cosmetics Article Photothermal Radiometry for Skin Research Perry Xiao School of Engineering, London South Bank University, 103 Borough Road, London SE1 0AA, UK; [email protected]; Tel.: +44-207-815-7569; Fax: +44-207-815-7699 Academic Editor: Enzo Berardesca Received: 3 December 2015; Accepted: 17 February 2016; Published: 29 February 2016 Abstract: Photothermal radiometry is an infrared remote sensing technique that has been used for skin and skin appendages research, in the areas of skin hydration, hydration gradient, skin hydration depth profiling, skin thickness measurements, skin pigmentation measurements, effect of topically applied substances, transdermal drug delivery, moisture content of bio-materials, membrane permeation, and nail and hair measurements. Compared with other technologies, photothermal radiometry has the advantages of non-contact, non-destructive, quick to make a measurement (a few seconds), and being spectroscopic in nature. It is also colour blind, and can work on any arbitrary sample surfaces. It has a unique depth profiling capability on a sample surface (typically the top 20 µm), which makes it particularly suitable for skin measurements. In this paper, we present a review of the photothermal radiometry work carried out in our research group. We will first introduce the theoretical background, then illustrate its applications with experimental results. Keywords: photothermal radiometry; skin hydration; skin hydration depth profiling; trans-dermal drug delivery; hair and nail 1. Introduction Photothermal radiometry (PTR), or opto-thermal radiometry (OTR), is an infrared remote sensing technique that was independently developed by Tam et al. [1] and Imhof et al. [2] back in the 1980s. It has since been used for biomedical applications [3–5] and for industrial non-destructive testing (NDT) [6,7]. Photothermal radiometry uses a modulated (sinusoidal or pulsed) light source (i.e., laser, etc.) to heat up the sample surface, and uses a fast infrared detector (e.g., Mercury Cadmium Telluride or MCT) to pick up the sample’s corresponding blackbody radiation due to the temperature increase. By analyzing the shape of the signal, we can get information on sample’s optical properties, thermal properties, the thickness of the sample, and its layer structure. The pulsed laser version—Opto-Thermal Transient Emission Radiometry (OTTER)—developed initially by Imhof et al. [2,8,9], and consequently by Xiao et al. [9–19], has been intensively used for skin and skin appendage measurements. 2. Theoretical Background When an incident light beam reaches the skin’s surface, a small fraction of the light will be reflected due to the change in refractive index between air (nair = 1.0) and stratum corneum (nsc = 1.55). The rest of the light will pass through the surface and go into the skin, undergoing a process of multiple scattering and absorption [20]. Absorbed light energy is converted to heat, which increases the temperature of the skin. Scattered light contributes to a diffuse distribution of light within the skin. Scattering and absorption determine the light penetration depth and light distribution within the skin. The degree of scattering and absorption depends on the wavelength of the incident light and the optical properties of the skin, which can be described by its absorption coefficient, scattering coefficient, and the anisotropy. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10; doi:10.3390/cosmetics3010010 www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 2 of 14 Some of the light travelling in the skin will also be reflected at the interfaces of the skin layers and blood vessels. Some of this reflected and back scattered light can travel through the skin and finally go back into the air. This is called the remitted light. The remittance from epidermis and dermis, together with the regular reflectance from the skin surface form the total remittance of the incident radiation, which give the colour of the skin. The measurement of this remittance can give information on erythema, blanching, melanin, glucose level, oxygen level, haemoglobin, blood flow, and skin structure. These light–tissue interactions can normally be divided into three domains: absorption domain, scattering domain, and equal scattering and absorption domain. Absorption domain is where absorption events occur more rapidly than effective scattering events. This is true for some UV (193, 248, 308 nm of ArK, KrF, XeCl excimer lasers) and the IR (2.94 µm Er:YAG, 10.6 µm CO2 lasers) wavelengths, where tissue absorption can be substantially larger than scattering. Scattering domain is where multiple scattering events occur before