©Kondinin Group
Reproduction in whole
or part is not permitted
without permission.
FROM THE WORKSHOP
HAMMER CHOICE
FREECALL 1800 677 761
Strike a blow with the
right hammer choice
1
Josh
Giumelli
Photos: Ben White
KONDININ GROUP
It’s ‘hammer-time’ as Kondinin
Group engineer Josh Giumelli
examines a range of hammers and
their different uses in the workshop.
The claw or carpenter’s hammer is often pressed into use for more mechanical tasks, but it’s prime use
remains for hammering and removing nails. With the advent of nail guns, and the vast array of selfdrilling fasteners, nails are used less as a construction fastener. However few would argue their place in
the workshop. Choose a heavier hammer for larger nails, and a steel shaft for heavy-duty work, especially
if pulling large nails with the claw. While you can spend a fortune on a quality claw hammer, $30–$40 will
buy a reasonable quality unit.
While not the most inspiring of workshop
topics, selecting the correct hammer can
make a real difference when carrying out
many workshop jobs. In fact, the wrong
hammer can seriously damage work, or
even cause injury to the user.
In some dangerous environments, a
special hammer that will not spark when
struck against a steel object is an added level
of protection against explosion or fire.
Most workshops will already contain a
selection of hammers suitable for most
jobs, but the key is knowing which one to
use. If buying a set of new hammers, it is
better to buy fewer, quality hammers than
several cheaper ones, as chips from hammer
heads, or heads parting company with the
handles can cause significant injury.
Use the force
A hammer is actually a force amplification
tool — it transfers the kinetic energy stored
up in the hammer as it is swung, into the
work as it is struck. The longer the handle
and larger the head, the greater the force
produced, but greater effort is required.
Looking at this another way, a smaller,
lighter hammer will require a heavier blow
to do the same amount of work as a larger
one. This can lead to a loss of feel and
control, and the lighter hammer will tend to
bounce off the work instead of transferring
force into it.
Getting a handle on it
The hammer handle is just as important
as the head, as it has a large influence on the
14 Farming Ahead April 2011 No. 231 www.farmingahead.com.au
performance of the hammer. While long
handles help the user deliver maximum
force, they are not always practical, as
they require a lot of room to swing, and
reduce accuracy when trying to hit a small
target. As a result, hammer head and
handle combinations are always a
compromise between ease of use and energy
efficiency.
The handle also needs to be large enough
to get a good grip. Without a good grip
striking a nail or pin punch can become a
quite tricky. While handles have been
traditionally made of hickory, these days
there are a range of composite materials
such as fibreglass that have greater shockabsorbing properties. This helps to reduce
user fatigue.
FROM THE WORKSHOP
HAMMER CHOICE
2
Sales / Service /
Spares / Repairs
Next on the list
of importance is
the ball pein or
engineer’s hammer.
For workshop use, the
ball pein is the most useful,
and a large, medium and small
hammer will fulfil most needs.
Sizes range from about 230 grams to
1.4 kilograms, although very small and
large heads are sometimes available. In
the past the round end of the hammer was
used for shaping rivet heads (or peining),
but it is now mainly used for shaping metal.
Small heads are ideal for using with centre
punches or letter stamps, whereas larger sizes are
ideal for larger pin punches, loosening rusted parts
or general whacking duties. A variation is the cross pein
hammer, which has a flat, blunt edge instead of a ball. These are used
for starting small nails or tacks, as the nails are easier to hold between
two fingers. Wooden handles of hickory or ash are suitable for most use.
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Club hammers, otherwise known as block or
lump hammers, are essentially small sledge
hammers, and are used mainly by brick layers or
stonemasons. But there are also plenty of uses for
a club hammer around the farm. Club hammers
are ideal where a heavy blow is needed, but there
isn’t room to swing a long handle. The larger face
also helps in the accuracy stakes. Club hammers
are fantastic when coupled with a large cold chisel,
as their heavy mass reduces any rebound off the
chisel head, and helps transfer the force through
the chisel to the work.
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5
HEAD OFFICE
BELMONT
Ph: (08) 6278 0000
Fax: (08) 6278 0088
172 Abernethy Rd
4
Photo: iStock
www.toolmart.com.au
Sledge hammers are often the hammer of ‘last
resort’, but their uses are limitless. The main thing
to watch when buying one is how well the head
is secured to the handle as it can do considerable
damage if it comes loose. They are ideal for shaping
or straightening bent metal, driving in star pickets,
breaking concrete or removing large stubborn
pins. Common head sizes are 7, 10 or 14 pounds,
although 12 pounds is a handy size if available.
Dead-blow hammers are essential for work where
the object being struck may be damaged, such
as the end of a shaft, castings or threaded items.
The composite plastic units above are typical, but
expensive at $123 and $105. The heads of these
hammers are hollow and often filled with sand
or lead shot to deliver a heavy blow but reducing
rebound at the same time.
Farming Ahead April 2011 No. 231 www.farmingahead.com.au
15
JOONDALUP (08) 9300 0566
KELMSCOTT (08) 9390 9000
KENWICK (08) 9459 6666
MIDVALE (08) 9250 2661
O’CONNOR (08) 9337 2344
OSBORNE PARK (08) 9443 2811
ROCKINGHAM (08) 9592 3233
WELSHPOOL (08) 9358 0333
BUNBURY (08) 9721 5544
©Kondinin Group
Reproduction in whole
or part is not permitted
without permission.
FROM THE WORKSHOP
HAMMER CHOICE
6
Another option is replaceable, soft face hammers,
which have double faces of nylon that are screwed
into the head. Prices generally range from $50 to
more than $150. A 50-millimetre hammer, which
refers to the head diameter, will be the most useful,
although other sizes are available.
FREECALL 1800 677 761
10
The aluminium replaceable face costs $7.50,
while the copper face costs $45.
11
7
A better value option for a range of soft-faced work may be the Fragram set above, which contains a range
of faces and costs about $100.
Replacement faces are usually inexpensive and
available in different strengths.
12
8
Rubber mallets are generally less useful
than soft-faced hammers in the workshop,
as they tend to rebound severely when
struck hard. Probably best left for brick
paving work.
13
This soft-faced hammer is made of rolled hide, and
is a more traditional choice. Soft-face hammers
generally do not last as long as nylon faced
hammers.
9
Copper-faced hammers can deliver a solid blow,
but are more resilient than nylon or hide, and
do not spark like steel heads. However they are
usually very expensive, even for replaceable face
hammers. Note the hammer above with hide and
copper faces.
The range of other hammers is almost limitless
and there are many suited to specific trades such
as panel beating. With a good selection of the
hammers discussed in this article, on hand almost
any workshop-hammering job will be able to be
carried out with ease.
16 Farming Ahead April 2011 No. 231 www.farmingahead.com.au
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Belmont WA.
Toolmart,
CONTACT Josh is an engineer and writer
for Farming Ahead.
[email protected]