ask a master gardener: staking a newly planted tree

ASK A MASTER GARDENER:
STAKING A NEWLY PLANTED TREE
By Elaine Applebaum, Placer County Master Gardener
From The Curious Gardener, Winter 2010
Q: I just planted a new tree and want to know the best way to stake it.
A: It’s important to know that not all newly planted trees need to be staked. In fact, improper staking can harm
rather than help. The more freely a tree can move, the stronger its trunk will become and the more likely it will be to
withstand storms.
There are three situations in which staking is necessary: to protect against damage from equipment, vehicles or
animals; to anchor trees whose roots cannot support the tree upright in the wind; and to support trunks unable to
stand upright by themselves.
Protective stakes only need to be tall enough to be seen and avoided by equipment operators. Three stakes are
generally enough and they should not be attached to the tree. Netting or wire fencing can be attached to the stakes
to exclude animals.
Anchor stakes should be firmly set in the surrounding soil outside the root ball. Short stakes used for protection can
do double duty as anchoring stakes by attaching the lower part of the tree to them with broad, flexible ties. The idea
is to restrict root ball movement, while allowing the top of the tree to move in the wind.
Trees trained properly at the nursery should not need support staking. Most reputable tree growers no longer
remove lower branches to create top-heavy, “lollipop” trees. They know that leaving these “nurse branches” on the
young tree will help it develop a thicker trunk with healthy taper.
To determine if your newly purchased tree requires support staking, remove the stake that came with the tree from
the nursery. If the tree stands upright on its own, you should not stake it.
However if the trunk flops over, place two stakes in the ground outside the root ball on opposite sides of the tree so
that prevailing winds will blow through the stakes. Starting about 2 feet above the ground, use two fingers, one on
either side, to support the trunk. Move your fingers slowly up the trunk until the tree stands upright. Flexible ties that
allow movement should go 6 inches above this point. Cut the stakes 2 to 3 inches above the ties so that the trunk
and upper branches will not be damaged by blowing into or rubbing on the stakes. Check the ties regularly to make
sure they are not constricting the trunk.
Remove stakes and ties as soon as they are no longer needed.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION
PLACER COUNTY
11477 E Avenue
Auburn, CA 95603
(530) 889-7385
E-Mail: [email protected]
The University of California, in accordance with applicable Federal and State law and University
policy, does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, religion, sex, disability,
age, medical condition (cancer-related), ancestry, marital status, citizenship, sexual orientation,
or status as a Vietnam-era veteran or special disabled veteran. Inquiries regarding the
University’s nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action Director,
University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 1111 Franklin, 6th Floor, Oakland,
California 94607-5200. (510) 987-0096. United States Department of Agriculture, University of
California, Placer & Nevada Counties cooperating.
NEVADA COUNTY
255 So Auburn
Grass Valley, CA 95945
(530) 273-4563
E-Mail: [email protected]
Placer County Hotline: (530) 889-7388. Visit us online at http://pcmg.ucanr.org