an absorption event occurs. This is true for wavelengths between 600 and 1300 nm, where haemoglobin and melanin pigments do not absorb strongly [21]. The band between 600 and 1300 nm is often called the “therapeutic window”, which offers the possibility of treating large volumes with certain long-wavelength photosensitizers. Equal scattering and absorption domain is where both absorption and scattering are substantial, and light in the skin has a strongly collimated component surrounded by a region where light is multiply scattered. This is true for wavelengths between 450 and 590 nm, which include the argon laser and Nd:YAG laser wavelengths, the penetration depth is approximately 0.5 to 2.5 mm [22]. OTTER technology mainly works in the absorption domain when 2.94 µm Er:YAG laser is used and in the equal scattering and absorption domain when Nd:YAG laser (532 nm) or OPO (optical parametric oscillator) laser (420–590 nm) is used. OTTER is only sensitive to absorbed light, due to the MCT infrared detector used. The reflected light, scattered light, and remitted light make no contribution to the OTTER signal. After the laser pulse, the absorbed laser light energy will decay exponentially into deeper skin according to the Beer-Lambert law, and the corresponding temperature changes inside skin can be described as: E0 α ´αz e (1) θpz, 0q “ ρC where θpz, 0q is the temperature at time t = 0 of the skin at position z, with z = 0 at the surface and increasing toward the inside of the skin. α is the absorbance for the excitation laser, C the specific heat, ρ the density, and E0 the energy density absorbed from the excitation laser. This initial temperature will then re-distribute following the diffusion law, which, in general, can be expressed as: „ ˙ $ ˆ B B B ’ ’ D ˆ ´ θpz, tq “ 0 ’ ’ Bz Bt & Bz Initial Condition : ’ ’ ’ ’ % Boundary Condition : θpz, tq| t“0 ˇ“ θpz, 0q Bθpz, tq ˇˇ ´k z “0 “ 0 Bz ˇ (2) where D is the thermal diffusivity of the skin, and k is thermal conductivity of the skin. In skin measurements, we are mainly interested in optical properties, as thermal properties do not change very much. Therefore, it is safe to assume that the skin is thermally homogeneous; then, Equation (2) can be solved by using Green’s function method, to yield a time-dependent transient temperature field as [10]: $ , 1 1 ’ / 2 2 & α Dt ´ αz α Dt ` αz . E0 α α2 Dt 2 q ` eαz er f cp ? 2 q θpz, tq “ e e´αz er f cp ? (3) ’ / 2Cρ α2 Dt α2 Dt % - ( z, t ) e Dt ez erfc( 2C 0 2 Dt 2 ) ez erfc( 2 Dt 2 ) Cosmeticserfc 2016,( 3, x 10 ) 1 erf ( x ) is the complementary error function and erf ( x ) where (3) 2 x 0 e y2 3d ofy14 is the error function. 2 şx 2 where f cpxq “ 1 ´ er f pxq is thesignal complementary function and temperature er f pxq “ ? 0(ez´, ty) dy the canis be Theer corresponding OTTER generated error by this transient π calculated by: error function. The corresponding OTTER signal generated by this transient temperature θpz, tqcan be calculated by: E S (t ) ζ E00β ż 8e z ( z , t )dz (4) Sptq “ C 0 e´βz θpz, tqdz (4) ρC 0 where β is the skin’s absorption coefficient for the emitted thermal radiation, and the parameter where is the skin’s absorption coefficient for the emitted thermal radiation, and the parameter ζ “ ζpλem qincludes factors that depend on the black body emission curve, detector sensitivity, focusing and alignment, ( em ) includes that depend on the black body emission detector sensitivity, but isfactors independent of the properties of the sample per se curve, [2,8–10]. focusing and1alignment, is independent properties of the sample perNd:YAG se [2,8–10]. Figure shows the but schematic diagram of forthe OTTER measurements. When laser (532 nm, showsor the schematic diagramnm, for 10 OTTER measurements. When Nd:YAG laser (532 nm, 10 nsFigure pulse1width) OPO laser (420–590 ns pulse width) is used as the excitation heat source, 10 nsFigure pulse width) OPO laser (420–590 nm, ns pulse width) is used asdeep the excitation see 1b, the or laser is mainly absorbed by10 melanin and haemoglobin inside theheat skin.source, In this see Figure 1b,measuring the laser isthe mainly absorbed and by melanin andthickness haemoglobin deep insidesignal the skin. In this case, we are skin pigments epidermis [10–14]. OTTER is typically case, we arethermal measuring the skin pigments and epidermis thickness OTTER a delayed wave signal, and Equation (4) can be solved and[10–14]. expressed as: signal is typically a delayed thermal wave signal, and Equation (4) can be solved and expressed as: τ2 t c ´ t e t2 t e Sptq “ A1t e1τ1 er f c t (5) ` A2 c S (t ) A1e erfc τ1 A2 t (5) 1 τt 2 2 1 L2 2 where A the τ2 “ Equation (5) (5) to fit and AA are