Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 www.elsevier.nl/locate/margeo Effects of ambient currents and waves on gravity-driven sediment transport on continental shelves L.D. Wright*, C.T. Friedrichs, S.C. Kim, M.E. Scully Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062, USA Received 4 July 2000; accepted 1 February 2001 Abstract Observations from several shelf environments show that down-slope gravity-driven transport may constitute an important mode of suspended sediment dispersal across shelves and highlight the in¯uence of ambient waves and currents on gravityinduced sediment ¯ux. The phenomena discussed here involve high concentrations of suspended sediment mixed with seawater and thus differ in genesis from hyperpycnal plumes released directly from sediment-laden rivers. The ®eld sites examined are the Gulf of Bohai off the mouth of the Yellow River (Huanghe), the northern California shelf off the mouth of the Eel River, and the Louisiana shelf west of the mouths of the Mississippi River. Off the Yellow River, rapid down-slope transport over distances of a few km occurred when frictional resistance, induced by strong along shelf currents, was temporarily relaxed. More prolonged down-slope motion over longer distances occurred following ¯oods of the Eel River, when wave and current agitation provided turbulence to sustain gravity-driven transport of ¯uid mud. On the Louisiana inner shelf, the down-slope gravity force was much weaker, but observations suggest that thin gravity ¯ows may still have occurred in the presence of waves. A simple analytical theory is developed that incorporates the in¯uence of ambient shelf currents on gravity-driven transport of suspended sediment. This theory is quantitatively consistent with the observations from the three sites. If the supply of easily suspended sediment is less than the capacity of ambient currents (including waves) to carry sediment, then intense turbulence limits gravity-induced sediment transport by increasing the drag at the base of the ¯ow. When ambient currents abruptly cease, rapid down-slope transport can then occur over short distances until the sediment settles. Such ¯ows do not remain intensely turbulent because the slope of the continental shelf is too gentle to induce shear instability within the gravity ¯ow. The maximum sustained rate of gravity-induced sediment transport occurs when ambient currents are strong, but the supply of easily suspended sediment exceeds the resuspension capacity of the ambient currents. Feedback then leads to values of the gradient Richardson number (Ri) within the ¯ow that are near the critical value of 1/4. This partially damps bottom drag, but still allows the generation of suf®cient turbulence to maintain sediment in suspension. Observations also indicate systematic relationships among Ri, the supply of easily suspended sediment and the bottom drag coef®cient acting on the gravity ¯ow. q 2001 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. Keywords: Bed stress; Fluid mud; Bottom boundary layer; Wave boundary layer; Turbidity current; Hyperpycnal ¯ows 1. Introduction * Corresponding author. Tel.: 11-804-684-7103; fax: 11-804684-7009. E-mail address: [email protected] (L.D. Wright). Advection of ®ne sediments by positively buoyant river plumes in coastal and shelf environments is widely appreciated and has been the subject of numerous studies (see reviews by Wright, 1985; Wright and 0025-3227/01/$ - see front matter q 2001 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. PII: S 0025-322 7(01)00140-2 26 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 Nittrouer, 1995). Emphasis has been placed more recently on negatively buoyant plumes that discharge directly from extremely turbid rivers with suspended sediment mass concentrations exceeding that of ocean salinity (Mulder and Syvitski, 1995; Mulder et al., 1998; Imran and Syvitski, 2000). This paper focuses on a third type of buoyancy-driven transport of riverine sediment across continental shelves. In this third scenario, ®ne sediment freshly delivered by positively buoyant river plumes settles and is mixed with seawater by ambient waves and currents before moving down-slope under the in¯uence of gravity. Gravity-driven, down-slope transport of mud suspended in seawater has been documented off the mouths of the Zaire (Eisma and Kalf, 1984), Yellow (Wright et al., 1988, 1990), Amazon (Kineke et al., 1996; Sternberg et al., 1996) and Eel Rivers (Ogsten et al., 2000; Traykovski et al., 2000). Traykovski et al. (2000) recently observed offshore transport of ¯uid mud within the wave boundary layer on the northern California shelf, and suggest that gravity-driven transport of ¯uid mud is the dominant mechanism for delivering ®ne sediment from the Eel River to the middle shelf. Observations of thin ¯uid mud layers have only recently been made possible by new sensor developments, and it is likely that gravity-driven transport of ¯uid mud may be more common than previously believed. Although high-density turbid layers can be expected to move down-slope when forces other than negative buoyancy are negligible, such layers may also be advected along-slope or even up-slope by ambient current stresses and regional pressure gradients (Wright et al., 1997, 1999). Ambient currents may also retard down-slope movement of negatively buoyant turbid layers by enhancing eddy viscosity (Kineke et al., 1996). Conversely, high sediment concentrations can damp shear-generated turbulence and accelerate deposition of plume-borne sediment. Results from the AMASSEDS program off of the mouth of the Amazon River demonstrated that sediment-induced stable strati®cation can induce a feedback cycle which can maintain the Richardson number at its critical value of 1/4 and thereby limit the capacity of the ¯ow to carry additional sediment (Trowbridge and Kineke, 1994). Wright et al. (1999) and Friedrichs et al. (2000) report similar results from observations off the mouth of the Eel River in northern California. In this paper, we synthesize ®eld results from three dissimilar shelf environments where gravity-driven, sediment-laden ¯ows appear, at least episodically, to be important modes of sediment transport and sources of deposition. These environments are directly in¯uenced by the proximity of major river mouths and in all three examples, ®ne, river-borne sediments are actively accumulating on the shelf. The examples reported here also involve superimposition of waves and tidal or wind-driven currents on the gravity forces acting on near-bed turbid layers. The observed in¯uence of ambient shelf currents on these ¯ows motivates our application of a simple analytical theory to gravity-driven suspensions, which accounts for the additional mixing and drag that ambient currents produce. The results of this modeling suggest that the gentle slopes of most continental shelves preclude auto-suspending turbidity currents and that suspension by externally forced currents is required to sustain gravity currents on the mid-shelf. The presence of ambient currents will enhance gravity currents, as long the supply of easily suspended ®ne sediment is not limited. If the sediment supply is limited, turbulence generated by ambient currents will increase bottom drag and lower the potential rate of gravity-induced sediment transport. Rapid but short-lived gravity ¯ows may then occur if ambient currents abruptly cease. 