Coasts glossary

Abrasion (corrasion)
The waves carry sediments, especially peddles which is thrown at the cliffs and wears
them down.
Attrition
Rocks are broken down into smaller particles by being knocked into each other by the
waves and are rounded in the process.
Arches
Where the sea breaks through the back wall of two caves which developed back to
back in a headland.
Barriers /dams/ barrages
Are built across river estuaries to control the flow of water.
Bars
Form where a spit has stretched right across a bay or inlet often leaving a lagoon
behind it. It can also refer to an offshore deposition.
Beach cusps
Small curved hollows found on the beach
Beach replenishment
Artificially adding more beach materials to keep a beach in place
Berms
Ridges of materials on a beach caused by the action of the tide at its highest point
Blow holes
Formed where a crack at the back of a cave is opened up to the surface by wave action
Caves
These are developed on the coast where there is a joint or crack in the rock which is
eroded by the action of the waves to form a large opening in the cliff.
Constructive waves
These are waves which build beaches
Cost benefit analysis
Adding all the costs of a project and balancing it with all the benefits in money terms
Destructive waves
Waves which erode beaches and coasts
Eustatic
Global rise or fall in sea level
Fetch
The distance over which the wind has blown to produce waves.
Freeze thaw
Joints in the rock collect water which freezes and expands widening the joint. It then
thaws, collects more water and freezes again expanding it and weakening it until the
rock cracks
Gabions
Wire cages filled with rocks to protect against erosion
Groynes
Fences or low walls to prevent longshore drift
Hard engineering
Man made structures used to control coastal processes
Headlands and Bays
Where hard and soft rock alternate along a coastline, the softer rock will be eroded to
form bays whilst the harder rock remains resistant to erosion and protrudes as a
headland
Hydraulic action
This is where the force of the water in waves loosens material.
Isostatic
Refers to a local change in sea level.
Land use and activity management
Using planning regulations to limit building at the coast and tourism management.
Longshore drift
The process by which material is moved along a beach.
Managed retreat
Allowing some areas of the coastline to be breached by the sea in order to protect
other areas.
Neap tides
The lowest tidal range in any lunar month.
Raised beaches
Produced where the land has risen above current sea level leaving an old beach
stranded higher up on the cliffs.
Revetment
A sloping concrete wall or wood structure to break up waves.
Rias
A drowned upland (lowland?) river valley.
Ridges and runnels
Alternate features found on beaches which run parallel to the shore line and are
caused by strong backwash.
Rip-rap (rock armour)
The building of various shaped boulders which often lock together to break up the
waves and protect the coast.
Rotational slumping
Where a section of coast slumps into the sea in a concave action.
Sand dunes
Where sand has been blown by the prevailing wind into large mounds along the coast.
Salt marshes
Wet, low lying areas near the sea which have been colonised by salt loving plants.
Soft engineering
Uses natural materials and processes to help to protect coastline.
Solution (corrosion)
Where minerals in the rocks dissolve in water.
Spits
These are long narrow stretches of sand or shingle which stick out into the sea and are
formed by longshore drift.
Spring tides
The highest tidal range in a lunar month
Stacks
A small offshore island created when an arch roof collapses.
Storm beach
This is a high ridge at the back of the beach, built up by strong swash during spring
tides and storms.
Storm surges
A rise in sea level associated with very low pressure systems and high winds.
Swash and backwash
With each wave the up beach movement is called swash and the down beach
movement is backwash.
Tidal range
The difference in height between high and low tides.
Wave cut platform
The rocky shoreline which is the base of the old cliffs, which have now been eroded
further inland by wave action.