thesignal signalamplitudes amplitudesτ11“ 12 2 and and . Using Equation to the fit where A11 and 2 L . Using 2 2are 4D 4 D α DD signal we can get the melanin and haemoglobin absorption (α) and epidermis thickness (L). the signal we can get the melanin and haemoglobin absorption ( ) and epidermis thickness (L). Figure 1.1. The Theschematic schematicdiagram diagramfor forOTTER OTTERhydration hydrationmeasurements measurements(a) (a)and and skin skin pigments pigments Figure measurements(b). (b). measurements When the Er:YAG laser (2.94 µm wavelength, 100 ns pulse width, a few mille joules per pulse) is used as the heat source, see Figure 1a, the laser is absorbed at the skin surface, by the water in the skin, and the measurements are confined within stratum corneum, the outmost skin layer (~20 µm in thickness). In this case, OTTER signal is typically a decay signal, and depending on the detection wavelength, the OTTER signals can either reflect the water concentration information in skin (13.1 µm), or solvent concentration information within skin (9.5 µm). By applying different mathematical models, we can get the average water content in stratum corneum [10], the water concentration gradient Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 4 of 14 in stratum corneum [10,15], and water concentration depth profiles or solvent concentration depth profiles in stratum corneum [16]. 2.1. Homogeneous Model If we assume the skin is optically homogeneous, and under the excitation saturation condition, i.e., α ąą β, (this is true when an Er:YAG laser is used), then Equation (4) can be solved and expressed as [1,8–10]: c t t τ Sptq “ Ae er f c (6) τ 1 is the signal decay lifetime. By fitting Equation (6) to β D OTTER signals we can the best-fit value for τ, which can then be related to average water or solvent concentration in the skin, depending on the detection wavelengths used. where A is the amplitude of the signal, τ “ 2 2.2. Gradient Model If we assume the skin is optically non-homogeneous, but has a linear gradient distribution, e.g.: βpzq “ β0 ` wz (7) where β0 is the absorption coefficient of the surface of the skin, and w is the gradient of the absorption coefficient. Then, Equation (4) can be solved and expressed as [10,15]: ? 2W tτ ˚ ?πp2Wt ` 1q ` ˚ ˚ t{τ a Sptq “ A ˆ ˚ ˚ t{τ 1 2t{τ ` 1 ˝ b ? q e er f cp 3 2Wt ` 1 p2Wt ` 1q ¨ ˛ ‹ ‹ ‹ ‹ ‹ ‚ (8) 1 is the signal decay lifetime. By fitting Equation (8) β0 2 D to OTTER signals we can get information on τ and W, which can then be related to the skin surface water (or solvent) concentration, and the water (or solvent) concentration gradient within the skin [10,15]. where W = wD is the effective gradient and τ “ 2.3. Non-Homogeneous Model If we assume that skin is optically irregularly non-homogeneous, then Equation (4) will be difficult to solve. However, we can resolve this non-homogeneous issue using our Segmented Least-Squares (SLS) fitting technique [16]. Our previous study shows that, for an OTTER decay signal, at different times after the laser excitation, on average, the signal comes from different depths, which we call the “mean detection depth”, Zptq. It can be calculated as [9]: ş8 Zptq “ 0 βe´βz ¨ z ¨ θpz, tqdz ş8 ´βz θpz, tqdz 0 βe (9) where θpz, tq is the transient temperature field. Again, under the excitation saturation condition (α ąą β), we have: c t t 2 τ τ Zptq “ ? ˆ (10) c ´2ˆ β t π t βe τ er f c τ ( z , t ) is the transient temperature field. Again, under the excitation saturation condition ( ), we have: where Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 t 2 Z (t ) t e erfc t t 2 5(10) of 14 where theaverage averagevalue valueofofβ,β,calculated calculatedby byusing usingEquation Equation(6) (6) to to fit fit the the whole whole time-span time-span of of the the where βisisthe signal. Figure 2 shows a typical relationship between the OTTER signal S(t) and its corresponding mean signal. Figure 2 shows a typical relationship between the OTTER signal S(t) and its corresponding detection depth Zptq forZ (at )semi-infinite homogenous sample. Thus, in the case of surface dominant for a semi-infinite homogenous sample. Thus, in the case of surface mean detection depth absorption, the initial signal data points give information about the surface of the sample, and later dominant absorption, the initial signal data points give information about the surface of the sample, signal data points give information about deeper parts of the sample. In other cases, it depends on the and later signal data points give information about deeper parts of the sample. In other cases, it sample’s actual transient temperature θpz, tq and emission absorption coefficient