2. Theory The down-slope, depth-integrated momentum equation for a gravity-driven ¯ow for which the balance is between bottom friction and the ¯ow's sediment-induced pressure gradient is given by (e.g. Parker et al., 1986; van Kessel and Kranenburg, 1996) gs sin u Zh 0 c 0 dz tx : r 1 In Eq. (1), u is the across-shelf slope of the seabed, g the acceleration of gravity, h the thickness of the ¯ow, s the submerged weight of the sediment (,1.6 for siliceous material in seawater), c 0 the sediment volume concentration, t x bottom stress, r the depthaveraged density of the gravity ¯ow, and all terms are wave-averaged. The above relation assumes the wave-averaged gravity ¯ow to be approximately L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 27 Fig. 1. Schematic diagram of a steady, uniform, sediment-induced gravity current of thickness h and depth-varying concentration c 0 moving across a continental shelf of slope u . The velocity scale (Umax) most relevant to shear and frictional resistance acting on the turbid layer is due to a combination of wave orbital velocity (Uw), along-shelf current magnitude (vc) and the speed of the gravity current (ug). uniform and steady and neglects drag from the overlying ¯uid (Fig. 1). A widely accepted formulation of wave-averaged stress in a given direction, x, at the base of a bottom boundary layer is the time-averaged quadratic formulation given by (e.g. Grant and Madsen, 1979; Feddersen et al., 2000) D E 2 tx r CD kul u2 1 v2 1=2 : In Eq. (2), CD is a non-dimensional bottom drag coef®cient, u and v are the instantaneous velocities in x and y at the top of the bottom boundary layer, and k l represents a time-average over many wave periods. Combining Eqs. (1) and (2) yields B sin u CD ug Umax ; 3 where ug kul; with x and ug positive down-slope, B gs Zh 0 c 0 dz 4 is the buoyancy anomaly integrated over the thickness of the turbid layer (cf. Trowbridge and Kineke, 1994), and D E 5 Umax u2 1 v2 1=2 : If there are no waves or ambient currents other than the gravity ¯ow itself contributing to Umax, then Eq. (5) reduces to Umax ug, and Eq. (3) becomes the classical Chezy equation B sin u CD u2g 6 (e.g. Komar, 1977; van Kessel and Kranenburg, 1996; Traykovski et al., 2000). Applying Eq. (6), Komar estimated that CD < 0.0035±0.0050 when modeling auto-suspending turbidity currents in the deep sea, while van Kessel and Kranenburg measured CD < 0.003±0.006 in the laboratory for O(10 cm) thick, turbulent gravity ¯ows. However, those formulations assume that gravity-induced ¯ow is the dominant source of near bed velocity and that gravity ¯ow alone controls bottom drag and turbulence within the gravity current. Currents other than gravity ¯ows, such as tides, waves and wind-driven ¯ows, are commonly the dominant source of bottom stress on continental shelves. In applying Eq. (3) to continental shelves, it is appropriate to account for the contribution of the total instantaneous velocity to Umax. It is important to note that waves or an along-shore current can provide the turbulence needed to support a gravity ¯ow composed of suspended sediment (cf. Traykovski et al., 2000) and simultaneously enhance the drag that resists the down-slope movement of the turbid layer (cf. Kineke et al., 1996). If waves are much stronger than either ug or kvl; then Umax < Uw, where Uw is the rms wave orbital velocity (cf. Grant and Madsen, 1979). If waves are insigni®cant, but along-shelf 28 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 currents are much stronger than ug, then Umax < vc, where vc is the magnitude of the along-shelf current, typically due to tides or wind. The simplest approximation for Umax that accounts for all three potential contributions is then Umax ù Uw2 1 u2g 1 v2c 1=2 7 (see Fig. 1). Clearly a more sophisticated formulation for Umax that accounts for the angle between currents and waves would be slightly more accurate. (Note that Umax will still be a scalar, whether or not one accounts explicitly for wave angle.) However, the goal here is to apply the simplest possible model that roughly accounts for the lowest order physical processes. The gradient Richardson number, Ri, is a key scale for determining whether or not the shear within a strati®ed layer will generate instabilities. Ri indicates the importance of the buoyancy restoring force relative to the tendency of shear to increase the size of interfacial waves. For the case of strati®cation induced by suspended sediment, the gradient Richardson number is given by Ri ù gs 2c 0 =2z : 2u=2z2 8 Both theory (e.g. Howard, 1961; Turner, 1973) and observations (e.g. Scotti and Corcos, 1972; Eriksen, 1978) indicate that in strati®ed shear with Ri & 1/4, Kelvin±Helmholtz instabilities enhance turbulence, whereas for Ri * 1/4, internal waves do not generally become unstable. Additional work (e.g. Kundu, 1981; Trowbridge, 1992) indicates that in strati®ed boundary layers, the overall level of turbulence is typically dominated by the presence or absence of shear instability, such that turbulent intensity is effectively scaled by the gradient Richardson number rather than the Reynolds number. Furthermore, the level of turbulence in strati®ed boundary layers often self-adjusts in the presence of shear causing Ri to remain nearly equal to a critical value, Ricr (Kranenburg, 1984; Trowbridge, 1992; Trowbridge and Kineke, 1994). Trowbridge and Kineke (1994) applied the constraint of a constant Ri to ¯uid mud layers near the mouth of the Amazon and showed that the gradient Richardson number throughout these highly turbid boundary layers is scaled by Ri ù gs 2c 0 =2z B=h2 B ù ù 2 : 2u=2z2 Umax =h2 Umax 9 The scaling applied in Eq. (9) will be a reasonable representation of the gradient Richardson number within a gravity-driven turbid ¯ow only if strati®cation extends through most of the layer thickness. This implies that recent mixing has occurred between the gravity ¯ow and the overlying water column. In other words, this scaling may not hold for mud¯ows, which originate from submarine slides and have not mixed appreciably with the overlying water column (e.g. Huang and Garcia, 1999). For the case of strati®ed gravity ¯ows in which Umax ug (i.e. with no signi®cant external source of shear due to ambient currents such as tides or waves),Eqs. (6) and (9) can be combined to yield Ri ù CD : sin u 10 In other words, the gradient Richardson number of a strati®ed, turbid gravity ¯ow (obeying the balance in Eq. (1)) is, at lowest order, a function only of the bottom drag coef®cient and the slope of the bottom (van Kessel and Kranenburg, 1996, present a similar asymptote). Assuming the gradient Richardson number required for maintenance of shear-generated turbulence is less than or equal to Ricr < 1/4 and CD < 0.003, then sea beds with sin u . 