the notorious camalli. These traditional takeaways can be seen as fast food outlets way ahead of their time.
Baccalà Frisceu (traditional Genoese fried cod), stuffed zucchini
and cuculli (soft, fried potato balls), are often eaten by locals
on their lunch break whilst
walking along the
harbor or resting on
a bank in the
sun at the Porto Antico. You will
also find these traditional
local delicacies under the
porticos of Sottoripa
(E5/6), located on the
long promenade north of
the Porto Antico. In this area
42
the genoese lifestyle
you will also find many characteristic cafés and eateries that, due
the old architecture of the premises, remain at times inaccessible to wheelchairs due to small steps or the width of their entrance. Where the bars have arranged it, you can take advantage of
the many tables outside under the arches in every season.
Immersed in the scents, tastes and aromas of the traditional
Genoese cuisine, the medieval porticos of Sottoripa swarm with
life and atmosphere. The shops and bars offer something for every taste. The shops include fish mongers, wine shops, cafés and
artisan shops selling spices and dried or candied fruits, such as
Armanino (101). Sottoripa almost has not changed with time and
still buzzes with the vibrant traditions of dockworkers and sailors.
The strong columns of Sottoripa hold above their arches ancient
houses, their secrets and stories of centuries past.Tax evaders were
tied naked to the
columns as a form
of public humiliation in the Middle
Ages.
‘Friggitoria Carega’ (101), a popular and traditional
eatery, is located
on the Aquarium
level on via di SotSottoripa
toripa,specializing
in frisceu, fried sardines, fried cod and panissa. The famous ‘Gran
Ristoro’ (101) is further along via di Sottoripa. The take-away has
become a cult for locals, producing more than 150 different
types of panini. The long-standing eatery ‘Antica Sciamadda’
(101) is located at the corner of via San Giorgio, from where the
street continues up a slope. It offers traditional Genoese specialties including the torta Pasqualina in its classic version with
chard or with artichokes. Further along in via dei Giustiniani, the
small trattoria ‘Sâ-a-Pesta’ (101) makes incredible farinata, vegetarian ravioli and pansoti al sugo di noci (filled pasta with a delicious traditional nut-sauce).
43
the genoese lifestyle
THE SHOPPING STREETS
Via San Vincenzo (L8) is a long pedestrian
street that links Brignole train station with
the monumental bridge in via XX Settembre. This suburb’s popular origins are evident in groups of traditional Genoese 18th
and 19th century attached townhouses. The
architecture also includes some 16th century buildings and occasional, early Roman
influences and traces. The street offers countless
clothing outlets for young people, gadget stores, jewelers and
ice-cream parlors.
If you are coming from the direction of the Brignole train station
and are in a hurry, tasty snacks
on the run are available from
‘Baretto Gallese’ (101) (located at
number 42 red), where they
make extraordinary paninis
(especially the misto, meaning
‘mixed’ - with anchovies and salsa verde). For a piece of authentic
Genoese focaccia, we recommend ‘Mario’ (101). The deepvia San Vincenzo
rooted ‘Osteria Guglie’ (101) cooks typical Genoese, popular dishes, prepared after the original
traditions, such as panissa (deep-fried chickpea bread) and
farinata, boiled octopus and stuffed anchovies. There is also
‘Mannori’ (101) in via Galata (M7/8) on the right, a TuscanLigurian restaurant that knows how to prepare with the same
level of skill, specialties from both regions, including mandilli
al pesto (Lasagne with Pesto) and ribollita (Tuscan, bean and
vegetable soup), fiorentina (grilled T-bone steak) and stockfish.
In via Galata, towards piazza Colombo, ‘Panarello’ (101) specialize in biscuits, cakes, biscotti and pandolce, a traditional buttery, bread-like Christmas cake from Genoa, filled with raisins
and candied fruit.
44
the genoese lifestyle
The entrance to the Mercato Orientale is located on the right
(L8), beyond the square, less than 100 metres from via XX Settembre. The market is located in a one hundred-year-old castiron structure, which you can enter easily. Dozens of brightly
coloured stalls compete with their fresh fruit, vegetables, fish,
meat and flowers. There are also places for local specialties,
delicatessens, bakeries, and artisan shops.
Exit the Mercato Orientale onto via XX Settembre. Via Cesarea
and via Fiasella are located across the street. (L9) This shopping area is commonly called “quadrilatero”, meaning ‘squared’.
Via XX Settembre displays obvious Art Nouveau influences
with its sumptuously decorated buildings. The Genoese simply call this street ‘Via Venti’ (‘venti’ meaning 20) and love this
promenade for its great shopping. The street is home to all of
the famous Italian and international high street names. There
are also historical stores such as ‘Cabib’ (101), which sells carpets and beautiful textiles, such as mezzeri, antique draperies
that the Genoese brought home from their journeys to Asia
centuries ago. Here you will also find bookstores, such as Feltrinelli or Mondadori and music store ‘Fnac’ (101). Further up
the road, past the Church of Santa Maria della Consolazione
(which has a system installed for the hearing impaired), you
will arrive at the antique Crovetto (101), a shops that is not
only famous for its cut-to-measure textiles but also for its retained, nostalgic atmosphere in keeping with the era from when
it was founded. From the Monumental Bridge onwards,
Il Mercato Orientale
45
the genoese lifestyle
stretching until Piazza De Ferrari, welcoming porches and
tempting shop-windows face
each other and are highlighted
by the elegant pavement, comprised of beautiful mosaics.
Walk from Piazza De Ferrari following via San Lorenzo, thereby
heading towards the Caricamento and the harbour. Genoa’s
most popular shopping quarter is located in the old town’s
alleys. Continue to piazza Banchi (F6) just above the CaricaPiazza Banchi
mento. This piazza offers stalls
selling flowers, ethnic products, books, videos, DVDs and
second-hand vinyl and CDs. On one side you can see the Loggia dei Banchi, an important 16th century Classical building.
San Pietro, a church also built in the 16th century, stands on the
opposite side. It was originally built to commemorate the end
of the plague and was constructed on the second level, over
the shops that contributed to financing the work.
At the entrance to via Orefici (F6), do not miss the great marble bas-relief that sits above the shop doors on the right. The
small 15th century masterpiece of the Gagini masters depicts
the ‘Adoration of the Magi’. Further on, a gorgeous marble basrelief depicting the helmet of Mercury, a chalice and horns filled with fruit, fits between the two shop-windows of ‘Pietro
Romanengo’ (102), famous for its artisan sweets, jams, candied
fruits and syrups - prepared following ancient recipes and
unchanged artisan procedures.
Proceeding further, keeping Campetto on the right, you will
see a 17th century palazzo complete with original décor, designed by the architect Bartolomeo Bianco. Nowadays, the buiding has become the department store ‘Upim’ (112). In this
square you can find long-established stores, amongst which
‘Camisasca’ (102) is specialising in sporting goods. At the cor46
the genoese lifestyle
ner of via Scurreria, the boutique, ‘Pescetto’ (102) offers exclusive English and French brands including Hermès and Aquascutum. Opposite, the Palazzo Imperiale is an imposing sight.
It was built in the 16th century by the architect Castello (also
known as Bergamasco), who also decorated the interior in
stucco. The extremely spacious entrance hall is home to an
antiques shop, full of rare and interesting furniture and objects
from the 19th and 20th centuries
In piazza Soziglia (G6) it is difficult not to be won over by the
temptation of the aristocratic shop ‘Klainguti’ (102), a 19th century pastry and sweet shop with Swiss origins set in a glamorous Baroque environment. Here, Giuseppe Verdi loved eating
his brioches that would call Falstaff, which is the name of the
opera that he was working at the time. In the same small piazza, the shop-windows of the Sorelle Ascoli (102) show exclusive and fashionable lingerie.
Continue towards via Macelli di Soziglia, where a large delicatessen sells stockfish and baccalà, a traditionally prepared ,
dried cod. Amongst locals, it is said that ‘La Bottega dello Stoccafisso’ (the shop of the stockfish) (102) is the best place in
Genoa to buy this cod, which is caught and processed
in Norway, near the islands
of Lofoten.
This entire area is packed
with focaccerias, small cafés,
bars, sandwich shops, old
pharmacies, ice-cream counters and pizza stands.
Via macelli di Soziglia
47
the genoese lifestyle
THE GENOESE NIGHTLIFE
Twenty years ago, it would have been unimaginable that so
many people in search of fun and entertainment would find it in
Genoa’s old town. These days, crowds of youths pouring through
the alleys on Friday nights are commonplace. The changes have
been brought on by the reorganization of the city centre, but
above all, by the inclusion of pedestrian, and historical streets,
such as via Canneto il Lungo (F7). The city’s encouragement to
the establishment of bars, pubs, cafés, restaurants and clubs, has
resulted in a vast range of options packed in this area, which
cater for the most varied clientele: modern bars attract young
people from all over the world; tables outside the bars are the
perfect place to enjoy an aperitivo with friends and the various
restaurants prepare delicious dinners for the whole family.
The Café-Restaurant ‘Mentelocale’ (102), located inside the
Palazzo Ducale (87), is one of many typical bars where a traditional aperitivo can be enjoyed even during the winter months, as there are tables in the palazzo’s covered courtyard. After
enjoying a drink and some food from the buffet, you can exit
the palazzo with an elevator onto the newly paved piazza
Matteotti, take a right and continue down via San Lorenzo.
Continue until you arrive at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.
From here, enter the small alley via
Chiabrera (F7/8) on your left, which
leads past many traditional bars
and restaurants hidden in the little
streets of this area. Take via Giustiniani until you arrive in piazza del
Ferretto and further on through the
alleys onto piazza San Bernardo.
Here you will see ‘Moretti’ (107), a
deep-rooted bar that is very popular with the young Friday night
crowds, who socialise and dance
until late at night in an ambience of
times past and Genoese history.
48
the genoese lifestyle
Piazza delle Erbe
Before the flow of the nightlife carries you onto piazza delle
Erbe, the most popular piazza with the students of Genoa, be
sure to enjoy a tasty crêpe from ‘Triskell’ (102), in via san
Donato, or a delicious pizza in ‘Vico Biscotti’ (102). Finally arriving in piazza delle Erbe, within only a few metres of each
other you have the choice of traditional drinks and bites from
‘Fulvio’ (102), the refreshing cocktails of ‘Bar Berto’ (102), the
‘Café Latino’ (102), and the artisan ice-creams of the ‘Cremeria
delle Erbe’ (102), which is open until late at night. The mild climate of Genoa allows the bars to leave their tables outside
throughout the seasons, transforming the piazza into a great,
festive, lounge under the sky.
For newcomers to Genoese nightlife, there are also bars and
attractions in the vast and accessible area of the old port, the
Porto Antico. Outside the ‘Bigo’, an accessible, public panorama-elevator from which a breathtaking 360-degree view of
the city and its historical piers can be enjoyed, a popular nightspot is the terrace of the old palazzina del Millo where a relaxed atmosphere is complemented by good music, a glass of
wine and an outlook overlooking the nightlife of Genoa in the
bars “Sul Fronte Del Porto” (102) The newly restored harbour
side accommodates the ‘Mezzanotte Cocktail Bar’ (102), the
Brasserie Porto Carlo (102) and a Sushi Bar and Restaurant
49
the genoese lifestyle
WALKS:
CORSO ITALIA, NERVI AND THE LANTERNA
corso Italia
Corso Italia is an airy, enjoyable walk on wide and comfortable pavements that have recently been reconstructed. It winds
from the quarter of Foce, where you will also find the Fairground of Genoa (55), all the way to Boccadasse, offering a
fascinating panoramic view from Portofino to Capo Mele. The
first point of interest is Punta Vagno, with its lighthouse. This
area still mantains the rocky feature, which characterised the
entire coastline before the construction of Corso Italia in the
beginning of the last century. What used to be cliffs and sloping hills, today is the elegant residential area of Albaro.