β. depends on the sample’s actual transient temperature ( z, t ) and emission absorption coefficient β. Figure 2. The OTTER OTTER signal signal and its average radiation depth, left Y axis is the normalized 2. The normalized signal intensity, intensity, right right Y Y axis axis is is the the mean mean detection detection depth, depth, and andXX axis axis isis normalized normalizedtime time[10]. [10]. Our Segmented Segmented Least-Squares analysis technique technique is based on on the the Our Least-Squares (SLS) (SLS) fitting fitting data data analysis is based above-mentioned principles [16]. First, we divide the signal data points into a series of small pieces. above-mentioned principles [16]. First, we divide the signal data points into a series of small pieces. Second, we use aa least-squares least-squares fitting routine to to fit fit each each piece piece separately separately to to Equation Equation (6), get the the Second, we use fitting routine (6), to to get best-fit value valueofofthe thedecay decay lifetime for that Finally, we relate each piece’s its mean that to radiation best-fit lifetime τ for piece.piece. Finally, we relate each piece’s τ to its mean radiation depth using Equation (10), to create a depth-resolved profile, which can then be depth using Equation (10), to create a depth-resolved τ profile, which can then be related to therelated water to the waterconcentration (or solvent) concentration depth profiles (or solvent) depth profiles within skin. within skin. 3. OTTER OTTERApplications Applications 3.1. Skin Pigment Measurements In this case, a Nd:YAG laser (532 nm) or OPO laser (420–590 nm) is used as the heat source in the measurements, and the measurement signal is typically a delayed thermal wave. Figure 3 shows the typical signals of skin pigment measurements [10]. The hump in the signal, immediately after the initial decay, is due to the heat diffusion from deep inside the skin to skin surface. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 6 of 14 In this case, a Nd:YAG laser (532 nm) or OPO laser (420–590 nm) is used as the heat source in the measurements, and the measurement signal is typically a delayed thermal wave. Figure 3 shows Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 6 of 14 the typical signals of skin pigment measurements [10]. The hump in the signal, immediately after the initial decay, is due to the heat diffusion from deep inside the skin to skin surface. Figure 3. The OTTER signals of different types of skin (a); different position on forearm (b); hot water effect (c); (c); and and bruised bruised skin skin (d) (d) [10]. [10]. effect Figure 3a 3a shows shows the the signals signals from from different different types types of of skin; skin; changes changes in in signals signals are are due due to to melanin melanin Figure differences. Figure different positions positions of of the the volar volar forearm, forearm, changes changes in in differences. Figure 3b 3b shows shows the the signals signals from from different signals are due to epidermis thicknesses changes. Figure 3c shows the signals before and after signals are due to epidermis thicknesses changes. Figure 3c shows the signals before and after forearm forearm was by washed by hot water, in changes signals due to haemoglogbin blood was washed hot water, changes signalsinare due toare haemoglogbin changes, changes, i.e., bloodi.e., flows to flows to surface. Figure 3d shows the signals of normal skin and bruised skin (sport injury, caused surface. Figure 3d shows the signals of normal skin and bruised skin (sport injury, caused by a bump, by a bump, blood leaksunder into tissues the skin causes the black-and-blue colour), where blood where leaks into tissues the skinunder and causes the and black-and-blue colour), again, changes again, changes in signals are due to blood flowing to skin surface. By fitting the Figure 3 signals in signals are due to blood flowing to skin surface. By fitting the Figure 3 signals using Equation (5), using (5), we about can getthe information about thehaemoglobin mean melanin and haemoglobin concentration we canEquation get information mean melanin and concentration and mean epidermis and meanBy epidermis By analysis applyingtechniques, to the inverse analysis techniques, such as singular thickness. applying thickness. to the inverse such as singular value decomposition (SVD), value decomposition (SVD), Conjugate Gradient (CG), Maximum Entropy Method (MEM), etc., we Conjugate Gradient (CG), Maximum Entropy Method (MEM), etc., we can get more information about can get more information about the skin pigments’ (melanin and haemoglobin) depth profiles the skin pigments’ (melanin and haemoglobin) depth profiles [12,13]. By using different wavelengths with the OPO laser, we can also differentiate melanin from haemoglobin [14,15]. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 7 of 14 [12,13]. By using different wavelengths with the OPO laser, we can also differentiate melanin from haemoglobin Cosmetics 2016, 3, [14,15]. 10 7 of 14 3.2. Skin Water Content Measurements 3.2. Skin Water Content Measurements In this case, an Er:YAG laser (2.94 µm) is used as the heat source in the measurements, and the In this case, an Er:YAG (2.94measurement µm) is used as the heat source aindecay the measurements, the detection wavelength is 13.1 laser µm. The signal is typically curve. Figure 4and shows detection 13.1 µm.skin Thesite measurement signal is typically decay curve. Figure shows the typicalwavelength signals of is different (a) and corresponding watera concentration depth 4profiles the typical of different skin site(b). (a) The and results corresponding water concentration profiles within skin signals using SLS fitting technique show that forehead, face, anddepth forearm have within skin water using SLS fitting (b). The results showhave thatthe forehead, forearm the highest content andtechnique high gradient. Nail and hair lowest face, waterand content andhave low the highestThe water content and high gradient. Naildepth and hair have is thelikely lowest water content and hair low gradient. curved feature of hair hydration profile due to the layered gradient. The curved feature of hair hydration depth profile is likely due to the layered hair structure. structure. OTTER Signals 1 35 0.8 30 0.6 25 0.4 15 0 10 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 Time [ms] (a) 3 3.5 4 4.5 Forehead Face Arm Hand Finger Nail Hair 20 0.2 -0.2 Hydration Depth Profiles 40 Hydration [%] Intensity [a.u.] 1.2 5 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 Depth [um] (b) Figure 4. The the Figure 4. The typical typical OTTER OTTER signals signals of of different different skin skin sites, sites, including including hair hair and and nail nail (a), (a), and and the corresponding water concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique (b). corresponding water concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique (b). By scanning along the surface of volar forearm, we can also produce a 3D water concentration By scanning along the surface of volar forearm, we can also produce a 3D water concentration depth profile within skin, see Figure 5. The result shows that water distribution on the surface is depth profile within skin, see Figure 5. The result shows that water distribution on the surface is relatively uniform, but the depth profiles are quite different along the arm from wrist to elbow. relatively uniform, but the depth profiles are quite different along the arm from wrist to elbow. Across Across the arm, near the wrist, water distributions are also different from one side to another. This the arm, near the wrist, water distributions are also different from one side to another. This is likely to is likely to reflect the stratum corneum thickness changes at different positions of the arm. reflect the stratum corneum thickness changes at different positions of the arm. Cosmetics Cosmetics 2016, 2016, 3, 3, 10 10 88of of14 14 Figure The 3D 3D water water concentration concentration depth depth profiles profiles along along the the volar volar forearm. forearm. Figure 5. 5.The 3.3. Solvent Penetration Measurements By selecting detection wavelength at 9.5 µm, µm, where water has relatively low absorption and chemical solvents have relatively high absorption, we can also measure the solvent solvent penetration penetration through the skin [16,17,23,24]. Figure Figure 66 shows shows the OTTER results of Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) penetration a small amount of undiluted DMSO solvent (~0.1(~0.1 mL) penetration through throughskin. skin.InInthis thismeasurement, measurement, a small amount of undiluted DMSO solvent is applied on a test for site 5 min. theAfter skin surface wiped dry, tape stripping performed, mL) is applied on skin a testsite skin for After 5 min. the skinissurface is wiped dry, tapeisstripping is in order to see how deepand thehow DMSO penetrates. OTTER measurements are performed, performed, in how ordermuch to seeand how much deep the DMSO penetrates. OTTER measurements both before andboth after before the DMSO solvent and application, after each tape stripping, with a total of 10 are performed, and after theapplication, DMSO solvent and after each tape stripping, tape Figure 6 shows the Figure OTTER6signals the corresponding DMSO