0.012 (equivalent to 0.78) may be able to maintain intensely turbulent gravity currents of this type through autosuspension, whereas sea beds with sin u , 0.012 will not. Seaward of the shoreface, continental shelves generally slope at angles less than 0.78. Thus, without the existence of an external source of turbulence, gravity-induced transport of suspended sediment on most shelves should be short-lived and travel limited distances. Following the above logic, the maximum sustainable ¯ux of suspended sediment associated with gravity-driven ¯ow across the continental shelf will occur when there is an external source of turbulence (Umax . ug), but on the condition suf®cient sediment is available to allow Ri < Ricr. Rearranging Eq. (9) yields the maximum sustainable (or `critical') L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 suspended sediment load 2 Bcr ù Ricr Umax : 11 Combining Eqs. (3) and (11) yields ugcr ù sin uRicr Umax CD 12 and the maximum sustainable sediment ¯ux associated with the gravity-driven ¯ow is Qcr ù 3 ucr rs Bcr r sin uRi2cr Umax ù s ; gs gsCD 13 where r s < 2.65 is the density of siliceous sediment. Gravity-driven sediment ¯ux will continue to grow rapidly with Umax as long as the supply of easily suspended sediment is not exhausted. This is because, under conditions of unlimited sediment supply, the down-slope pressure gradient in Eq. (3) associated with greater suspension grows geometrically with Umax, while frictional resistance to the down-slope ¯ow only increases linearly. Assuming easily suspended sediment and Umax . ug, feedback will keep Ri < Ricr (cf. Trowbridge and Kineke, 1994; Friedrichs et al., 2000). If Umax increases, Ri will drop below Ricr, and enhanced turbulence will suspend more sediment, returning Ri to Ricr; if Umax decreases, Ri will increase above Ricr, and damping of turbulence will cause sediment to settle out of the turbid layer, reducing Ri back towards Ricr. Stronger ambient currents will eventually cause gravity-induced sediment ¯ux to decrease under conditions of limited sediment supply. If B increases more slowly than Umax, Eq. (3) indicates that enhanced quadratic drag will cause ug to decrease. Ri will drop according to Eq. (9), causing turbulence within the turbid boundary layer to become more intense. CD is then expected to rise, further decreasing ug and Q. Under conditions of limited sediment supply, rapid (but short-lived) down-slope movement of suspended sediment may then occur when ambient currents abruptly cease. An example would be the relaxation of wave energy or the arrival of tidal slack water. As Umax drops to ug, B may temporarily remain large since high concentrations of ®ne sediment can take several hours to settle. Then Ri will increase to B/ug2 and CD will decrease following Eq. (10). The classical relation given by Eq. (6) would then apply, but with a 29 depressed drag coef®cient. The gentle slope of the continental shelf would prevent intense shear-induced turbulence within the gravity ¯ow, and the bulk of the suspension would presumably settle within a few hours or less, depending on the initial thickness of the layer. The above arguments regarding the drag coef®cient assume that the effective viscosity of the suspension decreases as turbulence is damped. At suf®ciently high concentrations (,300 kg m 23), molecular viscosity under laminar ¯ow can exceed the eddy viscosity of lower concentration gravity ¯ows (van Kessel and Kranenburg, 1996). The theoretical discussion to this point has assumed the lowest order across-shelf momentum balance within the gravity ¯ow to be between bottom friction and the down-slope pressure gradient associated with the turbid layer itself. For this to be the case, the sediment-induced pressure gradient must overwhelm the across-shelf acceleration of the wave-averaged current, the Coriolis response to the along-shelf current, across-shelf frictional drag at the top of the turbid layer, and larger scale across-shelf pressure gradients caused by tides, wind set-up or regional density gradients. If depth-integrated buoyancy is held constant, these other forces are more likely to overwhelm gravity-induced motion as the slope of the shelf decreases or the thickness of the turbid layer increases. 3. Field examples The observations on which this paper is based were obtained over the last 15 years from contrasting ®eld sites. Except in the Gulf of Bohai, ®eld observations were made using instrumented tripod systems. The bottom-boundary-layer instrumentation consisted of tetrapod or tripod frames supporting sonar altimeters, arrays of electromagnetic Marsh McBirney current sensors and optical backscatter (OBS) sensors to obtain measurements of suspended sediment concentration. In addition, the tripod data reported by Traykovski et al. (2000) included transducers that recorded acoustic backscatter (ABS) at 1 cm intervals over the lowest meter of the water column. OBS and ABS sensors were calibrated using either local bed sediment or, if possible, local suspended material captured in sediment traps. 30 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 Fig. 2. Location map of Gulf of Bohai and Yellow River (Huanghe) mouth. 3.1. The Yellow River subaqueous Delta/Gulf of Bohai The Yellow (Huanghe) River mouth in the Gulf of Bohai (Fig. 2) is widely recognized for discharging high suspended sediment concentrations, and this system is presented here as a benchmark example of suspension-induced gravity ¯ow.Wright et al. (1988, 1990) have discussed the behavior of highly turbid benthic layers observed off the mouth of the Yellow River over three ®eld seasons in 1985, 1986 and 1987. This system has been amply described in the literature (e.g. Prior et al., 1986; Wiseman et al., 1986; Wright et al., 1990) so the details are omitted here. From the perspective of this paper, the important characteristics are listed in Table 1 and summarized below. Within the weakly con®ned mouths of the Yellow River, high suspended concentrations are known to occur; these concentrations can reach 200 kg m 23 during river ¯oods. However, our data were obtained from sites upcoast and downcoast from the point sources. Redistribution of moderately concentrated suspended sediment along the coast was affected by strong reversing semidiurnal