The small fortress of San Giuliano and the remains of the original
defence walls are embedded in the hillside and can be viewed
from further along the promenade. Erected between 1819 and
1831, today it houses the barracks of the Carabinieri, the Italian
military police. Further down is the Abbazia di San Giuliano
d’Albaro, a former abbey, which today is a Department of Art
and Art Reviews. The abbey was founded in the 13th century by
the Friars of the Minorite convent and was passed on to the
Benedictine monks who expanded an existing building by constructing an adjacent convent. After having been deserted for
years, it has been fully restored and transformed into a monu50
the genoese lifestyle
mental complex with beautiful interior and exterior decors and
some traces of 15th century decorations.
The residential architecture of Corso Italia is also visible on the
mountainside. Quite impressive is the small castle with pagoda
roofs, immersed in a park with oriental geometries, an evocative
example of Deco ornamentation. Just before Boccadasse, you
can see a villa (resembling television screens), which was designed in the rationalist style and “signed” by Daneri.
The walk continues past a number of bars and ice-cream cafés
before concluding in front of the Church of Sant’Antonio. The
church is full of testimonies of maritime life and memories of
the fishermen who lived in this perfectly conserved village,
Boccadasse, overseen by the small church. Before descending
the steep pavement that leads to this corner of paradise, it is
possible to appreciate the conglomerate of old houses surrounding the small beach with the boats moored on the shore. In
this quarter, protected from traffic, amongst the characteristic
houses of fishermen next to the ocean, the maritime history
and atmosphere is alive and rich.
Borgo di Boccadasse
51
the genoese lifestyle
The promenade of Nervi
Nervi offers two contrasting landscapes:
the promenade by
the sea and the promenade through the
parks.
The public parks can
be accessed via the
small street adjacent
to the train station’s
car park (109) from
where a footpath leads also to the Anita
Garibaldi sea promenade.
Descend the steep
paving, accompanied
by the sea breeze
that drifts over the
wonderful promenade. Turn eastwards to the small beach of
Capolungo, or walk in the opposite direction towards the characteristic marina of Nervi. The walk is a priceless pedestrian
route leading closely along on the cliffs. Palm trees, maritime
pines, bougainvillea and agaves frame the panorama of Camogli, Ruta and the promontory of Portofino. Historical plates
along the walk explain that this area used to be a winter resort
due to its mild climate, and from the 19th century until the
beginning of the 20th century is was the preferred holiday destination of many important aristocrats from Russia and England.
The Saracen tower Groppallo stands along the journey to Capalungo. The 17th century tower was designed to withstand the
attacks from pirates. The slightly odd, white building, resembling a ship, houses the bar-restaurant ‘Marinella’ (www), where
Ligurian specialities are served. There are numerous bathing
establishments, however only “La Scogliera” is accessible and
52
the genoese lifestyle
the accessibility is limited only to the saltwater pool nestled
amongst the olive groves. The pool can be reached from the
park.
The parks of Nervi are an eight-hectare Eden: a gorgeous
blend of sumptuous 19th century garden architecture. Hundreds of species of exotic and Mediterranean plants help create a
paradise for all nature lovers. Especially worth mentioning is
the ‘Roseto’, a rose garden, located next to Villa Grimaldi, that
despite its close vicinity to the sea and the damaging effects
of the salt spray, is thriving beautifully and each year is enriched with more varieties, which can be adored over more than
10000 square metres. Other famous blooms include the Sandro, a deep red flower dedicated to the former Italian president Pertini; the Anita Garibaldi, with small pink flowers; the
Sivigliana and the Soraya, the flower dedicated to the princess
of Monaco. Three famed villas, the ‘queens of the park’, are easy
to find from via Capolungo, but unfortunately are not easily
accessible from the Anita Garibaldi promenade as they are
connected with the park by stairs and sloped paths.
The villas include Villa Luxoro, the summer residence of the
royal Savoia family, Villa Grimaldi, now Raccolta Frugone
Museum (91), and most importantly, Villa Serra, in which the
Gallery of Modern Art (80) was opened in December 2004.
The gallery displays 19th century paintings and sculptures
by masters that were considered to be ‘ahead of
their time’.
53
the genoese lifestyle
La Lanterna (The lighthouse)
From the ferry port Terminal Traghetti Di Negro (108), a raised path leads across a wooden walk, recently opened thanks
to the Provincia di Genova, to the Lanterna. The walk towards
the lighthouse is well maintained. It is then possible to walk
along the sea, the port and the industrial sector of the city and
to discover the city from a unique point of view. The first
lighthouse probably dates from the 13th century, a time when
Genoa was already considered to be one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean Sea. The lighthouse was built
in 1543 on top of the existing foundations and formed one
joined complex with the great city walls, the Mura Nuove, from
the year 1626. The lighthouse is built on two levels. Each level
is crowned with a double series of brackets interrupting the
ascending rhythm, making the agility of the structure evident.
The restoration works carried out during the 1960’s highlighted 18th century fresco of the Genoese coat-of-arms. La
Lanterna with its coat-of-arms is today the city’s symbol.
At the conclusion of the walk, you can
enjoy a view of the lighthouse and the
remains of the old city wall. A 17th century watchtower is located adjacent to
the entrance of the square. A closer
view of the monument, sitting on the
rocks, is accessible only via a steep
asphalted ascent. Recent improvements in accessibility to the fortress
have coincided with the opening of
the Park and the Museo della Lanterna (81). The
museum and park are easy
to reach by means of
electric scooters (113)
and the park’s toilets
are accessible to wheelchairs.
54
the genoese lifestyle
THE EVENTS OF THE FIERA DEL MARE
The Fiera di Genova (Fair of Genoa) is famous for two shows of
international reputation: the Salone Nautico and Euroflora.
This is the only existing fairground entirely built on the sea and
is equipped with multifunctional structures capable of hosting
exhibitions, sporting events of worldwide recognition and large concerts. The complex is comprised of pavilions, open spaces, marinas and spectacular covered areas. The complex is
undergoing expansion in the form of a pavilion, designed by
Jean Nouvel. The design incorporates characteristics of transparency and luminosity, which seems to blend in with the surrounding seascape, creating a visually fascinating background
for future events.
Euroflora, an exhibition of flowers and ornamental plants, is
held at the fairgrounds every five years. The most qualified floriculturists and nursery gardeners from Italy and abroad transform the fairgrounds into an immense multicoloured garden
capable of attracting thousands of visitors.
The International Boat Show (Salone Nautico) is held annually in October. The exhibition owes its fame to its size and quality, and is accentuated by the development of the new and exciting marina, now counting a total of 600 mooring sites. This
event is a fixed date for all who are passionate about the marine industry. Over 2000 boats are on show ranging from the
smallest leisure boat to super-yachts, together with the widest
choice of accessories and boating equipment.
Amongst the latest shows added to the calendar, ‘Slow Fish’,
the Sustainable Fishing, Expo organized by Slow Food, is one of
55
the genoese lifestyle
the most appreciated. This event is a journey for all of the senses on which you can taste, learn, and understand the sea, its
people, products and foods.
Local, annual antique and art exhibitions are much loved by the
Genoese and include the Antiqua, Tuttantico and ArteGenova.
Other exhibitions, popular for combining shopping and fun,
include Primavera Trade Fair, which offers each year from March to April a complete panorama of interior design, arts crafts,
hobby equipment and wine-gastronomy industries. Nataleidea-Ideaneve is a Christmas market that offers endless gift
ideas for shoppers ranging from crafts or gadgets to innovative
sports equipment and travel packages.
The Fiera di Genova is situated in the city-centre at the entrance
to the port area and not far from the Brignole train station. There is a bus stop for bus line 19 at the entrance to the fairgrounds
that links to the train station Brignole and the city-centre. Currently, none of the bus lines going to the fair are equipped to
transport wheelchairs.
At the most important shows, disabled visitors can find a
reception and information point on the left side of the
entrance area serviced by Terre di Mare (115). This is an information point for people with special needs and for tourism
without barriers, which also has a permanent office in the centre of Genoa. Managed by the Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna,
the services offered range from general information, maps with
special indications
for accessible routes to the hire of
electric four-wheeled scooters, which
allow people who
have
difficulties
walking, to move
around the fairgrounds easily and
independently.
Area Fiera
56
the genoese lifestyle
THE CITY OF THEATRES
Genoa was already known as the city of theatres prior to World
War II when a great number of Genoa’s theatres were bombarded and destroyed. Since the middle of the 1980’s, reconstruction of the public theatres has fully reinstated Genoa’s former
status as “The City of Theatres”.
Today Genoa has two major public theatres: the Carlo Felice
Opera House (98) and the Stabile ‘Teatro della Corte’ (98), a
drama production theatre connected to Italy’s most prestigious
drama school. Two excellent private theatres, Teatro della Tosse (98) and Teatro dell’Archivolto (99), whose renowned productions are also invited to tour in Italy and abroad, contribute
to the city’s cultural life. Both theatres enjoy experimenting with
innovative plays and adaptations of contemporary literature
such as Ian McEwan, Benni, Serra, Pennac and Altan.
Passionate attention to contemporary drama distinguishes performances at other theatres including Garage (unfortunately
inaccessible), Cargo (97) and the Hop Altrove (99).
The recently restored Teatro della Gioventù (98), financed by
the Region of Liguria, provides a modern venue for cabarets,
jazz and theatre in dialect.
The private theatre Politeama Genovese (97) completes
Genoa’s wide range of historical and contemporary theatres,
providing popular comedies and musicals.
Theatre lovers know
that the ‘piazza’ of
Genoa offers approximately 7000 seats
every night, an offer,
which, per capita,
rivals that of London and Paris.
Il Teatro Carlo Felice
57
the genoese lifestyle
GENOA FROM ABOVE: LA GUARDIA AND
IL MONTE
From the top of Mt. Figogna at the Santuario Nostra Signora
della Guardia (www), the view of Genoa surrounded by its
extensive frame of sea and mountains is majestic and mystical.
The sanctuary remembers the day, in 1490, when the Virgin
appeared to Benedetto Pareto and asked him to build a chapel
on the mountain. The chapel has since transformed into a great
(fully accessible) basilica in the style typical of the high Renaissance period, comprising of a Latin cross structure and three
naves. Beyond the frescos visible inside the church, it is worth
paying attention to the
hall of the ex-voto, for the
singular variety of the
objects left at the feet of
the Virgin Mary, in gratitude for her grace.
Il santuario della Guardia
Another interesting gallery of ex-voto is on display at the Santuario di Nostra Signora del Monte. The sanctuary conserves fine artworks, amongst which is also the polyptych of ‘The
Master of the Annunciation’ (1498), a painting by Domenico
Fiasella and Bernardo Strozzi. The rich artistic heritage in the
sanctuary (guided tours on request) is in part owed to the
devotion to the Madonna del Monte by the Genoese noble
families of the 17th and 18th centuries
Salita Nuova Nostra Signora del Monte, a narrow and steep
ascent, leads to the sanctuary located on top of a hill in San
Fruttuoso. There are no buses to the sanctuary; however it is
possible to drive. It is a short, but steep walk from the large
parking area at the church along the road. On request (+39
010 505854), a ramp is fitted to allow access to the church.
Disabled visitors are also allowed to park the car in a small
courtyard. Breathtaking views over the city can be enjoyed
from the terrace.
58
THE GREAT GENOESE
Sotto la torre orientale, ne le terrazze
verdi ne la lavagna cinerea
Dilaga la piazza al mare che addensa le
navi inesausto
Ride l’arcato palazzo rosso dal portico
grande:
Come le cateratte del Niagara
Canta, ride, svaria ferrea la sinfonia
feconda urgente al mare:
Genova canta il tuo canto!
Dino Campana
the great genoese
THE HOUSE OF CRISTOFORO COLOMBO
The so-called Casa di Colombo (Columbus house) stands in
vico Dritto Ponticello, ascending from piazza Dante towards
the Towers of Porta Soprana. The small stone house can be
found in the modern heart of the city, between imposing 20th
century skyscrapers. It stands adjacent to a small, reconstructed medieval cloister with flowered anthropomorphous
capitals. The site was once named the hill of Sant’Andrea.