concentration with strips a totalapplied. of 10 tape strips applied. shows(a), theand OTTER signals (a), and the corresponding depth using SLS fitting technique at different tape stripping (b). The results show(b). a high DMSOprofiles concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique at different tape stripping The DMSO after its application, andafter thenits as tape stripping continued, results concentration show a high immediately DMSO concentration immediately application, and then as deep tape into the skin, DMSO concentration gradually reduced. Other solvents that have been studied include stripping continued, deep into the skin, DMSO concentration gradually reduced. Other solvents that propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, glycerol, alcohol, decanol, butyl acetate, etc. [23,24]. OTTER can have been studied include propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, glycerol, alcohol, decanol, butyl work well both inOTTER vivo and vitro skin acetate, etc.on [23,24]. caninwork well samples. on both in vivo and in vitro skin samples. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 9 of 14 9 of 14 OTTER Signals 1.2 1 12 Before After Tape 2 Tape 3 Tape 5 Tape 10 10 DMSO Concentrations [a.u.] Intensity [a.u.] 0.8 0.6 0.4 8 6 0.2 4 0 2 -0.2 DMSO Depth Profiles 14 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 Time [ms] (a) 3 3.5 4 4.5 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Depth [um] (b) Figure 6. The the corresponding corresponding DMSO Figure 6. The OTTER OTTER signals signals of of DMSO DMSO penetrating penetrating through through skin skin (a) (a) and and the DMSO concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique after different tape stripping (b). concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique after different tape stripping (b). 3.4. Nail Measurements 3.4. Nail Measurements Apart from in vivo and in vitro skin samples, OTTER can also work on nails, for both water Apart from in vivo and in vitro skin samples, OTTER can also work on nails, for both water content content measurements and solvent penetration measurements [24,25]. Figure 7 shows the OTTER measurements and solvent penetration measurements [24,25]. Figure 7 shows the OTTER signals of signals of human fingernail (a) and corresponding water concentration depth profiles before and human fingernail (a) and corresponding water concentration depth profiles before and after a 15 min after a 15 min soaking in water (b). In this experiment, a left hand nail was soaked in room soaking in water (b). In this experiment, a left hand nail was soaked in room temperature water temperature water for 15 min, then carefully patted dry. The OTTER measurements were performed for 15 min, then carefully patted dry. The OTTER measurements were performed both before and both before and after soaking. The nail water concentration has increased after the soaking, after soaking. The nail water concentration has increased after the soaking, indicating absorbing of indicating absorbing of water through soaking, and then as nail recovered in ambient condition, the water through soaking, and then as nail recovered in ambient condition, the nail water concentration nail water concentration gradually reduced to the normal level. gradually reduced to the normal level. Figure 8 shows the solvent penetration through nail measurements, data from Reference [24]. Figure 8 shows the solvent penetration through nail measurements, data from Reference [24]. In this experiment, three solvents were studied, glycerol, decanol, and butyl acetate. Solvents were In this experiment, three solvents were studied, glycerol, decanol, and butyl acetate. Solvents were applied to the fingernail of a volunteer using a filter pad (Cat. No. 1001 110, Whatman, Kent, UK) applied to the fingernail of a volunteer using a filter pad (Cat. No. 1001 110, Whatman, Kent, UK) for for a period of 5 min. The pad was then removed, the nail wiped ,and the solvent decay measured a period of 5 min. The pad was then removed, the nail wiped ,and the solvent decay measured on on removal and then at 8 and 10 min after the initial application. Glycerol exhibits the fastest removal and then at 8 and 10 min after the initial application. Glycerol exhibits the fastest diffusion diffusion through nail tissue of the three solvents tested, as after 5 min the concentration profile through nail tissue of the three solvents tested, as after 5 min the concentration profile immediately immediately starts to decrease. starts to decrease. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 10 of 14 Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 10 of 14 Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 OTTER Signals 10 of 14 Nail Hydration Depth Profiles After 15min Soaking 1.2 26 OTTER Signals Nail Hydration Depth Profiles After 15min Soaking 1.2 26 24 1 24 1 22 0.8 22 20 20 0.6 Hydration [%] Hydration [%] IntensityIntensity [a.u.] [a.u.] 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.4 18 18 16 16 14 0.2 14 12 0.2 Before After 2 min 4 min Before 13 min After min 236 min 12 0 10 0 10 -0.2 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 8 4.5 0 1 2 3 4 Time [ms] -0.2 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 (a) 2.5 5 6 7 8 Depth [um] 3 3.5 4 8 4.5 0 Time [ms] 1 2 3 4 5 (b)6 7 8 4 min 9 10 13 min 36 min 9 10 Depth [um] Figure 7. The OTTER signals of in vivo human fingernail (a) and corresponding water concentration (a) of (b) water Figure 7. The OTTER signals in vivo human fingernail (a) and corresponding concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique before and after a 15-min soaking (b). depth profiles using SLS fitting technique before and after a 15-min soaking (b). Figure 7. The OTTER signals of in vivo human fingernail (a) and corresponding water concentration depth profiles using SLS fitting technique before and after a 15-min soaking (b). (a) Figure (a)8.Cont. Figure 8. 8.Cont. Figure Cont. Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 11 of 14 Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 11 of 14 (b) (c) Figure 8. Solvents penetration through in vivo human fingernail, (a) decanol, (b) glyceral, and (c) Figure 8. Solvents penetration through in vivo human fingernail, (a) decanol, (b) glyceral, and (c) butyl butyl acetate. For each solvent, the left plot shows the solvent concentration depth profiles and the acetate. For each solvent, the left plot shows the solvent concentration depth profiles and the right plot right plot shows the corresponding solvent concentration in nail at 5 min, 8 min and 10 min after the shows the corresponding solvent concentration in nail at 5 min, 8 min and 10 min after the time of time of solvent application. Reproduced with permission from [24], published by Elsevier B.V., 2011. solvent application. Reproduced with permission from [24], published by Elsevier B.V., 2011. 3.5. Hair Measurements 3.5. Hair Measurements Our latest study shows that OTTER can also be used for hair measurements, despite of low Our latest study shows that OTTER can also be used for hair measurements, despite of low water water content in the hair. Figure 9 shows the hair water content measurements. In this experiment, content in the hair. Figure 9 shows the hair water content measurements. In this experiment, an ex vivo an ex vivo hair sample, freshly cut from a healthy volunteer, was hydrated by soaking in room hair sample, freshly cut from a healthy volunteer, was hydrated by soaking in room temperature water temperature water for 15 min, then patted dry afterwards. The OTTER measurements were performed both before and periodically after the soaking. As explained earlier, in Figure 4, the curved feature of hair hydration depth profile is likely due to the layered hair structure. It is Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 12 of 14 for 15 min, Cosmetics 2016,then 3, 10 patted dry afterwards. The OTTER measurements were performed both before 12 and of 14 periodically after the soaking. As explained earlier, in Figure 4, the curved feature of hair hydration interesting toispoint soaking, curvedtofeature seems disappear, depth profile likelyout duethat, to theimmediately layered hairafter structure. It is this interesting point out that,toimmediately whichsoaking, might suggest excess water seems absorbed during soaking gonesuggest into different layers absorbed in hair. It after this curved feature to disappear, whichhas might excess water is also soaking interesting to point that layers it takes 40interesting min for hair to recover its normal during has gone into out different in more hair. Itthan is also to point out thattoit takes more hydration level, this to is slower skin and the naillevel, in ourthis previous studies than 40 min for hair recoverthan to itsthe normal hydration is slower than[10,26]. the skinAdditionally, and the nail as our hairprevious gradually loses its excess water to theasambient environment, theexcess curved feature of ambient the hair in studies [10,26]. Additionally, hair gradually loses its water to the hydration depth profile started to re-appear. environment, the curved feature of the hair hydration depth profile started to re-appear. OTTER Signals Hair Hydration Depth Profiles 1.2 22 20 1 18 0.8 0.6 Hydrytion [%] Intensity [a.u.] 16 0.4 14 12 