tidal currents, which attained speeds on the order of 1 m s 21.Wright et al. (1988, 1990) credited these same currents with mixing river and Bohai waters and maintaining sediment in suspension. The currents must also be a major source of eddy viscosity and enhanced bottom drag. As a result of the mixing, the sediment suspension surrounding the delta had a salinity-induced density anomaly of 14±15 kg m 23. Under fair-weather (i.e. tide-dominated) conditions during summer high-river-¯ow conditions, suspended sediment contributed another 5±10 kg m 23 to the suspension's bulk density, thereby L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 31 Table 1 Benthic turbid layer characteristics, Gulf of Bohai summer 1986, depth 5 m, sin u 0.005 ug (cm s 21) vc (cm s 21) Uw (cm s 21) Umax (cm s 21) B (m 2 s 22) H (m) Ri CD C (kg m 23) Q (kg m 21 s 21) Maximum ¯ood tide Slack water after ¯ood Maximum ebb tide 10 70 0 71 0.021 3.0 0.15 0.0052 4.0 1.2 40 15 0 43 0.033 1.5 0.40 0.0021 8.0 4.8 10 75 0 76 0.092 2.0 0.11 0.0040 5.0 1.0 creating the observed negative buoyancy relative to the surrounding low-turbidity water, which had a typical density of 1016±1017 kg m 23. Fig. 3 shows time series of suspended sediment concentration pro®les, isobath-parallel ¯uxes and across-isobath ¯uxes as observed in summer 1986 (Wright et al., 1990). Fig. 3 is particularly instructive with regard to the relationship between along-isobath currents and gravity-induced sediment transport. Speci®cally, down-slope transport was suppressed during times of maximum tidal currents, which ¯owed parallel to isobaths. The thickest and most turbid layers were observed after the maximum ¯ood-tide currents. The maximum gravity-induced down-slope sediment ¯uxes were centered on the slack after ¯ood. No corresponding gravity ¯ows prevailed at the slack after ebb. The higher total eddy viscosity and drag associated with the strong tidal ¯ows would have retarded downslope response to the sediment-induced pressuregradient force even though that force and the stresses induced by tidal currents were mutually orthogonal and not in direct opposition. We can infer that, through resuspension, strong tidal ¯ows near high tide added sediment to highly turbid layers overlying tidal ¯ats, and these turbid layers then pulsed down slope at the ensuing slack water when Umax was at a minimum, consistent with Eq. (3). Currents near low tide would not have impinged directly on the ¯ats, and this is presumably why we did not observe turbid conditions at the slack after low water. Thus, the sediment-induced gravity ¯ows pulsed at diurnal rather than semi-diurnal frequencies. Time-series observations over the 5 m isobath in summer 1986 revealed that down-slope ¯ow velocities, ug, associated with the turbid layers ranged from 5 to 40 cm s 21 and averaged 15 cm s 21. Wright et al. (1986, 1988, 1990) showed that, when operating, the gravity ¯ows exhibited internal waves at frequencies close to the Brunt-Vaisala frequency and concluded that these waves enhanced momentum exchange between the turbid ¯ows and ambient waters and contributed to extinction of the under¯ows. Based on the theory presented here, we also conclude that the slack water gravity ¯ows were constrained to have Ri , 1/4 because of the slope of the shelf. Therefore, the gravity ¯ows would have been unable to sustain themselves through autosuspension brought about by shear-generated turbulence. Wright et al. (1988) showed a downslope acoustic pro®le of a turbid layer measured in summer 1986 with a 200 kHz echo sounder. The layer became progressively thinner seaward, until vanishing altogether, over a cross-slope distance of about 8 km. Table 1 summarizes properties of the highly turbid layers in Fig. 3 evaluated at maximum ¯ood tide, slack after ¯ood, and maximum ebb tide, where ug and vc are the across- and along-shelf components of velocity near the top of the turbid layer, Uw is wave orbital velocity, Umax u2g 1 v2c 1 Uw2 1=2 ; C is observed mass concentration averaged over the layer thickness (h), and Q is across-shelf sediment ¯ux integrated over h. B and Ri are calculated directly from observations using Eqs. (4) and (9), while CD is estimated indirectly based on Eq. (3). The slope (sin u ) of the Bohai shelf in the vicinity of the observed gravity currents was 0.005. From the 32 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 `classical' Chezy approach (i.e. Eq. (6)) with CD < 0.004, one would expect ug < 16 cm s 21 at peak ¯ood tide, ug < 20 cm s 21 at slack, and ug < 30 cm s 21 at peak ebb. For the Gulf of Bohai data set, this over-predicts observed ug during peak tidal currents and under-predicts ug at slack. This is because the classical approach misrepresents sediment-induced gravity ¯ows on shelves in two ways: (1) it does not account for the role of the along-shelf current in increasing bottom drag on the across-shelf ¯ow; and (2) it does not account for the effect of varying Ri on turbulence and CD. Based on the analytical theory presented in the Section 3, we interpret the dynamics of the gravity ¯ows in Fig. 3 as follows. During peak ¯ood and peak ebb, the capacity of the strong along-shelf tidal currents to suspend sediment was greater than the available supply of easily suspended ®ne sediment. Thus Ri within the turbid layer was below 1/4, velocities within the layer were intensely turbulent, and CD was ,0.004±0.005, similar to the value of CD used in modeling highly turbulent gravity currents in the deep sea (Komar, 1977). The strong along-shelf velocity, intense turbulence and relatively high CD value caused a large quadratic drag to be associated with a relatively weak down-slope gravity ¯ow. At slack after ¯ood, the ambient current dropped more quickly than B, causing Ri to climb above 1/4, damp turbulence, and reduce CD by 50%. The decrease in quadratic stress allowed the negatively buoyant layer to move rapidly down slope. The gentle slope of the continental shelf combined with strong strati®cation in the lower layer severely damped turbulence, and the suspension settled as it moved offshore. 