Popular legend states that this was the home of Domenico
Colombo, a professional weaver, father of the famous navigator who discovered America.
Christopher Columbus was born on an unknown date in 1451
in vico dell’Olivella (the
quarter of Quinto also claims to be Columbus’ birthplace). He was christened in
the thousand years old church of Santo Stefano, which is
still in almost perfect condition and retains its original
architectural essence, visible
above the street from Via XX
Settembre.
Columbus
moved with his family to the
hill of Sant’Andrea when he
was 4 years old. Since his father, struggled to feed the family, he
therefore gratefully accepted the offer to work as a watchman at
Olivella Gate. This way, he was allowed to live in the house, owned
by the local monks.
The house of Christopher Columbus was completely restored
after a bombardment in 1684 by the King Louis XIV of France
which destroyed half of the city. The house is dwarfed by the
imposing Towers of Porta Soprana.
Further up from Columbus’ house stands the original city gate
between the two towers. A stone plate inscribed with the date
of construction, 1155, quotes in Latin: ‘I am defended by true
60
the great genoese
men, surrounded by wonderful walls and with my
strength I repel the enemy’s arms; if you bring
peace, you are allowed to knock on this door, if
you bring war, you will go away disappointed
and defeated’..
A NOTE ON ACCESSIBILITY:
Unfortunately, the House of Columbus (H8) is currently not accessible to wheelchairs. Howevever, it
can be seen from via Dante which leads to Piazza De
Ferrari. The Towers of Porta Soprana can be accessed from the
steeper via Soprana (coming from piazza Matteotti) or from
via Ravecca (coming from piazza Sarzano) (39).
61
the great genoese
ANDREA DORIA AND THE PALAZZO DEL
PRINCIPE
After extensive restoration works on the Palace of the Prince (p )
were completed in October 1995, the building was opened to
the public. From both a historical and an artistic point of view, it is
the most important monumental and decorative complex of 16th
century Genoa. Inspired, and occupied by Andrea Doria, a great
admirer and protagonist of European politics in the first half of
the 16th century, the noble residence is the only palace the Republic of Genoa has known in the course of its age-old history.
The Republic of Genoa owes important institutional reformations to the strategist Doria. The admiral reconciled with the
Spanish in 1528 and safeguarded the city’s independence.
Also noteworthy was Doria’s role as a patron of the arts. He contracted Perino del Vaga to decorate his palace. Vaga was a student
and collaborator of Raffaello, who brought the novelties of the
Roman environment to Genoa, deeply influencing the following
development of Genoa’s artistic culture and events. The visitors’
route leads past walls decorated in frescos from 1528 - 1533 by
Perino, through the grand entrance hall, the Loggia of the Heroes
(in which the most noteworthy personalities of the Doria family
are represented), the Sala della Carità Romana, the Salone delle
Caduta dei Giganti even into Doria’s four “private” rooms. Outstandingly evocative is also
the Galleria Aurea, in which a series of themed tapestries representing the Battle of
Lepanto is on display, which was carried out
in Brussels on cardboards by the great
Genoese painter Luca Cambiaso.
The rooms are furnished with elegant chandeliers and engraved
ornamental spirals by Filippo
Parodi, protagonist of the
Genoese school of the 17th
century, as well as with “show
62
the great genoese
furniture”. Furthermore, the famous portraits of Andrea Doria by
Sebastiano del Piombo and of Bronzino are conserved here.
Some of the halls in the east wing to the public, including the
private apartments of Peretta Usodimare, Andrea Doria’s wife,
have recently been opened. In the Hall of Neptune, the famous
tapestry narrating the Stories of Alessandro Magno can be
admired. The wall-hanging of circa forty m2 is considered one
of the most important tapestries of 15th century Italy and has
been weaved in Tournai, in Borgogna.
Terraces oversee a monumental Italian garden dominated by
16th century fountains of Triton and Neptune, some of the
numerous symbols of power of the admiral Doria. His palace is
famous for not only its artistic heritage and the important
architectural achievement but also for the memorable receptions and feasts Doria used to host. Popular reports state that
after lunch, the used silver cutlery was thrown into the ocean.
However, other malevolent accounts (by Alexandre Dumas)
claim that there would have been nets pre-cast in order to
recover the precious silverware..
NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY:
The pedestrian crossings that lead to the palace
are not accessible to wheelchairs. More information regarding the accessibility of the Palazzo del Principe is
available on page (86)
63
the great genoese
NICCOLÒ PAGANINI
Paganini, one of the most notable musicians of 18th and 19th century Europe, can
definitely be called the absolutely “Grand”
of the violin. He was an untiring traveller in an era in which the tale of the
virtuous traveller hardly existed; a
charismatic personality, fiendish
according to the myths, crossing
the whole of Europe proposing
music with magical suspense, a
master of dizzying virtuosity and the boldest harmonic inventions, destined to remain on the minds of composers such as
Franz Listz or Schumann, who would carry the genius of Paganini far beyond his own century. Great and Genoese, irreducibly
attached to his city despite his home town’s restrained appreciation. In fact, Genoa assisted his exceptional musical career
with detachment and even left his house and the entire quarter
of Madre di Dio to become the victim of building works for
financial interests during the seventies.
Since 2004 Niccolò has a new home, Casa Paganini, situated in
the former convent of Santa Maria in Passione, which is since its
restoration used as a Paganinian auditorium-museum. However, you will not find his famous Violin, the “Cannone”, here, which is kept save since his death in the also recently restored
Palazzo Tursi (85). After the great, Genoese violinist has also
been named one of the most important Violin Competitions in
the world, the “Premio Paganini”. The winner has the incredible,
exclusive honour and joy to play the instrument of the Great,
the Genoese, Niccolò Paganini.
NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY:
To reach the Casa Paganini in piazza Santa Maria in
Passione (F9), which in 600 BC used to be the first
urban centre of Genoa, we recommend to follow the route from
Itinerary C, page 40.
64
the great genoese
GENOA IN RHYME
Genoa and the poets. Genoese by birth, by choice and, often by
falling in love. From the great poets of the 20th century - Montale, Sbarbaro, Caproni – to the more recent names, who have
combined the art of poetry with the art of songwriting, such as
De Andrè, Paoli, Fossati, Tenco, Lauzi, to mention but a few. How
could Genoa make such a vivid impression on artists and poets
who lived here or even just stayed for a short while, like Dickens,
Nietzsche, Campana, Rimbaud, Valéry or Frénaud? To this frequently asked question there are many possible explanations.
There is the incredible mutability of its urban landscapes and
their ever crossing architectural styles, from shady alleys to
green corners overlooking an ecstatic, marine light: a city that
never cedes to amaze. But to the aesthetic reasons can be
added another more intimate.
In the lyrics of many famous songwriters (when the cat of Gino
Paoli jumps on the roofs of Boccadasse (51), or in the people of
the narrow alleys populating the ballads of De Andrè) we perceive Genoa not only as a simple creative cue but also as the
deep reason of poetics. This idea was condensed by Caproni in
two lines: “Genova di tutta la vita / mia litania infinita” [Genoa of
my whole life, my endless litany]. At times, Genoa’s poets also
let the pride of their belonging – not always a simple one – shine through their verse, a pride that wants this city to be the origin and in some way the final destination of their own artistic
journey:“Signore
di questo porto /
lo vedi mi avvicino anch’io, / vele
ancora tese, bandiera genovese, /
sono io” (I. Fossati). Lord of this
port / you see I
am getting close
too / tight sails,
Il borgo di Boccadasse
65
the great genoese
Genoese flag /that is me].
There are three places in particular where Genoa’s past
poets used to spend their
time, and where her contemporary artists can still be
found today.
Towards the end of the 19th
century and for most part of
the following one, the Galleria
Mazzini (17) and its cafés used
to be the favourite haunts of
Genoese literary debates. It
was in the Caffé Roma that
Guido Gozzano joined the
Galleria Mazzini
aesthetes of the beginning of
the century, and there he wrote letters and verse on the café’s
letterheads. In the middle of the gallery, a stone plate reminds
of the encounter between Sbarbaro and Montale, which
occurred here in the 1920s.
Every summer the Palazzo Ducale (33) hosts the International
Poetry Festival of Genoa, one of the most important international poetry events. Since 1995 this cultural event has appealed
to many of the world’s most important poets, allowing the joy
of poetry read by their authors, from Nobel prize winners to the
newest voices from all over the world.
Lastly, the company “Edizioni San Marco dei Giustiniani”, not
only a publishing house, is a real poetry refinery, thanks to the
untireable cultural activity of Giorgio Devoto. Besides the important critical contributions and poem collections, Edizioni San
Marco has the further merit of having issued a collection of all
the poems dedicated to Genoa by Giorgio Caproni, with the
title “Genova di tutta la vita”.The whole book resembles a declaration of love, a confession in verse of the “lancinante amore per
Genova che mi ha strutto l’intera vita” [the piercing love for
Genoa that has pined for all my life]..
66
the great genoese
MEMORIES IN AN OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Staglieno is one of the most
important monumental cemeteries in Europe. Since its opening
in 1851, hundreds of statues,
expressing the artistic languages
from Neoclassicism to Realism,
from Symbolism to Art-Deco,
have been collected here.
The great bourgeois families of
the 19th century entrusted their
commissions only to most skilled
sculpture of their time. Masters
such as Santo Varni, Lorenzo Orengo, Giovanni Scanzi, Santo
Saccomanno, Augusto Rivalta and Giulio Monteverde created
tombs and statues of the most evocative, exact and lifelike
resemblance of their loved ones. Women wrapped in cloaks,
caught in an absorbing dance with death, young abandoned
maids in the style of the new era and others, scantily dressed
lying on a matrimonial bed; groups of families surrounding the
death bed of a relative, man and women, fixed for eternity in a
moment of their everyday life or work, like the unforgettable
statue of the nut-seller Caterina Campodonico in the lower arcade in the westerly part of the cemetery; the man with the twirled moustache dressed in a frock coat and the lady wearing a
crinoline and a feathered hat: these personalities of marble and
bronze can be met in the arcades and fields, where they have
been placed for eternity in their natural and typically Romantic
background. The vast and varied grandeur of Mediterranean
monumentality is here combined with beautiful clearings and
groves of naturalistic northern-European cemeteries.
The charm of this scenery has left a profound impression on
artists such as Hemingway, Nietzsche, or Mark Twain who wrote
in one of his travel journals after visiting Genoa “the last visit
was to the cemetery, which I will still remember when I will have
forgotten the villas”.
67
the great genoese
It is therefore not surprising that amongst the thousands of
unknown inhabitants of this city of the dead, also number of
famous Genoese was buried in this fascinating place. Here, the
singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André found his last rest, in field
22 close to the side entrance, The architect Carlo Barabino, to
whom is owed not only the first design of the Staglieno cemetery but also numerous monuments of Neoclassical Genoa.
Here rest also the musician Novaro, the dialect author Gilberto
Govi and many protagonists of the Risorgimento such as Garibaldi’s redshirts and the famous patriot and politician Giuseppe Mazzini. Born in 1803 in the palazzo Adorno in via Lomellini, the palazzo today hosts the Museum of the Risorgimento
(95).
NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY:
To get to the Staglieno cemetery by car, take the
motorway exit Genova-Est. The entrance and the
paths in the gallery are accessible, however to use
the asphalted road leading up the hill, visitors who use a
wheelchair might need the help of another person. The busses to Staglieno are unfortunately not equipped with mobile
ramps for wheelchairs.
68
ACCESSIBILITY PROFILES
Si cammina nella vita complicata di
questi profondi sentieri
come si entrerebbe nel mare, nel fondo
nero d’un oceano bizzarramente
popolato.
Paul Valéry
Schede di Accessibilità
CRITERIA OF ACCESSIBILITY
La Cruna has gathered and assessed information on all aspects
of accessibility of a total of 500 structures, including museums,
cinemas, theatres and accommodations in Genoa, as well as bars
and restaurants in the city centre for people with special needs.