10 0.2 8 Normal After Soaking 5min 10min 15min 20min 30min 40min 0 6 -0.2 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 Time [ms] (a) 3.5 4 4.5 4 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 Depth [um] (b) Figure9.9. OTTER and corresponding corresponding water water concentration concentration depth depth Figure OTTERsignals signals of of ex ex vivo vivo human human hair hair (a), (a), and profiles in in hair hair before before and and after after soaking soaking (b). (b). profiles 3.6. Future Developments 3.6. Future Developments By combining photothermal radiometry and Fourier Transform InfraRed spectroscopy (FTIR) By combining photothermal radiometry and Fourier Transform InfraRed spectroscopy [9,26,27] or diffraction grating [28], it is possible to achieve photothermal spectroscopy. Different (FTIR) [9,26,27] or diffraction grating [28], it is possible to achieve photothermal spectroscopy. Different from traditional FTIR, photothermal spectroscopy is depth-resolved, which means we can get the from traditional FTIR, photothermal spectroscopy is depth-resolved, which means we can get the spectra information from both the skin surface and at different depth underneath the skin surface. spectra information from both the skin surface and at different depth underneath the skin surface. This could be very useful for the study of skin properties, trans-dermal drug delivery, and skin This could be very useful for the study of skin properties, trans-dermal drug delivery, and skin active active ingredients. By using 2D matrix mercury cadmium telluride (MCT) detector, or the X–Y ingredients. By using 2D matrix mercury cadmium telluride (MCT) detector, or the X–Y scanning scanning stage, it is also possible to achieve photothermal microscopy. The combination of stage, it is also possible to achieve photothermal microscopy. The combination of depth-resolved depth-resolved photothermal spectroscopy and photothermal microscopy will create a whole new photothermal spectroscopy and photothermal microscopy will create a whole new measurement measurement technology—Photothermal Hyperspectral Imaging, which is imaging based, technology—Photothermal Hyperspectral Imaging, which is imaging based, non-contact, non-invasive, non-contact, non-invasive, depth-resolved, and spectroscopic. depth-resolved, and spectroscopic. 4. Conclusions 4. Conclusionsand andFuture FutureWorks Works This paper paper presents presents aa review review of of the the photothermal photothermal radiometry radiometry technology technology and and its its latest latest This developments for skin and skin appendages research and reports its latest developments. Our developments for skin and skin appendages research and reports its latest developments. Our studies studies show that photothermal radiometry can be used for a range of skin measurements, including skin pigments, skin water content, solvent penetrations, etc. It can work on skin, nail, and hair, both in vivo and in vitro. Compared with other technologies, photothermal radiometry is non-contact, non-destructive, and spectroscopic in nature. Additionally, it is quick to make a measurement (a few Cosmetics 2016, 3, 10 13 of 14 show that photothermal radiometry can be used for a range of skin measurements, including skin pigments, skin water content, solvent penetrations, etc. It can work on skin, nail, and hair, both in vivo and in vitro. Compared with other technologies, photothermal radiometry is non-contact, non-destructive, and spectroscopic in nature. Additionally, it is quick to make a measurement (a few seconds). It is colour blind, and can work on any arbitrary sample surface. Photothermal radiometry also has a unique depth profiling capability, around the top 20 µm of skin surface. For future works, our studies show that is possible to create depth-resolved Photothermal Hyperspectral Imaging, which is capable of generating skin images at different infrared wavelengths and at different skin depths. This opens more potential opportunities, such as skin disease detection, skin cancer diagnosis, etc. Acknowledgments: We thank London South Bank University for the finance support of this project. We also like to thank the Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC), Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC), Royal Society, and Unilever Port Sunlight Research for the previous support. Conflicts of Interest: The author declares no conflict of interest. References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. Tam, A.C.; Sullivan, B. Remote sensing applications of pulsed photothermal radiometry. Appl. Phys. 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