3.2. The Eel River Shelf, northern California Fig. 3. Time series of (a) current speed; (b) suspended sediment concentration; and (c) suspended sediment ¯ux as observed off the mouth of the Yellow River (Huanghe) in summer of 1986 (Wright et al., 1990). The Eel River drains a relatively small (9500 km 2) basin in the northern California Coastal Range. It has the largest annual yield of any river of comparable or larger basin-size in the conterminous United States (Brown and Ritter, 1971). Its discharge is episodic on both inter- and intra-annual time scales, with nearly all of the discharge occurring in association with large winter storms and thus coinciding with high waves and strong wind-driven currents. Wheatcroft (2000) describes such ¯ood situations as `oceanic ¯oods'. The continental shelf adjacent to L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 33 Fig. 4. Map of Eel River site showing location of tripod data from deployment 1 (VIMS, Wright et al., 1999), deployment 2 (UW, Ogston et al., 2000), and deployment 3 (WHOI, Traykovski et al., 2000). the Eel River (Fig. 4) is rapidly accumulating ®ne sediment in the presence of strong and frequent agitation by waves (Nittrouer, 1999; Sommer®eld and Nittrouer, 1999). Geological investigations as part of the STRATAFORM program (Wheatcroft et al., 1996, 1997; Drake, 1999; Sommer®eld and Nittrouer, 1999) reveal that following signi®cant ¯oods, ®ne grained sediment accumulates in a distinct ¯ood deposit centered near the 70 m isobath and extending over 30 km along-shelf and 8 km acrossshelf. Recent work suggests that much of the sediment from the plume initially settles near shore before moving offshore to the region of the ¯ood deposit (Traykovski et al., 2000; Ogsten et al., 2000; Geyer et al., 2000). Bottom-boundary layer velocity and suspended sediment concentration pro®les were measured with instrumented tripods in the vicinity of the 60 m isobath on this shelf (where sin u < 0.005) during winter 1995±1996 (Wright et al., 1999), winter 1996±1997 (Ogston et al., 2000), and winter 1997± 1998 (Traykovski et al., 2000). These observation periods are hereafter referred to as deployments 1, 2 and 3. Peak Eel River discharge was 2000 m 3 s 21 during deployment 1, 10,000 m 3 s 21 during deployment 2 and 5000 m 3 s s 21 during deployment 3, qualifying the latter two as `¯ood years'. Maximum rms wave orbital velocities at the 60 m isobath during storms that coincided with the ¯oods during deployments 2 and 3 were on the order of 40 cm s 21 and 75 cm s 21, respectively. During the ®rst deployment, the value at 60 m was about 40 cm s 21. (Near-bed orbital velocity during deployments 2 and 3 is based on a frequency- and depth-dependent transformation 34 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 Table 2 Benthic turbid layer characteristics, Eel River Shelf, 1996, 1997 and 1998, depth 60 m, sin u 0.005 ug (cm s 21) vc (cm s 21) Uw (cm s 21) Umax (cm s 21) B (m 2 s 22) h (m) Ri CD C (kg m 23) Q (kg m 21 s 21) Deployment #1 February 1996 S60 Deployment #2 1 January 1997 S60 Deployment #3 19-20 January 1998 K60 6 12 37 39 0.028 0.07 0.18 0.0057 75 0.29 17 13 29 36 0.033 0.05 0.25 0.0026 110 0.93 20 16 55 61 0.092 0.10 0.25 0.0038 150 3.0 of coincident NOS surface buoy data. Orbital velocities during deployment 1 were reported by Wright et al., 1999.) During all three years, net offshore transport of ®ne sediment was observed at 60 m during storm events, consistent with geological observations. Additional characteristics of these storm events are summarized in Table 2. During the two ¯ood years, Ogston et al. (2000) and Traykovski et al. (2000) concluded that the majority of across-shelf sediment ¯ux occurred in near-bed gravity ¯ows of ¯uid mud (.10 kg m 23). Evidence for near-bed gravity-driven transport in each of the ¯ood years included an increase in the down-slope component of wave-averaged velocity toward the bed (Fig. 5a). During both of these winters, a clear increase in offshore ¯ow between the lowest two current meters coincided with the period of strongest waves within the duration of the ¯ood, suggesting that waves played a key role in both suspending and sustaining the thin gravity ¯ows (Traykovski et al., 2000). In addition to measuring offshore ¯ow, Traykovski et al. (2000) deployed acoustic backscatter sensors that documented the simultaneous presence of a near-bed ¯uid mud layer about 10 cm thick which scaled with the height of the wave boundary layer. Fig. 5a shows the average across shelf current reported by Ogston et al. (2000) and Traykovski et al. (2000) as recorded at their lowest two current meters during periods of presumed gravity ¯ow within the wave boundary layer. Based on a spline-®t, Traykovski et al. (2000) estimated the change in velocity between the top of the wave boundary layer and the current meter at 50 cm to be about the same as that observed between 50 and 110 cm. This yields an average offshore velocity of ug < 20 cm s 21 at the top of the wave boundary layer for the most sustained gravity current during deployment 3 (which occurred between Julian day 19±20-7-1998). Using the results of Traykovski et al. (2000) to scale the hyperpycnal layer thickness proportional to Uw suggests h < 5 cm during the deployment 2 event. A proportional shear applied to the gravity current associated with deployment 2 (which occurred throughout 1 January 1997) then yields an average offshore velocity at the top of the wave boundary layer of about 17 cm s 21. The drag coef®cient during each of these events can then be estimated by setting Umax u2g 1 v2c 1 Uw2 1=2 and assuming that the wave boundary layer is holding its maximum sustainable load (Table 2). With Ricr 1/4, Eq. (12) then gives CD 0.0026 and 0.0038 for the deployment 2 and 3 gravity ¯ows, respectively (utilizing event-averaged values for ug, Uw, vc, etc.). Acoustic backscatter data indicate that the ¯uid mud, which was con®ned to the wave boundary layer during the deployment 3 event, was about 10 cm thick (Traykovski et al., 2000). Above the wave boundary layer, suspended sediment concentration was observed to rapidly decrease with elevation. Fig. 5b displays average concentrations at 30 and 100 cm above the bed for 1 January 1997 from Ogston et al. (2000) and an example ABS pro®le observed on 20 January 1998 by Traykovski et al. (2000). Traykovski et al. could not precisely resolve the L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 35 Fig. 5. Pro®les of (a) across-shelf velocity and (b) suspended sediment concentration at the 60 m isobath on the northern California shelf under high waves during Eel River ¯oods on 1 January 1997 (Ogston et al., 2000) and 20 January 1998 (Traykovski et al., 2000). January 1998 concentrations are near continuous ABS measurements; otherwise o is the data from sensors and x is the extrapolation to top of wave boundary layer. concentration within the wave boundary layer because of attenuation of the acoustic signal. The depth-averaged concentration for the wave boundary layer is predicted by Eq. (11) to have been about 110 and 150 kg m 23 for these two cases, respectively. Thus a consistent story is emerging: sustained gravity ¯ows can occur on continental shelves when the supply of ®ne sediment exceeds the suspension capacity of ambient currents. Under these conditions, feedback among turbulence, resuspension and sediment-induced strati®cation favors a gradient Richardson number of 1/4. This allows the velocity 36 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 within the gravity current to remain near the transition