On the following pages, profiles of Genoa’s museums and theatres summarise the results of the accessibility survey as well as
information on the accessibility of the city’s commercial businesses mentioned in this guide.
The profiles regarding accessibility of accommodations, restaurants, bars and cinemas can be found on the website www.terredimare.it.
The most important measures taken for the accessibility profiles
were:
• entrance (height of steps where applicable, presence of a bell
at the entrance, a ramp or a stair elevator);
• elevators (doors >75cm, cabin>120 x 80cm);
• equipped toilets (door >75cm and internal space>150 x
150cm, approaching space> 80cm, horizontal handbars).
On Terre di Mare’s website, restaurants and bars have been subdivided into three groups, according to the degree of their
entrances’ accessibility:
• level 1: level 1: premises with a step < 2.5cm high;
• level 2: premises with a step from 2.5 cm to 4cm height or
equipped with a ramp or handicap lift;
• level 3: premises with a step between 4cm and 10cm height.
This symbol indicates premises and structures of
excellence, which means that they fully meet the
law requirements of accessibility in regards to
mobility impaired people .
(D.M. 236/1989 e D.P.R. 503/1996).
70
museums and exhibitions
ACQUARIO DI GENOVA
Porto Antico
Area: Old Town (E-6)
Phone: +39.010.23451
Web: www.acquariodigenova.it
Entrance: open daily. Reduced
entrance fee for visitors over 65 years
and for disabled visitors; free entry
for an accompanying person.
Bookings: Incoming Liguria
(+39.010.2345666).
The Aquarium of Genoa (24) offers the longest “underwater”
course in Europe, with 70 exhibition tanks and 800 different
marine species that can be seen here in their “natural” environments.
Arriving. By car: 20 meters from the Aquarium is a car park
with 780 parking spaces. Public Transport: 250 m to the bus
stop ‘Piazza Caricamento’ for bus lines 1, 12 and 13 (vehicles
equipped with a mobile ramp); 150 meters from the entrance
to the Metro station ‘San Giorgio’ (130).
Accessibility. The structure is accessible to wheelchair users
who want to move independently. The entrance for disabled
visitors is situated on the ground floor left of the building. The
Aquarium has special maps of the structure that inform on
accessible services, exhibition route and equipped toilets. The
Aquarium consists of two levels, connected through accessible
elevators. A tactile tank where fishes may be stroked can also
be reached from a wheelchair and is a particularly nice experience for visually impaired visitors. Guide dogs are welcome.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the Aquarium and move independently inside, using one of
the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
71
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’ANTARTIDE
Porto Antico
Palazzina Millo
Area: Old Town (E-7)
Phone: +39.010.2543690
Web: www.mna.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entrance fee for disabled
visitors, free entry for an
accompanying person.
The museum introduces its visitors to the Antarctica and to Italian expedition and research projects, with particular attention
to the sectors of biology and ecology. The museum displays in
an interactive and dynamic mode findings from the Antarctica,
spectacular films and environmental reconstructions, leading
visitors to an almost ignored, yet nonetheless fascinating and
incredibly rich continent.
Arriving. By car: 100 meters is a car park with 780 spaces; 100 m
to the car park of the Magazzini del Cotone with 676 parking spaces. Public transport: 50 m to the Metro station ‘San Giorgio’ (112).
Accessibility. The museum is fully accessible to visitors who use
a wheelchair: the entrance is on the first floor of the Palazzina
del Millo, which can be reached by an accessible elevator. Next
to the entrance doors is an intercom to call the staff. The museum
consists of one level, which is fully accessible. The toilets are
accessible and equipped and can be found on the ground floor
of the palazzina Millo.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
72
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DI ARCHEOLOGIA LIGURE
Villa Durazzo Pallavicini
Area: Pegli
Phone: +39.010.6981048
www.museoarcheologicogenova.it
Entrance: Mondays closed. Free entry
for visitors under 18 years, on Sundays
for residents of the City of Genoa;
reduced entrance fee for visitors over
65 years and disabled (free entry for
one accompanying person).
The National Museum hosts the biggest collection of Ligurian
archaeological findings from prehistory to proto-history; sepulchres, Palaeolithic objects and a rich collection of the pre-roman
excavations from around Genoa and Liguria, as well as a collection
of Greek and Roman Antiquity and of the Prince Odone of Savoia.
Arriving. By car: motorway A10, exit Genova Pegli. The museum
has a parking area.
Accessibility. Visitors who use a wheelchair can enter the
museum over a ramp that will be positioned by the staff. As
there is no bell outside the entrance, we advise you to call the
museum in advance and let them know the time of your arrival. The museum consists of two levels, which are connected
with an accessible elevator. The toilets are accessible and are
situated on the first floor. For visually impaired visitors, there
are touchable, three-dimensional models and Braille subtitles.
73
museums and exhibitions
BIBLIOTECA BERIO
Via del Seminario, 16
Area: Centre (H-9)
Phone: +39.010.5576010
Web: www.comune.genova.it
Entrance: closed on Sundays.
The library offers guided tours of the
building and the bookbinding
facilities.
Thanks to the information technologies and the spaciousness
of the Berio library, today this is both a technical library and a
cultural centre. Amongst the services offered in the library, there is the Servizio TestLab, aimed at those who are visually
impaired or blind. Here, books can be consulted using a video
integrator and vocal synthesis software, it is also possible to
hire out large letters printed books or Braille books. Individual
Braille printing service is also available. All the services are free.
Arriving. By car: two parking spaces reserved for disabled visitors
are in the underground parking area. To access to the parking
area call through the intercom at the gate (which is placed at a
height of 160cm).The car park is connected with the library through an accessible elevator.
Accessibility. The pedestrian road leading to the entrance is
extremely steep for who uses a manual wheelchair on his own.
The entrance doors open to the outside and are therefore difficult to open. The library has two floors, which are connected
with an accessible elevator. The toilets o n the ground floor are
accessible and equipped.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the library and move independently inside, using one of the 4wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 –
www.terredimare.it)
74
museums and exhibitions
CASTELLO D’ALBERTIS
Corso Dogali, 18
Area: Center (D-1)
Phone: +39.010.2723820 –
+39.010.2723464
Web: www.castellodalbertisgenova.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays except
for bank holidays. Reduced entrance
fee for disabled visitors, free entry for
an accompanying person. Bookings:
Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666)
This is an extraordinary spot for a panoramic view of the city.
Castello D’Albertis (14) recently renovated, offers you a look
into the cultures of the world through its collections from Africa, Oceania and America, displayed in the former XIXth centuy
residence of Captain D’Albertis.
Arriving. By car: the Castello has its own car park. Public Transport: 50m to the Principe train station, from where a public
elevator, the Ascensore di Montegalletto, leads up to the castle
(111).
Accessibility. The Castello is fully accessible for visitors who
use a wheelchair and want to move independently. The
museum consists of several levels which are connected with
an elevator and ramps. The staff will inform of the routes to
take. The accessible and equipped toilets are on the ground
floor. Inside the museum is an accessible café (call in advance
to ensure that it will be opened). Thanks to the recently improved pedestrian crossing in corso Dogali, people with mobility
impairments can now reach the Castello and move independently.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
75
museums and exhibitions
CITTÀ DEI BAMBINI
Magazzini del Cotone
Modulo 1, first floor
Porto Antico (C-7)
Phone: +39.010.2475702
Web: www.cittadeibambini.net
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entrance fee for disabled
visitors and free entry for an
accompanying person. Bookings:
Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666)
This is the first science centre in Italy for children and teens
from 3 to 14 years. It offers two different routes, one for children from 3-5 years and another for 6-14 year olds, displaying
static and dynamic elements for adults and children to interact,
play and make small and big discoveries that are both fun and
educational. The motto of the Kids City is simple and effective:
“do it yourself or do it together to discover and learn while
having fun”.
Children can discover a small world full of excitement and useful answers to broaden their horizon and knowledge. The
accompanying adult is meant to mediate these encounters.
Arriving. By car: next to the entrance of the Magazzini del
Cotone is a parking area with 676 spaces.
Accessibility. The entrance of the Magazzini del Cotone is
accessible and an accessible elevator connects to the first floor.
The place consists of one level of 2700 m2. The toilets are also
accessible and equipped. Baby changing facilities are also available.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the Kids City and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
76
museums and exhibitions
COMMENDA DI PRÉ
Piazza della Commenda
Porto Antico
Area: Old Town (C-2)
Phone: +39.010.265486
Web: Entrance: opened only on occasion
of events
The church and the Commenda of S. Giovanni di Pré (21) are one
of the most important architectural ensembles of the Genoese
Middle Ages and possibly one of the most complex for discussion
of its history and origins. The church and the Commenda used to
be occupied by Templar Knights, who were accommodated in the
Commenda while the hospital granted shelter to pilgrims. The
Commenda used to be connected directly with the church via
internal doors. Built in the 12th century to give hospitality to pilgrims and knights on their journeys to the Holy Land, the complex, which has been restructured many times, consists of three
levels. An exceptional place on the ground floor is the long, exceptional hall with high columns: the antique hospital.
Arriving. 250m from the Commenda is the Aquarium’s car park
with 780 spaces. Public transport: 100m from the Commenda
is a bus stop for bus lines 18, 19 and 35, (vehicles not equipped); 150m to the Principe Metro station (112).
Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible for wheelchair
users who want to move independently. From via Gramsci, the
street descends rather steep, leading to the arches. The commenda consists of two levels, which are connected with an
accessible elevator. The layout, and hence the accessibility of
the exhibition spaces, vary depending on the events.
77
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DIOCESANO
Via Reggio 20 r
Area: Old Town (G-7)
Phone: +39.010. 254150
Web: www.diocesi.genova.it/
museodiocesano/
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entrance fee for disabled
visitors, accompanying person free.
In the 12th century cloister of “Canonici di San Lorenzo” (32), the
recently restored museum hosts numerous works of artists
who represent a significant testimony of sacred art in Genoa.
Amongst the works on display, there is the monumental tomb
of the Fieschi family, the great panels by Gregorio De Ferrari,
canvasses by Luca Cambiaso and Perin del Vaga as well as Ligurian paintings of the 14th and 15th centuries, archaeological
finds, stone reliefs, relics, silvers and embroideries.
Arriving. By car: 500m to the Aquarium’s car park with 780 spaces. 250m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with 500 spaces.
Public transport: 200m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112).
Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to visitors in a
wheelchair who want to move independently. The museum
consists of two levels connected with an accessible elevator.
The museum’s staff inform on the exhibition route inside. The
equipped and accessible toilets are in the basement.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
78
museums and exhibitions
GALATA, MUSEO DEL MARE
Porto Antico
Area: Old Town (C-3)
Phone: +39.010.2345655
Web: www.galatamuseodelmare.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entrance fee for people
over 65 years and disabled visitors,
free entry for an accompanying
person. Bookings: Incoming Liguria
(+39.010.2345666)
The museum (23) is situated in the old arsenal, where the Republic of Genoa used to built and launch its own fleet. The museum
stretches over 6000m2, illustrating the maritime development of
the port and the city with spectacular reconstructions of nautical
environments.
Arriving. By car: 200m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780
spaces (109). Public transport: 250 m to the bus stop ‘Piazza Caricamento’ for bus lines 1, 12 and 13 (vehicles not equipped); 50m
to the Metro station “Darsena” (111).
Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to wheelchair users,
although the entrance doors can be difficult to open and the
paving is not always even. The museum consists of three levels,
connected with an accessible elevator. On the second floor it is
possible to explore a brig-schooner, thanks to a ramp that has
been positioned next to it. For visually impaired visitors, mobile
devices will be provided for a complete audio-tour vividly describing their environment during the visit. The interactive, digital
guide has a system which locates 79 different radiofrequencies
and plays the audio-guide’s files according to the visitor’s location.