to intense shear-generated turbulence. The resulting drag coef®cient is then intermediate between the weakly and intensely turbulent cases observed off the Yellow River. Proper estimation of the buoyancy anomaly within the wave boundary layer requires inclusion of ambient currents in the drag formulation. Ogston et al. (2000) and Traykovski et al. (2000) used the classical relation of Eq. (6) to infer B within the wave boundary layer, neglecting Umax. The smaller drag based on consideration of ug alone only requires a weaker balancing pressure gradient and results in lower estimates of suspended sediment concentration. With CD < 0.003, ug < 20 cm s 21 and h < 10 cm, the classical approach in Eq. (6) predicts a depthaveraged concentration in the wave boundary layer of 40 kg m 23, which is similar to the results of Ogston et al. (2000) and Traykovski et al. (2000), but signi®cantly less than the concentrations inferred here. As a consequence, the theory applied here predicts higher overall rates of sediment ¯ux and a more rapid accumulation of mid-shelf ¯ood deposits. Re-examination of our data from non-¯ood conditions in deployment 1 suggests that near-bed gravity ¯ows may also have occurred at that time. The tripod used in deployment 1 had a ®ner near-bed resolution of the velocity pro®le than the 60 m tripods in deployment 2 or 3, with current meters and OBSs paired at heights of approximately 10, 40, 70 and 100 cm. Based on those data, Friedrichs et al. (2000) showed that strong waves during deployment 1 caused the wave-averaged gradient Richardson number at elevations between 10 and 40 cm to be close to the critical value of 1/4 and also caused the pro®le of the mean current (which was predominantly along-shelf) to be nearly logarithmic. Friedrichs et al. (2000) hypothesized that waves during deployment 1 resuspended ®ne sediment within the wave boundary layer to concentrations approaching ¯uid mud, and the strong concentration gradient at the top of the wave boundary layer provided the boundary condition needed to maintain Ri < 1/4 at the base of the overlying current boundary layer. Fig. 6 displays wave-averaged pro®les of across-shelf velocity and suspended sediment concentration during deployment 1 for the four bursts with strongest wave orbital velocities, which also exhibited Ri < 1/4 between 10 and 40 cm above the bed. For these bursts, wave-averaged velocity at the top of the wave boundary layer is estimated by logarithmically extrapolating the shear observed between 10 and 40 cm down to 6 cm. (A logarithmic extrapolation was not possible using the deployment 2 and 3 velocity data because the higher elevation, more widely spaced current meters did not resolve a log-layer immediately above the wave boundary layer.) Extrapolations of the high wave cases with Ri < 1/4 in the current boundary layer during deployment 1 suggest that offshore directed ¯ow at the top of the wave boundary layer was consistent with thin near bed gravity ¯ows. However, the average velocity of about 5 cm s 21 is signi®cantly less than that estimated for weaker waves during the ¯ood of deployment 2. A limited supply of easily suspended sediment would explain the weaker offshore velocity during deployment 1. During this non-¯ood year, the muddy sediment on the Eel shelf was presumably more consolidated and bed stresses were too weak to erode a suf®cient amount to overwhelm the suspension capacity of the wave boundary layer. Under these conditions, the wave boundary layer should have remained intensely turbulent and the enhanced viscosity and drag of intensely turbulent ambient currents should have limited the velocity of the gravity current. To maintain consistency with the results from deployments 2 and 3 as well as data from the Gulf of Bohai, we also expect to ®nd Ri , 1/4 and CD $ 0.004. A reasonable estimate of CD during deployment 1 can be derived from the literature by assuming the wave boundary layer to have been only weakly strati®ed. Under these conditions, the wave friction factor ( fw) of Swart (1974) can be applied: CD fw =2 0:5 exp5:213 kb v=Uw 0:194 2 5:977; 14 where v is wave radian frequency and kb is bottom roughness. Based on photographic pro®les of the sediment water interface, Cutter and Diaz (2000) reported a mean rms roughness of 3.2 mm for the muddy Eel Shelf between the 60 and 64 m isobaths in late fall 1995. Because those images were taken before the onset of winter storms, Cutter and Diaz (2000) suggested that roughness would likely diminish as wave action ®lled in the O(3 mm) biogenic pits. In L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 37 Fig. 6. Pro®les of (a) across-shelf velocity and (b) suspended sediment concentration at the 60 m isobath on the northern California shelf under high waves during an Eel River non-¯ood year, February 1996 (Wright et al., 1999). o is the data from sensors and x is the extrapolation to top of wave boundary layer. the absence of these pits, the sand-sized (,0.3 mm), biologically cemented aggregates forming the surface layer at this depth (Cutter and Diaz, 2000) are a logical lower-limit for bottom roughness. With an upper limit of 3.2 mm and a lower limit of 0.3 mm, the average drag coef®cient resulting from Eq. (14) for 14 s waves is 0.0057. B and Ri within the wave boundary layer are then given by Eqs. (3) and (9) to be about 0.028 m 2 s 22 and 0.18. The above value for CD is somewhat higher than that inferred for lower Ri values on the Bohai shelf and re¯ects the expected, albeit weak, inverse relationship between CD and total layer thickness. For unstrati®ed conditions, wave boundary layer thickness is given by dw fw 8 1=2 Uw v 15 38 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 Fig. 7. Location map showing instrument sites on the Louisiana shelf. (e.g. Wiberg and Smith, 1983). Parameters for strong wave events during deployment 1 then predict dw 3 cm which seems surprisingly thin given the acoustic backscatter observations of Traykovski et al. (2000). Further inspection reveals that Eqs. (14) and (15) are inconsistent with the gravity ¯ows which Traykovski et al. simultaneously characterized using relatively small CD and relatively large d w. Traykovski et al. used Eqs. (14) and (15) with kb < 6 cm to characterize d w < 10 cm as observed during deployment 3. However, doing so requires CD < 0.02, which is much too large to allow rapid gravity ¯ows. If one applies an appropriate value for CD, wave action must be capable of suspending ¯uid mud signi®cantly higher than the thickness of the wave boundary layer as predicted by Eq. (15). Scaling d w , Uw consistent with d w < 10 cm for Uw < 55 cm s 21 yields d w < 7 cm during deployment 1 at which time the depth-averaged concentration in the wave boundary layer wave would have been about 75 kg m 23. 3.3. The Louisiana inner shelf Fine sediments discharged from the Mississippi and Atchafalaya River mouths are rapidly accumulating on the inner continental shelf off coastal Louisiana (Wright and Nittrouer, 1995). The slope of the inner shelf here is very gentle, with sin u < 0.0005 an order of magnitude smaller than that off the Yellow or Eel Rivers. Wave energy off Louisiana is low most of the time and currents associated with the 40 cm diurnal tides are weak. Mud accumulation is thus favored by the combination of nearby major ¯uvial sediment sources and low benthic energy; near-bottom currents are usually too weak to resuspend sediments (Wright and Nittrouer, 1995; Wright et al., 1997). Wright et al. (1997) measured bottom boundary layer processes in spring and summer 1993 at the site shown in Fig. 7. During the spring 1993 deployment, a two-phase event of high turbidity was observed (Wright et al., 1997; Friedrichs et al., 2000). The ®rst `thin layer' phase was characterized by moderate waves and suspended sediment concentration pro®les that decreased rapidly with elevation from ,1 kg m 23 at z 23 cm to ,0.1 kg m 23 at z 113 cm (Fig. 8). The second phase was marked by a decrease in wave orbital velocity and a pronounced increase in suspended sediment concentration, which exceeded 1 kg m 23 at each of the OBS sensors (Fig. 9). The rms orbital velocity of 13 cm s 21 documented L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 39 Fig. 8. Pro®les of (a) across-shelf velocity and (b) suspended sediment concentration at the 20 m isobath on the Louisiana shelf during the moderate wave, thin turbid layer event, summer 1993 (Wright et al., 1997; Friedrichs et al., 2000). o is the data from sensors and x is the extrapolation to top of wave boundary layer. In (b), the upper two OBS sensors returned minimal response during these bursts, and concentrations were set to an assumed background of 0.020 kg m 23. during the thin layer phase was the highest observed during any of the deployments on the Louisiana shelf. The rapid decrease in concentration with elevation at this time was qualitatively similar to that above the wave boundary layer during storms on the Eel River shelf. This suggests the possibility that ¯uid mud was also present in the wave boundary layer of the Louisiana shelf. Fig. 8a displays across-shelf velocity 40 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 Fig. 9. Pro®les of (a) across-shelf velocity and (b) suspended sediment concentration at the 20 m isobath on the Louisiana shelf during the low wave, thick turbid layer event, summer 1993 (Wright et al., 1997; Friedrichs et al., 2000). o is the data from sensors and x is the extrapolation to top of wave boundary layer. In (b), the OBS sensor at 30 cm may have been poorly calibrated for high concentrations. pro®les from the ®rst four bursts within the thin layer event de®ned by Friedrichs et al. (2000), which included the strongest waves during the entire deployment. The across-shelf current in Fig. 8a is extrapolated down to the top of the wave boundary layer as in Fig. 6a. (Friedrichs et al. (2000) found the overall speed of the predominantly along-shelf current to be generally logarithmic during this event.) This extrapolation is highly speculative given the accuracy of EMCMs and the questionable logarithmic assumption. Nevertheless, this extrapolation yields an average down-slope velocity at the top of the wave boundary layer of ,0.5 cm s 21. Friedrichs et al. (2000) found Ri in the current boundary layer to be L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 above critical during this event, suggesting that settling occurred in the current boundary layer and thus an abundant supply of easily suspended sediment was probably available in the wave boundary layer. If one assumes that the wave boundary layer was carrying suspended sediment at maximum capacity and that Ri < 1/4, then with Umax < 12 cm s 21, Eq. (6) gives B < 0.0036. Assuming d w to be proportional to Uw, it is inferred that h < 2 cm and the depthaveraged concentration within the wave boundary layer was ,30 kg m 23. With sin u < 0.0005 and ug < 0.6 cm s 21, Eq. (4) gives CD < 0.0031; this falls between the two critical Ri cases from the Eel River shelf. During the `thick' phase of the turbidity event, which occurred after the wave height decreased, the high concentration layer extended vertically beyond the uppermost OBS located at 113 cm (Fig. 9b). A linear extrapolation of the concentration decrease between the two uppermost OBS (corresponding to the thick-layer period examined by Friedrichs et al., 2000) for the four bursts with the highest concentration suggests a lower limit of h < 3 m. This extrapolation allows the buoyancy anomaly of B<0.022 m 2 s 22 to be estimated from the observed concentration pro®le. The average acrossshelf velocity over this period was directed up-slope at all depths (Fig. 9a) and was much less logarithmic than during the thin phase (Friedrichs et al., 2000). Considering the poor log-®t and absence of a wave boundary layer, extrapolation of velocity to the bed is not warranted. By means of ®nite difference estimates within the thick layer, Friedrichs et al. found Ri < 8. With Umax 7 cm s 21 and B 0.022 m 2 s 22, Eq. (9) gives Ri < 4.7. In either case, the high concentrations during the thick layer phase cannot be explained in terms of local resuspension (Wright et al., 1997; Friedrichs et al., 2000). The inference is that sediment initially delivered via a surface plume in the upper water column was subsequently concentrated by persistent regional upwelling as it settled. This high turbidity layer caused 5 cm of deposition over the 1 month observation period of spring 1993 (Wright et al., 1997). As discussed earlier, rapid deposition from highly turbid layers is expected in the absence of ambient currents because there is no source of shear-induced turbulence to keep the sediment in suspension. The thick turbid layer presumably did not move down-slope as it settled because the same regional 41 pressure gradients that drove upwelling overcame the down-slope gravity force on the layer. Since B increased between the thin and thick phases, it initially seems counterintuitive that the down-slope gravity force no longer overcame regional upwelling. To compare the strength of regional pressure gradients to the down-slope gravity force, however, the regional pressure gradient must also be depthintegrated. The down-slope gravity force acting on the turbid layer increased six-fold in the thick phase; but because of the increase in h, the upwelling force acting on the layer became 150 times greater. It is also useful to compare the strength of the down-slope gravity force during the thick stage to that observed on the Bohai shelf. Because of lower sediment concentrations and a much lower bottom slope, the down-slope gravity force acting on the Louisiana thick turbid layer was 20 times smaller than the gravity force acting on the Bohai suspensions. 