There are accessible and equipped toilets on all three floors of
the museum, although they are not adequately indicated.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the
museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098)
79
museums and exhibitions
GAM - GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA
Via Capolungo, 3
Area: Nervi
Phone: +39.010.3726025
Web: www.gamgenova.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entry fee for disabled
visitors, accompanying person free.
The gallery is situated in the elegant 17th century villa Saluzzo
Serra and is part of the Polo dei Musei and the Parks of Nervi
(52). The National Museum hosts more than 4500 artworks, paintings, sculptures, sketches and woodcuts, dating from the beginning of the 19th century to today..
Arriving: By car: 2 parking spaces reserved for disabled people
in via Capolungo next to the entrance of the museum; 130 spaces at the car park of the Genova Nervi train station (109), connected with the museum via a path through the park of ca.
400m (52).
Accessibility. The entrance for people who use a wheelchair is
situated on the right side of the building where a video-intercom is installed. The museum consists of three levels. The
ground-level and first floor are connected with an accessible
elevator, while the elevator that connects the first and second
floor, has a non-automatic door (75cm) and the cabin’s dimensions are only 82x88cm, however it still is accessible. The toilets
are equipped and accessible.
80
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DELLA LANTERNA
Passeggiata della Lanterna
Terminal Traghetti
Area: Centre
Phone: +39.010.910001
www.provincia.genova.it/lanterna/
Entrance: Saturday, Sunday and bank
holidays from 10.00-18.00; weekdays
on request. Reduced entrance fee for
disabled visitors, free entry for an
accompanying person.
Inside the 19th century fortifications, built by Savoy as a protection for the “Porta della Lanterna” (the lighthouse gate), in 2004
a modern multimedia museum has been set up, where visitors
can experience memories and facts of the city of Genoa through
a vast repertoire of archived and contemporary films and multilingual visual materials.
Arriving. The museum can only be reached by foot over the
Passeggiata della Lanterna (the lighthouse walk), which is ca.
600m long (54). The nearest car park is the Terminal Traghetti.
Public transport: lines 1, 2 and 3 (vehicles not equipped).
Accessibility. At the end of the path, you might need assistance
to overcome the long slope that ends at the Park of the Lighthouse and the entrance of the museum. Inside the museum-fortification, the pavement of the exhibition route consists of cobblestones that can make it difficult to move in a wheelchair. The toilets are equipped, accessible and are situated in the adjacent
Park of the Lighthouse, which can be reached with the assistance of an accompanying person.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
81
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO LUZZATI A PORTA SIBERIA
Old Port
Area: Old Town (D-7)
Phone: +39.010. 2530328
Web: www.museoluzzati.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Disabled visitors have free entry,
reduced entrance fee for
accompanying persons and visitors
over 65 years.
Porta Siberia used to be the old boundary between the city
and the sea. Designed in 1500 by the famous architect Galeazzo Alessi, this modern cultural centre today hosts the Luzzati
Museum, named after the Genoese set-designer and illustrator
Emanuele Luzzati. The museum consists of scenic materials,
designs, illustrations that show the innovative productions of a
lifetime in relation with Genoa herself.
Arriving. By car: right outside the museum: car park “Porta
Siberia”; 50m from the museum: car park Magazzini del Cotone
with 676 spaces; 200m to the car park of the Aquarium with
780 spaces. Public transport: 100m to the Metro station ‘San
Giorgio’ (111).
Accessibility. The museum can be accessed thanks to the assistance of the staff who will assist you overcome a step of ca.
8cm to reach the second entrance in via del Molo. However,
there is no bell outside the museum to call the staff. Therefore
we advise you to call the museum before you arrive. The
museum consists of one accessible floor; the toilets are equipped and accessible.
82
museums and exhibitions
MUVITA - SCIENCE CENTRE
Viale Marconi, 165
Area: Arenzano (30km from Genoa)
Phone: +39.010.910001
Web: www.muvita.it
Entrance: on Mondays and Fridays
opened only on request. Reduced
entrance fee for disabled visitors, free
entry for an accompanying person.
The Muvita Science Centre was born 11 years after the most
serious disaster of the Mediterranean, the sinking of the motor
ship Haven with 144000 tons of petrol, whose wreck is in the
golf of Arenzano 70 meters deep and one mile from the
museum. Today, the wreck presents an extraordinary “living”
laboratory underwater and a resource of knowledge and awareness. The Muvita is entirely dedicated to climate changes stimulated by men and offers a fascinating route to discover our
planet, its threats and the ways in which each of us can help.
Arriving. By car: motorway A10 exit Arenzano. 30m to reserved parking. To cross the street, you need to overcome a step
in the pavement of about 18cm.
Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to visitors who
use a wheelchair and whish to move independently. The
museum consists of two floors, which are connected with an
accessible elevator at the entrance. The toilets are equipped
and accessible and situated on the ground floor. The museum’s
interactive panels can also be reached by people in wheelchairs.
83
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO NAVALE
Villa Doria, Piazza Bonavino, 7
Area: Pegli (15km from Genoa)
Phone: +39.010.6969885
Web: www.museonavale.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for disabled
visitors, free entry for an accompanying
person, as well as for visitors under 18
and over 65, on Sundays and for
residents of the city of Genoa.
In the Renaissance villa of Giovanni Andrea Doria, maritime
Genoese collections from the 11th until the 16th centuries are
on display. The museum also hosts archaeological findings
from the ocean (bombs and culverins, pieces of artillery), as
well as documents, arms, paintings, models of ancient ships,
different types of boats and instruments of navigation.
Arriving. motorway A10, exit Genova Pegli. By informing the
museum’s personnel of your arrival in advance, you will be able
to drive to the museum’s entrance. The car can then be parked
in the spaces along the street or in the museum’s car park..
Accessibility. The staff will accompany visitors who use a
wheelchair to the second entrance at the back of the museum
which has a ramp fitted over the stairs. The museum consists of
two floors; the toilets on the ground floor are equipped and
accessible.
84
museums and exhibitions
PALAZZO BIANCO - PALAZZO TURSI
Palazzo Bianco
Via Garibaldi, 11
Area: Old Town (F-5)
Phone: +39.010.5572193
Web: www.museopalazzobianco.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for visitors over 65
years and disabled visitors; accompanying person free.
The Gallery of Palazzo Bianco displays an important collection
of European, Italian and Genoese art from the 16th and 17th
centuries. The museum in the Palazzo Bianco is internally connected with Palazzo Tursi, the most magnificent building of
16th century Genoa, and also the former seat of the City Council. There, you can visit the monumental rooms and the historical gardens in the back.
Arriving. By car: 600m to the car park on Piazza Piccapietra
with 500 spaces. Public transport: 300m to the bus stop of lines
39 and 40 (equipped vehicles); 500 m to the Metro station “De
Ferrari” (112).
Accessibility. The staff of Palazzo Bianco will provide a mobile
ramp at the entrance. The bell to call the staff is on the right
side of the entrance. The museum consists of three floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The route continues to Palazzo Tursi via a provisional foot-bridge, on which
the staff position a ramp to overcome the 5cm step. The toilets
are in the entrance hall and in Palazzo Bianco on the second
floor; both are equipped and accessible.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
85
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DI PALAZZO DEL PRINCIPE
Piazza del Principe,4
Area: Centre (A-2)
Phone: +39.010.255509
Web: www.palazzodelprincipe.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for visitors
over 60 years and disabled visitors,
free entry for an accompanying
person. It is advised to book in
advance.
In the halls of this prestigious palace, commissioned by Andrea
Doria in the 16th century, frescos, paintings and sculptures of
some of the most important artists such as Perin del Vaga, Piola, Tavarone, Cambiaso, Tiziano and Castello have been preserved. The valuable collection of tapestries from 1460 on the life
of Alessandro Magno has recently been restored.
Arriving. By car: Informing the museum in advance of your
arrival, you can use its private car park. Public transport: 100m
to the bus stop of bus lines 18, 19, and 20 (vehicles not equipped); 150m to the Metro station “Principe” (112). The path leading to the museum includes a pedestrian crossing with a
step.
Accessibility. To enter the museum, the staff will assist you by
mounting the wheelchair on a stair-lift. The museum consists
of one level and does not present any other obstacles. The toilets are equipped but not accessible, since there are 4 steps
that need to be overcome. To access the garden with the fountains of Neptune you might need assistance, since the two fitted ramps are fairly steep and the paths are not easily.
86
museums and exhibitions
PALAZZO DUCALE
Piazza Matteotti, 9
Old Town (G-7)
Phone: +39.010.5574000
Web: www.palazzoducale.genova.it
Entrance: open every day. Opening
times of the exhibitions: 9.00 – 19.00
Tuesday – Sunday, closed on
Mondays. Reduced admission fee for
disabled visitors and free entry for an
accompanying person. .
Throughout hundreds of years of history, the Palazzo Ducale
has been a place of power for the Republic and also the residence of the Doges. After ten years of restoration works the
palazzo today is not only a historical building but also an active centre for cultural and social initiatives of the city.
Since 2001, the Palazzo is, thanks to the concession of the City
of Genoa, at nr.72 in piazza Matteotti, also home the office of
“Terre di Mare”, an information-point for accessibility and tourism without barriers of the Province of Genoa (115).
Arriving. By car: 200m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with
100 spaces. public transport: 30m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112).
Accessibility. The accessible entrance is in Piazza De Ferrari. All
levels of the Palazzo are connected with an accessible elevator
(but watch out for the quickly closing doors). The Tower has
been found inaccessible to visitors in a wheelchair. The toilets
on each level are equipped and accessible. You can also use the
equipped and accessible toilets of Terre di Mare in piazza Matteotti 72 red.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it))
87
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DI PALAZZO REALE
Via Balbi, 10
Area: Old Town (D-3)
Phone: +39.010.2710236
Web: www.palazzorealegenova.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays. Free
admission for disabled visitors and
an accompanying person, visitors
under 18 and over 65 years.
The gallery of the Palazzo Reale (88) is both a museum and a
historical residence. The luxurious 17th century villa, former
patrician home of noble families (Balbi, Durazzo, Savoia) preserves antique furniture, works of art and precious household
objects that date from the 17th to the 19th century that are
still in perfect condition. Its grand halls host a rich collection of
paintings that include works of many famous Italian and foreign artists (Van Dyck, Tintoretto, Strozzi) and of the Genoese
school (Piola, Grechetto, Schiaffino), as well as sculptures by
Filippo Parodi. Not to be missed is the collection of Genoese
furniture from the 17th and 18th century.
Arriving. By car: 500 m to the car park of the Aquarium with
780 spaces; public transport: 34, 35 and 37 (not equipped with
a mobile ramp); 150m to the Metro station “Darsena” (112) and
to the Piazza Principe train station (105).
Accessibility. The museum’s staff will provide a ramp to assist
you overcome the three steps at the entrance. The museum
consists of one level, which is located on the third floor and can
be reached by an accessible elevator. Accessible toilets are
located on the museum floor.
88
museums and exhibitions
PALAZZO ROSSO
Via Garibaldi, 18
Area: Old Town (FG-5)
Phone: +39.010.5574972
Web: www.museopalazzorosso.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for visitors over 65
years and disabled visitors, free entry
for an accompanying person.
The National Museum is part of the ‘museums-street - Strada
Nuova’, together with the Palazzo Bianco and the Palazzo Tursi.
In the luxurious corner of the 17th century villas, the rich collection of paintings of the Brignole-Sale Family is on display
from the span of more than two centuries.
Arriving. By car: 600m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with
500 spaces. Public transport: 100m to the bus stop of lines 19 and
20 (vehicles not equipped) and the bus stop of lines 39 and 40,
which run equipped vehicles; 500m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112).
Accessibility. The museum is accessible to wheelchair users.
There are two elevators connecting the four floors of the
museum and the renovated Auditorium of the Palazzo Rosso.
The toilets in the basement can be reached with an elevator
and are equipped and accessible.
Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach
the museum and move independently inside, using one of the
4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098
– www.terredimare.it)
89
museums and exhibitions
GALLERIA NAZIONALE DI PALAZZO SPINOLA
Piazza Pellicceria, 1
Area: Old Town (F-5)
Phone: +39.010.2705300
Web: www.palazzospinola.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays. Free
entry for disabled visitors and an
accompanying person.
The evocative area of the 16th century Palazzo Spinola still
bears an intact atmosphere of a 17th and 18th century residence, which today hosts a National Gallery with works by
some of the greatest Genoese, Flemish and European artists,
such as Rubens, Van Dyck, Grechetto and Valerio Castello, as
well as an important collection of ceramics.
Arriving. By car: 400m to the car park of the Aquarium with
780 spaces. Public transport: 300m to the Metro station “San
Giorgio” (112).
Accessibility. The entrance of the Palazzo has a 5cm step. The
National Gallery is partially accessible: the museum consists of
four floors, some of which are connected with an accessible
elevator. Inaccessible are the mezzanine floor and the fourth
floor. The accessible toilets are on the first floor at the end of a
flight of stairs with a stair lift, which will be operated by the
staff.
90
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO RACCOLTE FRUGONE
Villa Grimaldi Fassio,
via Capolungo 9
Area: Nervi
Phone: +39.010.322396
Web: www.raccoltefrugone.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for disabled
visitors, free entry for an accompanying
person and visitors over 65 years and
visitors less than 18 years.
The national museum has its seat in the 17th century villa Griamaldi Fassio, where important 19th and 20th century art collections are on display. The paintings, sculptures and drawings
of Italian and foreign artists include Bistolfi, Fontanesi, Mancini,
Messina, Segantini, Signorini, Boldini, Milesi, Tito, Michetti and
Sorolla y Bastida and have been collected by the Frugone
brothers.
Arriving. By car: There is a reserved parking area next to the
entrance of the Gallery of Modern Art in Via Capolungo; 130
spaces in the car park of the Genova Nervi train station with a
path (ca. 450 meters) through the public park leading to the
museum (52).
Accessibility. Access to the museum is possible thanks to the
staff, who will assist you to overcome a step outside the second
entrance. There is no bell outside and we therefore advise you
to call the museum before you arrive. The museum consists of
three levels, which are connected with a small elevator (65cm
wide doors and 123x96cm inside the cabin). The museum can
provide a wheelchair that fits these dimensions. The toilets are
situated on the ground floor. Although they have no washbasin and are not specially equipped, it is still possible for visitors
in a wheelchair to use them.
91
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DI SANT’AGOSTINO
Piazza di Sarzano, 35 r
Area: Old Town (FG-9)
Phone: +39.010.2511263
Web: www.museosantagostino.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for disabled
visitors; free entry for an
accompanying person, visitors under
18 and above 65 and residents of the
city of Genoa.
The complex of the Agostinian Covent with medieval origins
(39) is today a museum hosting frescos, sculptures, and
archaeological findings from the 10th to the 18th century. Next
to works of Schiaffino, Castello, Domenico Piola, Luca Cambiaso, Parodi, you will also find masterpieces by Giovanni Pisano,
Pierre Puget and Antonio Canova. Not to miss is the topographic collection, which displays maps from various eras and
important historical documentations.
Arriving. by car: there are two reserved parking spaces in piazza Sarzano; 500m to the car park of Carignano (109) with 100
spaces. Public transport: opposite the museum is the Metro
station “Sarzano” (112).
Accessibility. The staff of the museum will provide a mobile
ramp for the steps outside the entrance. There is no bell outside and we therefore advise to call the museum before you arrive. The museum has three levels, which are partially accessible:
some of the halls are inaccessible due to steps; the second floor
is fully accessible. The accessible toilets are on the ground floor.
You can reach the triangular cloister of Sant’Agostino via an
external ramp.
92
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE
Via Brigata Liguria, 9
Area: Centre (M-9)
Phone: +39.010.564567
Web: www.museodoria.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entrance fee for visitors
over 65 years, free entry for disabled
visitors and an accompanying
person, visitors under 18 years and
on Sundays also for residents.
The National Museum Giacomo Doria, born in 1867, is internationally renowned in scientific circles for its three and a half
million pieces from all over the world. Its collection of high
scientific value is mostly zoological, but also botanic, mineral,
stone and fossils can be studied here. Particularly worth mentioning are the ornithological collections, those of mammals,
the rich collection of insects and the hall dedicated to palaeontology.
Arriving. By car: having arrived at the museum, it is possible to
leave the car in the staff car park in via Maccaggi 92 red; 200m
to the car park of Park Vittoria with 1100 spaces (109). Public
transport: from Piazza De Ferrari by bus line 17/ (equipped
vehicles), which stops 50m from the museum.
Accessibility. Informing the museum in advance of your arrival, you can use its private car park. The entrance for disabled
visitors is in via Macaggi 92 and is fitted with a stair lift, which
will be operated by the museum’s staff. There is a video-intercom and the entrance is signed out. The museum consists of
two floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator.
The halls of the museum are barrier-free. The toilets on each
floor are equipped and accessible..
93
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DEL TESORO DI SAN LORENZO
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Area: Old Town (F-7)
Phone: +39.010.2471831
Web: www.museosanlorenzo.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for visitors
over 60 years and disabled visitors;
accompanying person free.
The National Museum is situated in the basement of the San
Lorenzo Cathedral, displaying masterworks of goldsmiths and
sacred art from the 11th to the 19th century, antique silverware of exceptional artistic importance and art linked to the cult
of the cathedral and the history of Genoa.
Arriving. by car: 500m to the car park of the Aquarium with
780 spaces; 250m to the car park Piccapietra (109) with 500
spaces. Public transport: 200m to the Metro station “De Ferrari”
(112).
Accessibility. The entrance to the museum is inside the Cathedral, which you can enter from the side of via San Lorenzo over
a steep ramp, which might require the assistance of another
person. You might also need assistance to open the heavy, antique doors of the Cathedral.
The staff of the museum will show you to an alternative, accessible entrance. The museum is partially accessible as some
small steps are present. There are no accessible toilets in the
museum.
94
museums and exhibitions
MUSEO DEL RISORGIMENTO
Via Lomellini, 4
Area: Old Town (EF-4)
Phone: +39.010.2465843
Web: www.istitutomazziniano.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced admission fee for visitors
over 60 years and disabled visitors;
accompanying person free.
The museum is situated in the house where Giuseppe Mazzini
was born. Its collection of documents, uniforms, flags, significant
objects and paintings illustrate a historic journey through time:
from Balilla to Rome, the capital of a united Italy, and a weapons
room. Two new sections have recently been opened to illustrate
the rich background of the Risorgimento: one is dedicated to
Goffredo Mameli and the Italian National Anthem, the other to
Garibaldi and his heroic deeds. The museum was transferred into
via Lomellini in 1934 and became, together with the archive and
the library, one of the components that form the Mazziniano
Institute.
Arriving. 400 m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces; public transport: 250 m to the Metro station “Darsena”
(112).
Accessibility. The main entrance has a step of 10 cm height
and there is no intercom outside to call museum’s staff. We therefore advise visitors to call in advance for assistance. An accessible elevator connects the three floors of the museum and will
be operated by the staff. The signs for the visitors’ route in the
museum are clearly visible and there are equipped and accessible toilets on the ground floor.
95
museums and exhibitions
WOLFSONIANA
Via Serra Gropallo, 4
Area: Nervi
Phone: +39.010.3231329
Web: www.wolfsoniana.it
Entrance: closed on Mondays.
Reduced entry fee for disabled
visitors and free entry for an
accompanying person.
In Wolfsoniana, selected objects of the Wolfson collection,
including furniture, paintings and precious household objects
from 1880 to 1945 are displayed in surroundings that still hold
the feel and taste of their time. Micky Wolfson emphasised the
importance of an authentic ambience by arranging his collection chronologically and thematically, taking into account cultural changes and artistic movements. The museum allows a
profound in-sight into subjects such as the evolution in taste
and style of decorative arts, architectural development and the
relationship between art and political propaganda, to name
but a few.
Arriving. By car: 2 parking spaces reserved for disabled visitors
in via Capolungo next to the entrance of the Museum of Modern
Art; 130 parking spaces outside the Nervi Genova train station.
Accessibility. The street leading to the entrance is quite steep .
The Museum is fully accessible for visitors in a wheelchair. The
museum consists of two floors, which are connected with an
accessible elevator. The show rooms are fully accessible and
free of any architectural barriers. On the first floor are equipped and accessible toilets.
96
Theatres
THEATRES
AUDITORIUM MONTALE
Galleria Cardinal Siri – Area: Old Town [GH-7]
phone: +39.010.53811 - www.carlofelice.it
entrance: the accessible elevator can only be operated by the
staff.
seats: reserved seats in the upper rows of the seats
toilets: accessible and equipped inside the theatre
NUOVO INSTABILE
Via Cecchi 19r – Area: Genoa City
phone: +39.010.592625 - www.cinemagenovacentro.it
entrance: a stair lift for wheelchair users has recently been
installed. Please call for assistance
seats: reserved seats at the side of the third row
toilets: accessible and equipped
POLITEAMA GENOVESE
Via Bacigalupo 2 – Area: Centro [I-5]
phone: +39.010.8393589 - www.politeamagenovese.it
entrance: To arrive in the gallery use the entrance on street
level, which is accessible; to enter the stalls, which are below
ground level, you need to overcome a 3cm high step; we advise
to contact the theatre before your arrival as a bell outside the
entrance is absent. Reserved seats in the gallery and the stalls
toilets: accessible and equipped in the gallery
TEATRO CARGO
Piazza Odicini 9 - Area: Voltri
phone: +39.010.694240 - www.teatrocargo.it
entrance: accessible
seats: 2 reserved seats in the first row
toilets: accessible and equipped, but there is little space to
manoeuvre
97
Theatres
TEATRO CARLO FELICE
Passo Eugenio Montale 4 – Area: Old town [GH-7]
phone: +39.010.53811 - www.carlofelice.it
entrance: accessible
seats: 4 reserved seats at the top of the stalls. The auditorium
has a device installed for people who use hearing aids. The
elevator can only be operated by the staff.
toilets: accessible and equipped
TEATRO DELLA CORTE
Via E. F. Duca d’Aosta – Area: Center [N-9]
phone: +39.010.5342200 - www.teatro-di-genova.it
entrance: double-heavy doors at the entrance; an intercom
can be found outside the entrance, however we do advise to
call by phone before you arrive.
seats: 2 reserved seats in the back of the seats
toilets: accessible with assistance, the door width is 110 cm
TEATRO DELLA GIOVENTÙ
Via Cesarea 14 – Area: Center [L-9]
phone: +39.010.5451393 - www.teatrodellagioventu.com
entrance: accessible side entrance in via Macaggi 92 (red)
without signs; phone call required to have the staff operate
the handicap lift.
seats: 3 reserved seats in the first row
toilets: accessible and equipped
TEATRO DELLA TOSSE
Piazza Renato Negri 4 – Area: Old town [F-9]
phone: +39.010.2470793 - www.teatrodellatosse.it
entrance: the Trionfo hall can be reached without assistance.
To enter the Sala Dino Campagna and Agorà you need to call
assistance.
seats: reserved seats at the end of the row near the security exits
toilets: accessible and equipped
98
Theatres
TEATRO DELL’ARCHIVOLTO
TEATRO GUSTAVO MODENA E SALA MERCATO
Piazza Modena 3 – Area: Sampierdarena
phone: +39.010.6592220 - www.archivolto.it
entrance: the ticket office for both halls and the Sala Modena
are accessible and no assistance is required. The entrance to
Sala Mercato has a ramp.
seats: reserved seats in the lateral aisle near the security exits.
The Modena has an induction system installed for people
with hearing aids (subject to letting the staff know before the
show)
toilets: accessible and equipped
TEATRO DUSE
Via Bacigalupo 6 – Area: Centre [I-5]
phone: +39.010.5342200 - www.teatro-di-genova.it
entrance: main entrance is not accessible; a steep path leads
to the second entrance. We advise to call in advance for
assistance.
seats: 2 reserved seats in the back rows
toilets: accessible with assistance of the staff
TEATRO HOP ALTROVE
Piazzetta Cambiaso 1 – Area: Old town [F-5]
phone: +39.010.2511934 - www.hopaltrove.it
entrance: no intercom outside, therefore you need to call by
phone before you arrive to ask for a ramp to be positioned
over the two steps at the entrance
seats: reserved seats in the first and last rows of the seats, or
anywhere else on request
toilets: accessible and equipped; access from the café on the
first level via a stair lift.
99
shops and eating place
INFORMATION ON THE
ACCESSIBILITY OF THE SHOPS
AND EATING PLACE MENTIONED
IN THIS GUIDE
(IN ORDER OF REFERENCE)
Shops and Eating Places
ITINERARY A
Libreria Bozzi
Pasticceria Villa
Gelateria don Paolo
Gelateria Guarino
Le cravatte di Finollo
ITINERARY B
Libreria Porto Antico
ITINERARY C
La Tavola del Doge
Prodotti Liguri
Rivara Tessuti
Steps
num
h. cm
Door
w. cm
3
1
3
1
1
16
10
14,5-16
3
7
115
77
70x2
100
60x2
0
-
110
1
5-15
123
1
17
92
1
1
14
3
72
63
1
1
1
2
1
1
15
18
7
10-17
23
5
90
70x2
82x2
65(+65)
100
85
(entrance in piazza San Lorenzo)
Latteria Buona Fede
Caffè Laiolo
note: outside seating accessible
Focacceria di via Lomellini
Pietro Romanengo Confetteria
Klainguti Confetteria
Viganotti Cioccolato
Musica Gianni Tassio
Farmacia Montini
(entrance in via Gramsci)
100
shops and eating place
Shops and Eating Places
VITA DEI GENOVESI
Armanino Frutta Secca
Carega Antica Friggitoria
Gran Ristoro Panini
Antica Sciamadda
Farinata e Torte
Sâ-a-Pesta Farinata e Torte
Baretto Gallese
Focacceria da Mario
Osteria Guglie
Mannori Ristorante
Panarello Pasticceria
Pollini Abbigliamento
Marina Rinaldi Abbigliamento
Geox Scarpe
Steps
num
h. cm
Door
w. cm
0
1
1
2
8
10
9-11
89
90
80
75
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
12
8
6
3-13
10
2.5-15
0-12
14
13
73
75
105
70
65
80
100
78x2
85
1
14
80
(via XX Settembre 110r)
Geox Scarpe
(via XX Settembre 120)
Max Mara Abbigliamento
Cabib Tappeti
Feltrinelli Libreria
1
1 (ingr)
1 (usc)
2-12
6
12
80
90
85x2
note: an accessible elevator leads to the lower level; intermediate
floor inaccessible. A bell is present at the entrance to call assistance.
Mondadori Libreria
1
0-3.5
115
note: ascensore accessibile, al piano inferiore passaggi stretti.
Fnac Libreria
1
15
83x2
note: accessible elevator, stair lift for the ground- and basement
floor, equipped toilets on the basement floor. Bell outside to call the
staff t o position a ramp.
101
shops and eating place
Shops and Eating Places
Crovetto Tessuti
Pietro Romanengo Confetteria
Upim
Camisasca gomme
Camisasca sport
Pescetto Abbigliamento
Galleria Imperiale Antichità
Klainguti Confetteria
Sorelle Ascoli Abbigliamento
(Piazza Soziglia 94r)
Sorelle Ascoli Abbigliamento
La Bottega dello Stoccafisso
Mentelocale Wine bar
Birreria Moretti
Triskell
Pizzeria di vico dei Biscotti
Fulvio Ristorante
Bar Berto Wine Bar
Steps
num
h. cm
1
5
1
18
1
12
1
11
1
6
1
11
1
14
1
7
1
5
Door
w. cm
80
70x2
80x2
80
90
85
160
82x2
90
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
7
8
12
10
8
11
7
78
85/90
77+77
80
80
90
74+82
75
1
14
140
1
15
140
note: outside seating accessible
Café Latino Wine Bar
note: outside seating accessible
Cremeria delle Erbe
note: bell at the entrance and an external ramp available
Bar Ristorante Marinella
1
8
98
The premises “Sul fronte del porto” are situated on the top floor of
the Palazzina Millo, which can be reached with an accessible elevator.
Brasserie Porto Carlo
Sushi Bar & Restaurant
-
-
90
90
Mezzanotte Cocktail Bar
-
-
90
102
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
AND SERVICES
E via per scogli freschissimi ed aria,
nella tremula Genova, l’antico
legname della barca a fune in aria
nero travalica i ponti – l’intrico
scande d’obliqui deviamenti, e giunge
per terrazze a conoscere l’aperta
trasparenza del giorno.
Giorgio Caproni
Public transport and services
ARRIVING IN GENOA
By Plane
Arriving in Genoa by plane, you will land at the Cristoforo Colombo Airport,
which is situated in the
west end of the city, ca.
6km from the centre.
The airport has accessible toilets, elevators and all pedestrian
areas are barrier-free. For travellers in wheelchairs, the airport
has mobile stair lifts, with which you can board the plane easily.
Airlines that operate in the airport of Genoa are:
Air Alps, Air Dolomiti, AirFrance, AirOne, AirVallee, Alitalia, Belle
Air, British Airways, Condor, Iberia, Lufthansa, Myair and
Ryanair.
Most companies offer special services for disabled travellers,
such as an accompanying person inside the airport or special
fares for the transportation of wheelchairs. To take advantage
of these, we advise you to state your disability and/or special
needs when you book.
Inside the airport is an accessible tourist information.
Parking: there are several reserved parking spaces in the central car park of the airport
Links to public transport: The no.100 bus “Volabus” connects
the airport with the city centre. It is not equipped with mobile
ramps.
Contact the Radio Taxi and request an equipped vehicle on
+39.010.5966 – www.solotaxi.it.
For further information: Airport Cristoforo Colombo +39.010.60151 – www.airport.genova.it
104
Public transport and services
By train
The two principal stations of the city
are ‘Genova Piazza Principe’ and
‘Genova Brignole’.
Principe station is convenient for those
who want to visit the old town, the
area of the Porto Antico and the Aquarium of Genoa, the Galata Museum of the Sea, the Castello d’Albertis, the Cathedral and the Museums in via Garibaldi.
Principe, which is waiting for re-qualification works, has been
found inaccessible for travellers in wheelchairs who want to
move independently. Therefore, you should call the Assistance
Centre for Disabled Travellers (tel. +39.010.2743775) at least 2
hrs before you arrive/depart. The train station consists of several levels that are connected with stair-lifts, which will be operated by the staff on request. The stair-lift links for example to
platform 11, where you can find accessible toilets, a café and a
baggage deposit.
The ticket office is on the left as you enter the station and it is
close to the Assistance Centre for Disabled Travellers, where you
can also receive information. Both offices are accessible and on
street level. The tourist information is situated in the upper
entrance hall and has a step at the entrance.
There are two ‘underground’ platforms– usually for the regional trains running along the Riviera - which are not accessible,
not even with the assistance of the operators.
Parking: there are reserved parking spaces for people with a
valid invalidity card in the car park outside the station, in front
of the taxi rank.
Pedestrian routes: to reach the old town or the Aquarium, we
advise to go straight into via Balbi towards the Porta dei Vacca.
Links to public transport: the Metro station “Principe” can be
reached by taking the street on the right when leaving the
station and then crossing the street after ca. 150 meters at the
first traffic light in via Doria.
105
Public transport and services
Brignole train station is probably the best point for departure
and arrivals for travellers in a wheelchair and is also convenient
for those who want to arrive at the Fiera del Mare, the promenade of Corso Italia, via San Lorenzo and
via XX Settembre.
The station has been found
accessible for wheelchair users. Thanks to
the recent construction of the corridor in
the west-wing of the
station, which has
accessible elevators,
it is now possible to
reach all platforms. Disabled travellers who are planning a
journey are nonetheless advised to contact the Centro Assistenza Disabili (tel. +39.010.2743775) 12 hrs before departure/
arrival to receive assistance when getting on or off the train.
To leave Brignole station, keep the right, where a ramp is positioned over the stairs outside the taxi rank. Next to the entrance of the Office for Travel Assistance (Ufficio Assistenza Passeggeri) is an indicated bell, which will call the staff who can
give you the key to the accessible toilets.
Parking. There are two parking spaces reserved for disabled
travellers outside the station.
Connecting public transport. Connecting public transport: The
bus line 19 runs directly to the Fiera del Mare but it is not equipped. Lines 17/, 39, 40, are equipped with mobile ramps and connect Brignole with De Ferrari square.
(for information on buses: +39.800085311 www.amt.genova.it).
For further information: Trenitalia – Assistance Centre for
Disabled Travellers: +39.010.2743775 or +39 199 303060. www.
trenitalia.com/disabili/hodi.html
106
Public transport and services
By Car
The motorways that connect Genoa with the
national network are the
A12 Genova – Rosignano, A26 Voltri – Gravellona Toce, A10 Genova – Ventimiglia and the A7
Genova – Milano.
The exit Genova Ovest (Genoa East) leads into
the city centre. Once you leave the motorway,
the road continues onto an elevated lane, from
which you can take the exits to the Aquarium, Via XX Settembre and the Fiera del Mare.
The motorway exit Genova Nervi leads to the Parks of Nervi
and the east end of the city of Genoa.
The closest service stations, which have been declared accessible
for disabled people by the Società Autostrade S.p.A. are:
• in direction Genoa:
Sant’Ilario Nord on the A12 between Recco and Genova Nervi
Piani D’Invrea Sud on the A10 between Varazze and Arenzano
Turchino Ovest on the A26 between Masone and the link to
the A10
Giovi Ovest on the A7 between Isola del Cantone and Ronco
Scrivia
• leaving Genova:
Sant’Ilario Sud the A12 between Genova Nervi and Recco
Piani D’Invrea Nord on the A10 between Arenzano and
Varazze
Turchino Est on the A26 between the link to the A10 and
Masone
Giovi Ovest on the A7 between Ronco Scrivia and Isola del
Cantone
For further information: Infoviaggio: tel +39.892525;
motorway information in English: +39.06.43632121 –
www.autostrade.it
107
Public transport and services
Ships and Ferries
Ferries arrive at and depart from Genoa to the following destinations:
Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia, Morocco, Spain and Corsica.
The new Terminal Traghetti (Ferry Terminal) is ca. 1km west
of the city centre. It can be reached by bus (line 19 and 30 not
equipped) or by Metro (station ‘Di Negro’), by car and by taxi.
Inside the terminal, which was opened in 1999, there are
shops, supermarkets, accessible toilets and elevators that connect the three floors.
The entire structure is accessible for wheelchair users.
The ferries of the different companies generally have specially
equipped and accessible cabins, which can be requested
when booking.
The cruise ships depart from the Stazione Marittima of Ponte dei Mille and Ponte Andrea Doria quays. Within the next
years, the Terminal Crociere di Ponte
Parodi will be built as part of the city’s
upgrading projects.
Further information and assistance: +39.010.2412534 –
www.smge.it
108
Public transport and services
MOVING IN GENOA
Car parks
The owners of a valid Invalidity Pass (art. 12 DPR 503/96) can
park for free in the city car parks, even if they do not use a space that is reserved for people with disabilities. However, you
need to ensure that the car park does not function exclusively
with an automatic payment till or that you leave your car at
times when the car park personnel are not present.