4. Discussion and conclusions In this paper, we have offered ®eld illustrations and simple analytical theory to address the diverse outcomes that can result on continental shelves when turbid, negatively buoyant layers move over sloping seabeds. Sometimes, as in the archetypal example of the Yellow River-mouth system, the simple expectation of down-slope sediment ¯ux is realized for several hours at a time. However, less obvious modi®cations of current-driven or wavedriven transport processes may be more common. In the cases we have examined, tidal and wind-driven currents, together with waves, often made dominant contributions to the total eddy viscosity and bottom drag. Therefore, the frictional resistance acting on the gravity current was often greater, and hence, downslope velocity was lower, than would be implied by the classical Chezy equation. At the same time, however, the increased bed stress caused by imposed ¯ows increased sediment suspension and therefore the negative buoyancy anomaly. Thus, waves and ambient currents simultaneously enhance negative buoyancy and retard down-slope ¯ow. It is important to recognize the limitations of the relatively small data sets examined in this paper. Among the ®eld deployments considered here, only 42 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 eight distinct sediment-induced gravity ¯ow `events' were documented. The gravity ¯ows directly observed on the Bohai shelf each lasted only a few hours, and the events on the California and Louisiana shelves are each documented by less direct measurement via remote benthic tripods over periods of a single day. Thus the results presented here do not conclusively demonstrate the dominant role or precise nature of sediment-induced gravity ¯ows on continental shelves that accumulate ®ne sediment. Rather, this paper illustrates that recent observations of across-shelf ®ne sediment transport are, in many circumstances, consistent with the potential existence of high concentration, often very thin, near-bed gravity currents. As advances in instrumentation continue to improve our ability to observe ®ne sediment transport very near the seabed, we anticipate that thin, highly turbid gravitydriven ¯ows will be shown to play an important role in across-shelf sediment ¯ux in a wide variety of shelf environments worldwide. Some important points to summarize are: 1. Gravity-driven sediment transport across shelves does not require direct release of a hyperpycnal plume from a sediment-laden river. Sedimentladen gravity currents also come about, perhaps more often, from subsequent mixing with ambient seawater on the continental shelf. Resuspension involving mixing with ambient seawater was the source of all the observed gravity ¯ows considered in this paper. 2. None of the gravity ¯ows considered here were auto-suspending, nor are sediment-induced gravity ¯ows on shelves in general. The slope, u , of most shelves is too gentle for shear-induced turbulence to be generated within gravity currents without additional velocity shear being provided by ambient waves and currents. 3. To model sediment-induced gravity currents on shelves properly, the effect of ambient waves and currents must be included in the quadratic formulation of bottom stress. Application of the classical Chezy equation to gravity currents observed here without consideration of ambient currents and waves yielded consistently erroneous results. 4. If the supply of easily suspended sediment is less than the maximum capacity of ambient waves and 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. currents, intense turbulence generated by these waves and currents limits gravity-induced sediment transport by increasing both the near-bed velocity and the drag coef®cient and therefore the quadratic bed stress. This scenario applies to the Bohai shelf during peak tidal ¯ow and to the Eel Shelf in non-¯ood years. When ambient currents abruptly cease, bottom drag lessens as both quadratic velocity and the drag coef®cient are reduced, and rapid downslope ¯ow can occur as the sediment settles. This occurs on the Bohai shelf at slack after ¯ood tide. The gradient Richardson number (Ri) within a highly turbid layer can be approximated by its buoyancy anomaly (B) divided by its total velocity (Umax) squared, where Umax includes ambient waves and currents. Based on observations, an inverse relationship then exists between Ri and the bottom drag coef®cient, CD (Fig. 10). The maximum sustained rate of gravity-induced sediment transport occurs when ambient currents are strong, but the supply of easily suspended sediment still exceeds the capacity of the ¯ow. This scenario was seen during ¯ood-year wave events on the Eel Shelf and possibly also on the Louisiana shelf during wave events. Feedback then favors Ri within the turbid layer to be near its critical value of Ricr 1/4. This subdues bottom drag somewhat (CD < 0.003), but simultaneously provides suf®cient turbulence to maintain sediment in suspension. The maximum sustained gravity ¯ow velocity Table 3 Benthic turbid layer characteristics, Louisiana Inner Shelf, Spring 1993, depth 20 m, sin u 0.0005 ug (cm s 21) vc (cm s 21) Uw (cm s 21) Umax (cm s 21) B (m 2 s 22) h (m) Ri CD C (kg m 23) Q (kg m 21 s 21) Thin Layer Thick Layer 0.5 5 11 12 0.0036 0.02 0.25 0.0031 30 0.0028 24 5 2 7 0.022 3.0 4.7 ± 1.2 20.15 L.D. Wright et al. / Marine Geology 175 (2001) 25±45 43 Fig. 10. Bottom drag coef®cients from Tables 1±3 plotted as a function of the gradient Richardson number within the gravity ¯ow. then equals RicrUmax(sin u )/CD. The maximum sustainable buoyancy anomaly is B Ricr(Umax) 2. The maximum gravity-induced sediment ¯ux is easily calculated from the product of the above relations. 10. Finally, for constant B, the likelihood of strong gravity-induced transport on shelves decreases as the slope of the bed decreases or the thickness of the turbid layer increases. This is because the down-slope gravity force decreases with decreased bed slope, while the contribution of regional pressure gradients increases with increased layer thickness. This scenario explains the behavior of the thick turbid layer on the gently sloping Louisiana shelf. from Bohai and the Eel River shelf were made possible by the vision and sustained support provided by Joseph Kravitz through the Of®ce of Naval Research. Field measurements on the Louisiana shelf were supported by the Mineral Management Service in connection with the LATEX-B study via a subcontract from Louisiana State University. This work builds directly on the previous work by, and insightful discussions with, P. Traykovski, W.R. Geyer, and A.S. Ogston. We thank John Wells, J.P. 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