The following list comprises open and covered car parks in the
city centre:
• Park Acquario: : 780 open spaces, open 24hrs – Info:
+39.010.2345231;
• Magazzini del Cotone: Area of the Aquarium – 676
covered spaces – open from 8.00 to 2.00 – Info:
+39.010.2485728;
• Autopark Piccapietra: Area De Ferrari – 500 covered
spaces – open 24 hrs – Info: +39.010.564244;
• City Park: Area De Ferrari – 270 covered spaces – Sunday to Wednesday: 7.00-0.30, Thursday: 7.30-1.30, Friday
and Saturday: 7.30-3.30. Info: +39.010.561509;
• Park Vittoria: Area Brignole – 1100 covered spaces –
open from 7.00 – 23.00 – Info: +39.010.5954132;
• Lambruschini: Area Brignole – 550 covered spaces –
open from 7.30 – 23.00 – Info: +39.010.5531625;
• Parcheggio Carignano: 100 covered spaces – open 24
hrs – with payment – Infp: +39.010.5704375;
• Parking of the Train station Genova-Nervi: Area Nervi – 130 covered spaces – open from 7.00 to 21.00 – Info:
Bar/Buffet of the station Nervi.
For further information: The surface car parks are administrated by Genova Parcheggi – tel. +39.010.5707186 – www.gepark.
com
109
Public transport and services
Bus
The AMT (Agency for Public Transport of
Genoa) currently has 937 busses, of which
438 vehicles are equipped with lowered
floors and 83 with a mobile ramp.
The city bus lines with a mobile footboard
for wheelchairs are:
- Bus line 17, which links via Brigata Liguria (near the big car park
of Piazza della Vittoria) with the east end of the city until Nervi.
- Bus line 19, which links the Fiera del Mare with Brignole train
station, Via Gramsci, and the Galata Museum of the Sea.
Lines 17/, 39, 40, are equipped with mobile ramps and connect
Brignole with De Ferrari square
Currently there is no information on the exact times or the frequency of the equipped vehicles in the urban bus net.
For further information: tel. +39.800085311 – www.amt.
genova.it
Public elevators and cable railways
Genoa, being one of the steepest cities in the world, has a
network of elevators and cable
railways run by the AMT.
The following have been found
accessible for people in wheelchairs who want to move independently:
• The cable railway of S. Anna,
connects the central Piazza
Portello with via Bertani and
thereby with the ring-road on
the hill. It has two carriages,
each with a capacity to fit 30
people. Open every day from
7.00 until 00.30.
110
Funicolare di Sant’Anna
Public transport and services
• the public elevator of Castelletto connects Piazza Portello to Spianata Castelletto, from where one can admire one of the most beautiful panoramas of Genoa. It has
two cabins, each with a capacity to fit 25 people. Open
every day from 6.40 – 24.00;
• the public elevator of Castelletto Ponente connects
the Galleria Garibaldi with Via G. Colombo, an adjacent
street to the Belvedere di Castelletto. It has two cabins,
each with a capacity to fit 27 people;
• the public elevator of Castello d’Albertis – Montegalletto connects Via Balbi with Corso Dogali with a vertical and horizontal cable railway system. Open from
Monday to Saturday from 6.45 to 21.00, Sundays and on
bank holidays from 8.00 to 21.00.
Thanks to the completion of a new, barrier-free pedestrian
crossing in Corso Dogali, people in a wheelchair can now
arrive at and reach the public elevator ‘Montegalletto’, which
leads to the Museum Castello D’Albertis. This route is also
accessible using an electric four-wheel scooter from Terre di
Mare (tel. +39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it).
For further information:
+39.010.800085311 – www.amt.genova.it
Taxi
You can call an equipped vehicle, which is fitted to transport
passengers in a wheelchair. The vehicles are air-conditioned
and can accommodate up to 5 passengers plus one passenger
with a wheelchair. Available 24 hrs.
For information:
Radiotaxi Genova
tel. +39.010.5966
www.solotaxi.it
111
Public transport and services
Metropolitana - Genoa’s underground
Currently the Metro has seven stops.
Brin >Di Negro >Principe >Darsena >San Giorgio >Sarzano >De Ferrari
To use the Metro, the personnel of the Metro station need to
be called by intercom to assist travellers in a wheelchair to
get on and off the train by providing a mobile ramp to
overcome the gap and difference in height between the train
and the platform.
In all station of the Metro tactile routes have been laid for
blind passenger, which lead
from the entrance to the
elevator, the platforms and
the trains. However, there are
no indications in Braille on the
button-panel in the elevators.
For further information:
tel. +39.800085311
www.amt.genova.it
112
Public transport and services
MOBILITY SERVICE
This is a service managed by Terre di Mare,
the information-point of the Province of Genoa for tourism without
barriers, which rents out electric
four-wheel scooters to people
with mobility difficulties, with
which they can visit the Old
Town, the Porto Antico and all
accessible points of interest
in Genoa comfortably (such
as the Aquarium, the Galata
Museum, Palazzo Ducale,
the Museums in via Garibaldi, the Castello d’Albertis or the
Lighthouse Museum).
The scooters can be hired out directly in the office of Terre
di Mare at the Palazzo Ducale (115). On request, the scooters
can also be brought to the train stations Principe and Brignole, the Aquarium of Genoa and the main car parks in the
city centre (for this however, it is required that you are already familiar with the controls and procedures).
The service ‘Terre di Mare’ of the Province of Genoa is administrated by the Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna (www.lacruna.
com)
For further information:
Terre di Mare
Piazza Matteotti 72r (Palazzo Ducale)
tel. +39.010.542098 - +39.339.1309249
www.terredimare.it
113
Public transport and services
INFORMATION AND USEFUL NUMBERS
USEFUL NUMBERS
Calling from abroad dial +39
before all the following phone numbers
Carabinieri 112
Police 113
Firebrigade 115
Ambulance 118
Medical Advice 010 354002
Local Police 010 5570
Car Breakdown Service 803116
Lost Property Office 010 500519
Radio Taxi 010 5966
24-hour Pharmacies
Ghersi, corso Buenos Aires 18 – 010 530821
Pescetto, via Balbi 185 – 010 261609
Europa, corso Europa 676 – 010 380239
Tourist Information
Principe Train Station 010 2462633
Colombo Airport 010 6015247
Porto Antico 010 2485710
GenovaInforma 010 8687452
Terre di Mare 010 542098
ACCESSIBLE TOILETS
Autopulente Via Fiume – area Brignole (M9)
c/o Terre di Mare Office – Palazzo Ducale (G7)
c/o Centro Piazza Ragazzi - Old Town (F7)
Shopping Mall of the Aquarium – Area Porto Antico (D6)
Mandraccio – Area Porto Antico (E7)
114
CREDITS
we would like to thank the following people for their collaboration on
this guide:
the writer Maurizio Maggiani for his extraordinary style, which has captured the charm of Genoa.
the journalist Donata Bonometti for editing the texts of the itineraries
and the passion, with which she has worked towards the completion of
this guide.
Anna Kaarow for the enthusiasm and commitment in translating and
Joshua Robinson for his dedication in proofreading
Amanzio Pezzolo, former Vice Consoler CULMV of the Port of Genoa, for
his “Memories of the Port”.
Marino Lagomarsino, violinist at the Carlo Felice Theatre, for his fine summary of “Niccolò Paganini”
Genoa Airport, AMI, AMT, the Port Authority, the Direction of the Museums of the City of Genoa, the Fiera di Genoa, the Palazzo del Principe, the
Stazioni Marittime S.p.A, Trenitalia and Studio Stefano Fera for the information and images
Ansaldo Trasporti Sistemi Ferroviari for the concession of the itineraries’
graphic map and the Metro map, produced on their account by Corigraf
di Genova
Apt Genova, M&R Comunications and the Assosciation of “Articolo 4” –
Mac Art by Riccardo Navone for the concession to use the geographical
map of the city
Sonia Pelloni and Milena Bozzo of the G.I.L Asl 3 “Genovese” for sharing
their experience acquired through Gira Genova
Stefania Pasa and Andrea Stefan, for their suggestions and their willingness to help
The owners of mentioned premises, who have helped this project by stating the accessibility of their structures.
Quotations:
Page 9 and 67
Richard Wagner ‘Dalle Lettere’ (1853) and Paul Valéry ‘Au hasard et au
rayon (1910), (translated by Giuseppe Mercenaro) in Giuseppe
Mercenaro ‘Viaggiatori stranieri in Liguria’. De Ferrari, Genoa 1990.
Page 39
from the passage “Creuza da mä” in Fabrizio Di André, ‘Creuza de mä’,
Ricordi, 1984;
Page 57
by Dino Campana, Canti orfici e altre poesie, Einaudi, Torino 2003
Page 121
by Giorgio Caproni, Genova di tutta la vita, San Marco dei Giustiniani,
Genova 1997;
Photography credits:
Coop. Sociale La Cruna: cover, p.16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 31, 34, 36,
38, 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 61, 64, 65, 66, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 82,
83, 85, 87, 88, 89, 91, 124, 126, 129, 130, 131, 137; Centrovideo del Comune di Genova: p. 5, 7, 13,14, 15, 18, 26, 32, 33, 34, 37, 40, 50, 52, 53, 56, 59,
60, 62, 71, 72, 79, 81, 86, 90; Apt Genova: p. 28, 44, 58; Genova 2004: p.
54, 55, 63, 69, 80, 92; Museo Muvita: p. 51; Confetteria Romanengo: p.
37.
Greatest care and attention have been paid in compiling this guide, in
order to guarantee the reliability and accuracy of the information
given. However, it can be assumed that in the course of time changes
of addresses, phone numbers and conditions of accessibility of the itineraries and structures are possible. No warranty is therefore offered
and we do not take responsibility for any damage or inconvenience
caused as a consequence of the information contained in this guide.
�� ���
�
�
���
��
���
�
���
��� ���
����
� � � � � ��
�������
� � � �� � �
��������������
���
�������
�� � � �
��� �����
���
������ ��� ������
FEGIN
��� ���������
BORZO
�
��� �� ��������
��� �����
��� �������
�
BOLZANET
��� ��
�
������
� ������������
� ��������
���
���������
���������
���
�
��� ���������
� � � � � ��
�
��� ��� ��� ����
���
�
��
��
�
��������
� � ���������
��
������ �
�
��� � �� ���������� ��
��������
�� �
�����
��
��
��
��� �
�� �
����
�
���
�����
��
����
������
�����������
�����
�������
���
����������������
��� �
��
�����������
����
���������
����
����
����
������
�������
��������
��
��
� ��
���
� � � � ��
���� �����
�
PONTE
DECIM
����
����������
�������������������
��
��
�
��
��
�
����
��
����
���
��
��
��
��
�
��
�����
�
�������
������
����
�����
������
���������
���������������
��
����������
������
� � ����
���������
����������
���
��� ���������
��
�� �
�
�
���
���
��
��
�����
���������
�����
����
��������
���
���������
��������
�����
��������� �������
�������
���
���������
������
��
��������
����������
������
�����
���������
�������
�����
�������
������������
�������
���
��
��
��
���������
������
�����
���������
��� �������
��� ������
��������
Proprietà esclusiva della cartografia Apt Genova – M&R comunicazione
����
����� ������
�
���
����
���
��
��� ������
Three exciting itineraries, guiding
tourists through the barrier-free routes
of Genoa, whilst providing information
on points of interest and walks that
allow to discover this city through the
eyes of those who live it every day.
Detailed profiles on the accessibility of
the city’s points of interest provide all
the necessary information and
measurements of museums, theatres,
hotels, restaurants and commercial
businesses, which have been verified
on site.
Other than promoting accessible tourist
attractions of Genoa, La Cruna aims to
promote good praxis in the field of
accessibility, which has already been
illustrated in the informative leaflet
“Guide for accessible planning”.
Genova per tutti noi
Consulta
Handicap
with the contribution of:
Provincia di Genova
Free Edition. Not for sale.
in collaboration with:

english for all- lingua inglese

BENETEAU FIRST 40.7

BABY ON BYPASS 2014

MuPris: museum of sarcophagi at the catacombs of Priscilla

A comparison of inpatient admissions in 2012 from two European

programma - Nuovo Rinascimento

amiex - Ministero per i Beni e le Attività Culturali

Here

The District of Imola

CG 2014 - Dublino Mount Temple VS